basic components required (Vista 20p part 1)

Part 1 of a series of video for DIY installation of the Vista 20P home security alarm system. This video covers the basic components all new home alarm systems.

[@jen-jac]

This video series is still current 10 years later. Thank you so much.

[@bounder97]

You're very welcome!

[@martyb3783]

I am re-watching these videos as I am make some changes to my alarm system. It is a GREAT reference collection of videos for the Vista series of alarm systems. Thanks for making these.

[@bounder97]

Excellent!

[@cruz47144]

Hi visiting again 5 years later as I'm trying to update my system with some wireless devices. Glad this series is still here to refresh my training from long ago when I first attempted my install 15 years ago

[@bounder97]

Welcome back!

[@PURASANTE]

Wow!!! Such a very detailed and informative video series. Thank you very much!!! Still applies in 2019 since the company installed the same system in my new house.

[@FarmDad]

Very impressive and helpful video, bud.

[@buzzyng]

Thanks for this series. I am building house and have run all the cables during rough in .... and now am ready to start configuration. This will definitely help fast track the process. Really appreciate you taking the time to publish

[@bounder97]

Hello, Sirens and horns that I know about do not normally require a driver card. All the alarm outputs that I know of only require power to activate. The power comes directly from the Vista panel battery, which is one of the reasons why the battery is so important. If you applied the correct voltage to the siren and it did not sound, make sure the power source you used has enough current capacity to drive the siren. (Look for a manufacturing label stating voltage/current requirements on the siren). Some sirens require more power then the vista panel is capable of delivering. In this case, the alarm panel output is used to activate a relay to provide power from a larger power source. If you used the correct voltage supported by the proper current, then the non sounding siren may be bad. With all of that said, remember, I am talking about Vista 20p alarm systems. I do not know how ADT drives their sirens. Good luck

[@chadrowland5234]

ADT just uses straight 12 volt DC power straight from the panel's bell circuit. However, Brinks, I have heard used a loudspeaker for it's siren. The Brinks panel on the other hand had a tone driver hooked into the bell circuit and that tone driver had a siren noise that was recorded and it played back on the loudspeaker. However, the vast majority of ADT sirens just used straight 12 volt DC straight from the bell circuit. I have a system from ASG security and I actually have an ADT siren on mine and it works perfectly happily on my old ASG security system from 2007. You can also use a Wheelock AMT multi tone horn as well and it works quite well and has a recessed appearance. System Sensor mass horns work good too on security systems. I have a System Sensor mass on my Honeywell vista system and I haven't had any problems with it. I just left it set on the all too familiar 800 hertz tone because, I didn't want to mess with changing the tone on it. Just set that to siren tone although I left mine on the all too familiar 800 hertz tone that the System Sensor mass comes set to. And, it worked just fine. Although you can also use the good old fashioned electro-mechanical bells like that of what you heard ringing when you were in school but use the ones that are made for fire alarm systems. You'll have a much easier time powering up the bell if it is a fire alarm certified bell and is diode polarized so you can also use it on a supervised bell circuit if you should ever need to. But, to break this all down, an ADT siren should be able to be operated on straight 12 volt DC power straight from the bell circuit. Some do use a loudspeaker but the vast majority of them are conventional sirens that use 12 volt DC power straight from the bell circuit or power supply.

[@scooterrockets7815]

Outstanding content and very valuable! Thank U!

[@bounder97]

My pleasure!

[@jamesvanmeter6272]

Hey, Thanks so much for the video. I had read a lot of security system forym posts before choosing the Vista 20p and the components. Your advice with care about keypad selection is spot in with what I'd read elsewhere. I had read one recommendation about upgrading from the 4ah battery to the 7ah battery. In pricing out components on Amazon I found it was only $2 or $3 more so I went for it (we are in a rural area with several blackouts annually) but I also wanted to power 4 sirens.

[@CplBill_USMC]

Good videos, thanks for sharing.

[@jonathancaldwell50]

Thank you for posting these series of videos. I bought that same system from the home security store. I couldn't get any help from them. The only problem I had with my system was with wiring the two wire fire alarm. I still cant get it to work. Can you post something on that.

[@bounder97]

When I can scrape up some extra money, I will buy a two wire fire alarm and post a video on how to install it on a Vista system. Sorry, it won't happen right away though. Thanks for the suggestion.

[@DASDmiser]

I have a question about upgrading and existing Vista 20P system that has a wireless 5881 module, wireless sensors and only 1 6150 wired fixed display. I want to expand the system by adding a second wireless keypad to cover another door and provide myself programming capability. Can I just add a 6160RF at the second door to provide wireless connectivity and programability? Or should I upgrade the existing keypad to a 6160 (programability) and install a 5858 wireless keypad at the 2nd entry? The first alternative (adding a single 6160RF) is apparently cheaper.

[@huongyn8808]

I have the old DSC PC-1555 system. For cellular primary monitor, could I just swap it to the Vista 20P, Honeywell LTEM-XV, and Honeywell 6160 Alphanumeric Keypad? Or there is something else I have to do in order for it to work properly? Thank you!

[@bounder97]

I'm sorry. I do not know the answer to your question.

[@ToddM452]

So purchased a new panel with board and transformer to replace a flood damaged board. I bought the 6160 pad to help reprogram the panel. Can I still keep the other touch pad 6150 on the system without replacing it too? Do I have to install all those resistors that came with it? I didn’t see all those used on my old panel and board??

[@bounder97]

Your questions sound like they deserve easy answers, but it is much more complicated because there are a lot of variables involved. I see you attached this question to my first Vista video. So I imagine you did not watch the rest of the videos which would have answered your questions. You can have more than one control panel. I show you how in part 11 of the series. The resistor requirement is dependent on how you program your alarm system. I cover this in part 5 of the series. I have consolidated years worth of studying the vista into this series. You can benefit from it by investing a few hours watching the videos. Good Luck and have fun!!

[@mp2be]

Your video series for vista 20p has been incredibly helpful for alarm installation. The alarm panel is not hard but it certainly is not intuitive. Your videos really help to bridge that gap. I had one question though. What size connectors did you use on the wires to get them to fit on the control panel terminals?

[@bounder97]

Hello, the connectors are called ring terminals. Specifically "RED 22-16 AWG NO. 4 RING TERMINALS". MCM P.N. 28-5950 found on MCM Electronics website.

[@mp2be]

Great thanks!

[@ayakomiller1746]

Thank you SO much for these videos!!! You have honestly made my life so much easier... I can't believe how through you are. Thanks again. A couple of questions if you have time. The specs on the 6160 keypad says current is 40mA/150mA but the table in the Vista 20P manual for calculating max AUX current says 100mA for the 6160. I understand that standby for 6160 is 40mA and alarm (with backlighting) is 150mA, so why does the table have 100mA instead of 150mA? My total items connected to AUX power are two 6160s keypads (100mA or 150mA each???), 8 Motion Sensors (25mA each), 3 Glass Break Sensors (12mA each) and an EnvisaLink EVL-4EZR (for internet connection 65mA) for a total of 601mA or 501mA (depending on whether the 6160s are supposed to be 100mA or 150mA each). Calculation = 200 (or 300) + 200 + 36 + 65 = 501mA (or 601mA). While it may not matter, I also have three sirens connected to alarm output with a total of 1,500mA. Which number should I use in my AUX output calculation for the 6160: 100 or 150mA? If it's 150mA, does it matter that I'm 1 mA over the limit for AUX max current output (600mA)? Do I have to add supplemental power (and another battery)? If not, how large should my battery be (17.2AH battery or is a 7AH battery OK)? Final question, why are the UL numbers in the manual so much lower (e.g., max AUX current < 500mA total instead of 600mA) - are they just [unnecessarily] conservative?

[@bounder97]

Wow, that's a lot of detail. I like that! My first guess on why the installation manual current readings are different then the keypad specs is that the installation manual value seems to be an average of the current draws for a device. (150 + 40 / 2 = 95). I personally would use the specs as called out by the manufacture instead. I also would not worry about 1 mA overage. That is only .16666 percent over the rated max. My only concern is that you would be running the output at maximum all the time. If the designers of that card did a good job, there should be no problems, but if they built it on the cheap, it could prematurely damage the card. (However, remember you are not actually always pulling max amperage. Max amperage occurs only during an alarm condition. Which we both hope is NEVER). As far as to the build quality of the Vista Card..... I have had to replace two of them in the last 10 years. Hmmmmm.. As far as the size of the battery, it does not effect normal alarm operation. The battery comes into play when there is an alarm condition to drive your alarm outputs. It also comes into play when when you loose your AC input. It will continue to operate the alarm during the power outage. Since I want the alarm to stay on, even during extended power outages, I have a battery so large it will not even fit into the panel. So bigger is better, but not necessary for the operation of the panel during normal conditions. As far as the Amp Hour ratings on batteries, there are some facts that your should be aware of. (You will not actually get 17.2 AH out of that battery). Please review my playlist posting covering Lead Acid Batteries. I think you find it very informative. Thanks for the question and have a great day! P.S. Please remember, I am just a standard person. I am not an alarm system designer.

[@ayakomiller1746]

@@bounder97 Thank you so much for your quick reply!!! After I finish working on the alarm, I'm going to watch your other videos on the Cameras. As always, you have been so helpful. Keep up the good work!

[@fastsvo]

Would a "low batt" warning lead to funky things like a motion sensor going off unexpectedly?

[@bounder97]

I would not expect a low batt warning to do that. It does not power the motion sensor. The battery comes into play only during a power outage or after an alarm has been activated, it drives the sirens and lights for the alarm system.

[@fastsvo]

@@bounder97 ok sounds good. Maybe my motion sensor is going bad then.

[@jmerideth-webb8071]

Great videos on the 20P. I have a 15P that I'm trying to bring back to life. I've found your videos helpful. Thanks for posting. I do have one question. Do you have any idea how I can test for a short for each hone run to my doors and windows. I assume I need an ohm meter but beyond that I have no idea what I'm doing. Any suggestions would be helpful. Thanks

[@bounder97]

Hello, thanks for contacting me. Congrats on tackling this job head on. I recommend watching my video on "monitoring a safe 24 hours a day", (kzbin.info/www/bejne/goXZgmiMaLqEh5o) specifically around the 11 minute mark. I show you how a reed sensor is hooked up. This is what will be mounted on your door or window normally. Then around the 12 minute mark, I show how the multimeter should respond when it is hooked across the two wires going to the sensor. Note, the meter is set the "OHM" (looks like a horseshoe) position. You would perform this check on each door/window wire pair coming into your Vista 15. I would also recommend watching my video on "installing sensors" (kzbin.info/www/bejne/e4TVqXeKhamLnrc) in case the person that installed the original system did not wire the system using the normally closed contacts. This video will explain the other wiring option. GOOD LUCK!

[@jmerideth-webb8071]

@@bounder97 Outstanding and thanks for the response. I passed over the video on monitoring a safe because I don't have one and didn't think it applied to me... I'll watch. tonight. My panel is a mess. I have ~10 windows wired to 1 zone, no wires are labeled and one is causing a fault. I've got some work ahead of me and your video will be helpful. Best regards

[@rickslock]

I just got done installing a vista 15 panel with a 6160 keypad, can you tell me why the alarm goes off as soon as the delay times out when setting the 6160 in the away mode with no faults shown. It works perfectly when setting the alarm in the stay mode.

[@bounder97]

rickslock I'm sorry, I don't have a clue.

[@Cheetoz]

can i replace the chip in my adt board to a vista 20p to follow your process or do I need to replace the whole board and chip?

[@bounder97]

Circuit boards are normally designed to work for a particular chip. If your ADT is not actually a renamed Vista 20 card (most likely it is), then I don't think changing the chip is a viable option. I would just order a Vista 20p alarm panel and pull the entire card out of it then install it into the ADT panel. At that point, then follow my videos for hookup and programming. Good Luck!!!

[@Cheetoz]

@@bounder97 thx for the quick response... do you know if a sound driver card is needed for a siren/horn? My old adt has 2 siren/horn. I try to send power to it and go no sound. There is a sound driver card in the alarm panel, I'm thinking I need to connect to it

[@rickslock]

It turned out to be *38 (confirmation of arming ding) somehow it got turned on during my programming :-).

[@mrpodface2904]

Do you recommend any kits?

[@bounder97]

I'm sorry to say no I don't. I have ordered stuff from lots of different places. Sometimes it goes smoothly, other times it doesn't.

[@ALLEAREALESTATE]

Can anyone tell me how to connect electricity to panel without using the plug-in transformer? This is the way it is done at my home with a previous install.

[@Memerino-ly7yr]

you can't u will make the panel smoke

[@ALLEAREALESTATE]

@@Memerino-ly7yr Found out they hid a 220v transformer in the attic wiring. Not the plug in type. Have to disconnect power at Electrical box.

[@Memerino-ly7yr]

@@ALLEAREALESTATE holy hell it took seven years? I fell out of the alarm panel knowledge base

[@ALLEAREALESTATE]

@@Memerino-ly7yr Nope, just saw this old post and thought I would update.

[@johnkosheluk1041]

If you are not a pro alarm installer you can't get tech support I have tried

[@bounder97]

Hello John, that is kind of why am posting this video series on home alarm installation. So the rest of of can have security in our homes. This series covers everything I had to teach myself to install an alarm from scratch. I hope you watched more then just the first video. Many people have told me they installed their own system using only this video series as a reference.

[@chadrowland5234]

Very nice video. But I want to recommend one piece to your system. The true thing about carbon monoxide is that it is colorless and odorless, you cannot see it or smell it. And, deadly! Absolutely deadly. Carbon monoxide is often called the silent killer because, it is oftentimes the cause of death in homes all across the world. I have a story about a family who were killed by a carbon monoxide leak in their home. Originated from a defective water heater, the entire family succumbed to carbon monoxide poisoning. The police found them a week later. They didn't have a working carbon monoxide detector. I hear these really sad stories about easily preventable tragedies. You would never know that you have a problem unless you have a carbon monoxide detector. And ,if you have a carbon monoxide leak, you're going to want your alarm panel to signal for that as well. Having a carbon monoxide detector hooked up to the panel will make that happen for you. I can't stress enough how much I would highly recommend a carbon monoxide detector to be wired into your alarm panel.

[@bounder97]

Hello Chad, I wanted to thank you for all of your insightful information you have shared with us. I just found 4 other comments you have previously left that the You Tube algorithm did not like. It locked them away. After I found out, I unlocked them and told you tube to post them on my channel. Please continue to share your valuable information with us. And again, THANKS!!

[@chadrowland5234]

​@@bounder97 I will. I learned all of this because, I have my very own Honeywell alarm system, same exact system. And over the years, I have learned a lot from it. I actually have another carbon monoxide story. I have a friend who was having a headache and talking funny on the phone and I recognized the symptoms and called 911. Her house had a concentration of 3,400 parts per million. And, it came from a piece of insulation from the attic that fell into the vent stack of the furnace. But, carbon monoxide can result from generators, furnaces, water heaters, you name it. The good news is that carbon monoxide detectors can easily be added to a Honeywell vista 20p system and I have been very loyal to System Sensor for carbon monoxide detectors for these systems. However, Simplex, Potter, DSC, and others make great smoke and carbon monoxide detectors as well, get 4 wire...trust me. You'll have a far easier time getting them to work. However, smoke detectors need their power to be cut and back on again for them to reset. You should do a video about installing a smoke detector reset relay on your system. For the graphical interface touchscreen keypad, I don't have a problem saying that you need one of those babies. I have one of them on my alarm system and I don't have any problems telling you that I am seriously considering buying a second one. Those things are nice. The 6160PX keypad is great too. You need to keep making more videos about this. I had a Honeywell 6139 keypad that started saying OPEN CKT error and I couldn't figure out what was wrong. It started when I put it on an alternate power supply. Then, I saw your video about how to add a power supply for your graphical touchscreen keypad and I wired my 6139 keypad power supply just like how you did your touchscreen supplemental power supply and that 6139 has worked perfectly ever since. So, please keep your alarm videos coming!

[@bounder97]

Thanks Chad. I probably will not do a carbon monoxide video for two reasons. One is that they are hard wired. I have no more hard wired Zones left in my alarm, and don't want to install another expander module. Since I am retired now, the expense of buying those parts is something I really hate to do. The other reason is that like you said, Carbon Monoxide detection is so important, I actually have several stand alone detectors. They act as backups for each other. Additionally, one item like my alarm panel going out will not cause me to lose my carbon monoxide detection. Perhaps some day I will find the winning lottery ticket in the street and will be able to buy lots of extra parts for the alarm panel. When that occurs, I will jump on making those videos using my Vista training center instead of my home alarm. Again, thanks for sharing.

[@DASDmiser]

I have a question about upgrading and existing Vista 20P system that has a wireless 5881 module, wireless sensors and only 1 6150 wired fixed display. I want to expand the system by adding a second wireless keypad to cover another door and provide myself programming capability. Can I just add a 6160RF at the second door to provide wireless connectivity and programability? Or should I upgrade the existing keypad to a 6160 (programability) and install a 5858 wireless keypad at the 2nd entry? The first alternative (adding a single 6160RF) is apparently cheaper.