Ardnahoe Inaugural 5yo v. Kilchoman 100% Islay 12th Edition; Or, Old And New New Islay Malt Whiskies

For the next couple of months I'm going to focus on non-domestic (i.e. imported) spirits, in order to help out all y'all in a buying mood now that US trade policy is about to be hit with a giant mallet Gallagher-style. And we're starting with some Islay single malts, because why not.
Ardnahoe, bankrolled by independent bottler Hunter Laing, is Jim McEwan's last gift to the Scotch world: a 900,000L per year distillery in the far northeast of Islay making heavily peated malt whisky with relatively large stills (= more fruit), very long lyne arms (= more grunge), and worm tub condensers (= even more grunge). They've just put out their first release ever, and it's not cheap but it's also not silly-expensive, and even if you think peated whisky went out of fashion about the same time that Game of Thrones did this is still a bit special. After all, we haven't had a first release from a new Islay distillery for a good 15 years.
Speaking of which, that previous newest distillery is the sparring partner here. And it's not Kilchoman's standard, 50ppm, Port Ellen-sourced stuff; no, today we're pouring their 100% Islay, featuring barley they grew, malted, and peated to 20ppm themselves. So, while Ardnahoe may have worm tubs and long lyne arms, this Kilchoman has all in-house production and even longer fermentation and an extra three years in barrel to boot. Which in principle suggests this is anyone's flight...
Kilchoman 100% Islay 12th Edition 8 Year Old Single Farm Single Malt Scotch Whiskey (distilled 2011-2013 from 20ppm pelican barley; bottled 2012, 29 bourbon barrels and 6 oloroso butts for 12,500 bottles; unchillfiltered, natural color; 50% ABV), 87☺️/100
Ardnahoe Inaugural Release 5 Year Old Islay Single Malt Scotch Whisky (distilled 2019 and bottled 2024, ex-bourbon and ex-oloroso; natural color, unchillfiltered; 50% ABV), 89/100
Buckle up, friends. The folks going into Ardnahoe used to the kinds of woodied-up dessert peat that the established distilleries have been serving up recently are in for a shock: this 5 year old is a beast, just hella edgy and herbaceous and oily and medicinal. Yes, there's fruit there, but the fruit is only contributing to the beatdown. A lot of people are going to find this too raw and brutal, but if this is the future of Islay I'm all here for it.
But even if the 100% Islay is getting blown out on the numbers here, I don't think you should overlook it. This is one of the more original Islay malts I've had in awhile, as much about seaweed and flowers as it is about maritime peat. It's as much Hakushu as it is Caol Ila or Lagavulin. There's a restrained grace to this bottle and I don't think it should be overlooked, even if it's by no means essential. So far so good, let's see if Portintruan is ready by the time the tariffs lift (hopefully) in 2029...
Extra special thanks to my Different Spirits on Patreon ( / differentspirits ) -
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[@Beezee-ph9wv]

Fun, informative, idiosyncratic review as per usual. I have a bottle of latest 100% Islay in transit as we speak. I won't lament not ordering the Ardnahoe instead, though, both for the Kilchoman's smiley face but also for its sentimental value. This year's release is made from the barley that was growing on the island when my wife and I visited a decade ago. Back then, the 100% Islay was pretty easily my favorite whisky we tried at Kilchoman and the bottle we carried away with us. Much for the reasons you describe: if not better, it stood out as more singular. (That bottle--probably the 4th edition--my wife crushed when I wasn't looking, so that'll tell you how she felt too. Her Platonic spirit is probably Clear Creek slivovitz.) Excited to see how that line has developed in the years since-and to try the new kids eventually. When the (theoretical, probable) tariffs (theoretically) lift again, Ardnahoe might be releasing a 10-year-old. There's one thing to look forward to, I guess.

[@differentspirits4157]

I guess I'll eventually make it to Islay one of these days! And I could absolutely see the 100% Islay appealing to plum brandy fans - there's a similar kind of green streak in there that makes it sort of refreshing, if not mouthwatering.

[@gilthefin85]

I would not worry about tariffs on fine spirits only because, congress critters love good drink. Someone is bound to slip an exception. Tariffs are more likely to be used as a negotiating tool in bilateral trade. If we start something like a toilet paper fervor over imported spirits, stores will raise their prices.

[@differentspirits4157]

I'd desperately prefer for you to be right, but A. our President Elect has promised some kind of tariffs _across the board_ (20% is the number I keep seeing but there were others, and who really knows) and B. the last time he decided to pop off some tariffs he just pointed to the '62 Trade Expansion Act, which allows Presidents to bypass Congress completely, and there's no reason to assume he won't do the same again even with booze (critters loving good drinks or not). Using the threat of tariffs as a tactical tool might make more sense, but I invite you to speculate on the incoming administration's grasp of tactics. As for me, my responsibility on this channel is to provide useful, actionable consumer advice to my viewers and supporters as best I can, which is what I'm trying to do. I mean, I see the worst case as this: if everyone goes on a fervor well outside of the scope of this channel's viewership and empties the shelf of Ardnahoe, the outcome is the importer... bringing in more Ardnahoe. Ideally before the end of January. And that's honestly not too bad

[@gilthefin85]

Nixonian Mad Man tactics are the hallmark of Trump.@@differentspirits4157

[@gilthefin85]

I for one am not worried about tariffs on wine or spirits due to Trump's affinity towards the restaurant industry. I would buy a new imported car before the inauguration. On another note will you be reviewing any Armagnacs or Cognacs in the next weeks? @@differentspirits4157

[@differentspirits4157]

France is most definitely on the agenda, yes. ☺️

[@willhk4809]

@gilthefin85 That's exactly one reason to think fine spirits will be hit hard in the coming trade war. The EU's 50% tariffs on bourbon that provoked the 25% tariff on scotch were levied *because* Mitch McConnell's constituency is Kentucky distillers.

[@timothymuehlfeld6975]

The Machir Bay is still a decent value

[@differentspirits4157]

@@timothymuehlfeld6975 One of those bottlings that looks better and better as all the competition slowly cranks up prices...

[@rellorellin7544]

Why do I have a feeling that I already know who you voted for with remarks like that. Keep out of politics and stick with spirits. I enjoy your channel as is.

[@differentspirits4157]

Unfortunately political policy is absolutely relevant to spirits and to the realm of consumer advice. I really wish it wasn't. 🤷

[@garrettjanssen7683]

One of the galvanizing moments of America’s founding is a drunken night of vandalism-The Boston Tea Party. When haven’t alcohol and politics gone together?