BEFORE YOU BUY, Seer Rating, homeowners biggest mistake

There is a lot of confusing information about seer rating and how much it saves you. A higher seer rating on an air conditioner might not save you as much as you think. In this video, I'll explain the actual savings you can expect to get.
Before you buy, find out the ends and outs of HVAC systems.
New AC Unit Cost: atlasacrepair.com/blog/new-ac...
New HVAC System Cost: atlasacrepair.com/blog/hvac-r...
Best Air Conditioner Brands: atlasacrepair.com/blog/best-a...
Find us at: atlasacrepair.com
Regulated by The Texas Department of Licensing and Regulation, 1-800-803-9202

[@kjhnsn7296]

I have a 23yr old Rheem 10 Seer AC system. Still runs great. Over the years ive only had to replace the contacts and capacitor. It runs on avg only 3 months out of the year and then only for a few days at a time typically. Ive thought about replacing it just because of age, but id probably never get my money back on the new system and my biggest fear, the new system turns out to not be as reliable as the +20yr old system it would replace.

[@LFTRnow]

Some more points to this - A lot of older systems were as low as 10 SEER and what people forget is the rating is what it is NEW. As they age, efficiency drops. A limping unit of 10 SEER is more like 6-8 SEER. In that case, replacing with a 15 SEER roughly cuts energy use in half (plus you needed the new unit anyway). This on-screen calculator is good, but feed it realistic data. Rebates also of course definitely help, and if you get a good deal and financing, it may roughly pay for itself on a monthly basis from the power savings. One more thing to consider, particularly if you plan to live there for a decade+ and that is that energy costs WILL go up over time as kWh get more expensive with inflation. However, you paid a fixed cost for the unit years ago. That means you are getting a better return in the later years as well.

[@RP-gi4ch]

I believe the point of the video was clear. You could do a video and go into as much detail as you think your average viewer can absorb.

[@huinyavaina]

agreed on the reduced efficiency with age and the rebates to calc in. disagree on the inflation point of view: - if you buy it upright, you pay fixed amount, but you bear the opportunity loss (=$ u'd make investing this money) - if you finance it, you are not paying a fixed amount, rather a calculated estimate of the future inflation etc the only way this argument makes sense is when you finance it for X% and the inflation (or your ROI of the whole amount) is higher (after taxes)

[@MetaTaco317]

Yeah, you're right on the inflation part not being correct. However, on your example, let's say inflation is 5%. if you buy a system today with 0% interest & pay it off a year from now, you'd pay it off with inflated (cheaper/discounted by 5%) dollars. Assuming you actually had the cash available today, there's plenty of savings accounts & 1 yr CDs paying 5% so the dollars you have today would maintain their value.

[@MetaTaco317]

Thanks, this is the comment I was looking for. I'm in the market for a new system to replace a 19 year old Carrier that I think is 11 SEER (but might be wrong on that). I recall each company I had our to quote the job saying it wouldn't be running near that rating all these years later but couldn't remember how much of an efficiency hit it's taken after all these years.

[@Michael-qy1jz]

Is there a % drop formula by year? I have a 2004 package standard air still kicking lol. Any idea of approximate loss? I have a new Trane over under to replace it with later this year whe. It cools down and I have time.

[@michaelclark7602]

I'm from Florida. My electric bill was $338. I had a contractor's tensier. I went to a 21 sear. And my electric bill went to $168.

[@uncivilizedengr4873]

an honest salesman? nice!

[@TexSupport]

Living in your service area, your candor and honesty have you at the top of my list when I need to replace my system.

[@odd13579]

very nice topic, thank you for sharing! the tool is missing two important elements. (1) where does the homeowner set the thermostat? average yearly cooling hours may not be representative if not adjusted to the user's comfort zone. (2) doesn't appear to address houses with two ac units. i find the tool seriously under reports our electrical expenses by about 400%. our electric bill is massively dominated by hvac, and drops immensely in winter. with our solar gain, we actually seldom use heat in the winter. the seasonal difference allows us to make a rough estimate our cooling-related expenses, as distinguished from other less seasonally-affected electrical usage.

[@RichMartin]

Thanks for the simplified explanation and showing the calculator...very helpful.

[@SavageNasty253]

I appreciate how you detailed "this seer rating is in the two stage ac units and those are more costly at **.***". I really do appreciate knowing where that particular line starts.

[@steveoxler9774]

As a service tech and HVAC shop owner I would often be tasked with "fixing" high SEER AC systems. In the end I made the customers happy by making adjustments that reduced the SEER rating in order to get control of the humidity. I never forgot that in the HVAC business I sold comfort and reliability.

[@jbar_85]

How do I have my ac company to do that? They will mention something about about the warranty. We need the humidity to go lower.

[@dallasstroud8061]

Great explanation of the Seer ratings, thank you.

[@36736fps]

Thanks for the info on the SEER calculator. I plan to use it. The big issue I have with it is all the assumptions built into the calculations to arrive at an average cost savings despite potential large variations in annual usage. For example we are retired and spend more time at home than most people so we run the ac more each day, and we run it more months than most people in Colorado, so our annual savings would be more. I do plan on getting the lowest SEER I can, probably around 14, mostly because we may not stay in this house more than 5 more years. Guessing at future electrical rates is a real crap shoot. The calculator shows a current rate in Denver that is about half the summer afternoon rate so the savings calculated are much lower than can be expected right now.

[@roymurrayanderson7573]

I’m on my 22 nd year for both my 3 ton and 3.2 ton carriers. Single story. Replaced some capacitors and fan motor on one and added a hard start and new contacts 2 years ago to one unit. Getting nervous about needing to replace soon. Atlas is now #1 on my list to use. I’m in Austin so happy that you service this area.

[@ivanjuniour4849]

Stick with carrier, they've built way better systems. I love mines.

[@Richie_7777]

Need more people like you in the HVAC industry. I like how you use data to support your points and include rebates. In some areas this saving can be greater as utility cost are higher and local rebates are more. For, example I received a rebate of $2,500 for switching to a HeatPump from all electric. Also, people don’t put a valve on comfort. While, an inverter systems may not pay for itself. A homeowner can have a greater level of comfort.

[@rsr789]

It really depends IF the person can afford an inverter system or not. Taking an A/C unit aside, I wish I could afford impact windows on my apartment, cuz they would insult far better than the 1980's single-pane glass I have on there now, which would not only lower my A/C bills and extend the life of my unit, but would also minimize the amount of outside noises that gets into my apt... and of course being able to stop flying debris in case of a hurricane lol.

[@lestersmith8758]

I would never replace a working unit for a new unit with a higher SEER rating just to expect savings, however if the unit is in need of replacing I look at instead of the same seer rating, I would go to a higher SEER rating as long as I was replacing it anyway. I took my bills for 2 years with my 13 SEER heat pump and then took my bills for a 16 SEER unit for 2 years. Averaging these two sets of bills and I averaged a $38 dollar per month savings. That amounted to over $450 per year. So there is a real payback by going to a higher SEER rating. When there is a $2000. difference between the two SEER ratings I think the payback is substantial. I have had the 16 SEER unit for 10 years now, so at $450 per year times 10 years, $4500, it is a great savings.

[@javierh35]

Great video as an HVAC tech in Colorado I would rather have customers be well educated about this. Where you could possibly see more savings is when you are using a heat pump application with higher seer ratings where you can use it year long especially with soaring natural gas prices.

[@dieselwelds8645]

Last Christmas I replaced our 2000 train 12seer unit with a Mr Cool 19seer mini split/air handler. $3500 total shipped 3ton unit plus 10kw strips and pre-vac/pre-charge line sets. Has been working like a champ esp with 17°F temps in GA right now. Used to work in HVAC for some guys like 25yrs ago so knew what I was getting into

[@andreycham4797]

You are on the wrong channel . People here sell AC units without heat pumps. They are very comfortable under the rock and do not want anybody to progress beined stone age

[@user-bm9cn6gr9v]

did you use the new universal system? or standard mini split with a few heads?

[@robertsmith2956]

@@user-bm9cn6gr9v I looked at the central, and would have had to lose half my closet. They didn't allow for a bottom duct downflow. Waterboard's head version died, and I tried to get them to give it to me so I could rip open the control board and see if they are practical for my needs. My RasperryPi controls my AC, and everything else in the house. If it can't be controlled by me, I don't want it.

[@privatename3621]

@@andreycham4797 And there are also unscrupulous AC salesment/techs that would advise people in S. Florida to install a heat pump instead of a normal AC system with the false notion that it will be "more efficient" and cost them less. When in fact, S. Florida may only see 3-5 days *max* where someone might feel like turning on their heat for those rare "chilly" nights where it dips down into the 50's or 40's in the evening. The rest of the year, a heat pump goes unused. And a 16 SEER2 AC system vs. a 16 SEER2 heat pump system have *exactly* the same energy efficiency (by law). So there's a lot of very bad info out there regarding heat pump units. The irony is, Florida and some parts of Texas are probably the only "ideal" places for these types of units, given the infrequent number of 40 degree and lower days. Yet, a standard AC system there makes much more sense for the reasons stated. Yet, in other parts of the country north of the Bible Belt, these heat pumps suck badly at energy efficiency on cold nights and also do not work as well when trying to heat a home at 40 or below, which is pretty common during their winter months. So what happens? They are convinced by the AC sales guy to buy an added heating coil (furnace) to help out, completely defeating the entire reason having a heat pump. So basically, heat pumps are the red-headed step child of the AC industry. A technology without a home because they are not an ideal fit pretty much anywhere, and are overpriced to the point that you'll never achieve an ROI, and certainly in nowhere near the time as a standard AC + heating coil system. And maybe that's why the gov't is wasting billions in taxpayer money on these rebate incentives for buying them. No one really wants or needs them.

[@conmigocarolinadelnorte3534]

Great video helps decide the righr choice for the price!

[@billakers6082]

I live in the Houston area and I was told by more than one professional HVAC tech that anything more than a 16 SEER is a waste of money. Higher SEER's parts and repairs are much more expensive and don't provide a noticeable difference.

[@macmovieman1]

I love your content and wish that you were local in my market in Southern California. I the more content I watch the more changes that I see coming to the HVAC industry and it makes me want to wait a little bit longer until maybe 2025 but I’m sure they’ll be more changes then. I’m not sure the industry is seen this many changes and regulation with the new year.

[@curtislaketek2822]

The multi speed compressor is nice to keep the humidity down

[@samTollefson]

My 18-year-old Rheem heat pump is, I believe a seer 10.5 to replace it with a seer15 I will save a whopping $200 a year. Needless to say, I will be running my old system for as many more years as I can. My biggest electric bill saving was adding insulation to my attic from an R-12 (that mulched newspaper stuff that shrank down to 2" over the years) to an R-50 (fiberglass blown in). My electric bill dropped by almost 2/3rds and the power company paid for part of the upgrade. Definitely the most bang for the buck in energy savings!

[@helenveasey7318]

That's fantastic savings. Really like this plan of action. That is real savings you can see right away.

[@robertsmith2956]

Strange how they claim they want you to upgrade your insulation, but then say DROP DEAD if you put it in yourself.

[@danburkhardt8293]

Great job explaining !

[@bethmotley0311]

We have a 1984 Williamson that is still going strong. It is rusted out and leaning a little, but our HVAC guy says it is running more efficient now than when it was manufactured. I’m not sure how, but we’ll use it until it takes its last breath.

[@matthewbyrd398]

EER is a much better gauge to use. EER is a steady-state test done at 95 F ambient. Also, the SEER is lower on larger tonnages. Manufacturers get their line SEER ratings off their 2-ton units with 4-ton evaporator coil.

[@mapa5000]

Outstanding explanation !!!👏🏼👏🏼👏🏼

[@tedjohnson64]

This video was really informative.

[@danbro1970]

Excellent Video.... I am learning a lot from you.

[@johnwindsor9069]

Great video! I'm a 30+ year AC service/contractor. I've always thought once we reached the 14 SEER efficiency, the actual savings for going beyond 14 was minimal. However, 16 SEER seems to be the sweet spot in S Fla as far as cost vs performance. 12 years seems to be the average age we see people replace their units here since they run 12 months out of the year, by 15 years there totally shot.

[@Michael-we9vp]

AC units here in Phoenix rarely last more than 14 years...Carrier- Bryant costs more but they hold up better than the others...

[@coldjello8436]

I’m in broward county and I I’ve been getting quotes on a new system…

[@johnwindsor9069]

@@coldjello8436 The prices of equipment have shot up considerably in the last 2 years. They new seer2 standards have given the manufacturers the green light to raise prices yet once again.

[@coldjello8436]

@@johnwindsor9069 guess I’ll just go buy 5 window units

[@picklerix6162]

If properly maintained, there’s no reason that good HVAC equipment won’t last 20-25 years or longer. The compressor in my Lennox condensing unit finally gave out after 28 years. The real issue with most of the HVAC systems in my neighborhood is that the cheap duct board plenums came apart and no filter driers were installed on the liquid line.

[@jlg3315]

thank you! this is a really extraordinarily good channel.

[@bobboscarato1313]

There was an Atlas A/C company in Texas which airconditioned many homes. They did like 80 thousand homes a year. That was a lot of homes.

[@pablopicaro7649]

have a 2003 5ton lennox listed as SEER 13.6 , still working fine after 19 seasons. Did need a new Capacitor last year tho.

[@jamesbruce1183]

My 38 yr old Lennox HS-14 is still running. I measured 7.8A draw on low speed. That's about 1,700W. So it's still pretty efficient. It has definitely paid for itself as other units installed in our subdivision at that time were about 8.5 SEER. It is still very quiet. Setting your thermostat to 75 or 78 reduces run hours significantly thus increasing the life of the unit. It will also increase your time to pay back because you reduce your overall cost of cooling.

[@danlah1303]

There is something to be said for keeping things simple. I’ll avoid the bells and whistles that introduce more things that can go wrong. 16 SEER for me.

[@jgmatp]

100% agree. I also love my 22 year old truck that has crank windows and a real key that you can get copied at a hardware store for 4 bucks. easy to maintain, runs like new, without the unnecessary complex junk that can break over time.

[@actechchris]

Best way to improve systems performance is to make sure your airflow is perfect… Not close… Not good enough! Too many of my customers want me to just throw in a high seer system and keep their undersized/leaky ducting system.

[@picklerix6162]

Over 30 years ago, I was shocked at all of the airflow issues that I found in very expensive homes. Back then, HVAC ductwork design seemed to be an afterthought in many high-end homes.

[@ckm-mkc]

The one circumstance where SEER really matters is if you are off-grid or trying to cover all your electric usage with solar - a low SEER system will have a cascading effect on all the other systems you need as it will create a much higher load.

[@ivanjuniour4849]

I have carrier infinity 7 stage 22 seer, 3200sqf home, half shaded. Previous electric bill winter $280-$400 68°, summer $200-$325 75° avg house temp. New carrier 7 stage greenspeed winter $95-$150 71° summer $60-100 74°. I'd say it's paying for it's self. It was expensive a heck but i also got a larger unit due to add-ons to my house. All new ducts and dual heat pump. This is the best you can get right now. The bigger the house the more important seer factor is. You want a good efficient system with a large house especially in direct sunlight. 2 story with zone control.

[@enosdesign]

These videos are fantastic. We recently had our 22-year-old Lenox die on us and have been looking at multiple replacement units. Your explanations and cost/benefit analysis are very helpful. Thank you!

[@Andy-xc8uz]

Im in the same boat. What did you end up going with? I want to stick with Lennox but the class action suit and how they acted is scaring me.

[@wj2791]

@@Andy-xc8uz I have over 50 units of AC that is in my building and been finding out that all AC's are about same now on quality. They are not lasting long time like in the past. So, for my opinion, it doesn't matter which maker for the quality and longevity. ( Trane - Lennox - Carrier - Rheem )

[@korenng5553]

As a consumer replacement on residential builder 2 Lennox after 23 yrs in Las Vegas Summerlin - appreciate this very much! Thks 👍 keep up the great work!

[@georgemendez777]

Talk about the variable speed system and zoning to eliminate 1 unit. I did that and I can tell you I am saving an enormous amount of money on my energy bill while still being able to maintain the same or in my case better comfort levels in my home during the summer in arizona so similar to Texas weather. I am super happy with the results yes it was expensive and I am one of the few that will be seeing an roi over 15 years from selecting a variable speed unit.

[@ivanjuniour4849]

I am the same! 3200sqf west GA, I'm saving a ton.

[@jstaffordii]

Best bang for the buck has nothing to do with SEER. It has to do with sealing the house. Better insulation, duct sealing , high U-factor glass package and caulking air leaks. The better the envelope is sealed the less HVAC required. This is why manual J calculation is required for new system installs. Our window replacement package saved $40/month the HVAC only saved $15/month.

[@lawrenceralph7481]

I am very happy with my 5T 34 year old occasionally repaired AC unit. It drops duct air outlet temperature 20F on 5.6 -5.8 kW. Careful use holds the house temperature to 78 F with about $1000 of CA inflated electrons over a 5 mo Delta cooling sesson. Paying $25k for a new HVAC that can save me $400 a season, maybe, wont happen until my unit cant be repaired.

[@odd13579]

agreed, but who would ever guess that manual d could be even more critical? i purchased a new home in 2008. the ac never worked well. on hot days, it never got cool. we outsourced a manual j to an independent operator: it was right on track for the installation capacity. but very little air comes out of the ducts. you might have the best core system in the world, well matched to your needs, but without the right ducts, how can the cool get to you? ps the builder gave us the "not our problem, work with our hvac subcontractor" hassle, we worked with them for two years, paid another $4k for zoning in hope that southern exposure needed more cooling: no satisfaction, nothing worked. that hvac installation company is no longer in business. didn't help us one bit: that house was a bust for summer comfort. pps as an indication of their competence, the attic install had black-plastic coated flexible ducting. it gets very hot up there. a radiant coating may not have solved everything, but it sure would have helped more than a heat absorbent black!

[@privatename3621]

@@odd13579 fyi - the color black has no affect on heat absorption without light. So, unless you have a glass roof above your attic, changing the black ductwork out would've made no difference, unless other factors were at play, such as undersized ductwork or dirty clogged ducts.

[@odd13579]

@@privatename3621 radiant barriers help to reflect heat, that's why they're used in places such as under rafters,etc. you ask, is black polimer absorbent in the near infrared heat spectra? the answer is yes, absolutely! the small amounts of carbon black or soot in black polymers absorb all light in the NIR spectral region (in other words, it absorbs heat)(source: detection of black plastics in the middle infrared spectrum, mdpi 2017, accessed from nih.gov in 2024).

[@menuachaparyan2263]

Yes. Sure.... If you use a MERV 1 filter and replace it every week, clean your evaporator coil and condenser coil once a month, and maintain a Delta 1 MPA coil static pressure drop in a dustless environment throughout the lifetime of your unit, you could save some amount of money. These SEER numbers were taken from a unit that was installed in a perfect ideal laboratory setting. However, it's important to note that the SEER system doesn't account for the fact that when a service technician shows up to work on an 8 or 12 SEER unit, there are three analog components that can be faulty, and the technician can diagnose the problem in just a few minutes. On an 18 SEER unit, however, the technician may spend all day or even months trying to figure out which one of the 50 pressure switches is causing the problem. If one of these switches needs to be replaced, it can cost a minimum of $2500, wiping out any potential savings. In the real world, a conventional single-speed blower motor costs around $65, while a 2-speed ECU motor costs around $340. Just letting you know I am a service technician who works in the field and if I am called out to a 18 seer or higher unit I automatically add a $800 (FML fee) on top of whatever I am going to charge and thats being generous... If you are a homeowner don't ever ever ever let some clean cut pretty boy salesman sell you on the idea that a high efficiency unit will pay for itself. Trust me it wont! the lower the SEER rating the longer it will last and the better it will serve you.

[@privatename3621]

"if I am called out to a 18 seer or higher unit I automatically add a $800 (FML fee) on top of whatever I am going to charge" Hey do us a favor and let readers know who you are and what company you work for so we can all avoid you like the plague. It's folks like you in the AC industry that give it a bad name. If you are not charging customers a flat hourly labor fee for trouble shooting, you are not only "doing it wrong" you are also being unscrupulous. But hey, if you can't take the heat of learning how to troubleshoot the modern systems, maybe its time to get out of the kitchen?

[@chucknSC]

Higher than expected savings is most likely due to replacing a system that was not operating properly nor meeting its original performance SEER. Simply replacing an old worn unit with the same rated seer should save energy by direct comparison.

[@macmovieman1]

I’m also confused about the longevity of the newer systems. If I’ve had a system for 10 years and I’m getting ready to replace it is it more likely to last 12 or 14 years? Is some of the extra money that I’m spending going towards a unit that’s gonna be around longer?

[@GoldMineArcade]

I live in GA and use to have a 13 seer Trane. I bought a 21 seer variable speed 5 ton Goodman with a lifetime compressor warranty and 10 year air handler warranty. You have to go through a dealer in GA like most states. I bought mine off eBay from Ohio if I remember right. There's 2 or 3 States that allow consumers to buy direct without going through a middle man. I bought mine about 6 years ago and paid $4,500 and the installer charged me $1,200. I'm in Savannah GA on the coast and have no shade at all. My electric bill use to be $700-$800 during the summer and now it's $300-$400. Best investment I ever did

[@brucecann1591]

I really like your channel. I have a 20 year old heat pump system. I’m really good at maintaining the system. It runs just a good as it did when we bought the house new in 2002 and the compressor sounds about the same as it always has. I know I’m getting close to it’s end of life. I live in a all electric community so a heat pump is a requirement. I’m in California and my winter electric bills are always more then summer. What are your thoughts about what I should upgrade to? Should I run this system until it dies or replace before it dies? It’s a Beutler system. Thanks.

[@mikefranks4528]

I just purchased a 240v/38 SEER 9k BTU Innovation mini split unit. A KZbinr did a test on the heating of it in a 24-hour test of 30-degree F average weather to maintain 66-degrees F (Delta: 36 degrees F) inside his garage. Conclusion was that he used 6260 Wh (watt/hours) divided by 24 hours = 261 watts average use! I find that to be pretty amazing for the heat. I wonder how the air conditioning will perform in hot weather. Would love to hear any feedback on this data that I shared from the professionals.

[@markrezac3984]

I wished you talked about the parts availability when a unit breaks down, no matter if the unit is under warranty or not, basically its gonna be harder to get parts for a very high efficiency system over a basic SEER rated unit. My HVAC people sold me on this to get a standard SEER rated system so repair parts were mostly on the tech trucks for replacement. My parents went through this when they had to wait 3 months for a high end variable SEER unit and talk about upset but even having a warranty doesn't guarantee parts for replacement.

[@swainer8014]

. Up to 17 18 seer systems are still very simple. Inverters are a different story.

[@tomnietz4158]

Even more true with washing machines, Speed Queen are fully mechanical and last forever.

[@mrmaster8884]

ROI wiped when off warranty service is needed.. Salesmen leave that Tid Bit out.... Wonder Y...

[@dregenius]

@@tomnietz4158 Ok... but they work *worse* than modern front-load units. Look at any objective review comparison of Speed Queens - both their clunky kilowatt-guzzling, clothes-shredding TC and the hopelessly badly designed TR, and front-load machines from the likes of LG, Bosch, Electrolux, etc. just clean better. And that's ignoring the potential $10,000 savings in electricity you get when the machine spins at 1300-1600 rpm vs. the victorian-era spin speeds that speed queen seems incapable of improving.

[@karmendimas5274]

​@@dregenius you sound like you're full of jealousy and you're just trolling and you have a very extremely weak objection you need to try harder

[@scottwozniak3988]

Do inevitable electricity price increases change your recommendations?

[@ilc-nl3yy]

I'm probably going to upgrade to a 16 seer two stage unit. I'm in North Georgia, so it'll probably last longer than when I lived in Florida.

[@winduncan9818]

Thanks, I just ordered one today, Went from 15+ years old and completely broken to SEER 22. It's just a little studio condo in Thailand with a split type 12,300 btu. Daikin brand??? I guess it'll cost more than I'm currently paying with no AC haha.

[@mrwhoop9869]

ROI is good but not the only thing to consider. Cost difference in install between high and low seer. How much $ to run annually. You have to save enough to cover the cost. It all depends on how you run your system plus what region you live in. Even if the roi is 10 or 12 years its worth it. Your system should last longer than that. The comfort factor is a bonus in controlling humidity and normal a lot quieter operation. Also high efficiency a/c is typically matched with higher efficiency heating. A home is year round operation.

[@artics1031]

Guys PLEASE NOTE: SEER efficiency is not only on equipment, you can dramatically improve SEER rating by having proper ductwork installation and ofcourse where is your equipment located per region's, for example, California equipment are in the attic, Washington state are usually in crawl space or closets, and the best thing you can do For SEER efficiency is ZONING, and only on Veriable Modulating systems, not on single stage or Two-Stage, try bot to buy Veriable Modulating system with poor existing ductwork quality, the equipment will never actually run as Veriable Modulating performance, it will sense that the static is too low and it will fixate it self on certain Speed and it will never run at its 25% capacity with 1% increments. Bear in mind some houses are just not cut to have a Veriable Speed system and only single speed would work for comfort and reliability.

[@cmdredstrakerofshado1159]

Are you going to do a video on AC split systems they are all the rage here in Southern California from a garage to hole home solutions.

[@EricV485]

I just moved into a new construction 2600 sq ft in NC, they put a 14 seer carrier heat pump so it’s no more than 6 months old…It does the job heating and cooling, but I’m wondering if a multi speed, higher seer would cut down on energy consumption and noise or heat better etc.

[@arvbergstedt3303]

8-17-23. My old Ruud system 1995 still cools super well. Register air 50 degrees with setting at 75. Temps outside between 103 and 122 previous weeks. Cools well then rests for quite awhile. Very reasonable electric bills. If it breaks, will fix if possible. Better than new ones.

[@juniormoore3953]

CONSUMER Reports says if you can repair a unit for half the price of a new one that is the way to go...

[@privatename3621]

@@juniormoore3953 Agree. I've been repaired my 1998 Goodmans as needed for the past 25 years. Finally ready to retire the twins that have been running non-stop in S. FL, and which were pretty neglected in their early years. But so many people today are misinformed and believe the BS from the AC tech (aka "commissioned sales guy") to replace their unit as soon as its got barely any age on it, as if AC systems were disposable plastic cups. My systems were barely over 5 years old when AC techs already started talking to me about replacing them. It's a racket and people really need to do their own research. Most AC system have replaceable parts. Sometimes a leak is just a worn seal on an old Schrader valve. Sometimes its just a blown run capacitor. Or a tired fan motor that needs replacing. Or a worn contactor. No biggie. Parts can be ordered online and if you can't fix it with some research (KZbin is great), then you can pay an AC tech by the hour to handle the task.

[@chineseredneck1211]

Can you address heating/cooling cassette VRF heat pump for residential? I was considering a system for a new build cathedral ceiling great room with a wood burning fireplace (for aesthetics, not savings) and putting a cassette at the peak to recover heat at the top of the ceiling and move it to the bed rooms in a very efficient home.

[@k.lamareyev4418]

2017 My ac guy told me to not go past a 16seer. Bc the dual stage models needed more repairs than a single stage. He said it wasn't worth the price and maintenance. I had a 10seer when I had it replaced, It almost cut my power bill in 1/2!. I got a 16seer Goodman with 80%-85% gas furnace upgrade for $7800. After tax incentive I paid close to $6000. Well worth the upgrade. My neighbor bought my old unit for $500 for his rental property

[@SuperSushidog]

Your estimates assume the price of electricity remains constant. I can foresee the price of electricity skyrocketing in certain areas such as California since they are already short on power and want to do away with ICE vehicles putting a huge additional load on the grid. Living in a motorhome, mostly off grid, my choice is either solar (plus batteries) or $1/kwh electricity produced by running my generator. Plus my AC needs are small, as my motorhome is well insulated with dual pane windows, etc. and is only 280 sq ft. Earlier this year I replaced my old front AC with relatively efficient (by RV standards) 11.8 EER, 14,500 Btu one using a scroll compressor that I will use as a supplemental AC for use when it's very hot to augment a 3/4-ton, 38seer (EER 16.5) Blueridge mini split heat pump. This tiny heat pump will cost me under $2k vs $1k for another roof-top unit if I install it myself, (as I haven't found an AC installer yet who will touch an RV) and will provide 75-80% of my cooling and heating needs by itself. It also has a 15 HSPF to efficiently heat too. So, despite the extra $1k it will cost, it will instantly pay for itself up-front as it will save me about $1,800 in batteries and solar panels. This doesn't even take into consideration the weight savings and limited roof area of an RV precluding the use of a bigger solar system.

[@cast1070]

Do I buy now 2022 or wait to 2023 new coil design for Carrier?

[@czechmate6916]

So much common sense here but trying to convince some people of this is mind blowing 🤯

[@1stuncleslam]

But what if you bought a 4 zone mini split that is 21.5 seer for about $5000.00 and spent $1500.00 for the install? You spend less than installing a new 14 seer system and save 30% on electricity. You also get a zone system which might save even more. That looks like the winner to me.

[@3dFirefly]

I am also considering to replace our 26 year old Lenox with 4 zone Mini splits, few high static concealed duct units costs more but then I will be gaining zone control and it can work in lower outdoor temperature and don't need emergency heat coils.

[@thomasdeblat4208]

Another thing to think about is cost of repairs, much more expensive to replace a variable speed ECM blower motor vs your average 13 seer blower

[@atlasacrepair]

Thanks for commenting, that is very true, i'll probably make a video on this in the future

[@johngatsby1473]

You ain't lying. I love how quite they are, they come on silently and do a great job but they suck when they go out. I've got one that has gone out twice and the sucky part is that you can't service down to the component level in that ecm on the back of the motor. The mfg has epoxy sealed the components! I think I'm having a flow problem that is causing the thermistors to go out because it makes no sense that these things would keep going out.

[@picklerix6162]

Those fancy multi-speed systems cost a lot to repair due to expensive parts and the techs have to be trained to repair these systems. Also, a lot of installers are not properly trained to install high efficiency equipment. Just watch a few repair videos and you’ll see what I mean.

[@Michael-we9vp]

According to many AC techs Here in the Phoenix area the higher rated SEER units are a waste of money because of very low humidity in the desert. They all tell me Carrier-Bryant and Trane are the best.

[@woodymiller3895]

How much would you save by installing a soft start controller?

[@knollibe]

In California the cost per kw is now .55 cents from 4-9pm then .36 cents the rest of the time. Most savings calculators assume a much lower cost per kw such as .20 cents.

[@gerardocalimano8295]

I might consider an appropriate system for my almost 2,000 square feet house. What is your recommendation? Thanks

[@Darisiabgal7573]

Alot of times when they replace the A/c they also find that the post-evap ductwork needs replacing and is leaking badly, Leaky attic duckwork can cause humidity to be pulled from the windows, doors and through the walls. Replacing the ductwork with a new HVAC can lead to substantial savings if the ductwork is leaking.

[@DennisSchmitz]

Went straight from a 16 year old 9 SEER system to a brand new 29 SEER system. Huge savings incoming :D It's also like 10x quieter.

[@crobergecourtier]

What brand ?? Thanks and model

[@joemiller8371]

I buy the lessor brands of the big companies, up north I bought an aireflow exact same parts as a lennox and in Florida i bought a comfortmaker, same parts as a carrier

[@kdw75]

My father-in-law switched his 4 year old SEER 13 unit out for a SEER 16 unit. He is a penny pincher and thought it would save him. I thought it was crazy, but hadn't looked into it.

[@ila83]

Did it work ?

[@stretchone1]

If you have a 12 seer unit with original ductwork, it more than likely has leaks through out the entire system. So if it claims to be a 12 seer it really turns out to be less, 8-10 seer. When replacing with a new high seer equipment with properly sized ductwork and sealed connections you'll get a decent ROI. I agree on inverter equipment not paying itself off however it has the potential to last a lot longer than single or 2 stage equipment due to less wear and tear on the off and on cycles. If you are not verifying/improving the ductwork DO NOT go with a high seer equipment.

[@picklerix6162]

Good advice. I replaced my old supply plenum and properly sealed the ductwork myself. My electric bill dropped dramatically after installing the new equipment.

[@swainer8014]

leaks don't matter if they are in the envelope of the house. Leaks only matter if they duct work is in the attic or crawl space

[@stretchone1]

@@swainer8014 not sure what area you are from but here in Dallas-Fort Worth I would say 90% of ductwork is in the attic that is not spray foamed. I don’t agree that it wouldn’t matter. The temperature of the attic on a spray foam home is not the same than the living space. Depending on the leak rate you’ll save more by keeping condition air where it needs to be and not dumping air where it does not belong.

[@swainer8014]

@@stretchone1 Midwest here. Basements. Again attics and crawl spaces, make them air tight. Leaking in a basement, it is a waste of resources.

[@dougcox835]

The key thing to consider is the DIFFERENCE in price between one SEER rating and another versus the savings from the calculator. If the savings difference is $1000 between the two, then the cost difference had better be less than $1000 for example.

[@michaelyohe8766]

Can this be compared to thelife of system

[@HVACUncensored]

You offer high seer systems based off comfort not savings that would be the first problem. I do know sales guy say that but they’re wrong. Higher seer and multi stage ,and Inverter technology are once again for comfort. Help dehumidify in AC. Be able to handle the Sensible and Latent load. We can go into heat pumps as well. A lot more goes on into heat is the ductwork sized properly, enough return as far as negative and positive pressure. A lot of factors to weigh. We like to educate the customer and let them choose what’s best for them and their needs. Now SEER 2 is gonna be fun 😂.

[@rv10flyer84]

I have 20 seer Am Std hp. It’s vs is great for my solar system but it sux at pulling humidity out of the air.

[@HVACUncensored]

@@rv10flyer84 then it’s probably needs to set up properly bud cause that system can definitely handle dehumidification without a doubt as long as it’s sized correctly.

[@BIGMIKE816]

@@rv10flyer84 it’s not setup properly then. That variable speed system shouldn’t have ANY issue with humidity

[@BrianNC81]

Our 16 seer two speed XL16I upstairs is not as good at humidity control as our basic xr13 (13seer) downstairs. Also, we have a lot more issues with the 16seer condenser ECM fan motor while the single stage unit with PSC is super reliable. I've replaced the motor once on the 16seer and the ECM on the motor twice in 10 years (used parts from eBay and DIY saved me thousands). The basic singe stage unit only needed a capacitor over its 17 year life so far. Save yourself the hassle down the road and go with a single stage unit that has a PSC fan motor.

[@Steve-bm2zm]

Of course anytime somebody replaces a furnace or heat pump and says they saved a ton of money or surprisingly the utility bill was higher two other factors come and play higher utility cost especially in the past year or hotter or colder temperatures from last year

[@bobboscarato1313]

A predecessor of Reliant Energy used to do financing and also offered rebates on high efficiency systems. Utilities are not offering these benefits anymore unless you spend 25 thousand dollars or more on geothermal Heat Pumps.

[@atlasacrepair]

Thanks for commenting. It is a shame that utilities are starting to pull back on their rebate programs. We can still get rebates from CPS, Austin Energy and a few others, its not much, only around $100 a ton. But at some point they are going to quit offering rebates all together.

[@meanmrbrownsville]

A high SEER unit with leaky ductwork or poor insulation is of little use. Your "savings" goes through the cracks. My 1200 sq. ft apt in Brownsville, TX is well insulated and about 4 ft underground. My monthly bill, even with several built in charges is under $100 per month in one the nation's most humid, subtropical climates.

[@10pointoutdoors]

15-16 (Varible) seer is the best bang for your buck..from an ROI standpoint

[@donwilliams2206]

I have a 2600 sq ft house, the builder put in a 5 ton 13 seer. We live 10 miles off of the gulf in Texas. We went down to a 4 ton 15 seer heat pump, got the ducting correct and balance correct. My electric bill has not been over $140 since then. Power company has changed the meter 2 times. The best part is the humidity now stays around 50 percent. It is the dealer/installer that sizes and installs the unit that is the most important. Cool 76 day 72 night. Heat 70 day 68 night.

[@picklerix6162]

I updated to a Goodman 15 SEER system two years ago on a 2900 sq ft home. Our highest bill runs close to $150. The new equipment does a much better job of reducing the humidity.

[@krissimons1339]

I went from a 2.5 ton 10 seer to a 2.5 ton 19 seer (a Trane) when my old unit needed major work and it dropped my cooling costs by about 50% and I've also been able to keep the humidity down to 45-50% here in Orlando, FL. Not only does it cost less to run it just works better and is much quieter due to the the variable fan speeds. My local power provider also gave me a $700 credit toward my utilities for installing a more efficient unit, so I was more than halfway covered the additional cost of the higher seer unit.

[@richardsmith4187]

Great video and you really break it down well with the chart. I have a system which is 12 years old now and is out of warranty both parts and labor. I have had a few service calls in the past 2 years and the condition of the inside air handler coils are bad. Its only a matter of time and I will have a leak and then it will be time to replace everything as I would never want to put money in a system that old. I have researched for the past few months and really like the Daikin HVAC systems, what are your thoughts on Daikin ?

[@privatename3621]

Why would you replace your entire system just for a leak? You do realize sometimes a leak be from just a bad Shrader valve seal. Heck, even changing out an evap coil is a helluva lot less money by far than replacing an entire system. If your system is not at least 20 years old, you're probably wasting money swapping all of that out instead of a simple repair. AC systems should last min 20 years, or at least 15 if run all year long in the south, and even then longer with proper parts replacement.

[@s.s.4170]

This may sound like a silly question, but I'm 70 years old and must replace a 30 year old central air system asap. I'm in Colorado in an older but not well insulated house. I could, but since I most likely won't be in this house for 15 more years, what is the recommended seer rating for a decent return on my investment? I don't need to finance it, if that matters.

[@Ryarios]

On average, if I combine me electric bill and gas bill, they add up to about $150/ month. My house is 1100 sq foot. It’s hard for me to justify any system based on ROI.

[@SetitesTechAdventures]

Does that calculator assume increases on the proce of power over that 15 year window?

[@Joe.574]

Does sizing help you save money?

[@garypowell4981]

Our current Central Ac is 30 years old. We live in Pennsylvania. Current 10 seer. 3 ton inter-city. Looking to replace

[@fernandofernandez2677]

I generally recommend a 15 SEER depending on how MUCH they use the a/c, someone who sets their thermostat to 78 won't see the same type of monthly savings as someone who sets it to 72.

[@appleimacdude]

I find myself wondering how much repair costs vary amount lower EER air conditioners as well as mid and high EER air conditioners? That is worth a whole lot to me -

[@JKDJack]

mini splits bro.. or about any newer side discharge, are 18 seer at least for a ducted replacement for about 3-4k. 10k is ridiculous

[@gregsims5156]

There’s also how long you run a system. We run ac 8-9 months so it may be a higher savings.

[@rcinfla9017]

Problem with any standards method is the human (the manufacturer company in this case) will optimize to the standard. Similar issue to auto mileage rating on vehicles. Result depends on typical local conditions, for example, in Phoenix AZ , start by looking for an A/C with the largest condenser coil you can find. Need large condenser heat exchanger for 115 degrees F outside temps to keep compressor head pressure down. High humidity conditions takes a different optimization, requiring reduced air flow across a larger evaporator area. Problem is manufacturer will take the physics to the bank, optimizing to the SEER standard. For example, a larger condenser allows a lower power compressor to meet unit btu rating for SEER standards. Optimizing for high humidity has negative impact on SEER rating. Typical home btu requirements range from about 15% to 100% of A/C max rated btu's. Being efficient at all btu loading levels reduces your electric bill. This is where variable speed compressors and blowers have the advantage.

[@davidlarson5459]

Replaced my 22 year old 12 SEER Trane with a variable speed 18 SEER Trane iXV18 and I'm saving $1,000 annually.

[@coldfinger459sub0]

I can see the customer saving more money, when they had a 5 ton system that was grossly oversized when in fact, all they needed was a 3 ton system. They live in a high humidity area because it was oversized was short cycling, never removing the humidity.. so the customer was constantly turning it to a lower temperature in attempt to become comfortable on. Let’s say a Old 10 SEER unit FOR EXAMPLE. Then you come in and properly size the unit, properly charge the system, so it’s not overcharged or under charged, which was highly possible in the old 5 ton system, making it even more inefficient. With your new 3 ton system hopefully your guys properly set up the air flow. And because the old system was a 5 ton system, and its ducting was undersized to begin with.. You might have just gotten lucky and that undersize ducting for a 5 ton system is now the correct ducting size for a 3 ton system. And now that the 3 ton system has correct, charged, correct airflow, and correctly sized it runs longer on a more energy, efficient motor and thermally efficient system and removes more latent heat (humidity). So now the customer is more comfortable at a higher temperature and says thermostat at a higher temperature but now with lower humidity, therefore he has much lower energy bill. This is where everything works out perfect It’s always better and not that much of a risk to under size your system buy a half ton than what the manual may call for in your load calculations than it is to think you’re safe and oversize it.

[@TJ-22]

Well said. What are your thoughts on a unit that has short run times, such as 8 minutes, and the indoor humidity stays at 50-55%, even on hot, humid days, in the Gulf South. When the temperature reaches about 93° or above, then the unit runs for 20-45 minutes, sometimes longer.

[@coldfinger459sub0]

@@TJ-22 on the 93° day with a high humidity in afar Gulf S., Like Way down there at the tip of Florida. It would be nicer if that unit could run 100% of the time. Or at least an hour an hour and a half in between shut offs.. Eight minutes is pounding the motors in the motor windings often on to continuously . That’s way oversized.. This is where the right size coil and adjust the air flow to the proper comfort level come into play . More airflow, more sensible, heat, less latent removal Less air flow, more latent removal, less sensible removal . Have a thermostat that could set blower motor speed through the taps on the board for the different seasons . But right size would’ve been nice in the first place . Rick Simmons have some excellent material on this topic . Get your tickets for Brian orbs HVAC symposium this year in Florida . Me and my son go and we’re going to attend again this next year to . . It was amazing at Brian Orb’s symposium people from around the world were even there from South America or even Asia, Canada, Australia, and even the EU . It’s a Symposium were like mines like to meet and share knowledge and gain knowledge . It’s not like AHR, where there’s a lot of advertising and pushing a Products .

[@TJ-22]

@@coldfinger459sub0 The home has a Sensi thermostat, which has a tight temperature setting of 1°. I think the thermostat is designed to run the unit in short cycles to maintain optimal temperature. Maybe replacing the thermostat will increase the runtime and lower the humidity level a bit?

[@coldfinger459sub0]

@@TJ-22 I work around to Band-Aid a problem to make it work the best I can with what they have Sounds like a little more thought process could have been done in the beginning little bit more experimentation, and if the customer was willing to have the contractor to technician, the person designing the system to do six months or one year of data logging before they jump the gun and put down the money to put in a system Take energy monitoring data log how the system was running before what was the cycle times play with a few adjustments in over the course of several months to a year it’s nice if you have the winter time in the summertime in the high humidity and lower humidity all data log for year prior to spending so much money And then have somebody do a compromise, and do a Band-Aid

[@TJ-22]

@@coldfinger459sub0 The t-stat also has an “overcool to dehumidify” mode, that results in an approximate 20 minute run cycle time when the outdoor temperature is 78°. The system runs until either it reaches 2-3° below setpoint or until the desired humidity level is reached.

[@michaelholliday100]

I am located in central Ohio and have a 36 year old Arcoaire gas furnace and 3 Ton air conditioner. I have maintained it myself for its entire life. I replace the capacitors for the compressor fan, compressor and air handler fan every 5 years. I have also replaced the blower fan and and the compressor fan when they failed. I am going to assume that the air conditioner is probably a SEER 9 and the furnace was calculated by a friend at 84%. With the thermostat set to 74 degrees I get 55 degree air out of my vents. I know that they cannot last forever, what would your suggestion be?

[@spchips]

Should always disclaim that HVAC approaches and costs are extremely local. In the dominant cooling south at $0.10 electric inverter systems are a hard sell. But, at $0.30 in the northeast and mostly heating, it's not only sensible but the only way they work in heating. That said as others mentioned inverter systems work well at part load cooling and might allow you to avoid a dehumidifier.

[@gtdodgeviper]

So is a Daikin 18k btu 17 seer really good? I need it for a 600sqft insulated garage with double doors (9x8 ft)

[@markcollins457]

The ultra high seer ratings are not the sakes area I target I beleave there are other things that can save you money the seer rating is Eample: the evaporater & condenser seasonal energy efficiency rating. Insulation direct sunlight & ductwork design an application can have a large savings above and beyond equipment ratings. Hell a new window shaker does a great job if you leave the door closed.

[@imarichmultimillionaire5509]

Will you get a rebate on a 15seer system

[@james10739]

If you only have 1 or 2 rooms you are in or trying to keep real cool and are ok with a wall mounted unit you can get a mini dplit and if you you competent you can install yourself because you can get a high efficiency unit for much cheaper than $10,000

[@Pro1er]

$8,500?! Talk about sticker shock! I installed my A/C myself 30 years ago and all-in I spent around $1,200.