WIRING A 240 VOLT 20 AMP PID CONTROLLER

[@rickmilkovic]

Mr.Duncan, I appreciate the way in which you are able to repurpose everyday items and incorporate them into your builds. A simple, cost efficient alternative to purchasing something we all have laying around👍👍

[@robbacon9969]

Won’t the outlet have constant 120?

[@lukek8032]

@@robbacon9969 I think it’s fine, because no neutral wire is hooked up. Not a complete system till the 2nd hot wire.

[@Me-ob5qc]

Mister, I can’t thank you enough for this video! When it comes to wiring and understanding electrical circuits I am a complete idiot but this is exactly what I need to operate my sterilization tank that I built. Currently it is running a 5500w element right off of the breaker with no control what so ever. Probably not safe and is definitely hell on my electric bill. I have watched countless videos explaining hoy to set something like this up and I never understood a single one of them! You have made this so simple that someone like me that is terrified of electrical work can face this project with confidence. Thank you so much sir for taking the time to show and explain this.

[@devrimaydin4824]

Very good, simple and explaining, including all the need details.

[@camdavbax]

Thank you so much for this video. You've no idea how helpful this was, and how quickly you answered questions I had about setting up a PID heater to maintain constant heat in my resin 3d printers.

[@jeffheld4887]

I was just watching all your other PID clips to see if you covered 240v wiring and here you just did exactly what i was looking for great video. I will be looking forward to your 240v with a 120v circuit for accessory like pump I have an idea on how to do it but you cover everything so well I will enjoy watching that one as well. Keep up the good work George.

[@jonathanc8513]

Same here :)

[@coreyblackburn9289]

You would need to run 4 wires instead of 3-wire but yes that would be a good video topic.

[@AndJusTIceForRob]

I would like to see this also.

[@kimmole1096]

If they need this.....maybe they need an electrician! Well done george, as usual, you've made this wireing understandable to all.

[@ki4clz]

The Ampacity of #12AWG in Free Air, by itself is: 30Amps The Ampacity of #12AWG in a Race, Conduit, or a Cable- in conjunction with Fault Current (ground), and Return Current (neutral) wire is: 20Amps (for a reasonable length under 75' of course...) Any insulated wire, rated at a certain temperature, placed in conjunction with other wire(s), in the same race, conduit or cable, must be "De-Rated" (distance must also be taken into consideration) Because Wire, when heated, looses Ampacity- its ability to carry a specified Current or Load is diminished when heated... plain and simple... Best practice is to derate the wire and just stick to that for all applications, so using this derated model as defined in the 2017 NFPA NEC 310.15 ("the code") the following would be a best practice: #6awg-60A #8awg- 40A #10awg- 30A #12awg- 20A #14awg- 15A #16awg- 10A #18awg- 7A The formula for this is as follows: Tp= Ta+(In²/It²)(Tm-Tt) Where: Tp: Operating temperature Ta: Actual or expected ambient temperature In: design current of the circuit (this would be your Load) It: value of the current tabulated Tm: Maximum permitted current of conductor (this is listed on the wire, typically 70C or 90C) Tt: ambient Temperature +30C A shortcut would be to -30% of the stated amperage of a wire in free air, and round down: Example: 30a/1.30=23.07 rounded down to 20A All wire Ampacities are listed as being "in free air" so caution must be taken whenever you have more than one wire to calculate the correct ampacity of the wire for the given circuit... Cheers! love your shows! I know y'all already know all of this; but maybe some folks could benefit from it... Joshua the Industrial Elechicken

[@brandywebster8877]

I am supper grateful for your simple step by step instruction!! It has given me some confidence to build my chicken scalder. Thank you!

[@andredeswardt5717]

If only I had you as my teacher at school😆 Cheers George 🍻

[@chuckdontknowdoya6100]

Another great video chocked full of very useful information you da man George keep them coming brother I promise to keep watching.

[@tjtague7460]

super helpful. I am trying to figure out how to wire a pid for much higher temps in a heat treating oven so this tutorial is great.

[@Bigpete9000]

It would be fun if you did a 'bells and whistles' build using din rail components ...contactors , circuit breakers, terminal blocks , NC/NO switches , XLR RTD probes.. would be cool to show beyond the basic.

[@BooGr1982]

Great video once again! Will be looking forward to the 240V + 120V Accy video!!Thanks buddy! Cheers 🍻

[@frankburk8930]

Just wanted to share with you and your viewers. Whenever I'm running hot through a white wire, I'll put a band of red electrical tape around it as a visual cue. Helps jog my memory and make it clear what's going on if I have to work on it later. Really appreciate your videos!

[@victorc6443]

Quick question, can one hook up 2 SSRs to 1 PID? ( I have 2 elements, so I was thinking they hook to the same pins and just 1 thermostat) thanks!

[@davidf8663]

Great Video! Would everything remain the same if I was using two legs of a 208 3Ph supply?

[@s00ti3]

Thank you for posting your practical information on still building and I do like the pid way of control. My question is, where I live I’m restricted to a A13A 240v out put. Have you got any information on how to achieve this. Thanks ste

[@tbeish82]

George, love the videos a lot! Thank you for making them!!! I'm building my second box from your direction. I built a 120v and it worked like a charm! Thank you. I'm building a 240 now. In this video, you mention a 240 with a 120 option. Did this video ever happen? I haven't found it, if so. I'd love to get that out if the 120v video is out there! Thanks!

[@aarontavcar4579]

Aaron from Victoria...Great video George...

[@BOOGIEBUFF]

great vis can I ask what wire are you using?

[@tmarkk99]

I love this video! Thank you so much George. Your straight talk is refreshing. I have a question. Is it possible to add another device in the mix to control the percentage of power to the heating element?

[@coreyrieman5231]

I’m interested is building an electric smoker. This makes sense, but will you not receive 120v to the element once you turn the switch on? Or is it inconsequential to have 120v entering your 240 element. I’m considering wiring the first leg of the 220 switch to one leg of the element directly, then running the second hot through the PID.

[@nealhamilton3881]

When the switch is turned on isn't one leg hot at the plug or element regardless if the relay is active? What does a 240 element do with just one leg active and the other disconnected? I'd think it might be a little bit of a safety concern as well with one leg hot which is why I'm asking if two relays ,one for each leg, would be a better setup? Thanks for all the work you do!

[@jimmynoname336]

Hi nice video than you. I'm building heat treat oven 2400 one element 240v . Do I need 2 ssr or one?

[@prtowell]

Awesome video. Got me up and going!!! Thank you!

[@johnbird9997]

Hello all! I'm assembling a panel to control a heating element. The element requires 240v 5500W. The circuit I have seen uses a hot leg off of each side of a 240V switch to 9 and 10 of the Inkbird ITC-106VH. An electrician here suggested using a fusable supply of 120V to the Inkbird instead. Every example I see uses opposite legs of the power supply to the load. Is it okay to have opposite legs of 120V from a separate outlet to the Inkbird while having it control a 240V load through the SS Relay? The breaker circuit is a 50A also, is that a problem?

[@jreedmx]

Do you use 12 gauge for switches to relat and 14 gauge to controllers or 12 gauge the whole qay

[@dawndavenport9139]

You are an incredible instructor

[@robertjohnson4407]

Are you going to go over the box you mount it in

[@jaimegonzales8545]

Hello George, can I use a ITC-308 as my 2nd 120v (hot) cable? Same idea, but I would really like to use the Wifi. Also 20AMP breaker. I the unit uses 7AMPS

[@waynewaggoner3513]

I have breakers already can you figure a price on everything else for the controller

[@paulkuziel7869]

Hey George! I will be running a single 5500w element on my 16 gal reflux Mile Hi still. Did you ever do a video on a 220v 30amp PID ? If my math is right 5500w works out to a 25amp draw at full power so requires a 30 amp feed . Any help would be greatly appreciated and keep up the great videos

[@JimiJam24]

Hey Paul, I'm doing exactly that myself in a 20 gallon build. My element is also 5500w which at 240v works out to be 22.96 amps which I'm calling 23 amps. If I'm not mistaken the only thing that needs to be changed in this equation is the 20 amp on/off switch. I bought a 30 amp switch and I'm adding that to my build. I already have a 50 amp and a 30 amp breaker that runs my welder so I'm using the same female and male plugs as the welder so as to not have to add a different style plug and I am only using one PID controller. We shall see.... GL to ya

[@copperstillco]

Did you all use the same 12 gauge wire or 10 ?

[@JimiJam24]

@@copperstillco I used 12 but I havent had the chance to try it yet. I'm hoping my equations work out right, If not there goes a 50 amp breaker I guess.

[@ivanfircks5097]

Thanks for the great video, how would you wire the rocker switch?

[@s9601694]

Hi what kind of breaker is that? Just a normal one that goes in a breaker box ? How do you mount it? Thanks!

[@serrano1558]

Good evening George, did you ever make the video showing the 220v controller with a 120v accessory circuit?

[@robertgull5275]

I will defenally enjoy a friendship with this guy ...

[@brewerjim3124]

So is the PID only controlling one leg of the 240v outlet? The white wire is uninterrupted and supplying 120v as soon as the switch is turned on. How does that affect the heating element, won’t it always have power?

[@billmace6554]

Where can I buy the stuff he makes

[@DemopVWgarage]

George, I'm building a powder coating oven and using 4x 2400w elements with two 100amp relays and a linkbird PID (240V) and the linkbird timer Not sure how to wire up the two relays and the two units? Cheers Nick.

[@mosesmcrae]

Can this ITC106VH be used to control a boil? I’ve seen other brands that allow control by percentage of output. Thanks

[@scubasky]

My mind says with that white leg coming off the switch going right to the plug once you flip the switch the element will try to use anyone that touches the still or the water in the still as a ground back to neutral. How is that not what happens?

[@BarleyandHopsBrewing]

Electricity needs a complete path. The element is not energized with one side on. Once the other side is on it is energized and the current flows through the element only.

[@scubasky]

Barley and Hops Brewing thanks again George you are a Godsend to those of us starting out!

[@BarleyandHopsBrewing]

@@scubasky That is what we are here for. Hopefully it explains the issue you brought up. Don't be afraid to ask. It is an obvious conclusion when you look at it at first.

[@TimDonk]

First of all, I've learned a ton from this video so far, but I'm going to need advice on running 2 4500 w/240v elements off of a single PID. Treating the 2 as one?

[@littleblacklab1]

Mr. Duncan, if you were to put a fuse in your controller, where would you install it?

[@TheOldKid]

Good morning Mr George. Most of us know dc power as red hot black negative so I was thrown off when I saw several references to blue being the hot on the thermal probe. I noticed you used conventional connection. If you ever had a problem hooking it up conventional you wouldn't be doing it so ill be pulling my pid back out to swap wires again. Do you know anything about blue being used as the hot wire?

[@lukeantrim11]

How do you ground the Rocker switch?

[@kin90591]

Hello thank you for your wonderful video and i have a question for you Now i am developing a food drying machine it is a vacuum drying oven. my design is to use a straight heating rod in the left, right and at the back of the oven. I used 4 heating rod for each side. hence i have a total of 12 heating rod and since i am connecting two rods together at one end i can consider them as 6 pair of heating rod. Now i wanted to connect the 6 wire at the other end with on PID temperature controller. Can i do that? can i use a connecter to reduce the number of wire in to a single wire using a connector? what is your suggestion.

[@Me-ob5qc]

I hope you or someone reads this and can give me some advice. I have mine wired exactly like this and my outlet reads 240v at all times. Switch on or off doesn’t matter. The pid is only on when the switch is on. What have I done wrong?

[@crabjoe]

Based on the wiring, if the switch is on, even if the PID is off, it's going to be pushing 120v to one lug of the socket. Based on that, I say never plug in your element, unless you've got liquid in the boiler. Because you'll end up giving the element 120V! If I'm wrong, please correct me.

[@elmagicocustoms]

In the video you mentioned that building a 240v controller with a 120v recep was in another video. Would you be able to point me in the right direction to that video? Thanks!!

[@coachetown]

I’ve been sorting through how to do this with a pwm at 220v. Is the only difference that no ssr and no temp probe?

[@Azbozaky]

I need your help to control a 5500w heating element and be able to reduce its strength to 50-75%. Thank you !

[@kevinhoag4235]

Thanks for the information excellent video!!!!!!

[@Blackoakx2222]

With running one 120V leg to the right side (white wire) of the outlet, doesn't that mean when the switch below is turned on you will have a constant 120v running to the switch, and therefore the element, essentially running it at half power while the switch is on?

[@tomchristensen2914]

What is better scr or pid controller?

[@robbacon9969]

Won’t there be a constant 120 volts going to the element? From the switch

[@BarleyandHopsBrewing]

You need both legs of the flow in order for power to run through the system.

[@waynewaggoner3513]

Will this 20 amp work on a 5500 watt heater element

[@flounder009]

Great series of videos on the pid controller build and set up. Information is invaluable. I do have a question. My build will have 2 3500 watt elements can i run both elements in parallel with one 40a relay?

[@philippierce4742]

I have a 240v 50 amp plug in my basement that I occasionally use for my stove, can I use this plug for my 240v pid?

[@philippierce4742]

Can I just replace my 50 amp breaker with a 30 amp breaker?

[@williamguthrie3972]

George how did you wire the USB on the end of the fan

[@tylerfaris150]

What if you do not use the fan?

[@strhunter666]

if the switch was on and the pid was off, would you not still have 120v at the plug?

[@Stewbphoto]

Hey George I am missing how you wired the fan and the pid with the USB plug. Can you please explain?

[@natejordan360]

The fan and USB plug are a different 120 circuit that you would have to plug in from my understanding. I might be wrong.

[@wojciechjurczyk9927]

Hello George! I hope you can help me. Can I add some water to final liquid (after fermentation but before destiling) if I worry about burn it out the heater in conteinar. I got 50 litres of capacity of my container but a got small amount of my liquid about 15 litres. I m worry that durrning the process of destiling the heater will go above the liquid

[@rexmorgan72]

I am not George, but you can absolutely add water to your mash or wash before distillation. It will not negatively affect the process at all.

[@wojciechjurczyk9927]

Thanks for your answer👍 I did set two mash one from orange second from apples but when I did it I thought I will buy a simple pot still destiler with 15 litres of capacity. But I was reading and watching about whole process and decide to buy bigger one and with the column. Happy destiling

[@BarleyandHopsBrewing]

Excellent answer

[@gururebel7403]

Mrng sir I buy a REX-C100FK02-M*AN pid controller its output type is RELAY in the manual it shows RELAY CONTACT OUTPUT. can I replace RELAY CONTACT OUTPUT with Solid state relay

[@GrumpasHauling]

Can you use the dryer outlet To get your 220

[@macEboy]

Yes you can

[@fourdeadinohio8303]

dan boatman ... the outlet/reciprocals are different. if you're into wiring you could run a side box off your dryer for 240 BUT would not suggest it. for safety you really need to go thru a breaker on that line. AND dryers are 30 amp.

[@Scattered-squirrel-projects]

Hello George I was wanting to know if you had a good recipe so I can make my own Turbo yeast ?

[@brentnorman464]

Please check with an electrician regarding your statement that the two hot leads are out of phase by 180 degrees. I believe they is only a single phase.

[@OuchesVonDoom]

Hey George @Barley and Hops Brewing are you going to make a video with that Chinese Alembic still hooked up to a PID? I'd love to see if you can dial that in. Thanks George for all the videos I'm also wondering if you were a teacher in a past life.

[@scubasky]

Ouches Von Doom I would also like to see that, I bought the Chinese still off amazon and am about to put a 1650 watt element in it as I don’t have a 220 to use.

[@LeonGarcia31]

Does the amps on the switch need to be the same amount than the amps the heating element uses? or can it be less? because the ssr is working like a switch and the rest of the components use a lot less than 20 amps

[@BarleyandHopsBrewing]

I use a low amp switch since I am switching the PID and not the element. The SSR controls the element.

[@LeonGarcia31]

@@BarleyandHopsBrewing Thank you, that solves my issues. I really like your videos you explain and simplify everything very well. Thanks again for answering my question

[@KWall601]

To reclarify this. Your switch should NEVER be rated at a lower amperage than the circuit breaker that protects it. Yes the PID only draws minimal amperage under normal circumstances, but all circuits should be designed with the worst case scenario in mind. Never put anything in the circuit that is rated lower than the circuit breaker. If your breaker is 20A then your switches, wires, elements, etc should be rated for 20A or more.

[@88ezkill]

Hello George I would like to run a 40 feet 240 line . Will10 gauge wire be good enough for this. It will be for a air compressor that runs 240v/15.0a/60hz/1ph. 3.7hp peeks at 6 hp

[@SmokedMulletMaster]

40' from your panel - you should be fine.

[@tedterry5030]

can you use a 20 lb bbq tank for a still

[@HistorySticksAround]

thank you that was very clear.

[@belczyk]

Thank you for sharing, always love your videos. Can you controller three different heating elements from one box, if so how?

[@BarleyandHopsBrewing]

No. That would overload the controller.

[@belczyk]

@@BarleyandHopsBrewing OK thanks

[@bobtheelectrician6692]

A conventional set-up like a domestic water heater has separate thermostats for the upper and lower element. The goal is to smoothly achieve a relatively even temperature at all levels in the tank. Of course, we won't have cold water rushing in as the hotter part of our liquid turns to steam.

[@belczyk]

Bob The Electrician thanks for the help this would would be a herms system with three different pots. Hot water/mash/brew for making beer. Only two pots will be used at one time.

[@marccrawford2764]

Is there any option for use that only have 110v at our disposal? Other than my dryer and water heater I dont have access to 220.

[@BarleyandHopsBrewing]

Yes Another video is on he way

[@KWall601]

18AWG is only rated for 7 amps. In the case of a fault/short your 18 gauge will burn up before your 20amp circuit breaker trips.

[@BarleyandHopsBrewing]

I only use this gauge for low current portions of the controller. The element and SSR are matched with either 12 or 10 gauge.

[@KWall601]

@@BarleyandHopsBrewing Mr. George I understand that the PID draws low amperage under normal conditions, but if something were to go wrong with the controller causing a short, then your wires will burn up long before your breaker trips.

[@KWall601]

@@BarleyandHopsBrewing Also, I'd like to say after only watching a few of your videos I'm a huge fan. Keep up the good work.

[@harleybooth3006]

Nice how much for everything to build this guy ?

[@Thumbsup768]

Very informative

[@kevinkozisek3903]

I'm actually doing the same thing as the video came out.

[@tomroper3421]

While our man is absent who do we contact with a guestion?

[@fleshwelder82]

U are the best

[@cliftonnaderhoff5010]

Dammmmmm it George your all right.

[@cliftonnaderhoff5010]

If I disrespected you George I apologize unless damn it was a bad word

[@chrishayden3854]

George, you continue to amaze me with your knowledge. What did you do for a living before this? I'm guessing electrical engineer. This is great info but I'm running my still by guess and by golly. I have three electrical heat sources and shut the first two off after the still starts producing leaving a single 220V hot plate at the bottom to run on. I found internal heaters tend to produce a lower ABV throughout the run while heating from the bottom produces higher. Not completely sure why but it works better with heat say the bottom. I'm wondering if a pid would give me better heat control, sounds like yes but maybe not that big an improvement since I'm not leaving the thing to run on its own. I gauge the speed by output. Am I all wet or just a bit old fashioned?

[@glenbaker5311]

Love these videos,,just started a few weeks ago,, has anyone ran any mildly slightly stale beer, my buddy had about 4 1/2 gallon left after his retirement party ,I guess having that much left prove that he needs to retire anyway, was wondering if anyone has ever ran any thanks for the info,keep the info flowing,, Thxs again.,gb

[@1MIC2GO]

You might ask your friend what the abv of the beer is to figure out your potential. Also, I just learnt that if it's hopped, those hop oils may transfer during distillation and could affect flavoring.

[@glenbaker5311]

@@1MIC2GO Thxs for the info, gb

[@morningstarsci]

@@1MIC2GO Yeah, unfortunately, oils can steam distill and you end up with it in the distillate. That can be a good or bad thing if its what you want.

[@Levon9404]

You did everything just fine except, your 240 V wires should have been both block, you may create confusion among the people the ones will try first time, because 110 neutral is white.

[@coreyblackburn9289]

Actually, the way he done it is just fine and to code. I can't see where there should be any confusion at all.

[@paulsons4287]

do this with 120 for us stoke victims lol

[@w1nterk643]

even more adverts

[@w1nterk643]

omg more adverts

[@w1nterk643]

more adverts

[@MrFutu8]

Батя, слишком сложно. Все намного проще.