05 Odyssey Belt Tensioner Assembly Replacement

In this video I'll show how to replace a serpentine belt tensioner assembly on an 05 Honda Odyssey 3.5L. Of coarse, I don't actually replace my tensioner assembly but the way I removed and replaced my tensioner assembly is the same process as replacing it. This is a relatively simple job but, it can be difficult as the the working area is very tight and the tensioner can seem to be difficult to move. The tensioner used is not a typical spring loaded tensioner. You'll need to take your time when moving the tensioner. Constant pressure is key. You'll notice that the tensioner will slowly move. Just take your time.
Note: The technique used at the end to install the belt where I used a jack handle to extend the trow of the ratchet is not the correct way to use a ratchet. Use this technique at your own risk. Damage to tools may occur. I would actually recommend using a serpentine belt tool for this job.
DISCLAIMER
Barbour's Auto Help is not responsible for any damage or personal injury incurred in the process of performing any auto repairs done by you the viewer. Automotive repair is extremely dangerous. Repair your vehicle at your own risk. It is the viewers responsibility to verify all information and procedures as outlined in YOUR REPAIR MANUAL AND OWNERS MANUAL FOR YOUR VEHICLE. Owning and using a repair manual suited for your vehicle is essential for correctly and safely performing ANY repair to your vehicle. Always wear safety glasses and heed all instructions for use applicable to any piece of equipment you may use. Due to circumstances out of the control of Barbours Auto Help, Barbours Auto Help makes no guaranty that by the use of the information given in this video a quality repair will be made. Barbour'sAutoHelp makes no guaranty that the information provided is totally complete, syncronized and accurate. Verify everything using an appropriate repair manual. Follow the repair manual over this videos content. You can do it. Do it right and do it safely.

[@luisvicens6392]

Changing the alternator. The top nut on the tensioner was almost stripped and of course I finished the job. Ordered a new tensioner. Then I realized about the "bottom nut" and you showed me what turned out the easy way. Thank you!

[@BarboursAutoHelp]

No problem

[@rudyzz4301]

This happened to me! I stripped the top one but I did not know there’s one at the bottom!

[@MrSoulMonk]

Great video. It is very difficult to film this due to the cramped space, but you did a great job. I never thought about loosening the belt by cranking down on the dummy bolt from the bottom! I had tried the special tool from the top and it was not easy. I will remember your technique for the future. I know that putting the tensioner pulley back on is a little tricky. Thanks for the video.

[@BarboursAutoHelp]

No problem

[@DavidNolan7]

Yes! The top dummy nut on mine is stripped and after a couple hours of researching I finally came across this video which showed the lower one being used. Thank you so much!

[@noecampos1359]

I do little different i put the belt all around on the tensioner to,. And the most ease one on the top. At the last that way I don't put my fingers in risk and is more ease.

[@chuckdales4522]

Thank you very much for taking the time to do such a professional video period that is giving me a good idea what I need to do period And I appreciate it very much

[@CyclicRedundancy1]

really great video. Thanks for taking the time.

[@10100digit]

Awesome Video Thanks, only thing I would add is replacing the tensioner makes reinstall much easier, not sure why when they age its harder to move them but new tensioner moves a lot easier then the old one did, your belt install was great though much easier to get it over the non-ribbed tensioner then any of the other pulleys.

[@BarboursAutoHelp]

Thanks!!

[@mwsc]

Great description. Thanks very much.

[@BarboursAutoHelp]

Your welcome

[@behindthewoodshed3042]

Good explanation and visuals' thanks!

[@travisbenningfield9095]

Great video!

[@hernangfragoso610]

What’s the torque?

[@bman8975]

I have a question. I have a 2005 Honda Odyssey myself. And the bottom bolt that goes through the "strut" and holds the assembly o the motor broke off inside that screw hole and I was wondering if you could tell me the name of where that bolt broke off

[@atola5349]

I sheared off the top dummy bolt using my cheater bar after replacing my alternator. I was trying to put the belt back on. I freaked out honestly! Do you think i can get enough torque on the bottom dummy bolt to get the belt back on? I can't believe the amount of pressure it takes to set it back in place, its insane!! Thanks for the detailed video.

[@BarboursAutoHelp]

You probably can, but I'd do it from underneath the vehicle. Loosen it the same way you do when taking the belt off. Be sure to look at where that dummy bolt sheared off and make sure the tesnioner isn't cracked all the way through. It may be best to replace the tensioner at this point if the strength of it is compromised.

[@cubmancan]

Really Good Video! Do you happen to know if this tensioner style is replaceable with the "LX / EX" style that seems a bit simpler. I've heard of bolt breaking problems, I think it is with this style tensioner. Thanks much!

[@BarboursAutoHelp]

Not sure

[@fromundadeez4823]

I’m here due to a broken bolt. Broke at random with no issues before. Actually seems common from what I’ve noticed. Had to remove alternator and ac compressor to get the bracket off and extract the broken bolt

[@chriscook1278]

The top nut on the tensioner assembly broke off. Do I need to replace the entire tensionser or can I use the other nut you spoke of?

[@BillB7117]

When I removed this assembly off my 06 Touring I didn't see the "Star" washer on the back of the long mounting bolt. Is that washer necessary for reinstall?

[@omgreptar557]

Thanks for the video! Can you please put a link for the replacement part you purchased/used?

[@BarboursAutoHelp]

I didn't replace the part, my friend. However, I'm sure you can call most parts stores and get prices. You can even go online and find the part rather handily.

[@omgreptar557]

Barbour's Auto Help I generally shop online, however it appears that when I search, there are two very similar albeit different parts that show up. I was uncertain which one was needed. Thanks for your help though.

[@BarboursAutoHelp]

Try rockauto.com. I've had good results with them. They break things up for you and make finding correct parts very easy. (rockuto.com not a sponsor of Barbours Auto Help.)

[@lancegoens747]

I've been fighting "power steering whine" on my 07 Odyssey. Replaced the power steering pump again today and the noise continues... again. Wondering if it's the tensioner instead. I unplugged the alternator (as others have suggested to see if its alternator diode issue) and that didn't affect the noise. It's driving me crazy. What does a failed tensioner sound like - similar to PS whining? Other thoughts? I dont see bubbles in the PS reservoir so I'm beginning to thing it's not PS. Plus steering assist has been fine, no PS fluid leaks either.

[@BarboursAutoHelp]

Does the noise get worse when turning? Has the O-ring been replaced where the high pressure power steering line bolts up to the pump? It may not be your power steering. A tensioner pulley could sound similar. But, so could an alternator bearing.

[@BarboursAutoHelp]

Here is a good video that may help you. kzbin.info/www/bejne/gIOrm2yVpdyrbdE

[@ickybro]

my bad idler pulley, the top one on this assembly, makes a power steering pump whine. I'm going to replace it today. studying with this video now.

[@atxjax1]

Thanks for the video. Since both those pulleys are metal..............can the bearings be pressed out and in? Reason I ask is bearings cost way less than a whole tensioner.

[@BarboursAutoHelp]

Do they sell just the bearings for this?

[@atxjax1]

@@BarboursAutoHelp Thats what Im trying to find out without having to dissasemble mine first. Im sure the bearings in the pulleys are pressed in and can be replaced. Just gotta find out what number bearing they are.

[@BarboursAutoHelp]

@@atxjax1 Give your local parts store a call and ask them. Just give them your vehicle information and ask them if they have just he bearings for the tensioner pulleys. Or you can call the dealership. Or you can search on the internet for it.

[@atxjax1]

@@BarboursAutoHelp Pulled off the Idler pulley today. That's the one with the T50 bolt. I can tell you that bearing is a 6303 ( 17 x 47 x14 ) . I replaced it without having to remove the whole assembly. and my squeak issue went away. Total cost was $4.32. The tensioner bearing should be a 6203 ( 17 x 40 x 12 ) . I left that one alone as it was still good and didn't wanna jack with that long bolt. This would be a good option if you dont want to drop over a hundred for a new tensioner assembly.

[@lakersbaby6754]

@@atxjax1 Hello! For the bearings you used, do you happen to know what type? Is there any special type? I was going to buy the NSK brand and noticed they had ZZ and DDU type. Please let me know and thanks again for the info! Will save a lot of money changing out just the bearing.

[@a.h.5314]

Is this exactly the same part and process for the 2004 Honda Odyssey Ex?

[@BarboursAutoHelp]

I'm really not sure.

[@patricialimberakis3648]

What is the 17 mm and 12 mm torque specs please

[@friendlyotakool9530]

How do you adjust the tension of the belt, like tighten it.

[@BarboursAutoHelp]

You don't. It's an automatic tensioner.

[@Yourfishman]

You left off the most important info... What's the torque specs??

[@BarboursAutoHelp]

You will need a manual. I hardly ever provide torque specs to encourage viewers to get a manual.

[@packerman1203]

All these “dummy nuts” want to do to me are strip out, seriously i put the belt on, had to take it off, and now putting it back on it stripped out, this tensioner was brand new and im using the Schley tensioner tool that says in the description that it was made for these pulleys and wont strip it, ive had 3 of these tensioners in the year of owning my 2010 accord crosstour, i replaced the tensioner when i got the car and the (im guessing oem) tensioner’s fake nut broke in half right as we finished the job, so i had to replace it, the second and third tensioners came from rockauto through a company called skp, they are made of the cheapest aluminum possible and they dont last 2 belt changes, i had to warranty one before i even got to put the belt back on it because the fake nut wasnt stronger than the hydraulic piston, same story with the third one and im giving up on that and having them refund me again, lets hope an oem one is better cheap aluminum for triple the cost

[@okra2958]

The oem tensioner sucks as well….just more expensive. I am surprised that Honda engineered this piece of crap! The worst thing is I absolutely love the j30 engine. 🤦🏼‍♂️

[@sergiolozano6464]

Need 2003

[@adamUDavies]

This was a terrible design by Honda , as long as they have been in business they could have made it simpler.