Mustang Stock Suspension Modification

[@SMS-wu1th]

Many years ago at a Cougar show got to talk to a Ford Engineer who worked there when the 1967's were getting tooled up for production. He said there was a big debate about the alignment specs for the Cougar/Mustang line. Basically the concern was Grandma being able to park her 67 6 cylinder manual steering Mustang. This is why they put so little caster in. The debate was if to have a separate spec with more caster for power steering cars, but that would have meant setting up a second alignment station just for power steering cars and was deemed too expense to do. So we all got stuck with cars that wondered all over at speed. Glad to see this video. A lot of people don't realize these cars can handle a lot better than they think with a few simple changes.

[@AutoRestoMod]

Thanks for the kind words

[@Ozkartez]

That makes total sense.

[@FE428Power]

Installing the roller idler arm, in conjunction with the roller spring perches from Open Tracker Racing really add to the package. Thanks for your videos!

[@FE428Power]

Thanks!

[@kerrymcdonagh1327]

Good to see that you like what we Aussies do to trick up our suspensions. I set up early Mustang suspensions (up to 1973) to have 0.5 degrees of negative camber, 3mm (1/8") toe in and 8 degrees of caster. The caster setup on early Fords (and other manufactures) was for cross ply tyres (tires) the increase in caster is for radials and as radial tyres developed, the caster increased. Our 69 Mustang is stock suspension set up to the specs above with Koni adjustable shocks. It is a great road car and no slouch on the track. As a Ferguson tractor owner (1951 TEA20) I look forward to the tractor video.

[@jimmynance8324]

Great information in one concise video. I just finished completely rebuilding the front end on my 67 Mustang and used the information that was contained in several of the previous videos. This ties it all back together and I will be checking back over it to make sure I covered all the points like I intended. We certainly appreciate your time and knowledge.

[@garyhamlin8885]

The Z-Ray trans am lower brace is also a great addition to the early Mustang. The part is built well and fit great in my 64.5! Thanks for the great content!

[@brianwaskow5910]

I was wondering about your You-Tube plaque and I noticed it on the wall. Congratulations.

[@AutoRestoMod]

We actually are slowly chipping at a 100k sub video, but things are very busy lately.

[@QualityClassics]

I totally concur with this video! Great job and well explained 👍🏻

[@RScesium]

I did the Shelby drop on my 1968 mustang and the improvement in handling was amazing. Russ

[@et76039]

Strongly agree on the export brace recommendation. The flexing needed for installation can be mind boggling.

[@Paulie1232]

Beautiful information 😊

[@tomberan1282]

👏👏👏. Great video consolidating a ton of information. And yes the hydraulic schlock’s are great! I errored in going single adjustable on the rear of my Fairlane, I now have double adjustable on the front and those ( double adjustable) offer far better tuning.

[@RealWorldGarage]

Excellent advice here Jeff!!! I added this to one of my playlists on classic car maintenance and I’ll be adding it to my 64 Comet playlist.

[@johnbarker5009]

This is a really good video. One of the things I like about the Falcon-chassis cars is that you can make substantial improvements without spending a fortune, taking the car off the road for an extended period of time, and you can budget in stages. You're getting views, btw. Last night I saw a link to a video you did something like 8 years ago on the Shelby/Arning drop as part of a conversation about improving the suspension on Mavericks and Comets.

[@stephenhotzjustdriveit]

I love my opentracker roller spring perches. I will be adding them to my 67 fastback. I also love my Viking shocks, I want a set for the fastback as well.

[@428eliminator3]

Good one Jeff! 👍👍

[@bigmike2149]

Great content Jeff! I ended up with the Koni Classics on my 1969 Mach 1 with the 620lb rated springs.

[@bobsbarnworkshop]

Back in 2005 I got a complete suspension kit from Grab-A-Trak for my 67 Mustang convertible which included both upper and lower front control arms, oversized front and rear anti-sway bars, higher rate front coil and rear leaf springs, all the associated hardware, polyurethane bushings for everything and gas shocks . She handles like a Porsche now! Lots of knuckle busting work however! Back then I think it cost $895 total!?

[@dougputthoff6629]

Hey, Jeff. I have a popping on the front of my 71 Torino. I have an RRS phase 2 system upfront and all new components (control arms, bushings) to include RRS spherical bearing caster arms. The suspension pops at low speed sharp turns (driveways, parking spots) when the wheel is cranked all the way one way or the other. My theory is that the sway bar end links are popping where they screw into the control arms. When I replaced my control arms, they cam with small metal cups that I believe get sandwiched between the end link bushings on the top and bottom of the control arm. Here's my question: are these cups supposed to be welded to the control arm or loose? Nice work, by the way.

[@terrycarter8929]

Thanx for the a arm drop upgrade. After 33 years of owning my 1964 Mercury Comet Caliente and buying all the magazines that had performance upgrades I'm surprised I have never heard of that! Will that brace that goes under the pan between the frame work on the 1964 chassis? I know the engine mounts are different than the later chassis. Don't forget to add the Comet to your Mustang and Falcon examples lol. I'm crazy about my Mercury's.

[@charlyreyesolivares197]

SALUDOS MUY AMABLE POR LA INFORMACION 👍👍👍

[@jeffdriver3000]

If you have a export brace on a mustang is there a need for a monte carlo bar also?

[@aguyinnc2865]

Been doing some work to my '73 Mach 1, Found out that the tires on it were going on 18 years old, (even though the tread looked new!) so I replaced the tires, got new shocks from Scott Drake, and replaced the pitman arm ( boy was that thing a booger to get off!). Anyway, been having a problem with the steering box leaking fluid, and more loss motion than I want, even though the adjustment screw is run all the way in. Changing the pitman arm did help that. I've been trying to figure out where to get a new quality steering box, as I have read online that the reman models do not hold up well. Would love to go to rack and pinion, but that's just not in line with current funding. Any suggestions? I know you can get rebuild kits, but I think that just covers new seals.

[@67Stang]

Thanks for sharing this information.

[@brianwaskow5910]

Great Info!😃

[@alicenfred]

I have a 69 Ranchero, would adding the 3/8" shims on the front of the upper A arm help?

[@MedicatedOMO]

Im trying to find my lost 1970 Monte Carlo. My vin shows up as a 2004 travel trailer. How can I get past this. The car was lost 20 years ago. HELP!

[@dougitout2326]

How would I know if my 1968 Torino will benefit from the Shelby Drop?

[@AutoRestoMod]

It will. The Shelby Drop will really only effect two things: camber change in the suspension (keeping the tires planted as flat as possible in a corner) and lowering the car a bit--usually around 3/4 inch.

[@Mountian-Zen]

👍👍

[@GeneralHowToTutorials]

Why does your website have popups and malware?

[@AutoRestoMod]

Our website got hacked and we just don't have the resources to fix it right now unfortunately.

[@GeneralHowToTutorials]

@@AutoRestoMod ah, okay. Thanks for letting me know so I can steer clear at the moment. Sorry that happened to y'all. Keep up the awesome work you have been doing.

[@RealWorldGarage]

By the way 13 go’s aren’t good for blood pressure 🤷‍♂️