Basecamp 20X Power Usage Test July 2021

[@UpintheAir.stream]

Wayne, I think you may be wrong about the need for your Battery Disconnect switch needing to be on for your converter to charge your onboard house batteries. Typicall the Airstream battery disconnect, just disconnects your DC Bus. You still have a couple of loads, propane detector for example. The Converter should charge the batteries anytime the Shore Power is plugged in. A way to test this would be to take the voltage of the house batteries directly without shore power, then take a voltage of the batteries with the shore power connected. The voltage should go up. Do this with the battery disconnect in the off position.

[@UpintheAir.stream]

Wayne your testing theory is very flawed. Not trying to be confrontational or critical. The amperage being drawn is not the amperage of the loads, but instead reflects the amperage being drawn from your converter. The converter is supply DC voltage to the system, which is based on the need of the battery charge need, based on voltage, bulk charge, float charge, etc. We sold our EU3000 and bought the more lighter and more portable EU3200i. You really do not need the Surge protecter with your generator, as the generator is a very reliable isolated power source.

[@schmoonkie]

Hello Wayne. Thanks for this helpful video. We're in the process of purchasing a 2022 Basecamp 20X with the solar option. Would you mind listing the parts needed to make the connection from your house 120V outlet to your Basecamp? I know about the heavy duty extension cord per your response to Bryon Keck. I also was able to locate the surge protector you used on Amazon. I'm just unclear on the other cables ( dog bones? ), etc. Thanks again.

[@WayneBogan]

Hi @Schmoonkie, here is the adapter I purchased for the drop cord connection to a 30amp. www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000BUU5YA/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

[@schmoonkie]

@@WayneBogan Just saw your reply Wayne. Thanks very much for the information.

[@BryonKeck]

>The goal was to determine what I could actually run on both the 110V outlet and a small generator comfortably. So with this information, would you run the AC off the 110V?

[@WayneBogan]

@Bryon, yes. I am now confident that I can run the lights and AC off a single 110V outlet when I'm home or at a location that has limited electrical capacity. I just need to ensure that I manage the power and not overload the drop cord by turning on too many items.

[@BryonKeck]

@@WayneBogan much appreciated…. So, a lot of sources say that if it overloads the 110, it’ll have “complications” . Do you know, does insufficient power stress the AC unit, or does it just blow the breaker?

[@WayneBogan]

@Bryon, I've read the same. I think the key is knowing 1) capacity at house breaker (is this 20amp or 15amp), 2) capacity of 20X breaker, and 3) capacity of extension cord. In my testing, the AC, refrigerator, and lights peaked at 1400 watts and ran ~1200 watts with AC on low. If you buy a normal extension cord from Lowes/Home Depot, the extension cord may only be able to handle 10amps/125v/1250 watts which would barely run everything. If you buy a heavy duty extension cord from Lowes/Home Depot, the extension cord may be able to handle up to 15amps/125v/1875 watts which provides a larger margin of safety when running your AC, refrigerator, and lights. The heavy duty cord could even handle the AC on high where it hit around ~1350 watts for me. I personally feel comfortable with my heavy duty extension cord running the AC without any problems because I should be well within specs. I'm not an electrician but the specs seem to work out. Hope this is helpful.