Attention 2009-2014 Ford F-150 Owners! Check Your 6R80 Transmission Cooler Lines Before They Blow!

[@ADVANCEDLEVELAUTO]

When I worked at Nissan as a tech, we had a lot of problems with the Armada blowing the transmission cooler hoses at the radiator. Thanks for the info!

[@packoutjunkie160]

I hear ya on that one. Have a 2010 armada however has a brand new radiator. I had the trans cooler in the radiator bypassed in the old one. I hope I don’t regret hooking it back up factory to the replacement one.

[@fredsalter1915]

Yo! Eric!!!

[@zachcoldwell7978]

Not just the Armada. Nissan pink death was on the Xterra too.

[@ADVANCEDLEVELAUTO]

@@fredsalter1915 Good to see you here!

[@adriannewman1322]

Chevy had that problem too

[@MarioDallaRiva]

Totally feel for the owner! Problems that can be fixed with money are at least better than the problems that cannot… At least the job will be done right 💪🏼

[@scottwisniewski2791]

I just had mine go on my 2013 F150. LUCKILY I didn't drive far after feeling the engine slowing. Replaced all lines and transmission survived. And I have 117,345 miles on it.

[@jeremyanderson950]

This video saved my transmission. 2013 F150 5.0. After watching it I checked my lines and the crimp part actually split! So it was seeping out. Dropped in new filter, all new lines and new lines and small coil up front. Thanks again..

[@rss426nc]

Just gives me more to worry about. I have 2010 5.4L 6R80 with 400,000 miles. Just changed the original water pump at 395,000 miles. Still on original starter, alternator and timing chain.

[@anthonylawhorn324]

Randal I have 373,569 on my 2010. I too am in the worry phase. I have a few trans lines showing some age along with a few other things. I just completed the whole timing job a few months ago myself.

[@rss426nc]

@@anthonylawhorn324 How much did that set you back?

[@amoncopeland6747]

Both of yall chill on the worrying and enjoy what you have.. . I have 08 mid yr with 195. Doing timing now

[@jaceflamminio5290]

Dude I just changed my water pump on a 2014 5.0 165,000 KM!

[@ryancoleman1]

My 14 5.0 coyote original water pump shit the bed also 2 weeks ago with 96k on it

[@CarlosRodriguez-hb3vq]

When I was in high school, a rubber transmission cooler line on my ‘68 Malibu burst in the parking lot after school. After the torque converter emptied, the car stopped, blocking the gate, in a pool of ATF. Very embarrassing for a 17 year old. Later I patched the line with generic hose from NAPA, added ATF, and drove it for many more years.

[@MrBrandonh98]

same exact thing happened to my 2013 at about 115k miles. I got lucky and saw a couple drops on the driveway. Crawled under and literally just touched that line and it broke right off. I feel very lucky now that I caught it when I did.

[@bobbbobb4663]

I question how much flex exists in those hoses at the bend radius of the rubber hose. If anything, the hose does a really great job of placing a lot of vibration onto the weakest spot of the crimp terminal.

[@jonathankenton7182]

Aircraft mechanic here. I couldn’t tell if the aluminum and steel are contacting each other but if they are, this is likely a classic case of dissimilar metals corrosion. I also do as much of my own auto repair as possible and your vids have been a tremendous help. Keep them coming and take care!

[@robertborchert932]

Bingo! Notice the rust on one side, and the aluminum on the other? The failure is right there at the transition. Dissimilar metals corrosion. The aluminum will happily sacrifice itself. This is accelerated by the presence of ions, road salt and water being the key. This video is a wonderful illustration of why these lines must be serviced and replaced before fatigue wins the day.

[@andrewgordon235]

@@robertborchert932 You would think people who have been making cars for over 100 years wouldn't make such a rookie mistake but they did. Why is ford's build quality so inconsistent? Some years they make great cars and some years they make junk no rhyme or reason I guess?

[@robertborchert932]

@@andrewgordon235 The truth is simpler than this. Vendors. Nothing wrong with the design of the hose or coupling, nor with the cooler. Parts made to specification, but not knowing the other end of the connection. Different vendors making each half. There's a cost factor of course. An old school mechanic can tell you what will happen with dissimilar metals, we deal with this nightmare regularly. In reality, these trucks march on through some really shitty real world conditions. Seen it over the decades, as long as it lasts through the warranty period, there's a laissez faire attitude. And yes, this isn't isolated to Ford, it's a worldwide issue, sadly.

[@RSH592]

Sounds as though the lines should be changed every 60,000 Mike's before metal fatigue sets in. This will allow one to stay ahead of the dissimilar metal issue.

[@davidmowat4056]

I just had this just happen on my 2015 F150. Line broke in exactly the same spot. I quickly realized what happened and shut it down. I installed new lines, changed the filter and refilled with new mercron fluid. So far the transmission has been good.

[@FordTechMakuloco]

Good on you!

[@dirtberger4533]

How many miles on your truck, I have 65k on my 2010. Wondering if I should replace lines soon.

[@jerryfrederick6610]

You are living right my friend. Glad for you.

[@tr4u5mp90]

@@dirtberger4533 That engine is basically new. My 2010 has 200K and running strong. All the bad reputation 5.4 get i love mine. Very reliable.

[@dirtberger4533]

@@tr4u5mp90 I got lucky finding a low mileage truck, had it a couple years know. Great Thank you for the info. I love this truck it's been great.

[@gordie4059]

Just rebuilt the timing on my Dads 2015 f-150 Ecoboost. You’re videos were extremely detailed and helpful! Thank you so much. I’ve been a tech for 10+ years now and am learning something new everyday it seems! Trans has been good for him this far with almost 260,000km up here in Canada. Did a complete service at 200K. Used a premium filter & Amsoil fluid. Will be rechecking these lines ASAP!!!

[@vicentebchacon]

Hello, I have a Ford F150 year 5.0 2011 that is giving me the following error: On the gearbox screen it appears as a little bubble because while in motion it changes to D,N,P,1 and loses pressure when accelerating. I took it to a mechanic and he told me that it was the transmission control module, but now watching this video I have doubts that these lines are the cause of the failure.

[@billanders3809]

Great video and very timely. My 2013 Expedition was in your shop at 100K for recommended service interval. I just hit 145K and noticed this issue as well as having a P0720 error resulting in no speedometer and transmission shifting irregularities. The lead frame plate issue was surprisingly covered by the 10yr

[@bryancondrey6457]

Aluminum...bend it once, bend it twice, throw it away. Based on what you could show in the images, it looks like some fatigue took hold in the quick connect. I suspect it will occur again in the same place unless something changes. I'm sure the quick connect was implemented for the assembly line, not for service. It might be time time for some racing inspired Teflon lined stainless hose with A/N fittings bypassing the entire hard lines from cooler to transmission. Kudos on the double screw clamps per end of your bypass line.

[@aninnymoose720]

until some shmuck comes along and cross threads the thing... modern cars kinda suck. not our fault.. fack...

[@--_DJ_--]

That is a nice idea, although more expensive than you really need, I would just do standard rubber line. The biggest problem would be the oddball fitting they have at the tranny, would require some kind of adapter to get to an AN line, though maybe that already exists.

[@calholli]

Yeah-- Those quick connects should be hard mounted to a bracket, just like the Steel line's are hard mounted. That way it only leaves the RUBBER to take the flex, as it should be. Those rubber lines are just too big and they dont' flex very well-- so it's transferring all the movement into the weakest link-- which is that nipple inside the quick connect. If you hard mount those connections at the crimp--- then nothing can move but the rubber. It's another part (being a custom bracket), but it's obviously needed.

[@noneblank6170]

@@--_DJ_-- They already sell plates with an8 fittings

[@--_DJ_--]

@@noneblank6170 Ya, that is what I figured. With everyone and their brother having a CNC mill these days, that kind of thing isn't so hard to come by anymore.

[@barryward8617]

Thanks for this Brian A video showing how to change this line set would be a great help to a lot of people

[@JP-ub2ri]

Thanks for keeping us informed. You are my go to guy for my 2010 F150 platinum. This same problem happened to me a few weeks ago, but mine was leaking where it bolts to the side of the transmission. They originally told me that the problem was where the wiring harness goes through the transmission ( the o-ring). Still had a puddle under the truck the next morning. Had to diagnose myself. Thanks again for all you do.

[@BlueOvals24]

I seriously hope this guy didn't inform you to inspect old rubber parts on a vehicle, that should be common knowledge.

[@kevinpost4633]

@@BlueOvals24 The problem is not an old rubber part. It is an aluminum fitting which snaps off. Mine failed this week. This exact problem, exactly the same place. Luckily, I stopped before my transmission bled to death.

[@BlueOvals24]

@@kevinpost4633 It still isn't as big of a problem as OP made it out to be.

[@stephenmoxley3004]

Great video, Brian. I know you're busy, so thanks for taking the time to inform us of this problem. If I had one of these, I'd replace those lines before they break! I have a 2015 Mustang with this trans., so I'll have to check and make sure it doesn't have this type of line on it. As always, keep up the great work.

[@infotechsailor]

Makuloco.. So what can I do to fix this before my trans blows? Did you give us the part number?

[@BrandonWest87]

@@infotechsailorGo to fordparts or rock auto. You can get them at auto parts stores too. Edit: Im guessing you’re an IT.

[@jimcraychee835]

Seems like the retaining clip to keep the disconnect from coming apart is actually creating a stress point right where the thing is breaking. Got to be a simple DYI way to create a strain relief for that spot that is snapping.

[@ansv3340]

yes there is a simple fix )) cut the damn connector off, and slide that rubber house over the cooler tube, clamp it with the metal clamp better use 2 clamps , ))

[@thegreatpiginthesky3904]

​@@ansv3340 that's what I was thinking of doing lmao

[@mytriton54]

THIS IS WHY I subscribed to this channel!!! Never even heard of this issue and I've had 3 of these 5.4 vehicles and am about to buy a fourth. Thank you!!!

[@peterjohnston1224]

Took your advice and replaced the coolant lines AND the lines to the heat exchanger. Sectioned the coolant lines and found 30 - 50% wall thickness lost through corrosion! There was some leakage at the cooling-line connectors as well. Total cost - less than $200 with tax. Just saved myself $9,000.

[@cxhort]

You just saved me big bucks!! After viewing this video I checked and found my 2013 F150 leaking bad.

[@audiophileman7047]

I have a 2011 F-150 with 149K miles on it. Recently I changed the lead frame out per your recommendation. Now I have this to deal with. I'm going to get those lines replaced ASAP. Thank you very much for this heads up, sir. It's the reason I've subscribed to your channel. 👍👍👍

[@abec7892]

Hello, I also have a 2011 F-150. What is this lead frame you speak of? I try to do as much preventive maintenance as I can but I’m not sure what you are talking about. Thanks

[@--_DJ_--]

@@abec7892 I believe it is the internal electrical connections in the tranny pan. Google Lead frame F150, comes right up. I know that round connector is prone to leaking, I don't know why he suggested changing it though, missed that video.

[@audiophileman7047]

@@abec7892 He covers it in the first few minutes of this video: kzbin.info/www/bejne/an_KZHuAmd6spa8. He also shows you how to do the replacement if you're so inclined in the rest of the video. The Lead Frame can be hard to get, but go on-line and you can get it. My transmission mechanic also recommended changing the solenoids on mine, but I decided to just replace the parts as described in the video, since I drive it like a granny and have never pulled a trailer or hauled heavy loads very often. Good luck.

[@jamram9924]

Much cheaper than replacing the transmission 🤑

[@audiophileman7047]

@@jamram9924 I'm so glad that he told us about this problem. I'm going to be traveling in the mountains, and I would not want one of these lines to blow at 7,000 feet.

[@Chuck88vert]

Did ford upgrade the new lines or is it the same junk lines. Someone should make a upgraded line set. I bet someone will with all the failures. Great video

[@Agent10361]

I drive a 2013 Ford Taurus (ex police car) and I had one my transmission cooler and one of the lines start leaking pretty bad. I was able to stop the car and shut it off fairly quick, before the transmission was permanently damaged. I’m thankful it was only $800 for the cooler and the lines and an hour of labor!

[@ThePhotographyHobbyist]

Good tip. Just checked my 2014 with 155,000 miles, sits in my gravel driveway when not driving, almost no rust on those hoses and it looks really good overall. I hit them with some Fluid Film just for the heck of it (prevent rust on the steel lines).

[@chieft3357]

Thanks much. I have a 2012 5L F-150 I service myself and any news like you just released is something I want to know about. Keep up the good work.

[@toddwilmot4436]

Thank you so much. I checked my 2012 F150 by AT cooling line clamps and discovered both plastic clip "clamps" have stress cracks running across the bottom half where the hose is secured. This is obviously an age issue on the clip where the plastic is getting brittle from age and heat cycles. I will be going to Ford to get new clamps which I now need. In the meantime I cleaned the shell of the clamp with brake cleaner and applied JB WELD to strengthen the clamp at the stress crack until it is replaced. YOU REALLY have found a big issue that many trucks will be having. Need a better clip made out of metal. Well Done. Love your channel.

[@martyw2199]

Thank you for the post. I’ll go and replace the lines preventatively during the next transmission fluid change instead of waiting.

[@robertstaniszewski223]

Thanks Brian for all the videos you do for us, you literally save our ass. Just did mine today 92,000 on 2014 with 5.0. My part number for the main tube assy was CL3Z-7R081-A.I refilled new lines and cooler with a little less than 1 quart mercon lv. Part was tagged built in 2021. Bob

[@ryancoleman1]

I have same exact truck and engine. Were your lines bad and needed to be changed? I'm going to check mine tomorrow morning myself now. Got me worried lol.. also I have same exact mileage in mine

[@robertstaniszewski223]

@@ryancoleman1 they looked ok, but I have not cut the ends off to check. I don’t want to take the chance driving on freeway and having it fail.

[@OneMHz]

Almost want to see what happens to those rubber hoses under high pressure. Maybe they are trying to straighten hard enough to just flex the connection a little at a time.

[@Sheeeeeeeeeeeeiiitt]

I believe such occurred on my power steering hose/crimp began leaking on my 09 king ranch.

[@sassankarai550]

I believe the upgraded part number is Cooler Pipe - Ford (AL3Z-7R081-E) vs older AL3Z-7R081-D

[@sabinabrozynski9215]

I had this problem happen to my 2013 F150 2 years ago. It happened with 150K on the truck so a perfect example of this failure. A quick repair cost me $900 but the trans didn't last much longer so I sourced a good low mileage used trans and had it swapped in for an additional $1500. Except for this issue the truck has been trouble free and still runs well. This is something I'll be looking at to prevent future failures.

[@calholli]

If you just make a bracket and hard mount those connectors at the "crimp so that nothing can move--- then the only that left to flex is the rubber line. You can use the bolts that are there mounting the steel lines from underneath. A drill, a welder and a couple of U-bolts, or clamps to hold them from moving. You could probably even use heavy duty zip ties, if you just fab a bracket to stick out there next to those quick connects so that you can hard mount them.

[@tylertrotter2141]

Thanks for looking out for us f-150 owners

[@Adventureswithmike1]

Same thing happened to my 2013 F150I noticed a little drip when the truck was running and when I ran my hand across the line it snapped in my hand shooting fluid everywhere.. I quick ran and shut it off manage to get. The line caught every connected to just loop it off to drive home... And I was surprised to find out I lost 3 qt of transmission fluid in 10 seconds.... This is why I bought all new lines From the dealer all the way to the trans cooler ever placed everything so I would never have a problem..

[@Derek-xr3uq]

Thanks for this info. I think I will just bypass /eliminate those quick connects and jumpers preemptively.

[@Retadin]

Great something else I need to check into. I wonder if there is some kind of aftermarket solution to avoid this.

[@torinobob]

Thanks for this video. I just bought a '13 with a Coyote with 182,000km. First thing after watching this, I booked it into a local Ford performance shop to service the transmission and replace the lines.

[@bigphillyed]

It is a common leak point, in fact I have a video of the leak point. This is a very very common issue. It usually gives you a sign its ready to go. Look for oil spots on the driveway.

[@tommys7235]

Is there anything we can do to help avoid it breaking besides replacing?

[@cobra7250]

If I had one of these trucks could I be proactive and replace a quick connect? There are other ways to connect without being quick connect. Thanks I like your videos

[@tundras4ever552]

Quick connects are always going to be an issue . Cannot stand them. Poor owner has a 6k bill because of a poorly built part. Pretty damn sad.

[@raider762]

Old school hose clamps on a hose are usually better.

[@jamram9924]

Great to see you once again Brian. Hope you enjoyed your time away with family. Thanks for all you do for your fans. God bless my brother!

[@Cyclonejustin]

I had this happen to me in spring of 2017 on a 2012 F150 with under 50,000 miles. Luckily it happened at slow speed in my neighborhood and stopped right when it happened so it didn't trash the transmission. Ford would not cover the cooler lines under warranty as they said it was not covered by the power train warranty. Guess I should have gone until the transmission melted!

[@abec7892]

What do you recommend we do to prevent this? Change the lines I assume?

[@Quest4Unknown]

Yup gonna switch my hoses out soon. Thank you! 2010 4.6 3V lifted 3” 35” tires 83k original miles bought her at 20k miles used and I use her as my hauler and dump runs etc living on 7 acres in rural Sierra Nevadas mountains and commute for work in a fuel efficient car. Love my 150! Will be having this done along with the Forscan needed to help with the auto braking when on turns in downhill..

[@matthewgarrison5248]

FordTechMakuloco always spot on with common issues and recommended fixes. Do the different angles of the cooler lines into the aux cooler possibly make the issue less problematic on the F150's with the aux cooler?

[@michiganman845]

You've saved me so much money over the years. Love your channels and your attention to detail. Thank you.

[@jesusperez-eh6dz]

I can vouch for this. I had this exact thing happen to my 2013 F150 at about 120k miles. Luckily for me I was pulling into a parking lot when it happened to make a scheduled stop, and thats when I noticed the MASSIVE leak. I just left the truck there overnight and had the tow truck get it in the morning, and since I had only driven about 200 yards at about 10 MPH; no further damage was done. The scary thing is; it didn't throw any codes or warnings.

[@kanitdechkhum1690]

did you have to replace the transmission or were you able to save it . this just happend to me

[@BlueOvals24]

@@kanitdechkhum1690 I don't think he did because he caught it before he drove it very long. If you just found a puddle under your truck but haven't driven it, all you should need is that new line.

[@genehejhal8117]

2010 F-150,107k mi. Trans slipped a couple times while I was taking off. Next sm amount of fluid on driveway. Drove 10,mi to repair shop. Replaced as ll the lines. 550 dollar's

[@ansv3340]

@@kanitdechkhum1690 cut the damn thing off, and put house over the coolant tube, , use 2-3 metal band clamps, and you are good to go for the rest if you life. .. Older truvcks did not have any stupid connectors, but rubber house that slide over the metal tube and tighten with the clamps. .. whenever i would get a ford and see this joint I would just cut it off and convert to old school simple and reliable connector.

[@ansv3340]

@@genehejhal8117 why replace faulty line with new expensive faulty line again ))? why not just cut off the connector and use house of tube and 2 metal band clamps))) Old school fix is more reliable .

[@kidlolek]

Thanks!

[@higbeedoug]

Not doubting the metallurgy issue but we all know that as rubber ages it becomes more rigid and brittle. That being the case the vibration these hoses were intended to quell can no longer be accommodated by a dry/brittle hose and essentially transmits its now non-damping factor to the aluminum connector now doing a task it was never intended. Like tires & wipers, rubber components have a limited lifespan of their own and should be taken into consideration during routine maintenance.

[@anthonyesposito9251]

Of all the replies that I read yours is the one that explains why. I thank you for your explanation.

[@--_DJ_--]

I have worked on plenty of those lines, I have never found even broken ones to have the rubber seem much different than new line. These trucks are not that old.

[@dan4653]

Aluminum fatigue fails. Period. Eventually it will happen. On top of that, you have a large change in size of the aluminum, so potentially more stress. Those quick disconnects need to be made from steel... Now I have to check the '14 mustang...

[@billgator2005]

you have a great channel. all business and info, tips, etc are helpful to us ford owners. i have 2016 f150 5.0 xlt. 88+ k miles. purchased new. until now the trans has been no problem at all. good shifts, no shudder, no clunks,etc. just a good working trans. recently, about two months ago, the trans temp shot up 10 full degrees C from what it has been running since new, even in hottest summer temps. it was always around 85- 86 C. out of nowhere it shot up to 96 C in air temp of maybe 25-26 C. no codes no lights. took it to the dealer thinking i was just mising something on the scan tool, but they said everything was in spec, nothing wrong. no slip, fluid topped up, engine temp good, etc. so i take it home and am nervous about it since it still seems high to me. 2 weeks later we go for a day trip of around 300 km in air temp of about 27-28 C. starting out it climbed to 88-89 C. then levelled off 86-87 C. everything seemed to go back to normal. so all good and i am relieved. have driven several times since and no problem, tran is same as new. today i go out for groceries. it's 22 C and still ok. but when the store the temp goes to 93-94 C out of nowhere. by the time i arrive home 20 km away its hovering 89-90 C. any idea WTF is going on that causes this. aside: i have tow pack so factory tran oil cooler and the related valve block on the front cross member that interacts with the cabin heater lines through a heater something or other solenoid. solenoid says no fault and opens/ closes with scanner. dealer says instru panel temp gauges correlate with sensor ouputs. in other words the idiot gauges are displaying correctly. my first thought was my thermostat was failing. second thought was the valve block on the cross member. i thought my engine temp was a bit high. somewhere 199 -212F+ if i remember correctly. would need to confirm that. i have forgetten the exact values. no leaks, rad and cooler clean. shutters open in park when AC turned on. but stay closed otherwise. i find that is strange. arriving home today they were closed after i parked with engine running. also, when new, high speed fans would blast at times when parked with engine running. they no longer do that. high speed fan never comes on only low speed. high speed works through scanner bi dir control. help!!! the last thing i want to do is burn up my trans because a dealer cannot diagnose and says it's ok as is. yes "FORD TECHS MAKE ME LOCO"!

[@raychow3598]

Had this same thing happen. Trans temp normally stays around 90c. This summer on a 28-30C day, it ran up to 99.. normal city driving. Not towing anything Did you find out what was wrong ?

[@laveritesurlestemoinsdejeh8522]

I've seen that happen several times at our shop here in Montreal. I suspect it's worse in northern areas because of the extreme temperature cycles in the winter (very cold to relatively hot in a short time, and vice versa).

[@brianhoefer7148]

Thank you FTM for this video. My 2014 only has 59,000 miles but I live on the Oregon Coast and occasionally hit the sand and beach. Having to be towed off the sand is a heavy duty bummer drag. I will swap parts immediately.

[@stephenbeard9882]

I don’t own a Ford anymore and never will again, but I love these videos!

[@loydguzior6723]

Hey Brian, please post a video of you performing the replacement of the transmission cooling lines on the F150 when you have the opportunity. Thanks.

[@mwaynem]

I have an 09 thanks for the info I'll definitely be looking at changing the lines out. I'm due for a trans service anyway so it's a good time to do it.

[@OldManGarage]

Mine broke in that exact same spot on my raptor. luckily I was able to pull over very quick and got the truck towed home, ordered a new cooler line, Installed it and I've driven it for 2 years since then and it's been fine. I Also installed the larger superduty for more cooling.

[@OldManGarage]

Also I recently noticed the short line that connects to the radiator was weeping oil so I changed it out as well. I think these cooler lines are just not made of very good quality.

[@russianrsx]

How many miles on your raptor when it happen?

[@RideOp74]

Unless I knew for sure it was indeed a metallurgy issue that had been corrected, I would be ditching the quick disconnects if it were my truck and going a different, more reliable route with the repair.

[@jimcraychee835]

I picked up the parts and gonna do this job soon, trying to keep my 09 alive for another 5 years or so.

[@xeutoniumnyborg1192]

Thanks for posting this, I'm going to do a quick visual inspection on my 2012 FX4 and see where it's at from a corrosion standpoint. I may just go ahead and replace it as a preemptive step given the age and mileage on the truck. Replacement looks like it's pretty straightforward.

[@jerryfrederick6610]

Mine leaked a while before it broke. I was blown away when I went to pop it apart and it broke with no effort. Repaired it with rubber line and hose clamps. 1960 era tech.

[@mandersen7416]

@@jerryfrederick6610 That's a great idea, thanks. Did you just use 1/2" ID rubber hose or were able to source a pre-shaped version???

[@--_DJ_--]

@@mandersen7416 I have eliminated a few of them on our older trucks in the fleet. It has been a while, and they are all gone now but I am pretty sure I used a hose barb in the rubber that heads to (or from) the trans and ran rubber to the cooler. I didn't need to find any fancy pre bent hoses.

[@--_DJ_--]

On a 2012 I would say you are on borrowed time with those lines. Our 2012 broke there a couple years ago with less than 150k km on it, heavy salt area though, but the aluminum tends to do fairly well compared to the steel as far as corrosion goes.

[@mandersen7416]

@@--_DJ_-- thank you 🙏

[@DC_PRL]

Thank you for another great tip. My f150 is from 2003 and both cooler lines were leaking/rusted. Replaced them my self. Trans shop did not tell me about it when I went for service. Most people don't even know what they are, just drive until they blow out.

[@Roudter]

Wow...That seems so unjust and insulting (if that makes sense) to break like that so cleanly and with such devastating consequences. You're awesome for putting up the alert...Thanks.

[@--_DJ_--]

That line has been a problem since 2012 (ish) I can't remember when they changed them exactly.

[@BlueOvals24]

It's an aging vehicle with old rubber parts, not really that insulting when you think about it.

[@--_DJ_--]

@@BlueOvals24 A leaky line is one thing, a 1/2 line wide open with no warning is another.

[@BlueOvals24]

@@--_DJ_-- Don't know what universe you live in, but there is not a single sensor in existence that can tell you when a line is cracking. Don't know what you were expecting here, Ford should stick a sensor on every line/hose so you know immediately when your lack of general maintenance is killing your vehicle?

[@--_DJ_--]

@@BlueOvals24 You could detect that leak with a sensor easily, not that I would expect one to be in the cooler system. Flow sensors do exist ya know, and so do pressure sensors. It isn't general maintenance to replace a line that isn't leaking or heavily corroded. Those lines go from perfectly serviceable (sometimes a slight weep) to completely sheared off with little to no warning to the driver. I have years of experience working on a fleet of trucks with these lines. I am guessing you have no firsthand knowledge whatsoever. I am not sure why you think being a jackass in the comment section is helpful, especially when you are blaming (in a separate comment) rubber for aluminum shearing off. All you are doing is proving how little you know about the problem.

[@deerslayer30o63]

Had this happen to my 13 eco f150 here in canada. 150k km’s. Luckily noticed the smoke behind my truck from oil hitting the exhaust and then the wrnech icon showed. Towed to dealer they said i lost 6L of fluid so luckily caught it in time. $550 repair in canada which included all new lines,6 L of fluid, 2 hours labour. Thought was cheaper then a trans so wasn’t complaining lol

[@JohnSmith-bq1sj]

Beautiful close ups! So the quick connects on the new lines are stronger, or has a same chance to break again?

[@paulsosa1872]

Yes has the same chance of breaking again. I just cut the quick connects off put some barb to barb & some extra hose problem solved

[@joeydomino6567]

There has to be an upgrade to this as @PaulSosa states, I wouldn't run the same thing unless there was a redesign.

[@jeffflowers729]

@@paulsosa1872 that's what i'm thinking. When would you ever need to "quick connect" anyway?

[@billsimpson604]

@@jeffflowers729 Great question. Maybe it is to make it easier to assemble at the factory, or they think a connector like that is less likely to come loose, until it fails that is.

[@chrism9322]

The quick connects are for when you pull the cab from the frame for work.

[@benh554]

I've got a 2014 f150 Eco boost with 128k miles and a remanned engine after 98,875 miles cause the factory engine threw a rod. had a small shifting scare with my truck last week and it hasn't returned since parking the vehicle for 10 minutes and driving home, but definitely going to keep an eye on this. looks easy enough for a diy-er like myself to change out

[@jeffcarroll3831]

Happen to have a 2014 with that Trans, I'll definitely be keeping an eye out for this, great information as always 👍

[@--_DJ_--]

There is no warning, no seeps or drips, they are good until they are a wide open 1/2 inch line. Honestly I would just change them, I have had two in the fleet survive them breaking off, but I consider those flukes more than anything. I forget what year the first one was, I want to say 2010, the second one was a 2012 and it happened with less than 150k km on the odometer, broke 2 years ago. I would say you are on borrowed time with those lines.

[@jeffcarroll3831]

Only 70k for mileage on my 14, so I'm assuming they're OK so far, but I'll definitely check em out

[@--_DJ_--]

@@jeffcarroll3831 I would for sure have a look, I just don't think you will see anything. There are ways to remove that section of line if you are a bit handy (or cheap like me). I did a few on the older trucks at work, but they have all left the fleet at this point so how I went about it is a bit foggy. I think I used a hose barb-barb connector in the existing rubber on the long lines and ran rubber from the long lines to the cooler. They are not too expensive from the dealer though, at least not as expensive as I had thought. GM bends you over hard for lines like that from my experience, Ford seems to be more reasonable, though I do get trade price there so that is a big saving.

[@georgeburns7251]

@@jeffcarroll3831 .

[@jimr3179]

@@--_DJ_-- Exactly like you said there is no warning.If you have these just change them.$6000 for a trans job,Crazy.If I had these on my truck I would worry about it every time I drove it.

[@rcole3838]

Thanks again for a great video. 6R80 owners need to put trans line replacement on a periodic replacement schedule, like coolant hoses, serpentine belt. Parts don’t last forever. Lines cheaper than transmission.

[@john5600]

Thanks for the info. Do you see this occurring on trucks that have reached a certain amount of mileage, reached a certain age or both?

[@mudwiser1391]

Great question. I have only 55,000 miles on my 2013. Those aluminum connectors can't be going on a truck will low miles...Or Can They?

[@sugarebaresnuffy]

That would be nice to know. Mine is 12 yrs old with 440000km on it. I think i will ve replacing mine as soon as i get home.

[@nicholashaag6184]

Commenting for visibility

[@davidcapps7553]

Just had this happen to ‘14 F150 last night. Glad I had this video to show me a work around to get truck home.

[@buyselltrade6270]

Is there a preemptive solution for this problem that doesn't involve replacing the entire cooling line assembly?

[@boostedsaleen6146]

Rubber hose and hose clamps

[@mr5410]

Just found a leak in the line on our 2012 f150....got it replaced...no damage....thanks!!!!

[@daurbn]

Thanks for the information. Just sad that we never know as a consumer/customer what could be the weakest link in a very costly repair until we find out about it when it's to late. Feel bad for the customer.

[@BlueOvals24]

Well as a consumer, you should also know how to do preventative maintenance. That's the problem here, nobody replaced those old, rubber lines and they are bound to break.

[@alb12345672]

Maybe modify that section with some flanged steel or nicopp tube into the rubber? You can certainly use a compression fitting on trans lines. I will do that if I ever get this truck.

[@bogus696996]

Can’t you just cut off the quick connects and bypass them with some good rubber hose and some,clamps and prevent this from even happening?

[@josephbenge8707]

Thats what I am thinking as well. Someone made a comment that's what they did. I'm going to definitely going to look into this. I have a 2013 with 153,00 miles on it now.

[@larryschaum6280]

If you use rubber lines (hoses) to do that. Just remember that. Normal fuel line. Isn’t good enough. It will soften and swell And burst over time. It really has to be rated for transmission fluid. I am a transmission builder. I have seen the normal fuel line cause the same exact damage. It’s fine short term. But it isn’t a long term fix. Plus using the correct hose or not. The clamps will usually work loose over time. So checking them periodically is a must.

[@bogus696996]

@@larryschaum6280 right. I get the transmission line, but high pressure or not? Also, he said 15 clamps, but I know he was exaggerating, but I guess a few clamps on each? Also, how to cut the lines? Limited room.

[@larryschaum6280]

@@bogus696996 I agree there isn’t much room. Depending on the outer diameter of the line. Find a smaller tubing cutter. Or if necessary go ahead and remove the line and drop it down enough to gain access. It is helpful getting the hose clamps to stay on. If you can slightly flare the end. So the clamps can’t just blow off if the get a little loose. I prefer two

[@jerrymcgeorge4117]

My thoughts when I first heard of this. I checked mine and it doesn’t look that difficult

[@humbertocarreno5836]

I actually caught mine leaking from the trans coolant line that is attached to the frame the line rusted through and developed a leak and the only way I caught it was when I used remote start to warm up the truck. But yeah I ended up replacing all the lines you showed in the video all for like 150$ in parts from ford an easy job to do.

[@elywalton1236]

I have the heavy-duty tow package with transmission cooler. Is the breakage rate different for vehicles with coolers vs. no coolers? Great information. TIA

[@Hamchuck112]

Interested to know this as well. Have the same package on my 2010

[@FordTechMakuloco]

No

[@maryannmoran-smyth3453]

Great show as usual , And as a fellow mechanic I always change out my oil lines , transmission lines and brake lines to more quality stuff so I don’t have an issue no matter what the vehicle additionally I put my own coolers and remote filters in for ease because I do my own servicing and I have a pump that sucks out the oil and pumps it back in because it’s just that easy…… Keep on rocking…

[@BlueOvals24]

That's how to do it man, replace those old lines before they can break like this.

[@GSC-Operator-chan]

Thank you for posting this and letting the rest of us know. What mileage was this particular example at so we have a reference? Also whats the going rate for getting that pre-emptively replaced (hours of labor and part cost)?

[@BlueOvals24]

Mileage doesn't matter here, it's age and how hot/dry your climate is. Rubber cracks and leaks, you should inspect for this on any vehicle.

[@ottallman]

@@BlueOvals24 9yrs and in the valley of the sun. Guess I better look into changing these out 🙄

[@BlueOvals24]

@@ottallman In the valley of the sun as well. Ignored my lines for 11 years and had a puddle of coolant under it.

[@brianward818]

Thanks Brian for putting this info out there , just a FYI , I have a 2013 F250 superduty (70K) and had the same problem as you talk about here. Lucky for me at the time I was pulling a trailer just down the street from my house to pick up a bucket truck body , when I backed in to the lot I noticed a wet spot trail on the ground which I shut the truck off right away , got under the truck and found the leak , the fitting had not yet broke off , so I wrapped a rag with a tie rap around it , dumped the trailer and went home , which once I got home I took the rag off and it broke off . I only lost about a quart of fluid , part of was in my driveway as I left that morning. But instead of buying the part as you did , I just cut it off and had some HP hose from another vehicle repair that fit perfect with some clamps . I have had no issues since . I also cut the other line too and replaced with a hose and clamp. Been a few hundred miles and I always check for leaks and have not seen any problems since. I have seen this type of issue with other vehicles I own and now I always do a walk around before I leave the house with the vehicle running. But yes like your customer it could have been a huge problem $$$$

[@jameswasher3938]

Thanks for the warning Brian. I hope your Florida trip helped you out a bit. It sure seems like someone could make a retro-fit for this. These quick connects (in my opinion) are there for initial vehicle assembly. A couple of short lengths of hose and four clamps could eliminate all of this and save folks $6000.

[@jerryfrederick6610]

You are correct, that is exactly what I did. I used 1960 era tech . It will last the life of the truck now.

[@jameswasher3938]

@@jerryfrederick6610 Glad to hear that. Good job.

[@jiveturkey713]

Just regular hose and clamps? Nothing special?

[@jerryfrederick6610]

@@jiveturkey713 Use your tubing flare kit to put a ever so slight bell on the end of the tubing so when you put on the hose and tighten the clamp there is some resistance to prevent the hose from blowing off the end of the straight tubing. Practice with a seperate piece of tubing first. My set up is holding up just fine, I do not even think about it and hav not until this post. Take Care and God Bless, Good Luck.

[@jameswasher3938]

@@jiveturkey713 You'd certainly want a hose that is compatible with whatever transmission fluid you are using.

[@deerock7]

yeah, replaced the front one myself after it blew last month and was so lucky that it was in a parking lot. also purchased the replacement line that travels underneath and not so sure about doing it myself yet ;) 2013 F150 with the V8...love this truck!

[@monkeybarmonkeyman]

Being as they are cooler lines, what type of line pressure are we looking at, in and out of the cooler? Ought those of us with low-mileage rides (2009 myself, 60K miles) consider replacing the lines? If so, can you show a better line method than just replacing the hardware with known-to-fail components? By the way - how does one inspect fluid level/change fluid on these trannys/trucks?

[@gabeesquivelLethalZR1]

Right side of trans has dib stick/tube you need to use wrench to unscrew. Plenty of videos on it.

[@monkeybarmonkeyman]

Thanks yes... I found one... then I looked at a number of custom dipstick...omg the prices...

[@bigbadbeaver86]

@Fred Wills I’ve been wanting a drain pan with a plug on it for a long as I’ve owned my 2013… I usually change the filter every time I change the fluid, I’ve heard somewhere that there lifetime filters but I don’t know about that. How often do you replace your filter now that you have a drain plug??

[@bigbadbeaver86]

@Fred Wills thanks for getting back to me, sounds good. Does the doorman seem like good quality to you? I’m gonna do more research on it for sure. Thanks have a good one!

[@bigbadbeaver86]

@Fred Wills nice good to know thanks I’ll look into it for sure now

[@superduty4828]

Hot damn the man is back. Agreed sir on your last videos from vacation. Take some down time, family is the up most importance. Hope you take some time off that is well needed and figure out some diligence in work/life. Love the videos for lots of years, my 6.7 hauler is needed a CP4 and turbo replenishing, approaching 130k. I’ll email you to setup a time to drop off. Nice to see some videos from your channel sir.

[@operationbs7610]

300k on my ford truck 5.4 3v. I watch all your videos. Everything on my truck is original minus the radiator and clutch fan. Sad story I knew the clutch fan needed replaced and I would normally do that simple task myself but I was on vacation when I noticed the symptoms. Shop installed it incorrectly and it went through the radiator 🤣🤭

[@davidwellman5768]

You just saved me, wish I could post a picture of my lines. Ordered new ones from the dealer and aren’t driving it until I get them.

[@walterward8164]

Just a side note. I drove my 1964 Ford Econoline 185 cu in. From Orlando to Seattle in 1990. Blew out the oil rings by Pensacola. Had to add a quart of oil every fill up. But it made it. Now have we improved anything? Really?

[@mattmanyam]

My 2011 3.5 Ecoboost has 338,000 miles, with original cooler lines (in the rust belt). I'll be ordering these today.

[@poulpedersen3350]

Thanks for putting this video up .. while I was having the lead-frame fixed (Fixed under Transmission Molded Leadframe Extended coverage) I had this taken care of as well .. less than 700 with sales tax ..you are doing a great favor to us Ford owners 🙂

[@ronc4146]

What year is your vehicle? I could only find a 2019 Customer Service notice covering 2010-2013 through the end of 2019 that had under 10 years / 150k mi.

[@poulpedersen3350]

@@ronc4146 Its a 2013 and If I remember right I read it as if your truck is less than 10 years old and or less than 150,000 miles and it thew the right code you are good and I should revise my earlier statement (Fixed) It not fixed yet but it was confirmed that I get the extented coverage but a lack of parts has put me on the waiting list ..It still acts up from time to time and jerks me around but I have had no major wheel lock up.

[@LA_Commander]

I've never been a fan of quick disconnects. The problem with just replacing the hose set with a new OEM set is that you still have that same defective aluminum part connected there and the issue could come up again in just a few years (perhaps sooner). I wonder if it would be better to just ditch that defective aluminum quick connect in favor of the more "tried and true" new hoses and hose clamps? Those have worked for decades with few, if any, problems. I have installed many aftermarket trans coolers on vehicles that didn't have them; the hose and clamp system worked just fine. The line pressure isn't that high. I wonder if anyone has tried that fix for these vehicles with the design defect like this?

[@josephbenge8707]

Following!!

[@jimmi31580]

Interested from hearing this too

[@jonesjones7057]

Long story warning ... I did on my Nissan Armada. It's lines cracked in a similar way. Fortunately caught it when I pulled up home and saw tranny fluid all over my boat. No fluid on the dip stick so I was close to disaster. Found out on the forums its a common after warranty issue, say after 5 or so years. People are pissed, no recall. So what I did is eliminate that issue. Mine was slightly different but looking at this set up, I would just cut that metal "quick connect" off and then cut off the connection at the metal pipes that run up to the cooler. Then flare the tubing slightly for some grip on the hose and connect the rubber hose directly to the metal lines with two hose clamps per line. The flare will add grip. More than likely will need to add a little extra hose since it'll probably be too short stock so get some same diameter hose at auto zone or wherever and add a piece using a couple short metal pipes flared again and some double hose clamps. I know it sounds like a butcher shop method but it just works. It basically can't fail. I did this to my Armada at least ten years ago. Works great. It did drip a bit at first as the hoses were new and had to sort of take the load of the clamps but after a couple good tightenings, perfect.

[@bkirk2278]

Just was finally getting the correct a/c clutch hub installed from your other video that literally just saved me a shop quoted $1200.00 full replacement....THANK YOU!! And as I was doing so working around these trans line I couldn't help but notice the 85% SPLIT down both of them on the crimps just barely hanging on! Guess I know what I'm doing tomorrow 😌 thanks again man....keep up the generosity and great work!! 2013 F150 Coyote 5.0L

[@vinces8974]

Great information to have, Ford should’ve at least warned these people about this problem, definitely seems like a manufacturing defect

[@dgunearthed7859]

so no repercussions for Ford on this? No recalls, no service bulletins? No nothing? Could someone successfully sue in small claims court over this? How does something like this become a recall? I'm feeling a little less confident I'll be buying another f-150 or any other ford product. If they can jack you up over this and there was another issue(s), just not right.

[@stephenbartram7377]

Its always the small thing that corrupts the whole

[@chadmartin5473]

@@dgunearthed7859 Its not only the f-150's the fusions are no better. I've since bought a Toyota and couldn't be happier. I'll never buy another Ford.

[@stevennunez6013]

@@chadmartin5473 your going to have the same problem the trans line is a maintenance item anything that a rubber or plastic on it has to be replaced every 5 years or 100 k I suggest you read your owners manual it literally tells you when to replace everything.

[@dgunearthed7859]

@@chadmartin5473 Oh I've owned plenty of Toyotas too. The truck (before they had names) started crapping out after 100k so said the person I sold it to. And one of the corollas, well, i felt it was an average car at best. Now, the 2017 subaru forester? Best day of my life was when we turned it in on the wife's new Kia soul. It had ac problems one of which was actually handled by the stealership due to a recall and the other, the other part, wouldn't be covered, so the wife said "sell it". lol I have to give credit due where it's due, my 03 f-150 is probably the best vehicle I've ever owned. Yeah it's had a couple issues like the fuel pump going out, but for an $1,100.00 stealership bill to fix that, that was the largest repair in it's 150k life so far so I feel lucky. I just don't know about these new vehicles.

[@speedway440]

It happened to my 2013 EcoBoost last winter, and a Buddy’s 2012 Raptor last year. Lots of fun fishing those lines to the front.

[@truckasaurus4401]

So, what would be a good way to pre-diagnose this? Maybe a couple little tugs and see if it snaps...

[@AreaThirteenThirteen]

With my luck I would try that and it would hold but weaken it just enough to give out going down the highway a little bit later!

[@truckasaurus4401]

@@AreaThirteenThirteen 😂 sounds like my kinda luck. Best to leave well enough alone, methinks!

[@jimbo2834]

The aluminum line on my 2012 cooler cracked at the aluminum section when the truck was 6 years old! I got lucky because spotted the fluid while stopped on a very short trip Thanks for the great Vid

[@edwardkareem6446]

This really sucks people that live on roads that get salt on starts to corrode a lot of parts I live in California I have not heard of this issue but thank you for making this video I am going to inspect my cooler lines and possibly even replacing them

[@drjrjules1]

Should these be proactively replaced do you think? I've got a 2014 with this trans with 150K miles on it. Great info, love the channel! Appreciate all your hard work!!

[@--_DJ_--]

I would change them if it were my truck. It might be a waste of money but it is better to blow a couple hundred rather than rolling the dice with your several thousand dollar transmission.

[@Tanks_Fire]

@@--_DJ_-- I agree I have 119,000 on my 2011 and going to get new lines

[@--_DJ_--]

@@Tanks_Fire Both of the 2012s we have in the fleet had them break somewhere around 150k km. I think you are making a smart choice. They are not too bad to get in there, but I have a hoist so doing it on your back might be a bit more of a chore. I have replaced the quick couple portion with rubber hose in the past, but it is a bit of a hokey fix, it works though. They were old worn out trucks destined for trade in on new ones so the cost of the lines wasn't worth it.

[@BlueOvals24]

If it hasn't been done yet, do it. 10 years a lot to ask of rubber parts, you should also get your coolant lines inspected and possibly replaced too.

[@--_DJ_--]

@@BlueOvals24 The rubber isn't the problem.

[@drophammer776]

2014' F150 STX Noticed on way to work transmission wasn't shifting right. Got home. Noticed leak under radiator. Gently turned the plastic clip and the metal connector on the transmission line separated with fluid spraying all directions. Thanks for this video.

[@bostonbrown2006]

Just got a 2014 F150 5.0. Is it the same connectors as the ecoboost? If so, how should I go about inspecting them to make sure this does not happen? Truck has 123,000 miles on it.

[@kennethscanlon4622]

I think they're very similar if not identical. Friend of mine has a 12 with a 5.0, his let go while towing their 26' travel trailer out of state. Replaced them & trans is still good over a year later. I have a 12 with a 3.5l EcoBoost, mine snapped while maneuvering our 29' camper trailer. I replaced all the lines & haven't seen any ill effects after 9 months. Dealer parts dept was super helpful sifting through part numbers, at least verify that much with them if you wanna try & find em cheaper elsewhere.

[@bostonbrown2006]

Thanks

[@ravennation14]

No real way of seeing it’s gonna happen I would just change it seems simple and the part is less than $100 I got 215k on my 12 ecoboost and I’m doing it asap. Prevention is key

[@bostonbrown2006]

@@ravennation14 agreed.

[@jimcraychee835]

I pulled it off!! Not too bad except trying to fish the cooler lines thru the tight gap up front. I was tempted to cut the old lines out but I knew if I could not get the old lines out, the new lines would not go in. I ended up removing the brackets on the tubes and re-installed them after I got it routed. Also had to use a strap around the tubes to pull them forward.

[@randywilliams5337]

Do you know the millage when this has been happening? I have a 2014 so I would like to replace them before they break. Thanks for the information.

[@jasongunningham9545]

It happened to my 2014 F150 50 a year and a half ago. Had to get a my transmission rebuilt. May want to see how much it would cost just to replace the lines but I’m no mechanic

[@jimjennings1731]

I have a 2013 f150 with 207 thousand miles on it and haven't had any issues with the lines leaking but after watching this video I'm going to check them out. I think I'll put new ones on just to have peace of mind.

[@shawshank7618]

Thanks for the info I have 2013 f150 so can you cut these connections off and just replace them with new rubber lines and clamps.

[@billsimpson604]

As long as you use reinforced hose that can take the heat, pressure, and oil exposure, sure. Just make sure the hose has something to grip on, so it doesn't blow off as you are driving down the road.

[@josephbenge8707]

@@billsimpson604 Do you know how much pressure is in the lines?

[@billsimpson604]

@@josephbenge8707 No, but any fiber reinforced rubber hose should work. Look at the hose he used to make the bypass in the video.

[@--_DJ_--]

We have had 2 survive that line breaking there. One the guy caught as he was backing up to leave and the other got driven until it wouldn't move. Somehow it is still working just fine, I was sure it was toast when I saw what happened.

[@DericCribbs]

Good to know, thanks for sharing your experiences with this

[@mph5896]

"driven until it wouldn't move". Thats prob about 3 minutes until 7 quarts of fluid are on the ground.

[@--_DJ_--]

@@mph5896 Ya the evidence didn't go very far back down the road. Broke going over a rough business entrance, puked most of it out at a red light and made it just around the corner before it "stalled". Poor young lady (summer student) barely knew how to open the hood. She thought the engine quit, and a guy that stopped said the "coolant exploded" and left. I figured she overheated it and it seized but it started just fine, just had no drive. Easy fix, got lucky though. I had to give her a bit of a hard time, knowing the difference between oil and water is helpful when calling in a problem, it just ended up with her crying.