Atari Tetris cocktail arcade restoration part 2 📺 K7000 monitor cap kit, flyback, & rejuvenation

[@alanbrady9609]

I buy scrap lexan from my local plastics company. They usually have a pile I can pick through for whatever project I’m working on, great video!

[@overtimearcade]

Thanks! Look at me, buying plexi/lexan at full retail like a sucker! 😫

[@delsarcade]

Soak the reject button (for the coin door) in Evaporust. Then polish the button that is showing on the front of the coin door with a small metal brush on a Dremel. Lastly spray it with WD-40 to prevent future rust and wipe it down to remove excess (like you do with a tool, wrench, etc.)

[@beeznutts3323]

I was going to suggest CLR. Is evaporust essentially the same?

[@delsarcade]

@beeznutts3323 it works way better. And it's reusable! Just pour it back into the bottle! (Directions on the bottle say to do this)

[@beeznutts3323]

@@delsarcade thanks for the tip!

[@overtimearcade]

Thanks, I'll try that!

[@Professorke]

As an old television repairman, I have a tip, when you reform the picture tube, you should lightly tap the neck of the picture tube with the back of a small screwdriver, that way more oxidation will come off and the short circuit will dissolve better.

[@overtimearcade]

Thanks -- I've heard someone mention that before. Would you also recommend using the rejuvenator with the tube facing down on a towel or something?

[@Professorke]

@@overtimearcade With the picture tube flat down, I don't think this is a good idea because residual oxidation can get between the grid.

[@overtimearcade]

@Professorke I was worried about that too!

[@Astinsan]

you can spray clear coats to match the sheen. You want a satin finish.

[@overtimearcade]

For what, the cabinet itself? Once I finish the bondo repairs, etc. I'll repair the entire exterior with satin black paint.

[@RodriguezArcades]

Great work Charlie awesome videos

[@overtimearcade]

Thanks, Jose -- I appreciate your support!

[@kevtris]

reminds me of that sony PVM I have where this type of thing happened. Tapping on the neck would make the short come and go, and when it was manifesting, it was very similar to this; kind of a "fog" on the picture. I don't think it's an HK short, that'd give you a bright retrace line, so program a KG short of some form. On the PVM, when it was showing the issue, tapping the neck makes it go away for awhile. tapping also can bring it back! I have a video posted on this CRT.

[@overtimearcade]

Thanks! Is it this video? kzbin.info/www/bejne/n6qtdZSjZcefj6M

[@kevtris]

@@overtimearcade yes, that's the one. You can see me tap on the neck near the end to change the behavior, and that's when it finally dawned on me it was the crt. There used to be replacement CRTs available but no more. fortunately I have 2 more of these monitors that are working properly.

[@overtimearcade]

I'm still having trouble with it... this tube might be a goner...

[@shawncruiksh]

I think it would be awesome to see you try and sandblast those rusty coin doors!! ❤

[@overtimearcade]

But I don’t own a sandblasting cabinet! 😭

[@shawncruiksh]

Do it the Troy way! Blow it into the wind!! 🌬️

[@overtimearcade]

With what abrasive media though??

[@shawncruiksh]

Aluminum Oxide? I’ve never done it, fair warning

[@overtimearcade]

@shawncruiksh Troy recommends fine coal slag.

[@KJW648]

Auto degauss coil works on heat(thermistor) , you need to leave some time for it to cool down before it degauss again.

[@overtimearcade]

Thanks -- I figured it was something like that!

[@tigheklory]

The evaporust and rustoleum are both phosphoric acid which turns the iron oxide to iron phosphate (white) which is easily removed. Don't use vinegar as it doesn't clean up as nicely. I wonder if the red gun pin is half broken on the neck?

[@overtimearcade]

Look for a loose pin? Maybe there’s corrosion/oxidation on the socket? Gently tapping the neck board didn’t seem to affect the issue, but tapping the neck board pots did, which is why I suspect them.

[@tigheklory]

@overtimearcade watching the red readings jump around on the rejuvenator and when hooked to the chassis made me think that. Just something I was wondering

[@overtimearcade]

@tigheklory I will look into it POST HASTE!

[@atariforever2002]

Charlie, do you have a video or something on that homemade power supply & iso transformer thing you made? I NEED one of those badly! lol

[@overtimearcade]

Right here! kzbin.info/www/bejne/gIbJpGl6bL56gac

[@tigheklory]

@@atariforever2002 yeah but if you are using it as a bench supply when you are working on a monitor don't ground it like Charlie does.

[@atariforever2002]

@@overtimearcade you rock buddy! Thanks!

[@atariforever2002]

@@tigheklory why not?

[@beeznutts3323]

@@tigheklorywhat’s the reasoning behind this?

[@mrnmrn1]

Those intermittent blue and red flashes are most likely the tube, unfortunately. The short flashes are probably K-G1 shorts, the last full red raster with retrace lines might be heater-cathode short. I suggest to go a bit higher with the heater voltage in cleaning mode, then the shorts might become constant, and so you can hit the blue and red with the clear shorts function. I suggest not to use the cleaning function on them anymore, you hit them quite a lot already. If the red still flashes after this, isolate the heater supply in the monitor. What brand of tube is this?

[@overtimearcade]

Thanks, I’ll try that! The brand of tube on this one is Philips.

[@waynegram8907]

When setting the dials for the RGB Cut offs on the restorer unit, what the RGB cut offs do to the arcade monitor RGB beams?

[@overtimearcade]

I don't know for certain, but from what I've seen, cutoff is like a color balance for darker shades of grey.

[@waynegram8907]

@@overtimearcade So do you just turn the cut-off trim pots for each RGB color until each color turns a dark Grey?

[@overtimearcade]

@waynegram8907 It’s a little bit different for each monitor, but the manual usually provides step for white/color balancing. arcarc.xmission.com/PDF_Monitors/

[@bradydoesprojects]

My Tetris Cocktail has dedicated CPOs, different from the upright. Did they make a cocktail kit with art?

[@overtimearcade]

I'm not entirely sure -- are there photos of your dedicated Tetris cocktail CPOs available anywhere online? I don't think I've seen them before.

[@beeznutts3323]

Charlie, not sure where you got your lexan and plexiglass info, but you have some of it backwards. Lexan is the stronger of the two and much more scratch resistant than Plexiglas. For a control panel, I’d definitely use lexan as any rings or bracelets worn during play will scratch Plexiglas. Yes lexan is more prone to yellowing, but in an indoor climate controlled environment, this reasoning is essentially moot. Plexiglas is technically more “clear” but the difference to the naked eye is negligible. Use lexan

[@overtimearcade]

This is the info I was seeing -- you'd recommend differently? forums.arcade-museum.com/threads/how-to-make-and-drill-a-plexiglass-acrylic-overlay.528609/

[@tigheklory]

Oh and keep that drill away from the front of a CRT. Unless you like degaussing.

[@overtimearcade]

Even when it’s off and hasn’t been used in days?

[@tigheklory]

@overtimearcade some motors have permanent magnets in them, so yes. But even a fully electromagnet motor can still magnetize the metal parts in the drill. Just hold the drill up to the screen to check.

[@overtimearcade]

Good call!