Attempting to Repair Atari's Very Complex 1982 POLE POSITION PCB - Three CPU's? THREE CPUS!!!

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[@williamwallace9427]

So I’m sitting here thinking... why has this become one of my favorite KZbin channels?? Here’s why i love this channel.. no matter how big the issue is... Ron tackles it in a methodical and relaxed way while taking it one step at a time with a positive attitude. Good lesson on how to tackle all life’s challenges. Great channel my friend!

[@LyonsArcade]

Thank you William I'm glad you get what we're trying to do, i'm trying to promote positivity and let's all have fun or why else would be we be playing around with games? We're supposed to enjoy it and not take it so seriously, this should be where we don't have to talk politics or the virus or whatever and just enjoy these games for what they were designed for : entertainment. I'm basically trying to be like Bob Ross and the Woodwright's shop, with a little bit of mr. Rogers thrown in. I'm not as talented as they are but I'm having as much fun as they were.

[@-abacchus]

Hey Ron, hard to believe it's almost there, and mainly due to a 25cent Zener Diode! I buy these in packs and use them to limit voltage kickbacks and eliminate higher voltages to 5v. The more of your videos I watch, the better understanding I get on these old boards, I might start offering a repair service on this side of the pond! Great stuff bud!

[@LyonsArcade]

Go for it man! I'm in the same boat, I understand just a littttttle bit more everytime I mess with one. Most of them make perfect sense once you start looking at them, you go "Oh, I see why they did that...." We need more people saving these machines.

[@firewalker1372]

Man, I remember a restaurant near me that had the sit down version of this game. Brings back some great memories. Thank you for keeping these machines alive. I enjoy the pinball repairs. But these machines are much more exciting to me. I guess it’s because I was a bigger fan of these kind of games more then I was with pinball machines.

[@scottgm321]

12 year old me was waiting for that woman to say it. “Prepare to Qualify.” I laughed so hard when you said “I’m sure you’ll do better on your’s”. 😂 Thanks for the video

[@LyonsArcade]

The people who correct me usually don't watch the whole video anyways, they probably missed that part, lol

[@duffysarcade]

Great video Ronnie! I've worked on my Pole Position electronics for at least a month or two. Fixed the monitor. New board edge connectors, PS rebuilds, big blue, fuse blocks, sense mod, repaired burned up edge connector on main PCB. Found a few corroded sockets with the tabs broken when I pulled out the chips on the main PCB. Changed a bunch of those sockets. Cleaned all chip legs. The game now only boots to a screen with colored blocks and some characters. Can't enter test menu. I'm very interested to see how your troubleshooting goes, and hopefully it sends me in a new direction in the quest to fix mine.

[@DakalaShade]

It's amazing to see just how much technology has changed over the years. What was once a giant board of discrete logic chips, CPUs, ROMs, and a handful of custom chips can now be emulated by a RaspberryPi. Still, saving the actual cabinets and the original boards, that's always good to see. I'm, sadly, too young to remember these games in the arcades, but as a 90's kid (born in the ass-end of '91), I do remember a handful of sit-down racing cabinets the local mall used to have. They're fun, but they gulp quarters, which I suppose was always the purpose. I hate to sound older than I am, but kids these days don't know what they've missed out on. I know, I know, there's still arcade cabinets out there and the occasional arcade still running, but there's just something about playing against friends in 2-player cabinets, playing against other people in linked racing cabinets, picking up one of those chunky light guns and trying your best at a shooting game, or even the simple practice of standing quietly off to the side and waiting your turn. Now, 90% of these games can be emulated at home, and with a fairly inexpensive setup, you've got a general-purpose arcade box that won't eat a week's allowance in 10 minutes and leave you begging for more.

[@LyonsArcade]

If you don't get it the hard way you don't appreciate it :) When recorded music started the only way to hear it was to buy a floor model phonograph, then go to a record store and buy the record which was 2 songs, take it home, and it used 1 stylus per record. Then you could buy LP's with several songs on them, and the stylus didn't have to be replaced everytime. Now you can listen to anything ever recorded and 1000's of new songs a year for free at anytime and the music industry is the worst it's ever been

[@antonnym214]

These are always fun to watch. You do great work. Don't worry what the others think; the results speak for themselves. All good wishes.

[@techboywi]

Pole Position was one of my favs back in the day!! I probably spent a small fortune worth of quarters on this in the arcade back in the day.. Can't wait for part 3!

[@LyonsArcade]

See you tomorrow Bob!

[@Crippledsasquash]

"Joe what's wrong with it" "Its broke" lol 👍

[@LYHTSPD]

I work as a Controls Engineer in machine automation, and our favorite response to that question is "BDDS". Broke and Don't Do.... Stuff.

[@LyonsArcade]

I'm gonna have him start shouting that, lol

[@fred_derf]

@@LYHTSPD I was in IT and the two most common problems were *ID-10-T,* and *PEBKAC* errors. If you don't know what those are, the first one you should be able to figure out just by looking at the spelling, the second stands for _Problem Exists Between Keyboard And Chair._

[@kapioskapiopoylos7338]

@@LYHTSPD i can only imagine that this being your favourite is ironic. the ammount of times i failed to get any info from the operators and all they would have to do would be tighten a screw here or there is driving me insane. and every time i try hard but it's easier to extract info out of a KGB spy than them. -Eh machine is br0ke. -so what does it do? -it's not doing... -yes but does it do anything or totaly dead or any lights? -it won't do the work. -any error code, any noise, does it stop under any condition? -yes, its kaput. FML thanks for all that great info, i will ask the brick wall next time

[@LYHTSPD]

@@kapioskapiopoylos7338 Well, the programmers mainly used that as a joke amongst ourselves. We would get customers that would call us with about the same wording. "I don't know, it just stopped working." Makes me want to do murders.

[@mikekell9889]

Good job Ron. Your experience with pesky boards has proven itself again. Good job on Hook too.

[@LyonsArcade]

It's almost there.... thanks for watching Mike!

[@wdavem]

Fun videos! I like how atari's look when they crash, LOL! I think I played this console the first time when I was 3 years old and im 42 now! I didn't know this one was so complicated. Sometimes I fix equipment with mid 80's z80 control boards. These fiberglass boards seem to blacken and traces peel differently then, say, 90's or 2000's PCB's. But some 80's fiberglass boards are very different then others. A Z80 board caught me off guard recently when a light wire brushing peeled back 2 very small traces. I've done this work many times so it really surprised me. It's cleaned up and working well now though!

[@classicarcaderepairs4818]

Completely agree when it comes to battery damage.. I usually will remove everything from the affected area and wet the PCB with some water and then take a fine grit paper to the area... then clean and repopulate... not much else you can do... the crap must go

[@LyonsArcade]

Yup nothing wrong with getting aggressive with it :) Thanks for watching Classic Arcade Repairs!!!

[@rickfess148]

I used Tarn-x on industrial automation computer chips that had oxidized pins back in the day. Worked great. Quick soak in tarn-x rinse with distilled water. Chips looked like brand new for another 20 years.

[@randycarter2001]

CR2 is a sacrificial protection diode. The normal failure mode is to short when to much voltage is present. The diode shorting out is supposed to either crowbar the power supply down or blow a fuse. Under normal conditions CR2 has no power flowing.

[@LyonsArcade]

Thank you Randy isn't that what I said in the video? See you on the next one!

[@jasonudall8614]

The position in circuit for cr2. Would be in the era called CROWBAR DIODE...Expected to crow bar the 5V rail against over voltage... ..we salute you and thank you for your service.

[@flightofapaullo72]

Well done brother! Such a classic! 👍 I'm gonna try and get a hold of you regarding some questions about a Ring King pcb I just purchased. When you have time of coarse.

[@LyonsArcade]

Sounds good SillySausage

[@MegaSpambox]

Testing times ahead eh lol cheers Ron good luck :)

[@dablakh0l193]

One of the biggest problems with the PCBs of the early years is that in order to handle greater current they tinned the bare copper on the board and then put soldermask over the tinned copper. This is what causes the soldermask to bubble up in areas and it breaks open and moisture and corrosion start to eat away at the traces. Nowadays, they plate the copper to a greater thickness and then put the soldermask over the bare copper. It sticks to the copper and only the end points of the traces are uncovered. This prevents moisture and corrosion from destroying the traces. When excessive current is needed, the leave the copper bare in that area and tin just that area. And they don't put soldermask over those areas. That way nothing gets trapped under. As for removing corrosion on bad areas, I have had luck using old style pen erasers. They have just enough abrasive to bite through the corrosion. You can also use vinegar to neutralize the alkaline. You can also use a watered down mixture of muriatic acid and then rinse it off with water and use a hair dryer to dry the water off.

[@mdouglaswray]

This looks like a toughie - when something has a rep for difficult service, adding AGE just makes things harder. GOOD LUCK!

[@Astinsan]

Did you see Jason’s Arcade built raspberry pi replacement boards for these beasts? They emulate the arcade cabinets original board.

[@markkirby4865]

Yes!! The sense mod made mine bulletproof, so far!!😜

[@Axess-sv8nq]

" The steering wheel is working!..... The Shark is not working..... The Shark is now working. But, the boat is sinking!" (Jaws 1975).

[@melanatedmusings6147]

Although this is a Pole Position game repair series, you mentioned in video 1 that Taito games are very "challenging" to repair. You mentioned one game something like Operation Wolf? But Ron have you ever repaired Taito's "Frontline" arcade game? It never makes best of arcade game lists but it's in my top ten. What a fun game!

[@derofromdown-under2832]

I have to agree with you on the "sense" mods. Why do they have to complicate things (Atari)? Great fix overall Ron. Pity it didn't work on first go... WELL DONE!!! 10/10

[@LyonsArcade]

Thank you Dero we'll see next time!

[@fred_derf]

The sense circuit would keep a machine in the field working longer, particularly if it was in a location with unreliable power (e.g. one day 100 volts, the next 110, the next 95). Or at least it did until it burned the connectors up.

[@tonytavary3388]

You gotta hook it when you're going after that corrosion! :)

[@LyonsArcade]

HOOK IT BOY now whats' dat supposa mean?

[@DonnyHooterHoot]

People do throw really dirty boards in a dishwasher and let 'er rip! Great vid!

[@DankNoodles420]

you should try getting one of them little electric Dremel with a sanding tip on it. That would improve you corrosion repair speed 2+ fold. Just a thought.

[@roiberadcnoic5862]

Sorry I've not been watching Joe I've just been really busy at work but am back and am watching now 😃

[@LyonsArcade]

Thanks for watching Roiberad!

[@peter486]

Perfect for my Lasagna in the Owen :) 47 min of Joy Thank you as always Lads!!

[@LyonsArcade]

Thanks Peter, enjoy your Lasagna :)

[@kapioskapiopoylos7338]

you dont have to reaply the green coating aka solder mask/solder resist, all you got to do is tin the copper with a decent quality solder. also i happened to repair a lot of tractor pcbs. when mud gets into them, trust me fiber glass isn't going to help any more than mildly using a wet cotton bud. sanding paper or very fine files are necessary.

[@808v1]

gawd...not-Joe, that is laborious work!

[@LyonsArcade]

We're getting there :)

[@JendaLinda]

Coating the bare traces is not a bad idea. You may coat them with thin layer of solder. The corrosion makes the traces thinner and the solder would thicken the traces a little. It also protects the copper. And you can still easily solder to the traces if needed.

[@scrag2841]

Love the videos! On the video card just above the oscillator it looked a chip had corrosion on the legs. I could be wrong but it may be worth checking.

[@justjoe942]

Vinegar is an amazing substance. Soak the rustiest of hand-tools for three days in vinegar and they come out looking as though they've just been manufactured. Enough vinegar to cover them. Go back once a day to skim the scum from the surface and swish the tool around a bit. Three or four days later the rust is completely gone; rinse, dry, and marvel at your new old tool.

[@memyopinionsche6610]

Never was a racing game fan. But always will find time to play Pole position.

[@CastleMisha]

Thank you joe for another great video♥️😎🍕

[@joshsorheim]

New t shirt, picture of the famous file and just the words “get on it”

[@memyopinionsche6610]

And I did a little research on the worst designed pinball machines and Atari always comes up. Not only for their weird flipper placement. But instead of having the circuit boards in the head box. They're placed in the bottom of the main cabinet. So whatever is falling from the play fields will land on the circuit boards. And either break them or short circuiting them.

[@michaelturner4457]

Yeh, I read about Atari's pinballs that had the game boards in the bottom instead of the back-box, and screws, nuts, and springs etc. would fall from the playfield and blow up the boards. Unlike Williams, Bally, Midway, Stern.

[@naytch2003]

Another Ronnie video..I remember John from Johns Arcade had one..his friend Adam was building a Pole Position clone at one time..

[@LyonsArcade]

I rewatched John's video when I was checking the ground mods and power mods on this board... we talk about it in here somewhere....

[@naytch2003]

@@LyonsArcade oh ok.. trying to learn electronics myself, starting to get the idea of schematics Ronnie but yeah, takes me awhile to learn stuff sometimes

[@ItsaRomethingeveryday]

So close, yet not quite, Liked

[@101fng]

Dude, Wiha is the Snap-On of Germany. Expensive tools, but worth it.

[@vhm14u2c]

Almost every pole pos I seen when it was powered off had massive burn in , can see where it had spinning letters ‘game over’

[@kevtris]

I like to use canned air to blow the water/alcohol out from under the chips and sockets after cleaning. and I will use a very low oven (60C max) and put the board in there for 5-10 minutes. that will thoroughly dry it out, water or alcohol. Another trick is to bang the PCB edge against a table top (straight down, squarely on the pcb edge) which will force the water out. it doesn't have to be terribly forceful, but just enough to dislodge the water. Best results are obtained when the pins are perpendicular to the edge, so the water can go straight out between the pins.

[@lightmagick]

A little acid paste flux works really well to cut through that corrosion once you expose it with the fiberglass pen, using a file or sandpaper may be quicker and easier but you are really eating away at the trace.

[@jussikuusela7345]

The designer of the board could have made flat contact patches that cover the whole area of the adjacent interconnected contacts. Even if it didn't improve the contact in the connector, it woud have give some more skin for the current to flow through and form a wee bit less hot spots. About the ground grid needing fortification, not sure, but this might have something to do with the chips operating at a radio frequency. In certain cases, this could at least theoretically cause the ground for a certain component to appear slightly lifted, of its power input to be lowered. Also components that have different trace lengths could fall out of sync - like I wrote, at least in theory. Although, I admit that this is unlikely to become remarkable under 10 MHz. And, adding jumper wires carelessly could also just as thoretically cause ground loops that would resonate at some frequencies and possibly cause more problems than they solve. Mr. Carlson explained a similar phenomenon where a length of antenna cable at a certain frequency would appear as a short circuit when the other end is open, and as open circuit when the other end is shorted. IIRC that length would be a quarter wave, factoring in the speed at which the signal traverses the cable. In old analogue video processing, at a frequency under 10 MHz, there was a known effect where locally synced video sources, if wired to a mixing point through different cable lenghts, would have the horizontal alignment of the combined picture components affected by the cable lengths.

[@yardarm5]

Keep it going for George

[@johnbos4637]

Those chips that go black are because the manufacturer put a silver coating on the legs. The silver gets messed up over time and goes black and the coating eventually flakes off. Fujitsu and Texas Instruments did that with their chips and you can see that a lot on the small PROMs that are usually used for color.

[@MxArgent]

Ah, Pole Position! Interesting one...And one of the only Z8000 machines I can name. Really curious processor - never got popular for a couple of reasons. I think the Olivetti M20 used it too?

[@yorgle]

I had a PP machine for a couple years, but one of the sprite rendering custom chips was scrogged, so it wouldn't render your car properly, but all other cars and sounds worked great, and the cab was in good condition. I got it for $80, and I had a hard time giving it away when I was ready to let it go. ;D Plus, it's kinda boring after playing it a few times. heh. I loved it, but was done with it. :}

[@jeffreymurdock8366]

A little rubbing alcohol will remove the vinegar and also break down somewhat the alkaline residue. You may be able to make a mixture of alcohol and baking soda to neutralize the alkaline residue in place of vinegar

[@quintonquill]

Heads to barn comes back with horse brush " I'll get that dang on corrosion off!" Folks don't know wisdom when they hear it.

[@EsotericArctos]

There are some instances where very fine grit sandpaper is better than the Fibreglass pen. Sometimes even a file. People need to just look at each situation and make their own judgement. You've been doing this a long time so you know what you are doing and how to judge how much force is needed. I have not quite understood the "coating" the copper thing. A lot of old (talking 60's) circuit boards never had the copper traces coated. Sure, the copper will go dull and get a surface layer of oxide, but copper doesn't "rust" like iron does. It just gets a coating. As long as you are working in a dry environment, copper doesn't need coating. Copper wires are proof of that.

[@LyonsArcade]

That's how my thinking is on it too Brendan, thank you.... hopefully next video we'll get this thing up and running!!! Thanks for watching man, see you on the next one!

[@michaelturner4457]

I remember the speech on this... "PREPARE TO QUALIFY!"

[@CNKayutube]

Omg pole position attrack mode would make me take my life! Almost as bad as air hockey. PP Aquarium you say?? Sounds wonderful !!

[@CNKayutube]

Glad to see you tried the fiberglass eraser, pace (soldering co) make abrasive bullets for pcb work and dremel those are my favorites

[@jasn2031]

My pinball machine has three wires that go into the machine -The protective ground is green . The neutral is white, the hot (live or active) single phase wires are black , When you are talking about ground wires its seems that you have only have two wires a positive and the negative and the negative is replaced by the ground??? 16:48-16:60

[@LyonsArcade]

We're talking about DC voltages that are past the DC power supply, so in DC you don't have a neutral and a hot, those are AC terms... in DC you have a ground and a positive (in this case).

[@demofilm]

i was wondering where the magical place is , where you can also watch your videos

[@codyaimes4354]

So I had a Sh*t car(Chevy Daewoo cobalt) and It was having some electrical problems. I added beefier gage wire at the all the grounding point, resolved the issues.

[@viscountalpha]

Hopefully it's just bad memory. Oh! It was just a bad power! For something this frustrating, theres a small led that shows voltage, which is something i'd recommend.

[@LyonsArcade]

Hopefully!

[@naytch2003]

What Jerry Reed was to guitars, Ronnie is to pinballs and arcade machines

[@johnyetman3179]

Ughhh! Pole position! Had many run ins with these!

[@yuppiehi]

If you think about it, in today's computers, we're running a lot of CPUs. Back in the 1980s, we called them CPUs. These days, they call them "cores." So an Intel i7 is running seven cores, or you can think of it as seven CPUs, of course I'm extremely over-simplifying it. Again, back in the 1980s, the only way to run at peak performance is to run multiple CPUs, and then just use a oscillator to sync the CPUs together so they're working off the same sheet of music. Even on my Apple II, I could run a Z80 processor card, and still use the built-in 6502 to run the peripherals like video and audio, and the Z80 just ran the OS. The most awesome board of the 1980s has to be the Commodore Amiga 1000, which had all those custom chips like the Fat Agnes and such. They were in fact all CPUs, and that allowed for the Amiga to do all those sprites and such.

[@johnyetman3179]

While machine is in test mode the lady should say "prepare to pull your hair out!"

[@750kv8]

03:31 - Bubbly traces! 14:49 - Looks like a miniature crowbar. 41:56 - That must be a display test.

[@jasn2031]

So electricity flows into the board though the connector pins, goes through the components and out through the connector pins. But at 29:19 the pink jumper bypasses the pins and goes to the spade. How does the negative flow leave the spade?

[@LyonsArcade]

One of the spades is the test point for the 5 volts, one is the test point for the ground. so they're attached to 5 and ground, if you hook a wire there you are connected to ground. The way we wired it up we left the original wiring connected too, so the pins still work as designed, we just added a couple jumpers to add more wires so another path for power and ground.

[@rlgrlg-oh6cc]

2N6057 is an NPN darlington transistor, so it's pretty different from a 2N3055. Probably not the best choice for a replacement.

[@yuppiehi]

One can never ever criticize for over-grounding. These things - especially those with the built-in monitor in the cabinet - can really give off a ton of RF. Probably a lot of the shielding and such were because of UL and such.

[@antonnym214]

If I had to hazard a guess with very little knowledge and less information, I'd say it's one of the chips on the video board. Best of luck!

[@Slide100]

Have you given any thought to an ultrasonic cleaner? That would go a long way to removing any remaining corrosion (or vinegar 🙂)

[@flipperdoktornab]

Don't extend that fibres too long on the fiber brush and it WILL eat away on the copper👍😂 Works very good for me.

[@matiasd.7755]

43:08 That machine probably has some watchdog circuit. It checks that the main program writes some value into it often enough to know that it has not crushed. If the program crashes, then it won't tell the watchdog that it is still alive and the watchdog resets the whole system so the customers keep on putting coins into it...

[@LyonsArcade]

I think it does you are correct! Thank you for watching Matias!

[@matiasd.7755]

@@LyonsArcade Subscribed!

[@Robert-Wilson]

To protect the trace after you remove the corrosion. You could use clear fingernail polish to cover it.

[@Ivo--]

Get you a electronic load Ronnie, what fer testing on them power supplies under load.

[@LyonsArcade]

Why would I need that when I have the cabinet here that I can plug the board into ?

[@tubejay1]

Your amazon US links don't work. At least not for me. Love the videos!

[@LyonsArcade]

You have to turn off your adblocker to see them, thanks for watching!

[@xTonusx]

Kinda off topic, Can you use the super lube grease on the High Voltage Diode going to a monitor?

[@LyonsArcade]

Yes you can, it's just dielectric grease, works great. Thanks for watching!

[@johnbos4637]

You can tell it booted ok because after the garbage test pattern it makes a bang sound. No bang, so yup it's still broke! ;-)

[@dirtydon8661]

Instructions for the fiberglass brush. Don’t have so much fiberglass sticking out. It shouldn’t bend when using it. That breaks the strands. Just let a little bit out and it will be 100 times more aggressive!!

[@LyonsArcade]

I've done that, it's not very good for the level of corrosion i'm addressing, sand paper and files work much better, 100 times better. Thanks for watching don!

[@HotOneRecordz]

Where would once get the new custom chips? I've had to swap chips with a Galaga board because I couldn't find any replacements. Thanks

[@PRRGG1]

Simple green cleaner and a tooth brush on the battery goo. The simple green acts like vinegar and neutralizes the battery corrosion.

[@LyonsArcade]

If you put Vinegar on it, it acts like Vinegar and neutralizes the battery corrosion too! Thanks for watching PRRGG1

[@douro20]

It's odd that they didn't use a Z8000 as the main CPU, but only as secondary CPUs. One of the Z8000s is for I/O and the other is for sound. From what I understand all of the Namco custom chips are I/O chips.

[@LyonsArcade]

The Z80 handles the sound, it's even labeled "sound microprocessor" in the schematics, maybe I don't show that till the next video though..... Also the Namco Customs aren't all I/O chips, we'll get into more of that in the next video too Thanks for watching!

[@PlumGurly]

Yeah, in 1982, they used digitized recordings of speech. They just used libraries of words, not allophones.

[@johnbos4637]

The fiberglass pen does work even with really bad corrosion. I've been repairing PCBs for over 20 years and I never had to use sandpaper or a file on a PCB. But yeah it's faster if time is a thing. All you need to do is set the fiber part out about 1mm and then put some elbow grease into it and it comes right off. If you keep going the fiberglass pen can easily go right through the copper trace if you want it to. The main issue with those pens is they are dangerous if you breathe in the dust or touch the fibers that comes off and get them stuck in your finger or a toe. They are clear and nearly impossible to see and a real bitch to get out of a toe (don't ask me how I know that hehe!). As for adding a conformal coating over a bare copper trace, that's just noobs talking. I have repaired thousands of PCBs and never once used a conformal coating and the games are still working fine as-is. Plus adding a coating often looks worse than the bare trace. Some of the noob repairs on youtube with conformal coating added look really rough hehe! It does have uses, but mainly for surface-mounted work where traces are tight and you want to put a chip on the PCB and don't want traces being accidentally bridged under a smd chip, especially when working with BGA chips. For battery damage I normally remove all the parts in that area, clean up and then fit the parts back replacing common parts with new where necessary.

[@stphinkle]

I think the accelerator values are not correct. CB to A2 seems not correct. Wonder if it should be something like 00 to FF or something like that. It looks like the ADC chip is not working properly.

[@meinkamph5327]

I've seen many times in different situations where more voltage is needed. The ground must heat up to much

[@louistournas120]

If the ground heats up too much, then perhaps you can soldier some extra conductors to spread the current across multiple conductors.

[@pl5624]

That lifter is the same as the ones they sent with the old desktop PC chip booster/doublers they sold back in the day.my 66 was Supposibly boosted to 99 with it....ok

[@LyonsArcade]

Back when Silicon Valley was just telling harmless lies about speed and performance, wonder what they're lying about now :) ?

[@stevenmoffitt1643]

Why not use a copper strip, and then cover with solder to protect the copper?

[@LyonsArcade]

ok

[@johnnypatterson7512]

Hi lads. For the corrosion do you ever use Deoxit?

[@cojones8518]

Did you try blowing on the connector?😁

[@LyonsArcade]

That only works on the Nintendo cabinets :)

[@senilyDeluxe]

It wants to play Night Driver but the headlight's broke!

[@Arcadehollywood]

Okay we need an FPGA replacement for Pole Position

[@Stefan_Payne]

if the Board is the Issue, couldn't those Systems be fixed with a new Motherboard?? With how cheap PCB Design has become and them being very simple PCB designs, shouldn't it be too hard to source a replacement PCB? (though replacing the chips might require a hot plate and some hot air)

[@LyonsArcade]

It seems in concept like it would be easy enough but there are several issues with that... first of all, the original board is covered in custom chips that Namco created, so it's taken quite awhile just to figure out how those even work and what they do to replicate them. Then the boards have two separate edge connectors that hook up to the inputs and outputs, and some of those inputs are analog. So yes in theory you can just make another board but how do you make it emulate the exact same gameplay with all of those custom chips, and how to you layout the board so that it can still plug into the cabinet's existing wiring? Someone made a board that emulates the game but it can't use the original analog gas pedal. So you have to replace the board and the gas pedal, that's not quite right either... so they're still working on an acceptable replacement.

[@VicGreenBitcoin]

Question how to fix the Reticon SAD1024 problem on pinball machines? (Reticon SAD1024 = a old analog ic)

[@LyonsArcade]

I've never seen that ic or problem, sorry!

[@lascheque]

My guess is either voltage a little too low or some faulty IC socket.

[@memyopinionsche6610]

Did Pole position 2 have the same issues as the original game?

[@andymouse]

Getting stuck in there Ron, it's RAM (wild guess)....cheers.

[@simonjandrell5897]

you gotta find another 2v's or 3v's plus from somewhere???

[@LyonsArcade]

We're missing something for sure

[@simonjandrell5897]

@@LyonsArcade Pole Position top Game.. and the Music just so damn good

[@fredalmonte5719]

When working with electricity it's always safe to use 1 hand.

[@LyonsArcade]

Unless you touch two voltages at once with your one hand!

[@robertbox5399]

Looks like the brains die when the graphics kick in - hence the text gibberish before it possibly resets. Too low voltage on the 5V rail? Transients due to bad caps? I'd put a scope on the 5V.

[@maxxmich]

the traces could be bad under the plating... that why they have jumpers

[@maxxmich]

they alsoake sprays to spray on And disolve the corroded trace

[@SpearM3064]

I will say this for Atari: The ground plane on that board is seriously over-engineered. That's not a bad thing, though. I'm on your side when it comes to the sense mod. In this particular situation, I don't give a rat's ass about "originality"; what if, at some point in the future, the sense circuit burns up something that _can't_ be replaced? I do a lot of retro-computing (old 80s computers), and some components (such as the 6581 sound chip on the Commodore 64) are already as rare as hen's teeth, and the cost of replacing it is skyrocketing. So, given the choice, I'd much rather install the sense mod and have the game simply not boot, instead of possibly burning something out and maybe even starting a fire inside the cabinet.

[@memadmax69]

How much board space you need for this? Yes.