QA1 Suspension Review

[@millenbop]

Thanks, Andy, I love these follow-up videos. Also very nice to see some driving and listening to that beautiful motor!

[@AndyKruseChannel]

Thanks!

[@wolfthornhawkridge5705]

Love your technical videos, although, glad to see you out enjoying your car!

[@AndyKruseChannel]

Thanks!

[@JL-og9gm]

Love your channel. I have a suggestion. The way to have your cake and eat it too, is to put lighter (softer) springs in your car. This will make your ride MUCH more comfortable. But, with large antiroll bar(s), you can still keep your car flat in the corners. This lighter the springs are, the easier they follow the terrain and transmit fewer bumps to the car. And, with coilovers, it's very easier to adjust the ride height to where you want it. This is exactly the formula used by Herb Adams in his "Chassis Engineering" book. Since your rear springs are already stock, you would only need to lighten the front springs.

[@AndyKruseChannel]

That's the problem, I have gotten my cake and eaten it, that's why I'm a little overweight right now. The spring rate for the springs on these coilovers is almost half of the performance springs I just removed, so I'm not sure going lower will get me there. Plus, I have the lightest spring rate that QA1 makes, but they have stiffer springs. I'm not interested in custom spring rates at this time.

[@JL-og9gm]

@@AndyKruseChannel I can sympathize with you about the cake! Regarding the springs, the stock spring rate for your year is 258#/in and the GT was 291#/in. At 350#/in currently, it's very likely that is causing the harshness you are feeling. I know those shocks don't come as a set with any lighter springs, but they may have some lighter ones that fit that they offer separately. It couldn't hurt to ask. Also, if you can tell me the compressed spring length of the spring with the vehicle weight on them while sitting in your garage, I can calculate your springs' natural frequency. This will tell you for sure where you are in the spectrum of spring stiffness, and the best part...it's free! If it's way to the stiff side of the spectrum, you'll know that it's the springs and not the damping (shock) adjustments.

[@AndyKruseChannel]

It looks like I was mistaken, I was thinking the 600 lb springs (I was thinking it was 600 lb/in) that were on the car was the spring rate, but it looks like it was around 280lb/in, so my new springs are stiffer as you described. I appreciate the offer, but after working with QA1 on what I should get for this car, I'm going to stick with their recommendation. :)

[@JL-og9gm]

@@AndyKruseChannel No problem. My best guess, without knowing the compressed spring height on your car, is that 280-300#/in is probably about right, especially since your engine is quite a bit lighter than stock with the aluminum heads and intake. Love your channel. Keep up the good work!

[@SlowInFastOut1776]

The great thing about tuning suspension is it means you get to drive the car more for “research”.

[@AndyKruseChannel]

I'm digging the research, but it would be better to have someone drive it that knows what they're doing and can help explain what the changes mean. :)

[@oleandreasjensen5263]

Exellent video and info on how these parts and set ups work. Thank you Andy for a superb video !

[@AndyKruseChannel]

No problem, and thanks for the support!

[@garyhamlin8885]

Glad you like the upgrades! I have Global West in my 64.5. I have not been able to make any long drives yet but sure feels better than the stock stuff on short runs.

[@AndyKruseChannel]

Yeah,. the GW control arms are on my list of potential parts. Glad to hear that people are liking them. :)

[@Ron06NL]

On my ‘65 I have Koni classics (orange, little adjustable). Have been experimenting with the adjustments last years. Today for me works fine, front shock as softest as can be, and the back shocks as stiffest what possible is. In the front I have standard springs and in the rear leaf springs. With a little camber of -0,15 degrees is driving and turn corners very good. Had first camber 0 degrees, but with -0,15 is cornering much better. I was also thinking about the QA1 DA but the current settings are great, for me.

[@AndyKruseChannel]

The Koni shocks are a great option for most people. I am looking for a little more performance from my setup, as well as more adjustability, so these QA1 units are perfect. I still need some more seat time to get these dialed in, but I'll get there. :)

[@65_347FB]

Nice! I went with a similar set up - DA QA1s in the rear and DA Viking coilovers in the front. Do you have more room to drop it down if you wanted?

[@AndyKruseChannel]

Yes, roughly an inch more in the front, but with my tire size it would be too much of a drop and everything would rub. Skinnier tires and then we can drop her down! :)

[@ericsmith1953]

Love it, your car is sounding great!

[@AndyKruseChannel]

Thank you!!

[@tomberan1282]

Truly enjoying your channel. I have a 69 Fairlane that I have done, or will be doing many of the same changes or improvements. In my case I currently have a 302 but recently picked up a 351W roller block, with the 351W I’ll be looking to add a TREMEC 5-speed and replace the rear gear to a traction lok with 3:73 gears. I am running the same QA1s in the rear of my Fairlane with an Addco, 7/8” sway bar. Upfront I am running TCP Total Control Products coil over conversion with the tubular adjustable control arms, the upper anrms included the Shelby Drop ( that’s an option) and 450# springs in front with hydraulic adjustable shocks, very much like the QA1s. With the improved suspension I now need to replace the steering box with a rack, the box is far too slow. I believe you’re running a rack on your Mustang ? Again, an enjoyable watch and nice ride you have there

[@AndyKruseChannel]

Thanks for the support! Yes, I am running the stock Mustang steering box. I haven't given much thought into replacing/upgrading it as I have not reached the point where it is the weak link or holding back noticeable handling performance (even though it might be). :)

[@TexarkanaPrepper]

Thanks for another awesome video. I bought Viking. What do you think about them? I have the del-a-lum bushings from global west in my rear springs which is supposed to do the same thing as pan hard bar. Have you heard of them? My car is currently in restoration and I haven’t tried anything out yet. Doug at Global West was very helpful. Have you ever talked to him?

[@AndyKruseChannel]

Viking was on the list of possible options, but the guys at QA1 were super great to work with and gave me all the help I needed. I'm not convinced upgraded bushings in a Leaf kit could replace a Panhard Bar (or watts link) because if it was true, then the industry would have moved in that direction because it's way way cheaper to do that than actually support the lateral movement of the axle. I would believe they offer more support that standard rubber bushings, but the lateral loads the axle can experience will squish those bushings until they don't move anymore, then it will transfer into bending the shackles, and lastly it would affect the brackets holding all the leaf pieces together. Those bushing are definitely and upgrade for someone that just plans to cruise, but I want a little more from my car in the corners, so it's a Panhard Bar for me! :)

[@VansenJenessa]

Great vids! CANADIAN SUPERMAN APPROVES

[@AndyKruseChannel]

Awesome, thanks for the support!

[@SmackeysGarage]

I'm thinking about doing the same with QA1 coil overs. I really like the idea of more adjustability up front rather than trying to cut springs to get the ride height I want.

[@AndyKruseChannel]

Sounds like we just found your next video. :)

[@joepawling4735]

Have you checked out CHRIS Alston suspension? He’s around the Sacramento California area. I have a 73 mustang convertible and I watched a guy auto edits change the front and rear suspension to a Chris Alston set up. I would like to do exactly the same thing as him. 12:59

[@AndyKruseChannel]

The Panhard Bar I have is a mashup of Chris Alston parts and Maier Racing parts. :)

[@PanditaP]

Do you have any driveline vibration issues ever since you lowered your car and instralled the T5?

[@AndyKruseChannel]

Nope. :)

[@michaelpope1029]

Do you have power steering? If not, Are you planning to install it in? What are your thoughts, pros & Cons.

[@AndyKruseChannel]

No power steering. I'm on the fence about it. I would like a little extra help while turn (especially at slower speeds), but I also like how much less cluttered the engine bay is. Electric power steering might be an option, but I don't think it will work with my Ididit tilt column. :)

[@bobmcdougal7501]

Ah, no power steering is needed on our light cars. Swapping to manual steering is one of the best mods I've done to my 69 Mach 1. The best was 4 wheel coil overs.😮

[@pmarable12345]

Classic performance has the best suspension and brakes for the money. I highly recommend them. Give them a try, you won't be sorry

[@AndyKruseChannel]

Thanks for the heads up. 🙂

[@bg551222]

Street or Track control arms with adjustable strut rods on mine and couldn't be happier. Not cheap though.

[@AndyKruseChannel]

Yeah, upper and lower control arms are on the list, and they're not cheap if someone wants to go with an improved aftermarket option. :)

[@chevroletbelair1]

would you buy the double adjustable again or only the compression adjustable ones?

[@AndyKruseChannel]

I would still buy the double adjustable, I like having that ability to adjust the car to fit me. :)

[@davevan8864]

Warning my OPINION only. But my opinions after driving my 1966 Mustang 2+2 since 1975!! Daily driver from 1975 to 1986. Your rear suspension would be considered a VERY good set up for a SCCA Club race car. Plenty for the street. The 8 inch rear is plenty stout for up to 400 HP. If anything maybe new gears (ring and pinion) When I did the restore on my 66 in 2019 all I did to the front was add disk brakes, All new upper and lower control arm, strut bushings, springs and tie rod ends. All MOOG parts if I could get them. I did not want to do the Shelby drop or tube arms. I was building my car as if it COULD have come from the factory this way. You have a nice car. There are always things that could be done. Project cars are never done. But it's your call as to how far into a full custom and how far from stock you want to go.....that's the great thing about the hobby....everyone can pick their own level. Thx

[@AndyKruseChannel]

Yep, the car is getting much closer to being able to compete at the SCCA level. :)

[@alanhill5513]

@@AndyKruseChannel Sir I absolutely love your channel. I put this comment here so it wouldn’t be a main comment. I am no expert but I have a fair amount of experience with each generation of Mustang suspension. I have concerns about the combination of a Pan hard bar that has a unavoidable arc in its operation that forces in a sideways direction. I believe the combination places your suspension in a bind at ALL times.

[@AndyKruseChannel]

@@alanhill5513 Yes and no. The bar is adjusted when the car is on the ground so that it's horizontal and therefore not putting the suspension under any binding load. As the axle travels up and down, there is a subtle arc that the bar allows the axle to travel in, but it has a very large radius and therefore the arc length of the travel path is mostly straight. But this has all been figured out by people much smarter than me decades ago, so if there was a problem, people would not use Panhard bars. While a Watts Links can provide the same lateral support than a Panhard bar without the arc travel path, it's a much larger investment in time, money, and installation. Lastly, think about the lateral loads on the suspension when the car is going through a normal corner (not even fast) without a Panhard bar, those loads on the suspension are much higher and can even cause the tires to rub inside the quarter panels. That's one of the reason why I added the bar. :)

[@corwingraves6808]

Car sounds fantastic, especially at idle.

[@AndyKruseChannel]

Thanks, I love hearing that! :)

[@williamguillIII]

Do you think that 1/8th of an inch could be due to the concrete not being level?

[@AndyKruseChannel]

Nah, the concrete in the garage is pretty flat and level. The frame may be tweaked, the car has been about an 1/8" lower on the driver side since I bought it and cut the lowering springs a while back. Some say to make the driver's side about an 1/8" taller to compensate for the driver. :)

[@rodneykite8862]

More driving videos !!!!!!

[@AndyKruseChannel]

Working on it Brotha! :)

[@frankgonzalez6872]

What steering column and wheel are you using

[@AndyKruseChannel]

An adjustable unit from Ididit Columns. 🙂

[@frankieprado3211]

Global west upper and lower control arms. They still bolt up to your coil overs!

[@AndyKruseChannel]

Yes, they're near the top of a short list. :)

[@frankieprado3211]

@@AndyKruseChannel what's your list?

[@AndyKruseChannel]

Can't say, it's super secret. :)

[@frankieprado3211]

@Andy Kruse I'll be waiting for your video! I have that qa1 coilovers like you with all global west components on my 69 mustang. Let me know if you want pictures of the set up

[@abbastheld]

Would you ever sell this car?

[@AndyKruseChannel]

I don't know, I don't really want to sell it. But if a guy offered the right price.....

[@MrJoea11]

I went with spc upper control with Vikings coil overs and stock lowers. If I didn’t all over again I would’ve done street or track. For lowers you can use street or track. Open tracker racing or global west have some good roller lowers arms.

[@MrJoea11]

Mike Maiers also has a good setups.

[@AndyKruseChannel]

All those brands are on my list for review, but I'm leaning towards Mike's stuff, he doesn't mess around!! :)

[@Donny.C.wlWilliams]

👍🏿👌🏾

[@AndyKruseChannel]

👍🏻

[@zzddzzzz]

I'm currently trying the drop spindles on my falcon, from what I hear it improves handling in turns..

[@AndyKruseChannel]

I haven’t really looked at those, good luck with the install!

[@SpaceCoastFlights]

nice ride and gr8 vids, you might like these; Scott Drake Emblems C3OZ-16228-347 and Scott Drake Emblems C5ZZ-16228-B

[@AndyKruseChannel]

I was looking into them, then I found out the previous owner glued the emblems currently on the car with some sort of NASA-grade glue. If I try and remove the emblems it will ruin the paint. :(