Are You Changing Oil Too Often? You'll Be Surprised By These Lab Results! BMW Oil Analysis PART 1

[@EndlessMoneyPits]

Part 2: BMW Two Year Oil comparison: kzbin.info/www/bejne/bZmthmRnZ9SInZo

[@richh1576]

In my former life I was a lubrication engineer (tribologist). Particles in nature are usually of negative electronic charge and tend to 'clump' together (agglomerate) into larger and larger sized particles ... based on time. Most engines made earlier than about 2010 are built upon the 20 µM (micrometers) specification - defining the MOST DAMAGING PARTICLE SIZE in an internal combustion engine; many of the newer designed engines have a lesser/smaller sized particles-in-oil specification. Modern lubricating oils have added detergent, a chemical compound that alters the electronic surface characteristics of the particles. Such Detergents become 'used up' based on the time the oil is in service/operation. Secondly, the more modern engines have 'weaker' (less springy) piston rings (done to artificially improve gas milage). This allows MORE blow-by of the piston rings (and oil) to become 'settled' and deposited as 'carbon' behind and on the wrong side the piston rings and IN the ring grooves ('lands') of the piston. This build up of carbon can promote ring sticking (or 'stuck rings') leading to adverse cylinder wall wear, The remedy is: 1. if the vehicle is driven predominately at normal steady state, highway speeds, with the cruise contol engaged, with little stop & go intervals in between .... consider to change oil and 'quality' oil filter AT (or before) the manufacturers recommended change-out recommendations 2. If predominantly in stop and go conditions, and you're always accelerating and decelerating (aggressively) .... consider to change the oil at ***HALF*** the recommended interval to help ensure that your piston rings dont become stuck due to carbon build up in the piston ring grooves. Constant oil changeout - ON TIME , .... (or at half time intervals for 'stop and go') - ...... is VASTLY CHEAPER than an engine rebuild or 'new' vehicle. For myself I typically get 200 - 300k+ miles out of a well made engine. (FWIW - I never buy a new design 'engined' vehicle, until it proves itself to be itself in **long term** driving conditions to be long-term-reliable). Lastly, avoid 'beating' the engine with rapid acceleration/deceleration, 'especially' including those times when the engine is BELOW normal operating TEMPERATURES. Hope this helps. ;-)

[@Nellis202]

That was most helpful and much appreciated.

[@jhndijkman]

That feels about.

[@halkennedy6353]

The last one is critical.. Before you venture near red line, have the engine at full operating temp.

[@ContraNovae]

I am an Amsoil fanatic and only change my oil (signature) every 25k miles. I do have a 2 micron Amsoil bypass filter installed. Oil when changed looked almost new.

[@satvikarora5813]

engines are happy to be beat on as long as they are at proper operating temperature.

[@tennentslagerman8910]

Changing the oil is one of the most satisfying feelings

[@JesseEdwards-d1x]

Keeping coolent clean will too

[@factchecker1980]

How often should I change the COOLANT? I have 57,000 miles on the vehicle.

[@knighttaylor4272]

@@factchecker1980when its stops cooling haha idk

[@ExecuteBrandon]

You’re a true grease monkey!

[@joshb7415]

@@factchecker1980 my bmw changes coolant by its self....

[@dhanarputra555]

a rare video where I can enjoy the content without feeling too much dragged.

[@dimos5422]

My personal experience with oil changes is to take whatever the manufacturer says and divide that by 2 seems to do the trick.

[@Stoff1]

Do you do that with the rest of the service schedule?

[@jimsgaragetoys]

That's a good thing to do since the manufacturer gives OCI for normal driving and most of us fall into the severe use category which is half as you do. Oil changes are cheap, engines are not.

[@redghost3170]

Good advice.

[@davemoore53]

What are you trying to achieve?

[@alexlindekugel8727]

well i wouldn't nessasarly say half but yah im leary of going much over 5k miles on any vehicle. but also let the vehicle tell you what it wants. if burn oil then going to long probly. if its black as night may want to change more often to tho im awear sum vehicles nearly instantly turn oil black.

[@jamespatton3720]

I love that you redline it everyday. A man that enjoys his car.

[@EndlessMoneyPits]

And it loves me back (I hope)

[@perpetualgrin5804]

I'm the opposite, rarely go over 2000rpm😅.

[@mickeyadvani3749]

Occasional Red lining of engine helps the life of the Engine. Keeps the Engine clean.

[@SeeSaw72]

At red line engine speeds the alternator spins two to three times faster. Those bearings in the alternator will have a short life. As well the brushes and slip rings wear out faster. Is it good for the engine at those high speeds, I doubt it. Low revving diesels will get over a million miles and racing cars about five hundred miles to a thousand miles before rebuilds. Speed wears things out. Just my 2cents.

[@EndlessMoneyPits]

The alternator will have a short life span? How short? It's lasted 24 years and 290,000 miles so far.

[@TastySurrealBowl]

I recently had an oil analysis performed by LN Engineering and while the ppm of all elements examined were in the good range, they encouraged doing a “dual” sample test in the future (sending a bottle of the brand new, unused oil before it went in along with one when it came out 5,000 miles later) in order to know the exact levels of all the original additives, etc. before and after. They said this gives an more accurate picture of what the engine is doing.

[@Richard-qz8up]

​@@johnchapman7719 BS

[@ping_me1vp]

I 100% with that decision otherwise they don't really know the baselines starting points

[@jekutube9]

k @johnchapman7719 = if your car has a dipstick [computerized in Audi display] would you stick a rod (like a long bicycle spoke) where you fill the oil in that case?

[@aluisious]

How does an oil analysis company not have that data on file merely by you telling them what product you're using?

[@TastySurrealBowl]

@@aluisiousI can only guess that there might be very subtle fluctuations in amounts of individual additives over time, and using the exact oil you started with would be the only way to guarantee a really precise measurement of the changes that were caused exclusively by your specific engine (and not the oil manufacturer). Formulations are constantly evolving.

[@BabyBugBug]

I always do my oil changes at 5-7k miles and I’m glad to see I was right in my suspicions.

[@richardchampion4826]

Yep, 4-5 k on my Jeep, my 2011 SRT Challenger once a year right before winter storage, only drive 2k a year on it. I feel oil and filters are cheap.

[@Globetrotter-1]

10-years is a good interval. I prefer not to ever do oil changes or oil filters and simply top up oil level when needed. Previous petrol Mercedes cars ran 250,000 and 137,000 miles with no oil changes and still were running smoothly when sold. Present BMW X5 diesel SUV no oil changes for 3-years. Heavily used on a daily basis yet still running smooth as silk.

[@wagyubeef925]

​@@Globetrotter-1 lol waat?

[@Globetrotter-1]

@@wagyubeef925 True....I believe oil, oil filters and cabin air filters definitely don't need to be changed often and especially not at stupid frequent intervals! As long as you maintain oil levels then there is no problem running cars daily for many years and racking up high mileages. I also never do car services on any of my vehicles. It's just not necessary and saves a lot of money in the long run.

[@h7pubg]

@@Globetrotter-1 lol

[@Martcapt]

Thank you for the stellar km conversions. Everyone should do that for the international audience

[@EndlessMoneyPits]

Thanks for watching!

[@carolhattersley9322]

In order to decide on oil change intervals, you have to consider your driving conditions. The deterioration of the oil is dependent on how many cold starts you perform, and on whether the engine is run up to operating temp each time you run it. If you tend to run short errands with a delay between trips, your oil will deteriorate more quickly. During warm-up, acid and water vapor is created during this period. If you get the engine all the way up to temp, most of the water vapor evaporates and blows out the tailpipe. The acid that occurs during the warm-up process just collects in the oil, contaminating it. Also a consideration is whether you do much driving in excessively dusty conditions. To simplify all this, if you drive 200 miles on the highway, your engine will get more wear during the first 2 minutes of warm-up than it will during the 200 miles of driving. All of these factors are why it is difficult to have a single hard and fast rule about intervals. Also, if you are using synthetic oil, it is more resistant to deterioration. Also, if your engine is turbocharged, this is very hard on the oil, much like the effects of large amounts of steroids on a human body. If you talk to a mechanic, they will invariably tell you that turbocharged engines nearly always have a shorter life than non-turbo versions of the same engine. A engine -oil analysis is a really good way to measure the best interval for oil changes for your own type of driving, but it doesn't tell you much about your neighbor who has a different pattern of use. BILL

[@husainzaidi1527]

What about those cars whose running per month is not more than 400 - 500 miles ? Which engine oil is suitable for such cars, synthetic or non-synthetic?

[@jaliyaudagama2752]

Exactly 👍

[@tonydavis190]

@@husainzaidi1527 Synthetic is still best for everything as it doesn't oxidize & break down like regular oil. However, short trips, especially in cold weather is hard on the oil & engine and to say for sure if you should change the oil, you need to send a sample to the lab & add the TBN (total base number) test to see whether the oil's TBN number drops below 1 which indicates the oil is getting to where it can no longer neutralize acids in the oil. Also, the test will show if there is fuel & water in the oil which would be the result of frequent short trips. If you don't drive your car much and don't want to spend money on lab test, just change the oil often with regular oil (or whatever your car calls for) and call it a day, following the severe service schedule in your owner's manual.

[@leadnsteel1428]

​@@Blondul11 a hybrid Broke My Wallet??? A regular one is expensive enough to fix i dont want to imagine a hybrid lol.

[@MrAlpinekid]

@@husainzaidi1527 My 2 cents worth, synthetic. Let engine warm up a few minutes before moving. This is important if you live in a cold climate of country. That is if you want engine to last a long time.

[@anaestereo810]

Well, i am the sucker that owns a n52 and changed religiously at 3k mi intervals along with the Mann filter. The thing sits at 178k mi and still pulls like a freight train. Enjoyed your vid thoroughly.

[@wankersonwhisky]

Local euro mechanic here advised every 6k KM (so ~4k miles) for n52 engines... cheaper than internal engine work!

[@stevecariggillio4139]

I do 4-5k with penn. Platinum euro 5w40. Engine looks like new Everytime I open it up.

[@nelsongonzalez580]

I have a 2006 330i with the n52. I changed my oil every 12k- 15k (I did do oil analysis to confirm safety)until I hit 200,000 miles. After that every 10k, now I’m at 254,700. The car needs some work but nothing on the engine. It fires right up and runs great. If you do oil analysis for long intervals I don’t see a problem with longer OCI.

[@QuangPham-hm7fm]

Yes you are I changed every 10k and my two older vehicles have lasted 250k and over 300k

[@jaynikk758]

I do 4k miles OCI's on my 04 Jaguar XJR with Liqui Moly Hi Tec (good for 25k miles but...LOL) 😂 she seems to be putting out every ounce of the factory 400 lb ft torque ❤ take care of your car and she will take care of you 😁

[@rhanemann9100]

Good for you for keeping that E46 in such good shape. My first brand new car was a 2000 328Ci that I opted for European delivery on. I drove it for 13 years before buying an X3. That E46 was a GREAT car and probably the last the great BMWs.

[@RickO.-vq8oh]

Chemist here: You should send a control - that is a sample of unused portion of the same oil handled the same way. Also, take a sample of your oil and add known amounts of these elements (i.e. Ca, Fe, etc.) so you can blindly test the laboratories accuracy (this is called a Spiked Sample).

[@mrlino5261]

thanks!

[@dybusmariusz]

Exactly! Especially without informing them of every detail. It's all fake and expected analysis.

[@EndlessMoneyPits]

It's fake! Lol

[@yacubahmed]

Excellent, one can not conclude without control.

[@Titan500J]

I have 17 Jeep Grand Cherokee 3.6 L V6. Because I live in an area that is over 100° (sometimes towing a small RV) in the summer and below 0° in the winter. I stick to 5000 to 6000 mile oil change intervals. Thanks for the video!

[@GoemonIshikawa13]

Consider to evaluate the highest allowed grade sccording to the user manual, I mean preferring 20W-40 to 20W-30. Living in hot environment really stresses oil molecules.

[@pg41226]

Thanks for adding the values in km’s and € as well :)

[@EndlessMoneyPits]

You're welcome! Just trying to make things clear for as many people as possible.

[@Billhampton254]

It is amazing that the one's who know less are the one who will put out information which they are in the dark about.

[@XxTournaquetxX]

I change my RAM's oil every 7,000 miles. Never had an issue and I'm glad your data was shown to be in my favor. 👍

[@DinoM123]

Very interesting! I agree with this in general but looking at engine oil analysis almost every day I have noticed something I don’t like, even during the short intervals. There is lots of copper present which is usual for M52 and M54 engines. I see this on oil samples of M52/54 engines regularly. The copper value is even higher than iron and there is already lead from the bearings visible! In my experience, these engines can use a slightly higher viscosity oil. A 5W-40 with a higher HTHS-Value can make life easier for the bearings. Personally I tend to recommend oils with an HTHS of 4.0-4.5 mPas for these engines in 5W-40 or 0W-40 viscosity at an interval of up to 6,000 miles / 10,000 km depending on driving conditions. According to these analysis a longer interval of up to 7500 miles should be fine for you. Impressive mileage though, the engine seems to be quite healthy in general, which is no surprise. You don’t seem to drive short distances on a cold engine, that’s usually the main problem for these engines. I hope this can help you :) Kind regards from Germany!

[@Rekt-M8-v4]

Yes you are right, these engines love 5w40 or 0w40 oils, 5w30 is just a bit too thin, especially if you drive your car hard.

[@anthonycolbourne4206]

@@Rekt-M8-v4 Agree 100% Lighter oils recommended by the manufacturer are for optimum fuel mileage, not engine lifespan.

[@rosewood1]

I try to change my vehicles oil every 7000 kilometres. Why? Well modern engines are made to much finer tolerances than in the past. Bearing clearances are much tighter. The oils used are consequently much lighter and often very specific. Any contamination will quickly cause problems. The engines are in far less resilient than old engines with heavier oils. Result their are many modern highly complex quality engines e.g. Toyota Landcruiser 200 that fail very early requiring replacement. Oil is cheap filters are cheap air filters are cheap.

[@vicent436]

@@rosewood1 it is not tolerance but clearance. Clearance in engines are just the same for the last 90 years. Lubticants have changed, that is all. Is lower viscosity better? Not at all. Can an engine run at lower viscosity when a low viscosity lubricant is stable ? Yes.

[@leiflillandt1488]

As I also is from Europe, actually Sweden, I hope you can shed some light on my "problem". I have bought a 2011 F25/X3 30d 190 kW, with 246,000 km. Till now the oil has been changed quite exactly at every 30,000 km! Now I have changed oil, so the last interval was only 18,000 km. This time I put in 5W-30, but would 5W-40 have been "much" better at this mileage? I don't drive much, but maybe I can save some parts of the engine. I know, there are other much bigger problems regarding diesel engines... 🥺

[@hungrymynd5673]

After all my research, I have settled on 10,000km interval with full synthetic. I have also adjusted the intervals to match multiple of 10s on odometer, easy to remember. My next change is at 240,000km 😊

[@lauretiu]

I'm with you on this one! 10k is my go to for changing oil in my audi's too! liqui moly the more expensive version of it not the green one but the dark blue one with the german lq................ writing on it, and it quiets my engine down slows down my oil consumption(too lazy to swap my pcv valve on my 3.0t engine to lower the oil consumption in these engines) and I'm a happy camper for over 12 13y with no engine issues(and i'm a maniac the way i drive and the 450hp i have at my foot pedal)

[@pavel9652]

You can do once a year when you do average distances, circa 12k km a year. Mechanic who did last service in my diesel Mazda put next service in 11k miles, which is 17k km or in one year. It seems 17k km is average mileage in my country, which is suspicious. I would do it quicker, but won't make the milage, so will do it in 12 months.

[@ashc3765]

10k is the sweet spot imo. Engine oil looks absolutely cooked by 15k which is the most common oem service interval these days.

[@butWhyDad]

Every engine is very different my friend. Do an oil analysis of your own at 5k then 7.5k miles then if it looks good 10k

[@TechieTard]

10Km is a reasonable oil change interval IMO IF it's FULL synthetic.

[@jernigan007]

I have a 2012 VW GTI w/ 69k miles. YES you read that correctly. Still almost daily driven, i just never go too far! I used that same Castrol Edge till factory warranty ran out. Good oil, easy on the wallet. 7500 was my interval, Mann filter every time. She now gets full synth LiquiMoly, since I've tuned & modded the car.

[@MacB369]

I have a 2009 A4 3.2 with 75k… yOu ReAd ThAt RiGhT

[@psiturbo]

I have a 2011 GTi, 123k miles. Everything was awesome until it reached around 105k. Have you done compression tests? Vacuum readings? Have you checked the timing chain slack? Did you check if it has the revised timing chain tensioner? Walnut blasting the valves? DSG servicing?

[@Brandon-uy1uv]

I have a 1991 Nissan Maxima with 130k miles 😂 I work from home, but when I drive, I floor it. I change the oil every 9 months with regular conventional 5w30 and whatever cheapo filter combo they give me at autozone for $25 including oil. I hardly put any miles haha, more just so the oil does not go acidic. I also add half a bottle of Lucas high mileage oil stabilizer for the oil leaks because even if I pay, these mechanics are dumb and will probably destroy the car trying to change the oil seals and gaskets. It's like they all forgot how to work on old cars. Transmission fluid every 3 to 4 years with Valvoline maxlife atf. Never changed the filter because it's not serviceable

[@psiturbo]

@@Brandon-uy1uv Is it a 3.0 or 3.5 engine?

[@Brandon-uy1uv]

@@psiturbo engine is the vg30e 3.0 v6 engine, 4 speed auto transmission

[@protechno5778]

(part 1 and 2) excellent videos and well taught study. On older japanese cars (1989 and 2001) I used to do the non-synthetic oil changes every 8000-11000km, all my 4 engines (including 3 turbo engines) did not have any issues and made it to 300 000+km being red lined intelligently everyday.

[@EndlessMoneyPits]

That's awesome, I don't think we can expect that from many modern cars. Thanks for watching!

[@TrungNguyen-zl6hd]

It’s the same with an 1985 toyota mr2 i used to drive. It reached 325 k miles,and losing very little oil.Gave the car to a friend,and it’s still running good(340k).

[@spoiler9112]

What meant by red lining intelligently?

[@protechno5778]

@@spoiler9112 To me it means : when engine is hot only, not non stop, and no downshifting braking (I dont mind changing brake pads/rotors) and also allow complete cooldown before shutdown, either way, that served me well with my engines and transmissions

[@ChuckHickl]

@@spoiler9112 as in not bouncing it off the box at idle, in an unloaded condition, just to impress your boys.

[@davidyummus6259]

Many tests have shown that the cheaper Walmart Brand Super Tech full synthetic oil is as good & sometimes better than any other oil,... I think cheaper oil changed more often is better than high end oil taken to limits.

[@gregnixon1296]

I use the Costco store brand synthetic. It’s $4/qt. So far, no issues.

[@Ricky-eo5ym]

I fully agree with you. When you have clean oil you have a clean engine, no carbon deposits and less wear. That's my thoughts.

[@davidyummus6259]

@@Ricky-eo5ym Yep

[@ping_me1vp]

Totally agreed especially if you can do it yourself

[@olivertaylor4779]

Supermarkets buy their oil from somewhere, I would expect it comes from a fairly big name for the huge quantities needed by them.

[@Michael_Lorenson]

Excellent, thanks. I got my 1987 BMW 325e Coupe, with the M20 2.7L 'Eta' engine, up to roughly 350k miles. When I finally sold that car, it was going strong and still using about 1 quart of 20W50 oil each 1,500 miles, same as it did when I bought it at at about 200k miles. Not bad, especially considering that I was using Walmart house-brand conventional oil. I changed it every 5,000 miles. I used that car the same way as you, and I took really good care of it. I wasn't doing anything weird with the viscosity, the factory recommended that heavy oil for those engines - and it obviously worked.

[@truk5161]

Thanks for the info. I have a 07 328xi and Ive been doing 7500 mile changes regularly. Im approaching the 300k mark as well.

[@EndlessMoneyPits]

Sounds like you've been doing it right then! Keep it up

[@mattgalvis]

Was the transmission or diff fluid ever changed on your car? I have a 2008 528i at 175k and would love to get it to 250k but my worry is that trans fluid was never changed and it's too late to do it now

[@truk5161]

@@mattgalvis I didnt change trans fluid until like 225k miles....wish I would have done it sooner. Was fearful myself. Still working but do have hard shifts going into 3rd and 5th now. I have not done diff fluids but need to. Just about to roll over to 270k now.

[@boomerang6130]

Same for me.👍👍

[@duckbizniz663]

Very informative video. It does seem the 10,000 miles motor oil change interval is a little too long for this particular BMW. The 5000 miles and 7500 miles motor oil change intervals seem to be about the same, so 7500 miles interval is sufficient for this BMW. This vehicle is a BMW 3 series and this German sedan has a good reputation for reliability and performance. Plus the engine of this particular BMW is not loosing motor oil, so it is a well-maintained engine. It does have 260,000 to 275,000 total mileage during the tests. Yet, this vehicle seems to be able to handle 7500 miles motor oil change interval. Which is amazing. Previous and current owner has done a great job maintaining the engine and the BMW 3 vehicle overall. Thank you for a great analysis.

[@EndlessMoneyPits]

Thank you! I've owned this car since 2007 and have tried to take care of it as well as possible. I love this car. Working on a 15-year e46 review video right now.

[@tardeliesmagic]

I wouldn't go further that 6,000m in any car, with good oil & cheap filter, good oil with good filter then then maybe 8,000m BUT NOT 10,000m. I've always used Magnatec with cheapish filter no more than 4,500m.

[@theondebray]

I'm still driving my 1981 classic Minivan (UK), owned from new, 187,000 miles. Problem for the old Minis is that the gearbox & engine oil is one. So I've always changed oil at 3,000 & filter at 6,000 miles. Still got full oil pressure at tickover. Recent rebuild - piston rings still within tolerances, bearings just polished, no scoring etc.. Proof of the pudding & all that.

[@emausderratsuchende5447]

Hello David....you are doing everything right, you will enjoy your BMW for a long time. Here in Germany, BMW is trying to recommend an interval of 20,000 km to the owners, which of course is complete nonsense, BMW knows very well that this means the early certain death of the engine, applies to Mercedes and Audi as well. Here we recommend an oil change every 10-15,000 km, or every 7000 km for short trips.

[@EndlessMoneyPits]

Thank you, and I completely agree. The recommended intervals for fluid changes set by BMW only make sense from a marketing standpoint and will not maximize the life of the components. They have changed their priorities significantly over the last few decades.

[@emausderratsuchende5447]

@@EndlessMoneyPits Unfortunately, it is also in Germany to convince people how important an oil change is, that the oil is the most important fluid in a combustion engine. Unfortunately, the time when premium manufacturers were serious is over.

[@ivankuzin8388]

That's because they *only* care about first owner, who typically has his BMW for 3-5 years - at that point car has something like 50-80 thousand km, if more then with correspondingly more highway driving, is fresh, looks and drives close to new and so still has good resale value. Second owner will drive it for a few more years and probably will have no problem with it, too - -> it's the third guy who will buy it, 6-8 year old, with over 200K km, who will pay the repair bill - but he is probably someone from one of Eastern EU countries, where with cheap labor and some "Good analog" parts he will fix it and sell it down the road in no time. BMW as a company has 0 concern for those guys. They know their brand image has no "reliability" in it for many years now - and that their clients, people who buy new premium cars and trade them in after few years, don't care about it anyway. Just need to make sure that design of new models allows instant recognition that this is a *new* BMW - so that nobody would confuse the guy driving it with some cheap-ass with an old model falling apart.

[@emausderratsuchende5447]

@@ivankuzin8388 In most cases you are right, although the third-party owners here are mostly people from Turkey, not only, but in the majority and that applies to all German premium brands this is no longer the case with the new models...it is a shame that the land of the first car is now gradually losing its place in the world through unbelievable arrogance on the part of the leadership.

[@ivankuzin8388]

@@emausderratsuchende5447 Something happened in the 90-s, or, rather, everybody knows what had happened, same as with (e.g.) Nokia - the leadership and power in boards of companies went from being made up of local guys with background in Engineering and Manufacturing to international MBA types with experience in Finance. "Greed is good", quarterly profits is all that matter, those types. I'd say German cars are still good, compared to any competition, as long as one remembers that longevity was not in mind during design process.

[@mvnorsel6354]

I change the oil not for the car but for my ' mental health ' win win.😅.

[@wholeNwon]

Well, if that's all it takes, you're ahead of the game. Much cheaper than meds.

[@c-teamtrading9690]

Polluting the World because of lack of education!

[@YOUARESOFT.]

mental health is a pathetic liberal term

[@_Pretender]

😂😂😂

[@Giambis]

I maintained a fleet of 70 Honda Odyssey vans and through proof of oil samples extended our oil changes out to 17,000 miles (seventeen thousand mile oil changes) with Shaefer Oil. Aside from a few major wrecks no van we ever had while I was there ever had an engine failure or engine problem. One had a lifter issue non related to oil. Another had a transmission go. All vans were purchased brand new at the same time and all were driven 400-750 miles per day, daily for several years. When I left the lowest mileage van was around 400k miles. The highest was around 550k. 3k is nothing but a myth.

[@Nichaansama]

Great video.....The lab tests really add a good perspective and credibility. Many videos out there just keep talking stuff about the topic without actual measurements, tests or analysis of any kind to back it up. Very few of them show numbers like you did. Proper way to do it, keep it up 👍🏽

[@EndlessMoneyPits]

Thank you! I really appreciate that. I just wanted to find an answer once and for all, and it only cost $90 for all 3 tests. Wish I had done it 10 years ago.

[@frankg6578]

Oil analysis alone doesn't give the complete representation of the engine internals. For that, look at the videos where the engine was actually taken apart to see the sludge, varnish, and condition of the oil control rings. kzbin.info/www/bejne/aaPUg5uue5V9rdE

[@EndlessMoneyPits]

True, but I'm not about to disassemble my engine at nearly 300k miles just to check for sludge. These tests are the next best thing and will definitely let you know if there's a problem.

[@frankg6578]

@@EndlessMoneyPits Yeah, everyone should do whatever makes them feel good. I personally go with "Your car will last longer if you change your oil sooner" and I especially like the videos where you can see inside the engine. kzbin.info/www/bejne/qqWqgopoZpyqiq8

[@Dylanesque]

I've always changed engine oil with the realisation that oil is the engine's life blood. The cleaner the oil, the healthier the engine. Oil isn't just a lubricant and I'm shocked by the number of people who think it is and don't understand why it has additives. 🥴

[@mutteringmale]

The first oil change on a new engine is the most critical. As it wears into place, that is when the most metal particles occur. I changed my oil at 1,000 miles when I bought it new. I then change about ever 6-8k miles. My oil never goes down (maybe 1/8 qt in 7k), and it's clear at 50K miles.

[@Dylanesque]

@@mutteringmale Indeed and you do right too. 3000 kilometers the manufacturer recommended before the 1st oil change in my car, but I only ran it 1500. "No, no, no" they said down at the dealership. "It's alright for another 2000 at least" "No, no, no" I said "It's my car, do you want the business or not?" Unfortunately, a serious injury has prevented me from changing my own engine oil and filter so it's down to my service agent to carry out the task on my behalf. This causes a little consternation with them because I always change it long before the manufacturer recommends it be changed. I also mark the oil filter before I hand the car over because, having once worked in the auto trade, I'm aware of the little cheats that occur, and not always changing the oil filter but charging the customer for a new one is something I'm familiar with. They ain't tried to swindle me yet.

[@mutteringmale]

@@Dylanesque Yup, I forgot the part of asking for you filter back, which is the law btw, they have to return the parts they exchanged. I tell them "I like to run analysis on my filters" so they don't feel like I'm calling them crooks, which many are not. I caught my Toyota dealership screwing me that way. Most Toyota dealerships are crooks anyway, I should never have gone there.

[@Dylanesque]

@@mutteringmale I'm presently running a 2018 Impreza but prior to this I had KIA because I liked everything about the cars - looks, comfort and drive - just not the agent/dealership. Negligent to slipshod at best. They even tried to worm their way out of a paint warranty repair *AND* after they'd crashed the car or drove another car into it when it went in to be assessed for that warranty work, denied any of their staff was responsible. Except...before I leave any car with any mechanic/agent I always make sure an employer does a 360 visual inspection. After all, if you take a courtesy car it is inspected by all parties concerned prior to it leaving the premises. However, the damage caused to the KIA was eventually repaired but by some weird made up contract to cover up the damage caused on their forecourt. Long story short, the car had been dismantled to some degree to enable repair but not reassembled correctly and the same paint issue returned within a matter of weeks. They didn't seem concerned and as the weeks rolled by without any sign the problem was going to be corrected, I decided to change the car altogether. With the Impreza I am fairly happy. I would be happier if it wasn't an automatic but, as the wife is fairly rough with a manual, I guess it's a small sacrifice.

[@brainkill7034]

Definitely some impressive information here. Personally, when I read them say “the oil filter could see some more use” I took it as though you could possibly elongate the oil change interval, not reuse it as it wouldn’t last for another entire cycle. I would have liked to have seen the results from the last analysis done with a fresh oil filter. As for the low presence of detergents and lubricity additives after the 10k mile change, I would assume a good bit of that is from the wear and heat cycling the oil goes through. It seems as though ~7.5k miles may actually be fine. This being said, I check the condition of the oil on the dipstick and usually do mine in 3-4K mile intervals depending on its color. Though my last oil change (m54 325ci ~253k miles), admittedly from me being lazy, was just over 6k miles and I was not happy with my perception of its condition. The engine ran smoother afterwards and I will personally continue to keep the 3-4K mile intervals even with this newfound knowledge you’ve shared with us. That being said, I thoroughly respect and enjoyed the response that the company gave you, and I will be taking a sample from my m50b25tu e34 and sending it to them for analysis. Excellent professionalism and customer service is earning them some more business by “word of mouth” reputation. I hope they give you a free analysis for your next cycle for the additional business and good PR you’ve given them from your own due diligence and good nature of sharing. Thank you and I hope you get many more years of fantastic service out of your world class in-line six BMW! P.S. I don’t redline mine daily, but they both pull to redline without complaint when I do ask it of them. Absolutely impressive machines!

[@JohnBoulding]

I have no experience with BMW but I am a long-time Mazda person. I've always gone 7500 mi on oil changes and used quality synthetic oil and OEM filters. Just recently bought a new mazda3 with skyactiv GDI engine my first GDI. From what other Mazda enthusiast tell me I should not go beyond 5000 miles on my oil changes on this engine because of carbon build up. But I'm firm believer in the Italian tune-up which means revving up to near or at redline occasionally to burn off carbon. I think if you're running to redline everyday in that BMW, you must be doing something right to achieve that mileage and have that oil analysis result.

[@EndlessMoneyPits]

I agree, a good motor should be able to handle going to the redline. I don't do it until the car is fully warmed up from 30-45 minutes of driving, but I do it almost every time I drive the car. I think it keeps the engine healthy. And if anything goes wrong, it will be during a redline run, not on a road trip or your morning commute to work. Thoug, I've never actually had anything go wrong during a redline run that I can think of.

[@buddyrojek9417]

I got 440,000 km out of a Mazda engine from new with 6000 mile changes. The clutch went but the engine never burned oil

[@theredscourge]

the carbon issue is actually going to affect the valves, which the Italian tune up won't do much to prevent. They actually recommend running some sort of anti-carbon GDI fuel additive through every oil change, and filling up with some type of premium fuel with the extra high concentration of detergents every so often. But you're gonna have carbon problems eventually unless it also has port injection, and you will have to get the intakes walnut-blasted every few years to clean it out.

[@JohnBoulding]

@@theredscourge Mazda sells their "deposit cleaner" which they r ccomend every 10k. It's 70 bucks a pop.

[@theredscourge]

@@JohnBoulding every oil change or every 10k sounds quite expensive, but I suppose it depends on what the long term cost is of doing it less often. If I had a GDI engine I'd probably try to get away with doing it every 2 or 3. Fortunately, I have both port and direct injection on mine.

[@christownsend7602]

I have a 2003 BMW Z4 I bought brand new. I have changed my oil and filter every 7500 miles since new with Mobile 1 full synthetic 5W-30. At 112,000 miles I pulled the valve cover to see what it looked inside. Saw no obvious wear. Everything was clean with not a sign of any sludge. Timing chains and gears didn't appear to show any wear. Think I am good to go for as long as I want to drive it. Don't drive this car hard and it is always garaged. Been a great car.

[@A-FrameWedge]

How does that equate to how long of a time on oil changes?

[@christownsend7602]

@a-framewedge it shows that with good oil, 7500 miles between oil changes works out ok. Think that's related to the subject.

[@headdown1]

Very well documented experiment! I would be curious to see another 10,000 mile sample sent to Blackstone. I drive a 2017 Cummins Ram 3500. I tow heavy half the time and run empty the other half. I have sent two samples to Blackstone Labs - once at 75,000 miles, and once at 90,000 miles. I also paid the extra 10 bucks for the test for remaining oil additives. My report was so good that Blackstone recommended that I extend the interval to 17,000 miles and test again. Because I have to change the oil filter and two fuel filters at 15,000 miles anyway, I will not go over the 15,000 mile mark on the oil either. But the Blackstone reports sure set my mind at ease. It looks like 15,000 miles is not too long of an oil change interval on the Cummins 6.7.

[@mweskamppp]

I would say it depends very much on your environment. In a hot dusty desert area you want to change more often. Also the oil type is different between hot desert or cold arctic temperatures.

[@fatmanchew909]

Also don't forget that cold wet climates can introduce excess moisture into the oil that can mess with lubrication.

[@mweskamppp]

@@fatmanchew909 Never heard about that. As soon as the oil got warm i expect the moist to evaporate. Oil thinning by diesel on the other hand is a well known problem.

[@WeighedWilson]

Where/how do you think dust is getting into your oil?

[@mweskamppp]

@@WeighedWilson It is passing through the air filter and then passing by the piston rings into the oil. Same way you get a diesel thinning of your oil with lots of short distance driving.

[@PoorMansInvesting]

Highway/city driving are totally different too

[@thromboid]

It's reassuring that they still cap the time interval at 1 year - if the car isn't driving far enough in a year to reach the oil change distance interval, it will be doing short and/or infrequent trips. I think this is why the Severe service schedules usually mention long periods of idling: you're racking up hours on the oil but it's not accounted for by the odometer.

[@dimmacommunication]

Not only hours, cold engine hours that accumulates water and unburnt fuel. My mom's gasoline had almost 10% of gas in OIL 😨😨😨 because the new Euro 6 engines have heavy idle warm cycles that let gas go in the oil sump.

[@EndlessMoneyPits]

I think BMW says 2 years is okay on oil that meets the LL/01 requirement, but 1 year is the general rule because oil absorbs moisture over time.

[@dimmacommunication]

@@EndlessMoneyPits Yeah but I need to change oil every 4 months in my mom's car cause the Euro6 + GDI dilutes the oil heavily, it's a chore.

[@PalpatinesPlumber]

@@dimmacommunication You just need to let it warm up properly so the gas will evaporate just like the moisture

[@dimmacommunication]

@@PalpatinesPlumber It does warm up perfectly actually , it's just that GDI probably is the cause 😥

[@tyellard9301]

I’m convinced that manufacturers spec longer oil change intervals because they know the engines will still most likely last the entirety of the drivetrain warranty but fail more prematurely when compared a lower oil change interval. My $.02: changing your oil more frequently is much cheaper than replacing an engine and the consequential losses incurred from engine failure.

[@techforever1970]

I giggled at the "kilometerage" part. Lol. Great video and thanks for all the info! Cheers.

[@EndlessMoneyPits]

Lol, I crack me up. Thanks for watching!

[@Re_Kitty]

its technically correct lol, mileage in spain is "kilometraje" and "kilométrage" in french, and english has some influence from both, so that is how you ought to say it lol

[@glamdring0007]

I've done this same test using the same lab with my 2014 Mazda CX-5. I run Pennzoil Ultra Platinum 0w-20 and the lab has reported the oil is still plenty good at the 7.5k mile mark, which is about what I average per year in driving. The lab did say the Pennzoil Ultra Plat tests show it was more than capable of a 10k oil change interval in my Mazda. YMMV.

[@EndlessMoneyPits]

I just replaced the oil with Castrol Edge Euro formula which is supposed to be good for 15k miles. I will probably send in a sample at 10k first and see how it looks.

[@ИванДунин-т7и]

Just fill in pure water 🤣🤣🤣

[@dragospahontu]

​@@EndlessMoneyPitsis it still good at 10k?

[@EndlessMoneyPits]

We will see...

[@DespinoiuEduard]

Thank you for sharing it, sir.

[@richardmorse5307]

I do my oil changes at 4000-5000 Km (about half that recommended by the manufacturer) in my 1998 Honda Accord V6 and 2002 CR V. I use synthetic oil and Honda oil filters. Never had any engine issues. The CR V uses maybe 500 mL between oil changes. No rattles on start up cold or hot with either. I think I’ll continue if anything I could I decrease the frequency but won’t. It’s still cheap insurance.🎉

[@ubeuonly]

Your wasting time and money

[@brianh5909]

Seen this beaut around town! 275k is impressive indeed. I've got a '99 328i with the same excellent M52TU. Read many threads on oil changes but can't recall a single one on this engine. I run Mobil1 0w-40 @ 10k intervals. After watching, I'll reduce to 7.5k and set the car's change interval to reflect. Thanks for the excellent analysis on this. Earns my vote for Jan '23 ride of the month 😉

[@EndlessMoneyPits]

Hey there, small world! Yes, these engines are great and definitely worth taking care of. It's already been 15 years and I plan to keep my 328i as long as possible. 7.5k seems like the ideal interval if you drive regularly. I hardly ever drive now that I'm doing KZbin full time so I'll be changing the oil once a year instead. I'll be doing an oil change video using a vacuum pump though the dipstick pretty soon. Thanks for watching and feel free to say hi if you ever bump into me.

[@Doc1855]

I have our oil changed every 4K miles (every 6 months on our pickup which is about 1K miles). I also change the front and rear differential, transfer case and transmission flush every 30K miles. The radiator is back flushed and new antifreeze is installed every 3 years. New belts and hoses every 50K miles.

[@MrQuay03]

Damn, i only change oil every 6k miles. Do nothing on others, engine last 230k miles, to the junk yard, it went

[@Doc1855]

@@MrQuay03 230K miles? Because of the maintenance that I do on my vehicles, I can easily get 350K to 500K miles out of them.

[@MrQuay03]

@@Doc1855 yeah, i know. But i only drive 10k miles per year. 500k miles would be 50 years of driving, that's like owning 1 car for my whole life.

[@bosephusjr]

Great video.. thanks for posting your results. I usually do oil changes every 5,000 miles (8,000 km).

[@lindsaydempsey5683]

Great video, thanks for sharing. For me oil and filter changes are cheap, engines are expensive, I so will continue with changing both at 10,000 km (6,200 miles) and using full synthetic (but I will run longer than 1 year). This approach certainly isn't optimal, but it is a safe 'no regrets' strategy IMO. That said, it's great to be able to compare your results, so thanks again for that.

[@johnwhite2576]

Oil changes are not ‘cheap’ in major coastal areas of the USA. for a certified independent mechanic at least $100, at dealers $150.

[@gioelegatti4558]

Always did my oil changes at 15.000km, then I bought my dream car, an MK5 R32 and started to do 10.000Km oil changes. I think this is the best service interval for daily use.

[@adrianturi4433]

if the car running mostly in the city, the engine is running more, but the mileage is very low, so, that means 15.000km in the city means more than about 20.000km outside, that's too much, so, if the car running only in the city, 10.000k is a better value.

[@gioelegatti4558]

@@adrianturi4433 that's for sure, my car only gets driven in mountains or highway, I left big cities life many years ago :)

[@tardeliesmagic]

@@adrianturi4433 Spto on.

[@MrCamel-mb3nd]

exactly on 15.000? WOW so you stop on motorway and change oil exactly when it reach 15.000 or 10.000??? WOOOOOOW never met a guy like this!! usually people have a word "about" but this guy soooo strict!!

[@ИванДунин-т7и]

U shud do 3-4k 🥹🥹🥹

[@AD-hr4is]

I have a 10 years old gmc truck and i changed the engine oil once a year in the fall and never had engine problems. I do about 5,000 Klm a year. I uses full synthetic dexos oil 5w30.

[@thomaspierce9458]

You have "a 10 year old truck", not a 10 years old truck.

[@oladeleayoola]

I drove a 1.6l Kia Soul 2100 miles per week for my courier job, 99.99% state highway/interstate. Spent its whole life between 55-70mph with very little exceptions, with the terrain flat as a pancake I religiously changed the oil at 5000 miles before testing the oil with the same company you used, paying the extra money for the TBN to determine if i can go longer between changes Apparently my engine was doing so good i was cleared for 15,000 mile oil changed with all the numbers being stable, just didn’t want me to push it past that just in case. I stopped testing the oil and just kept changing it at 15k. Idk if it matters that i used Royal Purple oil but the car is still running strong with 400k on the clock. I’m very glad i tested the oil, as it saved me a lot of money in oil changes

[@caezar044]

It must be the gentle highway miles. For normal city driving, probably best to change oil somewhere between 7,500 - 10,000.

[@trackpackgt877]

With modern direct-injection engines you can't really drag out the oil changes too far because the oil gets fuel deluded that being said my old 98 pickup I've taken to 20,000 miles on Amsoil and the oil was fine but it's port fuel injection. my GT i change every 2 years about 2k-4k miles it dont get driven as much. cool video i love Blackstone labs!!

[@IgorLapa]

Prius Gen 2, 345 000km now. The engine is known for oil consumption. I change oil every 6-8Tkm and have still almost no oil consumption. 2 times I added hydraulic lifter cleaning additive before the oil change for 500km. Thank you for your experience and test!

[@danspencer4235]

I was previously inclined more toward 5K change intervals. It's great to have actual data, because it turns out to be a money-saver. Driving conditions can vary, but it's good to know that longer intervals are probably not the best choice.

[@Theaverageazn247]

the reason 5k changes are best is because it give you margin of error. If you forget or things happen, an engine is far more forgiving of a 6k oil change opposed to a 8 or 11k oil change

[@butwheresthebeef]

Nice findings and good job preserving an e46 in great condition 👍️ Also 5w-30 seems to be good enough, I give synthetic 10w-40 to my e46 as it offeres better film strength and wear protection, as HTHS ~3.5 of 5w-30 is regarded to be on the edge (10W-40 HTHS ~4.4) and other benefits like higher oil pressure. The benefit of faster 'engine through oiling times' at engine start of 5w oil begins at -10°C and below to make a difference compared to 10w, if you live in an area where winters are cold. Funfact: There is a reputated german engine rebuild company who declines warranty, if 0w-20 is used in a rebuilt engine, although it is within BMW specifications.

[@EndlessMoneyPits]

Thank you!

[@michalandrascik2162]

higher viscosity does not makes more oil pressure... on the other hand lowers oil flow

[@ThisOldMan-ya472]

A remanufactured engine is not on par with a new engine, so using 0W20 will not have the same protection properties. In my 2022 engine, I have immediately switched to 5W30 full synthetic for 'severe service' use with the turbo. I need data to prove the 0w20 is appropriately effective. 0W30 is promoted to achieve better fuel economy, however, I am more interested in long term service, than short term fuel savings.

[@ivonakis]

Great vid. I give my 325 a 5w40. And changed it on 10000km based on common knowledge. It is nice to have it backed up. (5w30 was loosing oil quite a lot)

[@taz4100]

The bearing clearances are probably looser on the rebuilt engines they sell. Outside of ambient temp, Thats the major contributor to oil weight choice.

[@lukevirtualgameruk3523]

Got told years ago changing fluid regular will keep your Engine alive and I definitely agree

[@foesfly3047]

Thank you for sharing this experience. FWIW I see no reason to ever omit a filter change when changing oil. It’s inexpensive and adds minimal additional effort to the project. My ten cents.

[@sandybarbee8401]

ANYTHING BUT F R A M !!!!

[@mefobills279]

​@sandybarbee8401 I change oil at 3K and filter at 6K. The filter doesn't load up. Use high quality filter.

[@atticstattic]

@@mefobills279 Sounds like a plan...

[@Doomzdayxx]

Words of wisdom.

[@nunyabusiness896]

@@sandybarbee8401Fake news, Fram is used by millions of people without issue. You’re buying slander marketing from like 50 years ago.

[@hitechrr]

I had a 1981 BMW 320I and changed the oil at 21000 miles. I used AMSOIL and it came back good at 21000 when I had it analized. I sold the car with 187000 miles and it still looked like new inside when I checked the valve adjustment.

[@thezfunk]

I use Amsoil in a turbo Subaru since new. Oil analysis repeatedly told me I could extend changes. I got out to 7,000 miles from the factory recommended 3,000 miles. They said I could keep going past 7,000 if I wanted to but that make me nervous regardless of what the analysis says. I am pushing 120,000 miles with no issues so far.

[@standtall7646]

WOw! 3 years ago! This is a great video! Thank you. For me.., it's a huge help. I just did my oil change at 7500 interval. I used Liqui Moly Special Tech motor oil and a Man Oi filter. I have a 2000 323Ci Convertible. I used to live in Oregon. I miss the green trees, beautiful mountains and friendly people of years ago!! I'll keep this video as it's an excellent reference for me. Looking forward to any other videos you have put out! Thanks, again! Missin the Pacific Northwest. It is Beautimus!

[@EndlessMoneyPits]

Thank you. I have made a few more videos like this that might interest you. Check the pinned comment for links. Where did you move to? I recently moved to Arkansas.

[@standtall7646]

@@EndlessMoneyPits I have to keep that private for various reasons. I can tell you that I want out of here. It's a Hell Hole of Corruption. I will look for your videos. I do appreciate the videos you have aired! As a side note: I just discovered that I will have to replace my center bearing on the driveshaft. Have you covered that one? Thanks, again!

[@EndlessMoneyPits]

Ahh, California! Hahaha jk...? Nope, I've never had to do that one. Had a shop do it in 2017 when they replaced my clutch.

[@standtall7646]

@@EndlessMoneyPits 🙂 California IS an Endless Money Pit. THAT has to change back to the great state it used to be before they got stuck with their current corrupt governor. Just like America got stuck with the current socialist team. Sorry.., didn't mean to go political on you. I'm gonna look for more of your videos. How many different projects have you put on the Tube?

[@williamcrazylacyfurmage9953]

I 'm doing 67 Nova 283 oil and filter change after 4 yrs of use in about week:) I drive it like 20-25 times a yr around my area for a few miles warming it up to take the wife to store and back and some local cruising. Had it for 26 yrs now, no issues. knock on wood :P

[@EndlessMoneyPits]

Wow, cool car! I believe on those older cars the oil should be changed every 3k miles or once a year, but I'm not 100% sure. Four years is a long time... Hope everything goes well!

[@dogsense3773]

I work in a restoration shop in California,in old cars change the oil yearly if its under 2 thousand miles over 2 thousand every nine months, lots of water and gas built up with the kind of gas out there in use

[@Richard-qz8up]

I'm always amazed at the number of oil experts who seemingly appear out of nowhere with loads of free technical information when an oil thread or video pops up. You guys are amazing! Caveat Emptor: free advice/ technical information is worth exactly what you pay for it... nothing.

[@EndlessMoneyPits]

I've read every comment on this video. Everyone "knows" how long oil lasts here.

[@MercurySaturn]

Richard-qz; your comment contains no specific objective criticism just shallow remarks with nothing useful to contribute.

[@Richard-qz8up]

@MercurySaturn Thank you for your free advice, it was worthless. Thank you for proving my point.

[@paulowens2062]

Get a life

[@Richard-qz8up]

@@paulowens2062 Wow, so original! Did you think that up all on your own??? 😂

[@DanielJaegerFilms]

I have a 2011 Jetta TDI, its next oil change will be at 300,000 miles. Engine oil and filter is changed every 10k miles, fuel filter every 20k miles and DSG transmission fluid and filter every 40k miles. Haven’t had a single problem with any mechanical component that is lubricated by those fluids.

[@pachokardana6192]

The diesel engine is a low rpm engine and normally is driven on a long diatances . Hence lower wearing and longer oil change intervals. If you have a petrol and drive it like a diesel which means up to 2500 rpm and on long diatances you could also have a longer intervals for the oil change.

[@Game-The-System]

Interesting testing results. The core question is: "How often is too often?" (and the inverse). The quality of synthetic oil far exceeds that of conventional oils of just 20 to 30 years ago. In most manuals I have read, the manufacturer's recommended periodicity of oil changes depends upon driving conditions. At the same time, if your engine goes bad they get to sell you another engine...or maybe even a new vehicle. All that said, I simply can't imagine driving conditions would not warrant needing a oil change

[@TechieTard]

I rebuild engines, so let me key you in on something everyone overlooks. Just because the oil doesn't break down in 10K miles doesn't mean that you don't accumulate dirt particles in the oil over that time. You turn the oil into sand paper and the abrasion ruins the pistons, the walls, valve stems and ports. Don't keep oil in your engine longer than 5 to 6K

[@beepsarieaniIwee]

@@TechieTardthanks for this! I went in at 500 miles for the break in period on a brand new Tacoma and the looks I got was like I had boogers coming out of my nose. Now I’m at 1100 and going in this weekend for the 1000 mile break in period….Im just gonna hold my head high lol.

[@VanquishMediaDE]

I have owned my 2005 ZHP E46 330i since new, despite having almost 289,682KM (180,000 M) on the odometer she drives as great and smooth as the day I drove her off the dealership lot. I change my oil and filter every 4,800KM (3,000M), Liqui Moly Special Tech 5W-30 LL-01 and MANN filter. Other than a few sets of spark plugs, all coolant hoses replaced at 161,000KM , upper and lower pully/tensions & matching serpentine belts all is still factory! I average around 14.03 KM/L (33 MPG U.S.) Greetings from Switzerland

[@EndlessMoneyPits]

I bet your motor will last forever with that kind of care! I didn't buy mine new but I've had it since 2007 and will hold onto it as long as possible. These cars are definitely worth the effort. Thanks for the comment and hello from Oregon, USA!

[@garbo8962]

Thanks for the best oil change U Tube vidio out there. Retired and only drive 4,000 miles a year but have the synthetic oil changed every 9 to 10 months for my 7 year old SUV just as it gets close to halve a quart low on dip stick.

[@EndlessMoneyPits]

Thanks for watching!

[@xcuber123]

Very interesting video I plan to do mine once a year, which ends up at around 7.5k miles. Reassuring to hear it'll probably be good for a couple thousand miles more anyway.

[@EndlessMoneyPits]

Once a year should be fine for you unless your motor has any problems that would cause the oil to get contaminated faster. These are great motors when maintained well, it's just everything connected to them that seems to fall apart.

[@arthursmith643]

All depends on your driving conditions. Is it all highway most city or is it split. Your oil gets contaminated with fuel soot carbon and other crap. Oil is cheap. Engine are very expensive. Look up Irv Gordan and his Volvo. Over three million miles. Oil and filter changed every three thousand miles. Best oil is clean oil

[@Michael-ys5cn]

Arthur is right! If you do short trips water will contaminate your oil. Your oil fill cap will have a white film on it. Check out "Scotty Kilmer"

[@sikiew30340]

I recently changed my Chevy truck engine oil after 6 long years even the day I changed it still didn't reach 6,000 miles yet. I read from internet they recommended to replace the oil in every 6 months doesn't matter how many miles, is it true? Please advise.

[@danielleroberts8964]

I'm just impressed that an engine, driven hard for that many miles, can be in such good condition. Good job BMW!

[@std882]

I'm a weekend driver cos I take public transit to work. Therefore I drive less than 5,000 Km per year. I oil change once a year. Looking at this video, I realized it's redundant. I could have got by with just one oil change every two years. This video is very informative. I learned a lot. Thanks.

[@davidjb9199]

The 10,000 mile sample is interesting and I would guess that some of the lighter molecular weight fraction has been removed (leaks or combustion?). This would be one way to simultaneously get the flash point to drop and viscosity to increase. Running at very high temperatures may help to drive that fraction off too. My diesel uses full synthetic too and the recommended interval (7500 miles) felt too long as the oil was extreme thin and dirty. I was not able to measure surface tension (helps with lubricity) but I felt like the viscosity was just too low. Since then I have not let the interval go longer than 5000 miles. Before I retired from Chemical Engineering I worked for a company that made surfactants (dispersants) so I know a little bit about that chemistry. Basically, high temperature and oxygen will contribute to components breaking down in the oil. Thanks for sharing the results (had a couple of E39's BTW).

[@AudiophileTubes]

I've had my '03 GTI for 21 years now as my daily driver, and used LiquiMoly, changed at 6,000 to 7,500 intervals (filter too). Original chains and no engine issues after all these years! More reliable than a Toyota!

[@brwils3378]

Man no eletrical Problems, I have a 2011 GTI with 100,000 miles on it, use Mann filter and LiquiMoly also. Just have a ton of electrical problems. From bad fuse box to malfunctioning sensors and ECU’s. Cars garaged kept and not daily driven, don’t know why so many electrical issues keep poping up.

[@AudiophileTubes]

@@brwils3378 VW, and most car manufacturers, have greatly cheapened their cars and trucks over the years! They 'cut corners', and the consumer pays dearly. I am lucky in that I probably got the most reliable GTI ever with the 24v VR6 engine. No turbo, just naturally aspirated and built like a Panzer Tank! There is no way I could ever hope to find a car as well built as this Mk4 VW these days. In fact, when I went to Europe the last 2 years, I saw a ton of Mk4 VW's in Greece, Italy, Serbia, Romania, etc. EVERYWHERE, each and every day, I saw hundreds of 4th gen VW's! It's uncanny!

[@Lousha419]

I have an 04 325xi and I have always changed my oil between 3000 miles on conventional oil and 5000 on synthetic oil. I do run a little over the 5000 mile on synthetic if I don't have the money to change at that time but never go over 3000 on conventional oil. Having a clean engine is so important to the life of your motor.

[@TL-wy1nk]

I think 3k for conventional is too often. Consumer reports disassembled taxis in NYC at 60k miles, with no wear at 6k intervals, for oil changes.

[@tonychavez2083]

My wife’s Mercedes M272 3.5L V6 has had 10K+ intervals it’s entire life and now has 323K miles with zero mechanical issues- mobil1 15W50

[@lelandcarlson1668]

Thanks for the excellent video! I'm assuming your M52 has not had a turbocharger installed or other high performance tuning done, and is completely stock. That being said, engines with direct injection and turbochargers place a lot more stress on the oil and have to have oil changes more frequently with full synthetic oil highly suggested. For the Ford F150 with the twin turbo 2.7 liter v6 a 7500 mile change interval is suggested for "normal" service with 5000 miles suggested for severe duty service. I always change at 5000 miles. Almost no one qualifies for normal service if you read the fine print.

[@Jessersadler]

direct injection will not stress the motor more.

[@lelandcarlson1668]

Notice I said direct injection AND turbo charging. Direct injection engines typically run higher compression ratios than port injected engines since the fuel delivery can be timed more precisely, which avoids detonation issues. Thus, due to the higher compression ratio direct injection engines do place more stress on the engine components and the engine oil.@@Jessersadler

[@Jessersadler]

@lelandcarlson1668 Using, "with", clears the confusion, and is correct English.

[@TechieTard]

The only time your interval should be 5K miles is if you're using a fully synthetic lubricant.

[@TechieTard]

@@Jessersadler wow, an idiot that had to go out of his way to correct a completely understood comment because of an ego trip.

[@JeremyGreysmark]

I love your car, and it still seems to be in great shape!

[@EndlessMoneyPits]

Thank you. I do what I can to take care of her.

[@kendunn2218]

Your approach gives a lot of credibility to that level of engine protection. Here in Australia we mostly hear about oil change intervals of 10,000 KMs. Your research gives me some reassurance that this is enough. Thankyou.

[@piejecko]

In Germany most professionals would also recommend oil changes between 10.000 and 15.000 kilometers. I personally also prefer 10.000 km, especially after this video.

[@towkukus]

In Germany today, most car manufacturers prefer to sell another new car sooner than they used to in the past. Hence, changing oil frequently is not recommended. Bear in mind that in the past there were less cars on roads, less traffic jam conditions, and people would walk locally instead of driving to the near shop

[@stevel1451]

Also here in Australia, I run 316 Sprinters and E6 and E7 Mack’s, I change oil on both at 33K. . . . One sprinter is nearing 1 million and we get and expect we’ll over 2 million from our Mack engines. In near 45 years operating our Mack’s have never had an engine failure

[@kendunn2218]

@@stevel1451 you're obviously doing something right. I once heard an earthmoving equipment owner say "oil is cheap compared to mechanical repairs". Must be right. 👍

[@JurisKankalis]

Cool to find this video in my timeline. Have used the same oil (Castrol Edge, except for diesel engines in a bronze bottle) for abt. 5-6 years in all three family cars - BMW with the N57 (190kW), Audi with the ASB engine (171kW) and Mercedes with a 2 litre 4cyl 98kW engine (don't know the engine code). So far I've changed the oil at maximum 10 000 kms (I know I should do better) - along with the filter always - and no engine problems on the cars (all are mid-200 000 kms, strangely enough). Also - I don't think there's any downside to replacing the oil filter as often as you want - and OEM Mahle filters cost EUR 8 for the Merc and the Bimmer and abt. EUR 15 for the audi - so you're not really saving much. Also - am slowly gathering up video footage of an oil change I do with 3 types of extractors - and the "usual way" - to determine if the hands-down ease and comfort and speed and cleanliness and (well) safety of changing with an extractor pump is warranted. Thanks and greetings from Latvia.

[@dethray1000]

i have 1,235,000 miles on my c-13 cat engine in my semi truck,475 horse--only thing i have ever done is overhead at 600,000 mile and replaced one injector--it uses one gallon of oil between oil changes--i change at 10,000 miles,15-40 oil--out of maybe 15 trucks it is by far the best i have done--it was a cat factory rebuild long block--they are just going to start making this motor again for semis--awesome motor-great power to weight,great fuel mileage

[@joshtheking1772]

Based on just the data you showed, you need to run two oil intervals of 7,500 miles and compare them. On both oil changes send the filter with them and have them do a particle load test. One more thing. Have you thought about doing these tests with Shell Ultra Helix 5w-30? The filter youre are using is phenomenal, and a very good choice for BMW.

[@thangknowa3288]

Quality air filters and change intervals that take into consideration the environment and road conditions are important too, as well as replacing degrading engine coolant and thermostats to effectively provide optimal engine temps in ALL seasons. Spark plugs, fuel filters, fuel choices all play a big part in the overall picture. There is a lot more to this!

[@peterlattimore6013]

Valid points... More to the story than simple oil changes...

[@armando9293]

Could you please explain why it is important to have the optimal operating temperature in an engine in different environments or temperature fluctuations? Specifically regarding oil.

[@thangknowa3288]

Several reasons: Engine internals all perform best at optimal temps, thus the need for the thermostat. Also condensation inside the engine often winds up in the oil, and that means getting the oil above the boiling point long enough to remove it via PCV and other actions. Consider exhaust and cat converter too, short hops here and there don't get it, generally.@@armando9293

[@tracykey9227]

​@@armando9293Heat kills(degrades) everything, wether it be "excessive" heat in oil, coolant, bearings, lubricants of bearings, anything. Everything that was "engineered" to operate in an engine, was "engineered" with specific "tolerances" in order to operate "optimally"; when these tolerances are "exceeded", normally by excessive temperatures, those temperatures start to "break down" lubricants, which causes temperatures to rise in moving parts, which causes "friction", which causes heat of those moving parts, which increases the temp of the lubricant,... Its an "engineered" operation where everything needs to function and operate within they're "designed" perameters, and when they dont, you have problems; so yes, proper maintenance and "preventative" maintenance is mandatory for the longevity of the engine as a whole. Hope that helps.

[@andymike6575]

We run Amsoil 0w-16 full synth in our 2022 Lexus hybrid. Sent in an oil sample with 12k miles on it and Blackstone’s analysis proved it had less wear metal and contaminants than universal averages for oil with only 6k miles on it. Viscosity was on point, additives and detergents were much higher than average, and plenty of TBN left. We recently switched to Amsoil’s new line of 0W-16 made specifically for hybrids and will change it in 15k mi intervals from now on

[@michaelvadney5803]

Remember that different engine designs treat the engine oil differently. Also, temperature and standard traffic conditions matter too. Your car seems to be very happy with its life. Thanks for the video!

[@coyoteslugger3936]

I agree. If your engine has turbos, the oil frequency should be greater than an NA engine.

[@yumyumbaboon]

We’ve been running a small Ford Diesel from 6000 mi to currently 280000. Ford Recommended oil/filter changes are at 12500m but we’ve been changing at roughly half of that as per Haynes Manuals recommendation and the engine runs great with no significant oil consumption.👍

[@thepuma2012]

although you make it consume 4 liters per 6000 km this way....

[@skythundersky1544]

@@thepuma2012How so

[@thepuma2012]

@@skythundersky1544 the (early) oil change .... never mind, i was kind of joking

[@JDye-youtube]

Your “Just keep throwing money at it” comment is actually very accurate. It’s almost always cheaper to fix the one you have than to go out and buy a new one.

[@EndlessMoneyPits]

Yep, especially with everything being so expensive these days. But I recently heard that used car parts are going up in price because many people are now choosing to fix their cars instead of buying new cars. Something has to change.

[@JDye-youtube]

@@EndlessMoneyPits Invest in Toyota. When it was time for my sons to get cars, I told them you can have any car you want as long as it’s a 4Runner lol. I own 3 4Runners right now, had 4 until my youngest totaled his.

[@OttoMatieque]

good info - I might try something like this on my new 3.5L ford ecoboost engine. The pickup is a daily driver, but the majority of milage comes from road trips and pulling a small camper. I think the experiment would be even better if you pulled the samples from the same oil (not after changes). There are little vacuum pumps that can suck oil from the dipstick tube and deposit it directly in the oil sample cup. Pulling a sample from the same oil cycle at progressing mileages would eliminate some variables like differences from jug to jug of oil or filters.

[@EndlessMoneyPits]

I've gotten some great suggestions for redoing this test in a more official way and am thinking I will do it again on a different car soon. I'm not driving much these days but I change the oil for someone who does. Thanks for the ideas and good luck with your tests too!

[@benbernank1341]

That twin turbo 3.5 NEEDS regular oil changes. I did 10k oil changes and still had oil problems with that engine by 100,000 miles. And failed by 225,000. That’s was in my transit van in NJ, your results may vary

[@OttoMatieque]

@@benbernank1341 yeah, FordTechMakuloco has a couple of videos about how the Ecoboost engines do not do well with the extended mileage oil changes recommended by Ford and the vehicle computer. The high-performance engines have more blowby which puts a lot more soot (abrasive) in the oil. I plan on doing oil changes around 5k miles. I do my own oil changes, so the cost shouldn't be too much of a factor.

[@adotintheshark4848]

On that one I would never go more than 5k miles on an oil change.

[@OttoMatieque]

@@adotintheshark4848 agree

[@LA_Commander]

Great video. Although it would have been great to include the TBN (total base number) for each oil sample. This value shows how much life is left in the oil. If the additive package is still working. But what we were able to glean from your samples was that the 10k mile oil was no longer able to do its job. The 5k and 7.5k samples were still ok to protect your engine.

[@EndlessMoneyPits]

Well, I included all the data they sent me. I agree, 10k miles is too long unless perhaps it's almost exclusively highway miles. One thing I didn't mention is that until the first oil sample was collected, I had been changing the oil with a vacuum pump instead of draining it from the pan. I think this may have caused a high reading for some contaminates in the first (10k) sample. I would do another 10k sample but I work from home now and hardly drive the car, so it would literally take 5 or 6 years to hit 10k at the current pace.

[@Bizmyurt]

​@@EndlessMoneyPitsstart working away then! 😊

[@EndlessMoneyPits]

I changed the oil again yesterday and replaced it with the more expensive Castrol LL-01 euro formula. Planning to do some comparisons to the tests in this video.

[@leiflillandt1488]

​@@EndlessMoneyPitsSo you mean you save our environment! Sounds even better than buying 2,000 kg EV... 😉

[@ChristopherForand]

@@EndlessMoneyPits this seems to be a really important point. I pretty firmly believe that your 10,000 mi reading is bad as Blackstone themselves have basically told you to try 9-10k again.

[@rabmc]

I’ve had an e46 m3 for 10yrs and always do mine yearly Castrol 10-60 and 2/3k miles max, it is totally over the top and I am aware of that but she is still going strong.

[@EndlessMoneyPits]

I would probably do the same if I had an e46 M3.

[@jamescherney5874]

Nice to see some scientific evaluation of the oil on the same vehicle driven the same way. The 5-7 k interval seems to be the way to go. My Land Rover manual says 15k between changes but I do it every 5. Too expensive to replace or repair an engine.

[@rabokarabekian409]

Science yields falsifiable conclusions. This is merely calibrated measurement.

[@veowsaku]

Old Filter is doing its job better at filtering because the passage are getting smaller but the pressure drop will increased so the pump will work a little harder. 7500 mile with a new filter will allow you to see if double intervals filter is better than single interval. The magic number may be using 20k miles rated filter with two 7.5k miles oil change interval.

[@EndlessMoneyPits]

Makes sense to me. If I send in another sample I might try that combo. Who makes a filter rated for 20k miles?

[@veowsaku]

@@EndlessMoneyPits Castrol CAS series Purolator Boss series Fram Titanium series

[@rival989]

Mobile 1

[@bcubed72]

...but if the pressure drop gets too big, you'll trip the bypass and be running effectively without a filter.

[@PinkFZeppelin]

@@bcubed72 The high mileage filters have a higher flow rate and synthetic media which prevents this from happening in a meaningful way. There are some tests online for exactly what youre talking about. They setup a sensor to monitor the bypass valve. For people like us, that care for their cars, it’s not really an issue. Especially if you’re replacing the oil halfway.

[@tundramanq]

All my running is in town so I follow my owners guide. 5K miles or 6 months, whichever occurs first. Short runs are very hard on the oil.

[@Jay_Dahl]

I think the biggest problem with extended oil changes is that a lot of car owners think that means you don't have to lift up the hood between oil changes. Of course nothing could be further from the truth. A lot of modern engines naturally consume significant amounts of oil because they were designed with looser fitting piston rings to reduce friction and save gas. Your BMW may not consume much oil, but a lot of cars would be almost bone dry after 10,000 miles without periodically topping off the oil.

[@EndlessMoneyPits]

I've heard that some new BMWs don't even have an oil dipstick that you can check. They just rely on sensors. I will never own a car like that.

[@Jay_Dahl]

@@EndlessMoneyPits Thats true, some European luxury cars don't have a dipstick, and some quick lube places are prohibited from changing the oil on such cars because they can't quickly double check the oil level after an oil change. I've also seen some Audis that will even tell you when it's time to throw another quart of oil in there. This drives some little old lady Audi owners nuts.

[@blazbohinc4964]

If oil has twice the dirt inside at 10k miles compared to 5k miles, it means that oil is doing its job just as good at 10k miles. But, since there's more dirt in it at 10k, it's more abrasive on engine components. Oil isn't going bad, it's just getting dirty. Means it's good oil.

[@Mike80528]

If the "dirt" is smaller than tolerances and properly suspended it is not really abrasive; at least not any more than normal operation would be. The oil filter is a critical component.

[@EndlessMoneyPits]

That's a really good point.

[@mikerobinson8734]

That is correct. Oil never really goes bad, it just gets contaminated. This is why I run 3 oil filters on my Ram Cummins. 2 bypass oil filters and the factory oil filter. They claim you can run the car indefinitely on one oil change if you can keep the contaminants out of it. With my filtration system I can safely go 25k miles but I choose to change the oil @15k and filters every 30k miles.

[@Mike80528]

@@mikerobinson8734 So you are one of them idjuts who filter your oil? Why do you think they have them fancy *bypass* valves? Because the actual *filter* ain't important! Dirt don't matter!

[@everyhandletaken]

@@mikerobinson8734that’s an interesting setup, nice.. if only additional filters was normal, imagine how much could be saved on purchasing oil as frequently across millions of cars (plus, help the planet etc) Filters, cheap Oil, insanely expensive

[@herrbrahms]

I appreciate the rigorous information delivered succinctly, without annoying poseur music common to BMW videos.

[@brentsnocomgaming7813]

In a real E46, you will effectively change the oil every 3000 miles anyway, b/c you will leak out a quart ever 500, so you can treat it as a total loss oiling system. The real interval to worry about is the oil filter.

[@heisenfeis]

That is why they mount the oil filter at the top of the engine. It is cheap and easy to replace and takes about the same time as filling washer fluid.

[@ThisOldMan-ya472]

That assumption is incorrect. Adding a quart of oil five times, does not equal a total loss oiling system. Adding new oil only dilutes the existing contaminated oil, so 100% of the contaminated oil is never removed. Send in a sample of your oil for testing, and you will have a truthful answer.

[@idontgotnothin]

A “real” E46? Someones a hater.

[@magicoddeffect]

Just change your gaskets for Viton ones instead of OEM and you'll no longer be leaking so much oil.

[@imadude85]

​@@magicoddeffectits not the gasket. Its the kow tension single oil control rings in the M54 instead of the traditional 3 piece ring in the M52/M52TU. When the single ring wears over time, a significant gap is present, allowing oils to pass through. In a 3 piece design, the gaps are closed by the other rings.

[@100brsta]

I had a 3.0 tdi, did 30k km (18k miles) change, no issues until 160k miles until I sold it 5 years ago. The new owner tuned it to 350hp and still going strong without problem. The trick - the car was nearly never driven less than 50 miles in one drive. Long drives at operating temperature do not nearly as much contaminate oil as many short drives.

[@alwayslearningthefacts5881]

Finding this interesting. In I have a 255k mile n52 530xi. My local bmw dealer told me 10 years ago, when I bought the car. Change the oil at 1/2 of the recommended interval. So 7500 miles. Best advice ever. mostly interstate 40 miles to work

[@gk5891]

Are you sure that's the correct oil? That looks like 5W-30 US which is a < 3.5 HTHS Oil. BMW requires over 3.5 HTHS to provide minimum operational viscosity at higher oil temps and loads. It also doesn't meet the correct requirements for the factory service interval. The correct Castrol is 5W-30 A3/B4 which is available at most Walmarts for a similar price. It is > 3.5 HTHS and LL-01 rated.

[@EndlessMoneyPits]

Oh wow, you're right! I had only read that BMW recommends Castrol 5w-30 or comparable oils that carry the LL-01 rating, but the type I am using in the video does not have the LL-01 rating. Looking at my Amazon purchase history, I did use the correct oil in 2017 and 2018, but I bought the 5w-30 US the last couple of times. I bet I could get more mileage out of the A3/B4 version. I will use that at my next oil change and then send it in for analysis at 10k miles to see what the differences are. With that said, I am surprised at how well the 5w-30 US performed in these tests. Thanks so much for bringing this to my attention. I am always trying to learn more, and I am by no means an expert.

[@gk5891]

@@EndlessMoneyPits HTHS isn't that likely to have caused an issue. You don't see oil temps associated with long 250 kmh Autobahn runs. LL01 rated oils usually hold better to extended drain. That A3/B4 is going start out a good bit higher viscosity (12+ cSt @ 100C) so don't be surprised if it comes back higher than your used to.

[@davidmorgan345]

It's the highest spec oil you can buy in USA. We have LL04 over here which is even better.

[@chrisgermann6658]

6/7k intervals for most engines should be fine. Older/higher performing engines might be a good idea to go for around 5/6k.

[@TechTusiast]

Old engines were not as picky as modern ones. I had a japanese car from 1980-something and a german one from 1990-something. Small inline-4 engines. Drove 10k miles or more per year. Changed oils once a year. Short trips. Half the year is winter at sub zero temperatures. Both cars did 180k miles and engines were never a problem. With a more modern cars these days I tried the same and now a second car in a row has engine issues due to impurities inside with under 100k miles in. WIth the latest one I have only driven 7000 miles between oil changes, short trips. If you have an old car, those things just work. The problem are these modern things.

[@chrisgermann6658]

Agreed dont get me started on modern designs and the materials they opt to use.@@TechTusiast

[@marconi3142]

It takes me 1/2 hour and ~$25 to change my (synthetic) oil in my car. I do it every 5k miles. I couldn't care less if I "waste" $15 or so per year by not waiting until 7.5k miles. With 216k miles on my 2004 Rav4, my mechanic says it runs fantastic. That's all I needed to hear.

[@thetruth7633]

Depends on the type of drives. My standpoint (in KM) : Many long drives up to 500km /day : max 15K or 6 months Normal drives, occasional long drive : max 10K or 6 months Many short drives : max 7.5K or 6 months Track : after racing session / day/weekend

[@pistonslapuk]

My bmw 545i has always had oil changes every 5/6000 miles and also gets redlined a few times a week. I’ve often found regular oil changes at this interval to prolong any vehicle I’ve owned

[@DragonPilot]

I've been in the 5000 mile oil/filter change camp for many years. Never had a problem. Except for towing a small camping trailer a few thousand miles each year, my vehicles are run easy...no red-lining!

[@mech-E]

Based on my understanding the thing that breaks down the oil more is high heat and heat cycling. This can be caused from high engine stress.

[@robertmaybeth3434]

But the problem is, oil thermal break-down is just the tip of the iceberg of waste byproducts that get into your engine oil. You probably already know all this but I'll say it for the benefit of others who might not! The oil begins to oxidize as soon as you pour it in the engine; and of course the oil has anti-oxidation additives to help prevent that. But they too are among several additives the refinery blends into the oil, that eventually break down. Then there's dirt caused by fuel combustion; some of which makes it past the piston rings into the oil too. The combustion process also creates water, a lot of it. And though most of that water just evaporates from engine heat and passes out your exhaust, some of it inevitably gets in the oil anyway. That is unless the car gets driven on a lot of short trips when the engine doesn't warm up enough. Then the oil and water might combine and form sludge in the oil. The oil filter catches most of this filth, of course, but it can't possibly catch everything (more of which is created on every drive). So because of all this happening to the oil, that's why I tend to change oil too early. I worked for a government fleet for 30 years, fixed everything from lawnmowers to diesel generators, and torn apart plenty of automotive engines too. And the difference in wear, especially of oil-sensitive parts like the timing chain, the camshaft, the rings and bearings, is usually obvious between engines that had their oil changed often enough and those that didn't. And on neglected engines the wear is easy to see. The timing chain (if used) shows wear dramatically: the tensioner is worn thin, the camshaft gears are ridged, and the chain not only has teeth marks but also often has a "bow" when held up and it has visibly stretched compared to the replacement part. I once knew someone who often forgot to change the oil in her Toyota minivan. That engine eventually sludged up so badly the shop had to pull the oil pan and valve covers to clean it all out, and afterwards the engine used a quart of oil every thousand miles - all of which was totally avoidable just by changing the oil 4 times a year. Anyway it makes sense to me to just change oil more often. And as to when to do it, I go by the car maker's severe service intervals. Because it seems to me the way I and everybody I know drives, easily qualifies as "severe service" anyway.

[@TheSchnitzelable]

Since the engine was not flushed I'd say the last sample was that good thanks to the previous more frequent changes so I'd stick to a 5-6k max 7-7500mi I change the oil in my car tdi vw every 10k km it has 620 000km and runs very nicely according to other owners of the same car

[@ceirwan]

Great video, thanks, interesting results. And the BMW M50 2.8 is an absolute tank of an engine, my old housemate used to have one, and I kid you not, within 30 seconds of leaving the drive, he was bouncing it off the rev limiter. Winter, summer, it didn't matter, it got thrashed, that thing was still running perfectly at 200k when it was scrapped due to rusting to pieces. On top of that, the engine oil got changed 'whenever he felt like it' which usually meant every 15-20k miles!