How to improve your Newtonian telescope with a few EASY steps

How to improve your Newtonian telescope with a few EASY steps
#astrophotography #telescope #easysteps
kzbin.info?...
00:00 Intro to the How to improve your telescope
00:45 check the link to modifications to your telescope
01:19 skywatcher pds 130 thoughts on performance
03:05 Astrobloke intro youtube
03:36 Skywatcher 130 pds without rings ready for modification
04:09 How to Remove the primary mirror on the skywatcher 130 pds
05:15 Removing the front collar on the skywatcher 130 pds and secondary mirror
07:28 How to remove the focuser on your Newtonian telescope
10:45 How to improve the secondary mirror on your Newtonian Telescope with paint
14:30 How to remove your primary mirror from the rear element of your newtonian telescope
20:00 How to paint the primary mirror on a newtonian telescope
20:45 How to remove reflection from a newtonian focuser
24:18 How to rebuild a newtonian telescope
31:18 • Sky Watcher 130PDS New... Testing Modifications to the skywatcher newtonian telescope
How to Boost your Newtonian scope. I made a mod to improve the performance of my 130PDS
Internal reflections can ruin an image. So I make some changes to my scope to hopefully reduce this risk.
After buying an OOUK CT10 I saw some design features that I thought I could implement to my budget Newt and make it perform better.
Here are links to Amazon for the paint I used
amzn.to/3DgP35C
amzn.to/3IOQfyg
If you are looking to upgrade your telescope, there are a few things you might consider:
Aperture: The size of the telescope's main lens or mirror (called the aperture) is an important factor that determines the amount of light the telescope can gather. A larger aperture means you will be able to see fainter objects and more detail.
Type of telescope: There are several different types of telescopes, including refractors, reflectors, and catadioptrics. Each type has its own strengths and weaknesses, so it's important to consider which type is best suited for your needs.
Other features: There are many other features you might consider when upgrading your telescope, such as computerized mounts, specialized eyepieces, and advanced imaging technologies.
7 essential Tips to upgrade your Newtonian
• 7 essential tips and u...
www.Astrobloke.co.uk Where you can view all my images and order prints.
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Equipment I use, these links cost you no more to use but will earn my channel a small commission. It all helps support the channel.
Mele Quieter 2 PC -
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OPT links to equipment. Even if you click this link and then purchase something I get a small commission at no extra cost to you. Really helps my channel out, Thank you
Mounts
Sky Watcher EQ8R PRO bit.ly/39HVTpR
Sky Watcher EQ6R Pro bit.ly/3i1afU0
Sky Watcher HEQ5 bit.ly/2Ty7BeZ
Sky Watcher AZ GTI bit.ly/3iGmIvC
Cameras
ZWO ASI 294MM Pro bit.ly/2VbxNN6
ZWO ASI 183MM Pro bit.ly/3kSLPOs
ZWO ASI 290mm mini bit.ly/2UO71u6
ZWO ASI 120mm mini bit.ly/2Twjceu
Filters
Antlia 3nm bit.ly/3GhuaZl
Antlia LRGB bit.ly/3MDdca8
Chroma Oiii 3nm 1.25" bit.ly/3rviomS
Chroma Ha 3nm 1.25" bit.ly/2Wcsnlj
Optolong LRGB 1.25" set bit.ly/36ZtXJq
ZWO EFW Electronic filter wheel bit.ly/3fbmKe3
Telescopes
RC8 bit.ly/3x5AexT
Sky Watcher 130PDS
Zenithstar 61 bit.ly/2UEgFjc
William Optics 50mm guidescope bit.ly/36ZLYHK
Correctors
Sky Watcher 0.9Coma Corrector
Baader MPCC bit.ly/2V76LpZ
Astro Essential 0.75Reducer
William Optics Flat61A bit.ly/3zw9sAf
William Optics Flat 61R bit.ly/3BEvaEj
Accessories
Pegasus Astro pocket powerbox advance bit.ly/3iMFeSO
ZWO OAG Off Axis Guider bit.ly/3i1RIqD
ProLogik balance meter and tuning tool
www.prologik-astro.com/
The meter is of a high quality and works really well. Not only is it great for helping to find perfect balance in stiff mounts but it is a fantastic aid to fine tuning your mount for the best guiding. It will assist you in adjusting your worm drive/gear mesh to the optimum setting and giving you great smooth tracking and excellent guiding numbers.

[@mesenteria]

People underestimate how much shaking and mixing is required to thoroughly mix matte paints. The sludge at the bottom that makes it matte compresses and compacts over time and takes a lot of shaking to mix it into the substrate properly.

[@Astrobloke]

Yes paint always needs a lot more mixing than you think. I thoroughly mixed mine though, just didn’t video the whole process as I am sure my video was boring enough lol.

[@dereksmythe9042]

You share such great ideas and I cannot wait to see what results you get with it. Be amazing as always. Was great meeting you at PAS. Thanks for all you contributions to the Astrophotography world

[@Astrobloke]

Thank you Derek, thats very kind of you to say so and it was great meeting you too.

[@CosmuzzAstro]

Love your work shop videos Glenn. They are easy to follow along with. A steady hand needed for this one, you did a nice job and this should help many people out.

[@Astrobloke]

Thank you Ben. Follow up video on the way and a possible challenge accepted cut scene 😉😆

[@raypace6981]

Great video Glenn. Your enthusiasm for tinkering with Newtonians is amazing. I really enjoyed the video as I also enjoy fine tuning a newt. Thanks for all tips and I look forward to your next video after you put this upgrade to the test.

[@Astrobloke]

Thank you for watching and commenting Ray. I know its a reason I love the Newts because they are quite easy to work with and fun to tweak up. I have been imaging Bodes and Cigar galaxies with it and its looking very promising.

[@MartinKPettersson]

Love these videos. You can really tell how much you enjoy doing this and it feels like you're just hanging out with a friend fixing telescopes on a sunday afternoon :)

[@Astrobloke]

Thank you so much that is a very nice compliment. I do love the hobby and enjoy helping others by sharing what I have learnt. Thank you for taking the time to watch and comment, glad you enjoyed it

[@MartinKPettersson]

@@Astrobloke Yes, I've been bingewatching your videos :) Getting a 150P that's got an upgraded focuser so it's useable for astrophotography. Joined the fb forums and was wondering what your thoughts are on replacing the spider on the 150? It's quite a big investment but I can see how it would help with not needing to collimate so often. do you know if there are any diy solutions to improving the spider?

[@markbayfield6381]

Just love your channel Glenn. Your content makes you one of my fav channels to watch. Look forward to your next knockout image

[@Astrobloke]

Mark thats such a nice comment thank you. I am really glad you are enjoying it and thank you so much for your support.

[@SimonsAstro]

Excellent job Glenn! Didn’t look too bad a job, still not sure that I would have done it! Hope it makes it even better! Looks like a great clear sky tonight and tomorrow! Pity we’re not going to Dunwhich tomorrow, looks like the perfect night, no wind or moon! Clear skies👍

[@Astrobloke]

Thanks Simon. Been grabbing lights with it and it all looks very promising. Always the way with the weather hey. We might be lucky when I am there next though, fingers crossed

[@AZ4Runner]

I very much enjoyed watching this video Glenn. Makes me wanna do my 8in reflector now.

[@Astrobloke]

Thanks Jason. I love how fun and easy they are to mod, you should go for it

[@andreya108]

It is a must have astrophotography mod for regular newtonians! I'd done similar to my SkyWatcher Explorer 200 a year ago. I can add some not obvious points. Many paints remain glossy after drying. One should test several paints to choose the most matte and not reflecting (check at different angles). To diminish star spikes secondary mirror spider should be painted too (it is black but too shiny).

[@andreya108]

Some acrylic paints one can buy in art stores give very good results.

[@Astrobloke]

The blackboard paint dried in a lovely dark black matt finish so very pleased with that. Thank you for the tip on the spider veins I didn't think of that.

[@cliveroberts415]

Great stuff, I have thought about this myself but I just know I would get paint all over the mirrors. I would recommend flocking the tube as the "matt" paint used is not as matt as you might think.

[@Astrobloke]

Hi Clive and thank you for your comments. It was quite easy painting the edges I found. Thank you for the info on flocking. I am definitely looking to do this so watch this space.

[@Martinko_Pcik]

Interesting video. I have used a black permanent marker for painting focuser tube and secondary mirror. It was fast and no disassembly was needed. I also used flocking material inside the focuser and on an opposite side of OTA tube facing the focuser. Watch for light around the focuser tube. I used flocking material to seal it as well

[@Astrobloke]

Thank you for watching and comment, great extra tips thank you,

[@tonyleece6381]

Great video mate. i did this to mine a year or so ago and it helped a lot. i was worried about paint coming away were the bearings and focus knob ran on the focus tube so i masked those areas off too. Also i painted the back of the primary too. All the best mate and clear skies

[@Astrobloke]

Hi Tony and thank you so much for taking the time to watch and comment on the video. Thank you for letting me know you painted the back of the mirror also, I just wasn't sure what to do. I am 3d printing a mask to cover the mirror clips and when I take it apart to fit I think I will paint the back of mine too. May replace that slip of paper with something a bit better too.

[@vicamaral]

@@Astrobloke Leave the paper out ,the mirror will cool faster,many Newtonian companies have vents and electric fans to cool mirror,mys is vented 130mm Celestron,Newtonian,and flocked everything,and got thinner vines ,that mirror was beautiful ,did you replated with real silver?.

[@Astrobloke]

@@vicamaral I have actually since designed and 3d printed a mod to not only cut down the light leak at the back but introduce a fan also. I have also just finished flocking it too.

[@dumpydalekobservatory]

Great video Glenn I take it this video was made before the PAS ;-) I did strip down a 200P & 250PX to clean the optics & to completely flock the 200P one thing I learnt when putting the secondary back together was to put a piece of paper between the mirror & the 3 clamps that hold the mirror in place to use it like a feeler gauge so the optics don't get pinched, that method always worked for me in the past. It always amazed me why Skywatcher have silver focus tubes probably the worst colour to have chosen.

[@Astrobloke]

Hi mate and thank you. Yes it was made a few weeks back. Thats a great tip on the mirror. so do you tighten to a point where you can just slide the paper out? I know what you mean. Its a shame they don't just design it so the focuser doesn't intrude into the tube at all. This is how my CT10 is designed.

[@dumpydalekobservatory]

@@Astrobloke Yes mate just tighten the screws so it just grabs the paper then pull it out as if they're tightened to much it can cause the mirror to be pinched & you could get weird shaped stars :-) I really need to fettle with my 10" newt but it could do with a focuser upgrade as I really don't like the standard Skywatcher one.

[@lukomatico]

Lovely work Glenn! - I've done the same thing to a few newts over the years, another classic point of trouble I've found on the Skywatcher newts is the primary mirror cell to tube connection, it can leak light quite badly! (nothing a few turns of electrical tape can't sort though haha!) It's great to see you going to the effort of showcasing these mods mate, a lot of people will benefit from this! Clear skies my friend :-D

[@Astrobloke]

Hi Luke and thanks mate. I have noticed the light leak at the back and the fact its blocked by just a piece of paper which is glossy one side it doesn't surprise me at all. I am in the process of 3d printing a mask for the primary mirror clips and I think at the same time will address the back and put something better there. Clear skies mate

[@philleng480]

@@Astrobloke i was about to say what about an aperture mask for the clips. Cereal box, scissors, and black paint. 3d print longer lasting.

[@Astrobloke]

So many things you can do and great tips thank you.

[@avt_astro206]

Excellent Video Glenn. A Newtonian Owner Hear, some very Useful tips!!

[@Astrobloke]

Glad you enjoyed it. Great scopes

[@psegre]

Wow, this was very interesting to see everything disassembled in detail, thanks. Quick note, if you rotate the Focuser/camera to face downwards, their weight be very close to the spin axis of the mount, so you’ll greatly reducer the moment of inertia of the telescope and need much less weight to counterbalance it. In other words, leave the scope in the rings exactly as @30:35, not @30:40.

[@Astrobloke]

Hi Phil and glad you liked the video. I have since then rotated the OTA to the position you mention and it is a lot better.

[@boaty1968]

On my 200pds I fitted an aperture mask by Deepskydad that helps as a lot of reflections come from the bevelled edge of primary and primary clips , flocked the ota with self adhesive flocking from Wilkinson’s , fitted a Steeltrack focuser , fitted secondary dew heater, added a third Ota ring and fitting Ali bar to lock it all together, also something to check is is the focuser square to Ota mine was way off only realised as I was changing focuser to the Steeltrack , blacked secondary edge too , stars looking sweet now from initial test 👍 focuser protrusion is an issue on those focusers from skywatcher either saw 15mm off but be careful not too much , fitting the steeltrack was a better option though Glenn built like a tank though not without its fault which was easily remedied.

[@Astrobloke]

Hi Boaty. I will take a look at that as so far I have only seen one by Teleskop-express. I fancy making my own though with a 3d printer. I would like a new focuser but the Baader is for 8" and upward and I am not sure if it can be made to fit the 130pds. Sawing 15mm off is a good idea, atm I get as much of my imaging train in the focus tube as I can so I need to rack out to get focus. Can I ask what the fault was with the steeltrack

[@boaty1968]

@@Astrobloke The steeltack has a gap under the footplate used packaging foam to eliminate light leak but a poor show on baader, there is a Spanish site that sells a 3D printed spacer that addresses this I will dig it out and post link , you could 3D print an adapter to overcome the ota difference in dia to make fit , I got mine from the widescreen centre.

[@clairehunter7911]

Super video and great that you share such good ideas, thank you

[@Astrobloke]

Thank you so much 😊

[@AstroPixUK]

Brilliant to see the finished scope. I see what you mean about the paper we talked about at PAS. Rgds Jim.

[@Astrobloke]

Thanks Jim. Yes the high tech paper, a crucial component in any precision instrument. Will be interesting to see what difference if any it makes. How has your new scope performed? I almost got one. Maybe at IAS

[@stevenholt824]

Hi I love the fact you have a channel and produce fantastic pictures with what most would consider to be a cheap also ran telescope. But there's something about this scope that made it my favourite too, I have an old 130 skywatcher and wanted a 130pds but a TS optics 150 f4 popped up sh so I bought that , now it's currently my main scope , if I had hindsight or found your channel sooner I could have saved a lot of cash and wasted time . Keep up the good work . I wanna see all your work. Stevie Steve Castleford, Yorkshire .

[@Astrobloke]

Hi Steve and thank you for watching and taking the time to comment. I remember buying the Sky watcher early on and not expecting much from it. Out of the box it impressed me but then I realised with a few tweaks its actually an excellent scope for imaging with, I love it. So many people I know spend thousands on expensive refractors and I cannot see where that money has been spent as I get as good images with a £200 reflector. I am going to the IAS international astronomy show in a couple of weeks and hope to get another Newt to bridge the gap between my CT10 and 130pds. Clear skies

[@Luftbubblan]

Nice. Havnt seen anyone painting The mirror before. As for the back, on my 200p i had a metal cover that was also painted, on my 200pds i just use a black plastic bag+black textil bag covering it. Seems to do The trick.

[@Astrobloke]

Good tip thank you

[@oz6123]

Nice mods. Next time when I remove my primary mirror for a cleaning, I will also spray paint the inside of my Dob OTA with the chalkboard black

[@Astrobloke]

Thank you O Z. I almost did this but then I took the flocking route. That has made a huge difference and something I would highly recommend you consider. You have probably already seen it but just in case here is me flocking mine and the results kzbin.info/www/bejne/oai1n3d_nLN9ptU

[@kajouman]

if you make a small ring over the mirror holdels,you get also very nice stars. i also colimate with the fairpoint autocolimator,will give that extras too. on my quatttro 10 inch i have a new focusser,no tilt etc anymore. greetings

[@Astrobloke]

Thank you for your comments, really interesting. I am sorting a mask ring as we speak. going to 3d print one. I actually own a Howie Glatter laser and Tublug that I sometimes use but now days I always finish on a star (out of focus) planning to show this on another video. New focuser is really tempting as thats the scopes weak point to be fair. I really like the look of the Baader diamond steeltrac

[@kajouman]

@@Astrobloke i have the artesky focusser,they are made for replace the skywatcher focussers.

[@IcemanAstro]

Looking forward to the results from this Glenn. At any time during this, did you have ANY anxiety at all ? 😅. I think I would have had to buy another telescope if I did this

[@Astrobloke]

Isaac I was the coolest Iceman during the whole video. maybe just a teenie wobble as I first moved the black paint coated brush towards the mirror lol

[@JoesAstrophoto]

Cool video Glenn, it's always fun to take things apart and mod them. Looking forward to seeing the results!

[@Astrobloke]

You and me both! Still have quite a few plans and mods in the pipeline.

[@charlesburks3988]

Tinkering can have its benefits. I cut off part of focuser tube that was alittle long. Flocked EVERY possible. Not spider vain. Cut off primary mirror holders that over hung mirror that took some tinkering to make sure mirror would not fall but I only kept it above horizontal position after that. Made what I would consider a big difference on contrast. And a good collimation is a must. Clear skys happy hunting

[@Astrobloke]

Hi Charles and thank you for commenting. I love that you can tweak and tune these scopes and make them a lot better. The changes I made definitely improved contrast and love the scope more than ever. Clear skies to you too.

[@charlesburks3988]

@@Astrobloke any recommendations on were to find a eq platform that might be somewhat affordable. Can't seam to find anything affordable and don't really have tools to try a make one. Missouri USA 37 degrees ish

[@LogansAstro]

Great job and nicely demonstrated. Would scare the hell out of me taking my scope apart though 😳

[@Astrobloke]

He who dares wins.........or breaks his scope. its one of those, lol. It seems to have improved things quite a bit so I am really pleased I did it. Clear skies mate

[@allancopland1768]

Black Sharpie pens are excellent for blackening the edges of optical surfaces and probably less risky than using blackboard paint.

[@Astrobloke]

Thank you Allan. That sounds like a safer route and I do have a new scope that needs this treatment so will look at trying that method

[@stargateObservatory]

Very interessed

[@Astrobloke]

Thank you

[@actudoran]

Nice TLC for that little PDS :) I kinda miss mine :)

[@Astrobloke]

Thank you. I don't think I'll ever part with mine. Its like a love affair lol

[@actudoran]

@@Astrobloke i used the cash for a better camera that since died ... I now sport a TS 115/800 triplet APO and an old camera guided

[@zyban99]

Be good to try this with Black 3.0 paint. I have a roll of Japanese 99.7% non reflective material. Any ideas how you would flock the tube with it? I assume glue but seems like a tricky thing to do. Any ideas on application appreciated

[@Astrobloke]

I did think about flocking but having never done it I was not sure of the best way to proceed and then decided not to this time. Might look to do it over the summer months. Martin of MPASTRO flocks Newtonians and has videos on it. May have some pointers for you on there

[@zyban99]

@@Astrobloke I’ll check it out. Really looking forward to seeing if you get better results

[@MazzifLOL]

I painted my focus tube. The bearings flaked off the paint and got all gummed up, and left paint chips to fall into the ota. That didnt work out so well for me.

[@Astrobloke]

hopefully you were able to sort that out and now won't happen again. I have seen some even flock that focus tube but I can imagine that's really fiddly

[@WilliamBlakers]

How well does the blackboard paint stick to the glass over time? I'm worried about the warming and cooling cycles that telescopes go through.

[@Astrobloke]

Hi William. That is a very good point and not something I really considered. I have checked and no paint has flaked off at all and its been 10months so almost a year and definitely through a few temp changes and seasons, so it seems ok

[@WilliamBlakers]

@@Astrobloke oh good. I'm getting a second hand Meade SN10" OTA and I'm thinking of "improving it". Mind you I still need to get it a mount.🤣

[@syberand]

I'm running a 150pds (among other things) and I as you have a protruding drawtube into the main tube. I feel like it is cutting into the starshape, basically taking a bite out of them. Is this something you can also see?

[@actudoran]

Yep, I did with my 130

[@Astrobloke]

when imaging I adjust so the minimum is in the tube but this is something I have thought about cutting but since started to consider a focus upgrade. The Baader steeltrac.

[@syberand]

@@Astrobloke okay, so it is not just me but bad design og the focuser

[@thimitri1]

I've done this exact same upgrade but flocked everything, tube and mirrors.. when looking down the scope, you can't see anything, but the primary mirror.. it is so dark!!

[@Astrobloke]

That;s really useful to know. I really do think I will do this next. I am also 3d printing a mask to cover the mirror clips also so it will be dismantled again soon. clear skies

[@Astrospacegeek]

some good hand motion with the brush 🤣

[@Astrobloke]

Its all in the wrist 😉

[@4500Timer]

Hi Glen - I'm planning on making these same paint mods plus flocking my 150PDS (have bought everything just need the courage now!). Just a couple of queries - what materials did you use to clean the mirrors with, and what tools do you use for collimation? Cheers Danny

[@Astrobloke]

Hi Danny. You'll be fine doing it. It really is not difficult, just give yourself a nice bit of time and don't rush. The mirrors I clean with water and washing up liquid. Thoroughly rinse. Then final rinse with distilled water. I use a basic laser collimator and then check with an out of focus star. kzbin.info/www/bejne/gXXdp4eDZsulg5Y

[@4500Timer]

@@Astrobloke thanks Glen, that's helpful. I have a laser collimator so am good to go!

[@4500Timer]

@@Astrobloke Well I took the plunge today and flocked my 150PDS as well as painting mirror edges and focus tube. Wasn't as scary as I thought once I got started. Funny though there was no cardboard disc that the primary mirror to sit on, it just sat on the cork tabs. I suspect there may be light leaks at the primary end. I got a few air bubbles and slight creases on the flocking paper but managed to get them mostly out. Must have replayed your video a good few times during the day!

[@Astrobloke]

@@4500Timer Thats excellent mate and look forward to seeing what difference it makes for you. Don't worry about bubble and creases too much as they would have to be huge to impact on the mirrors and imaging. I wonder if its just the 130 that has that paper disc? Let me know how you get on with the changes, clear skies

[@4500Timer]

@@Astrobloke Hey Glen I managed to get some RGB data on the Cocoon nebula with new flocked and painted 150PDS. Am super pleased with the results - some of the best quality data scores I've had for RGB during stacking in APP and stars look small and nicely shaped. I'll post the image up on Cloud Magnets shortly. Many thanks!

[@Dennis-tf2cs]

I wish they'd just come from the manufacturer this way. I guess the money is in the details.

[@Astrobloke]

I think its all about cost Dennis as you say. Orion optics UK sell scopes of a high quality with many if not all these features but are about double the price.

[@mashpotatomountainobserver3338]

I can't find a 130 PDS for sale in America. Does anyone know a source?

[@boaty1968]

First light optics , uk worldwide delivery

[@Astrobloke]

They are quite hard to get hold of but Firstlightoptics in the UK sell and deliver worldwide.

[@mashpotatomountainobserver3338]

@@boaty1968 Aren't there big shipping costs? Almost as much as the telescope to deliver to the U.S.?

[@boaty1968]

@@mashpotatomountainobserver3338 🤷🏻‍♂️ not sure

[@boaty1968]

£230 delivered to USA

[@draganivanoviziie4647]

should have put some tape out of your hands upon the entrance of the eyepeace!!

[@Astrobloke]

Thanks

[@richardhurst1969]

Remember when you got that!

[@Astrobloke]

Been a great scope and still brings in great image. Absolute bargain. Altair have some nice F4 Newtonians now. saw them at the PAS last week. was very tempted

[@romanbykov5922]

actually, nothing horrible will happen if you touched the mirror with black paint, you're not going to be in trouble

[@Astrobloke]

I was most probably over worrying but it all turned out great so all good. Thanks for watching

[@romanbykov5922]

I see a red door and I want it painted black...

[@Astrobloke]

Now thats a tune

[@bullshitvendor]

if you ever need to recoat your mirrors, that paint might be a pita

[@williamhouse5081]

Recoating the mirrors would likely cost more than the telescope.

[@Astrobloke]

I did think of that but to be honest if the mirrors got that bad I would either buy some better mirrors and pimp it up more or get a new scope

[@jimwaters304]

Do NOT paint the edge of your primary mirror. This does nothing and will prevent the mirror from being recoated in the future. A mirror recoating company will reject the mirror because it can’t be chemically or ion beam cleaned. You will need to buy a new mirror when the coating degrades. If you are worried about the beveled glass edge use a mirror mask to cover the edge and mirror clips. Nothing is gained in painting the primary mirror edge... There's benefit in painting the secondary mirror edge. There's also benefit in adding a cover plate (plastic) to the rear of the mirror in the mirror cell.

[@Astrobloke]

Thanks for your comment Jim but unfortunately its a bit late as this was done over a year ago. Being a mirror from a scope costing just £179 I would replace the mirrors with new upgraded ones if they ever degraded to the point they needed re coating. I have had great results from the changes i made and I think were worth doing for me but thank you for sharing your knowledge as I was unaware this would prevent any professional cleaning or re coating

[@WilliamBlakers]

​@@Astrobloke just rewatched this video( i had seen it a while ago) as I aqcuired a 200P a few days ago and I'm thinking of basically doing the same things. Were the results very noticeable?

[@entropytango5348]

There is no point painting the back of your primary. All you are doing is inceasing time to thermal equilibrium and nothing optical. Otherwise very enjoyable. THX

[@Astrobloke]

Good point. I am glad i left it clear and just did the sides. Almost