Back Stitching Leather Tutorial (In Depth): Leathercraft Masterclass

Join me in this mini tutorial where I demonstrate the technique I use to hand stitch a seam with back stitches laying neatly side by side.
You can use this technique with any thread you like, but best results are obtained with a cabled or round thread. Linen being very dense will have the most defined results visually (Cabled poly used in the video flattens out a little more). Please enjoy.
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Pince à coudre (french saddlers clams):
ebay.to/2BMBkam
Vergez Blanchard awl:
ebay.to/2MQ0glK
Wuta Leather pricking irons:
ebay.to/2odoFDL
Thread- best (Linen/Poly):
www.blackmount...
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[@rondumontier1187]

It's nice to see the "oldschool" technique being taught. I love it. I was taught this by an old German Master Crafter back the 80s when i started full time. This is great stuff Thank you

[@LeathercraftMasterclass]

That's so cool to hear. Thanks for sharing Ron 👍

[@alexey8615]

@@LeathercraftMasterclass Здавствствуй , я тольку учусь . Вы из не многих мастеров у котрых которых чистая и красивая работа. У других мастера шило даже не того размера. Понятно и наглядно , даже без перевода . Спасибо.

[@LeathercraftMasterclass]

@@alexey8615 не за что мой друг ))👍

[@kabily8972]

I would like to see the other side,too.Please.🙏

[@andyshields5935]

Enjoyed this video, using the spare needle to align the thread is a new technique. Thank you

[@LeathercraftMasterclass]

You're welcome. Happy it helped 👍

[@flatdog-]

Thank you

[@LeathercraftMasterclass]

Hope you find it useful 👍

[@PaulBatchelor717]

Clear, precise and flawlessly executed. Wonderful content.

[@LeathercraftMasterclass]

Thank you Paul, much appreciated. I'm glad you're benefiting from the videos 👍

[@scottpeever3198]

First time I have seen ur show and I like how u explained the whole process made it easy to follow so I liked and subscribed keep up the good stuff!

[@LeathercraftMasterclass]

Thank you Scott, that's great that you found it helpful 👍

[@lueddusalvattore]

🙌🏻🙌🏻 always doing the best!!!

[@LeathercraftMasterclass]

Much appreciated Luiggi. Happy you found it valuable 👍

[@hangingoutwithronwalters4505]

Thank you ! Just the teaching I have been searching for. Excellent video.

[@LeathercraftMasterclass]

Glad it was helpful Ron. Thanks for watching! 👍

[@Tcorse22]

This was so helpful. Thanks!

[@LeathercraftMasterclass]

Great to know! You're welcome 👍

[@steveducharme2541]

Excellent video. Thanks

[@LeathercraftMasterclass]

You're welcome Steve. Thanks for watching 👍

[@pgreenx]

Very helpful. Both explanation and footage. Subbed

[@LeathercraftMasterclass]

You're welcome, thanks for subscribing 👍

[@williamong1768]

perfect man thank you

[@LeathercraftMasterclass]

You're welcome!

[@MrThumper1440]

If I could hand stich as well as you, I'd throw my sewing machines away!!! Great tutorial.

[@LeathercraftMasterclass]

Haha thank you. I particularly enjoy hand stitching so I think it all comes down to what gives you the most satisfaction. Thanks for watching! 👍

[@Arch1301]

very clear wow

[@LeathercraftMasterclass]

Glad it was helpful!

[@evybabee]

Even though your stitching is gorgeous, I think I prefer straight stitches over zigzag stitching. I ordered some fancy Sinabroks 1.2 mm round hold punches. This backstitch technique is great though, I could never figure out how to get those stitches to lay perfectly flat like that!

[@LeathercraftMasterclass]

Thank you Evelyn. I'm glad the video helped you with your back stitch technique 👍

[@JIMI291]

Subscribed brother

[@savagehawaii7491]

Great video, thank you

[@LeathercraftMasterclass]

You're welcome!

[@ianknight2053]

Thank you very much. Please can you explain why most hand stitching is done towards, rather than away from you?

[@LeathercraftMasterclass]

As your arms begin to tire, you are bringing them closer to your body which can mitigate fatigue. Also, your fingers touch the thread less stitching back as compared to forward.

[@ianknight2053]

@@LeathercraftMasterclass Thank you for the explanation. I started leathercraft about 2 years ago and have always stitched away from myself but I will certainly now try it towards myself.

[@vizizhandmadeleather5574]

Great video bro

[@LeathercraftMasterclass]

Happy you like it buddy

[@teebo3069]

Thanks man I love these make more I’m a noob 🤪😂

[@timothyblunk4534]

Hope I'm not too late to get this questioned answered. If stitching with a cast does all the same technique apply, or does the back stitch work best without a cast?

[@LeathercraftMasterclass]

When casting, most don't cast the back stitch as well. However I would recommend experimenting both ways to see what gives you the best look.

[@timothyblunk4534]

@@LeathercraftMasterclass thanks!

[@juliangonzales2916]

Excelente 👍

[@LeathercraftMasterclass]

Thanks Julian

[@bamegokreatif1980]

👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍

[@richardichard4237]

good teaching, subscribed.

[@LeathercraftMasterclass]

Thank you!

[@bekirdemir9411]

Thanx for tutorial. Wich your thread. How mm?

[@NemoVir]

Is is possible you can do a video on how to comfortably use the clam? I bought one, but I suspect I am not using it properly. It’s extremely awkward to use, so much so,that I don’t use it anymore.

[@LeathercraftMasterclass]

I don't think there is any trick to being comfortable stitching with a clam. If you can't find a comfortable position it may not be a good fit for you. You can try turning the chair so that the back rest supports the side of your rib cage giving your lower back a break. I do that sometimes if i'm stitching for hours.

[@MuhammadBajaAksha]

Thank you! Great video.

[@LeathercraftMasterclass]

You're welcome, thanks for watching :)

[@gypsycruiser]

The best video on the subject of stitching leather , wonderful to see such inspiring skill.

[@LeathercraftMasterclass]

That's very encouraging to hear. Thank you for the kind words and happy you enjoyed it :)

[@juancarrillo3104]

Great work. Thanks for the video. May I ask you what size of awl you where using here?

[@gunnersmate623]

I'm trying to connect pieces of scrap leather to make a unique handbag or something of sorts. Is there a way to either lace or hand sew pieces together smoothly? I am a beginner in leather crafting and have so many ideas its crazy... but I have to learn the stitches.

[@LeathercraftMasterclass]

I would personally undertake a project like that when you have more experience mastering the fundamentals of stitching, skiving and edge finishing. Start with small projects like simple card holders and expand as your skill set improves.

[@ej5538]

Hello, I was wondering what size awl this is? Vergez Blanchard sells 5, and I quite like the look of this. Thank you.

[@LeathercraftMasterclass]

I'm not 100% sure I'm afraid, it's been some years since I bought it. I do know it's on the smaller side, but I have another Blanchard that is even smaller. So small/medium perhaps? Incidentally it's exactly the same size as my Wuta Leather awl (only comes in one size), and I feel that's a better and cheaper alternative if you can see past the 'made in china' aspect.

[@tonicboy]

Thank you for a great instructional video. Just one question - using this technique, I get nice angled stitches on the front (right hand side), but flat stitches on the back. Is that just how it is with saddle stitches or am I doing something wrong? Is there any way to get both sides angled?

[@LeathercraftMasterclass]

Yes, angles are possible on both sides, but this involves a different technique. I explain this in the course 'The Techniques Of Hand Stitching' available as part of a Video Plan. www.leathercraftmasterclass.com

[@kimberlyli382]

beautiful!

[@LeathercraftMasterclass]

Thank you Kimberley

[@trovatoreleathergoods4669]

Love the attention to detail...thank you! Is this considered a Saddler Stitch? I've seen some techniques when they come through with the second needle the thread goes over the top of the needle and then pull through.Does it matter either way? Just learning and would love your insight. Much appreciated!

[@LeathercraftMasterclass]

Thank you. I can't really visualise what you mean, but as long as you are obtaining the desired result, that's all that matters. Correct, this is a saddle stitch.

[@jamesbarker3918]

Great video, thank you. One question, what size nylon thread should I use if I have 4mm chisel punches. I do not want a chunky look and plan to make wallets, ax sheaths and pouches.

[@LeathercraftMasterclass]

Hello James, I am not that familiar with Nylon machine thread sizes, but a 0.6mm thread would probably fit the bill there. Tkt 12 - 20 maybe?

[@rachelsmith7295]

Is a thread zapper neater than a lighter for melting thread ends? I usually use linen thread so no experience of polyester. Thanks

[@LeathercraftMasterclass]

I have no experience with a thread zapper I'm afraid. It would reduce the chance of scorching your leather I imagine, but I don't know if it simply cuts and seals the thread or makes a plug to prevent pull-through like a lighter does.

[@CantrellLeatherGoods]

Great tutorial. I’m always looking to perfect my techniques and this will certainly help. Thank you so much for taking the time to produce this. I’ll have to go and check out your website for sure. Beautiful stitches by the way.

[@LeathercraftMasterclass]

Thank you Choya. I'm happy that you find this tutorial helpful. I have many more video courses on the website www.leathercraftmasterclass.com You may enjoy The Technique Of Hand Stitching which is a full length course and goes much more in depth :)

[@dmitriyobidin6049]

is it possible to get that inclined stitch on both sides with diamond chisel? I am only capable to get 1 side with inclined stitch, on the other side it is going straight every time...

[@LeathercraftMasterclass]

A diamond chisel isn't as effective as a pricking iron for obtaining an angle or incline to your stitch. But in order to gain an angle on both sides, you first need to cast your stitch and also use leather that is both thick and firm enough. I explain this in further detain in my video course 'The Techniques Of Hand Stitching' available on my website: www.leathercraftmasterclass.com Thank you.

[@kadirozmen7931]

@@LeathercraftMasterclass and Dmitriy Odisin, I have very the smae problem!

[@V3leathercraft]

Is it because the pony is left slanded, u r keeping the left hand upside? If it's 90° pony, how the hands should be?

[@BlueToronto]

So if you want to start with two back stitches I guess you would start from the 3rd hole?

[@LeathercraftMasterclass]

Yes that is correct. Thanks for watching 👍

[@BlueToronto]

Awesome, thanks. I'm on my way towards becoming a leathercraft master.

[@LeathercraftMasterclass]

@@BlueToronto Awesome to hear. You may enjoy following me on Insta too @leathercraftmasterclass. I post content most days..reviews, hacks, mini tutorial, lives etc.

[@BlueToronto]

@@LeathercraftMasterclass Cool, I'm not on Instagram but I'll be sure to check things out. I did check out your 4Z Pricking Irons video though.

[@Nurronshodiqin]

hello again :p

[@asepkurniawan4066]

Hi friend. what kind of thread do you use? what size? please help answer, this is important for me

[@LeathercraftMasterclass]

Not sure I'm afraid, it's an old video.

[@callumstyan7399]

I didn't know until watching this video that anyone used pricking irons or diamond chisels, whatever term you want to use, without punching all the way through each piece of leather. Is there any objective reason to do it that way? Do the stitches on the back side of the piece come out nicer? I find it hard to punch through even just two 3-4oz veg tan pieces but I suspect I just have a bad chisel and maul.

[@LeathercraftMasterclass]

Using an awl is a traditional way of stitching leather, pricking irons are only meant to mark the surface to follow with your awl. Modern pricking irons now have thinner prongs with tougher steel so that you can punch all the way through. However, most advanced projects require the use of an awl, and I like to keep my skills sharp by using it even if I don't need to. Proficiency through practice. Cheers.

[@donaldmcdaniel1773]

👍

[@OpIndependence]

Why are you stitching below the groove line you made? Is it for easier demonstration? It is my understanding you typically want to stitch inside the groove so you can recess the thread for longer life. I am just starting to get into leather work so I may be completely confused here. Thanks.

[@LeathercraftMasterclass]

The groove that you see is actually a decorative crease line above the stitch that adds visual interest like a frame. It is done by using a heated creasing iron that compresses the leather there. It used to be done for practical reasons to reduce water ingress from the edge and reduce fraying. Stitching inside a groove cut out in the grain layer is typically an American western style of stitching coming from saddlery. It is used in western goods mainly for style reasons. In England and France the thread is tapped flat after stitching to reduce friction wear.

[@OpIndependence]

@@LeathercraftMasterclass Thanks so much for the detailed response. This helps greatly. Keep up the great work.

[@jhonsenliandi1]

how to lock linen thread ? i never use linen thread because i don't know how to lock when done stitching,,,i use polyester thread and burn thread when i done stitching,,,thanks

[@LeathercraftMasterclass]

Finishing seams with linen or polyester thread is explained in the video course 'The Techniques Of Hand Stitching'. Available via leathercraftmasterclass.com

[@RezcoastBrisky]

What size is the awl your using? Having trouble choosing what size I’d need.

[@LeathercraftMasterclass]

This is one size up from the smallest awl haft that Blanchard make I believe.

[@alexdorand]

Would you be kind and put a video on how to stitch inverse pricking iron?

[@LeathercraftMasterclass]

Stitching with inverse irons is covered in the course on attache case making 👍

[@alexdorand]

@@LeathercraftMasterclass thanks, started watching it now. Amazing course.

[@BonjourMonsieurStig]

Can I ask what awl you’re using? It looks like the slits from the iron as opposed to round or diamond awls I usually see

[@LeathercraftMasterclass]

Hello. It is an awl by Vergez Blanchard.

[@Itsmarieanne]

Leathercraft Masterclass hello, what size of awl are you using? Also really great work, you either make it look easy or I might need to upgrade my tools bwcause your awl is so easily getting through!

[@robustfoods8398]

...I appreciate your vids... just thought I would help you back. Your attributionn about DaVinci is not quite .... it was Michaelangelo, actually...... "trifles make perfection, but perfection is no trifle". I know, its a small nit-pick, but that's kinda the essence of the concept you've espoused. It might mean alot to Michaelangelo as well. He signed in bold letters across her sash his pieta, when he was a young, brash 23 year old, when he overheard someone attributing his work to another artist. He later said he regretted doing it.

[@LeathercraftMasterclass]

Correct DaVinci didn't say "trifles make perfection, but perfection is no trifle". I can only imagine old Leo improved upon Michelangelo's saying to lessen the association with a boozy dessert. They are perfectly tasty though.

[@galihwicaksono3703]

More than a year late but let me ask you this, do you use this technique for all kinds and all sizes of threads? Like flat thread or big round 1mm thread. Thank you.

[@LeathercraftMasterclass]

Hello. I don't usually go above 0.7mm in thickness, I also don't use flat thread. So yes I would use the same technique for all my work.

[@galihwicaksono3703]

@@LeathercraftMasterclass thank you for your answer

[@matthewdenty7760]

You say you have anothe tutorial on stitching .... do you simply go back and forth with directional tension or do you flop the threads as well but just dont teach that here?

[@LeathercraftMasterclass]

That's correct. I have a video entitled 'The Techniques Of Hand Stitching' which is available with via membership: www.leathercraftmasterclass.com Thank you.

[@danielstyffe]

What size are the thread used in this video? 0.45mm?

[@LeathercraftMasterclass]

Yes 0.45

[@Joelprimas]

What a pricking iron style? Diamond or european?

[@LeathercraftMasterclass]

European 👍

[@PerfectWoodGrain]

Where can I acquire a Finch clam?

[@LeathercraftMasterclass]

Thank you for your enquiry. I purchased these clams from Abbey England and personalised them with my own logo.

[@PerfectWoodGrain]

@@LeathercraftMasterclass Thank you!

[@RANDOM-jpg93]

0.45/0.55/0.35 thread?

[@LeathercraftMasterclass]

Filmed almost 2 years ago, so not too sure I'm afraid.

[@mksee66]

You should have shown the opposite side bro. opposite side is equally important.

[@LeathercraftMasterclass]

That's where the online courses come in, especially the Beginner Class. leathercraftmasterclass.com

[@godofm3tal1]

Wuta. Curiosity there. I have seen their wares and thought them to be Chinese knockoffs. Are you somehow sponsored by them or do you genuinely prefer their wares for quality of product?

[@LeathercraftMasterclass]

Not sponsored by them no. I generally prefer vintage irons for the bulk of my work, but that's not a reliable source to recommend to people. Wuta just happen to have a good price to quality ratio, where if you pay more, you won't necessarily get more.

[@godofm3tal1]

I've been eyeballing their edge creaser and been reluctant to pull the trigger because of the brand. I get what you're saying though. Tandy and weaver stuff come from similar places and they just throw their brand on it to get people to feel better about buying it. But the wuta stuff is a fair bit more expensive than Tandy/weaver. Which is why the apprehension. Have you put any of their other tools to the test?

[@LeathercraftMasterclass]

@@godofm3tal1 Yeah, a few other tools like their Japanese style knife, needles, edge beveler,s sanders, and probably some other odds and ends here and there like thread. Overall I prefer Blanchard and Dixon, but I'm not really loyal to any particular brand. I don't own anything from Tandy however.

[@godofm3tal1]

Yea Tandy is junk for the most part but there are some things that you don't really need to have the best of and theirs do a fine enough job, like scratch awls and bone folders. Tooling stamps for most needs. Their mauls are real legit but I think they discontinued the stacked leather variants. Shame. And honestly, while their rating system is cringe worthy, their stitching chisels really are hard to beat. I honestly feel their standard black chisels are on par with if not better than seiwa offerings of the same style. All you have to do is polish the tips. And their fine diamond models are really nice, and closer to traditional measurements, but can be a bit too tightly packed for thinner leather in my opinion. Other than that, trash.

[@orion7741]

it is a great video, BUT when saddle stitching, there is no actual need to backstitch. If you use a locking stitch for the last stitch, the thread will never come apart, and that is more than enough to hold everything for the life of the project. Using a locking stitch totally eliminates the need for any sort of back stitch. Plus, there is absolutely zero reason to put a backstitch at the beginning of the stitching. it is all one solid thread so putting a backstitch there is pointless and just makes it look ugly.

[@LeathercraftMasterclass]

Hi Orion. A backstitch is to increase surface area to prevent your stitches from cutting into the leather at a high stress point. Adding redundancy is a secondary benefit. I agree, not every seam needs it. Thank you for sharing your thoughts