Avoid This VW TSI 2.0 Turbo Engine Disaster

[@josh8106]

Interesting, I didn’t know this could happen on this engine. I know this is a common issue on the BMW N52 engine as well. On that engine, the gasket for the oil filter housing leaks easily. It drips directly on the accessory belt and the same thing happens where it gets sucked into the engine

[@motorcarnut]

Really? I haven't seen one yet on the N55 or the N20. Crazy though!

[@shawnkane7152]

Blew a snowmobile up that way before. Belt blew and wedged into the seal causing the engine to suck air and poof!🇺🇸🙏

[@motorcarnut]

Wow,

[@sanyopoweraid1]

I have an oil leak coming from the lower part of the upper timing cover or somewhere on the lower timing cover. I'm not losing much oil between oil changes but I am seeking annoying little puddles on my driveway. My mechanic tells me "it's a VW, sometimes you gotta live with these things." It seems like there's no oil on the serpentine belt. Do you think it's still a good idea to swap out the belt every now and then? Seems like a cheap preventative measure, short of fixing the leak?

[@motorcarnut]

Absolutely ! You should get a new mechanic they don't leak because they are VWs, lame excuses. That upper timing cover is not that hard to do if you are handy with my video guidance.

[@sanyopoweraid1]

@@motorcarnut Thanks a lot. That's my next project. I'll be watching your video on the upper timing cover for guidance.

[@motorcarnut]

Sure, no problem and good luck!

[@anouarben3056]

😊Thanks

[@motorcarnut]

You're welcome!

[@moparmtb360]

So do these crankcase run high crankcase vacuum? And that is then pulling the material into the seal?

[@motorcarnut]

When There is a problem they do. Normally they run near 0 vacuum in the crankcase when running without problems.

[@attocoulomb]

What year did VW update the tensioner?

[@motorcarnut]

2013 and up

[@gee3883]

Hi mate, do you have any idea on milage of these engines once the pistons have been replaced. As you might remember I asked questions on lots of your vids so just wondered about your views. My engine will have had a new chain , tensioner guides etc and now i'm planning on pistons and main seal etc. Basically is it worth the effort ? cheers

[@motorcarnut]

Once, all the quirks are fixed these engines will last 2 hundred thousand miles more. I love them.

[@sandinheaven]

I was told that mines had a coolant leak, fixed that, then a oil leak from the camshaft magnet, replaced those. Then the camshaft sensor, replaced that. Then the coolant was leaking and bubbling from the reserve. Then was told my head gasket must be blown because the diagnostic test kept giving misfires on 3&4? So I put a bottle of k seal head gasket sealer in the coolant reserve. The car started and still wouldn't stay running without my foot on the peddle but sounded smoother. Then it shut off and would not start back up. It makes the sound like it straining to "turn over". The initial problem was coolant leaking from a bad hose. Then it would overheat, and once it would start the idle hand would flicker up and down and then it would shut off. Help, any suggestions to what may be the problem and what I might have caused? 🙏🏼

[@motorcarnut]

It sounds like it could be an issue with the timing chain tensioner, cam bridge, oil control valve etc, it would be best to get it checked out by a mechanic that knows VWs as it can be many problems including a head gasket problem from the over heating.

[@sandinheaven]

@@motorcarnut ty👍🏼

[@motorcarnut]

@sandinheaven no problem

[@MysteryScienceGaming]

Hello, can you give me your opinion on this. I had to replace water pump and used your videos, it was great! thank you so much. While I was in there I cleaned by injectors, and walnut shell blasted the valve stems and ports. They looked like they were brand new. The car was getting excellent MPG too. After a few hundred miles a warning about fuel pressure came up but my wife kept driving the car. Then around 2000-3000 miles later car wouldn't turn on and fuel was leaking everywhere. I took everything out and noticed the o-ring of one the injectors was blown apart. Also, I was surprised how dirty the valve stems were already after just a few thousand miles, is that normal? The tips of the injectors were all dirty again too. Is this a sign of another problem, like oil leaking in maybe? The injector with the dirtiest tip is also the one that failed, could it be clogged and maybe that's why the o-ring blew out? Any ideas or should I buy new injectors and just put it all back together. Car has 120k miles on it. Thank you for your time.

[@DeepakKumar-lv4te]

You don't say what car/engine it is. did you replace the o rings on the injectors while you were there (there would be a couple I believe) ? (I'm not a mech btw). I hear that has to be done very carefully. Also, how are those injectors held down, is it one one side with a bolt or both sides? There is a theory that on PD engines the one side bolted arrangement makes the injector "lean over" creating a leak on its other side. And even a hammering action by the pressure in those (non common rail) injectors causing metal hardening and then cracks on the head. Of course it might just be the injector failed but that's not a great explanation I know. Good luck.

[@motorcarnut]

I’m glad my videos got you back on the road! So, yes and no referring to the carbon build up. Direct injection engine create excessive carbon build up by their design. But excessive in only a couple of thousand miles concerns me a little. These engines also can have piston ring problems especially the oil control rings if oil changes are not done on time. As far as the o ring blowing out, never had one unless it was deteriorated when you installed it. And you probably know the fuel injectors have to go in their slots in the cylinder head or they won’t be fully seated. I would clean valves again install new o rings clean the fuel injector tips and probably everything will work its way in with some mileage on the vehicle. Remember if you didn’t have that fuel leak you would be still driving the vehicle and would never know the intake ports condition especially if you don’t do this for a living.

[@MysteryScienceGaming]

@@motorcarnut Thank you for the reply! When I installed the injectors I put them all in the manifold and then tried to plug them into the cylinder head and did have issues, after a few attempts I got it in but now I wonder if it wasn't in all the way or maybe I messed up the compression sleeve by pulling it out 2 or 3 times. Is the proper way to put the injector tips into the head first then put the manifold on over the injector O-rings? I think read it is but not sure.

[@motorcarnut]

I install the injectors on the intake manifold assembly first with all electrical connections then slide it in the cylinder head making sure it’s seated flush before tightening screws. Make sure the metal collars are installed on the injectors that’s what holds them in the head.

[@MysteryScienceGaming]

@@motorcarnut Ok cool, I got a kit with new o-rings and compression sleeves etc so I'm gonna give it a shot. Is there any trick to make sure the injectors are in the right position so they fit into the notch on cylinder head? That is what I had trouble with last time.