BUILDING A 240 VOLT 20 AMP PID CONTROLLER STEP BY STEP PART 3

[@troylefevre1828]

Even though I’ve watched these controller builds multiple times, I still learn just a little bit more.the downside for me is, every time I learn something new I spend more money upgrading. Plus I just enjoy watching how you explain the process. Thanks George!

[@jarexxsuvexx8212]

🤗Mr George gotta be da coolest guy on da planet. I am beyond appreaciative of the time he invested to make this lecturing content. His personality and energy make this so easy to watch and absorb. God bless and thank u.🙏🏾

[@jrcicirello]

Robert, I want to thank you for your advice and direction for my DIY PID build. It is working just like you said it would here and on the phone. You are a special person to want to help others in their DIY electrical projects. Thanks again.

[@BarleyandHopsBrewing]

Glad to help

[@TiBougnat2]

Merci George ! Thanks to this one I got my PID controller set up on my knife hoven. And I now know more on PID Controller electric process. Thanks !

[@mikegrimaldi5844]

I’m a mechanical guy and am always interested in electronics. Years ago I hooked up a current sensor in my wood shop monitoring any machine that could be on to automatically turn on the dust collector. The saw was 240v and my other equipment was 120v. I double looped the saw line through the current sensor so I could somewhat equalize the turn on threshold for any machine. Worked like a charm. Well this was over 20 yrs ago and your video series inspired me to get back into creating solutions. Thanks George!

[@speedbuggie]

Just got my PID finished and it all because of you. Thanks George! Your Awesome.

[@nutball7537]

Thank you for this step-by-step discussion of the circuit. This is the best explanation I've seen. I struggle so bad with understanding electronic circuits - you're approach is so straightforward that it actually makes sense to me and I feel like I can tackle the controller project I have planned.

[@BarleyandHopsBrewing]

You can do it!

[@johnnytoy5487]

Which transformer is George using for the cooling fan 🤔

[@johnnytoy5487]

@@BarleyandHopsBrewing which transformer is George using for the cooling fan 🤔

[@nutball7537]

@@johnnytoy5487 It's just a standard plug-in charger (typically 5V) for a phone or other small elec. device - the little rectangular wall wart that plugs into a standard household outlet (110V) and has a female USB port for the charging cord. You'll have to connect the fan wires to a USB male end so it can plug into the wall wart female port.

[@mikehoward1724]

George, I rarely comment on videos..or subscribe for that matter but distilling has been a hobby of mine for over 5 years and I wish you were around 5 years ago! As a high school shop teacher of 13yrs I can honestly say you are a great teacher. I have always been intimidated by the thought of making the jump from propane to electricity to heat my boiler. Since discovering your channel I have decided...with great confidence to build myself a PID and go for it. Thank you sir! Mike

[@nickleezer2129]

This is by far the best video I have found on this topic and exactly what I have been searching for. Thank you very much.

[@BarleyandHopsBrewing]

Glad it was helpful!

[@scottjamable]

Thank you George! I couldn't have done it without you!

[@TheDuffman6582]

Thank you for this video, this is the most comprehensive video on wiring that I’ve seen.

[@ckvasnic1]

George. Thank you so much for the very clear video series. Thank you for sharing your time and talent. All the best. Chuck

[@kevinhoag4235]

Just wanted to say thanks built my first PID turned out great thanks to a great Teacher!!!!

[@BarleyandHopsBrewing]

Great job!

[@KYLE-jm6tr]

Thank you so much for taking the time to educate us on home distilling. I love your videos. Thank you for showing me the ropes. Look forward to a new video or a farewell sign off

[@AlansMovies1]

A great series of videos, I am not and electric/electronics guy, so I may be talking out my ... ,but just wonder why the switch wasn't on the AC input side, this would then isolate all of the components, but as you said there are different ways to achieve the same ends. Please think about doing some more videos, you are appreciated.

[@DerikStillPasinthrough]

George, I initially built my PID for 120v with a 2kw element. Well, after making a couple of modification to my kettle order, I needed to upgrade to 240v and a 3500 kw element. I took the box I had already constructed and wired it with 12ga 4 wire on a dedicated circuit. I put in a 20 amp 240 outlet but split the other leg of the 240 to power the PID, water pump outlet and cooling fan, since that was already established on the 120v plan. Powered it all up today and bingo, works like a charm. I can't thank you enough for the information you are willing to share. Kudos to you and thank you for your military service. 87-91 Panama and Desert Storm Air Force here. Cheers

[@z135210]

Truly a masterpiece. Thanks George - building my PID soon.

[@timmer9lives]

Love that trick about the back of the hand. I use a multimeter and am pretty versed with electricity… 2 and 3 phase. But I forgot all about the “back of your hand. “ Great video and thank you for posting !

[@blakemichaelson2751]

Any chance you could describe (or provide a link) the transformer you use for the fan? In what manner and in which location are you attaching the thermocouple to the still - I'm presuming where the thermometer would normally be in the reflux condenser? Excellent work, thank you!

[@toddmayta7615]

plug in USB phone charger like comes with cell phones is all it is.

[@taylormoore4991]

You are a great instructor! God bless! God is good! Thank you so much!

[@simongundybp]

I need help with the fan. Not enough info on hooking it up. Transformer?? I also would like to see the hook up for the k connector for the thermal couple.

[@merridymiller562]

Hi George, I had to replace my Mypin controller for it would not energize the two relays, I had the relays burn up for I wired both up from one lag , my bust. But I was watching you talking about the elements and the amps, I have two 4500w elements, to high amp drew 37a , my contacts only 30a , if I wasn’t watching you I would have started it up and could have nest something else up. I thank you for your support in my hobby, Dale

[@Harveje]

Thanks for all the vids....I plan to build a PID controller for my wifes pottery kiln, 6 element, 240v 10.3kw (o yeah) using a pid with 3 ssr's using your methodology.. If you want to expand there's a ton of old mechanical controlled kilns out there that can benefit.. Thanks again

[@jbyrd3304]

can you take a picture of how you wired the toggle switches to your Dremel's? I make knives as a hobby and have a few my self and would love to do mine that way. Thank You!

[@stevepeterson9819]

Thank you very much for this episode it answered the questions that I had asked you in a previous comment

[@Rickgrant1984]

Thank you!!! You were very specific, and I get it! It seems to be the absolute most efficient way possible costly, and altogether. I appreciate your time to provide this video. I used this information to build a panel for mushroom substrate pasteurization. You helped me save lots of money being that in a fresh business, and I can’t thank you enough.. well done my friend!!

[@BarleyandHopsBrewing]

Glad it was helpful!

[@danssv8]

Great explanation George

[@danssv8]

You 100% correct that black is in most cases on the left , even loudspeakers and power points sockets.

[@jimmynoname336]

Hi George thank you for your excellent videos! Where can I buy those enclosure boxes.

[@lukeantrim11]

Hey George - Love your Videos. Do you have an video for Alarm? 3:27 of Video, you talk about an Alarm. Thanks!

[@caseycapps7573]

Great info. I have my head around this, however I need to put a timer into this controller. I see where it takes the place of the switch, however do I need a 240v timer, or can I use a 120v timer. I think there are two places in the circuit, where the switch is, or between SSR and outlet. Need some advice on what type of timer and where/how to put it in the circuit. Thank you

[@bradnichol6024]

I see that you are using an aviation connector for your thermocouple input. From what I have read online, I was under the impression that you cannot do that, due to the pins in the connector not being the same type of metal as the thermocouple wiring and by doing so, it would produce wildly inaccurate readings at the pid controller. What are your thoughts on this? By the way, I am using a K type thermocouple.

[@aw738]

One half of your outlet is hot all the time. Check it with a multimeter. I've checked this on my welder outlet and you have 120 volts between one terminal and ground.

[@thedjdelphis]

Thanks for all the amazing videos George! I wanted to check in to see what the connections you used for the thermocouples are called. Been looking to build a control panel for my brewery for some time now and you've given me the confidence to do it, just can't find what that connection is called for the life of me.

[@johnnytoy5487]

Which transformer are you using for the cooling fan 🤔

[@kenthuntsingersr7501]

If you want to check for current , improperly, use a long blade of grass . Touch it to the wire then push closer until you feel a tingle or not. Happy Sparks.

[@medbbelgacem4519]

Please explain the operation and electrical network and the necessary connections with it for the temperature controller- model - ai208-4-rb10- thank you very much

[@davidbogan3573]

can you run 2 ssr relays off 1 pid controller i want to use 2 heater bands and just use 1 controller

[@michaelmenace6306]

Hello George, thanks for all your knowledge. Im about 80% done building my pid controller. I forgot to order my fan as it wasnt in the parts list. Up9n reviewing the videos meticulously, me andy electrian friend also realized there is a transformer before the fan. Could you recommend a fan, and if it doesn't come with the transformer, could you also recommend that as well. Thanks Mike F

[@benjamindlc9426]

George... great videos and thank you for making these. I am running into the same issue. Any help would be much appreciated.

[@michaelmenace6306]

@@benjamindlc9426 he has another video i came across after i asked that Explains it. Use a 12v dc fan, and you need a 120v to 12v transformer

[@michaelmenace6306]

The video is "piece by piece iece description and parts list"

[@michaelmenace6306]

So many videos. So much information. This man is amazing.

[@Foxxxxx96]

You're amazing! Can you please please guide me on how to do the same thing with 30 amps. Do i just replace it with a 40a solid state module? (first time building something)

[@Artbyrodwatson]

Thank you for the video. It was very helpful. I used it to control the heat in a DIY powdercoating oven. It worked great. However, I do have one question. My oven worked great for many many jobs. Didn't touch it all winter, but this morning went out to powdercoat a couple small pieces. I plugged in the oven as always, but found no power at the PID. It would not illuminate. Now my question. Is this unit toast or is there a way to reset it?

[@Mpmorgan7487]

I built it, checked and double checked it was all good. Plugged it in and the switch was glowing red, turned it on AND POP! My main breaker tripped, and the switch was charred. Could this be a result of using 18g wire from the receptacle to the switch? I cannot figure out why it shorted out.

[@NewsThatMatterUsa]

I need this exact set up but it’s for an oven my element does not plug into a Receptacle, how do I over come this ?

[@wallacefrey6247]

I have a bunch of 480v elements that I got in the bottom of a box I won at an auction. My question is,can I use them wired to 220v?

[@HansOlo0]

Actually, your relay, just like any other relay, can only be either on or off, so your heating element operating at 100% or at 0% capacity. There's just physically no other way for this to go down. Now, your PID controller is switching the relay on and off at whatever frequency it's operating on while adjusting the ratio between the durations of 'ons' and 'offs' to give you some average power output, but it's not like you'll set it to say 50% max and your heating element normally drawing say 10 amps will start drawing 5 amps. it will still be 10 amps, only that it will be switched on 50% of the time. This is something to be taken into consideration ;)

[@carlosnin8469]

What transformer? I missed that.

[@michaelziegler676]

Hi, using your wiring method to run a lead casting pot. The Chinese Rex c100 knockoff doesn't seem to provide enough power to bring my pot up to temp, or maintain it. I would prefer to have something that is just an 'on-off ' that would bring the pot up to temp within 30min or so, and then maintain a temp between a range (375c to 335c) using a full on and then full off method. Any suggestions?

[@peterw8911]

Great videos. Do you know if can hook up 3 SSRs to the one controller? And can you just daisy chain one of the hot wires across all three SSRs and output directly to a heating element without a plug? Like an oven element (looking to build a powder coating oven so I need three elements)

[@allenkwarta7102]

Thank you so much for all your videos. You are meticulous on the finer points of operation and theory. The signal from the thermocouple is varying. Is the signal to the heater from the controller on - off or varying One disadvantage of on - off, as you know, is the sudden "on" signal will give full amperage immediately rather than the varying signal which will adjust the amperage to the heater either slightly more or less. If I missed this in your explanations I apologize and sorry to waste your time.

[@rickmooreEz-2chew-BBQ]

Very well explained...thanks

[@47vulcanride]

Thanks for your great vids! I have a question; I want to make one of these to control a powder coat oven using a range element (220v 3100a) I wasn't going to use a receptical but rather wire directly to the element itself since this pid is dedicated for the oven only. Wouldn't this wiring leave one 120v hot to one side of my element hot (and heating) just by having the unit plugged into the wall regardless of whether on not my switch on the panel was on? Thanks a lot. Tim

[@BarleyandHopsBrewing]

No, the hot side is dormant until the opposing hot side is active.

[@mofosheee01]

I had the same concern and was about to make a similar post as follows.......... ( Hi George. Thanks for the great videos! One question please.............Please refer to the schematic @ the 19:09 time frame of the vid. Looks to me like one leg (white wire) of the 220V receptacle is "hot" all the time and the only switching/controlliing occurring is on the black lead from the SSR. Am I incorrect? Wouldn't two SSR's eliminate the issue? Thank you)

[@tonyannett359]

@@mofosheee01 I just posted about the same question. Except I have ran 3 test runs and yes the white on mine is still hot all the time. PID and SSR turned off at the correct temp but the water kept heating up on the white wire.

[@les479500]

Hi George. Can you provide info on the volt meter, type etc. Les

[@James-ec7qx]

Really excellent explanation Thank You!

[@dougnichol205]

Maybe it's not an issue, but there's going to always be a 120v hot (white) -to- ground fed to one side of the plug and the element when plugged in, and one would not be safe fiddling with an element with exposed terminals...a 20A wall switch having a built-in indicator LED on that box would be easy to add giving one an extra safety.

[@ssantac]

Isn't the transformer for the fan getting 240v? If it's a phone charger like other videos won't it burn up?

[@carlporter4816]

I am building a powder coat oven. What would be the best pid for me

[@shinigami1265]

I am making a big oven for powder coating. The receptacle would be a bar then?

[@terrysellers9809]

How much is your pid control thanks Terry

[@saltythefisherman9545]

How do you connect the two wires to the transformer from the switch george?

[@tonyannett359]

George, my 120v leg of the 240V, not going through the SSR and PID, stays on all the time. The PID and SSR seem to be working like it supposed to and turning off at the correct temp, but the element is still running on the other leg.

[@matthewbecker1804]

You need some type of switch on the non SSR controlled 120v hot line. i

[@notrealgerard]

can you pull the 12v current from the PID that turns on the Relay to turn on the fan? Then the fan would come on when the relay comes on?

[@chrisgirardi1702]

Ok I almost have it all together :) I just can’t figure out how to connect fan to usb plug ?

[@chrisgirardi1702]

Update figured it out ...had to connect fan to usb plug and terminal connectors to the usb prongs

[@benjamindlc9426]

Can you provide a link to what parts you used?

[@allenkwarta7102]

Oops!! I just got Part 4. The question I just posed is now irrelevant. Sorry about that. Patience is not one of my finer points.

[@johnnytoy5487]

That transformer doesn't look like a phone charger. Does anyone know what George is using for the fan ?

[@byronwilson1722]

I built a PID controller as described in your videos, wired it for 120v and it worked fine. I then upgraded to a 250v element and rewired the controller for the same. The problem now is that the SSR has 120v at pin 2 all the time, even with the PID turned off. Do the relays fail this way?

[@mufassa1348]

Thank you so, George! all of your videos are so help full. had to watch this one about 10 times :-) just to make sure I did everything correctly. I noticed that the output on pins 6 and 18 is 13.6 volts dc.. Would there be any issues powering the fan off those pins?

[@danssv8]

Yes you can as the purpose of the fan is to cool the ssr relay and it only will get activated once the ssr gets its power from the pid , no need for a transformer if the voltage is about 12v.

[@mike64646]

you made a Process & Instrumentation control Diagram (P & ID) on the whiteboard for your PID Controller :)

[@yesenodf]

Isn’t the volt amp meter for single phase voltage. Not made for two hot inputs 180 deg out of phase. Plus there’s no ground or neutral to the meter. Could burn up.

[@BarleyandHopsBrewing]

240 volts is really single phase but 180 degrees opposed to each other. What runs through one wire is actually what runs through both (equally). If you try to measure both at the same time the amp meter will cancel out and read near zero. This is why we place the sensor on the single lead only. Three phase is another story but in our community almost everyone is on single phase. George

[@jean-pauldupuis8099]

How did you connect the fan to 220 volts?

[@TheDuffman6582]

So instead of a pid I’m going to use a potentiometer, I’m thinking I want the switch between the source and the SSR to isolate the power, it’s also a 30amp circuit as the element is 5500 watts. Does that sound correct? Thanks for your help

[@Hitbychance]

if you are using the power from your dryer plug for a 30a size circuit, can you just omit the neutral for this project?

[@beekeeper8474]

I feel like i would put the switch going to main feed into the plug. just feel safer knowing with switched off there would be no power going to the receptacle. Call me crazy. also if you use a 4 plug receptacle you can run both 120 and 240 elements off the same box as long are you wire the male 4 prong the right way.

[@bubbleguppy1086]

Your videos are amazing, I was curious to know here in Australia since our standard power it 240v 50Hz Would this still work?

[@BarleyandHopsBrewing]

Yes but you have a hot, neutral and ground wire just like our 120 volt circuits. wire it the same way.

[@bubbleguppy1086]

Thanks, I was thinking that would be the way. Appreciate your reply

[@paulwilliams8536]

Hi George here in the uk we have 230/240v 50 Hz , 3 wires live, neutral, and earth I assume it’s the same as Australia. Our plugs are rated or fused at 13 amps i.e. a electric kettle will have a 3kw element and plugs into the wall through a 13 amp plug, would a 13amp socket be sufficient in the PID ?

[@geoffvk3sq113]

Hi George, In all of Australia we have 240 volts AC as standard power to our houses. The power cables are labelled as positive and neutral (red and black, and green for earth) . Where do these connect on the PID (9 and 10); also 1 and 2 on the SSR. Look forward to hearing from you as soon as possible. Please advise. Regards: Geoff

[@BarleyandHopsBrewing]

Your electric works exactly like our 120 volts with a hot and neutral leg plus the ground (earth). Wire it exactly like I do the 120 volt version. The only difference is the voltage but the flow and all else is the same

[@geoffvk3sq113]

@@BarleyandHopsBrewing Hello George, thanks for the quick reply. That advice you detailed was the key information I needed for wiring up the PID and SSR. I can now continue with confidence with this project. Thank you. Regards Geoff

[@Trevor.Morrice]

For some reason my outlet is powered at all times... I've gone through 2 SSRs now. I even unplug the DC side and its still giving 240v through it!

[@nealhannath1536]

Trevor - Did you ever work this out? I'm having the same problem but am using a 240v 30amp (4 wire curcuit and plug).

[@Trevor.Morrice]

@@nealhannath1536 yes apparently it's normal for SSRs to leak voltage...kinda scary but there is an "out" light that should be off that is a good way to test

[@nealhannath1536]

@@Trevor.Morrice Thanks Trevor for the response. Maybe I'm seeing a different issue , my socket seems to be on all the time regardless of whether of the unit is powered on or not making so that I have no control of power - I may as well just plug it straight in the wall. I am running off my range's 240V connection which a 4 pronged 2 x hot, 1 neutral and 1 ground.

[@47vulcanride]

George I'm having a problem with my Ink-bird controller ITC106-vh. I want to reset it to factory defaults. Can you tell me the procedure. I've tried picking 'r' in the OP setting and it won't work. Thanks

[@Anderson-HandForged]

hi my name is mark im wanting to build a heat treat oven to run at 240v what you did in this video would work for my application? i think it should work thanks just wanted a professinal opiion

[@qivarebil2149]

Your link to the PID on Amazon is broken.

[@qivarebil2149]

I would suggest that the fan goes on the underside. That way, You don't get as much dust into the box! 🤔

[@chrisgirardi1702]

Great video I think it may be beyond my skills though...do you sell these?

[@num1dan1965]

any advice for useing arduino in circuit to make it more precise

[@cneibert75]

What transformer did u use for the fan

[@johnnytoy5487]

I can't find any one that knows what transformer he is using. It doesn't look like a phone charger.

[@MikeJones-qo7vt]

How much for u to build it for us and just leave the wires for the heating element for us to connect and the thermostat wire

[@steveskouson9620]

"I love it when a plan comes together." I thought your name was George, not John "Hannibal." GREAT set of videos! steve

[@BarleyandHopsBrewing]

Good one!

[@davidbluthardt8976]

George, Will this controller on a 3500 watt element work well for a 13 gallon batch?

[@cneibert75]

What did u use for the thermocouple

[@michaellarrabee6262]

So can I build this and use 120v plugs and use it for 120v for now and upgrade to 240v later at another time?

[@brenle2426]

What is the type of TC you are using i need that style of connector. All that i see just have two wires with clips.

[@mBriggsy007]

The thermocouple is a "K" style. George uses an a 12 mm aviation style connector on the PID controller box (originally he used the more 'traditional' k style plug connectors) The connector you need to wire your TC up can be found here: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07V554X78 Just wire the red wire to pin 1 and the blue wire to pin 2. If you can't read the tiny pin indicators, hold the connector up facing you with the notch at 12 o'clock. Pin 1 is the upper left, and Pin 2 is the lower left. Hope this helps.

[@patrickmadison9554]

We can buy these from you?

[@TreadTalk247]

Can I order a prebuilt and presides PID box from you? I am building a cerakote oven out of a masterbuilt brand smoker cabinet and I’d rather buy a prebuilt PiD box from you than buying it from Amazon and not know who is building it and if it’s right! On Amazon a prebuilt PID is around $120, please let me know who to call and talk about placing an order. I appreciate your video and thoroughness! I look forward to hearing from you.

[@TheOldKid]

Hey George if you ran your wires to a heating element instead of a plug (220/240) would it make one wire on the element continuously hot/electrified trying to heat the element?

[@BarleyandHopsBrewing]

Not unless the other wire was connected.

[@TheOldKid]

@@BarleyandHopsBrewing ok thank you. Someone said the way I have my oven wired i would have a continuous hot on my element. The other side of the element runs to an ssr which of course takes orders from a pid. Thanks again

[@georgeduncan227]

@@TheOldKid I understand. If someone doesn't fully understand how electricity works it is easy to rationalize that the element is energized with one hot wire from a 240 circuit attached. It is the absence of the other hot wire that keeps it from energizing. When one hot wire has 120 volts flowing (potential) and the other one is not attached or connected the 120 volts has no where to go ( no complete path of flow) so it just sits there waiting on the completion of the circuit path. When the other one is attached or connected the 120 flows though that and at the same time the 120 volts from the second hot wire flow though the opposing wire. This is where we get 240 volts (adding them together). This happens since when one hot lead is high 120 volts, the opposing lead is low and vice versa (60 times a second which is the frequency; where the term hertz comes from). If you were to ground either end of the two leads 120 volt would flow. If you were to grab either lead you get shocked since you give it a path to flow. If you leave it alone the potential voltage just sits there waiting of a path to flow. Hope this helps George

[@TheOldKid]

@@georgeduncan227 i tried explaining that to him but he couldn't understand it. Thanks for your videos and all your help

[@shaunmarriott4118]

Hi does this same method work for the uk please

[@michaelkindle3391]

Why are you not adding a 20A fuse between your ssr power output and your load? This way your load is protected. Also, a fuse between your switch output and your pid power input. This way your pid, and ssr is protected in case of surge.

[@LukeBlizz]

Question: what keeps you from having 120 volts to the one terminal of your plug. If the heat element is plugged in and the box is plugged in, even though the switch is off, there will be half load to your element. Or am I missing something. Sorry not trying to be negative, just asking. Trying to learn something

[@matthewbecker1804]

no load, BC its not a complete circuit. It's the equivalent of plugging just the hot leg of a normal 120v plug without a neutral... device can't work without a return current path. its an open circuit but still has a mains voltage potential.

[@JerzyBoy973]

Does anyone know if it’s possible to limit the output to 90%??? My element is a little close to the maximum capacity of my 30 amp circuit.

[@Me-ob5qc]

I have mine wired exactly like this and my outlet reads 240v at all times. Switch on or off doesn’t matter. The electricity passes straight through the SSR like it’s not even there. I have tried two inkbird relays and have the same problem. Can anyone help?

[@3030rey]

I’m confused when you power up the switch with 220 then you send to hot wire to the Pid that’s mean you can install the pid with 220 and you don’t need the neutral?

[@BarleyandHopsBrewing]

240 volts with two hot legs creates its own neutral.

[@vincelejeune1100]

I under stand every thing except it looks to me you hooked up the trans former to 20/20. I don't doubt it works but, I'm not understanding how it doesn't burn it up !

[@ianzander]

You never explain the plug to the unit. That is one item you fast forward over at 21:40. I am assuming that is also a 240 plug? 10 gauge wire?

[@BarleyandHopsBrewing]

yes

[@hawknives]

Outstanding! Thank You, much!