Are Your Working with a Pants Pattern that has a Back Crotch Extension that's Way Too Short?

Today on Fit Tip Tuesday I'm talking about the length of the back crotch extension... on Pants Patterns. I'm helping one of my pants fitting students work on a non-stretch pants pattern that is not one of mine. When I looked at the pieces, I compared the measurements of the front & back crotch extensions. I was pretty surprised to find out that the front crotch extension was almost 2" long and the back extension was 2 1/4" long... only 1/4" longer than the front! She shared photos of how the pattern fit after she cut out her first muslin. I'lll explain why a back crotch extension should be significantly longer than the front in most cases. Plus, I'm sharing a photo of how this muslin fits ... and how to fix it!
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[@sarawelder1]

You did an amazing job of simplifying a complex issue in a way that I could understand. Thank you!

[@JSternDesigns]

I'm so happy to hear that!! Thanks for fitting along with me

[@user-ro2oh2gi1l]

Your in person 3 day pant fitting class was so helpful to watch you make those adjustments live and see the results.

[@JSternDesigns]

Thanks so much! and thank you for joining me for the pants class. I had so much fun with you ladies!

[@1wholovestrees]

A big light bulb went on! I would have so much trouble redrawing a crotch seam extension that I gave up. I love your method as it makes perfect sense!

[@JSternDesigns]

Depending on the size and style of the top you're working on.. 2" give or take a little for non-stretch tops, 1" for stretch woven tops and 0 or negative ease for knit tops. Hope this helps.. Thanks for watching

[@J-UK62]

This vlog will be kept in my fitting library. Thank you so much x

[@JSternDesigns]

You're so welcome! Happy that this helps you, thanks for fitting along with me

[@seestellysew8472]

This is very helpful, thank you very much. I have a very prominent behind and I’m on a pants fitting journey and you’ve helped me tremendously.

[@JSternDesigns]

Glad it was helpful! Thank you for fitting along with me.

[@krob8335]

Thank you for such a clear explanation of this adjustment!!

[@JSternDesigns]

You are so welcome! Thanks for fitting along with me!

[@karennelson4108]

Thank you a million times. I have tried the TDCO and for me it didn't work. I have a funny body. I have a 47" waist and 65" hips. My torso fits a dress size 18 dress pattern comfortably but the hips??? Oh my days. I have hips enough for everyone 😅😂 I am grateful to you for this method. I am trying out a mock up but already I can see the logic and how I can amend the back leg quite well to fit me better and keep the original shape of the pattern which is the reason I bought the pattern in the first place. Thank you again.

[@JSternDesigns]

My Pleasure! The basic steps of fitting with TDCO are an amazing way to start. But TDCO has it's limitations. The idea of TDCO is to start at the top ...and work down to get the crotch in the "right" position before working out toward the side seams to fit pants. This works for almost any wide leg loose fitting pant pattern (the crotch does not touch your body). If you're working with a snug or fitted pants pattern, you can only get the crotch in the right position if the pattern's crotch shape agrees with your shape. That's why it works for some, but not others. I still use the basic steps + Adding Fit Allowances to the inseams so you can let them out and extend them if needed when you start fitting the single leg. This helps... but you may still need to change the shape of the crotch to get the the fit you're trying to achieve. Check out this tutorial that explains more kzbin.info/www/bejne/jZfPeZmPgpidmdU Hope this helps & thank you for fitting along with me

[@vickimaggs8239]

This makes so much sense, Jen. You are a magician! Thank you.💖

[@JSternDesigns]

You are so welcome! Thanks you for fitting along with me

[@michaleesloan6777]

Great demonstration !

[@JSternDesigns]

Thanks so much for fitting along with me

[@ljuls8602]

This was such a clear explanation. I only wish you could show what this looks like on a person if the pants need this, to help me diagnose my wrinkles!

[@laurahovey391]

You can see that at 1:42

[@ljuls8602]

Thank you! I must have missed it!

[@JSternDesigns]

I will be sharing the results of adjusting the pattern as I work along with this pants fitting student. You can get a good idea about how long your crotch extensions need to be if you make a crotch template. (This template can't be used to trace your entire crotch shape... but you can use it to figure out your body depth and the "approximate" shape of the base of your crotch. Check out this tutorial: kzbin.infoeOKD_txES-w How this helps!

[@thinkuthink]

This made so much sense 😮❤ Thank you so much for this walk through! (Your sewing room looks awesome, btw! 🎉)

[@JSternDesigns]

Yay! Thanks so much and thank you for fitting along with me

[@susuburleson878]

Oh my goodness. I think this is my problem. I can’t wait to try it out. I was so stumped I just put it all up … I couldn’t even figure out where to turn next. I’ll let you know how it goes. Thank you!

[@JSternDesigns]

I'm so excited that this may work for you!!! Definitely keep me posted :)

[@cheryladamo4541]

Loved this video it makes perfect sense to me. I’ll use this on my daughter’s pants as well as mine!

[@JSternDesigns]

So happy to hear! Thanks for fitting along with me

[@clerydesigns729]

I love your instructions and you put so much care into them. Please answer me this one question: is what you’re describing here sometimes known as a hungry bum?

[@JSternDesigns]

:) I think "hungry bum" is a term that describes the fit of a pant muslin where the inseam is being pulled in too snug against you... So extending the crotch extensions creates more depth front to back to give that CB seam and the fabric attached to it breathing room! Hope that helps, thanks for fitting along with me

[@ZeldaSews]

This was a great video!❤

[@JSternDesigns]

Thank you!! and thanks for fitting along with me

[@user-ph1wl1op7g]

Thank you!

[@JSternDesigns]

You're welcome!

[@prbasset6371]

Great video love it.

[@JSternDesigns]

Glad you enjoyed it Thanks for fitting along with me

[@victoriahannah1633]

I know I’m going to need this and it will be so helpful. While I’m on vacation I’ve been doing a muslin version of Boot strap pants form. It looks really good. I’m thinking instead of doing the whole pattern over though to make a pattern of just one of the legs of the muslin and do it in the TopDownCenterOut method also in a muslin. Then do the real thing.

[@JSternDesigns]

:) I'm so excited to see your Boot Strap Pants Form! ... Sounds like you have a good plan, thanks for fitting along with me

[@kayphuff]

Brilliant

[@JSternDesigns]

Thank you!

[@sandybehrle166]

So show us the end result on the model. Please. Thanks.

[@JSternDesigns]

I will share the results... Thanks for fitting along with me.

[@debtaylor2387]

I have a low large belly that I am trying to fit. Would this work on the front pattern piece to allow more room please.

[@JSternDesigns]

Yes and no. Yes, you may need a longer crotch extension than the one drafted on your pants pattern, but you may not need to add as much as you think. I'm working on fitting my daughter... she has a low apron belly and I made a really long front crotch extension and I ended up taking a lot of it back off. If you work with a single leg muslin and separate fit waistband... You can add extra inseam allowance so you can let it out the front crotch as needed. Check this tutorial out: kzbin.info/www/bejne/m4u4pJWkpal2l68 How to add to the inseam is at time stamp 8:25 Thanks for fitting along with me

[@Justice-and-fruit]

Jennifer I’m very new to garment sewing. Upon making McCalls 7198 (stretch close fitting flared pant - learn to sew range) Size 6 fit well everywhere apart from my back waist was too low compared to the front. If I bent forward or walked up stairs my butt crack was close to being exposed 🫣. I wasn’t wearing them back to front. I went up two sizes and I had the same problem. I don’t know which video of your’s to watch because I don’t know what causes that problem. Is it a butt problem or, a crotch length problem or just a back waist height problem? I don’t think I have the problem in this video because my pattern does have a longer back crotch extension. I can’t find anything online for this specific problem I have other than a gaping back waist. Thank you if you reply.

[@JSternDesigns]

I went back to find a tutorial explaining why the back waistband/pants slides down in the back when you sit, bend or walk... I know I've talking about this ... but it's probably mixed in a pants video. I will do a dedicated video for this topic next week. You can lengthen the CB seam at the waistline up to your neck and it would still slide ... Basically, your pants are pulling down because you don't have enough negative space to sit down in. To fix this, the base/curved portion of the CB seam needs to be adjusted to make more room. Stay tuned and thank you for fitting along with me... I love it that you're making pants!!

[@Justice-and-fruit]

@@JSternDesigns Thanks Jennifer for your time and effort to do a vid on this problem. Adjusting the base curve is scary for a newbie 🫣. I do wonder if it was the fabric I used - rib knit, lots of horizontal stretch but no vertical give. I’m moving to a different pants pattern, hopefully it goes smoothly this time.

[@JSternDesigns]

If you're making snug knit pants, you need some vertical stretch because it's likely the crotch extensions are shorter and rely on stretch in both directions! Thanks for fitting along with me

[@Justice-and-fruit]

@@JSternDesigns After watching your latest vid on how to resolve such an issue. I think I’ve learned my problem: low butt + rib jersey with 0% vertical give = Builder’s bum 🫣. I’ve no doubt a classic newbie fail 🤔

[@junebanks4163]

Can you do this to the front ?

[@JSternDesigns]

Yes, thank you for asking this! If your back view looks like this and you think your back crotch curve is long enough... the front crotch curve may be the culprit... You can use the same technique to lengthen the front crotch curve. Thanks for fitting along with me

[@junebanks4163]

@@JSternDesigns I may have to lengthen the front and back because I have to extend crotch point 3.5 inches and I don’t want to only add that length to the back . Thanks for actually replying I was giving it a day to wait before I actually adjust lol

[@Edelweiss-vp3ic]

It would have been useful if you show what you are describing and the end result on the garment itself . 90f% of the vedio you are showing your face not the work.

[@JSternDesigns]

So sorry I didn't share the end result in this tutorial ... All the steps I worked on are visible in this video, I even took the time to color in where I spread the pieces to make it easy to follow, if you decide to give it a try, please let me know if you have any specific questions, I'm happy to help, thanks for watching

[@Edelweiss-vp3ic]

@@JSternDesigns thank you mam for your patientful reply. Im trying to adjust my pant block to get rid of baggy lines on the back. When legs are together its baggy, when legs are apart no baggy. I think what matters is getting the grainline straight and proper.