Creality Ender 3 S1 Plus: A larger 300x300x300 Ender-3 S1 with some upgrades for $529, Pros and Cons

[@TheJacklwilliams]

Your reviews are thorough, your knowledge commendable, your work ethic top notch and lastly, but certainly not least, your ability to demo/present/teach, is truly incredbile. I think the thing that tops that off is your “just getting started” age wise. I’m 57 and astounded, truly. You belong in rarified air, Stefan CNC Kitchen, Angus @ MakersMuse, Thomas Sanlander, etc… What’s ironic is your content, your brothers videography (and I’m sure he contributes in many other ways)is just fantastic. I bought my second printer, about a month and a half ago, the Sovol SV05, because of your review. It cost me, the same exact price of my Anet A8Plus, that was bought two years before, and I came away with so many upgrades, 32 bit board, silent steppers, cube construct, autobed leveliing. I wanted all these features but every time I found them the price was out of reach for the budget that I had set. Your review of the product, is what sold it. THANK YOU!!!!

[@rickh6963]

Great review. Thank you for taking the time to record and post your videos. I would like to suggest that in you include testing with the Raspberry Pi and octoprint software on future 3D printer reviews.

[@DennisMurphey]

Great review, right to the point and detailed. Yes it looks like a winner if you need the volume. Thank You so much guys. Dennis

[@Jbobonline]

Thanks Aurora and brother! It will be very interesting to see a guide to material handling - proper storage, junk recycling and disposal, drying, etc. Love your content and appreciate the time you take to create this quality content ☺️ stay strong!

[@stollfamily3914]

Well done rock star. I like the upgrade path that Creality is taking with the continued improvements with each new model in the family. Bed slingers have their issues, especially with tall prints, and I am hoping Creality will start an upgrade cycle with the Ender5 series.

[@AndrewAHayes]

It wont happen, Ender is the epitome of budget printer.

[@sledhead904]

you got your wish, the ender 5 s1 is out for preorder now

[@AerialWaviator]

Great attention to details in this video review. Love these reviews! The energy usage of the heat bed is just one example.

[@SPD3DPrinting]

thanks for taking the time to share your review of this printer. Have a great day!

[@Stampy36]

Well put video. Much better than anyone out there. Congrats to the parents! Instant follow. Thank you for sharing.

[@Stampy36]

How come no one is talking about the Type-C USB connection? Is it for future updates?

[@EndDayz]

Best reviews on the net!

[@TinkeringJohn]

Great review Aurora. I just upgraded my Ender 3 Pro with a Creality Dual Z Axis kit, a Creality Direct Drive print head and a BTT BLTouch (I upgraded the printer with an SKR E3 V2.0 with TFT display shortly after getting the printer). I looked at the Ender 3 S1 after seeing your review on it and saw it had the same build volume as my Ender 3 Pro, but then I saw there is an Ender 3 S1 Plus that can print to 300mm (11.8") in all 3 axes. I bought it from Creativity Labs on Amazon for around $550. The extra print volume will come in handy for me. I'm glad I will not need to add extras or updates to it.

[@matthewward1509]

What an excellent review. So organized and straight to the point. Thank you

[@yeroca]

Nice review! My guess is that they will soon release an Ender 3 S1 Plus Pro with the higher temperature heat break, maybe for an extra $50 or so. If they want to go higher to a higher price point than that, they'll need to think up some more features to add.

[@xdxdxdunix]

Any update on this? Will there be a S1 Pro Plus?

[@xenyon]

@@xdxdxdunix probably not, I mean the upgrade is done in 10 minutes for 15€

[@kaizermengele6669]

@@xdxdxdunix he made that shit up don’t be that gullible

[@Native_love]

The gantry being attached to the side instead of the bottom adds so much more strength! The other upgrades are so worth the money.

[@jaydnisevil]

I'd love to see a video of calibration and troubleshooting of a new printer.. I've got a S1 pro and been having trouble with the paper method.. It needs to be super tight to get a good squish and not leave gaps between the lines on the first layer tests.. Set it up based on the "Just touching" and regularly have trouble with bed adhesion even with PLA.

[@AndrewAHayes]

Get a set of feeler gauges and use the thinnest one and you will be able to dial in your Z much easier and more importantly more accurately and more uniform across the four corners.

[@jaydnisevil]

@@AndrewAHayes Tried that with a 0.2mm, was worse than the paper.. Best success I've had is adjusting it mid print with a calibration pattern; but it just seems crazy tight to achieve that level of squish.. Wondering if it's the stepper calibration is off or something..

[@AndrewAHayes]

@@jaydnisevil I think your gantry has dropped on one side, measure from the gantry to the bottom of the frame on each side and if it is out of whack follow one of the gantry levelling videos on YT.

[@TonyGrant.]

Great videos! You are very thorough yet concise. I would like you to see you review the Ender 5 Plus. It has been out for quite a while now so it's not new but I think it is still special. With a Z axis bed and a lead screw at either end, the bed looks extra stable. I think it would very good for printing tall, thin objects - like the Big Ben or aircraft wings and fuselages. I would imagine it will have very little ghosting due to oscillation. It would be interesting to see how precise it is with the print head on the X-Y axis rather than the bed. I know you have done the Ender 5 Pro but the Plus seems to have been overlooked by most reviewers. Thank you for your consideration.

[@MrGerhardGrobler]

Hi, my 3D print supplier has an Ender 6 and he had to reinforce the front of his buildplate to ensure propper leveling during a print. It saggs a bit, not much but some. A front leadscrew would have been a great addition...

[@TonyGrant.]

@@MrGerhardGrobler I think one lead screw on a Z axis plate has to be asking for trouble, especially with heaver prints. With wear due to usage I think a sagging plate would be inevitable eventually.

[@MrGerhardGrobler]

@@TonyGrant. I actually meant an additional lead screw to distribute the weight from the back lead srew to keep it even. not to move the lead screw from the rear to the front. sorry for the misunderstanding.

[@TonyGrant.]

@@MrGerhardGrobler There was no misunderstanding.

[@cstategrad99]

You can get Ender 5 Plus for about the same price and has much more to offer with no bed slinging. Wouldn’t that be a better option for the money?

[@rickstard73]

Does it come with the sprite head and larger touch screen 🤔

[@avejst]

It is a boden setup, not a direct drive, what I think is a Better setup

[@rickstard73]

@@avejst Most would argue the direct drive is better though and the high temp extruder for materials such as nylon 😀

[@cstategrad99]

@@rickstard73 but is that worth it?

[@cstategrad99]

@@avejst agreed, that is a benefit. Creality should upgrade all their printers with it.

[@paolomontagna5286]

interesting for those who print large vases or busts

[@joecnc3341]

Aurora - you are awesome! Thank you for the video.

[@RevyZero]

Mine just showed up today and I noticed the Creality slicer has a profile for this printer and the other s1's. Btw ive really been enjoying your videos, you make printing look so easy lol

[@thorntontarr2894]

Excellent review as expected and delivered by you. I wish you would comment that a larger print volume almost mandated a Volcano Type Extruder (I only mention Volcano type here but so many other possibilities exist to transfer heat into the filament ) to make print times reasonable. You did discuss the con of the heat break but with TI heat break AND extended heating surface area in the nozzle, this larger print volume might make sense. However, all of your other cons are 'spot on'.

[@avejst]

Great video as always 👍 Good points with the All metal gear Real. Thanks for sharing your expirences with All of us 👍😃

[@MrGerhardGrobler]

A bit late to the table, but gere is my offering. Great video To the point, accurate and unbiased review. What you expect from a tech channel As the owner of 2 S1 and an Ender 3 Max (300x300x340) I can wholeheartedly agree that the increased build volume doesn't quite cover the increase in price. But the build in CR-Touch is awesome. But yes, an all metal heat break would be much better. Expecting the S1 Pro Plus just arround the corner... Prusa Slicer does have an S1 profile in there printer lineup that works awesomely. Question: Didn't printing at 255 C cause fumes? The PTFE Tube inside the sprite starts breaking down at above 240 C. So I am careful not to print ABS on my printers anymore. But PETG at 235 C is as high as I go, and my S1's give great results with both PETG and TPU. (CRON TPU prints at 215C!). So thank you for a great channel.

[@rondlh20]

Excellent review, print quality looks great

[@workingTchr]

Thanks, I too would want the 300 degree hot end and would be willing to pay for it as an add-on, but I understand that even with that, the existing firmware for the Plus will only let you go up to 265. As of today, updated firmware that will go to 300 is not available. Also, and I don't know how important this is, but the S1 Pro's bed will go up to 110 whereas the S1 Plus will only go to 100.

[@forkerion]

editing that in Marlin is not really hard, you just need an Arduino IDE and the source, and change the Max temp variable.

[@michaelphelps7486]

Your review looks awesome on it! I just bought it for sale, and I hope to get results similar to yours.

[@jon9947]

If you pay attention you can pick up the Sprite Pro extruder as an upgrade kit for about $90 on sale fairly often. Even off sale its about $110. I basically built this printer a while ago using a Sunlu S8 frame I picked up for extra cheap and a BTT board. Tossed a sheet of PEI on it and less than $350 for a better version of this printer.

[@iansabrewolfe]

Or you can pay ~$30US for the Pro heatbreak upgrade for the base Sprite instead of replacing the entire print head assembly.

[@jon9947]

@@iansabrewolfe I bought the pro extruder and put on a extra cheap 310x310x400mm machine. That is one of the reasons I called it a better version of this printer. It is bigger and it has the all metal Sprite extruder.

[@AndrewAHayes]

Love the Queen Elizabeth II Clock Tower print!

[@kevinpezzi6777]

Regarding the issue of the nozzle remaining in contact with the PEI surface while preheating (beginning at 14:00 in the video): I am experiencing a potentially related problem: auto-leveling always mashes the nozzle into the build plate, tries to ram through it (pushing the plate down), then moves laterally as the nozzle gouges the PEI surface (in spite of very careful assisted leveling preceding that). I would greatly appreciate insight into what causes this problem and how to resolve it. I contacted Creality almost a week ago and still haven’t received any help from them. Unable to complete auto-leveling normally, I haven’t yet printed with this printer but I have successfully printed thousands of things with three other printers, all with auto-leveling that works exactly as it should.

[@Erosgenuino]

Tengo esta maquina y mejoraria ciertas cosas como: la pestañas que aprientan la faja que llega al extrusor en lugar de ser de plastico endeble las haria de metal.

[@robscouto]

That's a very detailed and insightful review. Thanks!

[@Devonaxx]

could you make another video about the Ender 3 S1 plus about manually leveling the bed? It's something i'm interested in learning and you went over this pretty quickly. could you please make a separate video going into more detail on how to do leveling properly before starting to print things?

[@mpkleinbreteler]

Very informative video! Thank you very much :) It helped me a lot with getting started with this (my first) printer :)

[@Zombie_13x33]

i cant get my first layer to stick unless i use a raft. then the first few layers taper inward while the first layer is srtingy around the edges but most things have been usable. ive messed around with alot of the settings in crealitys slicer and have alot of good results minus the first layers.

[@lexzbuddy]

We just bought an Ender 3 S1 Plus, it has a faulty SD card slot. The UK vendor and Creality are dragging their heals with replacement. Absolutely terrible support. So we haven't managed to print a thing and nobody is willing to replace it or supply a new main board.

[@bassmanilil7463]

Great review, I've learn a lot! Just bought it! The tip with the G29 code is exellent. Can you give more advices like this for beginners.

[@pablodiaz6885]

Hello, I have a query. How tall is the Creality Ender 3 S1 PLUS printer with the filament roll attached? Thank you

[@memcbride]

Do you have a recommendation for the best way to upgrade the Ender 3 S1 Plus Hotend to handle 300 degree print temperatures? Also would be interested in any other upgrades you would recommend for this model since you filmed this GREAT Video. I just ordered one with the Laser Engraving Kit and should be arriving tomorrow.

[@kingztalk]

Great video I just ordered a 3s1 after watching this video can you talk about 3d modeling in Pacific how to change grid on the Crete into something like open letters of the alphabet

[@farrelcoetzee2795]

What!! Did you just make my day? You can increase the z-height to 320mm with an "M211 S0" slicer start-code? Does it stop automatically at 320mm if I set the Z-Height in the slicer to 320mm or is manual intervention required? I measured the max height with a ruler. The glass bed up to the nozzle with the z-axis maxed out to the top and measuring just shy of 310mm? Please let us know how. Thanks.

[@coreyevans9543]

This was very helpful. Thanks young lady.

[@rosamariabetancourtleal9133]

Hello Aurora, please help, I have an Ender 3 S1 pro printer. I changed the nozzle and when I try to level the bed, it lowers the extruder and the nozzle sticks against the bed and makes a very ugly noise, the cr touch works, I put a book on the bed and it did those 2 steps well. I raise the z axis. But when I tell him to level again he crashes into the bed. And raising the z-axis while it's making noise from being in contact with the bed makes me afraid to wait so long for the z-axis adjustment window to activate. I don't know if the limit switch needs to be adjusted. Thanks in advance 🤗

[@samuelmike9662]

what will need to be done to this printer t make it 300 C capable will just adding a heat break do it or do you also have to flash the firmwear. I really like this printer but I need it to be capable of 300c

[@eddiemcbrian2584]

Thanks Aurora for your excellent review, i would like to know if i upgrade the nozzle of this particular 3d printer is it possible to use Carbon Fiber filaments without issues?

[@dabreck]

Очень крутой обзор! Я узнал всё что хотел, спасибо большое! 💖

[@vitorfragos0]

Love watching your videos. Thanks!

[@MASommese]

Aurora…. What do I need to do to be able to use a truckload of 3mm since all 3 of my printers are Anycubic Kobra 2 pro and on Plus…. Can I use the Creality S1 Plus to run 3mm through? Help please!!

[@kingztalk]

Great video I just ordered a 3s1 after watching this video I hope this is the best printer for the value can you talk about 3d modeling in Pacific how to change grid on the Crete into something like open letters of the alphabet

[@sailork3506]

If you did a video on how to upgrade to 300C, you would be helping a lot of people. Heat break, thermister, perhaps hot end. But the real problem is the firmware changes...... How to do the firmware changes?

[@shakethataxe3403]

Hi, do you have any links to buy the magnetic plate for this printer ? I didnt find a single one on internet

[@alanwright5437]

Having Levelling issues with my Plus, half way through a 4 hour print the nozzle starts to dig into the model at one end only, any suggestions on this problem. Thanks.

[@WillChnL]

Hi Aurora, I love your channel, I have a Sidewinder X2, do you think worth the change to the S1 Plus? Thanks

[@MattyTxp]

Hello I am new to 3d printing and have made successful prints. I want to ask about the retraction distance and speed and why change the values. Thank you!

[@DaddyGoodstick]

Very informative and well delivered 🙂

[@KnotHead1008]

How does it handle the sonic pad?

[@johnmcdonald3231]

I’ve upgraded my Ender 3 V2 to the Sprite Pro extruder is there a file or place to purchase the filament holder with sensor mount? I have no way to mount my existing sensor.

[@forkerion]

Which power voltage should I set in Europe? I have an Artillery Genius that uses 220, for reference.

[@monsterstorm78]

any pros or cons wit this printer ?

[@MASommese]

Can you recommend the best (under $500) plus printer that will run 3mm?

[@n6jwp]

Nice videos. I do have a question. As you were printing different items and using different filaments I understood why you changed temps, but I didn't understand why you would turn on or off cooling? Can you explain? Thanks

[@AuroraTech]

It just depends on what type of materials you are printing. For printing PLA, it's better to turn on 100% cooling after the first few layers. But when printing PETG, ABS, Nylon, or other higher temperature materials, it's better to turn off cooling or turn it down to 40% or lower to improve print quality, layer adhesion, and reduce the change of warping.

[@MrXbeast4]

Need an in-depth video of leveling cause that’s my main issue with this machine

[@twall667]

ABS with no ventilation??

[@91722854]

with the price of S1 plus, is it just better to go for ender 5 pro/ plus instead?

[@alanwright5437]

Thanks for a great review.

[@cobusgrobler662]

Thank for the great review. What is the actual size of the bed in case a person want to to add for example a Wham Bam build plate?

[@oldguyonabudget7636]

I have an Ender 3 S1 Plus. It is not my first printer. I have had a CR-10s for a few years. The Ender is new and I have had it about a week or so. I can't seem to get the bed to be consistently level. I can set my bed level using manual and auto level and run a print and, after my print, check my level on the manual mode and it will be too tight even though it was set right prior to making one print. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

[@ThreeLiner]

Nice Review! Thanks for the video Aurora and Helios! Would you guys be able to cover the WhamBam Mutant v2 at some point? I know you guys primarily cover FDM, but also other similar tech like laser engraving. Seems like something all Ender 3 variants could benefit from in terms of quick swapping tool heads. Thanks!

[@giggoodilaser6481]

Could you please tell me why you turned off the cooling system for some of your projects? I know nothing about 3D printers, and my knowledge is only limited to Laser machines. I'm interested in adding a 3D printer to my hobbies business. Also, Is that a good fit machine to use only for small projects? Thank you so much.

[@scottm5425]

Very good review. Seems a great printer.

[@enricobononi8655]

next one i guess will be final one.....big volume and finally with the high temp extruder....they could have put directly on this machine but i think they want to milk more money

[@art.generalist]

How to make it print 300C ? Where find that firmware or how to create bin file ?

[@Daniel_Keinan]

Hi I need your help. I am interested in entering the field of 3D printing and am debating whether to buy the ender 3 s1 pro or the cr10 smart pro and I need to know if the sonic pad works and doubles the speed in the cr10 smart pro as well?

[@emphak]

Why rétraction distance to 0.8 ?

[@labelproatlanticbenelux3878]

How does this compare to the Ender 5 Plus?

[@VitalyBrusentsev]

Impressive, so you were able to print nylon at 250 degrees on a heat break with PTFE tubing? Any concerns about it melting?

[@AuroraTech]

As PTFE tube can hold up to 260C and better quality Capricorn claims hold up to 280C, I think printing the Nylon should be fine. When I print ABS, Nylon or Polycarbonate, I use my laser engraver ventilation duct and fan to exhaust air outside my garage.

[@austinvulcano1513]

Can you link the Big Ben clock tower link? Love your videos!

[@AuroraTech]

Yes, I put it under the video description.

[@TheIMobile]

I see when you added the G29 ABL code there wasn't much else. when I go into cura i use the same printer as you and after my g28 code there's a lot more stuff G1 codes about lifting the nozzle and start positions after the G28 did you delete this? I'm new to this game and am struggling with the tech side of it. I was going to copy your settings in cura but mine look different. Great review I'm glad I came across your channel, now subscribed

[@afbigfish1]

Im 99.9% sure this is going to be my first 3d printer. is there anything better at the same price point?

[@jorgevillar7]

Could you give me a recommendation please, since I have seen many rewiews but even so I have doubts, which printer would you recommend? ender 3 s1 plus or cr-10 smart? What interests me most is the quality of the printing and also the quick configuration to be able to print

[@bumbarabun]

Is it still that pesky TMC2208?

[@davidroberts5535]

10 minutes to assemble? Ha ha. I’m a noob and it took me at least a hour plus 2 teens helping me. The blind leading the blind I guess. Good video.

[@xierxu]

I am new to print. How’d you know the proper temperatures?

[@ferst5937]

Creality Ender-3 S1 Pro or plus?

[@stephan.scharf]

thumbs up before viewing!

[@زانغت_ساما]

So you recommand This over the s1 pro

[@AuroraTech]

The S1 pro can print at 300C so you can print PA-CF and PC-CF. This S1 plus is a larger S1, just printing at 260C. Just depending on what you need to print.

[@ВованГринвуд]

Умничка, хороший ролик.👍

[@syncprism6283]

is it possible to upgrade the heat break to the titanium one as seen on s1pro to this s1 plus, to allow printing at 300deg for some materials?

[@syncprism6283]

to be more specific, do we only need to replace the heat break with a titanium one, or also other upgrades to the extruder assembly?,

[@RevyZero]

Can the titanium throat tube from the s1 pro be directly swapped to the s1 plus?

[@AuroraTech]

Yes, but you still need to upgrade the thermistor and heater block, as well as the firmware source code to change the nozzle max temp.

[@ajlbeer]

Thanks for another fantastic review. If #Creality is listening, these two geniuses at Aurora Tech are the ones who compelled me to order my S1 Plus :) Oh by the way, did you have to cut notches in that smooth PEI sheet you used? Or did you just attach it resting slightly offset from the screws in the back of the bed?

[@AuroraTech]

I just let it offset from the screws, I didn't cut it as I still want to use it on other printers.

[@SinnSlainte]

Do the models remove easily from the bed after printing? Are you a fan of glass beds?

[@AuroraTech]

Not as easy as the PEI textured sheet, but as it's flexible, I don't have any issues when removing prints.

[@d2enigma]

Is there a reason for adding G29 instead of M420 S1 in start GCode?

[@AuroraTech]

G29 will do auto bed leveling every time you start a print. M420 S1 will load the last saved mesh data instead of redoing auto bed leveling.

[@Shadigun00]

what speed did u use for the tpu?

[@Scriven42]

There was a perfect place for a "Wheels on the bus go round and round" joke, but that's more of a Dad joke...

[@bedorx]

Nice Content Thank you :)🤗

[@RevyZero]

What brand glue stick do you prefer to use?

[@AuroraTech]

Elmer's Craft Bond Extra-Strength Glue Stick $3.25 (0.88oz), it's better than regular purple glue. amzn.to/3UEnlYC

[@RevyZero]

Thanks grabbed one today! I’ve never used glue before but when you do do you only use it on a smooth surface?

[@AuroraTech]

I also use it on textured PEI sheet, I will show it in my next video FLSUN V400 this week.

[@RevyZero]

@@AuroraTech look forward to watching, since making that comment i tried it on my stock ender 3 pro textured sheet and it worked great for abs! side note, do you know if the usb c port on the s1 plus can be used to adapt usb-c to a usb thumb drive?

[@crazyethanyeahyeah]

Great video! I was wondering if you could upgrade the Creality Ender 3 S1 plus with the Sprite Extruder Pro Kit 300℃ ?

[@RB-yq7qv]

Well done.

[@fooman2108]

I know it is not a bamboo but I get used to people talking about the 14 minute benchy that monster can do....LOL

[@cstategrad99]

I’m 99% sure Bambu will have a 300 or 350mm version out within a year. I can’t wait to get the X1C soon!

[@varazir]

How is the cooling when it's from one side ?

[@AuroraTech]

The cooling is fine, it's from the front like Prusa MK3S+

[@varazir]

@@AuroraTech okay, tried overhangs in different directions?

[@marcelnarita6916]

You're better off getting a cr-10 smart pro, has the PEI, the titanium heatbreak and larger bed

[@RevyZero]

The cr-10 has a taller build (100 extra mm) volume but they both have a 300x300 bed. Also is the pei and the titanium heat break worth the extra $300?

[@mgrenell]

What have I got myself into as a noob? Yaaaa