I FIXED slapchop. Here's how!

[@wonderdog8895]

To save others having to sit through the 8 minutes of waffle necessary to pad the video for monetisation purposes, the fix is ""Use a grey primer instead of black when doing slapchop"."

[@sikfahq]

Heroes are everywhere these days lol. The choice of yellow as a example to use in a video set off a alarm for me. Ive been using German Panzer Grey primer from Vallejo. A warm grey drybrush, the brightest white I have for drybrushing key highlights and leading edges. I'm happy with results using this method.

[@mattnottm8363]

Anything from the last two years including a variant of "I fix Slapchop" in the title, is gonna be clickbait. The clickbait is further intesified when the self proclaimed hero of Slapchop is also just a very average painter

[@Jatc93]

Wish I'd saw your comment earlier. Honestly i thought the secret was going to be using a darker version of your primary colour but nah use grey like yeah mate already completed it

[@mattnottm8363]

​@Jatc93 too much effort was put in to constantly/ needlessly switching cameras rather than just getting to the point

[@higheyrie6176]

I double tap to fast forward every time i see her face.

[@UnkleKlumsy1353]

Another idea for dealing with the issue caused by black primer was from a video Artis Opus made a while back where he showed the merits of using a relevant colour instead of black as the basecoat. He did a slapchop style bloodthirster this way with a deep red basecoat, and it came out wonderful

[@damianchenot2667]

What is the lesson? Prime gray, drybrush white, then use contrast/speedpaint? It seems like that part of the video took no time compared to the time it took to talk about why standard slapchop is bad.

[@snaigel]

But the explanation in why priming black and then drybrush white is bad was necessary. We need to know WHY we do something, not just do it and that's it

[@the_badger_brush]

That’s it! That’s why my zenithal aren’t working, I’ve just been using black and white. Thank you, this is one of those Eureka moments my painting needed

[@davidmartinez5233]

Try Splash Dash by No 6 Minis: prime white (or grey), add a wash, possibly reapply white (or grey) for brighter highlights, then use contrast paints.

[@kaneblaireau4864]

This is what I’ve been meaning to try! Prime white, wash thin black (so it’s more gray) drybrysh white.

[@theboredlich215]

Lol didn't realised anyone named it yet. What i did was i primed my models gray, a dark purple wash, drybrush white and then a skin tone contrast. It was beautiful .

[@jesusaurusfunk]

I have had similar results, priming grey, washing black, then drybrushing white. It is a very clean result

[@King_of_Sofa]

I like the general idea of slap chop. But for convenience I just go a zenithal prime of dark grey from underneath, mid/light grey from overhead, and a quick light drybrush of white to catch raised areas. Then tint color in multiple layers in a control way. Then an oil wash/wipe away to get contrast and blend everything together a bit. Then do targeted highlights and details. This way gives a pretty nice and realistic look in about 4 hours per mini

[@cyborgbadger1015]

this is the exact same approach I use. i think it is by far the most effiecient way to get decent minis on the table.

[@joseale2310]

In addition, it is probably nice to mention that if the undercoat is not grey, but a complementary color to the color you are slapping, you will get much richer results. For example, Juan Hidalgo showed that using purple/pink underneath, drybrushing grey and then white on top, finally the yellow contrast, it will turn out to be an excellent warm yellow.

[@maxxammax0]

Ive been using the grissaile/slapchop/underpainting method just to map out where some of the brighter highlights would fall. Also instead of black I use dark purples/greens/blues as a base. That helped me a lot as a beginner painter.

[@trevorharvey6928]

I found the same, although i prefer a light brown prime and white drybrush. Ideally using a cool or warm midtone depending what result you want.

[@jerrycoveau8131]

thank you for the visuals. it makes perfect sense to me

[@RogerS1978]

Do an opposite color (dark red for green etc) light grey airbrush zenithal, white highlight. Also offsetting towards the base colour (like red orange, for a mars base) and ivory white for the zenithal. Simulating reflective light from the ground, neutral base then warm sunlight in this case. Add first ink layer, do light white drybrush, then add second ink layer. Can do it with stippling not just airbrush. I then do the details and panel line in black or an appropriate colour. These were orks so vdark brown/red on the skin and paynes grey for the clothes.

[@lunahula]

Something I did a few years ago to practice brush control and technique was; use dark inks on a primed miniature to black line recesses and then switch to a white ink to practice edge highlighting. This creates an underpaint that even if it is a bit off, you can easily tidy up and will go well under a slightly transparent base coat layer. So not just dry-brush for slap chop, you can use this method to practice as well. If you get something so wrong it can't be fixed? No problem, you can just basecoat over it later anyway. Why I mention it here is that you could selectively go back with a fine brush and apply inks into recesses on your slap chop model, where you think it does need to be darker, where the contrast paint isn't quite doing it for you and because they are inks you can easily have a damp brush on standby to feather out or remove any mistakes you make.

[@Chewie260]

Yes that works, but the whole point of slap chop is that its quick and easy, having to manually create recesses kinda fails on that first one. Hell if we doing that, might aswell just prime, gray, do a nuln oil wash then a white dry brush. Would be probs a similar result.

[@Judasz696]

You have a good ear for painting! Cheers!

[@ajtame]

Hot take - your basecoat shouldn't be black, it should be a dark version of the colour you want to end up with.

[@EewZEE]

i think the main prblem is people leave black on the model or there model is way too dark before applying contrast, the model should be black in the deepest recesses and mainly grey and white. the model being brighter allows you to thin the contrast to make it smoother, and to apply multiple layers to increase saturation

[@OniGanon]

I think the biggest problem with slapchop is the greyscale underpainting, especially using black as the base. I suspect dark coloured primer and desaturated colour drybrush might work better; blue for most circumstances, other colours for simulating particular environments.

[@eldiablopotato]

What a great observation! Thank you for sharing this, looking forward to giving slap chop another try.

[@forouza1]

I do a slight variant of this. I start with black prime and then I do a zenithal prime at a slightly shallow angle (30 degrees instead of 45 or 60 degrees) with white followed by dry brush white (titanium white). The “generous” white on black prime establishes my gray mid tones but with more nuance as it still keeps some of the recessed areas a touch darker. The white dry brush the really allows the raised areas to pop.

[@StudioOwlbear]

Yeah my most successful Slapchop minis were achieved via a black wash over a grey miniature, before the final drybrushing, not pure grey drybrushing over black. Good tip!.

[@pattyjohnston6781]

Your results speak for themselves. Great job and i may try that method. Thanks!

[@AngusMcIntyre]

The volumes we can create with an airbrush cannot be ignored. Once you figure out how to use a white ink you'll be banging out the smoothest transitions. With the airbrush, we also have the option to go back in and reinforce the shadow hue. This can fix/mask any weird interactions we might get with our 'primer' colour.

[@michaelsudsysutherland5353]

I got some good results, depending upon the color of the final model, using a burnt umber (dark brown camo spray paint) primer, with dry brushed raw sienna as a mid tone, and ivory for highlights for dry brushing. For larger scale, topping it off the highlights with white paint makes things pop. Again, it depends on the final coloration, this worked great on the yellows for some Eldar...er...Eldari...er.. Space Elves.

[@ShipWreck68]

You are on to something here but there is yet another thing I learned partly from Ninjon and partly from Mario. Both under coated with a black primer then another layer of a dark shadow color. Then select a high zenthal color. Now you can either use contrast, oils or glazes on to block back in the final color you want and you have all that hard work done for you.

[@dmcharlie1083]

Love how she blames the fact she was lazy with her grey/white dry brushing for bad results. Honest Wargamer & Ninjon’s video it is obvious you have to be heavy handed with your grey. 🤦🏼‍♂️

[@TashiMortier]

Oh this is a neat video. I figured what you said out kinda intuitively, but I fixed it by just spending way way way .... way much more time on the grey drybrush stage until only the recesses were black. Then I applied a white drybrush but only going from top to bottom with the brush strokes to only catch upper edges where possible. I also didn't use sub assemblies so a lot of the drybrushing was with a tiny brush to get into all the nooks and crannies haha. I was already thinking that it might be faster to go with a lighter primer and just apply a wash first or such but I never made much progress in improving it. :D Your solution might just be the "goldilocks" way haha :D

[@Daedricbob]

I airbrush a zenithal from a coloured basecoat rather than black/grey - I'd use a deep pink or magenta base for yellow. I then just slapchop white on the very edges and ink/contrast.

[@deltapi8859]

Funny just a month ago I realized the same think you point at. Tried to be fast with mini furniture painting and realized that black is not necessary and went for gray spray primer and then white zenithal highlight und then contrast. But I think Goobertown Hobbies also stated that the mini should be lighter. You are the only one though to actually question the black undercoat. I agree with you, gray should be enough, especially because only the purest white will leave enough light for the transparent to keep it's saturation. So slap chop is rather seen to be a techniques for mid tone + shadows and not how many claim "shadows + highlight" and even for that you most of the time need at least a gray.

[@rybastudio.artwork]

Add oil paints and there it is, a depth and a contrast to push up every detail.

[@queegUK]

It is just that black base can be rubbish for somethings, try some other colours other than grey and white though, can get some nice cool or warm resulkt by using a blue or off white like wraithbone in your 1st or second colours, can give some niiiice results.

[@wolf-xf6hf]

The solution isnt actually just prime grey its prime in a different but not too dark color. Painting blood angels? Prime red, orange, or purple then use a gray slap chop to desaturate the mini then dry brush with a pastel like a pastel orange, yellow, or violet. My personal paint scheme for painting sons of horus is to overbrush basecoat in a turquoise like vallejo blue green , dry brush grey, and ultimate highlight with ice yellow making the shadows more blue and the highlights more green.

[@lordnovas]

Wow. The mini looks better, and it requires less steps. Thanks a lot.

[@Giby86]

Just don't use black as your primer. But dont' use grey either: use color. Deep red or brown for warm colors, purple for blue, dark green for lighter green...and then go ahead and do grey AND white drybrushing (yes, do both: it IS noticeable, you just have to control the application).

[@cyborgbadger1015]

I'm going to use grey undercoat for cold/dark colours and brown/cream for warm/lighter colours.

[@benjamin2629]

Rhe upgrade to this is always basing with a colour, i test each scheme first with various colours. Colour basecoat, white/off white zenithal or drybrush and speed paints, army ready super fast.

[@vandals4873]

This was interesting! I will test myself over Grey Seer because I do see the same problem you showed on top of black primer.

[@DeadCloud03]

Awesome Video!!! I'm gonna try using a darker grey then the white and see if that makes a difference. I too have been just doing white when slapping but I will test it out with a darker grey on a model soon

[@Space_Ranger]

Great video. But I would add that you can have great results by using a more appropriate base color instead of black. Like for the yellow a brown would work well. It also works well for reds and oranges. For blues you use a dark blue or purple. Then on top of all that I would say is using an airbrush instead of a brush. It doesn't need to be done with a high grade one either. A cheap airbrush even with a cordless compressor can do well enough for these parts.

[@w.i.t.c.h.q.u.e.e.n]

"The mistake that makes your minis looks like graffiti art after a caffeine overdose" Me: *looks at my coffee mug... looks at the graffiti cans I use as primer* That's literally how I paint 😮😢 Btw, instead of black and gray I use a dark and a light color, usually graffiti spray paint. Dark purple and light yellow work fine. Then proceed as usual with a white drybrushing. This way you get all of the benefits minus the desaturation & the problem of pure black. If I really want those dark shadows I might do a black wash before drybrushing.

[@FredRothV]

Love this approach. Question: could doing a dark/shadow wash over the top of the new approach work well to re-emphasize some of the dark areas?

[@emptykeksdose]

yes, it would but also darken down your miniature. Id suggest to use a wash on selected areas instead of the whole mini

[@davestevenson3206]

i find a dark grey automotive plastics primer works well, as a base when building up the grey scale from dark to light prior to your speedpaint application

[@jazzydominion1411]

Another idea i would like to say is to use a different base color than black, kinda like how to paint yellow easier, is to prime the thing in magenta, then drybrush white then yellow contrast. However, i will do more research which base color is better for which color

[@oliverkent7225]

Maybe work out which colour you need to mix to your contrast paint to get the exact shadow color / shade you want, and use that for the initial zenthial darker prime? Eg purple to turn a yellow to brown.

[@Gumlass1]

I've been using coloured undercoats. E.g. deep blue for tomb kings looks amazing

[@mgentile7]

i have been using gray primer with white dry brush with much better results. However sometimes depending on the mini I may prime in black then a heavy gray & white dry brush. Again, depends on the mini.

[@elgrifolorian]

I do multiple layers or grey and white dry brushing, and then i layer paint over the speedpaint.

[@Sarados1980]

I have to admit I never understood why people work from black with slap chop. As she said "no transparent paint will cover black, black always will be black" and if you look into the real world, you will see that colored materials never become black... So I normally start with a 50% grey, apply a light grey drybrush, then a white drybrush. If it's a hero model I even go in with pure white and paint specific parts even more white (areas I want to have bright colors like lights, gems etc.). Then I take a dark grey (anthrazid/german grey) and paint all the metallic parts with it. After that I apply the contrast/speed paints on the white areas, the metallic paints on the black and done. :)

[@spuriusligustinus4509]

The problem with "slapchop " originally known as grisaille is that it's an actual artistic painting technique where the positioning of light and shadows matters. It has been marketed as noob friendly when it's really not since the problem with a lot of mini painters is that they don't work cleanly/thoroughly as in there are mold lines remaining, the base coats are not even, dry brush method is not good,... Byron on Artis Opus keeps talking about the learning curve, easy to use but hard to master. I prefer seeing a simple but clean mini painted with only basecoats because then you can work your way up and add shadows and edge highlights because if you make a mistake you can correct it with the basecoat whereas with slapchop it'll be way harder to correct.

[@luketfer]

The other thing is it's used by people who think painting *is a complete chore*, it gets models 'good enough' to be on the tabletop which is something even this person mentions at the start of the video. Like the kind of people who are going to use it most are the kind of people who a literally batch painting their way through an army or who see the painting as a 'means to an end'...aka people like me. I'm not going to edge highlight a batch of 20 Ork boyz or 20 Imperial Guard or even a full squad of 10 marines, bugger that, does it look decent enough to avoid getting the '-10 points for an unpainted army' penalty? Yes, fuck it, we ballin'. Honestly I'm only painting these to get them to a tabletop standard which is minimum 3 colors and they look good from like 2-3 *feet* away. I think this is something a lot of people who exclusively paint but don't play forget. You're not going to be looking at these models in a close up instagram picture, these are going to be seen from a tabletops worth of distance, at which point all those fine details that you spend hours on, are largely going to be a blur. The only time you'd want to focus a little more is if you're doing a big centerpiece model. Now don't get me wrong, everyone can engage in the hobby however they feel and there's such a wide diversity within the hobby itself from painting for competitions, dioramas, kitbashing, list building, competitive play etc.

[@TheGamerZapocalypse]

...I have not used any of these, but I wonder if mixing in a small amount of whatever color contrast paint is being used for the main coat into the grey primer coat would help at all? Instead of a grey surface, it would be tinted with the contrast paint color slightly...then apply the contrast main coat as usual

[@PatrickSamphire]

Yep. This is exactly why I don't use that drybrush-on-black and then contrast paints method. It never looks good.

[@edwardnigma7332]

Always love your vids!

[@oogiesmuncher]

very new to mini painting but after a few slapchop models I immediately was coming to the same conclusions as you did! The black makes things too dark and can give an almost "comic book" art look

[@kristoff7049]

Isn’t the point about slapchop to be a super quick method for people who don’t want to invest time in painting…

[@cyborgbadger1015]

Exactly that. Also contrast paints were meant to go onto a white base coat. In my opinion you get th best results in a short time (otherwise what's the point?) if youstart with a white base coat with a wash on top, highlight back to pure white, then apply speedpaints, job done.

[@bartekwwa]

Love the longer over 10 min videos!

[@theboredlich215]

Long live the long

[@gh0stkat440]

Hi I am a fookin’ noob . Just started 40K. Finished collecting and building and primed 1st army .(Black Templars) 2nd army (Chaos Black Legion//Word Bearers…don’t know yet have not decided//reading two lore books and will decide much later)under the bed in a box . I just subscribed to ur channel . U have an awesome sense of humor which makes ur tutoring fun!thank you for not being boring cat approved (ur last vid)😺 I will be watching more of ur vids to get a better sense of how to finally get my miniatures on the table to WAR. There are so many techniques and products and accessories and lore that I am completely f&@#ing overwhelmed,lmfao. What would be ur opinion (to get my army lookin badass)on which technique I should use ? I have primed them all in Black Chaos ssssooooooooooooooooo…….what do u think I should do next???? I am supposed to be having fun but the details on the Black Templars is fookin’ punishing . Thanks 4 ur help! Prep!Prep!Prep! Clean that shit up! Thanks for the vids! 🖖🏻Live Long and Prosper.

[@CPyJIb]

4:48 comparison shows exact differences in gradient as well as edge highlight difference. I don't know, it probably depends on the color applied to model in a later steps. I bet Greens, Blues and Reds will have visible difference, but something to think and test for me personally.

[@luketfer]

Yeah also IIRC you're mean to try the white drybrushing as a highlight step aka focusing it *towards the top of the model*, you're not meant to slather it all over and cover up the greys.

[@KitchenTableMaths]

What tool were you using to clean up your mold lines here? Edit: I was talking about the tool at 1:39 but have just realised that you might just be using it to point at parts of the mini. I'll go away now...

[@Thoadin]

i like orange, or fluo magenta as shadow on yellow, i would prime a dark orange or magenta fluo then drybrush the colour i really want

[@vargaresa]

I use Vallejo Panzer Grey as Primer for Slapchopping, as I found out by accident that it matches the darkest shadow below my desk. lol

[@luketfer]

Also, that's a bit fucky cheeky, you do a comparrison model to one you literally JUST slapped one color over to one you've painted all the details on to make this 'revolutionary method' look a lot fucking better than it is...if you're doing to do a side by side, do both the same.

[@Rogelio_007]

I tried the Vince Offer slap chop method, but it damaged too many minis 😢

[@SRTejon-pk9dn]

Yo no uso el negro, ni siquiera el gris. suelo usar marrones claros y me va muy bien. prueva un rakart flesh o un xv88 como imprimacion antes del pincel seco de blanco. depende de que contrast vayas a poner encima mayoritariamente.

[@morjch.7668]

Why even use black or gray as main color? You can have cold shadows with blue primer or warm with pink primer then drybrush pure white, miniature will have more color interest and temperature variety.

[@mech0p]

Im curious. What made you go with the one gauged ear?

[@blainescouller7165]

Are we going to totally ignore the fact that the reason those two death guard models don't looked the same is because they are in fact, not the same model..? Look at the heads. The first one is a plague marine head, the second is the standard head fornthe lord of contagion.

[@saveversus]

I had this exact issue with yellow; it looked like I colored newspaper.

[@erho2967]

Eldar with those g strings not helping the struggle with Slannesh

[@anhyates]

I've started to use the complementary colour to whatever my main colour is, you get a much more saturated shadow. I was inspired by Roman Lappat - kzbin.info/www/bejne/kKDSc5iCiNGdebMsi=bxlv3Mg90qBxhrly

[@goforitpainting]

Cool 🎨🖌

[@Walican132]

Try slap chop over non neutral color. Had luck with red for example.

[@SnyperMac1]

In all honesty for yellow i would base in pink then drybrush white over.

[@bennconner1195]

So don’t work up from black. Work up from a brown, purple or dark grey.

[@rina-ehre]

I was always trying to work starting with grey primer. Black always seemed wrong.

[@steffniko4055]

My favourite painter 💚💚💚

[@sikfahq]

Mold lines are to minis what white head pimples on the face are to people

[@JadeHarleyCoffeeMug]

especially for me going way too hard trying to remove them damaging my skin i mean the mini

[@赵梓胧]

I mean, okay the idea does make some sense, but in a 10min video I waited 8min to get into the point on "how do I fix my slapchop". Maybe people like the way of watching another pro diss some other ones? I don't know.

[@ataraxiapainting]

that's because making videos is fkuuing hard bro :(

[@oficialsmith7534]

i like u video!

[@the250mikec]

Cool👍

[@danielpitman5140]

Well someone obviously sleeps on their left side.

[@gaborboth3602]

Every time I see people do the traditional slapchop, I wanted to scream at them. The black undercoat thing looks so bad. Also, the contrast can pool up in recesses like washes do, and while on a light basecoat that'd make dark recesses, on a dark basecoat, it can make lighter recesses. It's horrid.

[@Botjer1]

Skip to 8:09 for solution

[@ataraxiapainting]

Yea guess I did that wrong boy making videos is so hard when you are a dumbie dumb :(

[@Botjer1]

@@ataraxiapainting on another note... its a nice solution. thank you. Im still waiting for someone to colored slap chop like going from brown to wraithbone, or using pink to give yellow contrast paints a nice shadow

[@Dresden76]

The finished product at the end of the video is equally "meh" as the original. It's washed out and missing contrast, though it could be that yellow is just the wrong color to use as the example. Undercoat in a relevant color and then drybrush to prep for slapchop.

[@SirKnasher]

Me who just primed my minis black before watching this while they dry... shit...

[@MultiVaevictis]

Merci pour la vidéo

[@jorgeamadosoriaramirez8953]

"cut the mold lines, fill the gaps, prime gray instead of black so your contrast paints look good and not desaturated. Do that and Slapchop can work for you". See how I did that with one sentence and cero cringe facial expressions, condescence and jarring camera changes? jfc.

[@ataraxiapainting]

heyeheheyhey what are you saying brother, here it's all about the cringe, no cringio no party Cringe people need to make other people cringe it's our BIRTHRIGHT DAMMITTT

[@electrictrojan6719]

good

[@loric.23]

Grisaille is definitely not pronounced greyscale 😅

[@ataraxiapainting]

Well good thing im not french ehehehehehehehehe

[@aceofmaine]

I don't know if you have the time but I would like to see a video where you paint a model from start to finish with very little or no editing Preferably not slap shot😁 please

[@sf356]

8 minutes to get to the solution. Exhausting.

[@Firedrake-f4g]

By the way. You as much as many other content creators never seemed to get the message from GW about the purpose of Contrast and its translucent properties. It was developed with the GW gamer in mind who is so uninterested in painting they will show up at a tournament with a tide of grey. The Contrast was designed to allow these guys to go three colours in without hours of shading or glazing. It doesn't stop the talented ones such as yourself from experimenting and developing, but you were not the first target of this paint range. And see how other companies realised the potential for that market.

[@Firedrake-f4g]

I rather think you are full of it. In order to get your "terrible" finish on the traditional Slap Chop method, you are using a watered down version of the yellow. It is patently obvious that the figure you paint with your version of slap chop has the full strength version of the contrast paint applied. Further, my eye may deceive me, but it looks to me like there is a glaze of orange on your "improved" paint job which obviously adds to the finish. In the bad figure you have not even covered the whole model in the yellow leaving that grey peaking out at the knee joints, the back of the helmet and so on. You have taken a fairly arrogant attitude over other content creators with regards to this method which was not broken to be fixed by you. You do you and I am sure others will do their thing, but it is pretty low brow to intimate the Honest War Gamer is being deceitful.

[@ataraxiapainting]

Nope I did not use a different dilution for the yellow and I haven’t added any orange of made any changes to improve the other one. The point wasn’t saying that the method isn’t valid but that imho this way you shorten the steps and get better results, so it’s a win win for people who want to get model painted fast. I really don’t see why you should be mad about this.:. Again I think people in the comments also have some imput to improve more the technique by not using a grey bc but a properly choosen color to do the db on. I look forward to test that. And bro chill, i don’t think im better than nobody just because i use KZbin friendly titles. I merely try to give my input to this community!

[@Firedrake-f4g]

@@ataraxiapainting Again I disagree with your original premise. Just freeze that picture comparison of the two yellow figures. On the one on the right side, the paint job is complete, along with the weapon, the stones and the face plate, none of which are coloured in on the model on the left. Secondly the coat on the right hand model clearly has orange tint on the crest of the helmet, the right sided leading breast plate, the right thigh and the wrist guard on the left hand. So if you have not glazed it your photography skewed it. By comparison, the coat on the left model is very very thin, and as I noted significant parts of the model were not coloured at all. Further no other part of the model was painted in, such as the face plate, weapon and so on. I still regard the paint job as one manufactured to support your argument. Further the comparison between the two is a match between apples and oranges as they say, because you completed the better one and didn't even complete a single coat over the other. I guess the rest of it comes down to artistic taste and preference. But that is not a reason for claiming superiority, just a reason for presenting options. P.S. The time stamp for that picture comparison was 8:56.

[@Firedrake-f4g]

@@ataraxiapainting As an added fillip, I know my limitations and paint my armies for gaming. I think they look OK on the board but would be happy to send a picture or two just for you to return fire if you wish. I just don't belong to Instagram and I have been locked out of my Facebook page for years. I have two examples, an Eldar army in metallics and a Death Guard army in contrast. I was experimenting with contrast when it was released and I think you can see the change as I go from Pox Walkers to the Bloat Drones. I don't use slap chop but to do use under shading, funnily enough with dark grey. Anyway next time maybe.

[@AKILLERNCAMO]

As someone who has large gauged ears, for the love of all that is holy, gauge your other ear, it looks stupid, like why? Why go through the pain and bullshit if you're only doing one? I couldn't even watch the video bc of it.

[@ataraxiapainting]

Bruhh I have a mole on the other one just watch the fckin video 🤭

[@macewen1]

Your gray is too close in value to your white. You need to start with a darker gray if you want a better transition. Also those artist opus brushes are too stiff, no clue why people are so into them.

[@chrisconnelly-d6t]

Another quality Squidmar thumbnail.

[@ataraxiapainting]

Yes!!! S tier baby

[@Brainfracture]

Great advice but this video was way longer then it should have been. I get that you want to crack the 10 minute mark but please respect the time of your viewers and don't try to stretch a video with foreshadowing and unnecessary teasing.

[@crap641]

10 minute video to say use a grey primer instead of black?

[@zazen69]

She did explain why and give examples to be fair. You could also just skip to the end.

[@JamesEarlCash]

Another slapchop/post-slapchop/Improving-slapchop technique clickbait video. C'mon guys - there is a million better things to make videos about. I think I've unsubscribed from at least 10 painting channels in the last few months because everyone tries to go with a mainstream overdiscussed topic instead of doing something fun and new. At least you haven't spammed the shit out of this with dozens of videos so it's all good, but hopefully you won't go further inside the "slapchop" rabbit hole, lol.

[@cyborgbadger1015]

In my opinion you get best results using speedpaints overa white basecoats as the makers intended. At least then the saturation is correct.

[@drunkplaylists1829]

Why do people insist on using this ridiculous word. Have some dignity.

[@ataraxiapainting]

Digniti??? What is that weird word you are using, never heard of it

[@drunkplaylists1829]

Oh dear.@@ataraxiapainting

[@drunkplaylists1829]

@@ataraxiapainting that figures. Peace be with you

[@Kruziik]

This video is bad lol

[@ataraxiapainting]

Fine. I’ll go tell my mum you said that.

[@Kruziik]

@@ataraxiapainting Whoa you relied, in all seriousness its just unnecessary quirky commentary filler to hit the 8 min mark. I understand you got to make $ somehow but at least say the main points in the beginning and spend the rest of the video going more in depth on it. the extra banter makes you want to click off in search of another, more to the point, video. and props for thick skin haha

[@CharlesPerrin-xr3cb]

Useless video...

[@ataraxiapainting]

useless like me ye :(

[@chimpy666]

but great video