Bark River Bravo 1 chip removal

My Bravo 1 in CPM-3V got some major chips while working on a piece of wood that apparently had some rusty iron nails in it.
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[@virtuovice]

You were unlucky! I once was incautious about sand on the end of cut logs before batoning them. Then my 3V Bravo1 took chip looking dents from the sand. I remember its restoration was very tough and increased the edge angle a little. So let's be careful not to make edge troubles to our precious Bark River knives. I love your statement that you don't care about the scratches over the polished portion. Total mirror is just aesthetic. We should need the practical mirror, the proof of the stone sharpened keenest edge. Stay safe!

[@DutchBushcraftKnives]

+virtuovice I think these were the heaviest chips I ever had. Thanks to your recommended shapton stones it was quite easy to get rid of them. On my chosera stone it would have taken more than an hour I think and a lot of stone flattening. I think our sharpening technique is the same so our edges are relatively the same as well. With our intensive and hard knife use it doesn't benefit making an aesthetic edge as we have to resharpen our knives often. Also making a secondary v edge to keep a silk finished bevel is not an option for us. Only my weakest steel blades get a secondary convex but never a V edge. For me our sharpened mirror bevels are also beautiful enough and show that we use our knives. Best to you and your family! And happy bushcraft for this last month until hunting season.

[@Nessunego]

I would like to thank you again. Thanks to your tutorials I was able to repair heavi chips on my old Opinelle n8 in just an hour and I gave him a full convex edge that is razor sharp yet very wear resistant. I really like your videos. Hope you go on enjoying yourselves and us all as well. Stay sharp!

[@DutchBushcraftKnives]

+Nessunego thanks a lot! You are very welcome!

[@Nessunego]

You two are awesome! Thanks to your teaching I was able to reprofile to convex grind and sharpen all my kitchen knives and I decided to buy a Fallkniven F1 (before I was scared that a convex grind was a nightmare to sharpen). You surely deserve my subscription and much much more ones.

[@kazuyasurioka5104]

It's good to know that I may fix chips of CPM-3V before I buy them. Thanks!

[@evansimmons6894]

It’s amazing how much your videos have changed from then until now in 2020! Funny hearing Mikkie B. talking in the background and walking by!

[@Scupper7]

Awesome video! I'm super glad I found you guys on KZbin!! I really want to make a trip out there and have you guys teach me how to sharpen my knifes!!!

[@BIGAL1973]

Really cool video dude just getting my first bravo 1 lt and I will some of your methods you’ve shown hear does cpm3v respond well to ceramic rods

[@jayp.2313]

I learned a lot on this vision thanks Martin now I know what to do with there stones I bought.

[@DutchBushcraftKnives]

+Jay P. You are welcome!

[@TheAnvil1971]

Nice work on the blade - you have done pretty well! Thanks for sharing this video with us. Greetings from Germany!

[@DutchBushcraftKnives]

thanks a lot !

[@m00nsplitter72]

Some handy tips and a nicely worked edge. Your 120 grit stone looks like a winner, cutting the 3V surprisingly quickly. I would have liked to have seen a video of your expression when you first saw those dings!

[@DutchBushcraftKnives]

+M00nsplitter Hahaha When cutting the wood I just thought that they were little knots of branches but when I saw the blade I was kinda sick about it knowing the work I would have to go trough to fix it. I am very happy with my 120 stone. I ordered them directly from Japan and the prices on them are really good. The 220 stone is kind of soft though so I only use it to get make the 120 scratchess less deep. Thanks for your comment and compliment! nice to hear from you again!

[@TheMightybasstone]

Hey DBK, have y'all tested the Bark River Bravo Survivor?? I really like that big knife. More of a survival knife than a bushcraft knife but still awesome

[@dylanh8927]

You could even make a jig to hold your stones you have already and that would be 100 % better. Love ya guys

[@wescobts]

Well done

[@ThrashRoC]

You did an ABSOLUTE Great Job on that Knive !

[@DutchBushcraftKnives]

Thanks a lot jimi!

[@ThrashRoC]

@@DutchBushcraftKnives I am far from an expert .. But if I compare that to virtuovice, then you can probably let yourself be called a Japanese. And ... do you know what I just ordered? A Bark River Aurora II (of course in 2 CPM 3V ..) REALLY it should be an Aurora, but TOTALLY sold out. Now the Aurora II ... comes to my collection My first bark river .. Greetz from Germany

[@williamkang9475]

Hey guys can you make a video on the bushcrafter from bark river? Also did you guys reground the edge on the bushcrafter?

[@GetMeThere1]

The KME sharpening system now has available a curved rod, for sharpening convex grinds.

[@PaulK390S90V]

Oh and one other thing...I have the shapton 120 and 320...do you think I need the 220 or will the rep get the scratches out easily enough? Maybe that's why I still see some scratches at the end...maybe I need the 220...hmmm what do you think?

[@DutchBushcraftKnives]

the 220 is crap. It's waaaay softer than the 120 stone and will wear like crazy. I also don't think you need it. I use a naniwa chosera 400 after my 120 stone and get rid of all my scratches.

[@Lawman-196]

Good vid, but this is the first knife that after of year of trying to like it, I sold it. Not a fan, dulled way too easy, and tarnished really badly. Bought the Benchmade Bushcrafter after the Bravo, and ended up loving it.

[@Quique3982]

Anyone know how to make that wrist lanyard?

[@PaulK390S90V]

So when doing a real convex you dont worry about going above the original bevel? You actually want to and remove the top of the v-edge. And as you go through your grits that higher convex bevel will just polish out eventually and blend in?

[@DutchBushcraftKnives]

If I understand you correctly you are right!

[@PaulK390S90V]

Do you like the shapton 5k more than the chosera 5k? I think I heard you say that before. That it polishes better or something...and certainly cheaper!

[@DutchBushcraftKnives]

yes! The naniwa 5k seems to be softer than the other naniwa's. Shapton 5k is harder. the feel is less nice though. The 5k shapton ha no kuromaku definitely leaves a nice polish.

[@labreezy2275]

Wish I could sharpen knifes like you 😭 I got a Smith tri-hone and a cheap buck knife to practice on for now 💪

[@TJackSurvival]

Hey Dutch Bushcraft Knives. Just as a heads up Bark River will warranty this and fix it for you, if you mess it up in the future. Ty

[@DutchBushcraftKnives]

+TJack Survival Bark river has excellent warranty. I have used it before but we can fix these chips ourselves with the proper water stones. I don't care about a perfect mirror polish or silk finish on my blade. It is made to be a hard-usage tool :) and it's good at it.

[@dias17se]

According to bark river, chopping a chop stick is knife abuse, so i dont think so

[@merlynquasar6214]

BlueBerry14 that was along time ago now you can destroy you're knife on purpose and the will replace it

[@psychedeliccheese]

Blown away by the shaving at the end.

[@metallican2295]

I've only been sharpening for about a year so forgive me if I don't know this but, why don't you use diamond stones? for me they are very quick with even the higher grit, the only reasons I could think of are the price and how aggressive they are.

[@DutchBushcraftKnives]

the price isn't the issue as these water stones vary between $40,- and $200,- as well. I don't like how aggressive the diamond plates are. You won't see any Japanese sushi chef use a diamond plate. Water stones are more versatile as you can achieve different results with 1 stone by adjusting pressure, water and applying slurry from nagura stones. A diamond plate will have a shorter lifespan as well most of the time as the diamond particles will break of the plate over time. I do have some diamond plates but I only use them to flatten my water stones there days. I do like a diamond plate for sharpening tools in my shed though. In the end it's also a matter of preference. I really like the feeling of the water and the water stones. it's kinda relaxing.

[@metallican2295]

Dutch Bushcraft Knives Thanks for responding, I haven't been able to use any water stones yet, I've been afraid I would spend too much money and damage them, I may try them now that I have more experience.

[@thatguythatdoesstuff7448]

metallican2295 I started with a few DMT diamond stones. I agree that they wear out quickly. My 220 is now more like a 600 and has been relegated to flattening my waterstones. The higher grits are worthless anymore, and I didn't do much with them. Mostly keeping woodworking tools "sharp" and sharpening outdoors and kitchen knives. I made the switch to Shapton waterstones around 5 years ago and realize now that I had no idea what a sharp edge was until I became proficient with them. And they last. I don't do a lot of repair or reprofiling, so the 220 barely gets used. The 1000 gets the most use (kitchen) and will probably last 15-20 years as far as I can tell. Pretty damn good for a $55 (USD) stone. I'll never use anything but Shapton again.

[@NvincibleIronMan]

Just curious, but is there any reason you flip the edge/apex towards you to grind the other side? Why not flip the handle to your left hand so you can grind the other side while keeping an eye on the spine to preserve the grind angle?

[@DutchBushcraftKnives]

+NvincibleIronMan left hand sharpening is something you have to learn. It's hard to be as controlled with left as with right (if you are right handed that is). It certainly is used a lot by Japanese chefs etc. I tried to learn it but i was very content with the results i got and still get. I sharpen a lot on sound. You can hear if the angle is the same from the sound the stone makes. If you are starting water stone sharpening I'd recommend trying left handed from the start

[@NvincibleIronMan]

Nice! Learning a lot from you guys! Can't wait for DBK merch. Happy to shop Armadillo Merino in the mean time!

[@JoeSmith-el9yt]

any rust issues with that 3v steel?

[@gunny4029]

i also don't recommend sand paper b/c it just keeps the same bevel angle and you loose the thinness to keep a sharp blade. and i stopped trying to keep a pure scandi edge so i let it convex a bit so i gave up on them and stick with a fuller convex grind, like the bark river knives. i hear you cannot use diamond on steels like 3v, i would think they would cut faster and not concave .

[@DutchBushcraftKnives]

+ramble on trying to keep a perfect scandi on stones is frustrating. I dont care about true scandi. Slight convex will make the edge stronger.

[@ericalbert6954]

Merci beaucoup l'Ami

[@frederikkjaer4170]

Do you know how fast the Skerper Pro 220 cuts? I have one at it seems to take forever to get chips out of even simple steels like 12c27. Anything to solve this?

[@DutchBushcraftKnives]

I know skerper is similar to the softer stones from naniwa. It should be fine for 12c27 thought. keeping a true scandi while getting out chips takes quite some time sadly.

[@frederikkjaer4170]

Dutch Bushcraft Knives any advice on solution? Shapton glass HR 120?

[@Dave-cl5no]

Is this like the first ever DBK video? So crazy how different it is!

[@raguz777]

today i sharpend my auora 3v with waterstones. was my first time that i sharpend a convexed knife with waterstones. but it was way easier than i thought and you get a way better edge as with sandpaper + mousepad...

[@DutchBushcraftKnives]

Hell yeah mate! It really opened up a new world for me as well! Convex is just the natural motion of the hand while sharpening.

[@raguz777]

you're absolutely right! keep up the good work guys!

[@caidelander2561]

So what do you think of the 5000 stone And why don’t you try using your left hand to sharpen Your angle looked quite small,how is it holding up?

[@DutchBushcraftKnives]

+Caide Lander the 5k ha no kuromaku is amazing. It leaves a great mirror. I find that cpm3v handles a small angle really well. I've tried getting used to sharpening with my left hand but stopped trying as I am now very satisfied about my results this way.

[@caidelander2561]

Dutch Bushcraft Knives I heard it was super soft

[@Wolf_K]

Caide Lander It’s not soft at all.

[@timpoe1015]

Where do you get the stones from Japan??? What grits are the best I like the shapton ha no kuromaku and Naniwa professional. This is an awesome video!!! Thanks for your time!

[@DutchBushcraftKnives]

+Tim Poe I got mine from diy-tool.com I always recommend a set with 400, 1000 and 3000 grit expandable with a 120 grit and 5000 grit stone

[@timpoe1015]

Thank you!!!

[@coryboyd7958]

That's incredible how sharp you get your knifes. I Joe to be able to buy some stones someday. would you give me your recommendation for the required beginners stones?

[@DutchBushcraftKnives]

+Cory Boyd I'd recommend these shapton ha no kuromaku stones or the professional series. They aren't cheap but the cheap stones just make sharpening a knife on stones a pain and you'll buy better stones anyway. A 400, 1000 and 3000 grit set combined with a strop should get you on the way

[@coryboyd7958]

Dutch Bushcraft Knives thank you Martin.

[@nandayane]

I unfortunately got a worse chip on my DBK bushcrafter, don’t know how I handed it to my buddy for 5 mins. will this way work to take it our without destroying the knife’s angle?

[@DutchBushcraftKnives]

Ah damn.... That sucks. Especially hurts when someone else does it 😭. This way will definitely work but you'll have to keep the Original angle by following the current angle on the stones. It's a matter of having enough experience on water stones. If you're uncomfortable I bet TRC will sharpen it for you

[@nandayane]

@@DutchBushcraftKnives Thanks for the reply, I may do that. I also have a worksharp Ken onion on order, do you have an angle setting that you guys would recommend for it? Definitely have some other blades that I will be re-sharpening first but am curious if it would work for a 0.5-0.7mm chip. Thanks again for making me aware of the option to send it in.

[@DutchBushcraftKnives]

@@nandayaneno problem! We actually free hand.on the belt grinding attachment and don't use the guide

[@MrOshimaida]

what are your thoughts on the barkriver bushcrafter with its grind vs this knife for bushcraft and general tasks? thanks..

[@DutchBushcraftKnives]

hey Oshi, My bushcrafter was from virtuovice. He had already resharpened it. I have had other bark river knives with similar grinds and they needed resharpening as the angle from bark rivers scandi-vex grind is a bit large. After resharpening the bark river bushcrafter is a very versatile bushcrafting knife with excellent handle geometry. It doesn't give hotspots. The blade shape and length makes it good for feathersticking, small wood batonning and carving. The bark river bravo 1 is primarily a survival knife. I think it was designed by a department of the US military as their primary knife. It was designed for survival so it's made to be very sturdy and would be able to do anything. This means the knife is very all-round but less nimble for smaller bushcrafting tasks like crafting or trap making. While it is able to do it the bushcrafter will be a better knife in these circumstances. For woodsplitting , prying and hacking the bravo 1 would excel. I like both knives very much and you wouldn't regret any of these. The bravo 1 has slight;y better handle geometry in my opinion but the bushcrafter is still very comfortable. So in a nutshell the bushcrafter would be a better General tasks / bushcraft knife in my honest opinion. The bravo 1 is a survival beast for the more tough jobs. hope this helped! stay sharp!

[@MrOshimaida]

+Dutch Bushcraft Knives, thank you for taking the time to provide me with that very detailed answer. Dr. Wako has carved his way into all of us. ✌ Thanks again. .

[@DutchBushcraftKnives]

He sure has! I owe a lot to him. You are very welcome!

[@frederikkjaer4170]

Dutch Bushcraft Knives so does that mean that if I buy a bushcrafter I will need to regrind it? Any advice on how to do this?

[@lincanesbury6522]

Where do you get you stone holders from lads?

[@irvinangon8944]

I got a stone from Amazon and it came with one of those holders, it's also a case for the stone

[@kev23dk]

do a shave your face challenge with one of the Bark River knives! Lets see how hair popping you can get that edge, would be an amazing video to see. Entertaining like always Im sure

[@syles286]

What site do you order your shapton stones from

[@DutchBushcraftKnives]

Diy-tool.com

[@joew9415]

Broham not one part of Dutch Bushcraft Knives videos is boring this shit is awesome.

[@DutchBushcraftKnives]

+Joe Williams haha thanks a lot

[@davidleavy2016]

Is this how bark River do it? I don’t think so.

[@oicfas4523]

Is that Mikkie in the background at 12:00?

[@DutchBushcraftKnives]

+oicfas4523 yup, it is.

[@luch9158]

I like your older videos better than your new ones. There's no theatrics.

[@semco72057]

I have stones which I use to sharpen my knives with and never wore it down like the one stone you have. Buck knives makes the bevel on their knives which is easy to find and the knives are easy to sharpen when done correctly. Good luck with that knife sharpener set and I hope you look up some sharpening tips and how to use them. Companies like Smith's have nice sharpeners and some come in one set with the course, medium, and fine stones together in one case.

[@udoodu8023]

Good job in that one 100 Points from Germany!

[@daniel.rosina]

The stone is not concave, but convex! Convex is something, into which you can pour water. Concave is something, from which the water flows down. To remember, how to distinguish between these two, there is a mnemotechnic help: you can pour water into convex, just like you can pour water into the top part of the letter/character "X" (which is contained inside the word conveX). So that "X" can remind you something like a glass of water, that can be filled up.

[@DutchBushcraftKnives]

Hey daniel, thanks a lot. That reminder is pretty good! However, I'm afraid convex really is like a beer belly and concave is hollow like a cave! Edit: i see where you're coming from! In math convex is indeed hollow and convave a hill. However in lenses for example a convex is fat and a concave hollow. Weird stuff! Learned something new today. As for knives convex is the same as it would be for a convex lense

[@daniel.rosina]

@@DutchBushcraftKnives I cannot paste here any picture to show you what is convex shape on that convex grind. I have sent it to you via email on [e-mail]

[@DutchBushcraftKnives]

@@daniel.rosina please mail us at [e-mail]

[@Anson120]

I like A-2. I think there is a reason bark river started out with tool steel.

[@gunny4029]

i think a1 is better but brk should still use some old fashion carbon, like a1. but this new steels got the best of carbon and stainless properties

[@astrazenica7783]

do it in front of mirror and u would see back of spine

[@DutchBushcraftKnives]

+Adam Smith actually not a bad Idea!

[@rogeriosartori555]

have a brazilian tactical knife brand FASB. you will cut steel nails like butter!

[@BOOSTEDLASER]

This first stone is not flat oO Also your angle is WAY too acute,like 10Deg/side. No wonder it chips.

[@DutchBushcraftKnives]

+BOOSTEDLASER The stone is a bit concave but the amount is no problem witht his 120 grit stone. CPM 3v can take this angle. i sharpen convex without a secondary bevel. This total angle geometry is around 30 degrees. The bravo 1 holds up fine. Sadly I hit some iron nails with this one.

[@reubenmtz]

How many times have y'all cut yourself sharpening knives? I only ask because I just sliced my FUCKING FINGER. Lol.

[@TJackSurvival]

That saddens me. That is an amazing blade. Rusty nails are no good! Great video! I subbed. Check out my channel if you like.

[@DutchBushcraftKnives]

+TJack Survival thanks a lot man! Ill check out your channel!

[@Wolf_K]

An easier and faster way to restore problems such as these is: 1- grind the apex on the stone (as if cutting into it) to remove all damaged steel and chips. You should now have light reflecting off of it. This also provides a visual guide to work from. 2- form the apex bevel at your desired angle. (Set the degrees and start grinding) 3- blend the shoulder section - connecting both main and apex bevels - into the main bevel and near apex bevel. Blend naturally so it doesn’t hinder your previously set apex angle. You now have one perfectly convex bevel fully restored. It sounds a little confusing to explain but the method works. Try it and your brain will figure it out as you go as it’s very simple. I used to use your method above but it is less than efficient.

[@patrickr3536]

Nope, the secondary bevel makes the Blade stronger. Bark River knives are only made for youtubers ;-) not for real use.

[@dylanh8927]

If you got a jig set up like wicked edge you'd never go back. All your doing is fucking up and scratching the he'll out of a 250$ knife, makes no sense why ppl on here think they know how to sharpen

[@DutchBushcraftKnives]

wicked edge puts on a secondary bevel on your 250 dollar knife leaving it with less preferable cutting capabilities in my opinion. I prefer water stones. I've tried wicked edge and many others but I just like to choose he grind im putting on. Some knives who need a secondary I just give a secondary convex.