Are Solar Panels Actually Worth It For Homeowners?

[@EverydayHomeRepairs]

Calculate Solar Cost For Your Home - www.solarreviews.com/solar-estimator?aff=66965&cam=713 Get Solar For Your Home (DIY or Pro) - projectsolar.sjv.io/EKmxNn DISCLAIMER: This video and description contain affiliate links, which means that if you click on one of the product links, I’ll receive a small commission.

[@charlessynowiec736]

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[@davefroman4700]

DIY off grid in Saskatchewan. For what they wanted to charge me for a 10kw system with storage here? I was able to build a 26kw system on my own with much better bi-facial split cell panels. And I am the only person I know up here that can fill their batteries on cloudy days, even during the winter solstice. The secret to having solar in the winter is not a gob smack of storage. It is being able to put the energy back into the batteries every day, under the worst possible conditions. We only use 8-12kwh of power over night. But the system is designed to ensure that energy is in those batteries ASAP. Because the excess energy I produce all year long? I am converting into high grade heat, and storing in a sand battery I buried next to my house. And that sand battery heats my home up here in Saskatchewan all winter long. Right now that unpressurized tank is 581C. The heat in the house has already been on for a month. By the end of February when the days start being long enough for me to start moving the needle the other way? It will be around 190C. This is my second season with the system. The tank is 40 degree hotter this year. It cost me less to install everything for my system? Than the utility companies wanted to charge me to bring power and gas the 3/4 of a mile into this formerly abandoned farm yard. And its definitely worth every penny of it? Because its replacing what would be a $3000+ a year bill for heating oil if I just did enough solar to get by with a generator. We did that the first year. Then I doubled the solar system. I built the tank that first winter and buried the thing as soon as the ground thawed. It is very well insulated, as is the pit it was buried in protected from moisture and ground frost. Retired power engineer btw. Spent decades working with commercial steam and refrigeration systems. This planet? Receives more energy from the sun in 65 minutes? Than our entire species consumes from all other sources of energy combined? Each Year. It is a stupidly small fraction of a percentage point of that available energy? That we need to capture and store to meet our daily needs in comparison.

[@greggarrett8619]

Awesome, do you have any build videos/ or log anywhere that you can share?

[@garyp272727]

Amazing , would love to see your videos of solar system

[@manxman51]

Interesting video. I am in Massachusetts and installed a 7.5kW system 10 years ago. $31K, 30% federal rebate, $4K from the state, 1-1 net metering SRECs paid quarterly in arrears for 10 years. My monthly electric bill 10 years ago was $100/month! My system was paid off in 4 years. I haven't had an electric bill in that time. Electricity is 31c+/kW hrs here with another 30c /kW hr delivery line maintenance etc. The system has been very reliable, a few issues, but nothing terrible. I love it! Like your content, keep it coming 😊

[@msk3905]

So after 30% and $4,000 rebates the $31k system cost you $17,700. $100/month bill means electric bill is $1,200 per year or 14.75 simple payback. How was this system paid off in 4 years?

[@manxman51]

@msk3905 $2500/year in SRECs. The system generates ~8MW / year initially $275-$285/MW. That's how it works.

[@msk3905]

@ 8MW…good god thats huge, is this a residential or commercial system? Is this on your roof either do you farm on land?

[@manxman51]

21 x LG275W panels on my garage roof and 6 x on the shed dormer. At that time, in Massachusetts you were limited to

[@msk3905]

@@manxman51 so ok so MA has on average 200 annual sun days figure you are generating 8 hours each those put you at 12MW annually. Typical home uses 12MW (yes many factors) so what you were selling most back to grid

[@BradleyBenjamin]

I found a real nice solar seller by me, got lucky. I took advantage of all the credits and my out of pocket was $7k. I'm halfway back to getting my money back while having no electric bill. My insurance company covers them. Had a hail storm, no damage. My insurance company paid to remove them and reinstall them to fix the roof and no my rates didn't go up. Everyone is different but for me and my area it's awesome.

[@CoryTaylor904]

I diy installed a 6kw system with 30kwh battery bank and o monster solark all in one. $24k all cash. Totally worth it.

[@EverydayHomeRepairs]

Nice setup 👍👍. I hear a lot of good things about Sol-Ark.

[@rik8809]

Are solar panels worth it? It depends. For starters: Is your roof a good candidate for solar, ie good southern exposure? How long will you be staying in your home? Is your roof going to be replaced anytime soon? How reliable is the power in your area? Do you have extra cash for installation of the system? Everyone needs to evaluate their own circumstances.

[@johnzach2057]

@@rik8809 unfortunately none of this matters if you can't get a 1:1 net metering contract. It's really hard for solar to make sense if the utility wants to rip you off

[@joeldcoxks]

Roof installs are a terrible idea. Unless you’ve got a brand new steel (or other 50+ year roof), it’s a nonstarter

[@berthaduniverse]

So Cal Edison here: 32-41 cents per kwh. Before (our rather large) solar installation, we were seeing $150-250/mo in winter and spring and $4-500/mo summer and fall. It was not uncommon to see bills at or just over $1000/mo in Aug/Sep/Oct. Since install (~8yrs) we have not had to pay for any electric at all.

[@mr.salisbury2435]

I had solar panels installed on my roof about 10 years with interest free financing and a healthy tax credit. Very happy with it -it significantly reduced my electric bill and no issues. Our biggest electric bills are in summer when AC units are running full blast. It also adds to value of houses in our area.

[@aaron74]

Very thoughtful analysis. Thanks Scott

[@zorro5651]

tier 1 (first 500kwh) : 21c kwh using DWP in LA/CA (plus 10% LA tax) and tier 2: 27c kwh This is today, it was under 15c in 2017 for tier 1. Only a government charges more for larger volume.

[@rooster7996]

Very interesting, thanks for sharing your information and calculations. A couple of extra costs might be: (1) Maintenance costs and (2) extra cost to remove and reinstall solar panels if replacing roof shingles.

[@keco185]

Generally you only install solar on a new roof. If you have an older roof you’ll want to replace the roof first. That being said, the panels can actually help protect the shingles from the elements which can extend the lifespan of your roof.

[@junkerzn7312]

Maintenance is basically zero. Think about it.. What maintenance is needed? You don't want to install solar on an old roof, but that doesn't mean the roof has to be brand-spanking-new either. I've had solar on my garage roof for over 20 years and the only maintenance I had to do was replace the grid-tie inverter in the garage at the 15-year mark... which I DIY'd in an hour or two. I washed the panels down a few times but ... that gave me back less than 5% so I stopped bothering after a few years. The rain washes them well enough. Not that it takes much effort, you don't have to power-wash solar panels after all. Of course, once you have a system then it can become a hobby, so I've done a lot more than just sit around. But that doesn't count as "maintenance". For roof replacement... well, I just had my roof replaced this year. My brother and I removed the solar panels and old drill-to-rafter rail mounts in about an hour. And we put it back on the new roof, along with new no-drill S-5 mounts (mounts to the standing seam of my new metal roof)... that took maybe 6 hours of work over 2 days. I also upgraded the cabling in the process. The original grid-tie inverter had only one MPPT. The one I replaced it with at the 15 year mark has three. So I cabled three strings to the new roof which vastly improves generation. -Matt

[@rooster7996]

@@junkerzn7312 Thanks Matt, I appreciate your input. I personally try to do as much DIY as I can, but roof related projects are off limits. So, for myself and other roof scaredy cats, I was just trying to point out possible extra costs that weren’t addressed in the video.

[@rooster7996]

@@keco185Thanks for the info. My roof is 20 years old, so now might be a good time to think about new roof and solar.

[@junkerzn7312]

@@rooster7996 Its definitely true that some roofs are more DIYable than others. I like to do my own roof maintenance (solar or not), so when buying my house 24 years ago I was specifically looking for a walkable roof. Mine is 15 degrees off of flat... very DIYable. Generally speaking, there is virtually no maintenance required on a solar system. Pretty much zip, in particular with DC string systems (with only solid-state disconnects for code, so no optimizers and no microinverters). There are always acts of mother nature but it isn't as frequent and some people might have you believe. A storm able to damage roof-mounted panels will also damage the roof just as badly, if not worse. Panels actually protect the roof to some degree and massively improve insulative value in summer just from shading the roof under them with an air gap. -Matt

[@chrisanderson4799]

Couple things 1st- Some insurance companies (mine) will not insure homes with solar panels 2nd- HOA’s will most likely not allow them 3rd- A bunch of homes in my area had their panels damaged in storms and insurance refused the claim

[@raulfernandez6826]

1 - Florida maybe? Not so in most states. In Ohio it’s against the law to even raise your rates for solar 2 - again, varies by state. In fairly Red Ohio, HOAs are not allowed to restrict solar on aesthetic reasons alone 3 - as someone else said, those same homes have much bigger problems than their $10k panels if those storms were bad enough to damage the roof

[@chrisanderson4799]

@ I’m in Indiana

[@alzuu1]

I've seen most HOAs are allowing them. In Indiana, HOAs are now allowed to prevent homeowners from going solar as long as they meet certain criteria. You could easily change insurance companies as well.

[@min2oly]

If u DIY, it's definitely worth it, otherwise just like any other industry, TOO MANY people out there looking to rip you off!!! Also depends on what city you live in whether or not U even allow them to know about your solar let alone bring them in on it... People make install way too complicated. Solar panel to dc breaker => batteries => current limiting grid tie inverter => dedicated mains breaker. very simple 🙂

[@donhgr]

My insurance company said that my Home Owners insurance will also go up if I have solar because of having to insure for hail and pay to have to have it taken off and put back on if my roof needs replacing. For me solar was not a win situation

[@anthonyb8405]

Here on Long Island (Suffolk County) our peak kWh = $0.24 and off peak = $0.11 EXCELLENT video BTW! 👍

[@ter450]

Regarding the Enphase solar system. With the newer "8" series (2 years?) microinverters, you can create a grid down microgrid, which will provide 2kw power, when the sun is shining. Not much, but helps when the grid is down. Having lived in FL with hurricane power outages, i would use it to charge battery generators. Eventually, the goal is to expand to battery backup, budget permitting.

[@TheSpatulaCity]

One thing to consider that Scott didn't cover is homeowner's insurance. Some insurance companies won't cover solar systems over a certain Kwh. They see it as a roof liability/fire hazard. Check with your insurance provider if they will cover the property with the solar system you are considering.

[@EverydayHomeRepairs]

Good point, I was lucky with my home / insurance company where they didn't adjust my premium to include covering the panels but that isn't true for everyone.

[@waynebeck7801]

Good point..insurance companies may consider the battery a fire risk.

[@mriguy3202]

I agree that a PPA or lease is not sensible. If you sell the house for any reason you need to settle with your solar partner along terms that they dictate and do not disclose in advance. For systems that they are responsible for maintaining, the quality of the equipment is sometimes not that good. In the contract that we were presented with, there were no service guarantees and no relief on the lease payment if the equipment was not working or partly not working. I live in San Diego, where the electric costs are quite high and the sun shines a lot. The net metering is really not a very good deal for the homeowner, but there are local and state rebates/tax credits for battery storage. So your mileage will vary, and the situation for costs, rebates, and equipment efficiency is constantly changing. Viewers should find a reputable solar contractor and if it doesn't make sense to do the project today, ask that contractor to call you when the environment changes.

[@EverydayHomeRepairs]

Thanks for the feedback. From others I have spoke to in your area sounds like most new systems have some form of battery storage now after the NEM 3.0 standards were rolled out.

[@pascalouellette8516]

$0.14 here in Texas ... and I think that's still pretty good. Those energy credits are awesome! Wish they had those here. Nice honest review showing it taking 14 years is close to realistic, without the state credits in Texas we are about double the pay back time frame...imagine how bad the numbers are without using other citizens tax money in the form of credits...

[@arthendrickson4860]

I have a lease in CT. With a lease (solar system owned by others (e.g., Sunrun)), your property value (property tax) is independent of the solar-system as is home owner's insurance. Any issues with the solar system are the solar system owner's responsibility. One advantage that I have with my lease term is I was able to fully pay the lease up front with a substantially reduced cost versus paying for the lease over the term (e.g., twenty years).

[@sreppok]

1:36 Your panel wires are run through a gap in the microinverter bracket. This is a huge no-no, and will end up grounding out the system as the winds move your wires around.

[@RayLoveless]

$0.15 here in Utah... and I think that's still pretty good. Those energy credits are awesome! Wish they had those here.

[@gregpochet4812]

I estimate my 10.3kw system will be paid off in 9-10 years. I pay about $0.15/kwh . Paid $19k(after 30% fed tax credit). Might be sooner when/if my adult/college kids move out and I am not charging 2 EVs and running 3 gaming PCs 20 hrs a day. However, I did not go solar just to save $$$ on my electric bill or buy into the salesman's pitch that electricity cost are going through the roof in 5 years. The other main reason is to go green and complement charging my EVs.

[@imadork123]

Happy for you on your solar, and that is my main reason I'm interested too. I just wanted to share my data from my gaming PC, since I have it hooked up to a power meter. It uses about 60kwh per month. Running intensive games of course uses more, and I don't run it 20 hours a day, but I use it as my work PC in the day and gaming at night. So, being conservative, those PCs are costing no more than $40/month for all 3.

[@gregpochet4812]

@@imadork123 $40/month = $480/year = $4,800 over 10 years. That eats into your ROI time. It doesn't bother me, it just that my ROI will be sooner when my kids move out. Obviously more people = more energy consumed.

[@mikus4242]

Typically with net metering, you can send your extra power to the grid for credits. When you pull the credits back at night or cloudy days, you have the pay the grid delivery charges. In Texas this is about 5 cents a kWh. (Basically, the delivery charge is the portion of the electric cost to maintain the grid.)

[@cirenosral4260]

You should mention in illinois with net metering the “bank” zeroes out either April or October depending on which you have chosen.

[@JeepinMaxx]

Thanks for the info! I didn't realize there was a DC to AC conversion right at the panels. In case you are curious, electricity is currently .089/kwh in CT right now via Eversource (it has been as high as .15)

[@billmonroe8826]

In my area we get hail about every year. So when it comes to reshingling your home, you will have quite a bit more labor as well. So right now according to your figures it just doesn't make sense and everyone I visit with they say it's been a wash.

[@EverydayHomeRepairs]

I think if/when they can actually integrate the panels with the shingles/roof covering that will be the real break through and help the financials make more sense in a wider number of areas. Some places the energy costs are such that you can justify the upfront investment.

[@peacefieldfarm_mn]

Great video, Scott! We pay about 12 cents/kWh for peak use electricity. and about 7 cents for off peak. We installed a 10K solar energy system when we built our house 10 years ago. We went with a ground mount system. Sometime in 2025 we will have paid for our system which cost about $25K. Totally worth it! One of our goals in building our net zero home was to use no fossil fuels for running of our home. We are 100% electric for everything. Here in MN we enjoy the same net metering situation you do, so we are storing our excess electricity in the grid for future use. 3 years ago we bought an EV too, and now drive from sunshine!

[@stevebible1394]

I am in the SW and I bought my solar array about 7 years ago for $20k after the federal tax credit. My average electric bill for my 3300 sq ft home was around $300. My average now is less than $40. After the 6th year the system has paid for itself. The way I see it is everything after that is profit.

[@user-hm5zb1qn6g]

So American taxpayers subsidized you. Take away that subsidy and how many years would it have taken to break even?

[@junkerzn7312]

@@user-hm5zb1qn6g Yes, American taxpayers who actually have real incomes and pay their taxes, including probably the person getting the panels installed in the first place. For the greater good and for future generations. Take away all the subsidies the oil and gas industry get and see what happens. Take away all the money the federal government hands to poorer states (well in excess of the federal taxes they pay), and see what happens. This isn't a zero-sum game. -Matt

[@raulfernandez6826]

@@user-hm5zb1qn6gwrong. It came out of his own tax liability. You’re welcome!

[@DYI]

What your really need to calculate is the return on investment and not how many months to pay back. Our electricity in at my town in CA is now 40 cents kwh which is a crazy 8x higher. We also are closer to the equator and it doesn't rain much so we get much more solar. I am sure you get zero production when you have a blanket of snow on your panels! Our ROI is about 20% per year which is one of the best and safest investments you could make. Also, no risk of hail or tornado damage!

[@dianeladico1769]

Thank you, excellent breakdown. Minor math nitpick-averaging the single high and low may not reflect the actual savings. Including all the months for a year may be more representative.

[@EverydayHomeRepairs]

Sorry I should have been more clear that the average did come from including all months. The min and max were more just for reference. Thanks for the feedback!

[@dianeladico1769]

@@EverydayHomeRepairs Thanks for the reply. That makes sense. I should have known, you're always so thorough.

[@bruno-zl9qn]

Always impressed of the size of a single family house in the USA...

[@unperrier5998]

Thx, you didnt adress wear n tear... when ur break even, how much life's left in the solar system?

[@JasonPrice1]

Depending on panel quality and environmental conditions in your area, the loss is 1-2% in output per year. Most long term averages come out to 20% loss after 20 years. This aspect definitely needs to be considered.

[@junkerzn7312]

For panels installed 20 years ago, sure. My original SHARP 165W panels (20 years old) had lost roughly 15-20% or so over the 20 years. But modern panels have much less degradation... we're talking 0.5%/year or less these days. 20 years = 10% loss. Panels don't die that way anyway. They'll just keep producing. Panels die when their environmental seals die and water gets under the glass. That's about the only thing that can actually kill a panel. A modern panel can easily last 40 years. You can count on at least 30. You'll have a few panel failures over that time but to give you an idea of what that means... I didn't even NOTICE that I had 2 failed panels for several years on that original system. People with micro-inverter systems have a tad more maintenance... micro-inverters won't last as long as the panels, though they will still last a good 20 years these days. -Matt

[@raulfernandez6826]

Most solar equipment is warrantied to not drop below a certain power output for 20+ yrs. They can & do keep making power for much longer.

[@vincei4252]

I didn't go with a roof mount system for permitting and insurance reasons. I have two ground mounts that I built myself that put out just over 11kW. They're both connected to a Solark-12K and a 1600AH battery bank. Yes, that is 1600AH. I did all the work, installation and wiring myself as I'm an electrical engineer. Commissioned in 2020 during the pandemic, the house just rolled over 30MWh of power generation. I'm about to increase my storage capacity by adding 2 more giant 48V 280AH batteries which will bring me to just over 2000AH of power storage. I'm 100% off grid and don't sell anything back.

[@EverydayHomeRepairs]

Boom 💥. That’s a setup. What brand battery do you go with on the original and new addition?

[@vincei4252]

​@@EverydayHomeRepairs I know there are server rack batteries that you can buy BUT I still don't think they're at a good enough price point. I started out with 8x 100AH Battleborn LiFePO4 batteries. Circa 2020 they were incredibly expensive running to almost $8k. 200AH of Battleborn batteries wasn't nearly enough to run everything in my house. Since then I have built DIY batteries with raw LiFePO4 cells. I bought them in sets of 32x @280AH from Basen in China but have since switched to getting them from a vendor here in the States as even with shipping it is weirdly cheaper and faster than buying them directly from China, waiting months and paying loads for the shipping. Obviously there's more work to do with raw cells, like BMS and wiring, etc, but I don't mind doing that as everything is under my control. I wouldn't recommend it for anyone that is not electrically savvy, though. The vendor is 18650BatteryStore that I believe Will Prowse has mentioned them a few times.

[@vincei4252]

Since putting in my system me neighbors have been installing ground mounts on their homes too. We're out in the countryside so there is room for them.

[@rickrys2729]

The REC's and the full net metering are not always available. Without net metering you will save the most when PV production is coincident with your loads, so smaller systems may pay back faster. Or maybe you can move some loads to the sunny part of the day, like water heating, drying clothes, or charging an EV. Full retail rate or 1:1 net metering is a big advantage if your utility supports it.

[@DonaldZiems]

In Illinois, Retail Net Metering is guaranteed by state law for the life of the system (defined as 30 years from connection) for systems installed until the end of this year. Then it drops down to Supply-only net metering, again for the life of the system.

[@cmuboy]

Man, I need to move to Illinois. That Energy Credit from the state is insane. And Net Metering is going (or have gone) away in most states, including California.

[@anthonys1573]

Just wanted to mention tesla now has a gateway switch that your meter itself plugs into that negates the need for things like a shutoff switch

[@jugheadjones5458]

I also pay $0.08 / kWh. Solar panels have their place and I checked into it. A salesman came and insisted that the panels HAD to go on the front. I said, “No way.” His quote was about the cost quoted in this video. They try to sell the tax credits. I can’t qualify for tax credits so that would do us no good. Solar panels have not kept up with technology, based on my research as of 2 years ago. I don’t criticize anyone for having solar power, but I tried to justify it and couldn’t.

[@raulreyes2899]

When your electricity rates are so low I get it my low rate is at .34 when on demand rates hit it’s double so in CA it makes sense in a lot of areas in California

[@jugheadjones5458]

@@raulreyes2899 Your rate is awful and ridiculous. I can see how solar might make sense for you.

[@abrahammc2125]

I have a 0.49c off peak and a 0.59c on peak in California. I self installed a 6.5kw system myself, its really beneficial for me, since im capable of doing this work myself. Its pretty much free money for me.

[@jugheadjones5458]

@@abrahammc2125 it certainly makes sense for you. I think I calculated a 17-20 year payback for me.

[@timezonewall]

Just like real estate in general, it's location, location, location. In some locations it make a lot of sense, in other places the ROI is terrible. Unfortunately the industry isn't always the most honest about it.

[@weloveups831]

So without government subsidies it's get even worse. Panel maintenance and repair does happen. Roof repair under the panels adds cost.

[@alzuu1]

panels barely have any maintenance - only thing you need to do is to make sure they don't get extremely dirty and often times, the rain will take care of that.

[@hacked2123]

Always funny seeing how much more people paid than me for their solar project. I paid $60k for 250kw/day of solar and 100kw of battery storage (including all associated materials)

[@Russianmafia10]

I got a ppa but i plan to buy it out after a few years so i get the benefits of the cash price but the years of saved costs

[@95dodgev10]

I'm in Madison county Illinois just north of St. Louis Mo. I believe the last year we have been paying 12 cents per kw for electricity. But i just got a letter a week ago that it's supposed to change to 8 cents for the upcoming year.

[@EverydayHomeRepairs]

I used to be $0.12/ kWh as well but then it dropped about 12-18 months back.

[@junkerzn7312]

There are also sur-charges for excess electricity usage that you have to take into account in Missouri. Look at your actual electric bill and divide by kWh for a couple of months and see where you stand in reality. With all of that the average utility bill in Missouri isn't really all that different than the average utility bill in California. Lets see. Well, several google'able tables the one I'm reading now shows $627 (gas, electric, water, sewer, internet, phone) for California and $605 for Missouri. Even though California is exceeding $0.50/kWh now. For obvious reasons... A/C and dehumidification needs in Missouri. This means that if you can replace (for example) natural gas appliances with electric appliances, not to mention gasoline with electric (which isn't included in the above numbers), the equation can change drastically as you reap economies of scale. But you have to calculate carefully because that might also mean you hit up against "excess electricity" charges... which could make adding solar a cost effective option. -Matt

[@johnakemann]

If I were to take the plunge with solar, I'd take out a loan for the full amount and then take the credits and invest them in the market. As long as the market income exceeds the interest part of the monthly payments, you are ahead.

[@junkerzn7312]

This is an age-old desire, but the reality doesn't usually work out so well. Debt is still debt and in the mean time you are juggling additional cash flow needs for years to make payments on the loan while investment returns are both without stability and also without the benefit of compounding (due to having to make loan payments). It becomes a tall order. One is universally better-off saving the necessary cash first (invested or otherwise, compounded or otherwise) and then just paying for the system once you have accumulated sufficient funds. And this is true for essentially any purchase you make short of a home. Cars, in particular. People get into serious trouble with debt precisely because those monthly payments squeeze your month-to-month cash flow. One can become extremely vulnerable if job-loss occurs, for example. So I don't recommend it. It is not a recipe to get ahead. -Matt

[@quercusrubra777]

$0.14/KWH in SE Tennessee. This price has doubled in 25 years. I paid $0.11/KWH on a Kansas Farm 27 years ago.

[@billiam247]

Whoa, it looks like we have the same model house!

[@EverydayHomeRepairs]

Nice, we like this home. It has been perfect for our family but we are moving in 2 months. So the background scene will be changing soon and more Solar installations!

[@Matt-SquirrelCop]

I installed a 6.6kW system myself using design plans and parts from IronRidge, panels from Panasonic and Solar Edge inverters/converters. The system cost me $12K to install myself which I got 30% back from. Total out of pocket was $8400. These systems are so easy to install nowadays. Everything is basically plug and play including the mounting. The only thing I needed to do per county rules was to have an electrician connect the converter to the main panel. Don’t pay a company $30K+ if you don’t have to.

[@garyp272727]

Hi Matt, would like to know more on your installation and how u did it ? Ty

[@Matt-SquirrelCop]

@ I literally designed both my ground system and my dad’s roof system by first going to Ironridge and designing them on their website. I found the most efficient and powerful panels that had a good name brand available at the time and it was the Panasonics. Bought the Solar Edge Inverter and all associated parts from a distributor out of AZ. Did the work myself and was only required to have an electrician tie us into the grid. Iron Ridge stuff is awesome and so easy to work with. The instructions could be followed by a 5yr old.

[@garyp272727]

@ Ty vm

[@Capafool]

Did mine DIY in TX, at my current 0.16/kwh rate based on what I paid I project recovering in 7-8yrs, and I'm OK with that. This is assuming much of what you pointed out. I paid roughly $1.40/W

[@paullindemann8450]

0.107 kWh Roy WA after energy, distribution and fixed charges.

[@ssrrocks22]

In Texas, it has become a major issue with insurance companies and whether or not they will cover your house, roof, or even the, solar panels. I good example is my insurance company. Because I have an FHA loan, my insurance company is dictated by the lender. After having the insurance company come out and do a complete analysis of the solar company the way they were going to attach the panels i would have ended up paying almost doubled my premiums to add the solar panels. The second problem was the solar company. They only warranty the panels and other equipment for a limited time. Two years all parts and labor, and 10 years on the panels and 5 years on the electoral convertor from defects no labor. Third was the ending of solar. I would have to be plugged into the electric grid and would be charged by the electric company for being tired into their system. I would also be responsible for any damage from a power failure should the electric company deem it was caused by my solar panels. Note: Your insurance company will not cover damages should the power company deem you responsible! All this made me decide it wasn't worth the cost or the potential issues I would be responsible for. One neighbor installed a Tesla roof with a Tesla power wall. It ended up costing him close to $110K. Was it worth is. Not in my estimation. Two years later, he has had a number of Tesla roof panels replaced at the cost of more than $2300 so far. Just last month, he had one of his battery wall units go off line. Tesla service said he had a bad battery pack. No problem, the battery was under warranty, but the $ 1073.00 service call wasn't. After doing some math it is costing he just over $ 140.58 per month for his tesla solar. His electric bill is only $ 57.28 less per month currently. Not a major savings especially when you consider his other cost...

[@almightyEsquilax]

Enphase's combiner box that lets you add their batteries lets you run your panels when the grid is down even if you don't have batteries.

[@almightyEsquilax]

Sorry, it's not the combiner, it's the system controller.

[@andrewwestfall234]

There’s also sunlight backup on the newer IQ8 micro inverters.

[@desertheat4659]

Interesting video. One thing that you didn’t mention was the lifespan of the solar system. Any insight on how many years a typical solar system will last?

[@gregpochet4812]

Interesting about your SREC program. I had 3 choices, one of them was to be paid out. I did not choose that. I chose to get paid "market rate" throughout the year. I get paid whenever my brokerage company decides to pay me. There is , so far, no pattern. it is not quarterly, monthly, etc.. I live in VA.

[@chrisrobey77]

11.4 MWh yearly production seems low for that system. My Ameren bill has separate distribution and purchase costs totaling above 0.20 cents per kWh so 0.08 sounds low……

[@dcmotive]

50 cents per kw in CA. So there is the screw PG$E factor in getting solar. Even if it costs more, it feels good to cut them off.

[@EverydayHomeRepairs]

I bet, thanks for the feedback!

[@rocktman81]

Another FANTASTIC video!

[@EverydayHomeRepairs]

Thanks so much!

[@edjacobs8876]

Solar panels are the K+N filters of the automotive world.

[@margaritabuddy]

My utility company is a coop and I called them and they said they don't allow solar users to feed back into the grid. This would seem to complicate the practically for us, make it messy to swap from utility company to solar.

[@orional1977]

$11700 invested at 5% is over $20k after 11 years when compounded annually.

[@peaslead]

Yep, just depends on what premium you put on helping the environment by reducing your energy emissions.

[@junkerzn7312]

Yah... but no. People aren't savers by and large. Unfortunately. $11700 not invested is $11700 spent on other things, more than likely. And also, a person's economic power tends to drop after they retire. You always want to do projects that benefit your future self earlier rather than later. Always. -Matt

[@davefroman4700]

Never paying an energy bill for the rest of your life is priceless..

[@Stashmo]

@@davefroman4700But is it?

[@Ish14511]

Exactly. and lets also not forget the real cost is $37k. The rest has to be picked up by increased taxes.

[@tjevo4g]

Only $0.08/kWh?! I am extremely jealous. We have tiered pricing. During the summer it goes as high as $0.46/kWh during off-peak hours and $0.59/kWh during peak hours (5pm-8pm).

[@michaelriecher5632]

You must have PG&E.

[@wayneknodel3347]

I wonder how long all the credits and tax reductions will be in force? The battery car industry has taken a real damaging blow since the government took away all the freebies. Also, from my understanding, solar panel life is only about 20 years - what will replacement costs be in that time? And for roof mounted systems, what are the potential additional costs for roof replacement/repair, and do the panels result in any extra wear and tear on roofing materials? Great video BTW, but although their are some great applications for solar on homes, I tend to see it as a zero sum investment because of all the variables. Maybe technology will provide future answers.

[@Rayh423]

No. I met a lady in my area who has spent thousands of dollars in solar panels. She is giving FPL a whole bunch of power back and she still has to pay them $25 a month. She will never break even. I don’t know in other states but here in Florida you still always have to pay FPL at least $25 dollars a month.

[@slinnky]

This is a good thing. Otherwise you create huge inequity, where people who can’t afford solar panels have to pay for both their premiums of utility infrastructure fees, and the premiums of rich people who can’t afford solar afford solar power. You always want everyone to pay the infrastructure premiums. That does change the ROI timeline, but at least it’s fair.

[@thegrimmperspective]

In the state of Illinois, that 1:1 net metering will be reduced come January 1st. In the state of Illinois we have the ability to shop for our electricity provider. If you have Ameren, have you considered looking into Power Smart Pricing?

[@schadlarry]

I live in the Southwest so it is definitely feasible but I would never put panels on a roof. I'd have an array on the ground with used panels you can get for cheap in Phoenix and do as much work myself. I would think being in the Midwest you would really have to over panel.

[@timezonewall]

There are many advantages to ground mounting (easier installation, easier maintenance, less impact on HO insurance, etc). The issue in ground mounted panels for most people is having sufficient space. It seems most homes built in the last 25 years have too small of back yards for ground mounting to be practical for a reasonably sized system.

[@ytown4]

Another expense would be when you need to replace the roof. I imagine you have to uninstall and reinstall the panels.

[@raulfernandez6826]

Yes, correct. Which is why any reputable installer will refuse to install solar on a roof with less than 8-10 yrs of life remaining. Everyone’s situation is different but if roof replacement is due soon that should be done before installing solar.

[@yorkehunt9476]

the other thing that you need to factor in is the life of the solar panel and the decline in output. Up in Canada, I am paying $.0888/ KWH (CDN) and our bills are 75 to 80% fixed costs. For me, solar is just not feasible.

[@jasonbroom7147]

I split time between two locations where the electricity rates are $.11 and $.13, respectively. These locations have a fair number of days that are at least partly cloudy, so not optimal for PV. As much as I enjoy solar (I have inverters and batteries in both locations, for when the grid is down), I just can't justify a large, professionally-installed system. The ROI would exceed the life expectancy of the panels. Not worth it in my situation, in part because I don't live in one place all year to realize the benefit.

[@davids2530]

No. I have moderate energy costs. Solar raises insurance premiums. Eventual roof replacement cost will be higher. Panels can be ripped off of roof during a storm. 12/12 roof- I’d have to hire contractors. Many people will not buy a house with solar so house value might decrease. Components eventually need to be replaced. The laws can change - pretty sure California changed net metering law and solar owners were screwed. Risks clearly outweigh benefits.

[@junkerzn7312]

Mother nature can wash away your house too. A larger house will raise your insurance premiums. An old house will raise your insurance premiums. The wrong type of roof. Nearby trees. Bushes right up against the house. All sorts of things that people don't think about can raise their insurance premiums. That doesn't mean you don't do something. If that were the only litmus test everyone would be living in 300 sq-ft shacks. People buy what they desire to buy and what they can afford. Can one even attach a dollar value to peace of mind? Insulation from inflation? Power outages? In anycase, solar isn't for everyone. But you can convince yourself of anything with a bad argument. -Matt

[@davids2530]

@@junkerzn7312Matt - you focused on one issue I raised and ignored the rest of the negative aspects I mentioned. To me, it’s a simple cost/benefit analysis of ALL the pros and cons. Not just the insurance.

[@junkerzn7312]

​@@davids2530 The main problem with your argument is that you are assuming solar to be an adder to your cost of owning a home. It isn't an adder, it is part of the decision making you should be doing when determine what and where to buy in the first place to meet your budget. One can argue all sorts of nonsensical paths using your thesis, and I outlined one such nonsensical path in my response. Not only is it not an adder, but not all solar installations will even have the detrimental effects in your list. Which we will go through after my explanation. If you have budget $X and have a desire to or think there might be a potential to add solar, then you include that in your budget. Simple as that. The result may be a slightly smaller home in a slightly different neighborhood. If those factors are not in your litmus, then its not a trade-off for you. If those factors are in your litmus, then it might be an unreasonable trade-off for you. Simple as that. Even if you were to treat solar as an adder, it still adds value to the home if you ever sell it, or its an investment in the future of your family when your kids inherit it. Or its a contribution to your retirement if you have to downsize later in life. And in the mean time, it is providing an enormous number of benefits to you personally that you have to weigh against the costs. -- So lets look at your list and see what the total calculus is. Benefits (my list): * Immune from utility price inflation. * Reduced monthly expenses. * Ability to reduce expenses further with further electrification as appliances wear out (Vehicle, water heater, furnace). * Benefit to inheritors. * Benefit to you if you move out or downsize later in life. (The higher value of the home with solar). * Investment in the future of humanity. * Hobby DIY potential * Backup power and flexibility in case of emergency. Detriments (from your list): * Solar raises insurance premiums? It didn't raise mine. You don't have to insure the solar installation or include it in the home insurance. It has a 25 year warranty. Ground, Pergola, and Car-Port mounts are even easier to omit from insurance. * Eventual roof replacement... gonna depend on the roof, yes? Someone with a metal roof that outlives them won't care. A roof replacement 30 years down the line after the solar has long since paid for itself... the incremental cost divided by all those years is going to be fairly low and guess what? You can DIY the removal and you are already wired for the reinstallation so you can either DIY that or hire a company to do it. * Panels can be ripped off of roof during a storm. Well... no, that really isn't a thing. Sure it can happen, but a storm that strong is really unlike for most people (obviously certain locations are going to be more prone than others), and a storm that strong would otherwise destroy your roof anyway. Solar panels do not make roofs weaker and are not fragile. * Many people will not buy a house with solar... say what? That's ridiculous. Solar universally increases the value of a home, not decreases it. You made that up. * Components eventually need to be replaced. Yes, of course. Just regular maintenance. You will have to replace things, probably piecemeal, starting at roughly the 25 year mark. It's not a major cost and not a major problem. Everything in life wears out. Everything. That isn't an excuse not to buy or own something. Come on. Be realistic. * The laws can change. Yes they can. So what? California's laws did change. That caused a reduction in new installations. It had no effect on existing installations because everyone with existing installations are grandfathered for 20 year since the date of installation. Nor does it make solar non-economical. It just means your payback is where it was 20 years ago, back at the 15 year mark, if you were to have it professionally installed. Laws can change, but if you are going to go through life constantly being afraid that the laws are going to conspire against you, you won't have a very fun life dude! Laws can change for better or for worse. But regardless of that you can always benefit from the self-consumption and self-storage (if it came to it). -Matt

[@timezonewall]

For you, it may not make any sense at all. Like real estate in general, it's location, location, location. The laws may be favorable for solar or they may not. There may be a lot of sun year round, or there may not. Local energy costs may be high or low. If one has a big lot, they can ground mount instead of using the roof, decreasing installation, maintenance, and insurance costs. One can even choose not to grid tie, have energy storage, and power part of the home from the grid and part from solar. There is no one right answer for everyone.

[@billhaley8873]

In NH with my utility we pay $0.167 per kWh we use from the grid and we receive $0.110 back for every kWh we send back to the grid. We also get reimbursed for our RECs once a year after the power has been generated at a rate of about $32 per MWh. I wish we got our forecasted RECs in advance and 1 for 1 net metering. What happens if your system has a failure and you decide the cost to repair is not worth it, do they come back after you for the REC money they gave you upfront? I had lightning strike near the house and it took out all the Enphase micro inverters. Luckily my insurance covered it because it was very expensive to remove and replace all the inverters.

[@ranig2848]

You didn’t mention you savings - basically since the system is supposed to last 25 years, you are basically going to SAVE over $10,000 over the life of the system. Also, many people install a system that is way too large. If ROI is important, and especially if you live where there’s tiered electric pricing, getting a smaller system will provide the BEST bang for your buck. I was able to optimize for 7 year ROI and over the life of the system it will save me over $35,000! (And it cost me less that $10,000 out of pocket after tax returns). Was a super easy decision to make especially as I was able to pay for it out of pocket and didn’t need a loan 🥳

[@Scott_6666]

The savings is not as much as you think. Over 25 years, components will inevitably fail and need to be replaced, the roof will need to be re-shingled and there will be a labor cost associated with removing and reinstalling everything. Also, the integrity of the roof has been breached with all of the mounting hardware, leading to possible leaks and expensive water damage.

[@John-tx1wk]

@@Scott_6666 You are correct about replacement/maintenance cost. You have to figure that in on your costs and ROI. But you're making an assumption on where his solar is installed. Depending on your available land and tree coverage you can easily mount panels on the ground. And if you can I would recommend it.

[@Scott_6666]

@@John-tx1wk The ground is not an option for most people. Average lot size is 80" x 100" or smaller, unless you live on a farm or are Jeff Bezos.

[@richardnowacki2869]

Is there additional cost for maintaining the system? What’s the extra cost when your roof needs replaced and the panels need to come down and then back on?

[@johnzach2057]

And this is why I disagree with the approach that US has taken. Big residential solar installations. It would have been much better to use small plug and play kits of 500-1000W that are essentially 2 panels and a microinverter which you plug in a socket. And that's it. No installation cost, not bureaucracy, no inspections. And the cost should be about $0.7-$1.0 per W. This is what Germany does with their balcony kits.

[@nickk05281982]

Cept for when it back feeds during an outage because the cheap inverter doesn’t stop or you have a fire and they don’t have an easy way to disconnect it from backfeeding

[@johnzach2057]

@@nickk05281982 Not a single one of the micro inverters in Germany allow backfeed during outage and only authorized ones can be used. And you can also stop them very easily. Either pull their cord (duh) or switch off your main switch.

[@junkerzn7312]

@@nickk05281982 In practice, grid-tie inverters only stay energized in very rare situations when the greater grid goes down. It's on a lineman's checklist but otherwise not an issue. A tiny little 500-1000W micro-inverter isn't going to try to power the entire grid, it will disconnect and shutdown. You can look up the standard if you like, its called UL1741.

[@timezonewall]

@@nickk05281982 A micro inverter isn't more likely to back feed any more than a large inverter. The cost of the inverter is mostly based on it's capacity. Rather it's a large grid tie inverter or a small one, they would both have to comply to the same safety standards to be legally sold.

[@finned958]

This doesn’t work if you plug into the home electrical system. Plug directly on to the appliances. There’s no plug and play unless the house is already designed to accept solar and batteries.

[@joseayalatr3s]

How can you add a battery to an already installed system? Is it possible to DIY a project like that? I also because it requires monitoring, correct?

[@nsen9468]

How about home insurance? Insurance (Florida) for a house with an installed roof solar system is very expensive. The best quot indicates $200 monthly increase.

[@markhunt6573]

I am paying $0.08 here in Arkansas

[@jamessotherden5909]

here in Central NY state we are paying .082 cents per KWH

[@cmichaelhaugh8517]

Interesting piece.

[@calebschneider3359]

Seattle, WA - $.102566 Per KWH on my latest bill.

[@dasfahrer8187]

We've had two systems on two different houses in different areas of the country that are conducive for solar. It wasn't worth it. We took them down last year and won't ever be installing another one again.

[@rl8571]

Found out a family friend spent $100k on a roof full of solar grid tie only plus a Generac (solar knock sales). It's channels like yours that made me more solar literate and helped alot on my DIY option which didn't even go over $3k with batteries and ground mounted. Outage ready here in Texas. Thanks for all you do.

[@DerekRhoads]

I'm just wondering why the system cost before tax and rebate savings is so expensive. I assume there are no batteries included in that price since you have a 1-to-1 NEM.

[@chuckhowland5146]

What about maintenance and insurance costs? I live in Arkansas and there can be hail occasionally - last year we had golf ball size.

[@greghelton4668]

It’s a shame Tesla never followed through on their solar roof tile product. Solar doesn’t make much financial sense but the idea is to reduce our CO2 footprint. I live in an area prone to hurricanes and solar panels often don’t hold up in storms and even damage the roof.

[@EverydayHomeRepairs]

I would love for the panels to also be your roof covering. That would really help offset some of the cost.

[@keiththompson2289]

What happens if you get a leak in your roof? I just put on a new metal roof. Would hate to screw all this "stuff" into it.

[@EverydayHomeRepairs]

If you were to get a leak under the array you would have to remove the panels and then address the leak. The flashing and attachments points have a lot of thought and design features to make this scenario as unlikely as possible assuming properly installed.

[@junkerzn7312]

Well, if its a metal roof you might have standing seams that you can attach the mounts to, and not have to drill at all. Lookup "S-5 solar clamp" for example. Metal roofs are ideal for solar systems.

[@lyndabuchholz1216]

I have solar but I am not connected to the grid. They were going to charge me close to the same price as my solar installation to bring the grid in to my home. Then I would have to pay monthly payments for their power so I feel I am way ahead.

[@EverydayHomeRepairs]

Yeah, that is one of the best type of justifications for solar and batteries. I would like to build an off grid cabin in the coming years 👍. What inverter did you go with?

[@lyndabuchholz1216]

@@EverydayHomeRepairs My son installed it so I don't know for sure but we bought the system from a company that helped us design it and had the parts. I do have propane appliances except the fridge and freezers. I tried to plan for things that didn't use or used very little electricity.

[@timezonewall]

This is the best setup if it makes sense for the location.

[@rcmrcm3370]

How about solar roof vs. solar pannels?

[@EverydayHomeRepairs]

Oh man, I wish there were more options for solar roofs. I think that is by far the path forward because we could use the cost of replacing your roof to offset the cost of the solar roof.

[@Sight-Beyond-Sight]

I have watched so many of these videos and done many mock build plans that I can tell you this: $37K for 11KW w/o batteries and you did the labor? You got ripped off!! Also, not a fan of micro inverters as I would look to feed even a modest battery bank utilizing a DC optimizer. Only flip it to AC/DC once in this case to increase efficiency. Then you have some options!!

[@scotts4125]

You missed the part when he stated at least TWICE he paid for installation included in the $37,000. He did a DIY on a completely different rental property.

[@EverydayHomeRepairs]

This one I did not do the labor. I installed a smaller 4.8 kW system on a rental property but that only ran me about $8,500 after 30% Federal tax credit.

[@sjtonic]

What's the reason on putting a solar system on a rental property?

[@JoeyFry]

Scott, any chance you can do a video of what's required to get solar from the panels into the house (disconnect and surge protectors) and connected to the EcoFlow Delta Pro Ultra (like you have in your rental property)? I used your website, but none of the contractors seem interested if it's not leased panels on a grid-tied system. I have no interest in feeding back to the grid. I'm just looking to connect 12 panels to my DPU to support my home in case of power loss. TIA.

[@LA-rl1lu]

Why is a battery integrated in to the system a requirement for using solar-generated power during a blackout?

[@NickEspy]

Can you do a video on the Anker solix home power panel please haha no one in my area wants to touch it to install it

[@tracle8334]

.58 Cent per KW in CA

[@dougr3715]

I’ve seen solar panels on the ground that have the ability to to tilt on a youtube channel that admittedly owns some land. What affect dos snow and ice getting under the expensive panels?

[@junkerzn7312]

Tracking systems are not generally cost-effective for residential solar, only for commercial solar. The reason is that the tracking system itself can cost as much as the panels mounted on it, and since the tracking system contains moving parts there will be maintenance and a certain degree of fragility that fixed mounts do not have. Panels are sealed on both sides, so snow and ice isn't a problem. Snow-load can be a problem but in that case you design the system so the snow sheds off the panels (generally just means they are angled more). In snow country, most solar panel systems are gonna be on fixed mounts, off the ground a bit, and sharply angled.

[@timezonewall]

As @junkerzn7312 said, tracking doesn't usually make sense, however ground mounted solar is preferable to roof mounted, it's just not possible for most residential situations. Ground mounted is easier to install, easier to maintain, and has less impact on insurance. If there is snow build up on a ground panel, just brush it off.

[@eyefly001]

I don't want anything on my roof. I have heard about new panels that can collect sun from both sides. I would go for a fence made out of solar panels.

[@EverydayHomeRepairs]

Yeah bifacial panels on a ground mount on in my near future 💯

[@samjones1954]

your bringing 3 AC lines into one.. how do you deal with phase shift?

[@junkerzn7312]

There is no phase shift because the micro-inverters synchronize to the grid. They don't just output an AC waveform. They will output nothing at all if not connected to the grid or to a master inverter of some kind (and for enphase's intentional islanding feature, to a master control signal).

[@rollinswitch]

There is no free lunch! Those subsidies (the bulk of the system) are being paid for by your neighbors. Sure it's nice to rip the system but once solar reaches a few percent of power (now) taxes rise, inflation rises, national and other debt rises. In the long run (less than a system lifetime) people figure this out as the governments can no longer supply the funds due to too many users. So subsidies end, growth stops and then what?

[@EverydayHomeRepairs]

Yeah, if the industry can't work on driving more efficiency and reduced costs solar is a no go for most. The dream of the Tesla solar roof where it is truly integrated in the roof cover seems like the way but they have struggled in scaling that product.

[@junkerzn7312]

Think about the subsidies oil and gas gets (fossil fuel in general), and then consider what happens if those go away.

[@raulfernandez6826]

Correction, the tax credit comes out of the home owner’s tax liability. In other words they keep their hard earned money. Sound good?

[@rollinswitch]

@raulfernandez6826 and somebody else makes up the difference

[@rollinswitch]

@junkerzn7312 All corporations are subsidized. Imagine if individuals could deduct operating expenses from their taxes! If oil and gas subsidies went away, the price would rise and taxes would fall. Imagine if farm subsidies vanished. Crazy how many industries live off the taxes, ninety six percent which is paid by individuals. Amazing how many projects Don't start until the feds pony up money. But that's how the system runs.

[@HomesteadEngineering]

I won't name names but it is easy to find battery backed solar power systems with 12,000W inverters, 30kWh batteries and 12,000W solar arrays for $15,000. Easy to install guys, just take a look around KZbin.

[@DlxyRekt]

12k cost with maintenance if anything goes wrong. Noo thank you but great video

[@MegaSuperEnrique]

I wouldn't mind a solar field, and taking depreciation and costs under a business loss, but there's no way I would attach it to my residentual roof

[@EverydayHomeRepairs]

We are doing a large project on a commercial building we own. There are a LOT of incentives for commercial.

[@MegaSuperEnrique]

@EverydayHomeRepairs I'm very interested to see that video

[@chancejensen9324]

What backup battery do you use?

[@EverydayHomeRepairs]

For this system I don't have a backup battery. I have an EcoFlow Delta Pro 3 and spare battery (total of 8 kWh) which I plug into my generator inlet connected to an interlock. This will still not utilize the solar panels on the roof since the interlock will cut the power to the panels and they will not produce.

[@chancejensen9324]

@@EverydayHomeRepairs Ah ok. Thanks for answering. I have almost the same setup with (22) 410w REC A, IQ8A microinverters, and an Enphase 10T kwh backup battery. I also have two Delta Pros with Extra Batteries. Just wanted to see if you have a way to somehow use the Ecoflows with the Enphase.

[@howa9362]

You mentioned that if the grid was down and you did not have batteries, you would not be able to utilize the panels. Can you explain why?

[@DonaldZiems]

Lineman Safety. If the grid goes down but your array is still on, it'll back feed the grid and Bad Things happen. So all commercially available inverters for grid-tied applications shut down if they sense the grid is down. If you go the string inverter (+ optimizer) route, you can cobble together a DC coupled critical loads circuit that can keep things running independent of the grid.

[@timezonewall]

@@DonaldZiems The system could be disconnected from the grid during a power outage, there is another issue that is not so easily addressed. The power output of solar varies a lot throughout the day and one needs a storage bank to level it out. One minute there could be more than enough power to run everything, then ten minutes later some clouds go by and the available power is only %40 of the demand. When that happens, the inverter shuts down. Electricity yo-yoing on-off-on-off is not only annoying, but it's really bad for electronic devices (which is pretty much everything in the house these days). Obviously during the night there is no solar at all.

[@howa9362]

@@DonaldZiems Thank You. That makes sense now!