My First Time Welding With 7014

In this video I will be welding with 7014 for the first time. I will be sharing my real life first impressions. I will be stick welding with my sae 300 lincoln engine drivin welding machine. I will be welding on 12" pipe. I will be building a charcoal grill out of a piece of 12" pipe. I will be using my mobile welding rig and I will be stick welding.
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[@gunnarl5087]

“If this is what DIY welders feel like, no wonder they don’t want to weld” Classic 🤣🤣

[@TheRustyGarageandHomestead]

7024 next please austin you can do a whole series on different welding rods lol

[@Loompius]

Around the farm I don't weld anything too thick and everything's rusty. 7018 won't run and 6011 blows holes in everything. 7014 I found is just amazing for this type of stuff.

[@shortfuse43]

I've been welding for about 18 yrs and using 7014 for most of that time. I love the rod. Smooth, clean bead Good penetration Has to run a bit hotter than most. I run 3/32" at 95 to 100; 1/8" at 125 to 130 on inverter. Run hot on inside corners (fillets) and a bit cooler on outside corners as you said. Drag rod, shove it in, low rod angle gives slag problems Uphill rod, don't manipulate or you'll get slag inclusions Easy restrikes Doesn't need rod/heat oven. I suggest you get a bunch of scrap mild steel, usually A36 type and practice a lot with it. It will weld different from 7018 you're used to. Glad you gave the old 7014 a try, Now I need to practice more with 7018!!!!

[@scottmacleod6301]

Just for curiosity sake,what are you using it on because I haven't even seen it in about 30 years.

[@shortfuse43]

Mild steel, aka "A36"@@scottmacleod6301

[@TheDuckofDoom.]

​@@scottmacleod6301 Over all it's a faster depositing rod for laying in a more filler metal faster than 6013, same rutile chemistry as 6013 and 7024 with an iron content between the two so the puddle is more controlled than 24 allowing some modest "all position" work. But it depends a good deal on the brand. Specs for ESAB 6013 and 7014 have the 6013 significantly stronger in yield and ultimate, their 7014 necks more with very similar elongation at break, but they don't give any charpy impact results for 7014 so not easy to compare actual toughness. Lincoln 6013(fleetweld 37rsp) and 7014(fleetweld 47rsp) are very similar to eachother in strength with a slight edge to 7014, but they do have charpy results for both which show 7014 as somewhat less brittle than 6013 and a narrower range for the 7014 (more consistent). (Slightly different temperatures 6013 at 0⁰f and 7014 at -20⁰f) Elongation at break slightly favors 37rsp.

[@eastwood3080]

We used to use them in ship yards for repairs. They are designed for rusty steel, similar to a 6013.

[@grahamheidinger1490]

Ok makes sense then cause i make panels and am no lazy to clean my metal up. But they seem to start the arc better in rusty conditions verses cleaning them anyway

[@mlbabineaux]

7014 runs beautifully on an AC machine. Really easy flux removal, as well. Austin, use more drag angle with 7014 !

[@larrycaughron1321]

I began welding in 1966, and just about every time I watch your videos, I learn some new little twist about one thing or another. Good show. 👆🇺🇸👆

[@justsayin7937]

I appreciate how humble you are while being a top notch welder. Youngsters a d experienced welders alike can learn alot from you. Thanks for all the info on all your videos.

[@arosswelding]

Pleasure is all mine

[@mikenew9263]

We ran 3/16 7024 and 7014 for second pass on pipe tub bottoms, timber head jobs. Any time we needed a big second pass and wanted to lay down some metal. Not for tacking up or fabrication. The 3/16 rods were where the Big 40 would shine! The Sa 200 would run them but you would have to stop every now and then and let ‘em cool down. Those were the days! You could almost run a box ( 50 lbs) in a day. Thanks, Mike

[@joehardhat5598]

I've bin in the building trades for 28 years now I was a welder fabricator now I'm a crane operator after watching your video on building the pipe welder truck body I realized how much I miss fabricating and welding thanks for your attention to detail and sharing your work!

[@bigdave6447]

Y ou have to remember 7014 has iron powder in the Flux so you're melting that into,the puddle! Good advice is to get a Lincoln welding rod se lection guide book !!

[@perpersson1072]

that was pro move with burner circle before starting the triangel 👌

[@derekbryant6137]

3rd and last comment I just realized you were using your generator to weld with that so you were using a sinusoidal wave rotary welder you should try it with your inverter stick welder I think you'll like what you find try it with your inverter your little Lincoln inverter 7014 works great on inverters

[@bayoutrapper]

We always used ac, ran hot, and they lay down slick. God bless and work safe.

[@williammckenney3590]

The way I learn is to try doing things a different way, sometimes it takes a little longer but I always learn from it. As I have been teaching my young coworker, I will show him what happens when the heat is too high, too low, and how fast to travel. You have to think on a different level when teaching, even if you teaching yourself, like what happens when I try this or that. I’ve learned more from teaching than being told what to do.

[@derekbryant6137]

It's in the same category as 7024 but you can weld in all positions with it I use this Rod all the time 4 automotive and putting brackets back on tractors patching buckets it's a fill rod hi deposit it's a great in between a 6010 or 6011 and you just get below flush and you can put a nice 7018 or 8018 cap on top of that and she's cherry

[@DJb-ill219]

I used this in a fab shop for stitch welds if you clean up the steel first with a wire brush and run it hot and close to the material as possible it lays a bead like butter

[@Biokemist-o3k]

Always awesome seeing an informative video Austin. I have never used 7014. I was always under the impression that the slag will infiltrate the puddle. I have seen way better welders than me leave snail trails or worm things all over really making a mess. I get the impression after all that you have to go faster than the slag that is being made.

[@markbroad119]

Give it a shot, not all that much different but restrike just like the first.

[@danielsojourner267]

Great video Austin! Save those knees, put that on a table!!

[@ouroboros5378]

Number 1 all positions

[@bigdave6447]

I love watching Victor go,go,go !!!!

[@greasydot]

They are really fluid when you turn them up so they run good.

[@tomt9543]

Get 1/8”! DRAG DRAG DRAG! It’s a good rod once you figure it out! You can’t let the molten slag get in front of the puddle, or you’ll get those areas of incomplete fusion & slag pockets. Pushing the rod like you did when welding the top on is a huge no no in 7014 welding. Again, DRAG DRAG DRAG, and lay the rod on the plate, not off of it! And it works downhill just fine…….once you figure out how! In my experience, vertical up is bad ju-ju with 7014.

[@aramirez8427]

Best 2 farm rods out there..............7014 and 6013

[@2035jim]

I agree 7018s pretty good too 6013 is my favorite rod of all time 7014 is a great rod for heavier metals like 3/4 plate

[@AWDJRforYouTube]

Austin E-7014 is just E-6013 plus added [25-30%] iron powder in the coating to improve deposit rate, operation, bead appearance ect. High iron powder rods run super smoothe and laysdown metal fast and pretty. As other commenters said, you need to run hot and keep the rod angled 30-45 deg. in the direction of travel, keeping the heavy slag from geting under or ahead of the arc. VERY IMPORTANT THESE ARE DRAG RODS you must keep the coating touching the work and a short arc. Look at the end of a used stub and you will see a flux cup. The wire is burned back fron the end. This is your arc length. If you try to hold an arc [as with 6010] you are doubling the arc length to over 1/4"! Long arc means Less amperage [heat]Short or drag arc more amperage [heat] loosing arc force needed to keep the slag Behind the arc.😎As you weld out of position with these rods the heavy slag and fluid puddle works against you. E6013 is better all position, E7014 just makes the AWS all positiion standard.

[@fionnbarrboggs7682]

Good man thanks I am trying 2 get my boss buy them for fixing buckets

[@bayoutrapper]

Exactly what I was going to say. I worked for a mobile home factory welding the frames one time when times got thin ya know. Just like 7024, but you can run it vertical. But you gotta run, and actually turn up the heat higher than you'd think. Once ya get the hang of them you can really throw down some metal. God bless, and work safe.

[@Hillbilly_grinchwil]

I like to just make a couple different joints and grab a new rod and figure out the range they work best for each joint configuration I’m doing. I always keep notes in my book. My machines and all the machines at the shop. That way if I forget what I had a machine set on I can just look in my notebook and get a good start point and tweak to what the puddle tells me I need. Feet first is always more fun and makes you really pay attention to the puddle. Keep up the good works Austin. Love your videos

[@welderdude1]

Pferd or Ferd makes great abrasives. I like their 6" braided wire wheels. Them and the Norton Bluefire are what I prefer.

[@rubentha3rd323]

IM STARTING TO GET INTO WELDING AND BRO U ARE MY FAVORITE WELDER BEST WELDER IVE EVER SEEN FR

[@derekbryant6137]

And I should add with this second comment there is as you've already figured out an epic amount of slag that's that gummy stuff you was talking about you can get the slag in your puddle real quick you can also get worm tracks that big void you had on your hinge bracket there are people that don't like this Rod because it is a challenge to use it just like 6013 is a challenge to use and most of the time it's because the slag forces you to keep the rod angle correct or you will get it in your puddle and have inclusions City

[@ccwilder3]

More drag. Don't manipulate the rod as much. Just drag. My favorite rod. Really like your vids. Been a subscriber for a long time.

[@SouthernGround]

Sanding off the mill scale always helps (although with right rod not essential) and certainly won't hurt regardless of which rod or other welding prossess you use. Surprised you never ran it before, I made up welding bead samples on a big plate that hung on a wall of every type of rod we sold. when a customer wanted to know how it ran ect. I would show them, made selling much easier, so I ran everything in the book to know the product. I understand we get into using certain rods and live with them, my first rod I ever ran as a youngen (10) was 6011 went thru a few #50 boxes in my informative years, all before MIG came out, yea i'am old 😂😂, my old man said if you can run 6011 you can run anything.

[@BigWesLawns]

The heat transfers up the plate on a fillet weld. We aim the rod more at the rear plate, than we do a 45° or into the bottom plate on the root pass. Thats where the heat goes. Just like doing a vert up 7018 plate... all that heat goes up. You xan crank it and pull the rod away from the plate to increase heat, but dont. 😂

[@sccolbert]

I run a lot of 7014. I am not a full time welder, and I don't want to have to deal with 7018 storage requirements, so 7014 is what I keep in my truck. I run 1/8" 7014 at about 120amps on a good fit up. 100amps on a bad fit up. Makes a nice bead, plenty of penetration, easy to start and restart. I have a hard time getting it fully fill-up the crater at the end of a run. Always end up with a slight dish no matter what I do. It runs fine uphill, but leaves too big a bead for my taste, so I still use 6011 for that.

[@zombieresponder]

Austin, most pipeline machines are DC only output. I have mostly run 7014 on AC, and don't have enough hood time with them on DC to form any significant opinion. I prefer the 7014 if for no other reason than I do not have random porosity issues with them. Admittedly, I haven't had porosity with 7018 in a while, bit I still tend to grab 7014 unless I think the added ductility of 7018 is needed. Try some 7024 if you have flat work to do. You'll have to turn the heat up, but it will fill in a bevel faster than anything else.

[@chriswood4676]

I used it when i had only AC output..worked great!

[@UplandHunter354]

Not sure if I took it the wrong way but what did you mean that you just found put yiur machine was a DC machine?

[@mattke5etc]

It's a higher deposition Rod there's iron dust in the flux that adds to the weld puddle. It's made for faster moving higher amperage high-speed deposition with medium weld penetration. That's probably why it feels more like spray arc. Love you videos, best way to learn is to get out of your comfort zone.

[@benjamincarver2940]

7014 is all we use where i work. crank up the heat real high and get going. im a production welder at a concrete panel factory and i weld the form together.

[@williamthomas9463]

Back when I was just welding for the farm that I worked on and for neighbors and only had access to an old Marquette AC stick welder and had no knowledge of impact properties I ran miles of 1/8 7014. I preferred it to 6013 because of higher tensile strength (I knew what the number designation on stick electrodes meant). Once I started welding professionally and started educating myself on weld metal mechanical properties I stopped using it and haven’t used it since. I’m sure they’re fine for non-critical welding but why take a chance. Apparently, they worked though because I never had any failures and I welded tons of things that shouldn’t have been welded with 7014 before I knew any better.

[@marioserra4383]

good video Austin, best regards

[@2035jim]

Yeah the slag runs around with 7014 and 7024 more drag angle helps with that

[@benelkins2510]

Duke Energy ‘s test on a 6G is 7014. No landing with a 2” square as a spacing. 2”- 12” - Pipe is required. Practice, practice, practice. I was the only one who passed out of 4000 welders.

[@TheMongoose69]

I self-taught myself with 6013 and 7014 on super rusty metal because that's all I could find to learn with beginning and all and then somebody suggested 6011 and 7018 and wow the world changed but I can weld really well with 6013 and 7014 just got to get the split clean

[@briandowson5476]

Austin. It’s funny I should come across this video about 7014 today. I’m an avid follower of yours and recently got myself a little gas engine driven Multiquip machine to start learning on. I’ve been running 6011 and recently was given 2 5lb sleeves of rod that ended up being 7014. As a real green beginner….i just can’t get the hang of 7014.

[@SteadArcFab_Ministries]

I enjoy both approaches! Usually I will research though. Great vid brother! 👊 from Michigan!

[@CelticArmory]

As a DIY hobbyist my biggest hurdle is coming up with projects to do to practice welding. A hitch mount grill is intriguing, but I don't have access to pipe of that size.

[@308TRshooter]

I like 7014 for tacking expanded mesh on guarding

[@BCole-bj4lv]

They will weld really thin metal pretty well, as I recall. I think I welded 18awg with it on really low amps. I don't use it much. I think it's much like 6013.

[@ezelk1337]

Amazing torch skills! Welding too.

[@ziggy-2-timez]

I used to love 7014 when I welded landing gears on peanut trailers all the time it's kind of a mix between a 6013 and a 7018 I mainly liked them for the overhead welding that was hard to get a grinder or anything in there to clean the metal I always hated 6013 so 7014 was my go to you can make some really nice welds with it too I used to run 1/8 7014 at 110-120 amps

[@tcs2508]

usually use a grinding wheel similar for welding kennametal in power plants its a pricey wire and grinding wheel but takes experience to tig weld

[@wargamingsupernoob]

This was fun to watch. Thanks for satisfying my request if you could call it that. 7014s have 30% iron powder in them, hence the need to crank the amps up compared to the same size 7018s. It's like a 7024, which has 50% iron powder, but that is limited to flat plate or horizontal fillet welds because it's so fluid. You saying "Must be an uphill rod" was hillarious. I knew that slag ran in front of your puddle when I saw you try it. I've got a box of em in case I need to fill something up quick and I can't MIG it. Like you, I prefer 6010 and 7010s cause I can go downhill over anything, but it's another tool in my toolbox in case something shits the bed and I don't have anything else left.

[@cesare8270]

Wow you are really good at free hand cutting with the torch, impressive work. I struggle with that lol.

[@arosswelding]

Thank you

[@Texaspipeliner210]

Chop your machine Austin 🤙🏽

[@JD-526]

I've used 7014 uphill and downhill, they need a lot of heat, depends on your machine welding hot or cold. you do need to practice, better if you clean you metal before welding with 7014 they are good using DCEN. for the thinner metal and DCEP for the thicker metals. If you learn the rod your welds will come out smooth like 7018. I wouldn't do any heavy equipment welding with those rods they're not as strong as 7018.

[@joefalmo5528]

Back when I was a teenager, we use this stuff on the farm, hated it, my father was not a big-time welder, and he liked it, after going through welding in high school, the only thing we used was 6011 and 70,18, 7018 being my preference, 7014 I never use it on anything that really matters, I found that if it isn’t turned up a little hot, it just wants to have big slag inclusions in it, it’s really bad on any kind of fillet weld, if you have somebody that is learning how to weld it’s a nice rod to give them to build a little confidence, it strikes off really easy, you can just just let them drag it. I have a cousin that couldn’t weld two pieces of metal together by accident, and when he needs some welding rod, that’s what I give him, give him! The only 7014 in my shop is a box that was given to me by a customer that didn’t like it, anyway Austin, thanks for taking the time to make the video, for a man that’s welded for 45 years even I pick up something👍

[@wadepatton2433]

If you ever get the chance to buy Pferd files, get some. I get them by the dozen for saw chain filing--PREMO stuff !

[@lanekoontz]

Can someone clarify for me...I see a lot of comments about 6013 being a farmer rod and good for rusty material. I was always taught that 6013 was really only good for thin gauge and had a hard time penetrating rust. 6010 was the rod most farmers typically use and was great at penetrating rust.

[@franklane6980]

The only rods I've used is 6010 6011 7018 ... i weld pipe in a fab shop we use P5+ 7018 and lot of flux wire

[@1stMolten_Alchemist]

need to turn 'er up between 100-140s...even 150 but you're movin fast at that heat. I drag 7014s rarely push my puddle. It's supposed to be an "all positions" rod, but downhill, I wouldn't recommend it because of the slag build-up. An excellent video sir!

[@jollsnj]

7014 is a fast fill rod, so you were doing some out of position stuff, I am sure you felt it was a bit more fluid than 7018. Hot and fast for production work. Would be interesting to time the difference between 7018 vs 7014, maybe 2 sides of a gate?

[@Altruistic-Viking]

Pferd makes a lot of great products, it based in Germany and is pronounced Ferd which means horse.. Btw, 4616/7014 is quite sensitive to the welding angle and prefers to get dragged

[@glenngosline3303]

Also was always taught to set your remote on 50 or better set your course setting so that can be accomplished.

[@berwidwhitaker2360]

Nice looking barbecue pit

[@berwidwhitaker2360]

7014 rods are an A/C polarity rod unlike a 7018...the flux coating on 7014 is totally different because it has a potassium compound in those rods which are chemically made to burn that specific polarity

[@aciagriculturalconstructio2264]

7014 is my favorite. It really shines on vertical welds welding top to bottom. It takes some getting used to. It's a fast freeze rod and I find it stays put better than I can get 7018 to do, especially on vertical or overhead operations. 80-90amps is best

[@richardvillanueva8786]

So you like it down hill

[@thor_bonecrusher9609]

I prefer welding AC over DC and 7014 is my favorite rod try on AC👍

[@beyondmiddleagedman7240]

Run it hotter than 7018 and treat it like 6013 only with better deposition. Supposedly better penetration than 7018 DCEP but I have never found it as strong. Not low hydrogen and doesn't need to be kept in an oven.

[@georgesimpson3113]

you aren't dragging it... it's a total drag stick. They are called a high deposition and speed of travel rod for a reason. Turn up the juice up a bit, lay the rod down more, and go. They don't like to be pushed. I've got a AC/DC machine but I like them on AC, so far. They can go up or down, I like down. YMMV

[@lowcountryantiques3696]

Move the leads around on your machine and it will be like night and day on that 7014 rod..

[@johnjacobjingle8302]

The issue is that flux governs the electrical properties of the rod.. and the rutile flux (like e309, e6013, and this 7014) rods all have the same issue.. they have a low penetrating arc.. or soft arc.. Meaning burn better with a shorter arc. And a shorter arc means less votage. And less voltage means less heat input.. you need to clean the base metal and remove the scale, and you need to run higher heat ( either jacking up the voltage if your machine has that option, or adding the amps) to over compinsate for the shorter arc, and because its a high dep electrode because of the iron power additive you will need to go faster..

[@Banshee350speed]

Cool project 👍

[@KingBigBabyJesus]

73-75 on my primeweld and the read out is 11amps under on the leads with an amp clamp. So 84-86 amps for a 7014 3/32 en or ac ran best. EP if it was just a 1g weld. And I found the railroad tracks usually happen when you travel too slow or too fast or don't fill your start enough. Too slow can be over come by steeper rod angle. Too fast and poor start can be overcome by slowing down slightly or changing rod angle

[@506curtis]

I am no 7014 expert by any means. But I do believe that is one of the preferred rods for ac only welding machines. I know on the old Lincoln 225 ac machines the 7014 is easier to run than 7018 is. So I am assuming that running them off those types of old ac transformers is initially what they were designed for. But that's just an assumption. I probably haven't burned more than a dozen 7014's in my entire life and all off of an old ac lincoln 225.

[@kirstenspencer3630]

I'm watching the spatter during the welding. My guess is there is MOISTURE in the rods. Haven't welded much 7014 buy had goog luck with it. It came out of a sealed #5 box. Don't recall if it should be stored in an oven. Will have to do a little research. Thanks

[@ericarachel55]

I like medium rare please! great video

[@shanemiller6947]

I love my 7914 rods bro lol my miller stick welder shoot its Wad and I was in the middle of a small job for a guy ran out to the Harbor freight picked up an 225 Amp stick welder lol not a bad welder it will not run 7018 only 7014 rods don't know why but it won't I weld with a lot of hippie rods not a bad rod

[@markdeitchman8938]

I generally learn by doing, ie "trial by error". it is more painful, but it is faster (for me anyway).

[@RenneDeal]

Austin run them electrode negative I've been running them for 53 years

[@timmywarren2349]

Very good Video 👍 👍

[@jerrywilder9403]

I’ve used 7014 for years on my Lincoln buzz box AC was good but on my DC portable welder not as good as

[@botsbass842]

They're great for hanging things. Like tying your lead on the side of a manlift. Otherwise they're junk

[@wayner806]

😂

[@wadepatton2433]

DOOD, I've got 7024 in the mail. get some! but 7018 is the good stuff. And I'm destroying Al with TIG at present.

[@norman7179]

I've never been able to get consistent welds with 7014. Guess I just haven't had enough experience with them. I always seem to get inclusions of slag here and there. For me, the 7018 is much more forgiving. (Still waiting for the Teflon tip for easier restrike though LOL !!!)

[@robertpowell2012]

I prefer to do research - read, watch videos, and then go for it and hopefully learn from my mistakes.

[@berwidwhitaker2360]

7024's are made for 1G and 2G axis

[@foggynight]

Have you run 6013? I hear online that 6013 and 7014 are very similar, may need more of a drag angle to push the crap away from puddle.

[@TheDuckofDoom.]

esab 7014 gives an amp range of 70-100 and a high deposition rate just a hair under 1/8" 6010, 11, and 13 (7014 is 7024 with a bit less iron in the flux so the puddle doesn't get quite as big and sloppy when not running completely flat.) As a professional why wouldn't you take a quick look at the spec sheet of a new product before you use it for the first time? And why wouldn't you run a few short strings on a coupon (one each flat, uphill, and downhill) to check your settings are close and get a quick feel for a completely new rod before jumping into the actual project?

[@berwidwhitaker2360]

7024 is fast fill rod...got 50% iron powder in em...Aka jet rod

[@johnmcgowan9903]

70 series rod def a uphill rod

[@robertodebeers2551]

I like 7014 because it restarts so much better than 7018.

[@melvinmariott8609]

I got a grill just like that for my welding rig. 😂😂

[@llyduramax1]

Where do you get those leather kneepads? I use the regular nylon Lowes ones and they don't last not to mention things can get interesting if slag or a spark makes it to the wrong place?

[@arosswelding]

www.amazon.com/shop/austinandkayla/list/2CGVK4MTE25QZ?tag=onamzthekayla-20&ref_=aip_sf_list_spv_ofs_mixed_m

[@arosswelding]

Also for anything else you may be interested in that I use or recommend check out my favorites page here on our website site. www.arosswelding.com/favorites

[@llyduramax1]

@@arosswelding Thanks for the reply! I expected them to be a lot more expensive than that! I’ll have a set on the way!

[@glenngosline3303]

It runs better on AC current or straight polarity

[@powerups5434]

pickle cutter

[@berwidwhitaker2360]

7014's are a fill/freeze just like 7018

[@khFokke1895]

You look like Fantozzi

[@berwidwhitaker2360]

It melts and burns slower than 7018

[@keithgreen3257]

I'm going back to oxy cutting 😮

[@PIOCHENV]

What is 7014 for