Bambu Labs VS Ender 3

[@Denniss7420]

There's just no comparison. For starters: Bambu Lab is a Team of former DJI employees who raised 55 Million dollars on a kickstarter campaign to create this Core XY machine. That alone put them light years ahead of the 'race to the bottom' manufacturers. Prior to owning a P1P, I had a fleet of Ender 2 Pros (I also have the original Ender 2) and I had them fully tuned - since they're smaller they're easier to dial in than a larger Ender 3. My Ender 2 Pros have all been sold or given away. I feel bad for the newbies who are just getting into 3D printing and are under the false assumption that all 3D printers are the same - They're Not. Prior to Bambu Lab - 3D printers were kind of like Go Karts where it required tinkering galore and something was Always breaking or in need of attention / tuning. The Bambu Lab machines are equivalent to a New Car.

[@ITSTHISEASY]

Couldn’t agree with you more. Thanks for the comment 😊

[@brainfarth]

I moved from an Anet A8 to a Creality CR-10(modified) to a Tronxy corey XY and then to a Bambu X1Carbon with AMS. What I've learned about speed and quality is that anything corey XY is so much faster and that sides are needed to open a whole new world of materials. UV resistant nudes will last years in your yard for all your neighbors to ogle over.

[@ITSTHISEASY]

Thanks for your comment and info on the printers etc. I’ll have to look into that 😊

[@peterpeter5666]

been enjoying my p1s for over a month now . like you said the failures are 99% my fault. like forgetting to wash the print plate and having prints not stick to not picking the right printer when i slice a project . only failure i wasnt happy about was when i printed with tpu and had to take apart the printhead cuz filament got stuck inside but i understand with soft filament like tpu its going to happen

[@ITSTHISEASY]

Thanks for the comment. Happy you told us about that because I have not tried that filament yet. If you get it sorted out please come back and tell us the settings. 😊

[@trent9629]

Try using a different infill. Grid makes a lot of scraping against the hot end while printing and uses a lot of filament. I like adaptive cubic

[@ITSTHISEASY]

Thanks for the comment and the tip. I’ll be sure to try it. 😊 Thanks for watching the video and if you don’t have the Bambu I hope it helped.

[@trent9629]

@ITSTHISEASY just got a p1s this week and coming from a fleet of ender 3s - it's been a life changing investment for me

[@greenman360]

LMAO, I didn't even notice those prints "for other people" until you took them down. Anybody watching this is probably a 3D printing enthusiast and, we know, bro. We know.

[@ITSTHISEASY]

Hahahaha. Thanks for the comment. I thought the same but they were staring me right in the face and after I watched it back said to myself, probably shouldn’t have even mentioned them lol 😂

[@xXKisskerXx]

there are so many wrong claims in this video. An ender 3 - can - print faster. Any printer can print those speeds. It's how much effort you have to put into tuning the machine, adding support, making the frame more rigid, etc. The fun fact is - most printers all print the same quality and speeds, it's how much effort you want to put into them to achieve those qualities and speeds though that matters, cheap printers, need a lot of work, and some even need complete frame replacements to make them more rigid. That is where bambu stands out - things come pretty much 'ready to go' - not a whole lot of assembly, additional installations, or getting 'the right materials" to make it happen. They have calibrated the machines, and their filament, to work like 95% of the time, the first time, without the extra hassle. (which is fantastic as part of that 5% failure rate, is User Error) When looking at print - the physical movement of the hot end is NOT the best measurement, the flow rate of the print is. You can be moving super fast, and pumping out 0.08mm layers on a 0.2mm nozzle, - that doesn't mean your actually 'printing fast'. But if your pumping out 0.36 layer heights with a 0.6mm nozzle - your 'physical speed' will look SOOO much slower, as almost no hotend can keep up with that flow rate, but you are pumping out SO MUCH MORE plastic per minute in comparison. The real difference though, from Creality machines and other brands, is how often you will need to adjust something. The maintenance of Creality machines is rather high, and newer printers, especially from other companies, have found ways to relieve that. The 'stops when it runs out of filament' is a simple filament runout sensor, literally like 15$ again its the premium you buy, some versions come with it. (Ender 3 has like 8 different models now, which is annoying, creality needs to stop) Also turning down bed heat is a bad idea when filament run out sensor triggers, or any Pause function. Because you will lose bed adhesion and the print will come loose -so more modern printers will not disable the bed heat.

[@ITSTHISEASY]

Thank you for the comment and sorry for not explaining better. I agree with everything you said honestly except for your opening statement. The videos purpose is simply to try to give people that are not as knowledgeable as you or I with these differences an ability to skip the misery of Ender machines all together. Enders certainly can make some great prints, but the downtime and constant adjustments could turn off the biggest enthusiasts. They are entry level machines at best. There is absolutely no way an Ender machine could keep up with a Bambu P1P either. The mechanics involved in a P1P simply are far superior in every way. I have adjusted everything possible in the Ender. I did not buy the filament sensor because I didn’t want to waste the money on two machines that had more issues than carrying a bowling ball in a wet paper bag. Ender is like buying a Honda Civic compared to a Lamborghini. They both will get you there but the Lambo will get you there faster and with better results. There is no comparison to the quality of prints with these two printers either. You have to have a Bambu to see and feel the difference. I do appreciate the comment, they help everyone 😊

[@NeonDreams7]

@@ITSTHISEASY * Laughs in Ender 3 NG *

[@NeonDreams7]

But is all seriousness, I have three Ender 3 units of different flavors and a Bambu X1 Carbon. I do agree with your statements and I've suggested friends of mine to go with a P1S, they couldn't be happier. I tell them stories of how like in 2018, for every hour of printing we would have to spend 2 hours of troubleshooting our Ender 3 units. I love that people can just get in to printing and not think about it. But as I cruse Reddit, there are more and more people upset and willing to throw their Bambu P1/X1 units in the lake and want a full refund if it even so much as has bed adhesion issues. Some even complain about TOO much bed adhesion. (Something we could only ever dream about). But anyway, you should look at the Ender 3 NG and breath some new life in to those old printers. That conversion can hang with a Bambu P1. If not, think about making a Recreator 3D unit and recycle some old bottles in to PET filament.

[@victorm7274]

for ASA use Emerson washable school glue (disappearing purple).$1.79 its a life saver

[@ITSTHISEASY]

Thanks for the tip. Supposedly I won’t need any glue. I don’t for PLA either. The bed covers with the correct temperature prevents the use of glue so they say at Bambu. I have not needed to use it at all for PLA and or scrape the bed once. That’s at 60C for PLA and they say 80C for ASA with a different bed plate which I just purchased last night off Amazon. So far I love not needing to scrape the bed and have the prints just come off. The plate I’m using also leaves a nice imprint on the bottom of the models that gives it a nice finished look unlike the Ended bed plates. If you have a Bambu then I guess you know better and maybe I will need the glue once I try but hopefully you don’t and I won’t lol 😂. Thank you for taking the time to help me with the tip. Happy printing.

[@victorm7274]

@@ITSTHISEASY my wife bought me a P1S for x-mass. best present 😁. believe me you will need glue for ASA. I couldn't bring myself to buy a $16 glue stick. so I did everything I could to try to get the filament to stick to the plate. i tried going higher on the heat plate , I tried cleaning my plate with alcohol, i tried dish soap, it was getting frustrating. I waisted a ton of filament. until i watched a guy on utube , he was using the $1.79 kids glue stick i figured it couldn't hurt to try and for $1.79 it vwas worth a try. i haven had a fail ASA print fail yet.👍

[@pomales]

concrete slab / paver will help with rattle and the sound. CNCKitchen did a video on it "Seriously the BEST $2 3D printer upgrade!"

[@ITSTHISEASY]

Where do I put it? Underneath the printer? And thanks for the comment and idea 😊

[@pomales]

@@ITSTHISEASY yes, under as a base.

[@ITSTHISEASY]

Watched his video, thanks for the head up idea. 💡

[@xXKisskerXx]

not just a concrete slab, a slab helps absorb, but if you don't put a thick foam block under it - it won't dampen. you need both dense, and squishy material to get the sound deadening qualities some desire.

[@AnnaVannieuwenhuyse]

​@@xXKisskerXx Almost there! The concrete slab needs to contact the printer because it becomes part of the printer. The extra mass is useful for dampening the vibrations because it absorbs a lot of energy and takes a lot of energy to move around. A higher mass object always takes more energy put in to make it move the same amount as a lower mass object. The foam underneath the slab, then, is not part of the printer+slab. Its function is to *decouple*. Due to the characteristics of the mass that is your printer, it won't dampen equally well all across its possible pain points. It will still move a little bit, and higher frequency energy will be less impacted by the concrete slab. The decoupling lets the printer+slab move to its own tune, separate from the surface underneath this all. The foam underneath the slab should ideally not be too soft, nor too hard. The reason for this is because of both the tradeoffs in traction versus rigidity, but also the fact that a semi solid, semi squishy material has both decoupling and dampening properties by itself -- a bit like rubber does. It all revolves around augmenting the acoustic excitability of your masses, and making it harder to move by adding mass is a pretty solid starter.

[@JackInTheShop]

Bambi Labs?? LOL I mistype my crap all the time

[@ITSTHISEASY]

Thanks for the heads up. I use my iPhone to upload my videos and these darn things always autocorrect which drives me insane. Fixed it thanks bud lol 😂