BACK ON ITS WHEELS! Wheel bearing and steering rack installation -- MGB restoration PART 12 --

I finally get the MGB back on its wheels after a full overhaul of the front suspension and steering. In this video, I install new wheel bearings and the steering rack.

[@simonhiggs5742]

I'm just about to start this job! So stoked to have this (and your suspension assembly video) to guide me!

[@Endfloat]

Glad I could help! 😎

[@sepocon]

The technical quality of your videos has gotten excellent! Great watch.

[@Endfloat]

Thanks very much for the feedback! It's good that its noticeable. The new camera is making all the difference.

[@spacedkowboy7273]

Ross, I’m thoroughly enjoying your channel. It’s been in my mind for quite awhile to one day do a rebuild on an MG. This is all very informative and entertaining, and gives me a great look at what I might expect...good and bad! Keep up the great content! It is appreciated more than you probably know!

[@Endfloat]

Thank you very much for your kind words! I have to say I am really enjoying the restoration of the MG, and there'll be plenty more to come with it. Best of luck with your project!

[@donthuis]

Having the outer races perfectly pressed in is best achieved without the shims in place by torqueing the castellated nut up to well above this 70 lbf/96Nm value at first. Checking the endfloat with shims in situ can be improved by temporarily putting the wheel back on: rocking the top and bottom should not let the rim move more than say 2-3 mm/0,1" for lowest tolerance. The splitpin for the final phase can be shorted on one of its legs (I put a metal saw to an used splitpin of the brakepad assembly) and with this short end drifted in the recess of the nut, the longer part can be bent over on the outside over the stub axle end. Such a splitpin is easier to remove on disassembly. Turn the nut slightly anticlockwise to lock the splitpin firmly. Remaining grease should not fill up the greasecover beyond 50% max.

[@simonhiggs5742]

Thoroughly enjoying watching these all the way from Australia!! I'm about to pickup a 74 MGB project and have been watching your work with great excitement for when I get my hands on mine.

[@Endfloat]

Thanks very much! There's lots still to do but it's a project I'm really enjoying. It'll be a while before the next installment though cause I've other things on the go.

[@simonhiggs5742]

@@Endfloat yeah of course mate!

[@poppydogz]

Cheers for the content fella, it has inspired me to crack on with my 74 gt in Bracken (Orange) paint, I got her with the later orange striped seats which will really go with the paintwork.. Happy days..

[@Endfloat]

Best of luck with that! They do look great in orange!

[@timsiggs7993]

Another great to watch video. Good progress roll on the next.

[@Endfloat]

Thanks very much! Glad you enjoyed.

[@scottishcarenthusiastsandtrain]

Good progress mate and another enjoyable video.

[@Endfloat]

Thank you very much! And thank you for the continued support!

[@bshnabel]

👍 good job

[@Endfloat]

Thank you!

[@scoobyben1979]

Hey Ross, I think I may need to do this on my B. I have a squeaky wheel bearing which appears when driving straight or turning a little to the left. It goes when I turn right or hard left. So I'm guessing the left. But the right brake got very hot a few months ago (smoking hot) when it bound slightly on my way to work so I think I may play it safe and do both.

[@smashyrashy]

Great work! This is going to be a good watch

[@Endfloat]

I hope so! It took me long enough to edit! (Computer problems)

[@smashyrashy]

@@Endfloat fair play even more then!

[@Dave_Stafford]

Nice progress Ross, rolling again so if there's any remaining oil/crud at least you can pressure wash the bejesus out of it.

[@Endfloat]

Exactly! I'm planning on hiring a steam cleaner to get it all fully cleaned out top to bottom.

[@bladerunner6282]

forget endfloat... it will always feel the same with the same torque value no matter the number of shims or their thicknesses. the shims serve to create an optimal compromise between excessive slop and excessive friction. so when there's a castellated nut and split pin securing arrangement, a torque value is pretty much worthless. simply tighten till won't move then back off to the nearest point where the split pin can be inserted. test for satisfactory compromise between slop and friction. if not satisfied, remove one of the shims or add one and try again...and again...and again until satisfied. use as few shims as possible.

[@bladerunner6282]

why not just put the rack back on in the reverse order in which it was removed. i.e. install steering wheel. loosely put untiversal joint on the upper end of the column. instart reck and shims while inserting pinion splines in universal joint. should be easy with the engine removed.