Balsa USA Stingray with DLE-20, RC Plane Build N0 3: Wing Dihedral and Joining the Wing Panels

[@menhers1]

Also cutting one spar , the length left is longer than uncut spar !

[@joepellissier2091]

Well done. I agree with the way you cut the dihedral. Love the way you used the 123 blocks. I’m stealing that idea.

[@JamesRCPlaneTech]

Thanks! 123 blocks are a god send to this hobby

[@davidfogle1220]

I haven’t built an RC plane in 40 years, but remember the thrill. Thanks for making these videos so I can build vicariously through you. Your explanation about why it’s better to cut the wings spars, etc, of both wing halves to form the dihedral is convincing. However, when you get to the step of shaving off the teeny amounts of wood that make it work (you did mention repeatedly that you were exaggerating the amount in your sketches for clarity), I realized that the kit solution of trimming just one wing might be worth considering. The bottom edges of the bottom spars are the same length, so the “rotation" happens from that pivot point, and that makes the wings the same length. The offset you're concerned about is actually on the top, very small, and hidden inside the fuselage. The “one wing” method does admittedly introduce a tiny imperfection in principle, but given its very small magnitude when compared to all the other real world imperfections that occur in a build, it might easily be negligible. What do you think?

[@JamesRCPlaneTech]

I agree, it seemed almost irrelevant once I started cutting. other than the principle behind it, it probably didn’t matter much. Also, I guess it depends on where you reference it, but I do believe either the top or bottom spar joint at the dihedral will not be along the centerline of the fuselage? But again, I agree with you that in practice it probably didn’t matter much after I was finished with it, other than it suited my personal preference I guess. Thanks for the comment!

[@duainrothman7930]

Hello, I have a little tip for ya 🧐 when gluing plywood its better to sand it with like 120 just a enough to give it a tooth to bond to as fresh plywood is smooth, don't go heavy just a couple swipe to break the smooth surface. Also when mixing epoxy for like center rapping with fiberglass better to use a flat plastic container top cause it'll give you good woking time to spreads the epoxy and get the glass down just right as it's heating up as it is chemically bonding you dont want it in a container it'll set up (harden) faster in a container and less working time. Hope this is helpful to all. Nice build project, also if your ever interested in scratch building I've got BUSA Excalibur set of plans (free), im not going to get to this life time😊

[@duainrothman7930]

Oops bad spelling It should have read WRAPPING not rapping like in music 😂😂😂

[@JamesRCPlaneTech]

Hi, thanks for the tips! Those are useful, I appreciate it not just for me but everyone else who is hopefully checking out the comments. I appreciate your plan offer, if you get a chance email me at [e-mail] to chat. Thanks a lot! Also you may be able to sell it on ebay or other, if you consider that as well.

[@johnhaynie-ws6qy]

Great job with taking your time and explaining. One question where did you buy your table top with the grid lines?

[@JamesRCPlaneTech]

These are OLFA cutting mats for arts and crafts. They come in many sizes. They sell a set that comes with 3 large pads (A,B,C) that you clip together if you want one that big. I trimmed to fit my table. OLFA is a name brand but there are also others. They are self healing when cut. They are not cheap, but very useful to protect your table and also provide quick measurements. Here is an example: www.joann.com/olfa-gridded-cutting-mat-set-35inx70in-with-clips/3295219.html?gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAiAx_GqBhBQEiwAlDNAZhJFHDPjf-ZAGsjoa7y0I_LZL1FGJk7zDl_nT7mdt3Y6NSqGGI1BsRoCDRoQAvD_BwE

[@Didi-dd7xt]

Nice video, easy to follow. Could you do the wing with wing tubes and how to do the alignment

[@JamesRCPlaneTech]

Im sure you could. I have never used them. Something to consider in future builds

[@JamesRCPlaneTech]

Thanks

[@anthony3D]

Bonjour je pense que le papier sulfurisé ( cuisson au four ) ne serait pas resté collé a l'époxy. Mais j en suis pas sûr, faudrait que je fasse des essais. Merci pour votre vidéo instructive 😊👍

[@JamesRCPlaneTech]

You are correct, parchment paper works well and wax paper also. Thanks

[@oliverinfw]

Suggestion...why not move the steel blocks to the end of the spars and use them as your cutting guide? Would give you a nice straight cut line.

[@JamesRCPlaneTech]

Thats a possibility, I guess if you could clamp them in place. Thats something to think about. Thanks for the comment.

[@alfredvink]

In theory there’s another issue when raising only one tip. Raising the tip on one side to twice the height doesn’t give you twice the angle! True it doesn’t matter at these angles of dihedral, but still ;-) So yes, I preferably prop up both tips.

[@JamesRCPlaneTech]

Ya, i like raising both as well. Seems more thorough

[@oliverinfw]

I agree that the gaps between the spars and the ribs are too large and reduces the strength of the joint. In this case I would add balsa spar caps the length of the wing. Would add strength back into the wing.

[@nathanlipe9576]

If you have a long bar sander, couldn’t you have just sanded to the line?

[@JamesRCPlaneTech]

Yes, I believe so as well. It turned out not to be much to take off. I could have just sanded it!

[@mikecarter8158]

Not to mention your left wing will be shorter in there plans📏✏📐...lol🤣

[@JamesRCPlaneTech]

Haha, ya. Just a tad.

[@benhynum9879]

There is no end to the uses of 123 blocks.

[@sotm6078]

You can be more precise and NOT warp a wing by laying one half of the wing flat on the build board like they say to do. But trim the spars your way first!!

[@JamesRCPlaneTech]

Thanks, makes sense. Trim them both, then set one wing on board like you say, and just double the height of the other wing. Good point! Thanks