Why is Center Grainline Helpful in Pants Fitting

Today I want to talk about the Center Grainline on the back leg of a pants pattern. This is a vertical line that is centered on the leg from hem to knee that extends straight up to the waistline. (This is not the same thing as a shorter grainline positioned on the pattern piece to show you how to align the pattern piece with the straight of grain of the fabric you're cutting the pieces out of.)
If you're pants pattern does not have this guideline marked on the pattern piece, you can draw on in yourself. This vertical grainline can help you determine if the back leg is going to hang properly from your waistline and full hip. If you're making your first fit muslin using the pattern as it came out of the envelop, it's likely that there is space between the top of the grainline and the CB edge.
Sometimes making fit adjustments can tip or skew the top of the leg so the grainline is too close to the CB edge. It could also be close to the CB edge because of the way it was drafted. Why is this important? The top of this center grainline shows you how much fabric you have and how it's distributed across your back leg from waist to crotch level. Depending on your shape, you may need more or less fabric on the CB side of the grainline. Join me to find out when it's ok for the top of the center grainline to be close to the CB edge and when it should be closer to the center of the back leg. Plus, I'll show you how to adjust the pattern to balance the center grainline for your shape.
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[@onglesnailz5039]

(from Linda) I have taken years back a sewing pattern fitting classes and in one of the classes, we learned this "what you add you take off on the other side". Oddly I have been on YTube looking at many channels and this VERY important notion, so far I have not seen it. It's like someone asking for a recipe, but you never gave the obvious secret ingredient, so doomed to fail! So, basically what I am saying is finally someone as yourself is sharing the real tips, tricks and important notions helps us sewers under HOW TO.

[@JSternDesigns]

Thanks Linda! ...I love making pants and I'm on a mission to make is easier for everyone to be successful! Thanks for fitting along with me

[@ruthyoon2607]

Thanks! That's the clearest explanation I've seen anywhere.

[@JSternDesigns]

Glad it was helpful! Thank you for fitting along with me

[@sue_in_victoria]

I've started experimenting with this center balance line, and what I discovered is that my fitting woes actually stem from my inner thigh being quite padded/fleshy compared to the rest of my leg. Basically, I have no thigh gap at all. Moving the center balance line towards the crotch ended up making the inseam go down more vertically from the crotch point which gave more room for that part of my body. After literally years of trying to get the crotch shaping right and NEVER succeeding, fitting my inner thigh properly ended up being the key to pants for me.

[@JSternDesigns]

Yay!! I'm so happy to hear that you figured this out!! Making room along the inseam does shift the center balance line toward CB. Thanks for watching!

[@barbarawarner4645]

I learn something every time I watch one of your videos. Thanks so much.

[@JSternDesigns]

Glad to hear it! Thank you for fitting along with me

[@madypennisi4823]

Very interesting. Looking forward to using this information.

[@JSternDesigns]

:) Thanks so much.... Here's a part 2 of sorts! Thanks for fitting along with me kzbin.info/www/bejne/jXmUlpp5f5h9ldU

[@janicek6399]

I really appreciate this "little nugget" !

[@JSternDesigns]

Thanks! ... I'm going to expand on it next week... Thanks for fitting along with me

[@PennyCandy10]

Thank you for all your pattern fixes ! I have a pants pattern on my kitchen table right now, that after what feels like 100 mock-ups, I had redrawn this way. I haven’t sewn it yet but I now I have high hopes ! Keep up the great work ! ❤️

[@JSternDesigns]

Fingers crossed!! Thanks for fitting along with me

[@ivividly]

So clear to understand 💜

[@JSternDesigns]

Thanks for watching

[@theseamstressatthecottage]

I just love how you explain things in such easy to understand ways. Thank you for the work you do.

[@JSternDesigns]

You're very welcome! Thanks for following along with me!

[@erniejofo]

I do alot of alterations lately do to some weight loss so i haven't made new garments. Im trying to find ways to apply what I learn from your videos to that. I can then use that when I return to creating new garments. I have the patterns for several along with the fabric just waiting! Thank you so much for sharing your live of sewing 😊

[@JSternDesigns]

I do have a lot of alterations video tutorials sprinkled in with my fitting videos! ...If you need help with something specific, please let me know! Thanks for sewing along with me!

[@lornajackson5463]

Thank you for this really helpful info. It also explains why ready made pants are baggy or wrinkly at the top of back leg. Just like engineering really 😊

[@JSternDesigns]

Glad it was helpful! ...It is a little bit like engineering! Thanks for fitting along with me

[@prbasset6371]

Brilliant thank you.

[@JSternDesigns]

You're very welcome! :) Thanks so much.... Here's a part 2 of sorts! Thanks for fitting along with me kzbin.info/www/bejne/jXmUlpp5f5h9ldU

[@tanathurgaland6708]

It would help me to picture these adjustments if you could kinda wrap that flat piece around a 3 dimensional form.

[@robinr6399]

Yes, PLEASE!!!

[@JSternDesigns]

I was trying to figure out how to do that. I recently acquired a full body dress form that is a tiny size 6. I didn't have the gusto to get it up the stairs... I will do a demo to go along with this when I can get it up the stairs! Thanks for fitting along with me

[@helenv2906]

Great informations! This is giving me exactly what i need for a lot of my pants pattern. I have a slim figure with a flat bum.... most of the pants patterns now are drawn for curve bum. Thank you for sharing your knowledge with us❤

[@JSternDesigns]

My pleasure! thanks for fitting along with me

[@natdls9826]

Thank you ! I saw this adjustment in one of your other videos and tried it after reducing the rise on a pattern: shortening the rise had changed the angle and the trousers did not fit my shape. The center line is a really quick way to check that on a new pattern though !

[@JSternDesigns]

:) When I show different adjustments, I try to show what else is affected by the adjustment.. Sometimes you may also need that change... sometimes you may not. Shortening the rise at CB (by creating a pleat at CB and blending to 0 at the side seam) tips the pattern toward CB ...shifting the top of the center grainline farther away from CB. It also straightens the straight part of the CB seam. Depending on the shape of your behind, you may need a shape vs. a more angled one. I hope that helps! Thanks for fitting along with me

[@JoseMedina-xu1vs]

Por favor con subtítulos en español, gracias

[@gmurray3616]

I'm still a bit confused about "negative ease". Do you have a video that will explain ?

[@JSternDesigns]

ooooooohhhhhhhhh.... sorry about that. I might have said negative "ease" instead of negative "space". I realized I did that when I was editing this video. I must not have caught all the boo boos. I'm talking about how much space there is between the inside of the pants and your body... the negative space. I hope this helps!! Thanks for fitting along with me

[@gmurray3616]

@@JSternDesigns ok. I got you. Thank you very much. Continue sharing. I enjoy the videos loaded with helpful information. 🙂

[@lisagoodman9632]

Great tutorial! Would folding the pattern in half starting at the hem matching side seam to inseam be a way to find center back balance/ grainline?

[@JSternDesigns]

You can do that to establish the straight of grain from knee to hem... Then use a long straight edge to continue the line to the waist... Folding in in half all the way can be a little inaccurate because you don't have edges to match up at the top to fold it in half. Hope that helps! Thanks for watching

[@marryadkinson7918]

Thank you

[@JSternDesigns]

My pleasure, thanks for fitting along with me

[@leslieg7696]

This was a real eye opener. Thank you. I have been playing around with a favourite pants pattern for decades, adapting it as my shape changes. I would love to check this. What is the best way to find this grain line if it is not on the pants pattern?

[@JSternDesigns]

Oh shoot... I should have shown how to do that in the tutorial. ... Find the center of the leg at the hem. Then find the center of the leg at the knee. ...Use a long straight edge to draw a vertical line from hem to waist so that it's aligned with the center of the leg from hem to knee. Then you've marked the center of the leg at the hem... and you can see where the center of the pattern is at the waistline. Hope this helps! thanks for fitting along with me

[@sonjanordahl3158]

Thanks

[@JSternDesigns]

:) My Pleasure! Thanks for watching

[@lesliegill-brassfield207]

Should the darts be moved?

[@JSternDesigns]

Think of darts printed on the pattern pieces as "suggested" positions for those darts... Baste them in so they are easy to remove and reposition if they are not working where they are ... Hope that helps, thanks for fitting along with me

[@tammihackley4349]

What is the curved ruler you use & where do you get it?

[@JSternDesigns]

That's my clear french curve... Here's an Amazon Affiliate Link: amzn.to/4au2PkG I love it for so many reasons... Being able to see through it is very helpful when I'm smoothing edges because I can see the edge of the pattern underneath! Thanks for fitting along with me

[@tammihackley4349]

@@JSternDesigns Thanks so much!

[@brendahunter7298]

Omg- no wonder why my pants R baggy

[@JSternDesigns]

:) This is one of those "sneaky" things that can hide out in your fitting process! Thanks for watching

[@patgottshalk8808]

Is the center back grain line the same as a balance line? Is it normally the center of the leg?

[@JSternDesigns]

I think the terms "Balance Line" and Grainline" are often used interchangeably. ...Technically, I think balance line would be more appropriate here because I'm using it to show how the pattern is balanced on your body shape. A grainline is used to match the position of the grain of the fabric when you're cutting out your pieces. Thank you for bringing this up!! I should have called it a center balance line vs. grainline for this tutorial. It gets "muddy" for me because when I draft patterns the center vertical line on my pants patterns is both the center grainline and the center balance line... I've seen on other patterns where the grainline is not in the center of the leg. Hope this muddled answer helps!! Thanks for fitting along with me

[@patgottshalk8808]

Thanks for this. I am often deep in the “mud” and in my own way. I appreciate your wisdom and willingness to share your knowledge. I know you talked about moving this line during the FM classes but I am a work in progress.

[@JSternDesigns]

Keep me posted if you need help!