Cape Dory 26 Refit Tour

This is a partial refit and tour of a Cape Dory 26. We may have the boat come back for further work after its next shakedown cruise. Until now the owner has used the boat as a trailerable boat to cruise the Great Lakes in Summer and Gulf Coast in winter but hopes to crusie the Caribbean later this year.
We can be reached at atomvoyages.com where you can find articles on cruising and fitting out sailboats. If you have a classic sailboat and want to share your experiences or have questions on fitting out, consider joining the Plastic Classic Forum where I'm a forum moderator and answer questions: plasticclassic...

[@RussClarkRocks]

I love the upgrades you do on everyday average boats. Keep 'em coming!

[@MrBluoct]

Always enjoy the talents and details shared on this channel

[@GeorgeGraves]

Really enjoying your videos. If you ever think "The viewers don't want this much detail, I'll edit it out" - you'll be wrong. :)

[@Oscar_Yankee]

Always learning some techniques and picking up some good ideas from your work. Thanks for sharing.

[@laxmannate07]

Hard not to love a cape dory

[@MrRandyk2]

Very thorough video, and well thought out improvements to the design. Thank you for making and posting. Also, great to see a shot of the mighty Mac at the end!! My home sailing waters.

[@louisfbrooks]

Very interesting. A Cape Dory is high on my list of boats to buy, well any Alberg design around 30 feet, so I have been enjoying your videos.

[@deadbrokeracingchannel-2197]

Looking at buying a 26d for myself to sail the Caribbean, think this video sold me on it’s simplicity and rigidity … definitely going to go with the d model with the inboard westerbeake 10-2

[@MR-yp7mu]

The nice thing about boat with no inboard is that you don’t have to spend time to remove it, glass thru-hulls. There is no oil i the bilge, no smells, no noise. For me diesel inboard on such a small boat is an overkill.

[@mr.morgan5643]

Very nice work!!!

[@louisfbrooks]

Nice boat. I really like the Alberg designed boats.

[@rimasmeleshyus9486]

Cape Dori one of the best sailboat ⛵it's 100%

[@svsalacia6495]

Looks good

[@MR-yp7mu]

Nice little cruiser. I am looking for a trailer like this one for my sailboat.

[@NotYourEverydayTrav]

need more videos man :)

[@locutus8496]

Now that you've worked on a Cape Dory 26, can you say whether there is enough room between the transom and the rudder post to retrofit with a tilting outboard setup? It looks rather tight for tilting, and perhaps only a smaller motor would work for that, like a tankless 6 HP.

[@atomvoyager]

The motors I use for similar sized boats is the Tohatsu 6 SailPro and the closest I can tell so far is that it should just barely fit when tilted up. To confirm if it will fit, check that there is at least 27" between transom and rudderhead/tillerstrap at the horizontal height of where the motor would sit on its mounting board, which is 8" above hull at 15" aft of rudderhead. Sounds confusing but you could sketch it out to clarify. I'm scheduled to do this job on a Cape Dory 27 soon and it looks like that is an easier fit so you might consider getting a 27 for this modification. Or you could use a smaller motor like a 3.5HP with 20" long shaft, although that is underpowered for many situations and has a shorter shaft that doesn't work as well. Or an ePropulsion electric outboard.

[@samholmessailing]

1st class as always. Is that mast hinge something you purchased or fabricated? I was thinking about doing something similar on my cd28 while the mast is down. Would you recommend it on a 28ft boat?

[@atomvoyager]

We bought the Dwyer DH2150 available here for $75: store.sandiegomarine.com/products/dwyer-hinged-mast-plate-4x6-5-%7C401050.html I would guess it is marginally sized for a CD28 but could be used if your mast guy lines and gin pole were perfectly aligned to reduce stress on the hinge plates. Just yesterday I lowered Atom's mast using a heavier duty hinge system I fabricated myself. Besides wanting something stronger for my 35' mast I needed to have extension plates on the hinge so the mast raised off the deck several inches as it came down to clear the stepped coachroof of the Pearson Triton. The CD has a straight coach roof so that may not be an issue for you or you can place a teak block under the step for some clearance. I'll have a video uploaded in a week or two showing my mast raising system so you may want to check that out.

[@atomvoyager]

By the way, I've enjoyed your YT channel. If there's anything I can help you with or you want to stop for a visit in Brunswick, contact me through atomvoyages.com

[@davidboily2424]

Awesome job. Just curious, how long did all that work take?

[@atomvoyager]

Thanks. I have about 110-120 hours into it, working mostly alone with my wife assisting as needed on some jobs. There were many small jobs done also that I didn't have time in the video to cover.

[@davidboily2424]

@@atomvoyager BTW, after listening to your 3 previous books (twice) I am thoroughly enjoying the final book in the series. Just sad it’s almost over. Thanks!

[@tommack3383]

Hi. I would love to see details on the installation of the Dwyer mast step hinge that you put in. I have a CD26 and the hinge on order. Beautiful work! Thank you.

[@PeterMumford]

I'm wondering if you are planning any mods to the motor well? A well like this can drive you crazy by how fast the motor can grow weeds. I have a CD25, and after just one month on a mooring I had barnacles growing inside the exhaust vents of the propeller, as well as a lot of other junk. A 6H ultra long shaft motor is not fun to pull out of the well for frequent cleaning. I'm considering downsizing my motor to a 2.6H long shaft, just so I can pull it and stow it in the cockpit.

[@atomvoyager]

I also don't like a non-tilt well for the fouling reason you mentioned plus the added drag and well flooding issues. The CD26 lazarette is a little too tight for this mod unless we extended the center part of the transom to make it fit or had the tilted motor overhang the tiller slightly - both not great options. But the owner of this boat so far only keeps it in the water for a few weeks at a time and hasn't had any issues yet. In your case the smaller motor may be a good choice. I don't know about a 2.6 model but some motors come in 2.5 and 3.5HP versions and since they are the same overall size and weight it makes sense to go for the highest rated. Also, last I checked only the 3.5 has the 20" long shaft option which is the minimum useable length for reasonable performance. A 3.5 pushed my Pearson Triton 28 at 3.9 knots so I expect you'd get at least 4.2 in flat water with a clean bottom.

[@mkaplan99]

This is my boat. I keep it in the water for 2-4 months at a time, between trips. Before each trip I smear the lower unit of the outboard with petroleum jelly. It works well for keeping barnacles from adhering.

[@michaelpeters513]

Just started this modification. You can get the motor out of the water but not all the way up. There is some structural support for the back stay that is in the way. I went with caution and stayed a safe distance from it. You can see it through that inspection port but not fully until you cut away the liner. You will not be able to close the hatch fully with the motor up but it does not interfere with the tiller. I'm thinking of a solution to modify the lid by raising the height so it will close fully. My ultimate goal was to keep the lower unit out of the water while in the slip. I have a tohatsu 9.8 in there. I would note that there is a lot of creative thinking involved with this modification I've been thinking about it forever and would say that there is no perfect solution because the area is just a bit too small but it is better than it was before.

[@jackshort2033]

How did you remove the flooring where the head used to be? I have one of these and even though I've removed the bungs and screws it still seems to be glued in place (or something). I all because I'm going to have it hauled out so i can remove the seacock and glass over the holes in the hull. I would prefer to grind and patch from both sides. Would you bother making access from the inside, or just grind and laminate from the outside? What taper do you use? Thank you for any help. :)

[@atomvoyager]

I spoke to Jack on the phone and suggested he only taper the outside and just overlap fiberglass on the inside.

[@atomvoyager]

If you have further questions you can post them on the Plastic Classic Forum. I'm a moderator and answer questions there: plasticclassicforum.com/forum/

[@triton_6633]

Was the Lake Michigan, Mackinaw Bridge scenes shot after your refit?

[@atomvoyager]

Some of the jobs were done a year ago then the boat was sailed around the Great Lakes this past summer, where the bridge scene was shot, and then the owner brought the boat back a couple months ago for a few more jobs. For most boat owners with a boat that's new to them, it makes sense to do a few jobs, go sailing and see how things work out, get some fresh ideas of what's needed, then take care of those rather than try to do it all at once.

[@michaelpeters513]

What do you think would be involved with installing an outboard bracket on one of these so I can get the motor out of the water. I'm looking to change up the non tilting well setup with out doing anything to drastic. Any advice is appreciated. Thanks.

[@atomvoyager]

Outboard brackets on the transom are awkward to use and the motor is ugly and less functional hanging out there so I wouldn't do that. The existing non-tilt well design is at least handy to control the throttle and shifter and gives the motor some protection from waves. But it has other issues such as fouling and corrosion of the motor and drag when sailing. If you want to go with the adjustable bracket you could mount it on the centerline if no windvane self-steering is going there. You'd have to cut an access hole in the liner and seal it with a large deck access plate. I'd add backing plates of G10 fiberglass board or something similar. I'd use the highest lift bracket available. The Garhauer OB-125 is good. They don't list it in their online catalog but you can order over the phone. I think it's the same as this one from Catalina since they are made by Garhauer but the Catalina one costs much more: www.catalinadirect.com/shop-by-boat/capri-22/hull-deck/stern/motor-mounts/outboard-motor-mount-two-spring/ You'd need a throttle extension handle on the motor. Then maybe you could fit a removable cover plug over the motor shaft hole in the hull. I wouldn't glass it in though since you or a future owner may want to change it back. A loose fitting cover board would allow the hole to drain the cockpit footwell. If you want it permanently sealed maybe you could add some new drains out the transom with flap valves on the outlets. having said all this, the owner of this boat so far doesn't mind the issues of keeping the well as it is.

[@michaelpeters513]

@@atomvoyager I'm probably going to end up keeping it as is. I have a tohatsu 9.8 in there and it fits but just barely. It's not to heavy for me but it is awkward to get in and out. The boat is in saltwater most of the year and I'm trying to eliminate the hassle of putting it in and out. The drag is not much of a concern for me for this boat. The motor is 11 years old and has it's signs of corrosion on the lower unit (previous owner repaired it and kept it painted with bottom paint, seems to work ok). I'm thinking of getting something smaller like a 6hp when I need to. Thanks for your input.

[@MR-yp7mu]

Are the deck hardware fasteners hidden under fiberglass liner?

[@atomvoyager]

I don't recall any fasteners hidden under the overhead liner. The fasteners near the toe rail are accessed by reaching around the open flange of the liner where it meets the hull.

[@eckhardkoehler3013]

What product do you use to gasket the door on the chain locker? I am looking to use something on my lazarette doors to make them water tight in case is capsizing my daysailer.

[@atomvoyager]

I used 3/16" x 3/4" closed cell foam weather-stripping that comes in rolls at Home Depot or online. Even though it has an adhesive back I always use 3m black Super Weatherstrip adhesive to attach or it will peel off eventually.

[@tmack_agingintoawesome]

Is that a custom made trailer for the CD28? Do you store the trailer on that or do you lift it off? Thanks.

[@tmack_agingintoawesome]

I meant - do you store the CD on the trailer, or lift it off?

[@atomvoyager]

​@@tmack_agingintoawesome The trailer is made by Sail Trailers in Columbus, GA and I've purchased several similar trailers from them, the most recent one a few months ago: sailtrailers.com/ The owner of this boat uses a travel lift for launching. It can be done but the problems with trying to launch a boat this size on a ramp is you need a float-off type trailer with keel guide boards, a tongue extension to get the trailer deep enough into the water (and not all ramps are suitable), there is corrosion from saltwater particularly on the brakes.

[@tommack3383]

Thanks for the info!

[@jampasritalon4180]

Have you ever raised the cabin roof to add inches of headroom? I admire smaller cruisers like this one but at 6'2" it is rough finding one with enough headroom.

[@atomvoyager]

It could be done but I haven't done it and it would require a lot more work than I'd want to get into. A more practical alternative is to lower the cabin sole as I did on the video below to get 6'4" headroom on a Tripp 29. You lose some width of the sole as you lower it and may not be doable on some boats but there are many boats where this is an option: kzbin.info/www/bejne/h5mnoJmog7qVbJY

[@sailingeden9866]

I enjoy that you are very technically accurate in your verbiage; are you an engineer? You sound like one...

[@atomvoyager]

Not an engineer although I did work as a youth at my father's engineering company while going to trade school. Then apprenticed at boatyards and later worked for Hans Christian Yachts as production inspector and then production manager at their Asian factories.

[@cliffordlee1166]

Thank you for this informative video. Looking at CD outboard model, does the rudder has a hull thru hole? Meaning does it have a hole that could cause water seepage of any kind into the haul.

[@atomvoyager]

I assume the factory made a hole in the hull to pass the rudder shaft thru and then glassed a fiberglass tube over it between the hull and cockpit footwell. That is a fairly common construction technique and I've never seen one leak. This one has been strengthened further by our added bulkhead.

[@cliffordlee1166]

@@atomvoyager thank for your info. I'm avoiding onboard engine due to the prop shaft. Prefer a holeless haul.

[@atomvoyager]

@@cliffordlee1166 The only chance of this type rudder shaft leaking is if the rudder were to come off its shoe by getting hit hard on the side causing a crack in the shaft tube joint which is unlikely with a keel hung rudder. As a further insurance against this, on my own boat the tube is sealed within a watertight locker. Or you could just add some extra glass inside where the shaft tube meets the hull.

[@cliffordlee1166]

@@atomvoyager thank you. Was looking at least maintenance sailboat to own without any holes in the haul and may stay months without marina or any support berthing. Not many sailboat in my region(Singapore) and places I want to go. Malaysia, Thailand and Indonesia. Was thinking of a swing keel Catalina but it seems like I need to trailer it to maintain the swing keel every year.

[@boathousejoed9005]

O.k.,subscribed.

[@trailsandsails2722]

Love learning from your refit videos as I am doing a good bit myself. I noticed at the end the self steering windvane. Which one is that and is the only mounting at the upper part of the transom?

[@atomvoyager]

It's a Windpilot Pacific Light and yes it is mounted to the upper transom with four bolts only. Here's the link to the installation: kzbin.info/www/bejne/kIK8i2B3ndOjj8k

[@trailsandsails2722]

@@atomvoyager thanks much!!

[@michaelpeters513]

Can you please share where you got the hinged mast step from. I also have a CD26 and I want to do this. Did you have to get new standing rigging or was the change minimal? Thanks

[@atomvoyager]

We bought the Dwyer DH2150 available here: store.sandiegomarine.com/products/dwyer-hinged-mast-plate-4x6-5-%7C401050.html It was a similar height to the original base so the standing rigging still fit.

[@darrellhanks6459]

I am curious about the composting toilet set up. I have a small sailboat that I would like to put in a simple composting toilet. Did you make the toilet or is it from a manufacturer?

[@atomvoyager]

It's a $20 toilet bucket similar to the Luggable Loo: www.amazon.com/Reliance-Products-Luggable-Portable-Gallon/dp/B000FIAPXO/ref=sr_1_1? Then we put in a vent hose and deck vent with fan to help dry it and eliminate odors. The vent shroud and fan are from: airheadtoilet.com/product/extra-fan-shroud-right-angle/ This is a simpler, lightweight cheap alternative to the C-head composting toilet but doesn't have a way to stir the pot, so to speak, or a urine separator. The owner has a separate pee bottle so the bucket waste has a chance to dry out for less mess and odor. By the way, after a deposit you cover it with a cupful of something like coconut choir, sawdust or horse bedding pellets: www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/product/tractor-supply-pine-pellet-stall-bedding-40-lb

[@darrellhanks6459]

@@atomvoyager thank you! This is just the info I needed.

[@sailingeden9866]

A composting toilet, or a dry toilet? What most people refer to as a composting toilet usually has nothing to do with actually making compost. Most just poop into an absorbent and toss it into the trash - that's not composting.

[@atomvoyager]

That's true and is why I now call them a dry toilet since they don't use water for flushing. My most recent and improved DIY toilet video acknowledges this point: kzbin.info/www/bejne/gHTHdIN8j92Ljbs

[@seangfoster1974]

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