What I Learned (Much Different Than 7018)

[@kennethnevel3263]

7014 has a iron powder coating and is fast fill and a fast freeze rod . It is good for putting down a lot of metal fast . Very good for open corners in the flat position with the right size rod and heat , when done right all that is needed to have a round corner is just polish off the light ripples to shape and smooth . I have found that at the end of the bead I have to lift some and back step to cover the end with slag to keep the pool at the end of the bead from getting a crack in the end . 7014 will make a very smooth weld . Works pretty good for over head if remember right . I will do filet welds really well as it puts down a lot of metal fast . If it is piling up in the center, move fast to get a flatter weld . You will like 7014 for some work after you get used to how it works . No one rod or size works for everything , different rods for different places or jobs to get the best results . I have welded chain links together with 3/32 7014 at 90 amps one pass , that I could not break with the log skidder winching as hard as it would pull on big timber , that was the only way I could repair a broken chain so it would slide through the hook properly . I welded a broken choker hook with 8018 and heat treated and it never broke , logging is hard on things . Weld a cutting edge on a big wheel loader that was broken in the middle with 8018 , V,ed out to the center preheated and filled back in both sides , I dug out tree stumps with it after that and it did not break . Ps , it was broke when I got the loader and don't know what some one did to break it .

[@tanibegay182]

So if it’s a fast freeze rod do I turn my machine down just a bit

[@warrenjones744]

I just found this on the internet regarding 7014 "The third digit of the electrode will indicate the position in which you can use it in. In this case the ‘1’ means that the 7014 is an all-position electrode. You should be able to use this rod in any of the positions, but welding in the vertical up position can be a little challenging.'

[@tomt9543]

But just like a fat girl in a tube top, just because you CAN wear it doesn’t mean you SHOULD wear it! Lol!

[@RudyHuebner-x3j]

7014 is made to run horizontal and flat I also have ran it downhill Always enjoy your videos stay strong and positive as you are

[@luisviscencio9615]

But if it has a one doesn’t that mean it can weld in all positions

[@joshlee9280]

It does ​@@luisviscencio9615

[@motoz3939]

It’s made for all position including vertical up. If you look at the data sheets it does say it is designed for downhill sheet metal

[@brnmcc01]

You're thinking of 7024 I think. "1" is all position.

[@robertmintz63]

@@brnmcc01that is correct - “1” - all position ! 7024 - flat only .

[@ronaldstoddard1065]

When I was a teenager in the mid 70's working in my Dads shop. we had a contract, so I did the same process every week. most of what I did involved kind of a lap joint on quarter inch plate.The welds needed to look good so Dad wanted me to use 7014. I had to do overhead, Flat, vertical And about a 30 degree up hill. I loved the last one. I would hold a slight drag position on it and it was just like butter.. vertical if I remember correctly I would hold close to straight on with my rod. One more caveat. The welder that I had to use was a 1960 something Buzz Box.

[@babygravy696]

i learned welding on 7014. 10 years later i could never get it to work verticaly. its amazing flat though. bead comes out perfect and slag peels off easy. less grinding.

[@Evildaddy911]

I learned on 7014, tacking rebar. Haven't done much since but it's in between 6010 and 7018 in terms of amperage. Also, part of 7018 being lo-hy is its slow freezing which would help it smooth out and hide inconsistencies. Also 7014 is the best-smelling rod

[@robertmintz63]

Great vid , enjoyed it ! You talk about favoring the right side , ie inconsistency, between the 2 sides . I always did a count 1-2 on the side , then a 1 crossover & a 1-2 on the other side , that way I kept it even . Used boxes of 7014 , in all positions , if it looks like you are getting some undercut on the sides , brush it out & do a downhill , the extra iron powder in the flux adds to the weld & makes it extra smooth . Beautiful Never used it with a DC machine, used Lincoln 225 Buzz Box , welded every thing from horse corral fencing 2” pipe to 1/2” plate

[@olddawgdreaming5715]

Thanks for sharing with us Austin. Stay safe and keep up the great videos. Fred.

[@keithsharratt3402]

Down hill 7014 is so sweet , just lay it in there and let it do the work , beautiful.

[@jerrywilder9403]

Thanks for the schooling , I’ve made the best vertical welds downhill with 7014 , for the most part I like them ok

[@aidenschwartz]

I remember the first time I tried uphill. Couldn’t get the slag off because the weld bowed out like that. Few weeks ago got a perfect uphill. First time trying it out since the first time.

[@neilheriot2361]

I don't know if this would help or not, when I did my C ticket I was taught to go faster accross the center and hang out on the edges to avoid that michelan man belly. 👌 Thanks for bringing us along.

[@brennanpeck4]

Hey Austin! Love your videos man. Very informative and your demeanour is top notch! I’ve been welding for 21 years now. Hard to believe how fast the time goes! Take care! Watching from Nova Scotia, Canada 🇨🇦

[@dmetriglover3628]

Love that your always keep learning something new

[@funwithmack2242]

I love the fact I’m in welding school right now and I feel the struggle with trying to get better and having fun doing it. I am on my 7018 1/8 vertical weave and it’s been a pain. Trial and error!

[@BMGProjects]

You ought to try Mercer 80TAC rods. They run like 6013 to me.. no penetration and thick slag, but make some pretty welds.

[@wargamingsupernoob]

Oh Austin, fun fact for you. The thicker the plate, the harder the scale can be to get off. I run our company's plasma table and realized that when deburring half inch thick and thicker holes. (The guy that used to run our other machine also taught me hold the flapdisk at an angle on the plates and the slag will peel off if your speed is just right...)

[@circlebforge6060]

7014 is called a hippie rod, used in high humidity areas, great for horizontal and t joints. ive found that running it vertical, you have to have a perpendicular rod angle for it to behave decently

[@fittergrips2010]

I've used lots of hippie rod in my day it is not 7014 . It is 7010g hyp used down hand on grade 359 pipe

[@thomasmcnicholas8656]

7014 is a low hydrogen rod classification….“ hippie” referees to HYP rods High Yield Strength…….7010/G ….”hippie” was just a word welders started saying in reference to HYP rods is all

[@iwin1833]

​@@thomasmcnicholas8656no way man . 7014 is a groovy hippie rod dude ? 😅😅

[@bigrob1887]

@@thomasmcnicholas8656 Not sure where you're getting your info, but 7014 is 100% not a low hi rod. Low hydrogen rods start at xxx5 and go to xxx8

[@Cody_1983]

A Grinding and Paint make you welder you ain’t lol. I love your videos like this because they show that it’s ok to experiment with different things

[@garthland]

little tip on controlling the heat when welding coupons if you're testing out for D.1 or D1.5,there's not a limit on coupons-work on 2 or 3 samples testing out. they get to cool off better,submit the best one

[@MarkBrey-w8o]

Very good. You don't hear people trying to challenge themselves anymore. This might be a challenge for you, is to weld cast iron with a torch. I've had hands on experience from a very good tradesman. I'm not the best at it, but the old guy said that. That is how cast should only be welded.

[@santiagopatino274]

Oh and thank you for telling us about Gus fab amazing content . God bless thanks for trying new things and sharing your experiences.

[@arosswelding]

Pleasure is all mine

[@santiagopatino274]

Thank you very much for the experience of you trying.Really loved the video because it showed me how up hill was with 7014 ... am practicing with 7018 rod that's my first rod I got ... thankyou for trying something new agen and it shows that in welding you can't predict what will happen in a real life senerio. 👍

[@arosswelding]

My pleasure

[@Dale.welder]

5:51 right now Love the videos Ross!

[@maddigger0074]

the amperage range for a 3/32 7014 welding rod is around 80-125 amps. One of the best features of a 7014 rod is that it can be used on all polarities. DCEP, DCEN, and AC. That is a good thing for folks who only have an AC welder. 7014 welding rods have a puddle that compares to a 6013 rods except that 7014 rods have a heavier flux coating and therefore make a bigger puddle. While 7014 rods do not require being kept in a oven, they weld a lot better if they are either freshly opened, or fresh out of a rod oven. Slag chipped off a lot easier when I used rods freshly out of the box. using a lot more drag angle that what is recommended by books works better in pushing the slag to the rear of the puddle. this is a drag rod

[@shortfuse43]

125 amps for 3/32 7014 is WAY too hot unless you are cutting metal. I use 3/32 7014 almost all the time from 85 to 95 amps, depending on thickness of metal.

[@zombieresponder]

I recently made some practice runs with 3/32" 7014 similar to what you're doing here. I ran at about 95 amps(shop machine) on 1/4" plate with a very slight weave and had no problems. Toes tied in just fine, but if I slowed down too much, it would hump in the middle and the slag would run. I also ran with almost no rod angle. I might have had 5 degrees on it. More angle and it tried to run off. 7014 is an all position rod, identified by the third digit being a "1". I think you're trying to lay in too much of a bead at whatever the amperage actually is on your machine, and that is what's causing the appearance to vary. For what it's worth, I didn't have a similar overheating problem on that 1/4" plate I used(T joint like yours as well).

[@Jacked2theTs]

I’ve never been that good at uphill… But luckily, I’ve never had to do anything that required it, or always was able to move the project into another position… Honestly, for myself, I’d probably not worry about doing a fence post hinge in the uphill… But I can relate to wanting to improve one’s capabilities.

[@darrellmellott6096]

7014 is technically "All Position" which is what the "1" in the designation means. It is the all position version of 7024 which is only meant for flat and horizontal. It is for high deposit rates and will work just fine overhead, but it is pretty tricky going vertical up as the puddle and flux are very fluid. Faster than 7018 and it works better than 7018 on AC, but of course the deposit isn't low hydrogen. Good farmer rod, but you are better off using 7018 if you need to go vertical up.

[@SteveWarner-e8z]

Hi Austin, did you try going up a gear and down on the volts to stiffen the puddle?

[@aidenschwartz]

Down hill is so fascinating if ya can get the puddle and feed of material right. Ya can pretty much just drag the puddle along the root and it will fill in nicely.

[@robertmintz63]

Have done so many times , love it .

[@TheDuckofDoom.]

I get good at vertical by the end of a project, then go so long between projects that I forget which technique works for which rod and need to start all over.

[@thomasmcnicholas8656]

Austin….. have ya ran any 9045DH ( downhand Lo/Hi) rods ? One gas company I have welded for is using them….. I’m sure there are others….little learning curve running a lo/hi rod down hand from Celosis rods…..

[@User1963sa]

Wedged with 7014 for the first time the other day and was told it’s an all position rod but not a big fan of it

[@tomt9543]

Just a suggestion, but since the majority of viewers can’t relate the settings on your box to anything on their shop machine, it would be nice if you had an electric machine in your shop to show settings on. You’ve had a class 1 channel from episode number 1, and posts like this one exploring the nuances of the 7014 build on that tradition! That being said, the opinion of this retired AWS D15.1 certified welder of 41 years service is to leave the 7014’s for flat and slightly downhill projects, and stick to the old faithful 7018 & 6010 team for the out of position stuff! Thanks for a great channel!

[@arosswelding]

Thank you for you feed back! I will keep this in mind for sure!

[@joemccarthy4270]

I Have a hell of time running anything up hill with anything but if, I'm quick , close (almost drag) and 90 degrees to the work piece I can some times make an uphill look ok.

[@garygault2691]

I have only welded some 2in pipe coupons with 7014, but I found it better to weld hot and fast and keep a tight pattern. The weld looks better but sucked to weld any uphill or downhill. I definitely liked uphill a bit better.

[@shortfuse43]

I use 7014 almost all the time, but have tried learning more about 7018...sorta a mirror image of your mostly using 7018 and trying to learn how to use 7014.....

[@joeandmichelle7375]

The slag would take some getting use to. I thought it was "falling out" as soon as i saw it. It sure is hideous looking with the slag on it 😂. But yeah it would take some practice for sure. Ive never ran it myself, it does look good in a downhand and would be super easy to do. Thats a very helpful video, i learned a lot. Thank you sir.

[@WmSrite-pi8ck]

Are you running the rod DCEP or DCEN? Try reversing whatever polarity you are using. Don't run 7014 downhill or you'll get slag inclusions. The rutile flux of 7014 contributes to a high deposition rate but the downside is all the slag it throws off. 7014 is amazing for hanging gates. It has good elongation properties, doesn't need a rod oven in high humidity and can burn through a moderate amount of rust and mill scale. It's really the ideal rod for gates with high torque moments. Keep practicing and don't listen to people who tell you the 7014 is a "farmer's rod." That's nonsense. There's almost no better rod to hang a gate with.

[@fztfabs65]

Do you have videos on HYP rod Austin? I’ve never ran it and was kind of curious what heats are for that rod and how to run it

[@adamwright4969]

That's pretty good for 7014 uphill

[@joshsharpe1575]

Austin, i was always taught that arc length can control heat can you focus or answer more on that?

[@mr.purple4634]

I love 7014! However I find it runs easier on reverse polarity (DCEN) but I can’t recall if it’s rated for that or not. I’d need to double check AWS A5.something to make sure it’s meant for that. But for practice with it I find DCEN the best. I believe it’s also rated for AC but don’t quote me on that. I run my 1/8th 7014 same amperage as my 1/8th 7018

[@kevinrobinette65]

looks good bro.........id love to b able to start my stick weld as good as u!! Dam!!! man u make it look easy

[@reeselee1875]

i looked into 7014 and it is a high slag producing rod

[@jeffcarpenter5147]

I never could make 7014 work on any vertical.

[@KevinHylin-w3j]

I have welded with 7014 never on up hill can't be done flat and horizontal I did it on bar joist Eigithy footers won't let me upload pictures keep doing what you do son I have been following you for four years 😊

[@samuelscragg7052]

I used 7014 for filler rod work and most of it down hand or flat. Never tried vertical up or down. Have done horizontal and the flux would droop down. I like the 7018 better than 7014

[@derekbryant6137]

I've had good luck with the square weaves stair step method where you build yourself a shelf and step it up that way but I have never been able to set a Stringer straight up vertically and it do any good 7014 is closely related to the 7024 jet rod 7014 is also the little brother to the 7018 electrode minus the iron powder

[@billmoates4544]

When you are practicing on coupons is it acceptable to quench the piece in water between beads to keep the heat manageable? Thanks for your videos, they are very helpful to those of us who are still somewhat beginners.

[@arosswelding]

Id say that would be ok in that situation. I don’t see why not… 🤷‍♂️

[@erikslagter3231]

the boogers look impressive and the weld below looks fine to the untrained eye. Thumbs up

[@adamwright4969]

You did good brother, that's not an easy rod to run uphill

[@glenngosline3303]

Will run better on DC straight polarity or AC current

[@kidkv]

Have you, tried circles? I'm no pro welder, but it only needs to hold.😊

[@oldmate8626]

I don't think it consistency. Looks like the slag doesn't freeze the puddle fast enough so metal is running down. Great video

[@georgeduckworth4452]

Reminds me of up welding with 6013 lol

[@patricksimoneau7647]

Hey Austin, what are you using to get your welding shots? Do you just put an auto darkening lens in front of your camera? Or??

[@arosswelding]

kzbin.infotCnAmVqtYf4?si=h-2EKLHlJ_7ajjhy

[@patricksimoneau7647]

@@arosswelding oh wow! I wasn’t expecting that quality with just turning the iso down. Thanks man.

[@geneautry2091]

I always break the flux off the end of my rod for quicker arc

[@MickielPowell]

Try a triangular pattern

[@BCole-bj4lv]

7014 .. the "1" means: all position. With all that runny slag, it definitely isn't a downhill rod so uphill must be the thing. I can't imagine it overhead, to be honest. That would make an interesting video. Coffee on!

[@samuelsnyder5169]

What lens is that?

[@JackCossairt]

To me it is kind of like Lincon 180 ,have you tried the figure 8 rod movement

[@fittergrips2010]

mistake weaving on the first pass by the look of it . Try dragging and slight whipping up and settling back to form a narrow first pass ,and 3/32 if need be . don't get tricked by watching the slag watch the weld metal and what it is doing . Looking at your weld metal bead, it looks as though 7014 is very liquid with the hanging metal in the middle and leaves lots of slag compared to 7018 . You get a pinhole in your crater when you are welding a little to hot . 7018 will do that as well . Looking at the rod there is a ton of flux on it that will leave more slag it will affect your metal deposition as well . maybe run in narrow strips ? Rod brand can make a difference too more or less flux, or flux not evenly distributed on the rod . variations of amps and volts can make a difference like it does running beads with 8010g. Running beads to not get under cut on the bottom third using less amps and more volts to cure under cut

[@ODOUCET]

U can run them uphill 150 main & about 30 on reo

[@ODOUCET]

It's a very watery rod

[@erikyoung256]

If I didn't a stinger in your hand, I would think that would be NR 232

[@carlsmith2826]

Shipyard weave uphill.

[@Slingingmetal]

its 7014 the 1 means you can run it in all positions dosent mean it runs good in all positions tho

[@tnrebelman666]

Why didn't you back step your vertical? Might have helped the stop/starts look better

[@tnrebelman666]

I liked the video also.

[@beaugodwin7306]

It's almost like your moving to much to slow, try turning up to about 75 and make smaller movements, it made sense what u said about the ripple laying over the slag because it freezes so slow.

[@BrokenTWelder]

I enjoy watching your videos bud. You're like the Bob Ross of welding, all you need is an afro.

[@shortfuse43]

With extra heavy starch!!!! To match your shirt. LOL

[@joeworkerjr5772]

Try a bend test on it

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[@intiaboats]

Proviso, I've only watched the first half of this video at this point. Based on such; it looks ropey, & too high a crown. I'd try a bit more heat, try a bit quicker across the width (without going out of your puddle), holding a bit longer on each end, and keeping rod 90 degrees to the vertical axis. With lo-hi (7018) I'd normally hold for a count of "one-and" on each side for first pass, "one, and, two, and" on second pass, and "one, and, two, and, three, and" on third pass.

[@bnsimanton]

that rod seems like its all flux! man thats a lot of slag

[@jeffcarpenter5147]

6013 isn't bad on vertical up .'

[@anicekevorking3753]

7014 is definitely made to go uphill but if you dont keep the shortest arc possible it likes to undercut so bad.

[@thomasmcnicholas8656]

If you don’t keep a tight arc hold your edges and have a good rod angle…… you’ll undercut anything 🤷‍♂️

[@paulusmarc]

Bo Boulo😆😆👍👍

[@Las_stick]

Thnaks ❤❤❤

[@jasonstevens5943]

7014 is primarily vertical downhill. You can run up but it will look like hammered dog sh!t.

[@obibo6699]

I usually run 7018 on 85

[@ropo772]

7014 is supposed to be not as ductile as 7018, thus more succeptible to cracking? Experiences anyone? Vs the tried and true 7018?

[@geneautry2091]

7014 burns like 7024 in the same flat or horizontal

[@garthland]

7014 is a high iron powder flux hi deposition electrode,not designed for vertical-up. fun to play with though!

[@marqueonmauldin9095]

So I’m guessing your doing z’s all the way up

[@sparksandchips]

Man stick with the devil you know vs the devil you don’t know and move on…… I know this comment will get a lot of flak, I love learning as much as anyone but for vert up 7018 or 11018 is the boss!

[@tomt9543]

Retired after 41 years as a certified welder, and I couldn’t agree more! I love 7014 for certain tasks, but vertical up isn’t one of them! 7018 or 6010 work far too good out of position to mess with anything else! Love that he’s willing to do this R&D work for us though!

[@logik4264]

Try it on AC🤔

[@johnpope4464]

Like to see what 7014 does down hill

[@kyranprasad2675]

since nobody is saying it. you are running to hot

[@RudyHuebner-x3j]

30:35 7014 flat and horizontal 😎 31:14

[@johnpope4464]

You are on second rod, I think you where to hot

[@beyondmiddleagedman7240]

Harry Potter's Sorting Hat! 7014 will run vertical. But down is easier than up. Up is stronger than down. It freezes faster than 7018, slower than 6010.

[@9983sp]

It looks like you're moving too slow.

[@INEVURLOSE]

You may have a welding mask on, but your viewers dont. I personally wasn't prepared when you started welding, and it could have damaged my eyes. I put some sunglasses on and that helped a bit. You need to give a warning to your viewers that they need to have a welding mask before you start, or you'll be permanently damaging peoples eyes.

[@chrisflorence2335]

You do understand that you are watching a video don't you? There is no welding radiation being emitted by your screen

[@arosswelding]

The arc will not hurt your eyes via video.

[@INEVURLOSE]

@@arossweldingOf course it will, mine started to burn before i got my sunglasses. Most monitors can display millions of colors, including the color of the welder. That's why the call it ultraviolent light.

[@Bangoramazingvids]

What remote do you have?