Assembling a Weber 40 IDTP Triple Barrel Carburetor. Part 1, Gallery Plugs To Throttle Plates

This is the third video in our full build series. Part one of a three-part assembly. From disassembly, cleaning, and now re-assembly. Catch up with the two previous lessons. In this lesson, we show you how to re-install and test the gallery plugs, and throttle plates.
We are using new throttle plates and new throttle shafts. By the end of this lesson, you will be ready for part 2 of the assembly series, all about the accelerator pump circuit.
In this lesson we use
Drill bit 1.75mm, amzn.to/38C8NTj
Metric Taps
M5x.8mm, amzn.to/2LK4Mn1
M7x1mm, amzn.to/35CDCFu
M4 x.7mm bottoming, amzn.to/3spJUCq
Lead Shot, amzn.to/35xR0uH
Red Loctite, amzn.to/3qh2Px7
Lanox Lubricant, amzn.to/35CbNxk
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[@culturedredneckgarage3784]

So many great tips and tricks here in this video! Thank you for giving such a thorough and detailed video!

[@klassikats]

Glad it was helpful! Kurt

[@kavs911]

Another great video Kurt & Sarah! Keep them coming!

[@klassikats]

Thanks Kav ! Kurt

[@fritzelferhelfer1889]

You have done a great job with a lot of information. I really enjoy how you enjoy your knowledge and how you share it, well done. Actually I’m rebuilding a set of Weber IDA(S) and I’m also thinking about Cerakote. So far I made very good experience on the MFI throttle bodies and also on the exhaust systems. Sometimes it’s a challenge do get paint for DIY in Europe... nearly impossible for Alodine. How do you prepare the weber housings and which Cerakote color do you use? Do you aquablast the parts before the spraying…. Corrosion is quite often an important question during restoration, especially the magnesium and aluminum parts from the Porsches.

[@klassikats]

Fritz, We prepare the carburetor bodies using a glass bead/aluminum oxide media. You have to be careful when using a glass bead as Cerakote does not recommend it as it will tend to smooth the surface of the carburetor. Cerakote is looking for a certain amount of surface roughness to adhere to. When it comes to colors we use to different ones, For early cars I use there Aluminum clear finish, MC-5100P. It is super clear and does not require baking after application. The finish is so smooth after application and nothing tends to stick to the bodies at all. The other thing I really like is that the coating is specifically made to bond to aluminum. When applying a color I have been using the Hazel Green, H-204P, followed by a coat of the ceramic clear MC-160T. The color is Ok and the clear makes it look really good. The color is a bake on finish so you will need an oven to properly cure the paint. The other thing I really like about using Cerakote is the corrosion protection it provides. You are hard pressed to find any other coating that gives you the same protections. Thanks Kurt

[@oldschool1993]

You got that ball socket in crooked.

[@klassikats]

Video did not show the completed installation and the ball socket was still sitting up on the linkage. The final peen pulls the ball stud all the way into the throttle linkage.

[@356type]

Nice looking finish! Is that Alodine treatment or anodizing?

[@klassikats]

Ignacio, It is a form of andizing that is designed specifically for cast aluminum parts. Thanks for watching Kurt

[@jakew6516]

For the cerekote finish, are you also coating the inner portion of the carb body, and are you plugging the different ports and thread before hand and if so what are you using to do it? Thanks for the great video!!

[@klassikats]

Jake, No I'm not coating the inside of the carburetor although in theory you could if you desired. No I do not plug any of the threads or holes in the carburetor body. The coating is applied so lightly that the amount of Cerakote that enters these areas is negligible. We are doing another carburetor set right now and we will show in more detail the Cerakote process. Thanks for watching Kurt

[@jakew6516]

Awesome thanks so much Kurt!