Bambu Lab High Flow Hotend Upgrade (E3D ObXidian)

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In this video we take a look at E3D's new HF hotend made specifically for the Bambu Lab P and X series of printers. This uses a special coating to prevent buildup and uses a special nozzle insert that great increases the hotends max output. We will go over what the install process is like and what test results where.
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[@Trevellian]

Agree. E3D really needs to sell a fully assembled version.

[@ModBotArmy]

Yeah, it’s not very enjoyable and the stock thermistor seems like it could be fairly easily damaged during the transfer if not careful.

[@Nepoxification]

I will buy a 0.4 and 0.6 hotend as soon as they offer the assembled version. I used DIY printers for 7 years, sold / gave them all away and went for the X1 Carbon because i don't have the time nor the nerves to tinker around anymore. I want a working tool and to be honest, i don't even want to assemble this hotend by hand. I am willing to pay a premium to get this done by someone else.

[@ModBotArmy]

@@Nepoxification I don’t think you are alone with that.

[@andreaudio]

​@@Nepoxification one more in the "I don't have the time nor the nerves to tinker around anymore" boat...

[@Stubones999]

I would gladly buy one assembled but probably won't do it myself.

[@twanheijkoop6753]

The temp error you got is a known issue with the clone hotends that accepts normal nozzles, the stock 48w heater is just not enough at higer flowrates. Youll want to get the heater of the rapido 2.0, chcb-ot or any other 60w+ ceramic flat heater.

[@ModBotArmy]

Good to know. That makes a lot of sense and explains it. The filament is just outrunning that heater. So when it maxes it the drop off is fast.

[@Trevellian]

Yet another reason that E3D needs to offer a fully assembled version. @@ModBotArmy

[@twanheijkoop6753]

​@@ModBotArmysince the heaters can draw less max power at higher temps it'll be even more obvious when testing filaments that need to be printed near the hotends max temp. There's a reason most high flow hotends come with 80 or 100w cartridges by default.

[@Dave_the_Dave]

I've run into this issue even with the stock hotend when I try to print at high flow rate and high temperature. The filament cools the hotend too fast.

[@xixipli]

Can you get those heaters with p1s connectors? Or is it a rewiring job?

[@hot_wheelz]

As someone who 90% of the time runs multi day prints, this is worth every penny. The only problem is that at least so far, since E3D first listed them, it seems as though the only people to get their hands in these has been those lucky enough to have E3D send them to them free in exchange for advertising ..... I hope that they start selling these to the public soon. I'll be among the day 1 sales.

[@Chrissi33004]

Some resellers here in Germany have gotten shipments this week. I’ve snacked one up for myself today. Maybe worth looking now since it’s seems like they are shipped out now (the reseller claims to have 20+ in stock)

[@Manimal747]

It'd be nice if they added a HF option as a standard selection in Bambu Studio/Orca, seeing as how its an official partnership. I'm sure it'd be conservative settings that most would want to calibrate regardless, but for those that just want this without wanting to tinker that'd be a nice option.

[@ModBotArmy]

100% agree with this.

[@technicallyreal]

When they said it was an officially supported product, this is exactly what I thought they meant by that. Hope they do it, otherwise I don't care that it's officially supported at all!

[@TheGlitchyCorgi]

What I'd like to see is a comparison between the stock nozzle and the E3D HF nozzles of a benchy or other model that is prone to having the finish change between matte and glossy when the machine gets limited by the minimum layer print time vs it printing at max speed.

[@Neamands]

I got an 0.4 E3D hotend for my X1C in december (0.6 was already sold out then...) and my experience is more or less the same as yours. Could push PLA(+) easily up to 30 mm³/s, but also noticed that the heater had problems holding the temp going above that flow when using higher-temp filaments like PCTG/ASA. During installation I just flipped the retaining clip so the "cutout" was on the same side as the thermistor hole. Since there is one of these little 'springs' on each side of the retaining clip the heater got pushed onto the hotend just as well. So I don't see the need of including a different retaining clip. Asides that I didn't have to adjust the temps. Temp tower was basically the same with the stock and E3D hotend. But I re-ran the PA calibration and the values slightly differed from the stock hotend.

[@acedias2576]

For anyone looking for printed instructions, E3D does have instructions on the product page if you scroll down and click on the Documentation tab. It looks like they do intend you to turn the clip around to account for the thermistor being on the on the other side, but aside from that these instructions are pretty spot on.

[@ecooley257]

Looks like it'd be a lot easier to slip that retention clip if you rotated it around the hotend 180 degrees. That way the notch (5:05) would be at the top and the little bumps would be at the bottom allowing room for the thermistor wires.

[@ModBotArmy]

Yeah I think that is the better way of doing it. Less likely to accidentally damage the thermistor or it’s wires.

[@randomdude1rd1]

that's how they come stock, those notches are there for a reason :)

[@Elektrotechniker]

Exactly my thoughts! I was actually quite surprised why he put it on „backwards“. And judging by the few macro shots of the bare hotend the heater block had no detents or similar features visible…?

[@donald1792]

that's what I was thinking, this guy must not be naturally mechanically inclined, how could you miss that

[@avejst]

Interesting video as always 👍 Nice to see that the big firms is working together to move the max speed for the printers 👍😀

[@ModBotArmy]

Thanks Asger! I love seeing the collaboration 😊

[@unicyclingistheshit]

informative video and straight to the point with no bullshit, a rare thing on KZbin nowadays. Kudos man, you've got a new sub

[@igiannakas]

Install the clip flipped upside down. That way the channel for the thermistor is aligned with it.

[@ModBotArmy]

There is a notch for the heater. It applies some force to it so that it stays in place. That was the primary reason I didn’t flip it.

[@igiannakas]

@@ModBotArmy yeap I’ve seen it too on mine. It shouldnt matter as the clamping force is the same whichever way you install it as the heater is “overhanging” the nozzle. Certainly better than stripping the thermistor of its insulation if you scratch it against the clip

[@ModBotArmy]

@@igiannakas yeah your probably right. The heater is much less fragile and with the clip on and silicon sock the heater doesn’t really have anywhere to go. I’m more curious why they moved the hole 🤷‍♂️

[@igiannakas]

@@ModBotArmyI’m guessing here but thinking that having it further away from the heater block gives better temp readings 🤷🏻‍♂️

[@ModBotArmy]

@@igiannakas interesting. Definitely could be it. I’m sure there has to be a reasoning. That’s as good as any theory I have come up with.

[@playmaka2007]

Incidentally 32mm3/s is the exact same max flowrate I got with PLA on my X1C using the aliexpress cht aftermarket nozzles.

[@alrightbiggulpshuh]

My guess is the nozzle temp error is due in part to the location of the thermistor relative to the ceramic heater. If there's an appreciable heat gradient across the heating block (say, if you're doing flow rate tests at the upper limit of the ceramic heater's wattage), then the stock thermistor is going to be measuring the high end of that gradient (sitting just under the heater and before the filament channel), while the E3d thermistor is going to be measuring a lower part of that gradient (sitting far from the heater and with the filament channel between the two acting as a heat sink).

[@DangeeksC]

The E3D stuff is back in stock for those looking for the upgrade

[@mikeselectricstuff]

Would have been more useful to have shown some real-world speed differences printing a few models of different sizes

[@davidcappello]

Nice video thank you!! When they have a "complete" assembled one with the fan and everything - I'd jump in.

[@MakeKasprzak]

The ABS problem probably means you need a beefier heatsink cooling fan (or to crank the speed). I seem to recall reading that ABS is more thermally conductive than PLA, meaning more heat can reach the heatsink through the plastic itself.

[@SeanTaffert]

This all seems very nice, but a lot of work and cost for an incomplete (and limited) solution that doesn't really give you a huge boost. Why didn't they just produce a complete package with heater included?

[@ngdeez]

I think the biggest surprise here is that you’ve never had to perform surgery on a Bambu lab hotend until now. Consider yourself lucky lol. Thank you for the great video. Def investing in a couple of these for my machines

[@BeefIngot]

Strange comment. I have had to touch my nozzle with more than a dozen spools through

[@Beakerzor]

neat! we are going to need breakthroughs like this if we are going to start having 1 meter bed sizes

[@bcarroll03]

This video had a sizeable impact on my descion to spend a sizeable amount of dolla-bucks to purchase this hot end that could give me a sizeable increase in print speed without a sizeable decrease in print quality.

[@UncleJessy]

ohhh thanks for this video man! Have been debating on grabbing some of these

[@ModBotArmy]

Dude with your helmet printing and just large models in general you should definitely be able to crank things up! 😊

[@SneakyJoeRu]

Just installed one after having Chinese clone clogging multiple times with pla+ i never had issues with. Hopes are high

[@testpilotmafia862]

Im waiting for a Diamond Back nozzle for the Bambu eco-system. Its sounds like there a few months off.

[@florianmaslofski]

would be great for the A1 as well, just anything to stop the PETG sticking.

[@elpipetuanis]

Would love to see this up against the Aliexpress nozzles.

[@mrojomrojo9478]

Thankyou for reviewing this ! Awesome channel as always

[@Sazhnikov]

flip the clip? 🤨

[@CCL13CN]

The clip has to be installed with the little "dent" covers the port of the thermistor. The clip and the ceramic heater does not care about which direction it goes. The only factor of direction is for the thermistor, and it should be adjusted accordingly.

[@AtomXploD]

I discovered that the temperature problem it's because of the positioning of the thermistor cables and the silicone socket, when there's a gap that's not covering the metal base (close to the cables) it will give an error, because there will be a difference in the readings from the tip of the nozzle (where's the sensor) and the "cold" area that's not covering the socket. Once you put everything in the "original" position, it will go smoothly

[@ChromakeyDreamcoat]

Saw the same results on my e3d nozzle. I bought a Rapido 2. heater (80w) and will see how this stacks up. Just waiting on delivery.

[@dvomang]

Which one did you get? The one I see on Ali looks like the wire comes out at a 90°. The Bambu one comes out the end. Do you think that will work?

[@ChromakeyDreamcoat]

@@dvomang I think the Rapido 2 heater might not work, another user on the bambu discord tried and burned their toolhead board. So DONT DO THIS.

[@Dhaydon75]

Great video. I was suprised it jad such alarge improvement over the stock one.

[@ChazmillsADLT]

Good to see they are getting better and collaborating with other companies. I personally have about 8 hot ends of various sizes so will not be buying any soon!

[@cnc-maker]

I have a bigger question, based on the geometry. Can it really retract? The geometry should be preventing retraction, or at the very least, limiting it. If it is able to retract at all, what is the limit of the retraction? There is no chance of doing a cold pull with this, and an extremely small chance of clearing a clog, so how long will you truly be able to use it? If it was only $5, it would be expensive to replace often, but not nearly as much as $75(?). It will be nice to see if someone looks into this solely from a feasibility perspective.

[@hicamajig]

Would love to see a direct head to head with the third party v2.0 hotend with their matching CHT

[@jasonjennings6686]

Me too! I have a few of the third party 2.0 on the way to test myself .

[@hot_wheelz]

The other interesting option is the Big Tree Tech Panda hotend that is designed to fit the P1 and X1 and takes E3D nozzles.

[@jasonjennings6686]

@@hot_wheelz cool product but waayyyy too expensive

[@hot_wheelz]

@@jasonjennings6686 totally depends on their market, if your 3d printer makes money for you then time is literally money, if you can increase flow rate by 60%, and if you do a lot or large, complex multi day prints, a nozzle like this can increase weekly output by 33% people like myself, literally cannot afford not to get these upgrades and we will buy them in multiples because we can afford to have downtime either.

[@Hanzedous]

Try to get gloves that are closer to skin tight. It won’t make fidgety tasks any less fidgety but if you’ve never sized down it makes a big difference. My dad has been painting for 40 years, both automotive and industrial and he taught me that early on when I he taught me his trade. For whatever reason he has always been insanely strict with PPE and when I first went to the mixing scales with baggy gloves he turned me right around and had me to size down. I was used to super cheap super thin gloves in my public high school and fast food job that would rip if you put on anything snug. I shared this knowledge with coworkers when I started working at a medical device company and it helped the ones that didn’t already have reasons for wearing baggy gloves.

[@ErtsenPlayGames]

7:30 --- Bambulab should sell 55-60w heater if the printer can handle it (or maybe try to build custom thicker brass / copper clip to hold the heater that will help with heat transfer and add more thermal mass.... maybe it will help)

[@IncredibleCisco]

since the temp sensor is opposite site you have to flip the spring clamp also. at 1:46 you put that wrong on it. if you push it like this on the temp wires could be cutted.

[@Barbasnoo]

Great video, and answered most of the questions I've had regarding this upgrade. Thanks!

[@no-brakes]

Would be nice to see the 0.6 results as well!

[@Factory400]

Ahhhhhh.....modding the printer. I cannot go back to that rabbit hole.

[@AndrewAHayes]

I would like to see a comparison between this and the ALi Express CHT nozzles

[@scott185]

No need for a different clip, it simply fits 180 degrees from the stock setup. Also when fitting the thermister, it's vital that you get the thermal compound into the hole, paste on the side wont help. I'll be fitting one tomorrow to see if I run into similar issues.

[@Hilmi12]

I wonder if they are working on one for creality k1 max

[@BeefIngot]

The only reason I wont buy one is it isnt in stock and isnt a fully assembled unit. I used to be a klipper head and now I dont want to lift a finger past basic maintenance. I feel like they're kinda missing the point of Bambulab printers by making it a pain to install.

[@Mr.P539]

Not needed, plus the price is gold :)

[@AdrienRochereau]

would be nice to see the flow with the .6

[@ModBotArmy]

Maybe I’ll play around with it on a live stream to see what we can reach.

[@Omniverse0]

@@ModBotArmy Gotta run some layer calibration tests first. See which height at your intended speed is most consistent. Should be some easy files out there on one of the printable sites you can use.

[@ralmslb]

7:40 This is clearly an issue of the heater not being strong enough. The error is most likely a temperature protection, as the printer is telling the hotend to heat up, but it doesn't, so it assumes a loose thermistor to avoid having the heater element heat up until it melts

[@huseyinbogazkaya9926]

I want to see a compact heat sink combination with 1 or 2 blower fans that draws air from heat sink to cool it down as well as circulate to cool the print. That would be one fan shorter and far more advanced.

[@brendanarmstrong7802]

Ooh, this might actually be fantastic for LW-PLA. You literally can't retract the stuff, and it's generally used for large pieces for model planes and cosplay.

[@JCon_22]

So I was skeptical about the flow. I was very wrong it can print anything at 166% flow rate no problem for exception of petg. I primarily print TPU and that is the reason I bought the hot end it can print 95 a ninja at 200 mm a second. That is unheard of TPU. The only downside that I found is that for many filaments you cannot print the standard temperatures at 100%. You always have to do above the 100% speed standard settings on bambu studio.

[@Dhaydon75]

It would also be nice to see it compared to one of those CHT clone nozzles.

[@saxplayingcompnerd]

3rd party ali express CHTs flow 40mm^3/s all day.

[@obie224]

CNC kitchen has already done it. the cht clone nozzles are 40-50mm sec no problem. I don't know why this product exists.

[@obie224]

CNC kitchen has already done it. the cht clone nozzles are 40-50mm sec no problem. I don't know why this product exists.

[@RabidBadger_]

A small spudger or spatula would be a far better tool for applying thermal paste.

[@AndrewAHayes]

someone will design one to be printed if they haven already

[@teabagNBG]

what is it about the BIQU Panda Hotend?

[@jaysoncummins8197]

Yeah, I have CHT nozzles on my Sunlu. They are awesome

[@iopfarmer]

short and interesting, perfect

[@KadaverKomplex]

And without further ado, let's get right into the soiboi forced catchphrase!

[@JoeMalovich]

I too have experienced the limits of the heater.

[@TheZolon]

So want that hotend for mine, but sold out.

[@ThePhilbox]

Can you please do an episode on getting klipper to send notifications to your phone... 'push' notifications with status updates, like first layer done, print finished, etc.

[@TS_Mind_Swept]

And so, the struggle for the balance of power continues..

[@daimhinm]

Would the clip fit upside down? Looks like it would fit over the thermistor wire if you flipped it 180 degrees from original installation orientation.

[@igiannakas]

Exactly correct! I’ve installed mine flipped and it works perfectly.

[@aqhan]

Nice! I hope they will make one for the A series as well!

[@Todestelzer]

Could be interesting for a print farm but for not so much. My printer isnt running 24/7. Not sure it’s worth upgrading the hotend.

[@mahmga1]

Great overview - However the problem is they were out of stock on launch -- And have been since. Hard to try a product nobody else can get..

[@vinny142]

So how about doing a test with a real print? This is like saying a car is faster because it does the 1/4mile quicker. I know you mention this at the end but just show it so you can give a bit more of a useful opinion than just "what I tested is an edge case, a real world print will be nothing like this, you'll have to test that yourself."

[@jbrownson]

very informative, thanks for the video

[@Rippthrough]

Turn the clip around, that way you're not pressing on the wiring and it fits in the groove like it should.

[@ModBotArmy]

I probably should have shown in the video but the reason I didn’t just flip it is because there is a notch to apply some push onto the heater. The otherside doesn’t have that.

[@djispro4272]

Great stuff! I see that my Ender 5 S1 spider hotend also reaches about 21mm/s cubed with the warping edges like the original Bambu, would it be worth it to upgrade to a 1.30 USD clone CHT nozzle (when buying three at once) from Aliexpress?

[@twanheijkoop6753]

For how cheap they are definitely, especially if you can get a hardened steel variant. Since they dont lose performance like a normal hardened steel nozzle would.

[@tired5925]

Isnt the stock bambu supposed to push 32mm3/s ?

[@tombo7719]

Have you seen that you need to adjust the flow or retractions? I am getting some strange gaps in the first layer, I don't remember getting prior to the swap..

[@tomich6430]

"You don't need to run a new PID tuning" ---> "I got a temp error". In 3d printing you NEVER change/adjust a main heating component (cables, connectors, heatsink, hotend, heating element, sensors, thermometer, etc) and don't run a PID tuning. Event if you disassemble and assemble the hotend you should run a new PID tune. Maybe Bambu Labs can add a check and recommend this via software or just mention that on the instructions

[@ModBotArmy]

The temp error wouldn’t be prevented by a PID tune. A larger heater sure. The temps are stable until you reach the max output of what this hotend can reach. Same thing with my k1 max. Swapped out for a microswiss hotend that was specifically built for the stock setup and a few kgs of abs with completely solid temps. I don’t disagree that a pid tune couldn’t hurt anything but in this instance it’s not the culprit.

[@tomich6430]

@@ModBotArmy gotcha. Was not aware of that and I've never actually had a BambuLabs machine. I've built my own printers, used some premade and I've developed my own software until projects like Marlin or Klipper evolved in what they are today. My knowledge may be outdated here. Do you know the exact error you got? I was under the impression you got what other systems may label as a thermal runaway or thermal over/under perform because the printer was expecting a different curve in the heating.

[@jeffreydutra]

I would be concerned about nozzle clogs with fiber reinforced filament. I would love to see tests with that given the CHT style has narrow channels within the nozzle I would assume it could clog easy. If its not good with fiber then it seems counter intuitive to have used obsidian in the first place. Thoughts?

[@igiannakas]

The channels are larger than the nozzle orifice so if your nozzle can take it so will the cht insert

[@twanheijkoop6753]

I've had no problems even with the hardened steel clone Vulcano cht's which have the worst internal geometry by far. Even with those Ive not managed to get a clog when using abs-gf or any CF filament. It's more prevalent on Bowden printers with high retracts (1mm+) than on direct drive where you shouldn't really need more than 0.2-0.4mm when using the right PA.

[@PLr1c3r]

A quick cold pull after using any reinforced/infused material filaments is an easy way to circumvent that. I typically perform cold pulls after swapping from any materials that don't play well together.

[@MinesweepTube]

How well does the coating prevent PETG in particular from sticking? Multicolor PETG prints are a nightmare because of blobbing.

[@3dtechnologies153]

Thanks for your fair review.

[@saadqadeer7807]

Ok bot

[@GregRosolowski]

Is it possible to cold pull to clean the nozzle?

[@Festivejelly]

The big problem here is that you cannot pid tune the new hotend. If you could the temp drop wouldnt be an issue id imagine.

[@Killa_Prints]

Any idea when they'll refresh the stock?

[@ModBotArmy]

I’ll try to get an email sent off today.

[@blindsay]

Just wish they would get them back in stock. Missed them when they were first released and havent seen them back in stock since

[@blindsay]

@@E3DOnline Sounds good, Thanks for taking the time to reply!

[@MaverickNgMVRKNG]

did you try rotate and reverse the clip? i think if you rotate/reverse the clip it will be fit and not clamping so much force on the thermistor, just like the stock

[@SneakyJoeRu]

I just did it this way. It does work but fit seems to not be as good as with original orientation

[@8bits955]

The heater wasn't able to keep up with the speed need a heater that is capable of maintain the temp at higher speed. Not bambus fault as was never designed to run at such speed but E3D should offer at least in the future higher wattage heaters as the stock one limits what speed u can print it at and a retune PID need to be done.

[@ModBotArmy]

Interesting. Since they are working with Bambu directly I would think they would be able to collaborate on a higher heater for their hotends. Then perhaps a setting that applies the needed pid values for that.

[@8bits955]

@@ModBotArmy There is a good chance it is in the work but I think due to the footprint of the heater size it very hard to actually design a higher wattage heater pad that is reliable and durable. But I am fairly sure it will be in the works. This is why on UHF hotends heaters are often can go up to 120w if needed, I personally have seen 20+ degree temperature drops even when going stuipd speed like 80. The main counter without upgrading the heating pad capability is to crank the temperature up however it will effect print quality at the slower speed section

[@ModBotArmy]

@@8bits955 that’s a great point. Due to the form factor and unique geometry of the heating element there is only so much space. I still think it is possible. Bigger heater, bigger clip, and bigger silicon sock should be enough as long as the toolhead board can actually supply the needed power output.

[@djispro4272]

I would worry that the connectors might not be up to speed with higher wattages... 100 watts through a tiny little JST/Bambu connector?@@ModBotArmy

[@igiannakas]

The heater is adequate for the new max flow rate - even with higher wattage you won’t be able to go much higher than 30-32 mm3/sec with a cht nozzle so the heater is barely adequate to hit that speed. Would it be nice to have a larger heater? Sure! Is it needed? Not really

[@nikscha]

Increased flow rate also makes the print much stronger

[@shenqiangshou]

Can you explain this? I thought faster generally makes for weaker layer to layer adhesion?

[@fordgeher]

​@@shenqiangshou depends. It is always related to the factor of how much energy is put into the material and how much cooling is on. If you print fast with much cooling your prints will be weaker because the previous layer has cooled down too much. It is a fine tune of all your parameters to get strong parts. The key is how hot your previous layers are.

[@nikscha]

@@shenqiangshou sorry I phrased this wrong. You're right, the faster you print the less thermal energy you can put into the filament, so at some point it won't bond properly to the previous layer. What I meant to say is that a hotend that has a higher maximum flowrate will produce a stronger print than a hotend with a low max flowrate. Note that this effect only becomes noticeable when you print faster (more than 10mm³/s)

[@shenqiangshou]

@@nikscha right, make sense, higher flow because it has the capacity to transfer more heat to the filament. Better melted filament leads to better layer adhesion. but probably not at the absolute maximum flow rate.

[@xslayerizedx]

I damaged my thermistor during the process . Im getting the abnormal hotend temp error and reading at 0 degrees temp for the nozzle . Printer has been down for a few weeks as i wait on parts .

[@klaidasrunele]

Compare with the Bambu Revo nozzle from Biqu with a revo HF nozzle when it releases!

[@ForOdin]

Now if only someone would come up with something like this for the K1 and Ender 3 V3 KE (they use the same hotend)

[@Rgierg]

Trianglelab CHCB-OT Hotend is available.

[@ForOdin]

@@Rgierg I’ve seen that one on AliExpress, but I had never heard of that company before

[@Rgierg]

@@ForOdin I have one but not yet installed. On fb groups there are 2 ways to upgrade. Microswiss or triangle labs. It seems that triangle labs gets better flowrate and you caan use mk8 nozzles which are cheap. Ruby ones or with diamond coating. Speciall nozzles for k1 style are more expensive.

[@ForOdin]

@@Rgierg hmmm, maybe I should order one….

[@dan-nutu]

2:10 Just wondering - how do you remove the filament after printing through a hotend like that? Won't the bifurcated molten filament solidify into 2 strings at an angle that would block the extraction since they cannot both fit in at the same time?

[@AlexandruBauer]

If you flip the clip around you'll get no issues on the thermistor like you had

[@ModBotArmy]

Yeah the reason I didn’t do that was the little inward retaining clip for holding the heating element in place. It’s probably fine to rotate but the top and bottom are different.

[@Spirited282]

I would still be interesting in trying one. Have you also ever tested the new pla from various companies that claim they are higher flow? I purchased the polymaker sonic pla but have not yet tried.

[@ModBotArmy]

I haven’t tried all of them. The only one I actually flow tested was hyper pla. I didn’t see any real difference kzbin.info/www/bejne/hIipc4arhaZ7odEsi=tbkxdHw7iawYg5wp

[@Spirited282]

@@ModBotArmy Shoot i must have missed that video. Thanks for posting, will check it out

[@LayerCakeMakes]

I wish they'd sell these through the bambu store, so you could pay with makerworld points.

[@Azmodon]

"some of the heat is leaving the heater with the filament" ... yes, that's how that works lol

[@the_naP]

Eh.... was there some reason you couldn't turn the clip around?

[@martonlerant5672]

32mm³/s is nice. Its just not "premium". Number twice as high are possible with CHT volcano sized nozzles that can be simply dropped into "garbage" creality K1 series ..

[@alpha_pixel_]

Why we still don't see induction heating with coils.

[@arekx]

Thermistor is on the other side than heater in e3d solution, right? Makes more sense to measure temperature of entire block than it is done in stock hotend (which has thermistor on the same side as heater).

[@mntbighker]

I bought the pre assembled version the day I ordered my X1C. After a few prints I installed it today. I'm not as interested in the speed as I am in just less issues in general. Famous last words.

[@JoshMurrah]

This was a very helpful review, thank you! I think E3D messed up on that thermistor placement. The clip can't be rotated 180 degrees, does that then affect the heater clearance? I will look into getting one or two of these for sure. And yeah, the highest flow temp errors are just that, you're outrunning the heater.

[@ModBotArmy]

It sounds like you can rotate the clip but it still isn’t designed to be rotated. There is a notch for the heater one side. That being said rotating is still probably better than risking damage to the thermistor leads.

[@PLr1c3r]

There's usually reasons behind design changes that we aren't aware of like optimal temperature control or relocation by design limitations from the larger chamber. I think E3D should make a complete hotend assembly that comes with a proper retaining clip and improved heater for this design to fully take advantage of their improved flow.

[@mmouse648]

Clip - E3D says to rotate it in the docs. They moved the thermistor for a reason. These guys are nitpicking engineers. The location was chosen to better sense the BLOCK temp. Bambu actually missed on this by placing it next to the heater, one of the 1st things I noticed when my X1C arrived right after the Kickstarter. E3D fixed a minor design error. BTW - don't forget that this was a collaboration WITH Bambu Labs. If they thought it was wrong it would have never reach final production.

[@NicolasSCII]

Couldn't you rotate the clip by 180°?

[@ModBotArmy]

I thought about that but one side of the clip has a portion that sticks in a bit to apply pressure to the heating element keeping it in place. You potentially could still rotate it like you said but it feels like a compromise still.

[@NicolasSCII]

Oh yeah, in that case, a better clip would be nice! Or at least instructions in the box telling you with orientation you should use. Because if you had doubt many will have

[@Pappagar]

Im happy with my rapido HF with a .6 CHT clone :)

[@xixipli]

Can you put that on bambu extruder?

[@Pappagar]

No i doubt it, bambu is its own ecosystem, however this video shows this e3d solution is pretty good@@xixipli

[@xixipli]

Yeah i thought so, that's why I was intrigued by your comment.@@Pappagar

[@markburton5292]

I'm curious if that helps with the strength of parts when printing fast.

[@ydoucare55]

I just wish I could actually find one in stock somewhere to buy