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Today I want to talk about the Center Grainline on the back leg of a pants pattern. This is a vertical line that is centered on the leg from hem to knee that extends straight up to the waistline. (This is not the same thing as a shorter grainline positioned on the pattern piece to show you how to align the pattern piece with the straight of grain of the fabric you're cutting the pieces out of.)
If you're pants pattern does not have this guideline marked on the pattern piece, you can draw on in yourself. This vertical grainline can help you determine if the back leg is going to hang properly from your waistline and full hip. If you're making your first fit muslin using the pattern as it came out of the envelop, it's likely that there is space between the top of the grainline and the CB edge.
Sometimes making fit adjustments can tip or skew the top of the leg so the grainline is too close to the CB edge. It could also be close to the CB edge because of the way it was drafted. Why is this important? The top of this center grainline shows you how much fabric you have and how it's distributed across your back leg from waist to crotch level. Depending on your shape, you may need more or less fabric on the CB side of the grainline. Join me to find out when it's ok for the top of the center grainline to be close to the CB edge and when it should be closer to the center of the back leg. Plus, I'll show you how to adjust the pattern to balance the center grainline for your shape.
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