AstrHori XH-2 - Is it an Upgrade over the AH-M1?

[@davidmatney5033]

Thank you for a great and thorough review! I just purchased for use on a TLR (Mamiya C220 Pro) which should work nicely. Obviously I'll watch for a proper future update to address the Exp Comp issue, etc.

[@vintagecameradigest]

It's a nice little meter, and it should work well with the TLR. I use mine with my Yashica Mat-124G, and it hardly ever lets me down. I do hope they will address the exp comp issue at some point.

[@markandrst8767]

Thank you. Nice review.

[@vintagecameradigest]

Thanks for watching!

[@markandrst8767]

@@vintagecameradigest I like watching your videos. I am glad I found you.

[@vintagecameradigest]

I’m glad you found the channel, too! Cheers!

[@rodcencko]

I tested a similar light meter and my biggest concern was that it was very difficult to see the display in bright light, plus at a certain age seeing up close is problematic without glasses- so I switched to a classical Sekonic L-208 with a scale and a needle . Maybe in the future I will give a new try …

[@vintagecameradigest]

Thank you! In really bright light, direct sun, the display is readable - but not anywhere as bright as it is otherwise. The screen has a matte finish (kinda like the old Kindle screens) so that does make it easier. In any other situation, though, the screen is very contrasty with the shutter and f/stop info in larger type than the rest. Very easy to see and read.

[@IceBergs]

I bought one of those AHM1s in an aliexpress sale for 39 bucks. I've used it a lot the past year and maybe charged it a total of 3 times. It's pretty good and honestly I love just keeping it in my pocket, my friend had an amazing idea of making a hot shoe watch so that you could wear it on your wrist. We'll see how that comes out. Love your Nikkor 2.8 on the Bronica it's one of my favorite lenses of all time

[@vintagecameradigest]

I think I’ve charged my AH-M1 once since I got it in December. Great battery life, no doubt. The hot-shoe watch is a clever idea! I’d like to see what you come up with for that. Keep me posted!

[@jw48335]

My keks01 meter has a movable shoe as well, which is great for the Fujica GW. I use it on my Konica IIIA as well. I didn't like the Astrhori because of the screen on top instead of rear facing. It was ok on my TLR with a 90 degree shoe adapter, but these days I use a Kiev metering prism on my C220. Great stuff sir!

[@vintagecameradigest]

I think the moveable shoe is terrific feature. It’s a shame they didn’t continue that with this model. I can also see where the rear-facing info would be a benefit, as well. And it’s worth considering that when shopping for one of these. BTW - I used to use a Kiev meter prism on a Hassy 500C. It was sure handy!

[@jw48335]

@@vintagecameradigest My neck doesn't like looking down into the WLF these days, so the 45-degree prism is a life-saver:) It's funny - the prism is a Hartblei, and it's so much better than the native Mamiya prism / porrofinder options. Cheers

[@nowwithvitaminr]

Terrific video! subbed!

[@vintagecameradigest]

Awesome, thank you!

[@nvrumi]

Thanks for a solid review. I have the first version and it appears to be a solid unit, save the exposure compensation feature. While I use exposure compensation a fair bit on my digital cameras (while watching the histogram on the EVF), I don't general use it with my film cameras. I prefer to make the adjustment with a quick mental calculation using input from the meter and my eyeballs. I've also been known to point the meter directly at the subject I want to be exposed as a medium gray, then recompose for the shot. All that means is that I elected not to use the exposure compensation "feature" of the AH-M1 and use my brain and eyeballs instead. Like you, I figure if I set the exposure comp I'll forget it and then be stomping and cursing when my negatives come out incorrectly exposed. ;) I don't have a film rangefinder camera. I think I might like one, but have no idea where to start. In the meantime, I have *plenty* of film cameras to play with. Now that I'm home (from the long roadtrip), I find that one of my Konica Autoreflex cameras (a T2 I think) has had the battery conversion done so it will use Alkaline or Silver Oxide cells. (Greg Weber did the conversion.) I want to get that camera out and put some film through it. The M1 would probably be a good accessory for that effort. I'm going to reach out to Weber later this week and see if he is responding to email/phone calls. I hope he is OK. I visited with him several times several years ago when I had some work done on my Konicas and he seemed like a really nice guy and a helluva technician as well.

[@vintagecameradigest]

That AutoReflex should be awesome - you know I like mine! The deal with the exposure compensation doesn’t affect me much, either, to be honest. In all my years of photographing, I’ll wager that you could count the times I’ve used it on a film camera on two hands. I’m most likely going to be shooting in manual mode, so I can just make adjustments from there. I suppose it would be handy to have if you need to set a filter factor or something like that. Otherwise, I’m just going to bracket exposures if it’s a really tricky scene.

[@mhc2b]

Owning a Yashica twin lens & a Hasselblad 501CM, each with a cold shoe, one of these neat little meters is starting to look good. Currently I carry a Sekonic incident meter and a Pentax spot meter. One dangles around my neck, and the other finds a pocket to rest in. This little XH-2 would certainly be more convenient, and a lot less bulk to carry around.

[@vintagecameradigest]

I do like the size of these. I usually have a meter of some sort dangling around my neck too, and it bugs me. I’d much rather stick it in my pocket. But pockets need to be pretty loose to fit my spot meter, lol. I think a lot of us spot meter users would be hard to convince to use something like this meter instead of anything else. But these do have their place, for sure.

[@311djr]

Another great review as always. I use my spotmeter all the time, but I can see that this would a welcome addition to any kit for its small size. One question though that was already asked. Can us older guys read the dials OK or do we need to use reading glasses for this?

[@vintagecameradigest]

Well, I didn’t have to use my reading glasses, so I think we older folks should be ok. It’s a VERY contrasty screen - white text on black field. And the shutter -f/stop info is in larger typeface than the rest. So, even though it’s a small screen, I think it’s quite legible.

[@michaelcase8574]

I think they figure that the EI will be used to calibrate the meter to sync with a reference meter and not so much for other purposes. Might be their thinking.

[@vintagecameradigest]

Maybe so. Could make sense.

[@cnicolo]

Thank you for sharing this informations, but I don’t know, I would rather prefer placing the bubble level on the hot shoe than having the light meter. Maybe if they do a clip under it, than I can clip it to the shirt and use it freely. Or the typical lace, I don’t think it will be heavier than a Sekonic(no matter what model one)

[@vintagecameradigest]

It feels solid, but not too heavy - and certainly not as heavy as a Sekonic. I think the only thing that really ties it in to an accessory shoe is that if it’s mounted in one, it’s automatically facing the same direction as the camera. That being said, I don’t think it would be an issue for most folks to use it off-camera.

[@ronaldmoscatello6441]

Can you please tell me what Minolta Spot Meter you use !

[@vintagecameradigest]

Absolutely! It's a Minolta Spotmeter F

[@ronaldmoscatello6441]

@@vintagecameradigest It is very expensive. Are there cheaper ones that also average shadows and highlights

[@ronaldmoscatello6441]

I found an F from Japan in mint condition for $200 .. I just have to get a user manual. By the way I have a Kowa 6 for 45 years. A Cannon Rebel X 35mm Film Camera. A Cannon R7 and a Cannon R5. I love all my cameras. And I also bought a New Cannon T5i for $100. I should recieve it soon.

[@vintagecameradigest]

I bought mine about 6 years ago and paid around $160 for it, I believe. I do know that there is the “non-F” version which doesn’t meter flash. I’ve not used mine for flash-metering much at all. But glad you found one for a good price. I originally was seeking the old famous Pentax Spotmeter - but those were more expensive than the Minolta! Sounds like you’ve got a great set of cameras, too! Cheers!

[@KristianDowling]

Strange how the company has removed both light meter products from sale. Not a good sign

[@vintagecameradigest]

Looks like it’s still available on Amazon. In the US at least.

[@KristianDowling]

@@vintagecameradigest still not reassuring when they wipe the product from their own website 🤔

[@vintagecameradigest]

Yeah, you’re right…that doesn’t make a lot of sense. I didn’t think to look at their actual site. Even in their Amazon store they only list the older version, BUT the new one is still available - just not in their “store”. Doesn’t spark a ton of confidence, I’ll admit.

[@rossmansell5877]

Is it an upgrade.?? Apparently it has a new lens..its convex

[@vintagecameradigest]

It is a slight upgrade. But I don’t think the lens design changes anything at all about it. The most noticeable improvement IMO is that the dial now has click-stops that actually correspond to a change in the displayed value. In the first design, the dial clicked, but that didn’t mean the that the value on the display did. Sometimes it would click multiple times before anything changed.

[@nipponiacs]

I bought the first one. It lasted 2 months, the button got stuck and the company didn’t return my mails to try to fix it or exchange. no guarantee at all. Buy it at your own risk.

[@vintagecameradigest]

Thanks for the feedback. I’ve not had to try to contact them regarding customer service. So, your perspective is welcome. Otherwise, it’s a bit of an unknown. Sorry you had that experience.

[@TechLair]

I faced the same issue with the M1 I reached out to the seller on Aliexpress and they replaced mine with the XH2

[@nipponiacs]

@@TechLair I bought mine from Amazon Japan, and it happened after expired the 30 days to return the product. I sent emails for Astrhori but no replies. On their official youtube channel they ask me to write to a google address😬 and didn’t work either.

[@vintagecameradigest]

@TechLair @nipponiacs Thanks for this information. Customer service is incredibly important to me. So I value your insight on these experiences.

[@vintagecameradigest]

@@TechLair That’s good to hear

[@dmystify1381]

i dont see the logic in this demo....the meter is giving you readings...aaand then you go & choose your own.....you provide no clarity as to whether this meter is accurate or not.

[@vintagecameradigest]

Sorry this wasn’t clear. But I’m using the meter to find a base exposure - say 1/60 at f/5.6. But then I can change one for whatever reason and change the other to balance it. So starting with 1/60 at f/5.6, I can modify that to 1/125 at f/4, or 1/250 at f/2.8. But these are still based on the original reading. These are the exact same exposures. But the practical effects of the motion control and depth of field will be different. If there’s a case where I doubt the base reading, I may decide to bracket the exposure by shooting one stop over or one stop under. Hope this helps. Let me know.

[@nikcleese6058]

Avoid this company. My ahm1 stopped working afyer 6 months of very light use.

[@vintagecameradigest]

Thanks for the honest feedback. I like to hear all sides of a story. I’ve only used mine a handful of times really. Was the problem because the battery wouldn’t charge? Or something else?

[@jarosawzon4272]

They should make an adapter for the SLR that would allow the light meter to be moved forward. I bought this light meter. I have some old cold shoe. I will make such an adapter myself.

[@vintagecameradigest]

That is a good idea. I can’t understand the train of thought that led to this design issue. It’s glaringly apparent. At least it doesn’t seem as problematic as I initially thought when I saw it.