Axial SCX10 - Axial Aluminum Links upgrade

Here's a look at a needed upgrade to any RTR SCX10. The AXI30550 aluminum links from Axial for any longer wheel base (12.3") SCX10 like the Trail Honcho. Expect to pay about $65 retail for these. This kit allows for fitment of both 3 link and 4 link uppers but does not include the optional 4 link adapter/truss (which can be foound in both the kit/RTR extra parts bag). As an added bonus, this kit DOES include both steering links!
-----------------------------------------------
Connect with The RCNetwork
-----------------------------------------------
Don't miss out on more RC blogs, pics, and newsletter from
TheRCNetwork.com. Get the stuff that's not on KZbin!
Subscribe today: www.thercnetwor...
Instagram: / the_rcnetwork
Facebook: / theofficialrcnetwork
---------------------------------------------------
The RCNetwork Decals Are Here!
---------------------------------------------------
Click to Shop: www.thercnetwor...
Here's where I got it:
amzn.to/2dAZFic
Need instructions? Click here:
docs.axialracin...
------------------------
My Video Gear
------------------------
Studio Camera: amzn.to/2a0que9
Studio Tripod: amzn.to/29VIZ89
Studio Lights: amzn.to/2a4Ecmb
SD Cards for Studio Cam: amzn.to/2acPqSS
Lavalier Mic: amzn.to/2acOjCO
Action Camera: amzn.to/2a94Sfv
Action Mic: amzn.to/2aoZOpF
SD Cards for Action Cam: amzn.to/2a946PB
“TheRCNetwork.com is a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for sites to earn advertising fees by advertising and linking to Amazon.com.”

[@TheRCNetwork]

That's the one I have too. In your parts bag, there will be a "W" looking plastic part and some lower links (ball ends too). That's what you'll need to pull from the bag. Then remove the wishbone looking "3" link that I showed in the video from the front and install the parts form the bag. I needed extra screws and lock nuts to make it all happen though. You van also refer to your manual or take a look at the rear set up, as that's what you need to copy for the front.

[@TheRCNetwork]

Glad I could help! I was unclear as well till I finally found the instructions in a off-the-wall place on Axial's website.

[@TheRCNetwork]

Your Rubicon will have a parts bag. There is the front 4 link truss inside that bag (at least in my Honcho it was. Not sure of the Rubicon) If you get the same aluminum links from Axial, there's the option to do 3 link or 4 link F/R.

[@TheRCNetwork]

You basically need the same screws that's on the rear. You can also check the manual for the sizing. I'm not near the truck or manual, but they were about 1" in length by m3's, I believe

[@rcgamefrog]

I love your videos you explain things very detailed. i just got a honcho just like this and am planing on a lot of the same upgrades. i could not find anything on the links until now.

[@TheRCNetwork]

Yeah, I hate it when companies cut corners like that especially when we pay such premiums on the upgrade parts. I now have to do an upgrade to an upgrade!

[@mikeglamrc]

Just picked up the Jeep Rubicon RTR couple days ago. So far so good but on my old SCX10 all links were aluminum but 3 link. Think I'm gonna get the aluminum 4 link set for the Jeep SCX10 just for the ruggedness. Thanks for the info vid. I'm sold.

[@THEBESTEVER0890]

had my honcho one night snaped a link made new ones runs fine

[@derekf7798]

I have the newest scx10 trail honcho. I just got it about one week ago. and I have the stock bag of parts.

[@themilobox]

Hey Rich, When I was putting my Exo kit together I was saddened by the plastic flange balls as well. So I ordered these "Part# AXIA1331 - Axial-Flanged-Ball-3x58x7mm-6" as a direct fit replacement and was happy with the price. Just pop the old plastics out and these in. :)

[@TheRCNetwork]

Cool deal. I haven't made my own links before, but I hear it's pretty simple.

[@216sanchezb]

Thanks did all you just said everything looks good i reinstalled the driveshaft and it fixed itself may have installed it wrong but no more cogging ill put a video soon of my jeep thanks for the help keep the great videos coming

[@TheRCNetwork]

Cool, glad it's working!

[@TheRCNetwork]

Here's a feature description straight from Axial's Website: 4-LINK REAR SUSPENSION The suspension geometry utilizes a 4-Link design for the rear which is optimized to reduce axle steer and torque twist. It also helps with steep off-camber climbs by having the proper amount of anti-squat and roll characteristics. The 4-Link system also aids against suspension wrap-up in high power applications. .......Continued

[@andyjones357]

Hey thanks bud this 4 link vid helps me out really big I been trying to set mine up and the instructions on docs pdf for the 4 link to my dingo you save my butt on this thanks

[@TheRCNetwork]

Glad to help, Andy!

[@TheRCNetwork]

In this video, it's the stock Servo and an 1/8th scale Futaba aluminum horn from my OFNA Hyer 9e. Now, I'm running a Savox 1283sg servo and an Axial Hard Anodized clamping servo horn. check out my videos on that Servo by searching RCN - Savox 1283sg. There should be two

[@TheRCNetwork]

The links may be different lengths front to rear though. Give it a try and refer to the manual!

[@TheRCNetwork]

Hey, Thanks for the great comments! That's one of my biggest frustrations (and the reason I do the videos I do) is I want to know what I'm getting when I'm ordering things (also mostly because my local shops don't carry much). Many RC vendors don't explain specifics and others think we are all experts on their products! Stay tuned for more vids on the scx10!

[@TheRCNetwork]

Cool deal. At about $60 for these, is not too bad considering the Vanquish versions are about $100

[@rcvermont1763]

Yes i added the piece to the front axle housing from the part bag that came with the truck i believe that made it 4 link front and back? Idk haha... and the directions were pretty confusing but im pretty sure i put it all together right...it sounds like its binding where the driveshaft goes into the axle..i must sound retarted but i appreciate u trying to help me out man

[@TheRCNetwork]

+Rc Vermont Yikes! This may take the 24hr approach......take a break and look at it with a fresh mind tomorrow

[@TheRCNetwork]

Here's a part number I found. Axial M3x25mm Cap Head Screws (10) [AXIA089] It's either that one or the M3x30mm. Measure the rears.

[@G__Rett]

Please, can you help me, what are the lengths of the rods themselves, without the ball ends, just the rods, for the front and rear lower and upper links, thanks

[@TheRCNetwork]

This is official description of the link set I bought: •Upgrades your SCX10 TR to all aluminum links •Includes the hardware and links needed to upgrade to a 3 link OR 4 link setup using the 4 link mount included with the TR series of product •Two different wheelbases available

[@rcvermont1763]

It also only binds when the shocks are fully extended...

[@216sanchezb]

Thanks rcnetwork

[@TheRCNetwork]

Thanks Billy!

[@User-four20]

Hi, with the stock extra bag that is included with this rtr honcho, i know that they give you all the parts to make your front from 3 links to 4 links setup. But i don't know if they include the mounting hardware in the bag as well. If they don't can you please tell me what size screws do i need to install the 4 links setup. Thank you!

[@derekf7798]

Oh ok I thought there would be all the screws for the 4 link. and do you know and links I can buy the screws from.

[@The2008ktm450]

Just did this mod on my honcho....I used the same part number as you. Did you have to shim the axles to reduce the pinion angle? It looks as if my pinion angle is alot more severe than when it was stock. Thanks in advance

[@TheRCNetwork]

not at all, however, I was using the MIP driveshafts, not sure if that;s a factor. The Aluminum links in the video should be an exact stock replacement though

[@The2008ktm450]

Yes it is. I messed up and out the bottom. Links together wrong. Everything is perfect. Thanks for the response

[@derekf7798]

can you make a video on how to make the front a 4 link becuse im a noob and my new scx10 honcho already has a 4 link in back and 3 link in front. ive tried making it 4 link but i dont know how. please make a video on how to convert the honcho front to a 4 link.

[@chasepower2657]

Im not even sure if anybody will answer my comment but i really need a quesion answered, when u upgrade the links on a scx10 dingo or the front links of the honcho, how long is just the one ball joint end?, like the black peices on the endd of the grey rod, im makin my own upgrade set because the kit would cost me 80$ plus to my house, even if u just measure the black end of one of ur upgraded links, that would help a ton, thx

[@benny2980]

Did you find the 4 link setup up the front hit the radio box mounts? Or did I install mine wrong?

[@TheRCNetwork]

yep, I had to mod it slightly and remove one of the supports to have free clearance. I am running the Jevne Racing Battery plate, so no issues with added support

[@Gearhead9001]

will this fit the Axial 1:10 SCX10 Jeep Wrangler RTR?

[@TheRCNetwork]

The only SCX10 it will not fit is the shorter wheelbase Dingo. You should be good!

[@Gearhead9001]

Thnks Ive been working on that thing right now I only have 3 things changed the wheels and tires and the body its a hummer H2 and that thing is HEAVY it was crushing the wheels out of the stock tires but then I got some 2.2's and its fine but the links bend forward and its creeping me out its just gonna snap some day.

[@TheRCNetwork]

Yeah, the Axial plasitc is very "bendy" on the links. This should be a nice upgrade for you!

[@Gearhead9001]

Yup!

[@Gearhead9001]

Also another Great video like the rest!

[@shady280]

You mentioned that you would've preferred metal ball ends and refereed to a traxxas set. I'm gearing up to install the upgrade and want to know the traxxas part number, Also, are the traxxas parts a direct bolt on or does it need further mod to get them to work?

[@TheRCNetwork]

Hey shady, sorry I missed your comment.....I'm not sure on that one. I know that the "Revo" rod ends and ball are used on all the Vanquish links. You may want to take a look at a local hobby shop and see.

[@VintageDobermanandFrenchies]

Help! I did the links upgrade (Ram SCX10 12.3) , but now when I make hard turns my truck (steering servo) shakes. The truck is fine if I am not turning. At first the entire truck was shaking and I realized the driveshaft wasn't lined up properly. But now when I turn it shakes....any tAny thoughts. Great video thank you!

[@TheRCNetwork]

+Michael Christopher Check that your End Point adjustment on your radio is set correctly, next check that to see what's making the sound....driveline? knuckles?

[@TheRCNetwork]

I showed the parts you needed to make it a 4 link. Do you have the Aluminum link set? So you have the original parts bag that came with the SCX10? Which model SCX10? Let me know these answeres and I'll see what I can do....

[@dipset92100]

I really liked your video good work, Um I was wondering since I am just stepping into this hobby I was wondering what I should get for a first time RC??? I really like and want this SCX10 really nice truck. But other than that do you guys know where I can get some Rc's and some what cheap for right now?

[@TheRCNetwork]

The SCX10 is a great starter RC. As for other options, it really depends on what you want to do. Fast RC's are fun and addictive as you want to go faster and faster. As for Cheap RC's, you kinda get what you pay for.

[@dipset92100]

Yeah I am looking at the SCX10 Honcho truck I really like that one I am more of a off road type of person. But other than that I think later on I will wind up getting a fast rc but for right now I need something that I can start out with and practice with. I really like playing around with the rc's its just I dont have a really good one I only got a kids 1:8 scale pickup truck but it is crap. But I got it for free from my neighbor next door to me. But yeah if u can keep a eye out for a scx10 honcho for less than 300 bucks let me know. thanks and find more trails to ride :)

[@BushmanofYukon]

The link I left is for mounting four link. So the same 2 piece upper links will work for that part and the original y link? www.teamstrc.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=99&product_id=1249

[@derekf7798]

sorry any links for the screws.

[@arjaymolino61]

Do you have a video of how to change a 3 link to a 4 link?

[@TheRCNetwork]

I do not, but it's pretty straight forward. You just need that part that should be included in the parts kit in your SCX10 to mount on the front axle

[@216sanchezb]

So i installed this 4link set up on my jeep rubicon and now when i pick the wheels off the ground and give it throtle the wheels start to stutter or cog any advice as to what may cause this?there is a note about a spacer to adjust pinion angle but were do i put that said spacer? Thanks rc appriciate any help

[@TheRCNetwork]

You may want to check the orientation of all the rod ends making sure nothing is binding the suspension linkage. Kinda hard to explain, but each new link should swivel just slightly side to side once mounted. Also double check that you used the right angled rod ends in the right places. Then make sure that your new linkage allows the driveshafts to move freely throughout the articulation of the suspension

[@chaplinnone1274]

Hello. You seem to know what you're doing, so I have a question. I recently installed a savox 1210sg water proof servo. After I installed it, the servo works great. But I get nothing from the motor. Esc blinks like it's supposed to. The receiver is stock. Do I need a bec in order for the truck to move? Any information is welcome. Thanks.

[@TheRCNetwork]

I would first try a voltage capacitor from either Spektrum, Racers Edge or Novak. It plugs into an open port on the receiver. What's happening is the 1210 is trying to steal power from the esc. That should work. If not an external BEC from Castle (10amp) will be required

[@1985hamburgler]

can i use the 11.3 dingo kit on my 12.3 inch honcho to make the wheelbase smaller so i can fit on a new body? will the 12.3 honcho switch right over to the 11.3 with no hassle bolt right on?

[@TheRCNetwork]

+1985hamburgler I know that the link kit is mostly what determines the wheel base, but I would also assume that the frame rails would have to be replaced too. BTW, "no hassle" doesn't exist in RC! lol

[@1985hamburgler]

The RCNetwork tell me about it.

[@chadwick228]

hey so when i looked up that part number, it only shows 3 of the 4 lower links in the picture, i just want to be sure that it DOES come with the 4 lower solid links and the pieces to make the upper links. i looked at www.greathobbies.com as im in canada and its also my LHS so if u type in 30550 it shows up and just blow up the pic, if anyone can help me i just wanna be sure before i order it. thanks

[@TheRCNetwork]

Depending on the model of SCX10 you have, you will need a couple of parts from the parts bag of your SCX10 to get 4 link both front and rear

[@rcvermont1763]

Im relatively new to the rc world and i just installed a set of the 12.3 aluminum links on my scx10 jeep wrangler with a set of 100mm ultimate scale shocks from rc4wd and now its binding..if you have any suggestions on how i can fix this before i break something id greatly appreciate it thanks man

[@TheRCNetwork]

+Rc Vermont Hey RCV, I double checked the wheel base of this rig: www.axialracing.com/products/ax90028and it is a 12.3" wheel base SCX10, so as long as you got the part number in my video, it should work for you. Next, double check that you installed each part of the link kit in the right area - Did you do a 4 link both front and rear? Next, the 100mm shocks should cause any type of binding, you may just have some unused travel, since the SCX10 uses 90mm shocks. Just in case, here's a copy of the instructions: www.axialracing.com/products/ax30550/instructionsYou're just going to have to watch where the binding is happening and narrow down the suspect. Hope this helps

[@euniquetrailadventures]

Rc Vermont​ You can also double check with each shock removed (not installed) and compressing and let them rebound completely.. Just to try and isolate that it's not the shocks themselves.

[@euniquetrailadventures]

... Also you did not mention, in case you are running CMS, you should only use 3 link up front if you are using a chassis mounted servo.

[@roelsmasterpiece9986]

Hi.. I have a scx10 deadbolt with 12.3 wheelbase.. Can i upgrade it with 11.2 aluminum links?? My plan was to mount a tamiya hilux with 11.2 wheelbase. If i upgrade to 11.2 will there be any issues on its performance? Thanks..

[@TheRCNetwork]

I believe the main difference in the 12.3 and 11.2 wheel base is the links (I might be wrong..) The Dingo comes stock with an 11.2" wheel base (I believe the only SCX10 with the shorter wheelbase) Cross check the part numbers between the Deadbolt (or Honcho) and the Dingo to see what unique part numbers are on the Dingo

[@roelsmasterpiece9986]

Ok man thanks a lot

[@TheMcooper17]

i have the dingo and looking to lengthen my wheelbase, i i have a 4 link in the back but i basically have it in a way tht my axle is wound up. pinion angle higer than horizontal, is benifit from this?

[@TheRCNetwork]

I believe the Dingo's WB was 11.2 - this can extend you to 12.3, but you'll have some things to work out like driveshaft lengths and such, but those should be in the parts bag from your truck

[@TheMcooper17]

@@TheRCNetwork its been a loong time since i built it i forget whats there

[@tobydyes]

If you use the metal ones they actually move around once you put the screw in it's not a tight fit the plastic ones are better

[@TheRCNetwork]

Rod ends are the achilles heal of all RC

[@BushmanofYukon]

That truck is confusing compared to my wraith...lol! I upgraded it with all STRC goodies but on the honcho the upper link thing is confusing. I wanna' skid the crappy upper y link since it rubs on the driveshaft front and rear. They show an upper link mount apparently for the back diff which makes no sense. Both are the same. I have rear steer in mine. Take a look. www.teamstrc.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=99&product_id=1273

[@TheRCNetwork]

I tried to respond to the PM, but you have a setting that blocked it, but here's what i wrote: Yeah, it is confusing! It looks like they make you buy everything seperate. Lower links are easy. The uppers, you'll need one kit for the rears and then need another kit for the front 4 link conversion. You'll basically have a couple extra links. Depending on what kit you have, typically, Axial gives you extra parts in the bag for the 4 link coversion. Here's what I would get: Front and rear lower links:STA30518GM Front and Rear Upper links:STA80043UGM 4 link front upper conversion:STA30484GM Axial Rod ends for everything:AX80005AX80018 also check this link I stumbled across: www.teamstrc.com/index.php?route=product/category&path=72_103_108 You may also want to email them. Price wise, the axial kit that you left a comment on was $60 or so and had everything plus the steering linkage. You would still need those parts from your kit bag for the 4 link though. Or Vanquish sells an entire Ti kit for $100... Good luck! Rich

[@BushmanofYukon]

The RCNetwork I didn't buy the truck new so I have no extra parts for it. I already have the aluminum steering links front and rear. Rear steering. I was just trying to figure out their parts for this. Upper and lower links front and back. Knowing the back links are longer then the front ones on the honcho. I see the bracket to change from 3 link to 4 link but they say it's for the rear...lol when front should be the same. STRC parts are still cheap while being top shelf ;o) I went the whole nine yards on my wraith but wasn't planning on going quite that far on the honcho but should have known it's just as crappy out of the box as the wraith was ;o) Now the link you gave me for the upper links is what I was looking at but that's for the 3 link not 4. I'm not getting that conversion kit. What's with the big silly plate?...lol!

[@BushmanofYukon]

The RCNetwork Not sure why your pm was blocked. Everyone else can pm me and I'm subbed to you as well.

[@216sanchezb]

So just wanted to make sure if anyone here has had any problems with driveshafts rubbing after you install this part is it the parts that are bad or just bad installing? Please help iam a noob at this

[@TheRCNetwork]

Nope, no issues with driveshafts rubbing. Make sure everything is oriented correctly as far as the eyelets

[@jaggercoon8856]

Will this fit my deadbolt 2

[@TheRCNetwork]

Not sure of the compatibility between .1 and .2 on links

[@themilobox]

Amain hobbies has them for $4.89 for 6 in a pack. That's where I picked them up.

[@tobydyes]

It's called a panhard bar

[@TheRCNetwork]

Thanks for the info...there was little to no info on these 9+ years ago when I purchased. A lot has changed since then obviously

[@axial2011]

its not called 3 links its called 2 link with an a frame

[@julianarmstrong4790]

How the balls do I install this stuff...

[@TheRCNetwork]

Here's a link to the instructions: docs.axialracing.com/instructions/Parts/AX30550-i001_-_SCX10%E2%84%A2_TR_Links_Set_12.3in.pdf Also, you may need parts from your RTR bag of parts to make it a 4 link f/r