Can

Buy the brushes and texture-palette used in this video here: store.artis-op...
It's time, viewers, way beyond fashionably-late, we have tried out #slapchop .... with no half measures! This speed-painting technique has built up momentum fast, helping people produce Warhammer 40k, Warhammer AOS and all miniatures at lightening speed.
Byron picked a big, scary model - the Warhammer Bloodthirster of Khorne. This large, intimidating piece is a perfect example of how the #slapchop technique can quickly produce an impressive result.
HOWEVER... The technique definitely has shortcomings, we asked you for your problems with the technique before we started painting:
- Metallics
- Chalky drybrushing
- Desaturated 'dull' colours (lacking vibrancy)
- What to do with flat/large areas
- How to fix mistakes
- Do you have to basecoat black?
Thank you so much for watching, if you found the video useful please consider subscribing, and leave us a suggestion for a follow-up to this video.
The most liked suggestion will win a brush set, and texture-palette of their choosing!
1:50 What is Slapchop?
6:45 The first GREY drybrush
9:42 The WHITE drybrush
13:16 The problem with CONTRAST
13:58 Fixing contrast
17:49 Two Thin Coats
19:58 Metallics
21:20 Sequencing & Fixing Mistakes
24:04 Conclusions
24:35 First GREY drybrush
27:54 WHITE drybrush
32:21 Red CONTRAST mixing + beginning
39:08 Black contrast mixing
42:50 CONTRAST: Second blood
44:54 Leather + detailing
48:58 METALLICS!
51:37 Wings MISTAKE and fix
55:43 Magic blue step
57:30 Slipped contrast fixing trick
57:55 Metallics again
1:00:43 Showcase and outro
Space Marine tutorials:
Ultramarines (Airbrush + Drybrush + Wash synergy): • How to paint Ultramari...
Dark Angels (high tabletop drybrush armour): • How to paint DARK ANGE...
Salamanders (high tabletop drybrush armour): • How to paint Salamande...
Black Templars (ultra-crisp drybrush+wash armour): • How to Paint BLACK TEM...
Imperial Fists (artistic purple shadow drybrush armour): • INDOMITUS How to paint...
Space Wolves (our take on Space Wolf Grey): • Space Wolves Painting ...
Vehicle tutorials:
Space Wolves: • How to Paint Warhammer...
Turquoise Tanks (alpha legion overclocked rhino): • How to Paint a Space M...
Star Wars Legion AAT: • How to paint: AAT Batt...
Large Miniatures:
AMAZING Great unclean one in 3 hours with Drybrushing: • INSANE Great Unclean O...
Fundamental/Basic army level Techniques:
How to Control GW Texture paints (e.g. Agrellan Earth): • GW Texture Paints Unlo...
Black Armour: • PAINT BLACK ARMOUR LIK...
Leather 3 ways: • How to Paint Leather F...
White 3 ways: • Painting white miniatu...
Gold 3 ways (bonus advanced gold): • How to Paint GOLD: FAS...
Yellow 4 ways: • How to Paint Yellow Wa...
Assembling, converting, and painting Forgeworld (Rogue Idol): • Re-posing an Orruk Rog...
Paint Realistic Flames - with DRYBRUSHING!: • How to Paint FLAMES an...
Chipping using AK Interactive Products: • Easy Chipping effects ...
Terrain:
Glowing 40k/SF Terrain: • How to paint 40K terra...
Glowing/firey/endless spells: • Paint all GLOWING Terr...
Dungeons: • Game Changing MODULAR ...
Grey Walls: • How to paint terrain D...
Upgrade those Grey walls with enamel washes in 3 quick steps!: • Upgrade ANY terrain in...
Glowing Green GHOST WALL: • Drybrush Striking Glow...
Synthwave Purple/Pink Wall: • Drybrush Fluorescent G...
Yellow Shipping Container: • PAINTING YELLOW MADE E...
Series D: These high-quality brushes are perfectly designed for stippling, smudging, drybrushing, buffing, and even edge-highlighting. store.artis-op...
Series S - The perfect point, the ideal everyday brush: store.artis-op...
Series M - Shorter heads for precision detailing: store.artis-op...
Series D Brush set: store.artis-op...
XL Series D: store.artis-op...
Accessories (brush racks, cleaner, pallets): store.artis-op...
Music: KZbin
#ArtisOpus #SeriesD #Drybrushing

[@otacocato]

I've been using paper towels for years and never understood why my dry-brushing never looked as nice and was chalky. Thank you for breaking me of that bad habit!

[@ArtisOpus]

We have all been there mate, it's what we were taught. Welcome to the future, enjoy silky-smooth drybrushing :)

[@mandfondkwan8524]

Same here. I have been mindblown by how simple and effective this tip is.

[@Tazacks]

@@ArtisOpus all i really have are these little plastic ceramic 'palettes', and some matte black rust-oleum black primer. I'm fairly new to painting, and the battletech models are relatively small. So i suppose i have 2 questions - will the little faux 'dry palettes' be sufficient for dry brushing? and will my matte black (a no-no as per your video) dramatically affect the outcome in a novice paint job? I have very limited time and i want to be efficient without spending any more money if i can help it. (at least not till i get better)

[@Draythur]

same my dude, same

[@ArtisOpus]

@@Tazacks As long as you're concentrating on the technique and holding things in mind you will definitely improve. Try to avoid following the matte primer with more matte (paints). You can always knock it back with a wash, which will help a fair bit. When you can pick up the fancy stuff go for it, it will help, but there's no rush. If you wanted a priority order I would say it would be something like this: First series D brush (Medium/Large) Chaos Black Primer Texture Palette Full D Set Texture Palette. As I said, no rush though, technique is king, just make sure you're paying attention to the steps. Not going to heavy, testing elsewhere pre-model :)

[@ArtisOpus]

Brushes and accessories used in this video: store.artis-opus.com/collections/series-d-drybrushing What did you think of the longer format guys? For a chance to WIN A SET OF BRUSHES leave your suggestions for follow-up content below :) A lot of questions are appearing about our XXL texture palette (the black textured mat I am putting paint on in this video) - it is *this* product specifically. We also sell it in A4 (this is A3, it's hefty, and protects my desk). XXL Texture Palette: store.artis-opus.com/products/xxl-texture-palette-a3-brand-new-product-design

[@shinzola8512]

loved the longer format, what i'd like to see as a follow up is demonstrating the modified technique on a variety of models, specifically of various sizes (e.g. not just monsters/character models)

[@vee_tinymoose]

I’d love to see shaded dry brushing / using a variety of colour for undercoating and then dry brushing. Edit - meaning that the dry brush is also coloured. So if it’s a deep brown undercoat, then shades of brown for the drybrush

[@MistImp1]

I love longer videos.

[@Nick-ld6nz]

@@vee_tinymoose Was going to say something similar. I would love to see a range of models using this method in several different colors. I've seen it done in browns for a sepia start, and blue, but I've wanted to see what different color undercoats look like on their own, as well as some full painted examples from them. I'm going to be painting my nids soon, and was thinking of going with a purple undercoat and seeing what I can pull off with it.

[@TimWatts]

Loved the longer format - I’d love to see more info on the different base coat colors. I’m also really interested in the new valejo contrast paints and how they go for you.

[@davidbaity6456]

I've watched hours of tutorials since getting back into painting and gaming over the last several months. This has been the best tutorial I've watched to date. I've learned so much and plan to watch you regularly from now on. Thank you!

[@ArtisOpus]

Thanks so much, my dude! We have a very similar tutorial dropping next week, think you'll enjoy it :)

[@lagbolt6933]

The longer format is preferred as I like the depth and step by step walk through.

[@ArtisOpus]

Noted, thanks, buddy!

[@JoeHardacre]

Your steps to decent dry brushing at 8-9 minutes or so needs to be a separate video and pinned on your channel as far as I'm concerned. It's golden and is generally available to piece together from your other videos (I started my series D painting using your ultramarine rhino tutorial), but the small section from this video is super succint and pretty much answers all of the beginner questions I had way back.

[@DreadlordMik]

If you haven't done a video on it yet, I would like to see more slapchop metallics. Like, how would you do custodes with slapchop for example?

[@HomerSimpson1100]

as someone who tends to paint a lot of vehicles and mecha stuff, I would love it if you went over what to do with larger flat surfaces to keep them interesting and high quality.

[@mekko1413]

His main tutorial about dry brushing that was linked several times at the beginning of the video cover that exact topic.

[@Modge17]

The Pickle Jar has a video on using contrast to paint vehicles, he just uses a sponge and it looks great!

[@deadsun5150]

kzbin.info/www/bejne/iYGXqHqJoa95e9U Drybrush vehicles

[@thedrunkenknight]

He did. Use a stippling motion on them with the drybrush instead of the normal technique

[@ArtisOpus]

Your sir, have won the most liked comment award! We'll definitely get to this :) thanks for the suggestion

[@philgee486]

Very good mini and well worth an hour running time given it covers mis-steps and their complete fixes, great vid

[@ArtisOpus]

Thanks, man, glad you found it useful!

[@Danny76375]

I’d love more on this advanced Slapchop method. Maybe things you can do next steps, or harder to do slapchop models. Like big flat armoured vehicles or power armour etc.

[@ArtisOpus]

This will definitely happen, overwhelmingly requested :)

[@danclancy1582]

This approach to explaining the concept is incredibly helpful! You generally take this approach in your other videos (where you explain the logic and reasoning behind a particular action) but the extra depth here I find helpful in moving from copying a technique to really understanding a technique and adapting it for my own use. Big Thanks!

[@danscarfe7020]

I’d love something long style video like this, for Drybrushing and Stippling. I feel they go hand in hand and would make a good big video!

[@ArtisOpus]

We can absolutely arrange that... Tank time!

[@medusaritchie]

I think whatever you do in the follow up video it should be done in a waistcoat. Very smart!

[@ArtisOpus]

Hobbit outfit? 😅

[@medusaritchie]

Could paint some LoTR minis? 🤔

[@ChrisHensley2]

Slapchop is going to get so advanced with all the tweaks and extra steps its going to be "Paint a miniature in little as 48 hours new and improved slapshop!!"

[@ArtisOpus]

Haaa! Thats the exact reason I didn't want to add airbrushing, edge-highlighting, etc. This one's 'true' to the ethos. At the end of the day, it's just pick an amount of time you're happy with, and cram whatever you can, no matter how much or how little, into that time.

[@whitestagg]

Have to call it "french chef's knife" at that point

[@PokeJulyTCG]

Definitely enjoying the more in depth video! And would be great to see more of the videos using contrast/speed paints. Keep up the great work 😊

[@ArtisOpus]

Can do! We're interested to try Vallejo's especially, having heard good things :)

[@LeeAllanSpades]

Being a painter with ADHD, the Slapchop method has been a GODSEND. It allows me to paint and finish more models as opposed to painting until the dopamine runs out and I leave a trail of half-completed models in my wake. I need to make myself a damp pad now.

[@madMARTYNmarsh1981]

The Artis Opus dampening pad isn't very expensive and comes with a really nice and heavy glass container with a wooden lid, it's a worthy investment as the glass pot is heavy enough that it doesn't slide around my work surface, I don't spend half the time chasing the pot with a brush 😂

[@mattloring3071]

@Martyn James that last bit just gave me a mental image of wacky races catch the pigeon with a little pot. My brain be weird.

[@iharpo9292]

Not just slapchop but drybrushing as a whole has made my adhd so happy. Its a technique that doesnt really take any less skill than edge highlighting but is far less time consuming. It means i can focus on the creative aspects more while still making noticeable progress. Even my basic space marines are getting drybrushed for most of the armor, with highlights only for details i cant really drybrush effectively

[@lordikalex]

Same for me!!!

[@lilpain1997]

This is a year old but my god it explains me perfectly lmao. I have around 6 figs rn that are half done due to ADHD lol. I really need to give this a go

[@inthetrencheswithcas1762]

First time here and It only took like 30 seconds and I subscribed your calm delivery and clear audio said yep this is going to be a good channel

[@ShadowxOmega5]

longer format is great but would recommend in the future usin the inbuilt chapters tool and also include an additional (text) break that separates the general information/techniques from the model-specific part 😊 super informative video hope to see this used on somethin like ogres or the hulk that have lots of flat smooth skin areas !

[@ArtisOpus]

Taken on board, thanks buddy, will do!

[@stevenfunnell5768]

Thank you so much for this video. I have watched other videos of other people before and nothing was as good as this. As someone who paints every bit before I build this is a massive change to what I'm used to. I would to see what u would do with a space marine-size model. But thank you so much again

[@LaLaObeRoT]

I've unknowingly been doing "Slap Chop" with artists inks for a long time. Your vid connected all the dots for me. Thank you.

[@ArtisOpus]

Our pleasure! Us too, but with paints dropped in shades :)

[@Epyon1201]

Longer format is great, can never complain about more content. As a new painter everyone always hypes up the strengths of a method, but I would like to see some talk about it's weaknesses and what you can do to mitigate them. Also brush care using generic product would be welcome.

[@ArtisOpus]

Catching up here, thanks dude! Both great calls, brush care will land in a few months hopefully :). For now, tomorrow's vid is 45mins, and a good one, hope you like it

[@DarkDanegan]

I do enjoy longer format videos, about 40 mins to an hour is good, when a process is being shown. So much of painting is troubleshooting as you go, so it’s really important to see this if you want to replicate a technique. Shorter “how to” videos are good, but often really hard to put into practise as things rarely go per the tutorial first time and you’re left wondering where it went wrong. A good follow up might be a unit of smaller models and how to make it harder to tell it’s been slap chopped. For example, an oil or enamel wash can mask the process quite a bit.

[@ArtisOpus]

Great suggestion, and you're not the only one asking for this. I'll have a think how to make it work as an episode :). Tomorrow's vid is 45mins, let us know how it goes for you!

[@richarddakin542]

I'd like to see your take on a transparent paints over zenithal highlight. Perhaps with a Dana Howl style wash/panel line before the colouring

[@ArtisOpus]

Thanks man, I'd be tempted to zenithal and drybrush the grey, and drybrush the white. I think there's merit in not skipping the drybrushing.

[@mcscruff3813]

Love the long content and to parrot what some others have said, I'd love to see more using different colors of undercoat.

[@ArtisOpus]

Will do, sir! Thanks so much, we've got another beefy one tomorrow, 45mins :)

[@NinjaTurtle-qh1xy]

Been wanting to try slap chop for a while now, this video might just be the one to push me to it!

[@ArtisOpus]

Jump in! It's a blast :)

[@NinjaTurtle-qh1xy]

@@ArtisOpus plenty of new models from Christmas to practice 😁

[@ToxicHenzo]

I personally would love to see your top tips on how to go from a slapchop base to a much more detailed piece. so the next steps or things you can do during slapchop to really elevate the paintjob!

[@ArtisOpus]

Interesting, having covered the ground we could almost do it as a direct follow-up from this video, I like it.

[@ToxicHenzo]

@@ArtisOpus yeah exactly, you could show us how to make that bloodthirster even better!

[@nax134]

@@ArtisOpus please do, that would be epic.

[@MarkWidner]

What about using two different colors in the middle step before going back to the white? Especially for folks trying to cover large surfaces.

[@ArtisOpus]

No reason why not at all, and so much flexibility there. Could go Daaark deep blue, dark blue, light grey, white. For example.

[@Gabberz123]

I'd love to see how you'd integrate an airbrush into your technique. I know a lot of creators shy away from using one in their tutorials because many people don't have them, but I'd love to see what kinds of things it opens up.

[@ArtisOpus]

Pretty sure I could manage to cover it in a way for people with/without (spray cans, like our mawcrusher)

[@jklappenbach]

I was thinking the same thing. But the reality of the technique is that, for the most part, an airbrush would be counter productive. I'll still use an airbrush to apply the base coat, as it's probably the fastest for me, and the end result is going to be higher quality than brush. But after that, it looks like it's make-up and sable brushes. I could see an airbrush really being handy for applying lighting effects after all the main coloring is done. The glow from a magic staff or blade, for example. Is there a way to incorporate airbrush into dry brushing and inks / washes / contour / speed paints?

[@toddharris520]

Subscribed! Thank you for this incredibly thorough video! I’d love some more content about layering contrast/speed paint colors. I have a hard time making them look good.

[@ArtisOpus]

Thanks buddy! Tomorrow's drop should suit well, we're using shades a lot, but it's very similar to contrast (just like our wings here) :)

[@jubjubfudbump7793]

A dedicated troubleshooting episode for this method. Overtly showing common/uncommon errors and their corrections or salvaging methods. So when people make those inevitable mistakes, they can identify why, learn from em, or salvage what they've done so far.

[@ArtisOpus]

Great idea, we'll definitely do some direct follow up, and this makes a tonne of sense.

[@robclarke1098]

Fantastic video! I would really love to see you tackle a knight. Plenty of different textures, including some nice flat areas. It would be great to see if slapchop would work on that.

[@ArtisOpus]

This is a great call, and a lot of people are asking about large models, vehicles, and larger non-textured areas, it'd tick a lot of boxes, plus I have never painted one!

[@butcherbird5148]

I´d love to see a follow-up where you use different undertones instead of black to test out different properties of the primer used. Also instead of using brush to put on the contrast, use an airbrush to see if the result/workability is better.

[@ArtisOpus]

We can definitely do this, science time! In the meanwhile Goobertown Brent has smashed a very similar theme, in his own style, worth checking out: kzbin.info/www/bejne/nYWVe4lpgNhnZ8k

[@superbleeder12]

I like the in-depth videos! keep them coming. I'd like a video on your technique for smaller models with a lot of fiddly bits, like the Skittershank's Clawpack from Underworlds.

[@superbleeder12]

Would also like to see your thoughts on speedpaints if you haven't already

[@ArtisOpus]

Catching up :). Thanks man! We have another big one tomorrow. Fiddly bits and details is a great suggestion, and I'm particularly interested to try Xpress, from all the options available, they had the most time put into R&D, and vallejo are pretty thorough, I'll test once supply is better!

[@terryn9429]

Skin. Can you do a video on slap chop with skin? How you would do it. Maybe on a bust or just a normal 28mm scale model. I’m looking forwards to trying this method on my daemons. Great video. Keep up the awesome work!💪🏽

[@ArtisOpus]

Great suggestion, and definitely not something straight forward, merits some time considering how to elevate the level beyond 'normal' Slapchop flesh.

[@XTr3m3b4sh]

I think what I would do next to this model is some airbrush glazing. Spray some transparent brown or black from below so suggest volumetric lighting. Some light glazing of Ivory and then transparent red on the top of the muscles. And some transparent blue where the wing membrane meets with the red wing-bone. And finally, some blood spray. It's a bloodthirster and it looks way too clean for that.

[@daverae4808]

I would love to see how different undercoat colours affect your slapchop technique. Showing how you drybrush and glaze the different colour combos.

[@ArtisOpus]

Absolutely can do, and it's one we could get pretty scientific/objective about, to make stuff mega-clear.

[@jinxsD]

Everytime Byron you have the whiteboard out and dropping some rad info you have to use the french artist outfit.. always!

[@ArtisOpus]

Haaa, noted! Does it add to my artistic credibility? :D

[@jinxsD]

@@ArtisOpus IT sure does

[@Ryoku1]

This is the first video I have seen from this channel. I don't play Warhammer, have no interest in Warhammer, and only paint stuff for my D&D games. So the "drama" of the anti-slapchop has flown over my head. All I know is that as a lesser skilled painter, slapchop has made painting way more fun for me and given me way better results than I had been getting, which is hugely more motivating. As I was watching this, it was repeatedly brought up how Citadel Contrast Paints are widely variable, which I had heard. But I simply have been using the Army Painter Speed Paints and they are incredibly constant. I'm tangentially aware AP is looked down on among other painters but from my perspective I do not see it as warranted at all. Again, thanks to slapchop and Speed Paints, I am putting out stuff that blows my mind and actually makes me excited to paint. I guess I don't have an actual point to this comment other than to say 1) Thank Primus for Slapchop and 2) All Hail Speed Paints. I do love some of the ideas shown here and definitely learned a few tricks so this was an hour well spent. I was also thoroughly entertained.

[@joshuagregoire7410]

Same here. I am also using speed paints with slapchop. It makes painting faster and enjoyable. I have blown through multiple minis games (zombicide green Horde and LoTR: WOTR) since using this technique.

[@tonytaylor7759]

Understandable. It is a very powerful technique to get things to the table quickly and with good results. The "Drama" is just about how these kind of painterly techniques have been around for ever but it suddenly takes off with a dumb meme-y name without acknowledgement of the numerous talented people before who have contributed to the community. Basically people are annoyed that its treated like a crazy new thing. But it's not.

[@erotunr]

Next after Christmas episode, what if you did a first time dry crush. Kind as if you received the D-series for as a gift how to use first steps what to consider painting first. That would give you success

[@ArtisOpus]

Like 'How to Start Drybrushing?' great idea :)

[@sebastianking2531]

During the theory part, you were talking about different base colors (for this model you used a dark brown) to have a warming/cooling effect to the final paint job. I would love to see a direct comparison between a cold and warm base color on the same model. Maybe even the two extremes cold/warm white comparison and cold/warm black comparison. On your final question, I totally dig this format, first explaining the theory behind what is going to happen later. Though I have to admit that I had to watch the entire video in three sittings as I couldn't watch one hour in one go.

[@ArtisOpus]

Thanks buddy, yeah it was a big one! We'll have to give the format a try on a smaller topic, and see how that plays :). We'll definitely be testing different basecoats out in the near-ish future

[@mitchelljett4785]

this was so good! absolutely loved the information, thank you so much.

[@ArtisOpus]

You're most welcome, buddy!

[@DigininjaRobin]

Finally got round to watching this and really enjoyed the content. As a suggestion for a follow up, how about painting the same model with "traditional" techniques. No dry brush, no contrasts, see how different it looks in the end. Then compare the two and see if there are any areas where one works better so the two could be combined.

[@ArtisOpus]

Thanks buddy, that's a very interesting idea, I could paint it in my '4step' and see how it comes out. Base (lighter than normal) Wash Repeat base Highlight (base + highlight colour) It's oldschool while still using some transparency from the washes, which means you have something efficient and texture-based in there.

[@Lunzium]

You absolutely changed my approach to painting. Amazed at what you achieve with those techniques. Would love to see your approach to more normal sized figures and figues with a lot of cloth/cloak along with armour, using your drybrush & contrast method. Oh, and would also love to see you using Greens, contrast and normal. Have seen tons of blues/reds/yellows, show some love to the greens

[@ArtisOpus]

Thanks for the kind words, buddy! You'll see a little work with greens soon, and a lot of people have asked for infantry, so we're definitely going to cover that in a few months, too :)

[@KendrickOng]

I'd like to see a video on your thoughts and opinions on Vallejo's Xpress Colour Paints - which has been touted as the Citadel Contrast Paints competitor - and if they hold up with #Slapchop techniques.

[@ArtisOpus]

Given the length of time they have been working on them, and Angel's involvement, they're the ones I'm the most inclined to try (too little time!), hopefully we can get our hands on some ASAP. I may wait until global distribution is reliable, it's more relevant when people can get their hands on them reliably. Great suggestion!

[@robelandon]

I'd like see a video on how you use your tools. How do you set up your palette. How do you clean your brushes and palette between paint. Those behind the camera things that can make life and learning your technique easier.

[@ArtisOpus]

Great call, it's easily missed, but it's a huge part of what I do, thanks man!

[@keggotht9323]

Great video, I got some series D brushes for Christmas and looking forward to getting stuck into my next project with them. Really like the length of this tutorial it covered everything in enough detail without going too long. Any suggestions of what to use as a texture pad as I haven't got one yet. I'd love to see this technique on small models and how you drybrush into awkward areas.

[@ArtisOpus]

Still catching up here buddy, sorry for the delay! Did yours arrive yet? Most important is to prime it, it should be like your mini. Good suggestion, we'll be returning to it in the future, and we'll make sure to look at smaller details/minis.

[@Himle_]

Awesome!! Great work on both the painting and the editing. The only thing (if not to hard) it missed was time stamps (chapters?), to make make it easy to find each step. (-: Don't have a mini to try this out on, but will try and rememeber when I do. (: Request. Well, there's the wet cloth one^^ Also and in the same "idea". But ice blades?

[@ArtisOpus]

Hey buddy, catching up! You're spot on, tomorrow's vid features them, and notes to accompany, let us know your thoughts! Transparency :| my poor soul, reliably great and difficult suggestions :)

[@ThorhaxGaming]

I'd love to see a Better "SLAP CHOP" With human skin tones, I fide it very hard to get a nice skin tone with contrasts specially on human faces (Bigger models) I'm not sure why but contrasts such as Guilliman's flesh just never seem to come out vibrant and well highlighted I'm sure it's user error but be great to see it down right.

[@ArtisOpus]

LOVE THIS! Mainly because it's something I have definitely thought, but not clocked properly, I don't know how to 'fix' it... But I will have a think. Might involve basing the area a different colour :s kind of deviates from the technique, but with stippling with Series D... it could be done fast. Great suggestion, thank you :)

[@SoroYo]

Very good video. I would like to see more about using different base colors (primer) and how that affects the paints used afterwards.

[@ArtisOpus]

Definitely on the agenda, and a nice objective science-y video, just need to pick a good model for it!

[@ericlegrue6775]

I would love to see a purple

[@ImBigDaddy74]

I think the longer format worked great, the whole idea of slap chop is to get more models done to a reasonable standard quick. I'd like to see how you could apply this to a smaller group of models with a captain in (or similar) so you could do for example 5 models then one of them to a slightly higher standard to make them stand out. Also as I'm currently doing a whole load of stormcasts how it can work with actual metallic paint would be great too.

[@ArtisOpus]

We'll definitely be doing this... Tomorrow! It's pretty close to what you've outlined, let us know your thoughts, and how you'd like us to follow it up, we'll definitely be concentrating on helping people get the most out of whatever time they have a lot this year :)

[@goosterpaints731]

Thank you on your take on the latest rage. As Fauxhammer stated in his latest Warcry painting video, big monsters etc. are the poster boys for Slap Chop. Since trying my AO ’damp’brushing hand to get good slap chop results, I’d really want to see an indepth breakdown of doing the slap chop base (black primer > grey/beige drybrush > white highlight) on a regular human size 32mm model w’ hight amount of detail and ’bits’ (weapons, shields, cloaks etc.). I can’t be the only one having challenges creating the best starting point for slap chop for these types of models (that are probably the majority of you queue).

[@richardloveday5761]

As a next video, I'd like to see a vehicle painting guide (no airbrush). Love what you do, be interested to see some of these methods optimised for vehicles. (Personally I vote for a leman Russ tank but anything along those lines would be super helpful!)

[@ArtisOpus]

Catching up :). We'll get there man, first attempt was a fail, but that doesn't put us off!

[@animaux1927]

wuld there be away to see the how you would add battle damage/chipping/ rusting etc to peices with this tecnique asthese effects etc take away from the base coats models and how would you incorporate them

[@ArtisOpus]

That is an interesting idea, and I don't know the answer! Nice one, I'll have a think.

[@minimagus6468]

Firstly loved seeing the long form video. For the suggestion I'd love to see more on including a unifying colour like you did with the blood Red. I've no idea how it didn't dominate everything. Also more on stippling is always welcome. Lastly, thank you so much for including your mistakes. I didn't realise how much I needed to see someone else making and fixing their mistakes.

[@ArtisOpus]

You have no idea how many I make, it's just part of painting fast and loose :). Thanks man, both great suggestions, I'd just have to work out how to make an appealing video on the unifying colour, I'd love to cover it

[@vivalkyrie1530]

I would love to see a video on how to avoid or reduce the streaking effect of contrast paints. Every time I try to use them on anything like a space marine miniature I have huge issues with streaking. I've tried multiple different techniques to try and reduce this with the most success being with thinning the paint to at least a 50/50 with medium. However, I keep seeing videos by artists such as yourself that have managed to avoided this issue. How do you avoid the streaking or at least reduce it so it doesn't leap out at you when you see the miniature?

[@ArtisOpus]

Mhhhmmm. Can you give some more details of what you're doing? Undercoat Paints used Steps Brush size

[@vivalkyrie1530]

@@ArtisOpus I've tried using a straight Wraithbone or Grey Seer undercoat. But I normally use a zenithal with Chaos black then using Vallejo paints for an appropriate mid tone (bone or grey) with a final blast of white ink. I normally use a size 2 and have recently tried a size 3 brush to apply the contrast paint. The biggest issue i'm having with them is in painting the large smooth panels of space marines and particularly the darker colours, Dark Angels Green, Ultramarine Blue etc. I have tried painting them panel by panel, but normally find that the shoulder pads and the legs end up with terrible streaking.

[@MrGreg972]

That guide is a masterpiece on its own. Very well done. Looking forward for any videos on that topic!

[@ArtisOpus]

On slapchop? Thanks, my dude

[@nasigoring1525]

Nice. Best follow up would be on a rhino or chimera, a tank with big flat panels. Can they be slap chopped?

[@ArtisOpus]

They can, I think :)! I just need to pick which... and stop looking at the great textured cool nurgle one, because it's tempting but not a great example. But it is pretty...

[@nasigoring1525]

​@@ArtisOpus The nurgle one is the easy way home haha. Monolith or Leman Russ is easy business. Tesseract Vault, or a Knight Paladin for a moderate challenge. A Falcon, Hammerhead or Land Raider for the big challenge.

[@skynes]

Love the long-form video, showing all the details, the practice bits out of sight, the mistakes. It's really helpful to see all of that!

[@ArtisOpus]

Thanks man, exactly why we leave them in, very few creative hobbies involve predictable straight roads to your destination :)

[@davidboard820]

I’d like to see how you could adapt this technique to create OSL

[@ArtisOpus]

Conveniently, I did it for a Demon Prince recently, and a bit of it was recorded, can do, buddy! Technique is the same for drybrush/airbrush, too, which is nice, as we can cover both simultaneously.

[@LathanM]

I love the longer episodes. It gives more time to go into detail that you would have to speed through otherwise. Covering things like fine details or taking the guesswork and fear out of freehand work would be great. We see a bunch of this by it is a scarry thing to try without a little bit of direction.

[@ArtisOpus]

Great ideas, something we'd be happy to break-down :). Our pleasure man, glad you enjoyed it!

[@seamusOB]

Amazing video! One question: The Word Bearers Red warm basecoat/undercoat was painted on right? (not airbrushed)

[@ArtisOpus]

Yeah, but you can put it on however you like :). If you do airbrush, it's fine to go a little 'thicker' than normal, it will help protect the mini from it getting brushed off edges :)

[@seamusOB]

@@ArtisOpus Wonderful. Thank you! I'll stick to my trusty brushes then instead of using my airbrush (which doesn't exist).

[@BlueBirdGTV]

Yes! I'm way less intimidated ❤ I'm not interested in speed painting as such. But I'm so keen to start painting models and I'm not worried about mistakes. Love love love that there is StarWars content as well as creatures.

[@ArtisOpus]

Thanks man, I love the vehicles from SWL so much, some of the best to paint IMO. Our channel should be perfect for you, a lot of it is practical, and the mistakes are limited by the technique, so you don't needto fix them a lot of the time :)

[@bevanwilson8820]

This was great. I love a good deep dive! My suggestion may be a little out there but bare with me... Ok. It's just been Christmas and you may have a Christmas bauble that's cracked on you... ok.... Get this bauble and prime it. Then paint it like a Voltorb (an orb of energy or something could be cool too) applying your high level slap chop technique to give it life and a little OSL... lets see how good you can make something with absolutely no texture :P

[@vladimirpotrosky7855]

Love the longer format. Would love to see more follow up videos for large models like this. Big, centerpiece models always intimidate me and the more of them I see you do, the more ideas and confidence I get to try them out myself

[@ArtisOpus]

Hey dude, catching up! Thanks so much for the kind words, I love big minis, and feel like we should cover all the greater demons, I can guarantee more chunky bois on the channel in the future :). Tomorrow's video is 45mins, you'll have your wish (although it's a smaller mini)

[@valley_robot]

I've been doing this forever, I thought I invented it

[@Nosferatuklown]

I would pay so much money if a company like Pro Acryl would team up with you guys to come out with a line of dry brush paints, formulated to not be as chalky, maybe just even a color primer line to undercoat with colors with the grip of a primer

[@karmaq8462]

Pro acryl are already not like that when you use them with a dry brush lol , you need to not use then on a wet pallete or dry pallete but on a glass pallete .

[@grumpiegaming3307]

Really try the suggestion from the video. if you are using a paper towel stop. try something like a texture palate that will not remove the medium and something like a dampening pad that will add a very tiny bit of moisture. this will help prevent the chalk look. To help a little more after dry brushing always be sure to take a large (I use a makeup brush) to dust off any of the pigment that did not actually stick to the model.

[@Nosferatuklown]

I'm just saying a basic primer set branded Artis Opus would be cool to have, the reason I threw out Pro Acryls name is because I love their paint and primer and seeing the two companies working together would be cool. Nice primers from an amazing company with sexy wooden cases....maybe in small glass blotting jars like our dampening pad jar.

[@ArtisOpus]

We'll definitely be covering controlling over-matte finishes in the future, they don't help the process, I've recently come up with a few tips that really help :)

[@geteavnroc2250]

Great video, but you missed one very important tip: Always start from the lowest level of a model, and work yourself up. Meaning, if you have a model with skin, and then armor/leather straps/etc on top of that skin, paint the skin first and foremost, so you can clean up the other bits with a little white, and then proceed to paint those bits. I noticed that when you were painting the armor surrounding the gold trim, you kinda screwed yourself, by painting the trim first, and then the armor plating underneath it. Another great tip, is to go back and drybrush over your contrast paint, as it adds quite a bit to the overall effect.

[@ArtisOpus]

Hey dude, sometimes correct, but here it was actually a specifically chosen sequence, lighter colour first, darker second to hide mistakes in one go. FIOL (First Inside, Outside Last) is great generally, but not always IMO. I mentioned the drybrush, it's what I'd do on a personal project for sure, agree entirely, it's ultra-efficient.

[@samh62695]

I would appreciate a speed paint guide that doesn’t use contrast paints. Maybe focusing in on how you can use dry brushing and regular paints.

[@ArtisOpus]

Great call, are we 'allowed' shades? I have something specific in mind for this. Let us know what you think of tomorrow's video, it's roughly this topic, if not exactly!

[@GoobertownHobbies]

I finally found an hour to watch this- very handy, thank you!! 🙂

[@ArtisOpus]

Cheers, Brent! You dropped your speed painting video just before this one, loved watching it :), and it was nice to see similarities. I still think slightly slower drybrushing is the mega-hack that compliments perfectly, but we may be a little biased here 😉

[@oxddr]

For me, the best thing about the slapchop is that gives you a good start for many, more advanced techniques. For years I was afraid of painting some miniatures as I didn't want to ruin them. Now I keep painting them, because I know I can always improve them later on, once I learn those techniques better. I'd love to see what can you add on top of miniature painted with slapshop to make it even better (poppier, more contrast etc). Thanks for the video, I like the more in-depth format a lot!

[@flowinsounds]

my method is to spray base and zenithal with dark/light tone, then enamel pin line to get the contrast back, then drybrush, just to program the light source in from the start. also, "winey, deep, unctuous" , or why brit commentary is the best. by the way, have you tried Instar's "water+", works way better than water for diluting. keeps the pigment more together, somehow. follow up would be the best methods to go from the slapchop to a really stunning perceptual tabletop piece. from edge highlights, to whatever else there is (i know only the first)

[@Mikester88]

I feel like the only logical follow up is you building and painting a base suited for such a beast! Very nice work with the vid, nice and clear with the facts in the beginning but we still got to see you paint and implement everything in the model. Happy holidays!

[@ArtisOpus]

This makes a lot of sense... *and* it could be an excuse to try and workout if OSL is doable with slapchop, great suggestion, Sir, you too!

[@Creay_Miniature_Gaming]

Would it be worth the time to base-coat different areas in different colours, on the same model. Eg, dark green for ork skin and then brown for the leather coat? This could be a good follow up. Sorry if you answered this in the second half of the video. Just watch the first half while feeding my baby boy at 2am and going to watch the rest in the morning.

[@ArtisOpus]

No worries my dude! We didn't cover this, but it's absolutely worth it. I generally try and find a colour that will work for both/all/as much as possible, this is mostly about efficiency/lazyness though. Sometimes it can help with coherency, too. E.g. In your scenario I'd start deep dark purple, it'd look amazing going to green, or worn brown/orange/other leather colours.

[@Creay_Miniature_Gaming]

@@ArtisOpus thank you for the reply. Just finishing watching the video now. Going to give this painting style a try on my new kill team army. Also, i don’t mind if they are all a little bit different, so can try both options. 👍🏼 Really love your tutorials. Even caught my wife watching them over top of her phone and she has no interest in the hobby, lol.

[@miloszmazur1915]

Excelent material! One, simply, question. What material is your texture mat made of? How to clean this mat from paint?

[@joshuatatton531]

You have shown a highly textured model, I think a full sized knight in slap chop would be the best follow up- it would allow for a larger demonstration of metallic / NMM and also how you tackle large flat areas. The format was excellent, as was the editing. The only addition I would like is a stop watch going in the background to give an idea of timeframes using this method.

[@ArtisOpus]

That's a fantastic suggestion dude, consider it noted!

[@colouredIncognito]

Any suggestions one a colour to prime a model with, that i'll build up towards Turquoise?

[@ArtisOpus]

Surprisingly, deep purple! For a more linear progression deeeep blue (huldra) is great, too.

[@colouredIncognito]

@@ArtisOpus any spray options?

[@loydmorton9134]

Thanks for the vid !!! Enjoyed the process

[@ArtisOpus]

Our pleasure, buddy! Glad it was worth the megaedit :)

[@GrievelornTCG]

I think a follow up of the same method but in an assembly line painting version would be great. Having big character models with lots of details are a good example piece. But having a bung of troop units needing to be painted and going over the techniques of setting that up would be great. Either that or vehicle pieces with little to no detail to work with.

[@kojote]

Try out batch painting as search term, if you don't already know it

[@CensorOCE]

This an amazing video been recently getting into painting minis warhammer very curious on the texture Matt and what paint to prime it with

[@ArtisOpus]

Whatever primer you use on your minis dude, you want it as close to them as possible (you test there before your mini, make mistakes there instead, etc)

[@CensorOCE]

@@ArtisOpus Ty very much

[@bensrpgpile2]

I really dig the dry brush matte you made. Anyone buy that from somewhere or 3D print a version that they could share a link?

[@ArtisOpus]

Thanks man, we designed it ourselves, actually :) store.artis-opus.com/ Element games stocks it also

[@larryblevins8078]

Thanks for the tutorial it gave alota ideas.

[@ArtisOpus]

Thanks buddy, our pleasure!

[@Dudemon-1]

My minis always turn out without vibrancy. Why?

[@ArtisOpus]

Basecoat colour and two coats of contrast buddy :). Worth rewatching both of these sections, they make a big difference.

[@Dudemon-1]

@@ArtisOpus -- Thanks! I haven't changed basecoat, because I liked the darker shadows, but even heavy white drybrushing didn't help. So, I'll try it.

[@clubjer]

Well, as Brent over on Gobbertown Hobbies said, " The French had 700 years to convince me (us) to use the word "grisaille" and they failed completely, The Honest Wargamer got us to use Slapchop with a single KZbin video." Kind of a testament on how a simple change in language can make an old technique less intimidating and well...quite frankly...pretentious.

[@ArtisOpus]

Absolutely buddy! I loved that video of Brent's, a quarter of the time to make the same points as us, with science ^^

[@hesthepipsta]

Excellent video. I have a quick question that I don't think has yet been covered - would you get an even better result using paints formulated for airbrush (e.g. Vallejo Air range), as they have a finer pigment size and would therefore help avoid the potential for a chalky finish (especially with using white)? Thanks

[@ArtisOpus]

Potentially yes! Some ranges/colours have smaller pigments in general, and it's definitely helpful, the 'issue' with airbrush paints is how wet some of them are, as they come pre-thinned, my preference is jumping between the paints I know work from different ranges, which I guess isn't the simple answer you're after, unfortunately! :)

[@nicolaim7061]

have you used a airbrush for the basecoat or spray? Cannot World bearers as a spray

[@bearded_gamer_88]

Glad I found your channel. This video helped me out a lot.

[@ArtisOpus]

Sorry for the delay! You're welcome my man, and there's plenty more where this came from, watch this space over the next two weeks for some more contrast-tech 🐱‍🐉🐲🐲 :)

[@bearded_gamer_88]

@@ArtisOpus awesome I can’t wait to check it out and learn more

[@NeuRomanCer1984]

Hej, For Slapchop i prime in 3 steps: Dark primer from down / side Mid primer from side zenithal only from top - short pulse Dark again on base (down) - very tiny bit Afterwards is use a wash in the tone of mid/dark primer to get my resesses back.

[@ArtisOpus]

Hey dude, makes loads of sense, suuuper efficient and dialed!

[@andersolsson1659]

First - It turned out amazing! =) I would like to see you use different "contrast" paints, Army painter, Scale 75 and so on.

[@ArtisOpus]

Cheers, buddy! I'm definitely interested in the Vallejo ones, sounds like they've undergone a pretty lengthy design process. When it doubt, and not with enough time, pick the people who took the longest, never fails to be the best of the bunch, product development shouldn't be rushed!

[@Fissi0nChips]

Do you just continually prime that dry palette?

[@mdforbes500]

"don't stroke it, poke it" "how wet they are... what's that called?" instructions unclear... now my wife is pregnant...

[@ArtisOpus]

HAAA, well, our job here is done! 🤱

[@timreeves]

Great video, really cleared up some ways of getting better slapchop results, i'm excited to try the methods at getting less chalky/spotty results. what I would really love is a deep dive on how to do colour schemes that are too pale for slapchop, my space marines are mainly a warm bone colour and I've been priming white, panel lining, then building up shade glazes with very thinned down skeleton horde - can you guys suggest some quicker or better ways? It seems like every painting tutorial from the last couple of years has ignored paler schemes! Also, quick question, why did your face cause the picture in the background to warp all over the place at the 17:10 mark?

[@thechunkydrummer]

My best guess - Focus shifting combined with odd compression issues…? Good spot!

[@travelingwithjeff]

Love the video, and your dry brushing is amazing. I do have quick question, sorry if it was asked in the prior 816 questions.. What is the model you were painting, it's amazing looking.

[@ArtisOpus]

No worries buddy :) 'Bloodthirster of Khorne': elementgames.co.uk/search?q=bloodthirster Thanks for the kind words!

[@marioreaver9647]

I hear about a thing called a wash when people are painting figures and buildings, I’m just starting out so what do I look for at the store to get the “wash” ? Also love the video so much info!

[@ArtisOpus]

Good question buddy - Citadel somewhat unhelpfully renamed their washes to 'shades' a while back, so we're talking about anything like that - they're semi-opaque (quite soft colours), and pool in recesses 'shading' them. Not to be confused with contrast, which are like a stronger version (they colour raised areas more than shades/washes)

[@pascalbedard5697]

This video is amazing! I really have to try that technique. There is one thing that I see you do in this video, and a few other ones that I have watched, that makes me wince and I would like an explanation. How can you go from one pot to another without cleaning your brush and not ruin those pots? I even saw you go into your medium with a brush that still has color on it (33:45)! Can you explain?

[@ArtisOpus]

Hey buddy, I'll let you in to a biiig secret: because it literally doesn't matter :D. Go fast, take the majority off (on palette/whatever), you'd be surprised. To help: Dip slow, leave slow, no 'wooshing' brush around in there. If you are going from 'wetter' (more liquid-y) to thicker it is more of a risk, but similar-similar viscosity it doesn't happen much., Ruining pots is *not* a thing, it's just something people get obsessive about, unless you're going from red-white or something. If I was using a white contrast I might use a different medium (mine's *slightly* tarnished). If you used maths to see how much a tiny percentage of paint in an already transparent medium mattered, when spread thin over a mini, the answer would basically be nothing :). Sh** like this is the reason people paint slow, it's unnecessary nerd-faff, took me a while to force myself to stop caring. I bet Picasso didn't concern himself with that type of stuff, speed is a big part of how I paint, and how I enjoy painting, I'll worry about mess later, minis are grey now!

[@simonkendrick3212]

Enjoyable video, just a quick question, I’ve got one of your textured pallets, should I prime it before use for the best results? Black spray can?

[@ArtisOpus]

I do, buddy. Makes it the most like a model, so most relevant for testing. I re-prime chaos black before each new product, literal clean slate, and fresh start :)

[@deanhankin4413]

Thanks for the video, incredibly useful, 1 question though, what can you do to contasts that behave like inks to improve their coverage?

[@ArtisOpus]

Their coverage is fine/too strong anyway, I'd add proportionally more medium, or another 'softer' contrast, skeleton horde, for example, to dilute them :)

[@benobyoutube]

Great video. I can see the obvious advantage of this on large models. How would you (or would you not) use this technique on small models? I have loads of lumineth it's taking me forever to paint

[@ArtisOpus]

Small is fine, we'll definitely do more in the future :). Lumineth do have a lot of details, our next video may be useful (it's on shades)

[@zynthio]

Why do people put so much paint on the pallet for dry brushing? He only touched like 20% of the paint and the rest just dried and wasted lol. Every tutorial I see for dry brushing does the same thing

[@ArtisOpus]

Because it aids the technique, and the last time I ran out of a non-contrast/wash paint was about 5 years back :)

[@EnzoSmithers]

loved the video, very informative and helpful. I'd love to see the same process on some smooth rank and file troops with less detail and sculpting, like Tau firewarriors or basic marine, I feel like it wont be as effective but would love to see you prove me wrong :)

[@ArtisOpus]

I'll take the challenge! This is definitely something a lot of people would find useful, and it's been requested a few times!

[@rickohanlon3370]

Very nice... Vallejo Gloss White works pretty well for the final drybrush on the pre highlighting stage as well. Less surface tension and all that👍

[@ArtisOpus]

This, sir, is a very interesting concept, thanks for the tip!