Arrma Outcast 6s diff gear breakage

Decided to post a bench vid discussing gear failures, thoughts on solutions...Etc. Noticed cyclical ticking noise from rear diff, discovered a tooth had sheared from rear 43T spiral crown diff gear. Wanted to share useful part numbers others had shared with me from Arrma Forum. Big shout out to forum brothers and Thomas P of Tp-PartsRC-Xtreme for his awesome how to videos on servicing and bulletproofing these fine Arrma rigs. His videos illustrate step by step how to strengthen your diffs and I believe his practices as his bashing is truly extreme! Hope this is somewhat helpful.

[@Backcountrysportsmen]

I’m new to the hobby and just broke my Kraton diff. Thanks so much for explaining it and breaking that info down for me, I think it gave me some confidence to dive into the repair.

[@bikerunner-ry1ju]

This is one of the best tips around the Arrma differentials. Thank you for your efforts. Greetings from Germany

[@richduperbash2966]

bikerunner1909 thanks bro, hope the info proves useful, happy bashing!!!🐒🐒🐒PS love German soccer and beer!

[@bashaz8559]

Try Becks mate the best of the north made in Bremen. Any updates/ new insights on the shimming? Has anyone tried alternative 1/8 planetaries, the savage actually look VERY similar ...they also have a 43t ringgear... There's also a pretty looking erevo gear that looks durable...just wondering if someone had killed the plague by swapping gears, especially planetary? Ring /Pinion Gear Set 5379X a.aliexpress.com/_dT0OmHc

[@MrReyDG]

Thanks Rich for informative video, so far no dif breakage. Been running Typhon (16t) and Kraton (14t) on 2+3s Venom 50c 5000 mah just for bashing.... I also noticed your son's new Typhon shoes ( 2.8 trenchers on proline f11 wheels) looks exactly like mine, great job. Don't forget to tape them before gluing..

[@richduperbash2966]

ReyDg thanks bro. Glad you haven't had any diff breakages yet. I shimmed my Typhon diff after first breakage and it had worked great. Definitely going to tape those Trenchers. I forgot if you told me how you fitted your F11s, did you use hex adapters?

[@luis206xs]

Always with priceless tips... Thanks for sharing bro... Regards from Portugal...

[@nathanielbrown3592]

Thanks Rich I am going with your first option. Thanks for your advice. Keep those videos coming.....

[@richduperbash2966]

Nathaniel Brown no problem man. Think you'll like it.🐒🐒🐒

[@MrReyDG]

Np Rich, glad to help and share.. I also use EZ bedliner spray on Typhon ( 1 coat) for body to strength. It's also flexible and waterproof.. I put (2 coats) on Kraton and it seems to be cracking( the spray) due to the multiple coats. As for the Typhon with one coat, it's holding up really well...

[@richduperbash2966]

ReyDg thanks for that too. I've gotten by with shoe goo and drywall tape, but spray seems much easier. Some guys on the forum also use Flex seal spray, going to give the spray a try.🐒🐒🐒

[@srcparadise3315]

Great info Rich in this older vid...just now watching it. Cheers.

[@richduperbash2966]

sRCparadise thanks brother, I really did start babbling quite a bit...Lol. I've tested the diffs long enough since to really see the difference in longevity and decreased gear failures. Especially with the input and crown gears from the 2 diff case bearing shims. Shout out to Thomas P, his how to vids were a HUGE help for me in getting to know my Arrmas better. 👍👍😵😵😵😱😲💪👊👊

[@MrReyDG]

I too Subbed to Thomas's channel, learnimg alot about Arrma and how to videos..

[@dynasty4851]

I feel the tightness with those extra 2 shims. Thanks Rich!

[@richduperbash2966]

You bet Brother 🤗😎💪👊👊

[@truboy555]

Thanks rich..had to go on the forum to get my rear input shaft out..on outcast

[@thorsrc4170]

Great video. Good advice. I shim all my diff. whit mugen seiki part. E0206. and it works great.

[@richduperbash2966]

Kevin Thorsen thanks bro, they are definitely nice shims.👍👍😵😵😲😱👊

[@jakoberiksen2944]

Great advice rich! Cheers. My outcast startet to make a horrible noise after bashing a skatepark today on 6s, might be one of the diffs. Will changing the oil help while I’m in there? And what thickness? Thinking of gearing up a little as well at some point.

[@bcb22222]

5 years later, I bought a used outcast as my first rc since a first gen emaxx. I've killed all 3 diffs now. Some of it is 6s, some of it is my poor driving, some of it is the unknown abuse before I got the car. (it was pretty beat) Anyway.. Just wanted to say thanks for these. Very informative for idiots like myself.

[@richduperbash2966]

You bet Brandon 🤗. This video was a bit long winded 😂. I made another diff tips video a couple years later that was more hands on. Appreciate it and happy bashing Brother 🍻😎💪👊👊

[@koolaidwaterfountainsforth4236]

I know its a old vid but what do you recommend for better diff seals? The one that seals up the ring gear to the case, if there's one you can use. My center diff is leaky around that seal. Trying to find a better alternative before I go and buy some new arrma ones. Thanks man!

[@tonysmith7989]

Ha, same here. Have all but the Talion, can't believe I didn't get one as the Fireteam was last purchase when $399 and got it instead. Now I want a Talion. 🤣 But back to story my Typhon 6 I made for speed and don't get to run it much not having the space, so if anything breaks on my 6s vehicles the Typhon will be used for spare parts for awhile. The Arrma 6s is definitely the sweet spot for RCs. Even getting rid of my Xmaxx as I have more fun on 6s.

[@tristanhardy2777]

Thank you for this video. I'm still a noob but I'm good at tinkering to find a solution. Will be ''bullet-proofing" all my diffs in my free time this week. (6 diffs. 3 on my outcast and 3 on the one I bought my Dad.)

[@richduperbash2966]

Tristan Hardy your very welcome. I was rambling on quite a bit, but follow Tp-PartsRC-Xtreme vid with the supplied shim part numbers and your golden. I have bashed the living crap out of these diffs and it truly makes a difference. You can still have breakages of course, but they are much less frequent. The 2-3 bearing shims on the crown gear side by Kyosho or Tekno have been awesome in keeping the crown and input gears meshed better. Kyosho's are my favorite, but Tekno TKR 1222 works also. Good luck and props for hooking your pops up, very cool of you to do that.👍👍😵😵😵😲👊

[@tristanhardy2777]

He gets the good stuff. Already dropped in the Voltage Hobby servo mount and the RPM front skid plate on both. I highly recommend the servo mount. Really glad you explained the "mystery shim" as well.... Now I have to figure out where mine rolled to... Getting gear slippage on the rear Diff. Bonehead move on my part.

[@richduperbash2966]

Tristan Hardy just saw your message. So awesome to hook up your Dad like that. Yeah the "mystery shim" had me baffled at first, they are paper thin and easy to lose no doubt. I've done lots of bonehead stuff in my garage, believe me...Lol. Lightly greasing these shims helps them stay put while slipping the diff unit into place and when putting the gear case cover back on. I've spent a good chunk of time, countless hours wrenching and experimenting with these Arrmas, bulletproofing is definitely worth the effort. And pushing that crown gear over into the input more with bearing shims has helped big-time. Changing the input gear is a PITA, definitely helps from breaking those little teeth off when the diffs get torqued from rapid deceleration....ie, hard on throttle landings or moments when the wheels get jammed suddenly. Let me know if you have any questions bud, love bashing and wrenching about equally. 👍👍

[@huckaberryfpv4986]

In literally building my diffs as I watch this..thanks rich,i believe my outkast 2.0 build would be duperbash approved👍🤘💪💪💪👍

[@mathiasjaxson4079]

i dont mean to be so off topic but does anybody know of a method to get back into an Instagram account..? I stupidly forgot my account password. I would love any tricks you can offer me!

[@bryantdakari8678]

@Mathias Jaxson Instablaster ;)

[@mathiasjaxson4079]

@Bryant Dakari Thanks so much for your reply. I found the site on google and im trying it out now. I see it takes quite some time so I will reply here later when my account password hopefully is recovered.

[@mathiasjaxson4079]

@Bryant Dakari it did the trick and I finally got access to my account again. I'm so happy! Thanks so much, you really help me out :D

[@bryantdakari8678]

@Mathias Jaxson No problem xD

[@12R1rcbashr]

very cool video thanks for the info man

[@richduperbash2966]

12R1 Thanks bro.🐒🐒🐒

[@ELValenin]

I've seen (in the arrma forum) that you can use the mugen mbx7 diff gears and ft rear outdrives in the arrma diff cups. Might try that out

[@shaunoutndastix8022]

I'm having some clicking with my Notorious, so I'm searchn to pin point my issue, an lookn for ways to upgrade, so this issue doesn't happen in my future..hope this solves my problem..thnx bub..Great Vid..👑🙏

[@richduperbash2966]

My first reply got erased 😝. Clicking is usually a busted tooth on the input and/or flattened or chipped teeth on the crown gear. Make sure your diff case isn't cracked or the gear cover screws stripped out. That will allow new gears to strip out again. Using 2-3 Tekno #1222 shims on the crown gear side bearing tightens up the mesh and helps prevent gear failures. I did a better diff build video after this one. Only (internal) diff difference is with the V4-V5 diffs, I no longer use extra Mugen satellite shims, just swap out the planetary shims. 🍻😎💪👊👊kzbin.info/www/bejne/a5jcZKCqbd-Jo6M

[@shaunoutndastix8022]

@@richduperbash2966 thanks Rich, il go check the vid out aswel..it researching on my rig for the issue, I had found the left front wheel hub was rounded out on the wheel itself..so I'm going to pull all different an rebuild an shim after watchn ur vid..thnx for the info,Great Advice n Vids bub..🤝🤘👍🙏

[@ryancolebourn3060]

Great vid Rich thanks for sharing. My question for you is why do you suppose Arrma doesn’t build the stock diffs tighter? What are the downsides to tighter diffs that they may be considering? Could it be they want them looser for more speed, less power loss through the drivetrain, longer battery runtime, lower heat buildup on the electronics? Just seems to me that if those things are the tradeoffs, I’d rather deal with those things than busted gears. Curious your thoughts. Thanks.

[@MrReyDG]

Yes I used the Team Associated RC8T wheel hex (#89330)...the pin that comes with these particular hex are too big for Typhon. You can drill the hole bigger or just use the existing Typhon pins which are smaller but the hex set comes with metal O rings that fits on top of pin hole. I put a small dab of paper glue from dollar store just so pin won't move and still be able to take pin out....

[@richduperbash2966]

ReyDg thanks for the info, someone on the Arrma Forum was asking about those I think, I'll share that. Yeah Thomas is rather expert with these rigs. His vids are bad ass, too!

[@FaithisKey792]

Thank you, amazing video. I bought the outcast 3 days back. Now I’m just waiting for the lipo 6s coming from Hong Kong to enjoy my arrma. Is theTURNIGY GRAPHENE 6000MAH 6S 65C LIPO PACK W/ XT90 male connector compatible with the outcast?

[@richduperbash2966]

LUIS FRANCO thanks so much brother👊!!! Yes that XT90 connector comes stock with the 6s lineup. Should work just fine. Enjoy your new Outcast and CONGRATS!!!🤘🤘😲😲😲😵😵😎💪👊👊

[@nickteele169]

So when you snapped a planetary gear did it make a horrendous grinding or lose all function in the diff? My kraton is making a brutal grinding n im ordering all new gears and new shims to replace the shims

[@nathanielbrown3592]

Thanks Rich I will definitely make sure I order v2

[@richduperbash2966]

Nathaniel Brown no problem bro.

[@richduperbash2966]

Nathaniel Brown no problem bro.

[@usausa1467]

Great video did the kyosho shims work when u used 2 of them ??? I changed my rear diff bearing and that shim was all messed up now I keep blowing input gears .... so ima have to try this

[@richduperbash2966]

Reg Lev sorry for the late reply. Yes, you can usually fit 2 Kyosho shims in, but not always. It's the equivalent of using 3 Tekno #1222 shims. I'd say use at least 2 Tekno shims at a minimum. Good luck with it. Stripping inputs gets old quick. I usually put grease on the shims to keep them on the bearing when I carefully seat them in the case.😎💪👊👊

[@FLSharkdiver]

@RichDuperbash - i know this is an old video brother but i AM getting ready to do some maintenance on my shims! I was able to find the KYO96772 - Kyosho 13x16x0.15mm Differential Shim Set for my 6s KRATON & my 6s Notorious... How did these shims work out for you, were you able to stack two on each side or did just 1 work ?

[@richduperbash2966]

I could usually stack 2 of them on each crown gear side bearing. It's nice to also have the thinner Tekno #1222 shims also. Allows you to really fine tune based on different tolerances 🍻😎💪👊👊

[@EastTactics]

If I need to remove some of those metal on metal screws that are super difficult to untighten. With the red red lock. Am I OK to use a Sowder iron to heat it?

[@richduperbash2966]

You bet Brother 👊!!!! I've long used a hot soldering iron to melt threadlocker. It's WAY faster to use a butane torch though. Just be careful not to melt nearby plastics. 😎💪👊👊

[@justincase948]

Great advise man , thanks

[@richduperbash2966]

Justin Rizzo thanks brother. It definitely makes a difference shimming these diffs well. Props again to Thomas P of tpparts-rc Xtreme!!!🙋🙋😲😲😲😵💪👊👊

[@frisofox3555]

Thanx Rich. Great video especially when your new in the rc hobby like me! Could i use steel washers 5x18x0,3 (ar 709024) also instead or is that a stupid question? And did you try the wheeliebar on the Kraton yet?

[@richduperbash2966]

Friso Fox thanks bro, think that part number is for the smaller 4 shims that come stock in the diffs. They work on the satellite gears, planetary shims are the bigger ones. The shims are precision cut steel. Haven't run wheelie bar due to big storm, just put on.

[@frisofox3555]

Rich Duperbash strangly on the Arrma website ar709024 is 3.5x12x0.15mm. On several Dutch hobby websites ar709024 is 5x18x0.3mm. Anyway, i'll go with the TD ones.

[@036mtmax]

Hey Rich, Do you have any videos of the clicking noise? I have a 3 week old V3 Kraton that is making a rotational clicking noise, It sounds more like dog bone noise but idk.

[@richduperbash2966]

Hey Brother 👊. I don't have any vids demonstrating specific noises🤔. I've had gears strip a tooth or 2 during video shoots where the noise was apparent. The dog bones do chatter a lot on the 6s rigs and that's normal 👍. I'd check to see your motor mesh didn't come loose 🤔. Stripped or chipped gears make a cyclical clicking noise, especially on throttle. Can sometimes be harsh slipping on throttle. With time you'll get better at differentiating and pinpointing issues. Big enough issues usually cause a noticable change in performance. Hope this helps some. 😎💪👊👊

[@rcfundyer5739]

Great video as always do you recommend doing the same thing to the diffs in the 4s model's as well any info is greatly appreciated thanks

[@richduperbash2966]

Thanks Brother 👊!!!! The 3-4s diffs are designed so uniquely I'm not sure any additional shims would be doable or beneficial 🤔. The biggest thing I've discovered is quickly replacing the slipper box and front/rear input gear bearings with rubber sealed. The stock ones tend to foul and seize a bit easily. I'll let you know if I come up with or hear of any useful mods. 🍻😎💪👊👊

[@rcfundyer5739]

@@richduperbash2966 thanks so much for the advice much appreciated can't wait to see more of your videos have a great day

[@MoBay876rc]

Hello I have a arrma TYPHON on I only have 2wd only in the rear but it's a speen runner what could that be only ran it 4 times since owning it!

[@SilverGearRC02]

NICE VIDEO!

[@LouSidGames]

Hey bud sorry for all the questions but what do you put in the diff case for grease?

[@rockyrc9942]

Rich can you please help me i have had nothing but diff problems lately 😔 my 1st diff i blew up the inside gears (my fault was running super hard on punch level 9) my 2nd diff i stripped the spur gear and input gear and last night I was doing a shakedown and yet again it sounds like the spur geat stripped out i already shimmed it per your specs should I try to another outer shim ? Any info helps thank you

[@earlmoorhead5555]

Great info 👍👍🔥🔥🔥

[@richduperbash2966]

Thanks Earl 🤗. I almost deleted it cuz I was rambling on and jumping topic so much 😝🤣🤣. I posted a more focused hands on diff tips vid later. 🍻😎💪👊👊kzbin.info/www/bejne/a5jcZKCqbd-Jo6M

[@earlmoorhead5555]

Rich Duperbash ok thanks 🙏 it will help a lot 👍👍🔥🔥🔥

[@GBigToe]

Thanks for the advice these diffs, something wrong with my Outcast rear diff so doing some research before I tear it down, what diff oil weight do you use in your Outcast, Arrma forum says popular is 70k/100k/30k front to back??

[@althomas314]

I wrote down 50/200/20 from a kraton video he did if that helps

[@richduperbash2966]

Sorry I missed your message Matt 👀. I'm running 50/200/20K front to rear. Works great for me overall. 🍻🚀🚀😎💪👊👊

[@gonzodetroitify]

@@richduperbash2966 thank you Rich is it also needed to shim the stock input gear that meshes with the crown🥺

[@86mld]

What servo are you useing with your voltage hobbies servo mount wanting to upgrade to SW1210SG and I have a voltage hobbies mount

[@richduperbash2966]

Matts Rc Addiction still running stocker for now, seems to strip less from what I hear after mount upgrade. Turns Backflip tires fine for me, anything heavier and I'd probably want to upgrade. Already spent a grip on spare parts and rebuilds. Did splurge for 2 Nero motors off Amazon, 50$ each. Going to try in Kraton, then Outcast most likely.

[@harisbennington4058]

Sorry rich I’m new, so is it all you do is that you insert some spacers into the diff so that there is less play ?

[@ELValenin]

I've already broken three main diff gears (the ones outside the diff with 43 teeth). Do you have any trick to keep that from breaking or an upgrade part???

[@nelsonmarques1334]

I added shims on the diff case bearing, on the side of the ring gear. That tightens the slack between the ring gear and the diff pinion. Never broke a ring gear after that. And I ride a lot on very high grip skate parks, and always on 6s. But I'm breaking a lot of pins and planetaries on the front diff. Trying to solve that at the moment

[@ELValenin]

@@nelsonmarques1334 okay, thanks. For the pins - I found this: kzbin.info/www/bejne/jYGrnZeorK2rgac I also have the same Issue as you now, but in the rear diff... I'll try these self-made pins out. (the broken pins might actually be breaking the planitary gears)

[@nirklir]

Do you know if 20mm shim fits? (5X20X0.2)

[@rcsendandblast1579]

Rich I just got my new basher the Arrma Granite 3s truck. The front shocks don't feel so well. So I wanted to ask what weight of oil you put in the front and rear. And is there anything I should do upon buying the truck. I fully trust your word bro. And thank you MEGA for all your help. Without you I would not have such videos like this for me to learn from. What you are doing for us newbies is Epic bro. Have a wonderful day man. Peace. ❤️👊😎

[@richduperbash2966]

Congrats on the Granite 3s Michael 👊!!! The shocks are a great design, but I've found they're starting to leak with the bigger airs I'm doing anyways 😨. I actually just swapped on spare Typhon V2 shocks with 35 weight oil on my Senton. Still running the Tekno eb48.4 shocks on my Granite now. I'd recommend going up with the stock oil to at least 60 weight. Stock is 40, but it leaves the shocks very bouncy. Other than that, I'd recommend the rubber sealed slipper bearings I posted about in my upgrade vid a couple weeks back. Passing out for the night 👊. Catch up with you later my friend.🍻😎💪👊👊

[@rcsendandblast1579]

Rich Duperbash 👊😎awesome Brutha. I think it's going to be 80 weight for now because that's all I have. Hope that's good. But that may be a bit stiff for me. I have to buy more shock oil. Anywho the bearing for the slipper will be my first purchase. And some oil. Thanks bro. Have a great night ✌️🙂

[@tonytighttucker]

for the diff you said to put 2 small shims on the outside of the bearing two of them do you do that for the center differential or that is just for the front and rear diffs

[@richduperbash2966]

Anthony Husbands I only do this for the front and rear diffs to close the gap between the crown and main input gears. This has definitely helped spare these gears from losing teeth...Lol. I can usually only fit 2 shims in, but if you can fit 3 without forcing it, that's probably good too. Now the only time I break a tooth there is if the center outdrive cup comes totally loose or my kids really abuse the throttle doing high speed rolling backflips...Lol. Anything that really suddenly jambs both fronts or rear tires at the same time (hard throttle pinned against a fence head on) puts these gears at risk regardless of shimming. 😵😵😵😲👍👊👊

[@AdrenalineAshRC]

Hey brother I can’t manage to get my main input gear off it’s stuck . I’ve take off the grub screw but still doesn’t come off Any ideas on how to take it off ?

[@AdrenalineAshRC]

Update... I managed to take it off in the end watched one of your videos and I used heat to get it off, thanks brother 😎👊🏼

[@danieldelrie4387]

Do you think i should run the 13 tooth straight or the 10 spiral i know the 13 straight would gear up but what one is the most durable

[@richduperbash2966]

Hey Daniel 👍. The spiral cut 10 tooth input gear (and matching crown gear) is stronger. Spiral gears have greater surface area contact. They're best for the Kraton, Outcast, and Talion. The lighter Typhon and Senton do fine with the 13T straight cut. Just don't ever mix the straight and spiral cut gears together. 🍻😎💪👊👊

[@TONELOVE1165]

I purchased an arrma notorious recently and I'm trying to build it up to your outcast/Notorious truck... The solidering iron trick, how long do I'll hold it on the screw for ?

[@richduperbash2966]

Congrats on your Notorious 😜!!!! The soldering iron can take 2 plus minutes to heat up the screw enough depending on the iron itself. I do it until I smell threadlock melting or see a small waff of smoke. It's faster to heat the screw briefly with a butane torch. Takes only seconds 👍. I've since switched to using the torch most times. 🍻😎💪👊👊

[@TONELOVE1165]

@@richduperbash2966 Thanks man, I've been watching your channel for a while now... I wanted to buy a brcc, but I grew impatient and purchased the Notorious instead... I'd like to clone your outcast/ Notorious in baby steps...

[@yz125ryder]

Wow. First time I have seen a differential gear broken on the Outcast. Did you bump the esc punch on the outcast? or was that your kraton? either way, running 6s and having those backflip tires with all the traction must be hard on the gears! Maybe I will turn the punch down once mine arrives... I dont want it doing constant wheelies.

[@richduperbash2966]

yz125ryder I had just bumped it up to 9, but hadn't tested it yet. Outcast had always been driven on stock setting of punch 4. Spun the wheels and heard clicking, knew something was up. Bearings were fine, main input diff cup was tight, shaft straight...etc. Only run 6s with 16 pinion so she moves good, plenty fast. Hopefully external diff shims will help avoid a repeat, that 43T gear is 20.00$ and input gear is 10-13$. Will fully shim all my diffs when parts arrive. It's cheaper and less downtime to bulletproof them before repeated failures especially if you bash hard.

[@JohnFHendry]

So the diffs need shimming out of the box? Huge difference in gear life having the play set right but figured that was past history.

[@richduperbash2966]

John F Hendry I wouldn't say they need shimming. It's just there seems to be a tad more play then necessary from planetary gears to outputs and from main input gears to crown gears. Overall, if bashing hard on 6s I think it's a good idea to further shim to prolong gear and diff life.

[@JohnFHendry]

Rich Duperbash Yes, I guess when you are in a hurry that last bit of perfection comes at a price in time you don't have... really surprised these are not available in kits. Rather do it myself like a lot of people I'm sure.

[@richduperbash2966]

John F Hendry you're right. Something's can't be rushed for sure. They are also overthreadlocking and overtorquing some parts, but all in all Arrma is making some really fun and durable bashers.

[@kelleys0007]

Nice video! I would have loved to see how you got the diff out as I have never opened up my outcast yet and couldn't figure out an easy way. I cant wait to change the Diff fluid. What weights are you using for the 3 diff's. Thanks.

[@richduperbash2966]

Aby Joseph thanks bro. Been running front to rear 50/100/20k, has worked well, may try 150 center next go. Front/rear diffs pull straight out. Just remove wheels and lower shock pins, loosen sway bar attachments at each side, remove 4 diff case bolts facing you and diff cover pops off, pull on attached swaybar and cover will release easier. Center diff involves removing 3 motor mount screws and 2 metal to plastic diff brace screws, all from under chassis. Use lots of heat on metal to metal to break threadlocker or you may strip. Once you do it once or twice, gets pretty easy with reverse assembly. Manual has accurate pictograms, but not overly helpful for sure. Tp-PartsRC-Xtreme has great how to videos. Been most helpful for me personally.

[@kelleys0007]

Rich Duperbash, I can't thank you enough for the detailed explanation!! This is all I need to get started!! Thanks a ton!

[@richduperbash2966]

Aby Joseph no problem bro. Just don't strip screws!!! If they don't loosen somewhat easily after heat, stop and use more heat. The gun I showed in the video has made disassembly way easier for me, gets very hot. Good luck and take your time. Can't rush learning these awesome rigs.🐒🐒🐒

[@kelleys0007]

Thanks Rich, I will definitely use the heat gun on the three screws you showed on the video. I am starting with the front diff and the wheels are already giving me a hard time. Its like, its super-glued to the axel rod, LOL. Anyway, I am in no hurry as I haven't even bought the diff fluids yet.

[@richduperbash2966]

Aby Joseph some some reason the Outcast Backflips were bored slightly smaller than Kraton wheels even though they share the same hex's. They are likely overtorquing them with a driver and smashing plastic into hex threads. I ended up standing on my wheels carefully with truck on side, grabbing near hubs and having to rock back and forth to finally break them free. Others have used a hobby knife to cut near threads slightly to unjamb plastic. However you get them off, be sure to sand, Dremel, or file wheel hole slightly with round file or sandpaper on a pencil to debur wheel hole for easier fit. If not, you'll have the same problem again. Many people have had this problem sorry to say.

[@86mld]

Did adding the extra shims help out with play on the diffs? The ones you was shimming on the gear boxes

[@richduperbash2966]

Matts Rc Addiction I took the rear diff apart after the vid to change fluid and check gears, decided to wait for planetary shims to arrive, were supposed to arrive today from Tower, hopefully early tomorrow. I misplaced my only Team Durango shims. There's no doubt that shimming will tighten up diff internally and externally. Tested great on my Typhon in the past, just never tried externally on the the crown gear side with bearing shims. I'll post running vid with feedback after Outcast is shimmed up, gears get expensive and really want to wear them out slowly having fun, not break them.🐒🐒🐒

[@86mld]

Rich Duperbash thanx I'm ordering all my parts this weekend figured if I was going fix my broken rear end mines as well bullet proof all my diffs thanx for the video

[@richduperbash2966]

Matts Rc Addiction your welcome bro, hopefully bulletproofing helps durability some.🐒🐒🐒

[@kirkleaman6863]

Great video thanks

[@richduperbash2966]

Kirk Leaman thanks brother 👊!!! I got rambling about on this one...Lol😜. Appreciate it. 🍻🤘🤘😎💪👊👊

[@olds97lss]

I think I broke something in a diff recently on my v2 outcast. Under hard acceleration, I get a loud pop sound, not like POP POP POP, just a single POP. I think out of habit, I let off the throttle. I figured it was a tooth busted off a pinion/ring gear on the rear diff since that's where all the traction is. I just took it apart, pulled the spider gears and I'm not seeing any missing teeth. The sun gears seem fine as well. Also see nothing really on the ring/pinion. Bearings are tight as well. I ran this truck twice with stock oil/shims, then did a full tear down of all 3 diffs, cleaned out the fluid in them, used the mugen shim kit on all 3 diffs as well as 100k/500k/100k oil. I also removed the stock single shim on the diff bearing itself and replaced it with 2 of the kyosho shim on the ring gear side on both the front/rear diffs. I guess I'll do the front diff next and see what's going on in there. I hate messing with the center diff on the outcast. I have a new diff coming in the mail already. Ordered it on ebay before I left the bash area. I'm used to shimming diffs, I've had savage's in pretty much every from but the octane and it's known to have sloppy diffs that die. Especially the old smaller tooth diffs. Anyway, I'm curious how it sounded when your sun gears split. I've never had that happen before, so I don't know the sound. Considering the tooth size on the sun/spiders, I'm not expecting it to have a deep pop sound like I was hearing, so guessing it may be the front diff, which is odd as when your under hard acceleration, the front end has less traction than the rear, so was expecting a tooth missing on the ring or pinion in the rear diff.

[@richduperbash2966]

Bryan L I can't say there's a definitive sound when the sun or planetary gears pop. Often times the rig will keep running without issue. They tend to split right where the set pin sits. If the gear isn't displaced it will still function. Once it's moved or the set pin breaks, you'll notice immediately that something isn't right with the driving. Pinpointing diff problems or sounds can be challenging. A single pop sound could be a quick gear slippage most likely from the front or rear diff. I've found my gears to appear ok only to discover a cracked diff case or stripped diff cover. That allows the crown gear to push off the input gear on harder throttle. The other pop noise can happen when an input cup is slipping on the input gear. I'd make sure your grub screw is fully seated on the flat spot. Next would be to closely inspect the sides and bottom portion of the diff cases for hairline cracks. Usually if the bottom area has fractured, it becomes obvious when removing it off the chassis plate. I don't think the problem is inside your diff cups. If the wheels are counter rotating by hand smoothly left to right and you're not losing front or rear wheel drive, my best guess is the crown and input separating. 🍻🤘🤘😎💪👊👊

[@olds97lss]

Listening to my footage from yesterday, there's a constant "tick tick tick" as it rolls by me under power. I inspected the rear case today and I'm not seeing any cracks or anything. I'll tear the front end apart and see what I see there next. Thanks for the help.

[@olds97lss]

It was the front. I don't understand why though, running 4S. I don't recall landing on high power and I have 2 shims on the ring gear side, it can't move left/right at all, so I can't fit a 3rd shim in. Took the tips off a couple teeth: gmarquee98.x10host.com/myPics/98gmarquee/Outcast/2018-0820-OutcastFrontRingDamage.JPG Anyone putting shims behind the pinion to push it out further into the ring gear?

[@richduperbash2966]

Bryan L I'm glad you found the problem brother 😱!!! I'm not always able to get 3 shims on the crown gear side either. Especially with the V3 stuff. Seems like the tolerances may be a tad tighter🤔. I'd replace that gear or it will chew up your input. It's possible both front wheels had rapid deceleration going up and over something abrupt 🤔 or the teeth simply gave out/chipped. Despite "bulletproofing" the diffs through shimming, crap still happens😨. Either way, I'm glad you're getting it sorted🍻😎💪👊👊

[@olds97lss]

Yeah, I'm going to replace both as I ordered a complete diff assembly off ebay. I also ordered some 8mm .5mm thick shims to maybe put one or two behind the pinion to push it into the ring gear a bit more. Will see how it spins when dry and make sure there's still a small tick of play. I just don't want this thing to become like my savage was 15 years ago before BP diffs came out. I hate dealing with diffs.

[@juantabby4787]

I've been through 5 center diffs. The casings came apart where the bearing holds the front in the mount. Switched to rc8.2 diffs.

[@richduperbash2966]

Dixiecupdean thanks a lot for that, did you swap all 3 diffs and cases or just center?

[@juantabby4787]

Rich Duperbash no just the center. Shim it on the spur gear side so there's no play.

[@ddd228]

I'm surprised that Kyosho uses strait cut gars!

[@supersingular]

I have a huge problem. How did you take off the wheels of the Outcast?

[@richduperbash2966]

Manuel Rendon this has become a common issue discussed on Arrma Forum. I heated my wheels gently with a heat gun near hex's, stood truck on side, had to stand on wheel carefully with both feet and pull near hubs rocking back and forth to loosen wheels off axels, total PITA! Once off use Dremel or round file to debur wheel hole for easier fit.

[@fpvandgasrc4321]

Hey man great video question for you I just ordered a new rear diff for my kraton V4 and the external shim that you're talkin about to bring the ring gear closer to the input shaft is on my diff. My question is when I spin the input shaft there is a rough spot when it reaches a certain point on the ring gear so when you turn the input shaft it is smooth up until a certain point then it gets hard and crunchy if I remove the external shim on the ring gear side it gets rid of that crunchiness in that one spot but it makes the rear diff gear mesh loser. So I don't know what to do on this rear diff

[@richduperbash2966]

Thanks brother 👍. I'd take a very close look at the rough spot. Just make sure the teeth aren't chipped or flattened. If so, I'd replace the ring gear cuz it's likely going to strip and slip. Could be the gear isn't sitting totally flat on the diff cup or is wobbling slightly during rotation with the input. I'm ok with my diffs spinning a little snug by hand because they usually settle in under power. Ultimately, use your best judgement on adding the bearing shims. I still like to use 2-3 Tekno #1222 bearing shims both front and rear depending on the tolerances. 🍻😎💪👊👊

[@fpvandgasrc4321]

@@richduperbash2966 thanks for the reply I'm pretty good with shimming but I noticed this on a used rear diff and I purchased a new complete diff and housing all put together from Arma never used so it seems strange that the gears would be flattened or messed up from the factory so I'm not sure what to do should I have it really crunchy and tight or a little bit loose with the mesh... cause i know its better to have a looser mesh than a tighter mesh so the gears wont wear..

[@richduperbash2966]

@@fpvandgasrc4321 if there's some flattened teeth, I'd probably run it a bit tight so the gears are less likely to slip and grind down. Just cake it with quality marine grease 👍

[@Pills161]

Recently got a V3 Kraton and shimming the diffs and replacing the diff fluid was one of the first things I did to it based on all of the forum posts and youtube vids I looked at before buying. I went with the Mugen shim set EO206 and did the 4 total shims for each diff (two planetary and two satellite) . Hopefully I don't have any gear issues like this.

[@richduperbash2966]

Pills161 Congrats on the V3 Kraton 😱!!! I'm actually building up a new V3 myself right now 👌. The Team Durango shims were discontinued so Mugen seiki is all I've used for over a year now👊. Shimming and maintaining the diffs definitely helps big-time. It's still possible to break or strip gears, but much less common. Best of luck with your Kraton brother 👊!!! She's a BEAST 😨🤘🤘😰😰😰😎💪👊👊

[@Pills161]

@@richduperbash2966 Revisiting this video I recently stripped a motor mount screw just like you stated and had to drill it out :( although I did save the mount though by drilling out the rest of that screw. It took a while but using a bit small enough to not destroy the hole threads was able to get the rest. $30 for that mount nee blah no thanks

[@richduperbash2966]

Pills161 stripped screws are such a friggin pain 😨. Red threadlocker has no place on these rigs. Think Jenny's RC has the mounts for 6-8$. 😎💪👊👊

[@ELValenin]

@@richduperbash2966 hi rich, how comes it that I haven't shimmed my diffs and never broke one in 3 months of ownership!? I drive every week 2-10 packs and mainly 6s

[@richduperbash2966]

@@ELValenin not shimming isn't a death sentence for your gears. Many factors lead to or contribute to gear failures; underfilled diffs, terrain, driving style, or sometimes pure circumstance 🤔. Not all diff cases, diffs/cups will have identical tolerances. Some diffs may not need shimming. Overall, I've had less gear failures by adding shims for a snugger mesh. The V4's are now shimmed differently out of the box. They added shims behind the planetary gears and on the diff outdrives. I'm still experimenting to see what works better over time. 😎💪👊👊

[@FarmPrepper1]

In the full size vehicle racing world, what you guys do with these differentials is Allen setting the lash. To much and they thrash about an knock each other's teeth out like a schoolyard fight at recess. To little and they grind bind till they effectively wear each other out. It be nice to have lash measurements that would be a joy. Or Maybe we can create some ? Mr. Bash?

[@richduperbash2966]

Phill Stoffer these input gears are so small it's Crazy!!! I'd rather have them snug cuz any slop or separation tends to break teeth clean off. Shimming the internal diffs and adding bearing shims on the crown gear side has totally reduced my gear breakages. I still always check that they aren't "tight" and operate smoothly. As they gears settle and wear, they end up near perfect.😎💪👊👊

[@FarmPrepper1]

Rich Duperbash you are correct about tight being better than loose. More times than not. Tight will wear in. Loose will shatter and basically implode as you have shown so well in this vid. ✌

[@FarmPrepper1]

Rich Duperbash exactly. I did the same thing here but it was too late. Also. The box with Talion just arrived.

[@richduperbash2966]

Phill Stoffer did you get a 2018??? 🤔🤔

[@FarmPrepper1]

Rich Duperbash Yes its a 2018.. Shoot a message to Gary and snag my contact info. Swap ya some shots of my flight crew and the new cars.

[@cl-audio322]

Hey Rich next time you are going over a diff can you get in more detail how you know when and how much shimming you should do? I know how to shim and where to place them, but I'm not locked on how to know how many to use and best ways to test the fitment. I don't want to just shim for the sake of it but shim for the need of my particular vehicle. Thanks as always for these tutorials.

[@richduperbash2966]

You bet Brother 👊. This older vid was pretty crappy 🤣. I definitely rambled on and jumped topics. Shimming is mostly by feel. Don't want your diffs notchy or too tight. Also don't really want excess slop in the outdrives. I did a more detailed diff vid awhile back with basic build tips. 😎💪👊👊

[@cl-audio322]

@@richduperbash2966 Thanks my dude. I've watched all your vids and about twenty others regarding shimming lol. Plenty to be found on how to do it but not so much in explaining/demonstrating that "feel" you speak of to know where and how much shimming to do. It seems like everyone just does the 2-1 shims inside the diff, And all over the place with the bearing shims outside the diff.

[@jracer7189]

I’m having a similar issue however my outcast sounds like it’s slipping gears likes it’s barely making contact slipping the wheels not sure what it could be I’ve added heavier oil to all the diffs. And shimmed them still getting the same result thanks

[@richduperbash2966]

If you're hearing grinding/slipping, it's likely a front or rear diff issue. If more so on acceleration then braking, it's probably the rear. If the gears look healthy, could be a cracked diff case allowing the gears to spread apart on throttle. If any teeth look flattened or chipped, they need replacing.

[@pstwenty1]

What do you think about my gess in diff oil? I ordered 30k rear/100k center/50kfront? I live in Canada, having 4 months of cold weather.I don't want to change diff oil twice a year and I also need power in summer time.

[@richduperbash2966]

Sylvain Grenier should work AWESOME. I'm running 50/100/20k front to rear and it works great. 🍻😎💪👊👊

[@pstwenty1]

Rich Duperbash, What weather conditions (temperature) did you try with that recipe?

[@richduperbash2966]

Sylvain Grenier I've run this setup in temps between about 35-110F. Live near Sacramento, CA. Don't get snow or freezing temps here. Keep in mind the diffs warm up tremendously during hard running regardless of ambient temps.👊

[@ClashingwithTofu]

Rich - I’m doing my research before I purchase an Arrma, what forum website are you referring to? Thx

[@richduperbash2966]

bradleungphoto just Google Arrma Forum, has a big red AF logo. Great resource for everything Arrma no doubt. Tons of tips, tricks, threads, and great people. If you search Rich Duperbash Arrma Forum should link you through different topics. The Kraton is a GREAT first Arrma BTW.🙋🙋😲😲😲😵😵😱😎💪👊👊

[@ClashingwithTofu]

Rich Duperbash thank, I found the link. Love your outcast videos but I was leaning towards a set of Kraton’s for my 11 year old twins

[@richduperbash2966]

bradleungphoto thanks brother!!! The Kraton would probably be a better choice for them. It's WAY more stable both on the ground and for mid-air control. Really is a bash anywhere BEAST. Might want to keep them on 4s for starters depending on their experience and skill level. I say the same for many grownups, too. These rigs are still fast and can be geared quite tall on 4s for higher speeds. 6s can get dicey unless they can really respect the power in their hands and not hit each other or anyone else...Lol. Good luck with it and keep me posted!!! 😎💪👊👊

[@ClashingwithTofu]

Rich Duperbash - happy to report that we got a kraton and typhoon both latest versions. Thanks so much for your videos and advice, truly informative and invaluable!

[@richduperbash2966]

bradleungphoto that's AWESOME!!! Both are great RC's no question about it. I'm glad the vids have been helpful my friend 😁. Don't forget to check out Thomas P of tpparts-rc Xtreme and his series of How to vids. It's all great stuff specific to Arrmas. He is a Killer basher, RC genius, and friend 🍻. His vids really helped me personally when I was new to the brand. Good luck with them and feel free to hit me up with any questions.😎💪👊👊

[@jstagzsr]

is the shimming still relevant with the v4? i have my esc maxed out (punch level 9). itll wheelie on wet pavemnet all day.. i havent had any issues whatsoever with the v4 6s typhon, but im wondering if i shim it if itll last even longer?? or did Arrma take care of that with the v4? idk what all the upgrades were from v3 to v4. but i see so many peopel shimming the v3's, youd think they would have taken care of it in the v4.. but id still rather be safe than sorry.

[@richduperbash2966]

Great question Joshua 👊. The V4''s were a big improvement. No real need to add internal shims. I still like running 2-3 bearing shims TKR1222 on the crown gear side bearing to snug the mesh between the crown and input gears. Internally, I still prefer the Mugen Seiki E0206 planetary shims more than the V4 ones, but the V4 is a vast improvement. 🍻😎💪👊👊

[@jstagzsr]

@@richduperbash2966 cool man. thanks for the reply. im gonna grab me some of those mugens.

[@carlofois2229]

Richduperdash hope you are well? I had my kraton on shelf for a bit took it out with my son yesterday . The car don't feel right felt bit low on drive power i noticed a crunch sound coming from the car however pulled the diffs out oil looks a little low but no damaged even to the Input gears or diff gears!!! My drive cup at front has come loose a few times and tightened it up!!! Also the bearing on centre diff on the centre front drive cup has abit of play in it also!!! Do you have any ideas? I'm going to clean diffs out and check spider gears👍 cheers rich

[@richduperbash2966]

carlo fois wish I had an easy answer for you bro...Lol. Sometimes a bad bearing can wreak havoc or a broken planetary gear hasn't displaced yet, but is wobbling around a tad and grinding/binding intermittently. You may need to go diff by diff to pinpoint the source. Diff bearings do go out unnoticed sometimes, especially the front and rear smaller input ones. I usually start with the center diff when I'm not sure and go from there. Clicking or speed based rhythmic ticking usually means a missing crown and/or input gear tooth. Good luck tracking it down and get back to me, I'm curious now.👍👍👊

[@carlofois2229]

Rich Duperbash cheers glad you got the typhoon nearly done. I'm in the same boat if I'm not plastering or roofing!!! I'm trying to fix my rigs. I will do what you said start with the centre bearings and do the diff fluid see how I get on I checked diffs and planetary gears all looked good it's bugging me I will keep you posted give me a week or so will start work this week.👍 thanks for your advice appreciate it rich I know your too gun on these rigs.

[@richduperbash2966]

carlo fois hey I forgot to mention, be sure and check your gear mesh first if you didn't already. Sometimes the motor/pinion will shift into the spur if the motor mount screws come loose. Too tight a mesh sounds awful, lowers your speeds drastically, and really heats up your temps quick...Lol. You may have checked already, but if not, definitely start there.👍👍👊

[@FLSharkdiver]

I want to rebuild my front diff cases on my 6s #KRATON & 6s #Notorious! Do you know if this is the correct part number - F/R DIFF SET 43T STRAIGHT (1PC) #AR220028 (ARAC4015)?

[@richduperbash2966]

The Kraton/Outcast/Talion all use 43T "spiral cut" crown and 10T input gears. That must be for the Typhon/Infraction. 🍻😎💪👊👊

[@michaelmcmenzie6928]

The shims will help but you need to put a heavier Diff oil to keep those gears in check

[@TpPartsRcXtreme]

Rich, im very very honored that you mentioned me, makes ma face look like a tomato 🤗. Like the video, sharp as few, good 👊. subed and liked bro

[@richduperbash2966]

Tp-Parts Rc-Xtreme, I hoped you wouldn't mind Thomas. I sort of started rambling during the vid...lol. I love your vids and owe you a big thanks for your great How to vids. They've been extremely helpful to me in becoming more knowledgeable with these awesome Arrma rigs. Thanks again for sharing your expertise and innovative ideas. And thanks for the sub, too.🐒🐒🐒

[@TpPartsRcXtreme]

Rich Duperbash thank you mate. glad you and other enjoy it. awsm quality and effort in this one sir 👌🤗

[@richduperbash2966]

You're very welcome Thomas, your sub is a huge honor. PS, if you need a good laugh, watch my Traxxas Backslash Epic Fail off huck ramp vid. Pretty short, but ending is pretty damn funny...lol.🐒🐒🐒

[@TpPartsRcXtreme]

Rich Duperbash will do Rich will do 🤗😊

[@carlosgabin5215]

Rich Wouldn’t you think that pushing the gears in closer together, towards the center wouldn’t work as well because the teeth on the gears are not as deep towards the center. Maybe it has to do because it’s just all tighter then again would that b better in the long run all the friction? Just gotta try n see how has this worked out still holding strong?

[@richduperbash2966]

I can say 100% this method definitely helps strengthen the V1-V3 diffs and achieve far better longevity👍. My later diff video was much more specific with detailed tips than this one was. I rambled on like Crazy here 😂. For the V4-5 diffs, I only swap the stock planetary shims for the wider Mugen Seiki ones as ARRMA added both planetary and new outdrive shims. (I don't add any satellite gear shims with V4-5 models). I still swear by using 2-3 Tekno #1222 crown gear side bearing shims front and rear to all models including the EXB. This has definitely helped spare busted teeth along with good throttle use, healthy bearings, appropriate wheels, and semiregular diff maintenance. Shimming is ultimately by feel, but I'd rather start a bit snug until the gears break in and settle. 😎💪👊👊

[@carlosgabin5215]

@@richduperbash2966 dam bro u always help out too much lol a simple answer would have been fine LOL but honestly this was awesome thanks for the great info and super duber quick response!

[@richduperbash2966]

@@carlosgabin5215 you bet Brother 👊. If I don't respond it's because I didn't get notified via KZbin or I'm at work 🤗. I've realized I miss a s.hit ton of messages unfortunately.

[@SpeedSyko]

My one wheel free spins on notorious no grinding, haven’t takin it out. My typhon never Breaks but use small tires

[@jovanortiz1317]

My rear end on the talion just gave up so its front wheel drive what you think it happen!!

[@richduperbash2966]

Could be the rear output cup grub screw came loose. If the rear drive shaft spins off the ground, that would be my guess. Other possible issue is a busted center diff rear planetary gear set pin. If you're hearing nasty grinding, could also be a badly stripped rear input/crown gear. 🍻😎💪👊👊

[@abdullatheef3613]

Hi rich, my Input Gear Main 10T Spiral (AR310498) on the arrma kraton is failing repeatedly , more often on front even with shiming the crown side bearing and only on 4S packs , is there a solution this problem.much appreciated

[@richduperbash2966]

abdul latheef that's a bummer to hear my friend. One thing that can destroy the front gear easily even when shimmed is hammering the throttle into rock piles, steep gravel mounds or anything that can quickly bind the front wheels momentarily and over tax that little gear. Same with nose landings on throttle. Mechanical reasons could be a faulty or cracked gearbox, failing bearings, or a slipping main output cup. I'd make sure all the bearings are healthy and your crown gear is securely tightened down on the diff cup. Another possibility is your diff cover isn't fully seated correctly. Often the screws feel snugged down, but the cover isn't actually completely flush with the gearbox 100%. When you replace your input gear, make sure to keep firm pressure on it against the bigger diff bearing while you fully seat the output cup and thread lock the grub screw. There shouldn't be any play when you tighten it down. Not sure what else to recommend. Hope this helps bro.😎💪👊👊

[@GurveerModelMaker]

Love from Punjab, india

[@tommyd3jr]

Hey bud! I finally broke down ma kraton last night (been down for awhile).. Rebuilt all 3 diff and added thicker oil.. Got it all done and I'm still getting a gringin noise when accelerating and breaking! I'm stumped bro! Any thoughts??

[@richduperbash2966]

tommyd3jr I'd start by making sure you're front and rear input cup grub screws are sitting flat on the input shafts and are fully seated. They can break free and start slipping. The other thought is making certain your diff case covers are sitting flush on the outdrive bearings and that all 4 diff cover screws are fully locked down. Obviously you don't want to strip them by over tightening them, but if the cover is not sealed all around, the diff can get pushed away from the input gear under load and slip and strip. Are you sure you're input and crown gears looked healthy when you dropped your diffs back in???

[@tommyd3jr]

Rich Duperbash Thx for the feedback bro! If the input cups came loose would it make that grinding noise tho?

[@tommyd3jr]

Rich Duperbash I will take a look at everything else after the Jet game.. I'll get back to u and lyk how i make out

[@tommyd3jr]

Rich Duperbash It's a pretty violent grinding sound.. When i break hard or pull the trigger

[@richduperbash2966]

tommyd3jr yeah slipping cups are looking are less likely if it's violent grinding. Probably a toasted crown and pinion gear.🤔🤔😨

[@salvatorejoltgallo]

measurement of the cross pin 3×24?? and of the satellite holes 3?

[@72Z15SS]

Good vid Rich!

[@richduperbash2966]

72Z15SS thanks bro, a bit long and rambly, hope it's helpful to some, can't wait to get all my rigs dialed when I get more planetary shims.🐒🐒🐒

[@72Z15SS]

I just can't wait for this East Coast weather to warm up! Stuff gets brittle when it's in the teens...

[@richduperbash2966]

No kidding, we aren't that cold in CA, but all my bash spots are flooded/soaked, too much rain again expecting more. Still working on switching to sealed Avids, don't feel like mud bashing at the moment, need to fix 1/1 car first, tired of driving minivan, too slow.

[@zsaxeshed5743]

Hey man you can use a drimmel tool on a stripped ever head,to make it have a flat head I've had lots of luck backing screws out this way

[@richduperbash2966]

Thanks so much Brother 👊. Got some good cutting discs a long while back that work perfectly on the Dremel for that👌. Hammering in a torx bit and using a socket wrench also works great. 🍻😎💪👊👊

[@zsaxeshed5743]

Yea man hey btw I love your vids man you get some sick air,I jus orderd a kraton so it's the V3 should be here ina week,dude I can't wait! Thanks for all this info..bash on brother man

[@richduperbash2966]

@@zsaxeshed5743 thanks Bro👊. And BIG congrats on your new V3👀🤘🤘

[@derekquinones8614]

Which shims do you recommend me using please give me exact part number please and should I just shim the back or front 2? And what diff fluid you think I should use thanks slot for your videos you know your stuff I'm learning I've learned a lot from you and a couple other guys also thanks a lot man!!!!! Keep bashing arrma rocks!!

[@richduperbash2966]

Derek Quinones I shim all 3 internal diffs the same way as Thomas P of "Tp-PartsRC-Xtreme" in his bulletproofing diffs vid. He lists Team Durango TD310475, unfortunately they still appear unavailable online. LOVED them, cheaper option than Mugen Seiki E0206. Both work great. Watch his vid closely, at the very end he puts a small bearing shim on the crown gear side. I use 2-3 bearing shims instead of just 1 to further tighten the crown to input gear mesh for front and rear. Prefer to use Kyosho 96772, but have also used Tekno TKR1222. This video was long and rambling, but think I covered these #s towards the end. I run 50/100/20k front to rear Outcast, 50/200/20k Kraton and like it. In summary, you need 2 planetary shims per diff and will be adding 2 satellite shims per diff, and using 2-3 bearing shims on the crown gear side of the front and rear diffs. Building/bulletproofing diffs takes some practice, but I've had tons of it at this point. Makes a HUGE difference in minimizing gear breakages when running 6s power and bashing hard. 👍👍

[@derekquinones8614]

Rich Duperbash awesome thanks for the help I'm practicing this is my first time doing this but I'll take my time and do my best I'll get ahold of you if I need help!!! Bash on man #arrmarocks

[@richduperbash2966]

Derek Quinones just go slowly and pay attention to assembly. I usually warm my sealed diff fluid bottles in a shallow coffee mug with warm water to make it pour easier. 100K and higher is very viscous and hard to get out of the bottle even with the lid completely off. I use Team Associated personally, made my Lucas oils. Also use TLR, Team Losi Racing.

[@derekquinones8614]

Rich Duperbash yeah rich I just received a brandnew full bottle of 100k team associated everyone says it's very reliable fluid so I went with it I've only got 100k and 10k by associated so there's probably like a 20k I need to get also!

[@richduperbash2966]

Derek Quinones right on. You could use 10k rear, probably just get 50-60k for the front and your golden. 👍👍

[@SaviorUnkind]

If you look at the back of the manual (part number section) it clearly shows the shims behind the planetary gear. Not sure why they aren't pictured in the diff service section.

[@richduperbash2966]

This is an older vid. ARRMA didn't start using planetary shims until the V4 versions last year. That said, they're smaller in diameter. I still prefer the Mugen Seiki E0206 ones. 🍻😎💪👊👊

[@SaviorUnkind]

@@richduperbash2966 Gotcha, my bad, I'm new to the scene. Funny I would've put one there regardless, why would they have a gasket touching a spinning gear with nothing between? Anyways keep hitting it bro, you're a beast.

[@Backyardwrenching1243]

Should I get the tekno or the kyosho for the ring/pinion shim?

[@richduperbash2966]

Both work, but the Tekno #1222 shims are thinner .10 vs .15mm so they offer more leeway in terms of using 2 or three shims. You can also sometimes opt for 1 of each (0.25mm) vs 2-3 Tekno shims. 🍻

[@AlexTorres-us1dt]

other thing I'm a little confused so i have my diff open i see 4 little washers aka shims will i be adding 1more?? to each side

[@richduperbash2966]

Alex Torres you'll be adding 2 small shims total, 1 on each sattelite pin. Watch Thomas Ps, Tp-PartsRC-Xtreme how to vid on bulletproof diffs, it should be most helpful. It's hard to explain in text. Get back to me if you still need help. 👍👍👊

[@AlexTorres-us1dt]

Rich Duperbash okaay thanks man im gonna look it but just blow my center diff ..

[@richduperbash2966]

Alex Torres sorry to hear bro. Shimming the diffs definitely helps strengthen them, but sh.. still happens sometimes...Lol. You'll get good with your diffs after you go through them a few times.😲😲😲👍👍👊

[@theirishaxe9405]

Hey buddy i know this is an older video but I'm hoping you get my comment. Have you ever tried hardening all your satellite and planetary gears and your drive cups? Just get them red hot with a torch or map gas and then immediately drop into cold water or oil? I'm trying this with my notorious build in using just bash it chassis and diff cases and i guy i know on fb has been hardening those sintered arrma gears and he had had awesome luck 👍

[@richduperbash2966]

Thanks so much Brother 👊. I've had others suggest it before, but haven't actually tried it myself yet 🤔. Definitely makes sense to me. Really appreciate you bringing it up. I'll have to try it. 😎💪👊👊

[@theirishaxe9405]

@@richduperbash2966 ok cool man, so I'm building a notorious with just bash it chassis and some essential gpm parts like my steering rack and hot racing servo saver locking clamp tube but these tests are just too weak and i can't pay 35 bucks plus shipping for hardened spider gears so I'm going to try hardening myself first. It's free Lol. 👍👍

[@Tomberland84]

Good video about shimming and lots of other info haha. I also have a tentency to bable on in my video's. Good info nonetheless!!

[@richduperbash2966]

Tomberland thanks brother...Lol. This was a babbling special 😵😵😲. I almost didn't post it, but people have gotten use of it for the part #s anyhow 😂😂😜. Merry Christmas brother!!!🍻🎄🙋🙋😲😲😲😵😎💪👊👊

[@Tomberland84]

Rich Duperbash Merry Christmas to you and your family too! 🎅

[@RCbashingtheKRATON]

rich if you use the allen wrench they give you ,them screws come out no problem..No matter what type of them tools with handle you get the allen wrench they provide is ten times better....Believe me i had same problem until i started using them, just use as breaker bar then finish with your wrench.BASH-ON BROTHER

[@richduperbash2966]

RCbashing the KRATON I stripped 2 Arrma wrenches and actually broke a driver handle in my hand going gorilla style. Think the excessive locker had been hit or miss, but thanks bro for suggestions. For me heat has been the key.

[@RCbashingtheKRATON]

Rich Duperbash gotcha...

[@craigmac1516]

had a rock get under my center diff it wedged and pushed the pinion gear all the way back to the motor. i think broke the front ring gear. i am not getting full torque to the front wheels now.

[@richduperbash2966]

Yeah that sucks Craig 😝. Rocks can wreak havoc for sure. If you're not hearing cyclical ticking or grinding (slippage) on harder throttle or braking, it could be the center diff. Likely the front planetary gear and/or set pin cracked. I'd check the center first as it takes the most abuse and then the front. 😎💪👊👊

[@nathanielbrown3592]

Rich Duperbash please tell me how do you can put those 2.8 on your typhoon. I would love to have those on my typhoon but I am in need of some assistance. I would greatly appreciate that if you could help me out. I think your typhon looks awesome with those 2.8's

[@richduperbash2966]

Nathaniel Brown you have at least 2 options. I took the pricier route and swapped on Kraton hex's, axels, and hubs. You gain 1 inch width and can then fit MT tires on with no rub. Other option is Team Associated RC8T hex adapters. part 89330. Only thing with adapters is hex pin holes are a tad bigger than Arrma. Can use Arrma stock pins with paper glue or something to tighten pin until wheels are fitted.

[@richduperbash2966]

Nathaniel Brown wanted to add, make sure you get Kraton version 2 hex's, AR310484. I say this because version 1 hex's will sometimes pop up online when doing a search, the pins won't line up on version 2 axel holes. I run F11 17 hex 2.8 rims for 2.8 Trenchers, and Proline 3.8 Badlands on Desperado 3.8 rims. Tape your tires or they will balloon and rub when turning. Both rims have a good offset.

[@carlofois2229]

Richduperdash update I managed to pull the front diff out and it has ripped some teeth out. I noticed on the back diff, the diff and pinion seem fine however seems to be a lot of play on it yet no damage strange!!! I think it might be time to pull it to bits and rebuild it give it a clean I will shim the front and rear diffs and re fill with oil and grease. Only problem is there's no stock for the diffs at my local hobby shop which is a bit rubbish bet there's a big back order lol just my luck.👍👊 I think the crunching was early sign of pinion skipping diff gear rich 6s too much power

[@richduperbash2966]

carlo fois thanks for the update. I've been doing diffs again lots lately too. Just rebuilt all 3 Typhon diffs, replaced entire center diff/spur because it has leaked dry and looked pretty shot including damage to the plastic cup. Spur was OK, but teeth rather worn after full year of hard 6s bashing. I often clean and reuse my gears and bearings whenever possible. Planetary gear and pins were busted. Just found 4 flattened crown gear teeth in rear diff, but input/pinion survived somehow...Lol. Realized this rear diff never got shimmed somehow??? Finishing up after work today. eBay often sells entire diffs including Spur or crown, bearings and outdrives for pretty cheap. Good option when otherwise backordered. The crown gear is like 20$ retail otherwise. Good luck with it bud. Definitely worth shimming for harder bashing no doubt. I've gotten way longer use of all my shimmed diffs overall. Bearing shims on front/rear have made a HUGE difference in saving the crown/input gears.👍👍👊

[@carlofois2229]

Rich Duperbash cheers bro!!! Sounds good you got a lot done there the practicly a brand new rig.👍 I seen the crown gears you guys have them in the states, I will get some more info tomorrow. The guy I bought the car from said he shimmed the diffs I could not see any I am the same will shim try and use rear pinion still looks ok might change the front.👍

[@zeusm8498]

that sucks dude I live in the desert and i can play 360 days a year hot as hell but great for the hobby thanks for the info definitely will be doing this to my kraton and maybe the nero not sure if that needs this

[@richduperbash2966]

zeus m84 you must have some bad ass terrain to bash!!! I'm near Sacramento, CA and summers get toasty for sure, enough to gear down for, 105-110 ish. Really soaked here now from storms. Happy bashing.🐒🐒🐒

[@jknewb6276]

Is this still an issue 3 years later and possibly 3 versions later? I grabbed the V5 I'm sure it's still like this. But unfortunately ima a broke loser and only running her on 4s right now. Lol

[@richduperbash2966]

The newer V4-5 diffs are shimmed better 👍. 4 new shims were added. I still prefer to swap the new planetary shims with bigger Mugen Seiki ones plus add 2 Tekno #1222 bearing shims to ear crown gear side bearing. 😎💪👊👊

[@edwardbaldwin4252]

What diff oil is good for speed runs?

[@richduperbash2966]

I'm honestly not sure Edward. Just not my area of expertise. Think most guys run spools in the center and heavier front/rear fluids.🤔

[@ElasticPrawn]

Nice video dad :)

[@richduperbash2966]

ElasticPrawn thanks son. Hope you will wrench and BASH with Dad more this summer. Miss going out and ripping it up together!!! ❤❤🤓😵😵😲👍👊

[@derekquinones8614]

So what I'm meaning to ask is I can do all my shimming with the td310475?

[@richduperbash2966]

Derek Quinones no you can't, cuz you still need the smaller sattelite shims (2 extra per diff) and the Kyosho or Tekno bearing shims for the front and rear. Mugen does include both the planetary and sattelite shims, forgot to mention that. I think you get 10 planetary shims in the TD baggie. Mugen only sends you 5-6 planetary per bag plus the satellite shims. I used the extra satellite shims you get with AR310436, diff gear set. Arrma sells the satellite shims separately, but I've never bought them. Hope this helps. 👍👍

[@richduperbash2966]

Derek Quinones PS, if you find the TD shims anywhere let me know, they've been unavailable for several months now.

[@jetskijay1955]

Now I remember why I bought a gen 2 revo. The diffs are absolute overkill.

[@richduperbash2966]

Every rig has it's issues bone stock. The Revo is definitely no exception. It's crazy how long Traxxas took to revise that platform to actually handle 6s power. 👀😎💪👊👊

[@AMM0394]

Blew my rear diff twice in 3 days I need to do this

[@jmurr357]

Alex Musante did it help?

[@gonzodetroitify]

How did u manage to break em if u know

[@ksrnate]

I've just blown out my 2nd ring gear and output gear? It's only 3 weeks old :(

[@richduperbash2966]

Best thing I can think of is to add 2 more bearing shims to the crown/ring gear side bearing 👍. I'm still using the Tekno ones TRK1222 with good results. That's in addition to the stock shim. Make sure your input bearings and diff case are both good. Lock the diff case cover down snug so the diff can't get pushed backwards off the input gear. Never land with hard throttle and limit standing backflips and self righting. Hope this helps. 🍻😎💪👊👊

[@ksrnate]

@@richduperbash2966 It does help thanks dude! Turned out to be the diff bearings? So its all all shimmed up now with rubber sealed bearings, should be ok now I hope! Thanks again for the reply! Your videos have helped me out mate :)

[@aFewBitsShort]

New Notorious. 2nd run started clicking/rattling. Picked it up and spun the wheels and noticed that both front wheels could spin forward independent of the drivetrain. Pulled out the front diff and it looks ok. Next step to open it up and see what's going on inside..

[@aFewBitsShort]

Upon closer inspection the main diff gear and the one that drives it are both worn from slipping. Surprised it happened only on the 2nd run. Hadn't even run the battery down either time. Thought Arrma was meant to be tough.

[@gatti493]

I'm sure your supposed to have a smidge of play in those diff meshings , otherwise they heat up ??

[@richduperbash2966]

gatti493 most true my friend. The gears settle and break in on higher power to mesh about perfectly. I've broken far less teeth off by doing my diffs this way. I just stick to what works, but always do my own experimenting before passing judgment on what's effective. I'm pretty sure the diff box itself and bearings have a minute amount of flex under extreme loads and torsion. In any case, this has done wonders for getting the most longevity out of my gear sets with a noticable reduction in gear failures. 🍻😎💪👊👊

[@gatti493]

Rich Duperbash If it works for you rock on lol Still a very good video anyway. Good luck buddy

[@richduperbash2966]

gatti493 thanks brother. It was a rambling one for sure...Lol. Sorta all over the place, but part #s have been useful for many 😂. Happy bashing brother!!!😎💪👊👊

[@slidinsidewayzproductionss7906]

Did this happen due to low diff fluid

[@richduperbash2966]

No it didn't 👍. The input and crown gears fail for various reasons. Landing on throttle stresses them for sure. The internal gears definitely need adequate fluid to prevent overheating. The planetary gears break more from physical stress than oil level issues. Chassis flex can jackhammer the drive shafts into the cups and lead to breakage. Sometimes the gears just give out. CNC machined gears are ideal. If you keep your diffs maintained and don't force wheel spin when the wheels would otherwise bind up (decelerate) quickly, these diffs are tolerant to 6s abuse. 😎💪👊👊

[@ddd228]

I just blew up my E maxx rear diff and I'm up grading. Shims are very important.Go to rctech.com and look.

[@stefandwoodham]

Did they come with diff oil?

[@richduperbash2966]

sdw2003 yes, all the Arrmas come with prefilled diffs. Many other RCs only come with grease packed in them, not diff oil. I've had 2 of my 4 Arrmas show up underfilled though. It's a good idea to check them or change the oil to your liking before too long. I run 50/100/20K front to rear in my Outcasts and Typhon, 50/200/20k in my Kraton. 🙋🙋😲😲😱😵💪👊👊

[@stefandwoodham]

Rich Duperbash my outcast Came with grease that's why I asked

[@richduperbash2966]

sdw2003 that's not been the norm from Arrma??? The diff oil turns into blackish gray goop after a few runs that looks like grease.

[@stefandwoodham]

Rich Duperbash , out of the box I pulled the diffs and it was grease,

[@stefandwoodham]

I know it turns gray because of the pop/cast metal they use! Wish they would use hardened steel cut from a solid block

[@lukerecore]

Only tough guys where glasses 👓

[@RCJOE]

what's done to your Ruckus?

[@richduperbash2966]

RC JOE both have upgraded electronics. My son's has VXL 3500kv system from my Slash, my daughter's has CC 2400kv MMP combo. Both have MIP x-duty rear shafts , Traxxas wheely bar, upgraded aluminum shocks, steering blocks, servos, hex's, RPM hubs, Traxxas metal turnbuckles, Hot Racing metal Spur gears, and running 2.8 Trenchers. They are sort of ridiculous to drive, very light with way too much power, just right for young kids...lol.🐒🐒🐒

[@RCJOE]

Rich Duperbash yea I like mine but have only done a few things, I'm trying to find a good ESC to go with the stock motor and hope to push a 3s through it as the stock ESC won't except it

[@richduperbash2966]

RC JOE is it the brushless system? My stock system took it, but it did get toasty. I melted solder at EC3 connector with stock system at least once during hard summer runs. If you want to mod it, I'd look at higher KV combo, maybe Sidewinder 3 or something. My 2400 is too low kV for top speeds with limited gearing options. Still pretty fast from 0-50. VXL combo is very fast and waterproof.

[@RCJOE]

Rich Duperbash yea brushless, I tried the 3s lipo but it didn't want to move for me. I put the 2s back in and worked perfectly

[@richduperbash2966]

RC JOE is ESC set on Lipo? May be a dumb question, just haven't played with it in a while. ESC may need a reset or something, should recognize 3s, that's all we were running on stock electronics for awhile.