Bandai 1/60 Big Scale Real Detail Strike Gundam 4: Using Mr. Metal Color metallics

Hey ho! I am on a roll with this puppy! Welcome back to part four of the 1/60 Big Scale Real Detail Strike Gundam build. In this episode I try out Mr. Hobby Mr. Metal Color metallic paints for the first time, and like the results! I show how to use them and how to get the best results. Enjoy!
WARNING: These are LACQUER paints so don't even THINK about using these unless you have a spray booth, ventilator (not a dust mask) and a solvent-proof airbrush. Failure to use these will result in a ruined airbrush, illness, potential permanent respiratory damage and a visit to the sad factory. It is not recommended that builders under 18 use these paints AT ALL.
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All music used herein unless otherwise credited in the titles is by Foxx Wolf / dogsounds and used with permission - from me, because I composed, arranged and recorded it, and it is all original work ^_^
Sounds effects used provided by freesfx.co.uk www.freesfx.co.uk

[@hootenstein8802]

What a great and fortunate coincidence! I just purchased a pot of this, and few other colors. Was slightly unsure how the paint would turn out, but after the video I am sure to be satisfied. Thanks :D

[@gurufoxx]

Great timing! Just make sure your airbrush is solvent-proof and ideally not a 0.5mm like my revolution which uses up paint like it is going out of fashion ^_^

[@outlawrallyrob]

frist video of your I've seen really good love it nice one mate

[@gurufoxx]

Thank you :)

[@gordongriffith9047]

I got a question what's the difference aboutMr. Color Spray S028 Gloss Metallic Steel with Mr Metal

[@gurufoxx]

TH S Series rattlecan paints are just paints - you spray them on, and that's it. On the other hand, the Mr Metal paints are special buffable paints: once the paint is applied over a gloss black base or gloss black primer and has had five minutes to cure you can polish it with a soft cloth or cotton bud to change it from a dull grey fuzzy colour to a lustrous, shining and realistic metallic colour . They contain special metallic flakes (or graphite, I am not sure) that align when buffed and create that reflective lustre.

[@gundamfan2020]

just seen this kit for 40 quid hmmm might be tempted to do a custom build on this one.... pipe line of course kits to finish lol

[@gurufoxx]

This would be correct ^_^

[@andrewdouglas3409]

Just stumbled on your vids a few days ago and definitely the best I've found so far. I just bought my first Gunpla and wanted to paint the frame. Is there any paint you would suggest is best for brushing on? Can't justify an airbrush just yet but would like a good metallic finish to go with the red Titanium Finish on my sinanju. Cheers.

[@gurufoxx]

For brushing (acrylics) you can't really beat Citadel paints, or second best would be Vallejo Game colour paints. I find Citadel is easy to work to get a smooth finish. Lacquer paints give the best finish of all, such as Mr Colour lacquers, but I can't stand the excessive fumes they give off. I did a series on airbrush-free brush painting a whole gunpla, have a looky-see: kzbin.info/www/bejne/rnKriJ2ArMaLo9k&list=PLT8l3DNUdcBB-dRoXP9eB1f4ewc87-ANC&index=1

[@gurufoxx]

HOWEVER if you are only talking about the frame, then another option is to paint the frame black and then dry-brush the metallic colours over that. Dry-brushing metallics - even to completely paint a surface - always gives a lovely, smooth finish. For that you might like to try some of the metallics from Citadel - I find a triple layer effect works well - for example, you could do the base or primer coat matt black, then drybrush the whole thing in Citadel Leadbelcher to re-colour it, and then do another dry brush of something brighter, but this time only over edges and where you want highlights - something like Citadel Necron Compound or Tamiya Chrome Silver, which gives a lovely shiny metal finish when dry brushed. Also, sometimes doing a dark wash between the two metallic coats emphasizes the recess and gives a nice depth effect (e.g. black primer or basecoat, dry brush metallic coat, dark wash, dry brush metallic highlight coat). However, all these methods above will give a slightly used look, anything from a little tarnished to full-on weathered. If you want a super clean look, you might like to just use one single bright colour over the black, like Chrome Silver, followed by a gloss coat. Or, Mr Metal buffable lacquers can be brushed on and then buffed to give a nice shiny effect. Lastly, a super clean effect can be obtained by something like C1 Metalizer, a metallic buffing compound, that you apply as a powder over a gloss black finish and then buff off to get a nice metallic clean shine. Works better on flat areas like exterior armour though, rather than frame parts which are full of recesses and details.

[@andrewdouglas3409]

Thanks for such a fast, informative response 😎. Loads of awesome tips there for me to consider. I'll definitely check out the videos from the link. Keep up the great work! I haven't even started painting yet but watching the videos makes me confident I will do a good job. Cheers.

[@gurufoxx]

I'm sure you will :)

[@shovelfighter54]

Awesome video as usual foxx.Ever thought about live streaming your builds on twitch?

[@gurufoxx]

I have, I had considered me doing the build and my good friend Busby (he of the Heavyarms) doing the reading comments kind of thing, but right now I don't have the hardware (i.e. cameras, mics) to do it.

[@credo4568]

PLEASE HELP!! My Iwata Neo CN says: "Internal PTFE needle packing for use with solvent-based paints." Does that mean I am totally solvent Proof?? Thanks, Fox!

[@gurufoxx]

Yep, you should be fine with solvent-based paints :)

[@breadiztasty]

oh yeah,and next time when buffing,rub in tiny circles,it will get it buffed better

[@gurufoxx]

I learned all that afterwards :)

[@nugame406]

How many layers of paint to achieve this?

[@gurufoxx]

Just what I show in the video, one coat of the Mt Metal Colour paint is all you need :)

[@MRPIGGLES1]

ehhh, i have the same mask and used it for a different purpose, but if i remember correctly, there was written that if you can still smell something, then the filters you use are not the correct ones for your purpose and that the dangerous fumes are still getting through. maybe reread the instructions or check your filters? but I'm a total noob when it comes to this, but since you said these are dangerous you should maybe have a look. i know this video is old, but maybe its still a thing you use

[@gurufoxx]

When spraying paint you must ensure the filters protect against VOCs (Volatile Organic Chemicals), paint fumes and vapours. The cartridges I use also have a particulate filter as well. And yes. if you can smell the paint, you either have the incorrect filters or your filters need replacing ^_^

[@uss717hamptonify]

I believe the metallics tend to rub off if handled after buffing right? Is it advisable to topcoat it or does topcoat dull the metallic effect? Thanks

[@gurufoxx]

The paint is a lacquer so quite durable, but what handling will impart os fingerprints and hand-jam over time. ,Although it will take a gloss coat, it can dull the metallic sheen somewhat (it varies depending on the gloss coat). If you want to maintain the sheen, just make sure to avoid handling the model once posed and in your cabinet, and when you do need to handle it, wear gloves to avoid hand schmutz and fingerprints :)

[@gundamfan2020]

that stuffs amazing would be good for swords and blades

[@gurufoxx]

I'm going to use the Chrome Silver on the armour schneider blades ^_^

[@gundamfan2020]

Modelmaking Guru Yeah the type f I'm building is all blades and has nubs on the edges bad bad bandai. so I'll prime and use buffing paint will look much better.

[@gundamfan2020]

Modelmaking Guru Yeah buds for start then cotton wool for shine will look great and un sealed for organic look

[@thebaron222]

If you can smell the paint it means your respirator is not working.

[@gurufoxx]

It means it's time to change the filters, or the MANLY BEARD needs a trim :)

[@qwert54965]

how many layer of metalic did you do before you buff it?

[@qwert54965]

and is that black primer or just black paint?

[@gurufoxx]

IIRC it is just black primer - I shoudl have ideally painted it gloss black befored applying the metallics, but I had no gloss black lacquer paint and was not looking for the shiniest chrome finish ever. IIRC it was just the one coat of paint, but built up in several thin misty layers, not all put on in one go.

[@bornjohn839]

what black primer? tamiya or mr color? if mr color what is the code?

[@6Northwoods2]

How's the perfect grade Zaku coming along.

[@gurufoxx]

Slowly, the frame needs detailing, assembling and glossing ^_^

[@6Northwoods2]

tedious work I see can't wait for another video your content is amazing :)

[@gurufoxx]

Thank you :)

[@Brian-mi5kg]

how long have you been doing model kits?

[@gurufoxx]

Since I was a kid, so maybe thirty-odd years.

[@dhanangprawiranugraha8257]

how many comparasion between thinner and paint? and preasure form the airbrush?

[@gurufoxx]

There is no specific thinning ratio - thin the paint until it is about as thick as skimmed milk. As for pressure, that depends on the paint and your equipment, but for acrylics, typically between 15-20psi is fine.

[@dhanangprawiranugraha8257]

@@gurufoxx if i used laquer or acrysion how many psi for the airbrush??

[@gurufoxx]

@@dhanangprawiranugraha8257 Lacquers are much thinner than acrylics, so usually need around 12-15psi, maybe even lower depending on your setup.

[@dhanangprawiranugraha8257]

@@gurufoxx OKE, thanks

[@migel_zhen4050]

What happen if when you apply top coat on that mr. Metal color , does it look less like a metal...? Cuz I'm planning on using mr.metal color then top coat it...

[@gurufoxx]

Mot gloss varnishes will dull the shine a little, sometimes they still look metallic, sometimes they come out just looking grey :) I would run a test first on a spare part to see what happens. It is a lacquer paint though, so once the model is build if you are never going to handle it or re-pose it, it won't necessarily need varnishing.

[@migel_zhen4050]

Modelmaking Guru now thats the problem I often pose My model , Maybe I do trial and error on plastic spoon

[@gurufoxx]

It's always best to test out new stuff if you are not sure ^_^

[@simontabor6288]

What is the thinning ratio for this stuff?

[@gurufoxx]

For Mr Metal Colour, none at all - they are lacquers and already very very thin. But with all paints, there are no such things as correct thinning ratios - it's all nonsense and varies from paint to paint and even from colour to colour. Just make sure paints are no thicker than skimmed milk and you should be fine.

[@TheBatNaz]

Would that paint work if you brush painted it?

[@gurufoxx]

I tried a test last night with brushing and it does ^_^ Although I have yet to figure out the optimum drying time before you go in and start buffing. I'll be using the chrome on things like the pistons on the arms, brushed on and buffed. Still had to wear a mask though, the fumes are a nightmare.

[@TheBatNaz]

That settles it, i'm definitely ordering some on payday. That and some Ultimate primer... you are starting to cost me a fortune

[@gurufoxx]

I deny everything ^_^

[@piddlehead]

Jeez! If I'm going to do that much cleaning I may as well clean house. (and thats not happening) :)

[@gurufoxx]

Yeah, it is a pain ^_^

[@jameslauramore4277]

dude one day....its been one day and I've seen two videos!....ping pong anyone(by any one I mean....foxx you tellem)

[@gurufoxx]

He he luckily there are not millions of parts to this kit so I can do a bit, edit video whilst it dries, and do a bit more the next day. Besides, I need to keep working hard - the more industrious I am, the faster I can get the builds sold ^_^

[@jameslauramore4277]

You could start a company! Lol

[@gurufoxx]

Been there, done that ^_^

[@jameslauramore4277]

+Modelmaking Guru yea maybe you have...and I didn't pay close enough attention....my bad