Audi TT MK1 Roadster Convertible Top Installation (Years 1999-2006) Complete Install Tutorial Part.2

Hey Guys,
Today we performed a convertible top replacement on a 2003 Audi TT MK1. This is a complete walkthrough that applies to model years 98-06. In this video we go through the process of installing the online purchased convertible top. We purchased the replacement top online that came in a sort of kit but the instructions were useless so we decided to film ourselves replacing it.
This was not an easy task and is a bit time consuming, but it is well worth the money saved since most quotes wanted $1500-$2000 to replace the existing top.
A complete tool kit was needed for this job as there are many torx screws, phillips screws, rivets, and a few allen heads.
We hope this video is found informative for any of those looking to replace their own convertible top DIY. Best of luck to those who take on replacing the top themselves.
Top we purchased:
www.convertibletopguys.com/co...
Package D
Here's a quick overview of the tools needed.
Various Phillips screwdriver
Flathead screwdriver
Soldering gun
T20/T25 Torx sockets
1/4 in Ratchet
Vice Grips
Drill with drillbits
Rivet gun (comes in the kit)
T25 Screwdriver
6mm Allen Socket
Folding Allen Set
17mm Wrench
Pry-Tools
Punch tool
Rubber Mallet
Cheers!
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Website bradleysgarage.com -coming soon
Instagram / bradleygarage
If you liked the video, remember to give it a "thumbs up" and consider subscribing.
Thanks again for hanging out!
#audi #tt #convertibles
Disclaimer:
Due to factors beyond the control of BradleysGarage, we cannot guarantee against improper use or unauthorized modifications of this information. BradleysGarage assumes no liability for property damage or injury incurred as a result of any of the information contained in this video. Use this information at your own risk. BradleysGarage recommends safe practices when working on vehicles and or with tools seen or implied in this video. Due to factors beyond the control of BradleysGarage, no information contained in this video shall create any expressed or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result. Any injury, damage, or loss that may result from improper use of these tools, equipment, or from the information contained in this video is the sole responsibility of the user and not BradleysGarage.

[@andyrolfes6309]

Thanks so much for the video. One thing I found that helped was when the 2 hex screws are removed on both sides, slide the tension bar to the rear of the car, then slide the front of the tension bar UNDER the point where it was bolted on.That will move the bar forward about 1.5 inches. Then you don’t have to remove the roll bars to get to the stops. Saved boat loads of time. Again great video.

[@BradleysGarage]

Thanks for the comments! The main reason we took out the bars was not necessarily for the removal process but the installation part. Getting in there to attach the screws to that bar can be difficult with the roll bars in. Appreciate the advice on sliding the bar to make it easier to get out. Cheers!

[@paulmatejka7371]

That’s very true the window has to be stitched in Or the up and down movement of the convertible top Will just loosen any adhesive I think 👍 You have done an amazing job there though I could never do that 👏

[@gotze1772]

Thanks again for this mate. I finally did it. It took me forever, but the car looks much better now. Hopefully there won't be any leaks

[@BradleysGarage]

Congrats, glad we could motivate you to get out there and get it done. Appreciate the feedback. Cheers

[@gotze1772]

Thank you for making these videos mate. Now I have the confidence to do it myself to keep the wife happy(hers TT) and save a lot of $$$

[@BradleysGarage]

Absolutely brother, glad we could help build that confidence. Let us know how it goes. Cheers

[@paulmatejka7371]

Hi thanks for the reply yes I can imagine prices vary greatly From around the world, I was just lucky to have a great guy to do My rear screen and live very close by, Its amazingly stitched and glued,

[@unpolire]

Whar a job! Thanks for this video!

[@BradleysGarage]

Glad you enjoyed the video, thanks for hanging out, Cheers!

[@alfarius7110]

this was a godsent I was looking how to do this on my TT

[@BradleysGarage]

Thank you for the great comments. I hope this video helps you tackle it. Good luck with your project. Cheers!

[@ddaymusic9722]

Hi. Wow. Great video. Just what I needed to get motivated to do job. Is amazing how much you can save if you can figure things out or if someone makes a great video to help guide you. Thx!!!

[@BradleysGarage]

Thanks for the great feedback. Hope the videos help you get your job done. Good luck 👍

[@Al-qv5vs]

Thanks for the video. I think with two artificial knees I am going to struggle with this

[@paulmatejka7371]

Unbelievable amount of work There’s a car trim guy in the UK that supplies and fits a new one For £850. Or he will put in a new rear screen in for £300 That’s what I went for Brilliant job Stitched all around and adhesive

[@BradleysGarage]

Thanks for the comments. Here in the states they want about $1500 to do the job. The top alone cost $500 here so no one will install it for $350. As far as just replacing the window, not one shop will guarantee it will last. There is no good way to epoxy it back to an old top. The new design, the window is sewn in so it will never fail again. Cheers!

[@johnpm1605]

@@BradleysGarage it is NOT SEWN IN! That's what they do with plastic windows NOT glass ones like the TT has..... You glue it in with the same polyurethane adhesive that they glue in windscreens with. It's a fraction of the price of a new hood, and lasts as long as the glue on your front screen....

[@johnpm1605]

Sounds interesting, can you put his contact details on here please? The stitching you mention is to hold the folded over part of the hood in place. The factory doesn't stitch them, but just glue it.... The glue comes apart at the same time as the glue holding the glass in.

[@paulmatejka7371]

He’s in Ivybridge near Plymouth Devon If you are near enough I will put the company name on here I will look it up if you like

[@tylerp6375]

Was your rain rail bond in good shape? I’m going to start on this project this weekend and see that mine is toast and will need to be redone. I’ve done a few tops before and this one doesn’t look too terrible, but your video gives a great overview. Thanks for putting it up!

[@BradleysGarage]

Yeah, I didn't find any issues with it. Putting it back in was the fun part..... lol. That's why I took out the roll bars to give me space to work in there. Good luck with your project! Glad the video inspired you 😎 Cheers!

[@1rvowl]

To keep from ping-ponging you to answer questions....how did you ensure the top would be taunt after installation?? Maybe another youtube info/volg with tips after installation?? Love the sensor trick modification, good on ya!! Thanks again!! Paul

[@BradleysGarage]

The fabric is pretty taunt, probably a little too taunt right after the install. I didn't worry about it being lose, since I was counting on the manufacturer to supply me with a good product. I am very happy with the top, I would just say the instructions they give are a complete waste of time. Hence the reason I decided to make this video. Have fun with your project!

[@etmil35]

Thanks for the video. I'm starting mine this weekend and have watched both of your videos twice. What size rivets are used?

[@BradleysGarage]

Thanks for the question. The pop rivets we used were 3/16" x 3/8" with a drill size of .191 or #11, which is basically a 3/16" or 4.8mm diameter drill bit. Good luck on your Audi TT project let us know how it goes. Cheers!

[@juanpabloponceherrera4335]

Thanks for the video! Great work! It helped me a looot! I just have one quick question, the previous owner changed the soft top one time, but they left a small gap, where the soft top meets the trunk (kinda), so water is leaking there… by any chance do you know how to adjust that? 🤔

[@BradleysGarage]

Hey Juan, glad you enjoyed the video. The first thing I would check are the drains located on each side of the car next to the metal frame (directly behind each door). There is a loop in the material along the rear trim which acts as a trough to take water from the middle of the back of the top and direct it to each side in order to drain. If those get clogged, then water can start to pool up behind the seats. If the drains look good and you are able to see water is draining properly from them, I would check to make sure the looped material under the rear is securely fastened and not drooping down anywhere. As you could tell in the installation video, if you do not remove the roll bars, it would be very difficult to reattach that fabric in the correct manner. The previous owner could have taken a shortcut and that may be where your problem is. Good luck and let us know what you find out, Cheers!

[@tylerp6375]

That is the rain rail - a cloth “gutter” that directs leakage to the drains. You’ll need to rebond it - the adhesive fails over time. I used contact adhesive on mine when redoing the top and it’s still holding a couple years later. A convertible top shop can also assist you with it.

[@garyalexanian1751]

Great job with the tutorial video.. Gave me the confidence to attack the job. Save me $1000 install. Would it make it any easier to remove the seats? One more lol...Since you didn't use any adhesive on the top rails did you have any issues down the road?

[@BradleysGarage]

Congrats on doing it yourself! Cant complain keeping $1000 in your pocket, that always feels good. As far as removing seats its really personal choice, whether you want more room to work or not. Its not necessary but could give an excuse to clean under the seats (lol). In regards to the top rails we haven't had any issues with anything moving around, the screws on the end of the plastic cover rails seem to keep everything in place. Thanks for watching the video and providing feedback, Cheers

[@srgpip]

Great job, I need to carry out this work myself and your video will certainly help with that. How long did the job take you? Also like the look of that integrated window, never seen that option before.

[@BradleysGarage]

Thanks for the kind words. My son was helping with the project, which makes things easier. I would say it took us about 6 hours to figure everything out and get it done. We could probably get it done in half the time now that we know how it works. Plan on leaving yourself an entire day just to be safe. Good luck on your project. Cheers!

[@srgpip]

@@BradleysGarage Thanks you. Could you please explain the difference with the window in the after market hood over the stock hood, I didn't quite understand the benefits, also do you have a link to the hood? Cheers.

[@BradleysGarage]

@@srgpip Both the factory and the aftermarket style utilize a Permalok rear window bond system. I went with the Ez-On top since it carries a lifetime window bond warranty. Not that I want to replace the top again but at least I have the peace of mind knowing it's covered. Here is the link to purchase the top - www.convertibletopguys.com/convertible/1003/1999-2006-Audi-TT-amp;-TT-Quattro-Roadster Cheers!

[@srgpip]

@@BradleysGarage Thanks very much for these details, much appreciated.

[@tgarret]

My top is still good and working but the rain channel detached on one side from the car body ( not from the top ) how to you reattach / glue it ? In your video it seems you just shove it back without reattaching it

[@BradleysGarage]

Hey Thomas, during the first 2 and a half minutes of the second video, I try my best to show you the way it attaches. There is a metal bar that keeps the top in place with multiple screws. On that metal bar is a lip that the rain gutter presses into. If you are having trouble with just one side, I would look to see if that has come unattached from the metal strip. If simply presses back into the channel so to speak. You can then test it with the hose to make sure it's draining towards the middle. Sometimes those drains get blocked as well. Hope this helps, good luck. Cheers!

[@90Duck]

I ran into some difficulty reattaching the plastic stoppers that you were working on at the very start of the video. I had used a larger drill bit when I drilled out the existing rivets, so the protrusions that you used screws to go into were either gone or too thin to hold, and I couldn't find any sheet metal screws short enough but of a big enough diameter to hold into the holes in the base bow. The instructions say to insert rivets, but my pop riveter would not go any larger than a 3/16 diameter rivet, and I could not get them to spread enough to hold in the existing holes, even using longer heads that I though would deform enough to stick in there. A 1/4" rivet would possibly work, but the Bentley manual says you need a special (aka $$$$) VAG rivet gun to do the job. My solution was to buy a $25 rivet nut inserter from Harbor Freight and pop a threaded insert (the right size came with the gun) into each of the 4 holes. Now I can thread the right size machine screws through the plastic cleat and fabric into the base bow. Just thought I'd share my experience and save someone else having the same issue some time getting to a solution, as I ended up spending most of the weekend trying to figure out the workaround! Thanks again for the video, it has been very helpful (even down to using a soldering iron to punch the holes!

[@BradleysGarage]

Thanks for the installation tips 90Duck. We also couldn't find any rivets to work so that's why we just found some screws that did the job. We just learned about the Nutsert tool from the comments on our Blast Cabinet video (kzbin.info/www/bejne/eJrYeI2rqL-MqtU). We have since invested in the tool and will be sure to utilize it for an upcoming project. It seems like it will come in handy for things. Glad to hear the video helped you with your Audi TT, thanks again for feedback, Cheers!

[@90Duck]

@@BradleysGarage As these Mk1 roadsters age, they pretty much all seem to be failing at the rear window. I think the view counts on your two DIY videos on the TT roof removal and replacement are going to continue to climb as there really isn't anything out there even close to what you documented about the process. And you are right, the instructions are not particularly helpful on their own, but they do have some utility for me when paired with the illustrations in the Bentley Manual and your videos. Thanks again, I would be completely lost on my project without your video assistance!

[@BradleysGarage]

@@90Duck We played around in the junkyard before doing this project and filming it simply because there wasn't any content providing a step by step process. We wanted to show that is was possible to do it yourself and save hundreds if not $1k on your own. It seems like 50% of the TT's I have seen for sale the past couple years have issues with the rear window falling out, so it's definitely an issue that will arise in the future for sure. Glad the videos helped you with your Audi TT project. Cheers!

[@90Duck]

@@BradleysGarage Was it pretty warm out while you were doing this install? I've got heaters going in the garage to warm it up, and I'm trying to attach the roof to the rear tension bar, and the fabric is just too tight to work with. I just can't get the fabric to stretch enough so that the pre-drilled holes align with the with the holes in the rear tension strut and gutter clip. I can get the first three moving out from the center on both sides, but can't get past the point where it bows past the tension straps, and it gets progressively worse the closer I get to the forward ends of the tension bar. I've now removed the tension straps from the frame so I can work with it all out of the car, but I've spent most of the day just struggling and not making any progress. Watching and re-watching your video where it all seems to line up and you get it all attached in the first two minutes or so is killing me! I'm starting to think that I will have to wait for a warm sunny day so I can do this in the sun and get the roof heated up more.

[@BradleysGarage]

Sorry to hear your are having difficulty with the install. I'm not sure exactly of the temps but I'd say it was around 75 degrees that day. I'm assuming you purchased the top from the same manufacturer that we used? If that's the case, I would wait for a warmer day for sure. The material is pretty tight when new and would be difficult to stretch when really cold. Keep us posted on your progress, Cheers!

[@michelejones740]

I'm in the U.S. and I have purchased a new top with a glass window for $545.00 and haven't been able to find anyone to install it for any less than $1500.00. I have checked with all the component businesses in my area and beyond and when I told them I had my own top and just needed them to install it, they became aggravated and told me regardless, the only way it'd be cost effective for them would be to order the top themselves and then install it. To me that ment they wanted to order it, mark it up and make me pay one and a half times the cost of the top plus labor. I already paid for the top and now the only way I can get a shop to install it is to allow them to charge me for the top again plus labor so I have no other choice but to try to do this myself and I honestly have no clue but I can't afford for a shop to do that to me either. Worst case scenario is it ends up being wrapped up in a tarp in the back corner of my yard. I have wanted this car ever since it came out in 2001 and never could afford one and I've day I came across this one and snatched it up only to be hit with this. I'm gonna try. Keep all fingers crossed that I can figure it out.

[@BradleysGarage]

Hey Michele, sorry to hear you are having trouble finding a local installer. I agree that most shops want to make money off selling you the top as well as the labor. When you take away that 30-50% markup just for the parts, they get very defensive. I am confident there is a local old school shop somewhere in your area that can help you out. Let me know what part of the country you are in and I'm happy to see if I can help. It might end up being an hour or more drive but at least you can fell good about the money spent. The other option is to grab another mechanically inclined friend and use the video as your guide. With a little patience and time, I'm sure you can figure it out. Good luck with your search, let me know and I can see what I can come up with for you. Cheers!

[@michelejones740]

@@BradleysGarage thanks. I am in Carrollton, Virginia in the United States. I welcome any and all advice and or help. Thank you once again.

[@BradleysGarage]

Ok Michele, I made a few calls and it looks like there are a couple options. Both of these places you will need to bring the car and the new top to them for inspection in order to quote you a labor price. The first place is relatively close to you, Nick's Upholstery 5207 Cleveland St Virginia Beach, VA 23462. Give Nick a call @ 757-962-6124 If for some reason that does not work out, the next place is in Richmond. Interior Guys 8253 Midlothian Tpke Richmond, VA 23235. Give Dan a call @ 804-548-4601 Please let us know how it goes, Cheers!

[@dylanocampo4026]

Good afternoon friend, I bought an audi tt quatro, 2003, the hood does not have the strength to raise, I do not know if it needs liquid, but I do not know where to apply the liquid, if you could help me please thank you very much greetings from cura ao

[@BradleysGarage]

It sounds to me like your hood struts must be bad/worn out. They are easy to replace and fairly inexpensive. Name brand like Stablilus might run you $30-40 or amazon replicas are about half. Basically grab a small flat head screwdriver and insert it in between the metal clip on the top and bottom of the strut and they should pop right off. And the news you pop into place with a light push. Hope this helps, let me know if you need more assistance. Cheers

[@iankennedy5801]

Great video but, should have replaced the drain tubes while you had all the interior trim out.

[@BradleysGarage]

Definitely a great idea, thanks for the suggestion. I know it's not in the video but we did flush out the drains with water and a blow gun. Hopefully that will keep them clear in the foreseeable future 😁

[@rickhart9446]

Do you have a tool list for the removal and replacement?

[@BradleysGarage]

Sorry for not responding sooner. Here's a quick overview of the tools needed. Various Phillips screwdriver Flathead screwdriver Soldering gun T20/T25 Torx sockets 1/4 in Ratchet Vice Grips Drill with drillbits Rivet gun (comes in the kit) T25 Screwdriver 6mm Allen Socket Folding Allen Set 17mm Wrench Pry-Tools Punch tool Rubber Mallet Cheers!

[@chrismantsylvain9764]

Merci très instructif en VO ST FR ça aurait été cool ou un petit sous-titrage en français ça aurait été super bien car vous êtes le seul à avoir fait cette vidéo..🤙🏽

[@godkmeister533]

Thanks for part 2. I am not looking forward to this project, haha

[@BradleysGarage]

Its definitely a challenge, but worth the money saved doing it yourself, good luck with the replacement !

[@MiguelFlores-hk9yg]

Useful, but wow! Scary and probably beyond my skill. Thanks anyway. Great job.

[@BradleysGarage]

Hey Miguel, appreciate the feedback. I know it appears to be a daunting task but it is doable, depending on your comfort level. Glad you enjoyed the video, it just might inspire you one of these days, Cheers!

[@johnpm1605]

No need to bodge the switch adjustment with some scrap plastic! The hook that operates the switch is adjustable!!!!!!!

[@1rvowl]

WOW!!! SUPER, great tutorial!! I owe you'all a beer!! Any way you can share the source of the replacement top? Tried to contact you via the url, but it goes nowhere! Instagram wants to marry me before she'll share!! Any contact info?? THANKS, Paul

[@BradleysGarage]

Thanks for the support!!! Here is where we purchased the Top - www.convertibletopguys.com/convertible/1003/1999-2006-Audi-TT-amp;-TT-Quattro-Roadster I went with Package C - the Sonnendeck Fabric as it closely resembles the Factory OEM canvas.

[@1rvowl]

Thanks so much for the info!! Enjoy and best of luck on the BMW! You earned your money on that one!!