Aprilia RSV1000R Factory - DIY measure and change Valve Clearance

[@theowerle1638]

Nov 2024 here… I just got a 2007 mint condition at 13K miles, no idea if the previous owner had done the valve check. Your video is a live saver. Thank you so much.

[@Rio1000rr]

Thank you so much for the content.. watching in 2023

[@NicovanderSteen]

thanks for watching !

[@reedewing9754]

Many thanks! I don't think I would have attempted this service had this video nat been available.

[@robertborchert932]

Thank you for sharing your fine work! These engines are very well made, I am amazed at how long the valves remain in specification. Nice trick on accessing that difficult front bolt!

[@NicovanderSteen]

Thanx Robert ! and indeed the head is very hard, and the valves stay long in specs

[@ethandavis8412]

Awesome video!!! I just got done adjusting my 2000 mille's valves! Video was excellent!!! The few details it was missing were fairly simple to figure out. Zip tying the chain to the gears is a huge time saver!!! Thanks again! Best help for RSV valve check/adjust.

[@NicovanderSteen]

Thanks Ethan! love to see and hear it helps us RSV-motorists!

[@goneballistic]

awesome, thank you for posting this. I have to do my Aprilia Caponord with the same engine and this will help a bunch

[@NicovanderSteen]

YW. You'll fix it, I am sure

[@TsuranUkyUzumaki83]

Great video! Very prizeless for who want to operate on the bike by himself. Grazie mille!

[@sebastiandurand]

Hello, very good and instructive, I ask you, where can I get the workshop manual for the Aprilia RSV 1000 V2? Thank you in advance for your response, greetings.

[@stefan2meter]

Ideaal dit, makkelijker dan het wphb op en neer lezen!

[@NicovanderSteen]

Thanks, Stefan !

[@stefan2meter]

@@NicovanderSteen achterste kop was wel even knoeien ivm de balansas, begreep eerst niet goed waarom de brug niet loskwam… twee bouten achter de nokkenastandwielen. Tierips maar weer los, en met een stift tandwiel en ketting markeren. Zooi weer (handvast) in elkaar en shims bestellen. Ook nog even de aanhaalmenten van alle bouten opzoeken.

[@NicovanderSteen]

@@stefan2meter goed bezig. filmpje volgen, en je komt er helemaal uit !

[@stefan2meter]

@@NicovanderSteen was even vogelen, maar is gelukt. 5 plaatjes besteld, komen vd week binnen, kan de boel opnieuw uit elkaar.

[@mulletto27]

Awesome video bro, you helped me immeasurably with my track bike valve clearance checks 👍🏻

[@NicovanderSteen]

You're welcome ! Love to hear that feedback. Cheers

[@moozepatt7525]

very useful video! thank you

[@NicovanderSteen]

Hi, temp of the engine is on cool days 72C and on normal days between 85 and 90C on hot days it reaches 97, but with goor working fans and thermostat it will not reach 100C, it will cool back to 90C

[@relaxteb9513]

Mooie video, ik vond het erg lastig on de ruimte voor het verwijderen van de fan te creëren. En ook altijd spannend of die kleppendeksel bouten niet door draaien. Ik heb wel de hele throttle body verwijderd. Ooit ook eens opgemeten bij een Falco maar het blijft een lastige klus.

[@jenacbxx]

Thank you so much. This Will Be my next winters sport :p

[@NicovanderSteen]

the vid will help you...

[@jenacbxx]

@@NicovanderSteen helped so much since now. Having the idea of what you are going ti experience Is Always great

[@craigm2351]

Hi. Thanks for this. Very comprehensive and well explained.

[@NicovanderSteen]

you're very welcome !

[@royfedko9018]

The video and instructions are really clear for the front cylinder, but at the moment I cannot work out how to re-time the balancer with its drive gear. I have no problem lining up IN & EX marks on the chain sprockets but I can't see any marks on the balancer gear which bolts to the exhaust chain sprocket or on the balancer drive gear. Help please.

[@RogerAlcon]

I have a caponord etv 1000 basically it is the same v990 engine. Thanks for the tutorial.

[@NicovanderSteen]

👍🏻

[@mlinden3917]

Goede video Nico! Wel ingewikkeld nog om zelf te doen lijkt me.

[@NicovanderSteen]

Thx, Maar is niet heel ingewikkeld. Echter voor onervaren monteur (en dat was ik toen ook), kost het veel tijd. Maar als je die hebt, en je kan secuur werken. dan is het goed te doen. Viedo heb ik gemaakt toen ik voor de eerste keer de klepspeling deed controlleren en aanpassen....

[@Snakeskinncowboy]

great video thank you for posting. I understand that the IN and EX should be pointed at each other and that the cam lobes should be pointed away from each other on both cylinders, but on the rear cylinder is there any markings to help realign the balancer shaft? you didn't mention how to time it in this video. thanks again.

[@NicovanderSteen]

Hi Dalton, You can only put 1 cylinder in TDC at a time. what i didn't do is to get both cylinders off timing. I measure each cylinder apartly, and only work on the cylinder with all cam lobes looking outward. than fix it back, and than start working on the next cylinder. If you don't work on both the same time, but as i described, than you won't have a problem. For the rear cylinder there is a marking on the non-balancing shaft. The balancing shaft is the one that works on the Exhaust valves, the non-balancing shaft is working on in intake valves. So if you put the IN marking in horizontal position on the non balancing shaft, and all four cam lobes are pointing outwards, than the balancing shaft will have its EX marking horizontal..... (but you can't see that....it's behind the balancing sprocket). Just for your proof. the sprockets are identically. that's why they have IN and EX markings on them. The have also both a number on them... 732. Look again at the video around 4:08 you can see that the number on the balanced shaft is at about 12 o' clock position at about 4:12 at that point the IN mark on the non balanced shaft is where you want it. If you look close to sprocket of the non balanced shaft, and imagine you would turn it until the mark 732 at 12 o'clock position, than, you will see that the EX mark is in horizontal pointing to the right.... I hope this is the proof you wan't to see ?

[@NicovanderSteen]

TDC = Top Dead Center (like where the compression is at max. Cylinder is in top position, and valves are closed.

[@TedTravis]

The front cam chain tensioner can be accessed after the radiator hoses are removed-for the rear tensioner just unfasten the spark plug junction box. This way the cams and sprockets can be lifted out together since the front exhaust sprocket is obstructed by the frame and impossible to fit a torque wrench. Paint a horizontal line across the sprockets and chain before removing and use for reference when re-assembling- also use the Aprilia TDC locking bolt to lock the crank

[@williamvandril5242]

TDC locking bolt, where do you place this bolt and do you have a part number of it?

[@raydavison2972]

Great video and very useful. It's a shame thought, that you didn't show the other cylinder as that one is more comp0licated with the balancer

[@nigelmitchell351]

Thanks Nico. I have just got a 2008 factory rsv. Running temperature seems high to me at 95c. What temp is normal on yours? Cheers Mitch

[@gianluca6164]

Hi! Nice video,what is the tightening torque of the camshaft head and camshaft crown bolts? Thx!!

[@mrconta]

what torque is the valve cover bolts?

[@mikelabruna9976]

Best Video! So Off the garage and start teardown!

[@clobcente2469]

Could you tell me where are situated the marks TCI? I'm make me crazy. Thank you very much.

[@NicovanderSteen]

At TDC on the intake cam, the IN mark should point horizontal to the exhaust Cam and. You can't see the marks on the exhaust cam becuse of the balance sprocket. 2nd point to notice: At TDC the cams on the camshafts should face 180 degrees outwards. Hope this helps.

[@kerplowski]

Hi there. Great video. At 27:44 you seem to have a problem fitting the cam gears back on. I have the same issue - I can't get my cam gears back onto the camshafts because there is too much tension in the chain. How did you get around this?

[@NicovanderSteen]

Dominik, yes i did have that problem, but after arranging them correctly; it did fit. The chain tensioner is based on oil pressure. So if the engine doen't run, the tension is stuck to what is was when the engine stopped. There is soo little room, that if you don't allign the cams 100%, it won't fit. Worst case, you need to take the tensioner out, but I had problems reaching the tensioner, thats why i took tha cam gears of.... it took me a while, but it did fit...

[@klada2061]

Hello, could you please help me? I want to ask. How does the bike behave when the valves are incorrectly adjusted?

[@NicovanderSteen]

Hi Klada. I never had a bike that wasn't that bad or incorrect adjusted. But if the inlet valves are not correctly adjusted, you could have some sort comustine into your airbox or into the injectors. They would suffer damage. If outlet valves are not entirely closed, you would get poor performance from the engine. The combustion would enter the exhaust too early. So it would damage your engine, en result also in poor performance.

[@ondrejlamac1329]

Hi, great tutorial. Still need to know what torques to use? Thx for help.

[@NicovanderSteen]

Which torque specs do you need

[@ondrejlamac1329]

@@NicovanderSteen All I need. Valve cover, cam gears atd.

[@NicovanderSteen]

@@ondrejlamac1329 Hi, give me some time, but i got that coverd for you. (i will post them today. Ok?)

[@NicovanderSteen]

DESIGNATION , QUANTITY, SCREW / NUT, TORQUE (Nm), NOTES Camshaft mount / front head 6 M6x30 11 ñ Front head (water hose) 1 M18x1.5 manually Loctite 275 Front head cap 1 M18x1.5 manually Loctite 243 Rear head water hose 2 M18x1.5 manually Loctite 275 Camshaft mount / rear head 4 M6x30 11 ñ Camshaft mount / rear head 2 M6x45 11 ñ Camshaft mount / rear head 2 M6x55 11 ñ Exhaust stud bolt 8 M6x16/20 10 Loctite 275 Rear head 1 ñ manually Loctite 275 Head / crankcase (stud bolt) 8 M10x171 6 Loctite 648 Cylinder / head (unpainted cylinder version) 8 M8x45 27 ñ Head / stud bolt (unpainted head version) 8 M10x4 58 ñ Head / chain housing 2 M6x100 12 ñ Rear head / bushing flange 2 M6x35 11 ñ Rear head / bushing flange 2 M6x20 11 ñ Front head / driven gear (timing chain) - intake camshaft 6 M6x45 11 Loctite 243 Front head / upper chain guides 2 M6x16 11 ñ Rear head / driven gear (timing chain) - intake camshaft 6 M6x11.5 11 Loctite 243 Rear head / counterweight + driven gear (upper countershaft assembly) - upper countershaft 1 M14x1 50 Loctite 243 Rear head / upper chain guides 2 M6x35 11 ñ Valve cover 10 M6x23 9 ñ Intake flange 4 M8x25 19 ñ Cylinder / chain tensioner 2 M16x1.5 30 ñ W ater temperature sensor 1 0 20 ñ Mount bracket fitting 2+ 2 M10x40 M10 40 Loctite 243

[@ondrejlamac1329]

@@NicovanderSteen Super thank you very much. You are good.

[@EV6-Gear]

Hi Nico. Can you tell me is that oil on cylinder head at start or your great video. I have oil coming from top of front cylinder and not sure where oil is coming from. Great vids. Thank you keep it up.

[@NicovanderSteen]

Hi, yes there is oil. It is motor oil. It is pushed by the oil pump via little holes to all moving parts of the engine. You should see a little bit of oil, if not.... you’d have a problem.

[@brianhaygood183]

Excellent! Thanks!

[@g90.61]

Super clear video. Thank you for that. When you unlock the nuts and bolts from the balance shaft and then later on from the gears on the camshaft, do you leave the engine in (5th?) gear? Or is it in neutral? Also, did you leave the spark plugs mounted for some counter pressure, or were they removed?

[@NicovanderSteen]

Hi Gunter, i left it in 5th gear. But i didn't rotate the engine. And the Tie wraps are there to lock positions.... Spark plugs were still mounted

[@g90.61]

@@NicovanderSteen Bedankt voor je verduidelijking Nico ;-) !

[@salixsalix1717]

Hi Nico, excellent tutorial. I'm in the process of doing mine RSV valve check. May I ask what's the torque value of the 5 bolts that secure the valve cover?

[@NicovanderSteen]

hi, don't know them by head..... need to look into documentation for that....

[@williamvandril5242]

Hoi Nico, wat een goede uitleg, erg handig. Ik heb zelf een aprilia falco sinds een maand en deze is nu de 15.000 km gepasseerd. Kreeg daarom een melding van service te zien. Boekje geeft aan dat klepspeling gecontroleerd moet worden. Heb daarom enkele vragen, controleer je ook de speling opnieuw na het plaatsen van de nieuwe shims, is het mogelijk de maintenance manual te delen met de vereiste klepspeling en aanhaalmomenten en heb je ook tips voor een goede (web)winkel waar je onderdelen voor deze rotax blokken kan halen? Bijvoorbeeld voor shims en pakkingen van de head covers. Bedankt alvast👍

[@lakkchina]

Do we should change the valve springs as well? Do you have a video for that?

[@NicovanderSteen]

hi, sorry for the late reply. No, we don't need to change the springs...

[@radektwardziak5022]

Czy ktoś wie jakim momentem dokręcamy rozrząd?

[@davidleroth8644]

Is this the rotax 998? I have an rst1000 futura and i'm not positive this is the same engine, but the RSV and RST shared an engine for the 01-07 years

[@NicovanderSteen]

David, it is the dame engine. The RSV is more agressive, but my visa Will help to service your Futura aswell!

[@davidleroth8644]

@@NicovanderSteen Thanks so much for the fast reply! Absolutely LOVE this engine and i've been scared i may not be able to keep my futura because of the lack of maintenance resources. After some intense digging i've found quite a bit of solid stuff tho, including tuning software etc. Very pleased!

[@NicovanderSteen]

@@davidleroth8644 it is a fantastic engine. Very durable!

[@davidleroth8644]

@@NicovanderSteen I wish i had the technical ability to build my own trellis frame. I would love to build a custom bike around this engine some day

[@NicovanderSteen]

@@davidleroth8644 yeah would-be awsome

[@jakubix1]

Vraagje, ben nu bezig met zelfde controle op mijn RSV1000r en kwam een erg losse kettinggeleider tegen. Het is de aller voorste geleider in de 1e cilinder. Ik kan hem zonder problemen eruit halen, ookal zit die er in, is de ketting beitje los (mogelijk deels door gebrek aan oliedruk). Alle andere geleiders zitten stevig vast. Is dit iets waar ik me zorgen om moet maken?

[@NicovanderSteen]

zover ik weet zijn de ketting geleiders/kettingspanners inderdaad oliedrukspanners. als er oliedruk is dan komen ze op max spanning. ik moet wel zeggen dat ik ze bij mij zelden echt los heb gezien. Misschien op voorhand vervangen nu je het toch open hebt liggen ?

[@clipofthedayyup4907]

Nico, also think it is a great video. I have watched it a few times and getting ready to inspect my cams at 18,000kms. I found this valuable. how to get it done in the real world

[@NicovanderSteen]

Thanks Wes. I'll bet you could do the trick ;-) probably the valves are within specs at 18000kms. (The head is very hard) , but always good to check to be sure !

[@nigelmitchell351]

Nico van der Steen. Hi Nico, Many thanks for posting all of these great videos. Please can you help me? I also have an 07 Rsv factory, can you show me the location of the ambient air temp thermistor on your bike, item 37 on wiring diagram. I just cannot see this on my bike. WSM shows it at the rear of the bike? Cheers Mitch.

[@royfedko9018]

Its OK I'm sorted thanks tiimg mark on driven gear is behind the balance weight!

[@NicovanderSteen]

Hi Roy, i'm sorry for the late reaction. But that's it. Difficult to see, but you spotted the marks

[@idkofone]

Hey awesome video! I finally started on mine. I’m working on the rear cylinder and the sprockets block two bolts that look like they attach to the cam bracket. I removed the sprockets from the cams and still can’t access them. How did you handle the rear cylinder with this issue?

[@NicovanderSteen]

i don't understand what you're saying. The cam gears are attached to the camshafts with 3 bolts like the front cylinder. The rear cylinder is the sort of same as the front one, but then 180 degrees turned. The cam bracket can't interferer with the sprockets. cam bracket should be easily accessible.

[@idkofone]

I was getting tripped up by the countershaft you mentioned in the video. I didn't realize you had to remove the nut on it. It had a lot of locktite, but I eventually got it. Thanks a lot for the video. My local dealer was going to charge $1100 usd for the job haha.

[@NicovanderSteen]

Aaron Dreher you’re welcome!

[@riesjauithetbroek1693]

Hey Nico, Zeer mooie toturial. Ik ben er zelf ook maar eens aan begonnen. Ik loop alleen tegen het volgende aan: bij het in tdc zetten krijg ik elke keer bijna de 2 markeringen in en ex tegenover elkaar op een cm na. Als ik dan nog een klein tikje draai met het achterwiel verspringen ze weer omdat er dan weer een slag gemaakt wordt. Ook de bougies zijn eruitdus dit zou volgens mij noet mogen gebeuren, is er iets wat ik over het hoofd zie? Alvast bedankt Groeten Riesja

[@NicovanderSteen]

Riesja Uit het Broek kan je nog een versnelling hoger? Of 2 hoger? Dan draait het wat langzamer

[@riesjauithetbroek1693]

Nico, ik had hem al in ze 6e versnelling. Ik heb begrepen dat tdc niet perse nodig was maar toch is het vreemd en vraag ik me af hoe dit kan. Ik heb de motor inmiddels weggebracht... scheelde een hoop geld aangezien het voorwerk al was gedaan. Toch bedankt voor je snelle respons!

[@Frank_Hwhite]

I imagine the tuono 10000 should be the same or similar right?

[@NicovanderSteen]

rocco rostagno , Yes it is. The engine is the same if from the same year. If it is from a different year, then the principle is the same. Clearamce could meet other specs.... are mentioned in maintenance manual if you want to be sure. But the video is your guide! If you like the video, please subscribe...

[@doylefrankenstein3749]

What size shims are you using?

[@NicovanderSteen]

Doyle, There is no standard shim. It dependance in the gap you need to create.or close.

[@jamesbergmeyer5501]

will u be doing the flywheel stator video? i just got a 04 rsv r and burning up stators. what gives?

[@NicovanderSteen]

Hi James, have that one done once, and the modified was a good one. But if your one keeps burning the strator, maybe the mod of these guys will help: t12tech.com/products/aprilia-rsvr.html Cheers

[@jamesbergmeyer5501]

Nico van der Steen awesome. thank you for the link

[@NicovanderSteen]

YW

[@rochev8]

but after how many km's you have to adjust your valve some people say 15000 and others say 30000

[@NicovanderSteen]

You have to check them every 20000km on an RSV. But mine ar still in spec after 53000 km. next check is at 60000... but probably still in spec...

[@rochev8]

aah.oke bedankt

[@rochev8]

ik zit te twijfelen om een mille uit 99 te kopen prijs is goed en km stand best laag nog evt tips??

[@NicovanderSteen]

You need to check the valves every 20000km.Mine are still in spec after 50000.Next check for me is at 60000. And they would probably be still in spec.

[@NicovanderSteen]

eem 99... da's er een met ronde achterlichten toch ?check de achtervering. Kijk of the dog-bone nog beweegt, anders laten vervangen of zelf doen (zie mijn video's).Normaliter verder niet zo veel issues. Blokken zijn super.Sommige hebben lekkende benzene pomp of aansluitingen... dus daar naar vragen of die is aangepast.

[@callofgeorge]

awesome and informative video. thanks.

[@NicovanderSteen]

You're welcome. Thanx for your comment !

[@callofgeorge]

@@NicovanderSteen you don't happen to have the torque specs by chance do you? cam gears and u-bolts mainly. i believe a have a sticky valve(s). i'll need to pull the cam and bucket to spray some penetrating oil onto the valve and hopefully that makes it operate smooth and i don't have to pull the heads.

[@NicovanderSteen]

@@callofgeorge these are M6 bols i believe ? those are 11Nm

[@NicovanderSteen]

@@callofgeorge i believe these are M6 bolts : 11Nm torque

[@callofgeorge]

@@NicovanderSteen so i feel pretty dumb.. pulled the valve covers today to soak some sea foam deep creep on the buckets to seep down to the valves.. decided to rotate the engine with the big allen (crank bolt i assume) that's on the left side behind the cover.. pretty sure the sound i thought was a valve snapping shut is just the chain popping because it doesn't have tension due to no oil pressure.. guess while I'm here i'll check valve clearances.. thanks for the info though.

[@Schnumetaldead]

well done! I click on subscribe!

[@clipofthedayyup4907]

the shims that are at spec will soon be out of spec. since your making changes I feel you should change all so all will be at the largest clearance possible in spec.

[@NicovanderSteen]

Yes, if you change the shims, change them to te max clearance. That way it will last the langest. If you read the manual, the minimal clearance should be 0,1 for intake and 0,12 for exhaust. An Aprilia dealer that also races with this type of bike did not change them before he had 60000km on the bike. the clearance was 0,05. Nowadays he makes shims to get his clearance to 0,06mm. But what;s in the name... make the clearance at factory minimal specs and you're good to go !

[@nurainansari8388]

The first two numbers of the head should be added to the head that the number one

[@nurainansari8388]

RSV1000RSir, send the video of how the timings of this engine are added.

[@NicovanderSteen]

Nurain, could you be more specific on your question ?

[@NicovanderSteen]

Nurain, is the timing of you machine of ? If it's not, than this current video is all you need, because i am not changing the timing, and check and change valve clearance cylinder per cylinder.

[@RideFaster]

I have a 03 RSV Tuono and have 44k miles on it and the valves are still spec....Rotax baby...

[@NicovanderSteen]

Rotax Rules !!!!! probably still ok after 70k !

[@lakkchina]

Someone that do the same job in the Futura model?

[@NicovanderSteen]

i didn't, but i guess the Futura has a same engine..... ?

[@wradford1]

My 07.5 Tuono is at 93,000 km's Haven't checked them yet. Maybe I should.

[@NicovanderSteen]

wradford1 yep, wont hurt checking....