Tapper Your Dress Shirt The Proper Way | Tailor Teaches

We covered darts but let's talk about the proper way to take in the sides and sleeves of your dress shirts. Nothing sucks poop more than a poorly fit dress shirt.
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[@joesnyderburn4278]

You know it’s funny. I thought a dying art was auto body work. I can rebuild a car. But when it comes to rebuilding a shirt. This is a talent

[@mercedesmontes4890]

I like how you explain the process, you go to the point. I’m happy that I found your videos. 👍🏻 My regards from Croton, NY.

[@HeroPrinny]

Wow, I've never seen that fold in seam straight stitch technique before. That's amazing.

[@trkrla5113]

Hey, that's an excellent idea with the rough edges. I am new at this and trying to save a ton of cash and tailor my own shirts. I am in the process of buying a sewing machine. Now I know I've got two choices with those frayed edges. Thanks for sharing!

[@love2sew348]

love the video. Thank you for providing clear instructions. I'm going to give this a try.

[@johngriffith744]

This is precisely the next job I have to do to a shirt. Brilliant timing and a great video. Thank you.

[@AspiringGent]

John Griffith thanks! I’m glad it came in time!

[@qiuwbr091]

Thanks for that tip on finishing!

[@walterbanks5003]

Great information. Always appreciated.

[@john_dee1431]

Much thanks. This inspired me to purchase a favorite shirt that only comes in a larger fit to tailor it later.

[@ddreamax]

We did this in Fashion class, basicly sewing lotsa sewing.

[@QueenAmethyst55]

Love what you're wearing at the start of the video. 👍💯

[@emmadonlucas4112]

Dope!! Thank you for such easy videos!!!!

[@msecord8943]

That was excellent! Thanks.

[@trianonsailing7472]

I've got about 30 high end broadcloth dress shirts that don't fit after weight loss. This is going safe me a ton. Thank you.

[@AspiringGent]

Trianon Sailing let me know if you need any help during the process!

[@roberthoffhines5419]

same!

[@AhmadKhan-xz9ss]

@@AspiringGent I was wondering if you can help, I asked my dad to get about 18 of my dress shirts sleeves shortened about half an inch (mostly thrifted but Canali, Etons, Some Zegna and Armani so very special to me as rare even in thrifting) apart from that they are perfect. Well the tailor decided to shorten from the armpits instead of from the sleeve end, now they fit extremely tight on the armhole area. Is there anything that can possibly be done or am I an idiot

[@agent-ht5ri]

Dude’s a beast!

[@thatxonexguy5438]

Just in time since i got a new shirt in the mail that i got for cheap. Thank you!

[@AspiringGent]

ThatXoneXguy can’t wait to hear how it went! Send me a finished product on IG

[@buffyhail]

Thank you very much. It’s very simple and easy to follow.

[@AspiringGent]

Glad it was helpful!

[@PZingaro3]

Great explanation.. Thanks🙂

[@johng1097]

Great info !

[@JohnDoe-ub7lk]

Great video!

[@marinoceccotti9155]

Neat work, way cleaner than using the zig-zag stitching method. Now, try to raise your arms above your head while wearing this shirt.

[@raefblack7906]

Wow.. Just great.

[@tigergreg8]

You must be so good at your job. You make doing this look so easy, but for most people this is near impossible.

[@AspiringGent]

tigergreg8 it just takes a little bit of practice. I’ve been at this for 5 years nothing is built over night. Keep at it!

[@jotacalvo]

Great video, Louis, as always. Thanks for the help. I was hoping you’d get more detailed on how to taper the sleeve. I’m procrastinating on my shirts because (in my mind) I don’t know how to blend a fresh, flat felled seam into the existing one. I’m trying to taper the opposite way (at the cuff up to elbow). But I got some clues from this video. I think I just need to do it, because I’ll never figure it out by just sitting there, looking at it lol.

[@AspiringGent]

If you’re going down the sleeves just transition into the cuff and make a new flat felled seam.

[@ashcarter8318]

@@AspiringGent - thanks so much for the video! I had to watch it like 5 times and still struggled with trying to recreate the flat fell, particularly on the sleeve. Is this just me, or is it an impossible place to sew? Is there a trick, like is it easier to take the sleeve off? Or something else? Or is it not worth it and I should just live with blending the different seems somewhere up the back seem or sleeve seem (given all my dress shirts are flat fells?

[@SaraWoodhull]

Can we have a video on doing it with those flat field seams on the sleeve?

[@gloryunderfoot700]

Since you’ve been doing videos for awhile, would you consider revisiting some of these older videos and filming with better camera angles, framing, and a slightly more in depth look at some of the featured techniques? I like this video as it’s the only one I’ve seen so far that talks about starting with the correct fit in the neck and shoulders, and also features unpicking the sleeve and starting the adjustments there.

[@DB-bb5ll]

This is awesome! Can't seem to find the dart video

[@brad349miller]

Amazing.

[@Mas_Tun]

I do a french seam to make sure the edges are clean. But overall comes out similar to what you did

[@AspiringGent]

Mas Tun I like that idea! And would probably be easier. Normally I use a serger. I wonder how it works on the sleeve seam

[@Fflovver]

Ok *phew* I’ve been doing it pretty similarly😅 I thought there was a more efficient way to do it apparently not which is good👍

[@INtelshow]

If you were to do this hand sewn, would you do anything different? I think I have some apprehension about strength going all the way up the side thru the sleeve to the cuff.

[@alialg1621]

Welcome back

[@AspiringGent]

Ali Al garni thanks!

[@PZingaro3]

Thanks

[@firpofutbol]

Question: if you want to both taper and shorten a shirt, which part do you do first?

[@LeonidBerejansky]

Hi Louis, thanks for explanation! I’m trying to alter my work dress shirt and it has a chest pocket. When I slim the shirt on sides, the pocket is “sliding” towards the seam. Is there a way to make the shirt look million shekels with symmetrical pocket without removing it from the shirt?

[@jjaylad]

New to this channel Louis. Great teaching! I have many shirts that are too boxy so have been taking them in, and this shows my amateur process is kinda/sorta similar. Many of my shirts have double seams. I can just top stitch or add a second stitch from the inside to create the double stitched look on the side seams of the body, but can't do that on the sleeves as I can't get in there to do it, so those end up with just the single seam. Is there any way to create that 'double' seam on the arm as well?

[@AspiringGent]

There is but it take a a good but of extra prep. Perhaps I'll need to make a video on it!

[@aromireolugbengasamuel3541]

Pls can oversized shoulder be adjusted i.e shoulder measurement

[@ericilkwatson5557]

Hi there! I was hoping to get some advice on tailoring my shirts. I'm a man with broad shoulders and a larger chest, but my hands are quite thin. Because of this, I often have to buy larger shirts, which means that I end up with too much material in the sleeves with "bat wings." I've been trying to find videos online that can show me how to remove this extra material, but most of them focus on removing material from the sides and the sleeves at the same time. Do you have any tips on how to tailor shirt sleeves specifically? Thank you!

[@petercortez6555]

I want to try this at home. I need to shorten the sleeve length as well as taper the sleeve. Is there one that I should do first or it doesn’t matter?

[@l121345]

Is it a bit of a pain in the a** if the dress shirt sleeves have a double top stitch on the inner seam where you would take it in? I've got a double needle (as of today) but curious if it's just aesthetically it'll just be a bit off

[@wisconsinwoodsman1987]

So I did not remove any stitching from the sleeve. I have sewed down to the cuff. When I turn it right side out, I have a pucker where the new seam meets the cuff. Should I have joined the old seam line with the new above the cuff? Just trying to figure out what I did wrong. Tnx.

[@rl6175]

watched several times over to grasp what is actually being demonstrated…the shirt is turned inside for the transfer of measurements? the stitching is laid down, fabric cut, seems dealt with all with shirt inside out? yes? newbie here. just learning.

[@marinoceccotti9155]

I used this method and it's good. One can also use a French seam, calculating the seam allowances yadah yadah. But both methods leave a ridge inside the shirt. I'd really really like to know how they do flat felled seams on sleeves (the seam you opened up in this video) in the industry, as I can't figure it out. Are there dedicated machines ?

[@zaniac100]

I have never done a French seam before. I've watched videos about the French seam. As I understand it, to do a French seam with this alteration, you first sew a straight stitch with the shirt right side out. Then press seams, turn inside out, and trim down the seam allowance. Then, with shirt inside out, sew a straight stitch to enclose the seam allowances. Also if I understand it right, your first stitch needs to be a few millimetres looser / more generous than the final fit, because the second stitch comes in tighter again.

[@AspiringGent]

kzbin.info/www/bejne/mqiqoKqEgMeDitU

[@OldspeedMFG]

They use what's called a feed-off-the-arm triple needle machine which basically puts the bobbin inside the sleeve or pantleg and forms the tube around itself, creating both lock stitches of the flat felled seam at the same time.

[@ai_vfx856]

Like your channel :)

[@LiamM0510]

Hi could you do a tutorial on how we get the same finish as the shirt starts with. I forget what it’s call but I mean where you have two lines on stitches on the outside. I know on a sleeve it’s complex/harder as if not careful could sew the fabric together

[@RaeHalful]

this is what i thought he was doing but doesn't look look like he recreated this stitch and that is what i am trying to replicate!

[@brad349miller]

Question; my pant size is a 28 waist. So why when I measure it, the tape reads 46?

[@kohjb]

Great video, but a bit fast for a newbie. Was the sewing done with the shirt inside out? It didn't look like it... but I'm guessing it has to be?

[@robertmilo5203]

Yes sewing is done with the shirt inside out.

[@phiksngi2890]

I tried this but the under-arm messed up.

[@MiloKolb]

are there any benefits to pinning the shirt instead of using a well fitting shirt as a template?

[@AspiringGent]

I find it more efficient

[@marcrodill2686]

How do you pull out a long piece of thread like that on the cuff?

[@marcrodill2686]

Did you cut every third stitch on the other side? Or did you get about an inch or so cut in the front, pull on it to gather it up, cut the other end loose, then go back and pull from the front again?

[@safecracker77]

How do you handle the odd looking transition from your hem on the sleeve to the original hem towards the cuff?

[@AspiringGent]

It’s kinda art yo explain on text but it’s all about getting it smoothly into the old stitching. You can take out both rows of stitching and go all the way down the sleeve every-time to get the cleanest look.

[@safecracker77]

@@AspiringGent thanks! That makes sense. When I did it, I got my flat felled seam on the wrong side by accident... I will try better next time.

[@absinthone]

Your finishing stitches after folding the seam into itself ironing & topstitched, French Seam ?

[@AspiringGent]

Not quite but one can be used.

[@Musakforyou]

What do you do with the ‘pirate’ cuffs, they look pretty baggy?

[@AspiringGent]

If the cuff is too big you need to get a new one.

[@armandol1826]

Taper waistcoat next please!! It's not on KZbin at all

[@AspiringGent]

Hugo Lizardi will do! Those are easy!

[@SGong33]

Dumb question but your turned the shirt inside out to do this right?

[@masarratfar]

Same question here. I watched it a few times. I reckon should be inside out.

[@Theyralltakenfu]

Damn, I just noticed something, there is a guy on YT who could be your brother. You guys look so similar. Look up Graham Stephan,

[@mlasch1478]

HAHA @ Darts

[@namelessanonymous5216]

Somebody plz teach me how to DIY loosen/enlarge/stretch a piece of stitched clothing with a few cm marging left in them while stitching.

[@krollic]

you can't change the armholes, right?

[@AspiringGent]

krollic you can change them. As long as you’re making them smaller.

[@krollic]

@@AspiringGent I'd need excess material in the bodies armhole though right? I'd like to raise (shrink some of the armholes on my suits and shirts but I fear there wouldn't be enough excess

[@dorandogrande983]

With all respect, good job but not the best way...

[@AspiringGent]

Dorando Grande how would you go about it?

[@Yanan49]

Please use 'taper' instead of 'tapper' in your title. Are you sewing on the right side of the shirt? It looks like that in the video but you don't say so explicitly. It looks like what you are doing is a flat fell seam, But at the end you are just pressing it to one side rather than topstitching down. In which case you must have been sewing it on the wrong side with the seam allowance ending up on the wrong side of the shirt. Finally, how do you merge the new seam with the old seam on the sleeve?

[@reason377]

Females watch this too.