Why Isn't Everyone Painting like THIS?

[@trovarion]

Go to www.squarespace.com/trovarion to get a free trial and 10% off your first purchase of a website or domain!

[@DeadEightVids]

@trovarion Great vid! If you do want to try masking tape again, I recommend Tamiya Masking Tape, it’s very flat and designed to have a straight edge. Normal masking tape isn’t that flat so you don’t get a sharp edge.

[@trovarion]

@@DeadEightVids i have tamiya 😅

[@DeadEightVids]

@@trovarion Oh haha, you’re probably just too good with a brush then for it to be worth it.

[@trovarion]

@@DeadEightVids probably still user error...will try it again!

[@benjaminmoser6890]

Oils! I thought the day would never come you Legend 😄❤️

[@ianunderwood1678]

I think people like to know how long something takes because watching a 15 min video creates the illusion that the process of painting a mini is a lot faster than it is. Hearing that it took X hours is very reassuring, when you're there in your 3rd hour of painting wondering why you're so slow.

[@nacidocoqui]

So, yes, Trovarion's skill is undeniable, and these techniques are absolutely great, but how much can we _really_ trust someone whose first action on Terminator Armour is to *REMOVE THE CRUX TERMINATUS* ?! 😱😱😱

[@wasdwazd]

I like it. *Minimalist Dreadnought armor.*

[@pepi560]

​@@wasdwazdi will never admit that i like the minimalist dreadnaught armor

[@CS-zn6pp]

That's the invulnerable save gone before they even hit the table....

[@jabbathehutt1321]

THE EMPEROR PROTECTS no longer :(

[@realsnice]

30k > 40k

[@seanmcgrath2049]

As someone who suffers from severe ADHD, having the breakdowns of time for each process is INCREDIBLY helpful in determining where I should best spend my time while painting. Calculating the "time spent on a step vs. results achieved" takes up so much time and I get lost in the minutiae to the point where painting is no longer fun, and that feeling is terrible. Thank you for having a more technical, process-oriented video! Techniques and method are important for the hobby but a lot of youtubers gloss over the "nitty-gritty" details of the painting process, even though it has such a huge impact on the process (admittedly this is more the fault of youtube for forcing you all to chase algorithm trends). Thank you again for devoting the time to it, it's incredibly helpful for a lot of people to have an example of how the whole process is broken down!

[@Moonlighter_TV]

My adhd don't give a damn about balancing speed vs quality, the only thing my adhd cares about is making sure I put in a ton of time and love and effort in to painting my model to about 70% complete and then making the executive decision that I can never touch it again.

[@Nicker-Knocker-Gory]

Love the rich effect the pre-shade gave the yellow. I highly suggest that if you use masking tape again, rub the edge of the tape with a silicone shaper or try Frogtape Yellow (Delicate Surface), that works like a charm.

[@DeadEightVids]

Everyone is struggling with a backlog so is thinking about speed. The thing that helped me though was focussing on making it fun, which made me want to paint more. This technique here isn’t just fast, a high % of the time is spent on satisfying high impact steps.

[@trovarion]

True!

[@Draxon_blades]

Mate I learn something new with every video I watch of yours. Please keep posting quality content like this. 🔥

[@Garakh]

This is such a great format and personal score breakdown at the end! Really helpful how you go through your experience, good and bad. Especially In respect that you don't seem scared to have a negative take on something. Painting KZbinrs often end up playing both fields and going with the milk toast opinions. Keep it up, buddy! This feels personal and interesting, through your eyes!

[@nofixedcourse]

I adore painting with oils, but that stems from starting on tanks first then moving to smaller and smaller miniatures. With the streaking, if you dot on the streak colours and give it a quick spray of thinners through the airbrush. it'll run naturally although you may have to help it along with a small brush in some areas. Great video as always

[@kookieslayer]

Your videos are always interesting, but this one is particularly valuable, IMO. I can't wait for the next one in that new series!

[@saltedllama2759]

I LOVE these sorts of videos that show how to take just a little extra care to get smashing looking minis that don't require an exorbitant amount of difficult work. It's an enjoyable process and people need to sometimes focus on just that: the enjoyment of the process.

[@stellarscalemodels5690]

I have found that make up cotton swaps are much better suited for dealing with oil paints, they come in various shapes and sizes and are ideal for manipulating the oil on the model.

[@Hudston]

I use cheap makeup sponge wedges. They're so soft and work so well that it almost feels like you're painting in reverse.

[@subodai85]

Yeah make up sponge wedges are denser and don’t leave lint.

[@bionicgeekgrrl]

​@subodai85 the last thing you want is lint in your eyes. Imo paying extra for the silicone makeup sponges is worth it if you look after them, how well they're going to stand up to oils and oil cleaner I'm not sure.

[@JustFollowingOrdersYT]

Magenta also works as a wonderful preshade to a blue or teal basecoat. Gives a wonderful purple tone in the shadows that gives such great variance to schemes.

[@andreasnelles964]

Exactly the comment i was looking for!

[@BotRetro]

You don't understand why everyone isn't painting with the airbrush? I can tell you - i tried using it, but it either requires a separate room or good ventilation set up. Both require a lot of space and time. Hope that helps.

[@CODY2POSH]

I airbrush my miniatures in the kitchen while my wife is cooking, just set up a box w only 2 of the walls up, use that to paint into; no issue.

[@jaredfrazier6962]

Everything he does here can actually be achieved with dry brushing. You don’t need an airbrush to dry brush the pre highlights. Contrast paints can also be applied with a normal brush.

[@YanniCooper]

I've grown really fond of doing a two color zenithal prime and then painting over it using translucent paints. Just started a Gitz army, and I painted the squigs with an almost identical start (except I went a bit heavier w/ the magenta, and kept the yellow zenithal fairly tightly vertical). Depending on what colors I use I can end up with Red, Yellow or Green squigs really easily, and the gitz riding the squigs just need a couple thin blue coats to become a nice goblin green. Also painting translucent paints over gradients is a ton of fun especially with something organic that doesn't need to hew to a single color.

[@akutch564]

Great looking mini, I think where this method shines is in batch painting. I’m a big fan of using oil washes and oil dot filtering. I love that you included a fun factor. That is something often overlooked in army painting or speed painting videos.

[@ao-b2774]

I like the 'it doesn't matter how long it takes because painting is fun' approach. Each model I approach with a 'I want to do "this" thing', sometimes that means it'll take ages, sometimes its quick, but it's nice to just sit down and paint whilst listening to youtube videos. That said, I'm lining up a 'one box - one weekend' challenge for myself, where I might decide I wish I knew every trick in the trade to actually get it finished. 😀

[@ErebosGR]

Always, the "I want to do this" mindset is much more healthy and motivating than the "I have to do this".

[@rien5996]

I used about the same steps for my space marines too, but I found out that doing the oil wash before chipping is better. After the oil wash as you said it is a bit messy, so making corrections with the original tone or even adding highlights can really improve the look of the mini. And after that I add chipping. But that means you have to be a bit more careful with the sponge as the metal parts and base coats are alread done.

[@eternalnomad1607]

Really nice guide on paiting fists. I especially loved the dual color power fist looked amazing. Yellow/ white will always be tedius and I 100% agree that all the satisfaction of painting Imperial fists comes when you see the completed mode.

[@subodai85]

Easy way to get a clean edge with tape, is spray the colour under the tape first, so the gaps fill with the colour that’s already there, then the colour on top is sharper. You can use a flat clear instead of colour if it’s a complex thing underneath but has the same effect. You basically prefil the gaps with something that doesn’t matter then apply the colour you actually want on top :)

[@jeffhiatt3793]

Really enjoyed this video! The magenta preshading technique is something I never would have thought to try, but it looks amazing-I can't wait to give it a go. I'm also excited to experiment with applying contrast paint using an airbrush; the results seem really smooth and vibrant. The discussion on oil washes was super insightful too-definitely going to incorporate that into my workflow. Thanks for sharing these methods!

[@gavinm894]

Brilliant results, really love that yellow and the finish. On the cotton bud front, I find makeup sponges great for the removal of oil washes. It's faster and doesn't leave strands and stuff on the model. Great video, looking forward to the next one.

[@DarkLolification]

I love that you go in depth of all steps. Sure oils and streaking grimes gives a nice result but what I enjoy is just painting acrylic with my brush. that's why I only do it for vehicles.

[@spartanvi]

2 hour speed painted terminator making my 8 hour terminators look like toddler finger painting. Bravo!

[@rip.tear.]

I love the final finished model, looks so gritty and cool! Your work is awesome as always!

[@Mordraqq]

I paint in oils only ,Oils are King ! My Miniature is my wetpallet ,I love everything in oil painting , Im so glad I found Vince channel and after that I got in touch with the art of James Wappel .

[@nickwilson2097]

I personally love this style of painting method. I first started using something similar after discovering Marco Frisoni's kill team speed paint videos a couple years ago. It's really great for batch painting squads to a good standard, especially also using contrast style paints for some of the smaller areas. If you skip the detailed weathering the core of the technique is very fast. Painted a start collecting box of FEC to a decent standard in a day using this. The preshade and oils work wonders on big muscley figures

[@LemanoftheRussVI]

Love this way you broke it all down. I'm excited to see where this series goes !

[@Capin91]

I always love when you push back on the ‘speed speed SPEEED’ culture- I personally have very little interest in speed, but I always enjoy trying new techniques!

[@citizenrico42]

Speed is a crazy metric. I've recently been tracking my painting time with Brushrage, and have found that speed is outweighed by enjoyment. But speed is king if painting an army.

[@CallyMayz]

When you've got 30-90 infantry models to paint, finding a fast technique is the only way you're likely to finish them. Especially when it's models that don't play well to doing different things with them and will all have the same look.

[@losmiercoles]

I painted many IF models over the years using a similar approach. What I found was, if you give the model an overall coat of ak dark brown wash oil paint through the airbrush, remove it from everything but the recesses using a make-up sponge and some white spirit, the black pin wash on the still-wet model will be precise, you can save both varnish steps, and get a nicer (rougher) texture at the end. Throw in some metal highlights with oil-based metallics and last but not least paint the lenses to get a smoother surface finish there. Only recorded the time once, and ended at 17h for 10 Intercessors, so I think you're right, batch-painting saves time, though getting nice basecoats down on a batch of 10 models can be challenging to your motivation sometimes.

[@Hakan-mz6pd]

A tip on masking, spray with the other color first to avoid bleeding, so then you did the white, start that with a black, for if it bleeds it will not show on the black side, and it will clog the places the white can bleed

[@harleyuk322]

Great video! I really enjoyed the analysis and comparison of different techniques and this was even better as you were so honest. You looked as if you were having fun too and I enjoyed the bloopers at the end. I hope this series is going to be a l-o-n-g one! 😃

[@Tankbrusher]

streaking is done individually and can be influenced by the medium you use. Gloss coat underneath is obsolete. Odorless thinner (model branded refined turpentine) is less aggressive than mineral spirits -imho.) What works well are switching between two (natural hair) No.2 brushes, one for application of the oil, one for blending the streak. Keep oil paints on cardboard paper as your pallet, not on plastic - helps with reducing the oil. The kind of weathering you did with oils, there is no place for a cotton swap, use a brush instead directly after application. If there is no mess, there is no cleanup.

[@nurglematthew893]

This was fun!

[@Gonnnondorf1]

Gosh darn that looks fantastic. I'm always super impressed with your decal integration. Super paintjob!

[@50043211]

I appreciate the attempts in nerd comedy! 😊

[@jpmegr1715]

Great vid as always Trovarion. I love the detailed explanation process and breakdown at the end. I cannot wait to see the next one in the series! 😊

[@PearlJam2k6]

The good thing here is that its decently accessible overall. Yes granted like you said you'd need the airbrush for example, or oils if you want to etc but it still doable with basic brushes and some contrast paints. I got the LE box of Sisters back when they came out and i still have to paint it, just cant get around to it so im trying to find a quick way to do so since i wont be playing with them anyway. They're only for display "as a plan" for now.

[@sayyahdina]

When I use oils I use cotton swabs if i want to leave some staining, if i'm trying to remove more the little double ended make-up sponges do a better job and leave no fibers behind. But like any technique repetition is the key to success!

[@trovarion]

Thanks for sharing!

[@beacon_models]

This is amazing!! With the streaking grime, I find that very small blobs of un-thinned oil paints work better, then you can streak and blend them with a soft brush that only has the slightest bit of thinner in the bristles. This gives you a lot more speed and control. But I love the techniques you used here and the result is outstanding!!

[@hobbithubby5076]

This is very close to my batch painting method. It gets much faster and cleaner with practice. Oil dot streaking also works great on infantry sized miniatures if you do it one dot at a time (apply dot, streak, repeat). Also, use eyeshadow sponges for removing oil instead of cotton swabs. They’re the same size, but don’t leave the fibers behind. I’d agree with the 8/10 rating. It’s definitely not the fastest, but for me, it’s the best balanced approach for an army project.

[@turbobhagwan]

Concept idea: Follower send in a picture of their miniature with described color set, you copy and improve it so the user can use the improvement on their own color set on their own army. Perhaps add, remove or change a color, or add a technique. You would help the community improve their armies and it would give you new challenges as long as there is an army to improve. I choose to give you this tip, because I need help and you are the most competent artist of all warhammer youtubers. Trovarion, we need yo... *transmission ended*

[@fenfire3824]

I paint with oil a lot and i think it is very very very underrated. Yes th drying time is high, but the painting time is very fast. If you paint a lot of models, it is much faster overall. I start with acrylic paints, airbrush the base color, base coating the rest. Then depending of the kind of material, i use different styles like drybrushing, dippling or scratching for leather, whatever needed. Then i apply all kinds of oil paints. If i need color blends, i don't use layering, takes too long. I do all blends only with oil paints. Also the highlights, you can dip a little spot on an edge and then smooth it out along the edge to get even these blendings in your highlights super fast. With enough training you can even paint NMM ultra fast with oil, but i am not good enough for it :D After everything is done, i seal the paint with varnish and do the weathering with oil at last, because it is a substractive method. You just put a blob of color wherever you want it, wait a bit, than remove it again where you have your highlights. It is super fast, super simple, and good textures will look amazingly realistic. It is the fastest high quality method i know.

[@uruk_bye1232]

Painting well quickly is a a microcosm of the painting world. It's a collection of techniques and shortcuts that you can get lost in and forget the theory behind it all that makes it work. I've had to go back and learn the theory to make it all make sense for me, and it gave me a number of new tools along the way. I'd encourage all novice painters to really consider why they're doing what they're doing and ask if there's a better way to get where they want to go.

[@Bishop0151]

Nice example of a multimedia approach. If you have problems with cotton buds shedding while cleaning up oil washes, look at getting some eye makeup application sponges. These use a synthetic fibre that doesn't shed, they usually have a broad head, with a thin edge, so you have tow options for larger surfaces, and tight spaces. A similar product, but slightly more expensive, is cleaning swabs, or clean-room swabs. These come in a wider variety of shapes and sized heads. Down to really small precise heads for cleaning electronic components.

[@roryhatfield6696]

Your energy and techniques are superlative.

[@onedollarminiatures.]

Bumblebee style is always nice 👍

[@neilcressey8189]

I like how you used yellow as a “hahaha try this at home, fools!” Oh man I hate yellow. I mean, I love it but, man alive it’s a colour that just doesn’t want to be painted. Love the video and the final result. Keep’em coming! 👍

[@adammotter]

Fantastic format! Both educational and honest critique. Looking forward to more like this.

[@LB-yg2br]

This would be a great way to batch paint a squad and have them look amazing.

[@MrGibsn1960]

I've preshaded with pink and it works well and doesn't end up too dark orange. Great looking mini!

[@DnBGolf]

The chipping on the left fist looks so good

[@joshuatatton531]

Excellent clip. Really informative. I look forward to the next one

[@isitrealynews]

The powerfist part was supernice!

[@johnjoobooks]

Beautiful model and beautiful painting, at least for someone who never painted or even saw painted army IRL. At some moments the video made me think about giving it a try, but then I imagined how long will it take just to get to 1/10th of that skill, and... Yeah, I'll better spend the money ordering such beauty already painted...

[@sebastianking2531]

One advice for the "masking tape wonky lines" at around 5:30, after you applied the tape your initial layer should be the base layer and then overspray with the color you want. So, in your example you spray a black base layer, then put masking tape on, then spray another layer of black over the tape and then spray the grey/white layer. This should give you a perfect line from the masking tape.

[@trovarion]

cool, I need to try that! I am trying to wrap my head around that and can't quite figure it out...why does this work?

[@sebastianking2531]

@trovarion No idea why it works, but it does. I learned this from my brother in law while painting a bi-colored wall and Harder&Steenbeck also mentioned this in the latest video "Tips for airbrushing with masks" at 3:30.

[@kocsisharrow]

@@trovarionthe bleed is essentially paint going into gaps, so by painting the base colour again, ontop of the fresh masking tape your making a seal, and the bleed through won’t be seen as it’s the same colour as the base. Spray the next colour ontop having no chance to bleed now as the previous colour filled the gaps in

[@brock8396]

You make the best looking paint jobs and it makes me want to start painting minis

[@VoltanIgnatio]

Great timing, literally just preordered some heresy marines for an imperial fists force. Super useful and learned a few things about workflow. It seems to be the biggedt opportunity for time saving imo. Also, masking takes longer than freehand for me (not that im good at it, but its fiddly) - would encourage people to learn it, straight lines are easier than they look

[@jtswargaming]

For the oil paint pin washing and streaking...your gloss varnish has to be thick enough to fill in the microscopic divots in a the matte surface underneath but thin enough to not obscure detail. Also, If you airbrush an acrylic varnish and then start oil painting on top of it too quickly, the varnish layer can rip and tear when you start trying to remove the excess/blend/feather the oil paint. 1. You can get away with one coat of varnish, but you need to make sure you hit absolutely every part of the mini. 2. If you are airbrushing your varnish and going for one coat, you may want a slightly thicker layer than you are used to. The mini should look wet, but no pooling. 3. Let your gloss varnish completely cure (up to ~24 hours depending on the type) 4. For paint removal, cotton swabs can work, makeup sponges are better 5. Until you get a feel for how much varnish you need, you blend over any staining with the oil equivalent of your midtone/shadow color very quickly

[@filipkovacec5759]

A good trick to avoid bleeding under the masking tape is to do a clear mat varnish before spraying actual paint. Varnish the masking point and let it dry than do the paint and clear varnish will seal the wholes where the paint would go. Your masking will be straight as hell :)

[@wukongthejedi]

i like this aproach for gaming miniatures. the point of diminishing returns for models used to play comes very fast in my opinion, but i think its just more fun to put extra effort in.

[@dawnstar5294]

Tamiya cotton swabs are excellent for cleaning up oil washes - They're highly durable, great fluid retention, and come in a variety of shapes including very sharp tips and flat edges for precision cleanup. The best part is that they don't fray like regular cotton swabs!

[@horatio_]

Seriously on point with the Arnold quotes

[@jorey4565]

Best masking putty : Crayola "silly putty",a big egg does a lifetime. Best to put the oil first on piece of cardbox to remove the excess oil from the paint . Best oil paint is OLD HOLLAND because there are no oil floading when squeezing the tube. Great painting !

[@MonsterHobbieShow]

You can eliminate the paint smudge or leakage under the mask by painting with the masked color tone before applying the final color. I mean, you painted the black side first, then masked it to paint the white side, instead of painting it white straight away (or light gray as you did), you should paint it black before painting it gray, this way you kind of seal the mask and the paint won't smudge or leak under it, so you use the color your mask is covering since that one is going to leak and seal the mask and won't be seen since it's the same color (not sure I made sense :P).

[@kaneworsnop1007]

If your more precise with your oil pin wash instead of running the brush over multiple areas then you will only get a small dot to clean up where the brush touched the model. Instead of using cotton buds, use a brush which is slightly dampened (not wet/soaked) with white spirit, enamel thinner, whatever your using. Great looking model though and a very helpful video. Edit: With the oil streaks use a far smaller brush, don't dilute the oil paint and apply tiny dots; and like above slightly dampened with with spirit ect, it's less random but you literally drag the streak down, then kind of clean in/blend/shape alternating between each side of the streak in the direction of gravity/the streak. I think you've gotten a bit confused with another technique called oil dot filters when your using the larger brushes, which again are too big and you don't want fanned bristles. This technique creates subtle streaks and filters of colour adding variation to the surface which also doubles up as a shade on the lower part and highlight on the upper part. It probably wouldn't be doable on models at this scale, but is perfect for vehicles and dreadnoughts. You cover the surface with tiny dots of oil paints in multiple colours to complement the colour of the panel and it can also be used to show a bit of grime and dust. Placing the darker colours towards the bottom and lighter towards the top. So the bottom you could use brown, orange and possibly red dots, the top of the panel pale yellow, white, pale grey. You then sweep a slightly moistened brush up and down the panel spreading out and blending the oil dots, this creats a filter which has colour variations throughout it adding a lot of interest. The best person to learn how to use oil and enamel paints from is a KZbin scale modeller called Night Shift, the man is a painting god!

[@RockinGlansBoysMeddlloide]

after throwing my miniatures through the room a few times they look also like that hahaha GG dude well done

[@whofreakincares1000]

Looks fantastic. Also love that you got creative with the model. Also learned a new microsol trick

[@piotrcthlu]

I think I enjoy your more relaxed detailed stuff more, but man for two hours this is amazing result. It would probably take like 6h when you're a regular human being without 100 golden demons I suppose 😂 still it's awesome. I don't care about speed painting but this was still good content and as always we can learn something from each video. Thank you! I have high hopes for integrating oils into regular painting, so was really glad to see you use some in the new vid :)

[@daeval947]

I've never tried it on a miniature, or with hobby masking tape, but a trick that works on larger scale masking tape applications is to paint color 1 (preferably the lighter color), apply the tape as cleanly as you can, then paint the same color just over the edge of the tape again to "seal" it. After that, you can paint color 2 and it shouldn't bleed because color 1 has already dried into any gaps. If you lay the "seal" coat on too thick, the risk of tearing when you remove the paint increases, but I haven't had a problem with it at house paint scale. I'd be curious to see if this works in a model painting scenario.

[@jaylonreidhead157]

I love the idea of this series! Please keep it up!

[@4Xscalper]

Love your video technique! You get it going pretty quickly and keep it moving and I like that - alot.

[@PrimeSniper7]

Make sure that oil paints are completely dried/cured before varnishing, or else the oil paints continuing to dry underneath the dried varnish will crack the acrylic layers above. Depending on what oil paints you use and how much of it is applied, this can take up to a couple days. Instead of the cotton buds/q-tips for neatening after applying oils, I would recommend some makeup wedges. They don't have fibers to leave behind and they're both porous and cheap.

[@monophthalmus3254]

I tried the same and it will take some practice before I can get it to look as good as yours.

[@Rlndgunslinger]

...I think most people lack your confidence, knowledge, experience, and creativity. I think that's why they're not painting like you. Love your channel though. ❤

[@christoph6694]

Great work love it and will try this on my IFs now! 😉

[@Veles343]

This is pretty much my method of doing my imperial fists though of course you have nailed it far better than I can on your first experimental model 😅 One thing I do though that I'm slapping my forehead about is that I usually start with a black or grey prime, then go all over with a red before doing zenithal or volumetric highlights with white ink. Seems far more sensible to cut out the middle man and go straight in with white primer. There are a lot of variations you can make to do this preshade technique too, like I've tried using a maroon oil wash and white edge highlights on the pre-shade layer rather than pin wash and edge highlight after which worked quite well

[@fuzzyhair321]

I have recently just gotten into airbrushing, trying out different schemes but im using more brighter colours

[@richardokeeffe8375]

Looks incredible. What video has the full decal advice?

[@myluresstuckinatree2111]

“If your a messy painter, like me”. 🙄 Another brilliant video. Much appreciated. Love it

[@alancook1053]

Great job!! Excellent simple instruction! End result table top plus plus in a short time!! A logical rating system. A good format for more videos until you get board😂

[@rhag1394]

Great breakdown! The end result is indeed great and at amazing speed. I always try painting fast but then lose myself in the final details :) I'm currently painting more with oil paints and like them a lot, but I have exactly the same issue with pin washes if I try them...

[@TristanSmith87]

i find that makeup sponges work better at removing oil paint the cotton swabs. you can get a big bag of makeup sponges and cut them into multiple smaller sponges and make the bag last a long time. i would also recommend using gloves cuz oil paints is messy! thanks for the video, you rock bro!

[@johnostholm8820]

Great vid! Stunning results as always! I would like to add another perspective to the "how long did that take to paint?" -question. I believe that you discussed this in your talk with Vince as well (I could be mistaken as it has been a while :) ). From the perspective of a noob painter it makes sense to ask, since if the answer is that something took dramatically less time than anticipated, this indicates that there is some technique that I do not know. If you said that you spent 15 hours on this particular terminator, that would have been more or less expected and I would have imagined that you went through the regular steps of layering and Glazing. While if you told me this took 2 1/2 hours I would realise that there is likely something more to it than holding a fan to dry each layer faster :) Just, from a painting noobs perspective - thank you for the great videos!

[@TheLegendMythMan]

You should spray the dark color on top of the lighter if possible when using masking tape. And also spray either som of the previous color or varnish before the other color. That will help prevent that the new color from creeping up under the masking tape.

[@BowlingRat]

Painting an entire army like this would take ages.

[@MrNicoew]

Thank you for this, Trovarion! This video is perfect for my situation. Im starting my 3rd army - Wolves. I want to paint marines with a volume look, I want it to not look like dog shit and be as quick about it as I can be.

[@TokenOfMyAffection]

Great video buddy! Really liked this :)

[@Tekkaman76]

ausgezeichnet!! Love this style, please more!

[@kurthasedd7923]

I haven't tried this for masking yet, but I heard to do this to prevent bleed: Put your first color down, then mask it off. After that put a coat of gloss varnish over the top of the tape seam, then paint on your second color and that should prevent bleed

[@SigurdFlaatten]

When masking like this, paint the first color over the edge of the masking tape first (your grey "white). Then paint the black. When you take of the masking tape you have a perfect edge. Which also means, in your case, you would need to do the white side first. It wouldn't work so well the other way because white doesn't cover black so well ;-)

[@CrazyLikeATiger]

I did my Iyanden with a magenta under paint and found that I couldn't get the magenta to read dark enough for the deepest shadows, even at full opacity. My solution was to spray the darkest shadows with "intense blue" first, and slightly overlap that with layers of magenta. Then I did the yellow layers by only slightly overlapping into the magenta, which gives a very "Glam" effect that I think is perfect for Elves in space. Also my pin washes were magenta slightly darkened with purple. It's not a "speed" method by any means but it looks fantastic.

[@trovarion]

Sounds cool!

[@mrwoodandmrtin]

That burnt yellow looks good. Especially with white and black graphics.

[@Keddlecorn]

When you use masking tape, like you did on the fist, you have to form a dried paint seal. So you would mask up, airbrush the black, mask the black, then instead of doing that white like you wanted, you have to spray down a layer of black first. This forms a seal against the tape, so after it dries fully you can go ahead and do the white half. When you peel up the tape, it should be a perfect line. It's annoying but that's how tape be.

[@cbjewelz]

Great video! What about drying time for the varnishes and oil paints?

[@richardwhitehead6966]

Really like this approach. Similar in style to Ninjon's speed painting of his terminators. Your weathering was more effective, but essentially it took twice as long. Getting back into the hobby after many years absence and now with two kids, I need to learn as many speed methods as possible.

[@trovarion]

It also looks twice as good.

[@richardwhitehead6966]

​@@trovarion well, art is always subjective... The main issue with Ninjon's is that they are Ultramarines. The main issue with yours is that they are Imperial Fists. However that is a really great looking, grim dark, yellow.

[@fatdelinquent85]

do you use tamiya masking tape ? It's really the best there is.Hands down. It also helps if you don't spray from the non-masked area towards the masked area. Straight down on the edge is the most you should do. Minding your airbrush pressure has also some effect. The less pressure the better. This comes from scalemodeling.

[@Bodkin_Ye_Pointy]

Because you are a genius and people struggle to keep up.

[@squigdaddy]

I use a layer of varnish when i use maskingtape it fills up the small gaps. Its awsome for bigger areas but the principle should work on small areas as well. Oh yeah, almost forgot awsome work!

[@ShadowDrakken]

For this size model, instead of cotton swabs you should consider using micro swabs. They don't have the long fibers like cotton swabs and will let you target the individual oil streaks better.