Making An Expanding Arbor

[@j.pierce8786]

What did you choose for the angle on the wedge and mating arbor internal angle?

[@BasementMachinist]

I used a 60 degree included angle. It was just what my compound was set to when I did that operation. You don't want an angle too shallow or the wedge will have a hard time spreading the jaws. The steeper the angle the less clamping force the screw will need to spread the jaws open. However, too steep an angle and the wedge will get jammed inside the tool and you'll have a hard time getting it out. I think an angle anywhere between 50 and 65 degrees would suffice. Now that I think about it, I should have mentioned this in the video. Oh well, I'll try and remember the small details in the future.

[@j.pierce8786]

Well made video. I like that you have no silly music. You made an Instructive and efficient lesson with clear audio and video. Like most other KZbin helpful instructors, IMO, you can make your video even better by showing us the finished project at the very beginning to make it easier to understand the objective of the project. This is a basic principle of teaching. You beginning explanation is pretty good, but too many of these instructional videos on KZbin are making "mystery projects" as if to keep the goal a secret until the very end. Otherwise, great job and thanks. I use various stub mandrels and arbors frequently. Thanks for a good suggestion for another version.

[@BasementMachinist]

Thank you for the kind words. I'm enjoying making videos and I'm happy that they could help. I'm not a huge fan of the music either. I do like your idea of showing the finished product at the beginning of the videos, I believe I will start doing that with the next video.

[@craig2963]

I am a little late to this video...But if anybody watches this and is going to make one for them selves. I would suggest drilling a hole at the end of each of the slots that are cut. This does 2 things, It helps prevent a crack from forming and making your arbor go in the scrap bin. And it also makes it require less force to get the arbor to spread open to clamp the part.

[@cdrive5757]

Very surprising that BM didn't reply to this. In the world of basic shop practices it's considered *SOP!* Wakodahatchee Chris

[@stormtaker63]

Great idea, going to have to make me a set of these for my most common sizes.

[@donaldnaymon3270]

Great job. Works nice. Thank you for sharing.

[@kentuckytrapper780]

Job very well done, great video.

[@TheBergdahljustin]

Useful and easy to make project. Thanks for the idea!

[@MR6.5]

Great video, gives me a way to hold the oddball work, love it!

[@WrenagadeWorkshop]

Just found your channel via suggestions and had to sub for awesome content :) I bought my first lathe this year, and got my first mill only a few months back. Been such a long term dream of mine to set up a custom lightsaber workshop, not fully looled up yet and tge mill need a little TLC but it's so nearly there... Keep em coming buddy, and thanks for sharing :D

[@BasementMachinist]

Thank You. Content has been lacking on my channel for the past few weeks. Haven't had much time to devote to it, super busy. I'm hoping to get back to it and finish up Elmer's Engine #2 in two weeks when my schedule eases up a bit. I also have a bunch of other projects lined up. Good luck with mill rebuild and workshop.

[@dalegriggs5392]

Just happened onto your channel. I like your no nonsense approach. I am in the process of making an internal mandrel to mount an indexer on my lathe. I am also using the cone/expander approach with a long bolt to pull the cone into the bore taper only using brass for the cone. You think 60 degree taper is best? I haven’t done that yet because I was unsure about how much taper was needed for smooth operation an easy release. The last thing I need is to get the thing jammed inside my headstock spindle. One note: Military background? Reason I asked is you referred to the OD of your part as the “perimeter”. It’s usually only us old lifers that use that terminology. Lol Dale Griggs

[@BasementMachinist]

Thank You! I can't say that 60 degrees is the best but it does work well in my case. I do believe an angle between 50 and 65 degrees is your best bet. Yes, I am former military. Served in the Marine Corps.

[@mahocnc]

That's one way....for me..turning O.D. chamfer then drill & part off then using soft jaws hold on O.D. to finish rest or machine O.D. drill and finish both bore then part off..no arbor needed.

[@BasementMachinist]

+Konely King That is one way. However, I can't use machinable soft jaws with my chuck. So arbor it is.

[@somebodyelse6673]

Arbors seem like a more re-usable tool than soft jaws.

[@CMAenergy]

I would think the taper on the insert would not have to be that exact as you made it, since the moment you start to apply pressure to the arbor, it will expand and the taper angle will change. And you could have used an end mill to slot those slots,

[@BasementMachinist]

You're right. It doesn't need to be that accurate. As for the slots, at the time I didn't have an end mill suitable for the operation. A slitting saw would have been ideal.

[@MrKidkiller159]

the little southbend great machine.

[@BasementMachinist]

MrKidkiller159 It is indeed.

[@somebodyelse6673]

Seeing the carpet of chips under & around your motor reminded me of the nightmare cleanout I had to do on the motor of my bench lathe when I got it. You're not worried about the one chip that gets in there and slices the enamel on some winding wires?

[@BasementMachinist]

Chips in the motor is something I check for on a regular basis. Chips do make their way in from time to time, but it hasn't been a huge issue. I have a lot of clean up to do after this current project. Cast iron makes a huge mess.

[@leeknivek]

@@BasementMachinist wait you guys clean your lathes

[@orlandopizzio5647]

Nice work...! Greetings from Argentina.

[@BasementMachinist]

Orlando Pizzio Thanks for watching!

[@MaturePatriot]

Nice work.

[@anthonycash4609]

I was noticing in your video your carriage stop and dial indicator holder. Did you build that off of your lathe or did you use a milling machine. Also what size bit did it take to get the V grove perfect or did you use a small bit and take several passes. And if you have a video of it being made I would like to see it. Also I am a new subscriber to your channel. I find the content and easy to follow instructions very good.

[@BasementMachinist]

+Anthony Thank you for the sub. That dial holder is one I made 5 or 6 years ago when I first got the lathe. I did use a mill (when I had access to one) to make it but it can be made using the lathe with a milling attachment. The v groove was made with a standard end mill and the part was held in the vise at a 45 degree angle. I plan on eventually making a video on it, but if you would like to make one yourself I made up a set of drawings. Shoot me a message with your email and I'll send it over.

[@jimhunt5259]

What is the angle of the taper?

[@BasementMachinist]

I used a 60 degree included angle. It was just what my compound was set to when I did that operation. You don't want an angle too shallow or the wedge will have a hard time spreading the jaws. The steeper the angle the less clamping force the screw will need to spread the jaws open. However, too steep an angle and the wedge will get jammed inside the tool and you'll have a hard time getting it out. I think an angle anywhere between 50 and 65 degrees would suffice.

[@jimhunt5259]

Thanks very helpful

[@GarryFullerSr]

Very Nice. Going to check out your channel.

[@Suttmike1]

Great video

[@BasementMachinist]

+Suttmike1 Thank you

[@somebodyelse6673]

Don't you have issues with chips getting sucked into your motor vents there? Looks like a good place for a shield or some screen at least!

[@BasementMachinist]

+somebody else It isn't as bad as you might think, but chips do get in there. I clean it out every now and then. The lathe came with the original 3 phase motor and this motor was a free be just to get it going. Eventually, I'll upgrade to a sealed motor.

[@philipeby5418]

Do you still have the 3 phase motor? I'd be interested in it.

[@dougguynn2622]

great, enjoyed

[@donaldwarner6988]

use a1/8npt taper pipe plug for your ex pander. less maching

[@somebodyelse6673]

I did exactly that to hold some bronze bushings I needed to shave down. It was the first time I had to cut tapered threads, took two tries. Worked fine though!

[@joeshmoe5935]

why not just drill, taper and thread the arbor body for a bigger size counter head screw and one less part to make. Have the screw do the expanding.

[@BasementMachinist]

That is an excellent idea. I was trying to use material that I had on hand. I don't think any of the screws that I had would have big enough.

[@joeshmoe5935]

Trust me ACE is your friend in that respect. Anyways Joe Pieczynski has that very exact concept elaborated on YOutube.

[@BasementMachinist]

I agree. Ace is tour friend, except when you live as far outside of town as I do. Driving into town for a single screw for a project I'm doing on a whim, just isn't practical.

[@joeshmoe5935]

I am about to enter that boat myself. Tractor supply isn't any where near as good as ACE in that respect.

[@aceroadholder2185]

Good video. A caution though. If you are trying to measure a dimension closely, remember that the digital caliper you are using is incapable of resolving anything closer than 0.0005" of the actual dimension... a downside of any digital device is that it's all or nothing on the last digit displayed. Generally anything that has to be held closer than +/- 0.005 should have the final dimension checked with a micrometer, not a caliper. Yes, you can with care get a good measurement with a caliper... sometimes it may be the only way you can measure a dimension... but keep in mind the caliper's limitations.

[@BasementMachinist]

Thank You. I know the limitations with using a caliper. 90% of what I do does not require a high degree of accuracy, anything +/- .001 is good enough. The other 10%, I'm still limited, as I only have a 1" micrometer. I have yet to have a reason to get a larger one, but I will when the need arises.

[@aceroadholder2185]

Agreed. If you know the limitations of your tools and equipment, then you can do work-arounds to reach your goal. For instance, I have zeroed my digital calipers on gage blocks. Then I know that the measurement I make with the calipers is within +/-0.00025" of the gage block stack. Be sure to go with your wife when she goes to estate sales. It may take a while, but you'll finally run into one where some old geezer like me has kicked the bucket and left a basement full of machinist tools that nobody but you will have any idea what they are. You'll find the micrometers you need. Buy everything! You'll kick yourself later if you don't!

[@hilltopmachineworks2131]

Just found your channel and subbed.

[@BasementMachinist]

Thank You, I hope to have new content up soon.

[@hilltopmachineworks2131]

I just got my channel going a few months ago. Take a look when you get a chance. :)

[@42rexx]

The proper terminology is "Outside Diameter" or "O.D", not "perimeter".

[@BasementMachinist]

Yes, it is.

[@weldinggadget9562]

gj

[@philipeby5418]

Nice work. I would recommend trimming some of the redundant footage. It takes to long to watch a bunch of 25 min videos. I bet you could trim 5 maybe 10 minutes and not lose any meaningful content. Not trying to be a jerk. Just thought it might be helpful.

[@BasementMachinist]

Thank You, I do try and cut some of it now now. Haven't had time to make any new content lately. Extremely busy, I hope to get back to it soon.

[@BillyDocWalker]

If you call yourself a Machinest , I am a brain Surgeon

[@BasementMachinist]

Machineist I am...expert I am not.