Basic Wiring For Your DC Layout - Model Railroading For Beginners Ep 20

[@SamuelSliger]

Just a real beginner here...Christmas got me into HO trains...2023...you were so on with wiring and I will watch it and more.....but model trains they are something else.......but the more you do the more you want to do more & more......keep giving us your Knowledge...it really helps!!!

[@TomsTrainsandThings]

Have fun! It's addictive

[@MUD252]

I'm finally to a point where your channel is more than likely going to be heavily watched by me. Thank you sir!!

[@TomsTrainsandThings]

Glad to hear it! Glad to help

[@ovethompson9611]

I am an old guy who hasn’t even seen a train set in 50 years and I’m diving into Marklin Z scale. The learning curve is much more than I thought it would be. Thank you.

[@TomsTrainsandThings]

I have a hard time with N scale. I can just imagine how difficult it is with Z. That's why I model in HO.

[@johnbanicki7232]

Great video for anyone using DC.

[@TomsTrainsandThings]

Glad you liked it!

[@MMRails]

Tom, excellent video. I can’t tell you how much I appreciate the shout out. I really enjoyed collaborating with you on that wiring video. Makes me wanna go back and spruce it up! The reverse loop is one thing I never tackled. Maybe one day. Keep up the great work, your video quality is improving with each video. -Mark

[@TomsTrainsandThings]

Thank you Mark. Hopefully some day we can do another one together. You want to spruce it up... does that mean there are more videos coming!

[@rdubstacks1289]

Thanks for the vid...I've watched several other KZbin channels on this topic and I actually understood your the easiest!

[@TomsTrainsandThings]

Thanks, glad I could help.

[@HeresOneForYa]

You make DC wiring less intimidating, thanks Tom!

[@TomsTrainsandThings]

Your welcome Bryant

[@jimmiebinglesr459]

nothing like basics, Thanks Tom

[@TomsTrainsandThings]

Your welcome Jim

[@dacuzzz]

great info for the beginner..Tom.. thanks for sharing.. vinny

[@TomsTrainsandThings]

Thanks Vinny

[@dqauto500]

Thanks!!!!

[@TomsTrainsandThings]

No problem!

[@peterfrenzel1826]

Great Video, thx Tom.

[@TomsTrainsandThings]

Glad I could help Peter.

[@CyclingDinosaur]

Thanks for the advice.

[@TomsTrainsandThings]

Any time!

[@kevinpurcell2093]

Tom I will take some pictures and send the link. I run DC.

[@kevinpurcell2093]

Hi here is the link. I hope that you find it helpful. photos.app.goo.gl/Pbo4CWMRHYD2chMP7

[@TomsTrainsandThings]

Sounds good

[@kevinpurcell2093]

@@TomsTrainsandThings If you need any more info, or pictures, then let me know.

[@TomsTrainsandThings]

Send in EMAIL.... your comments with attachments get deleted. I need a pic of all connections on both wires from transformer to rail.

[@kevinpurcell2093]

@@TomsTrainsandThings hi I need to check every terminal wires as part of rulling out possible problems.

[@randysrockandrollrailroad8207]

Hey Tom, I will be adding a reverse loop to my layout in the future and a staging/yard in the middle of the loop, I have not done any thing like this, if I have any trouble you bet I will be hitting you up lol. Later

[@TomsTrainsandThings]

Thanks Randy. I'll be doing a follow up video soon on some of the areas I covered in this video. One is on having indicator lights at each end of the reversing loop to determine the polarity of the switched section.

[@abdullahabu1252]

Good day John. I like your show I have a question regarding how I can make the Atlas snap turnout switch code 100 model # 180 to be a DCC Friendly working? Please advice me. AALWABIL

[@johnfloyd838]

Hi Tom , do I have to use plastic rail joiners and a terminal track for each spur that I add to my layout ,I am building the yardmaster from the atlas blueprint book #105 ,I also added a manual turntable to the inner loop of the figure 8?

[@TomsTrainsandThings]

Yes you do

[@johnfloyd838]

@@TomsTrainsandThings thanks Tom

[@bengiroulx9603]

I just did an overhaul on my layout. Didn't change up the bus wiring (It was working great prior to construction) Reattached the various feeder wires on the same position of rail as before the construction. Once both bus wire are connected to the power pack as they were in the past, it shorts out. Tried to fuse and solder in multiple spots with no luck. I would love ideas on how to problem solve. Thank you in advance from all who helpfully chime in. This is the only downside of the project. 13 hours and successfully recreated the layout to take up much less space.

[@TomsTrainsandThings]

hook it up one by one. Break it down into sections troubleshooting tips kzbin.info/www/bejne/nWStaGmpgK53hK8

[@johnpauljones-n7z]

I would like to know, as you add more track, do you require more power feeds to rail districts, and is there are rules for districts?

[@TomsTrainsandThings]

You might find some usefull information here:kzbin.info/www/bejne/q4WrpKaPp5ppgcU

[@olivier2446]

Hi Tom. My name is Olivier. I really enjoy your layouts and examples of layout help and assistance. I have a question? The third layout is amazing and i would like the plans for it. The one with the reverse loop

[@TomsTrainsandThings]

Links to the layouts in this video are in the description!

[@renegadecomander]

Hah. Im running a 2 cab setup similar to that 2nd diagram and I didn't double gap my 2 loops! Probably why I'm having issues running trains in opposite directions...

[@TomsTrainsandThings]

Thant can explain it!

[@royalspatz5503]

Question I have an older Tech ii 1400 Transformer. Can I wire up my lionel O gage 3 track using the 2 Variable DC terminals ?

[@TomsTrainsandThings]

No. 3 Rail O gauge is AC

[@swarnabpaul2040]

Tom Does the DC need bus wiring and another question is does it require circuit breaker for DC?

[@TomsTrainsandThings]

Bus wiring is for long runs on a layout. How big is your layout?

[@swarnabpaul2040]

Sir does DC need circuit breaker please reply Tom

[@TomsTrainsandThings]

You are running one train on one track No

[@samhane11]

Tom i need your advise.Its me the little guy from Four Brothers Journey. Ass man ? Pronounced AHSMAN? Any way i have torn down about 4 of my 6 tables of track. I have Bachman NS HO scale ez fit. Worked great no complaints. I want more control over my railroad and the Command Control just cant do what I want. Digitrax is the way im upgrading. Question Sell all my Bachman track? Or just the switches? try to adapt by heavy ballasting to cover up going from Bachman to Peco or Atlas? I like code 83 with brown ties. There is some Money involved spent on my 5 years or so of the DCC Bachman system, so i need some peoples opinions and advise please. Like all of us retired folks. I can grow oranges on a tree but cant seem to get my money tree to bloom. Sell all Bachman or Add on? Ben A.

[@TomsTrainsandThings]

Hi Ben. I use my Bachman EZ Track on my living room floor under the Christmas tree. It will always have a good place. I also use it for a test track. As far as replacement brands, I used a lot of Peco code 83 on my layout. While I was building my layout, there was a shortage of flex track so I have some off brands in there also. My turnouts consist of Peco, Atlas and Shinohara. The different brands are due to availability of a turnout that would fit my needs. Shinohara seemed to be the most finicky as far as alignment issues.. If it's too difficult to pull the Bachman, you can always ballast over then, just lay some cork underlayment along each side so you don't have to go so high!

[@samhane11]

Thanks Tom. APPRECIATE and respect your opinions. Wish i was in Bonita Springs.

[@moistyfinch2226]

Hey there ‘ I have a regular Ho scale dc controller but once I put a turnout on my layout the trains run out of power after the turnout ? How do I fix this . And is there only so much feet of track I can have before my controller doesn’t reach them ? Thanks

[@TomsTrainsandThings]

You need feeders beyond the turnout. You mostlikely have an insulated frog. See if you can spot a gap behind the frog

[@TheFrogfeeder]

Hi Tom thanks for the video, I was wondering if my idea is gonna work: I have a bachmann D&Sng N scale train set for my Highline diorama, I just found and ordered another used set to make the train longer. I would like to run both locos as a double header, which the actual RR is known to do. Am I gonna have problems? Do I have to disable one of the locos? They are the same train for the same manufacturer, won’t they just run at the same speed as each other and be just fine? I guess I’ll find out in a couple days...edit: the track on my layout/diorama is only a loop of just less than 3 lengths of atlas flex track, so this thing is small, I dunno if that makes a difference, and everything is soldered...

[@TomsTrainsandThings]

Sorry it took so long to reply. For some reason KZbin put this in "Held For Review" which I seldom look at. You may have different speeds on the locos even though they are the same. If so, just disable the motor on one of them

[@gamingwithPJ592]

Hi Ive got a DC track and im wondering how to stop my trains cutting out when i change my points

[@TomsTrainsandThings]

Are the stopping when you switch them or when the loco runs over the frog? What brand and style? Insulfrog, electrofrog, or unifrog as in the Peco brand. There are different wirings for different types of frogs

[@raymondanthony127]

Common rail wiring is simple and works great. When wired correctly, no short circuit will occur even when one of the 2 power packs reverses polarity. I was skeptical about the common rail wiring method at first but gave it a try and I'm amazed. Can someone please explain the science behind how it's possible? Thanks

[@TomsTrainsandThings]

Check out the NMRA article on it. This method is something Modelers relied on decades ago. It's a good start for a DCC system. www.nmra.org/beginner/wiring

[@raymari7658]

Doing my first layout. I found from Kato plans for Loop DE Loop. A double oval with two turnouts. Do I need to power more than one section of track ? Also, will the power pak that comes with a standard n scale Bachmann set handle this plan ? Thank you

[@TomsTrainsandThings]

Most starter power packs will handle one locomotive. I would put a feeder in each loop to be on the safe side.

[@raymari7658]

@@TomsTrainsandThings Hello Tom thank you for answering. Let's me see if I understand correctly. I want to run power to both loops by adding two wires from the power source. Another question. I have several different types of wall warts. Do you have a video on how they are used with accessories ?

[@jimbennett3952]

Tom...quick and helpful reply...but if I want I can also use that 2nd wire as main positive (+) lead from power pack...right?

[@TomsTrainsandThings]

Jim, send me a pic to my email. I have no idea what your trying to do with this wire. Your last comment was about an extra wire on your terminal track.

[@redbarnz]

I'm sticking with DC cuz its as simple as I am.... wait a minute...!

[@TomsTrainsandThings]

Dc is also good

[@ShelbyBanditNFS]

I just bought me a MRC 9900 Throttlepack for more Locomotive power :)

[@TomsTrainsandThings]

Glad you got some more power for your railroad.

[@mad-max1829]

if i run my loco anti clockwise direction on a simple circle dc track would the positive wire still be on the outside rail?

[@TomsTrainsandThings]

Doesn't matter where you put what wire. You have a reverse switch on your power pack!

[@kimwilson5675]

Hi Tom. Looking to design a ceiling mounted layout to cover multiple rooms in my house. So, the track runs will be very long and voltage drop will be a major concern. I currently have an HO scale model train on code 83 track. But, I am not opposed to changing to a different scale and track to make this project work. The layout will be a single track design. There are three rooms I am considering each about 11' x 12'. What is the best approach to ensure voltage over such a long distance with only one controller?

[@TomsTrainsandThings]

Run a bus wire under the layout with feeders up to the track. I have a few videos for feeder wires for DCC but it still pertains to DC.

[@shanetombyll4805]

question...if i wanted to run one long loop on dc..like 50ft total loop..no switches..will there be enough power with one power controller..if not how do i add power for it to work?

[@TomsTrainsandThings]

50 ft is about a loop around the wall in a 1 car garage. No problem

[@shanetombyll4805]

@@TomsTrainsandThings ty sir wasent sure how to add power to track in other places around entire track was also worried about train going slower the further away the train got from power supply

[@Jstroman221]

@5:00 I basically have the same layout DC wired. Question I want to add additional power ie feeder wires turnouts and track.. How then would I connect them to my cab, Do I have to splice these additional wires w/ the power I already have coming from the track terminal? In DC layouts they use buses and attach feeder wires from the track to the bus. How do you apply feeder wires to a DC layout? I've seen people twist both sets of wires (from track terminal w/ the feeder) but my cab will short by having more than one cable on each terminal of the cab. I do not want to make blocks throughout the layout. Any help would be great thanks subscribed. My Cab is the same as the one in your video w/ two cabs in a single unit.

[@Jstroman221]

I'm sure splicing the wires together would work but I'm not very familiar w/ it. I see people using these plastic suitcases to connect wires. Could I use a suitcase and attach my feeder wires w/ my track power that comes from the terminal, splice the two and run them to the back of my cab? Trying to be as clear as possible.

[@TomsTrainsandThings]

Use terminal boards. I have several other videos on wiring your layout and basic electrical principles. Also check out Model Railroading For Beginners Ep 10 kzbin.info/www/bejne/jJW1dIKkYquNic0

[@dickygeemusic]

Interesting and informative, however, as a complete beginner, I am still a little confused as to how to wire a DC end to end shelf layout with sidings and fiddle yard.

[@TomsTrainsandThings]

Richard, if your not concerned with blocks. You just need to make sure your power is extended beyond each turnout. If your going to separate sections with blocks, I have a few more videos available in this palylist: kzbin.info/aero/PLjjhnrIKSTSgMZX9dclJCZnNKWkZhijm3

[@salvadorpalomino7794]

hi there i am new at this i am trying to make one long track how can i wirer it

[@TomsTrainsandThings]

How long is long?

[@bobslagle6522]

Hi Tom - Like your videos. Would you be able to tell me how to wire in a DC analog volt meter on my train? I don't understand how to hook up the voltage meter so that when I put the train in reverse, the meter doesn't go backwards. I don't want to damage the meter. I'm also trying to put a DC analog amp meter with a shunt next to the voltage meter.

[@TomsTrainsandThings]

You need to have the ability to install this between the speed control and the direction switch. Mostly all ammeters come with instructions on how to wire them. They would go in series on one of the lines.

[@bobslagle6522]

​@@TomsTrainsandThings Thanks Tom, I think that the ammeter hooks up to a shunt. I have only been able to test the voltmeter. I tried to test the ammeter but the one I had on hand has too big of a range, and the shunt was too big as well. I was hoping that the ammeter would work both ways. Sounds like I need to wire it up like you said. So do I need to put the voltmeter between the speed control and the direction switch also?

[@TomsTrainsandThings]

Yes

[@kennethhickman4583]

I'm concerned about my power bus being too big for my layout which is on a 8'x 3' piece of plywood. DC now but want to go to DCC eventually. 14 awg for buss and 22awg for feeders. N scale. 1 siding about 10" long. I realize that further the locomotive gets from the power source, it intends to slow down. 14awg too heavy?

[@TomsTrainsandThings]

14 awg is what is recommended for N & HI scales bus. 20 or 22 for feeders

[@kennethhickman4583]

@@TomsTrainsandThings T/Y.

[@andystrains4335]

I never quite understood the gaping part when you need it etc

[@kempersmith6462]

I am building a yard that needs to cascade the switches so that the train can go into the correct or desired rail. How do you wire this in DC so that pushing a switch or using a toggle switch so that the correct switch gets thrown while the others stay in a straight position?

[@TomsTrainsandThings]

If I'm understanding you correctly, you would have a switch wired for each turnout. That way you could control each one individually.

[@KerleyExpress]

Hi Tom I know this is a older post an I just started to wire my layout an can i use toggle switch 's instead of those ugly Atlas switch"s

[@TomsTrainsandThings]

Dwight, you can use any compatible switch for all your projects.

[@ronsrailroad7176]

do you know the proper way to install phone jacks around dc layout?. i have a walk around for dc but when trying to wire up extra PHONE jacks it shorted out my powere pack

[@TomsTrainsandThings]

How are you attempting to connect it? It's only 2 wires.

[@ronsrailroad7176]

@@TomsTrainsandThings is it red to red and white to green on the outlet ?. mine had 4 wires and i hooked them up color for color and shorted out my power pack

[@TomsTrainsandThings]

What are you holding in your hand to control the loco speed & direction? What wires from your power pack are connected to what wires on the jack? What does the instructions of your hand held tell you?

[@ronsrailroad7176]

no instruction. it is a blue hogger walk around which i have a hand held unit attached with phone cord. just trying to add phone outlets to layout so i can unplug and plug into another outlet. phone cord had 4 wires inside.

[@TomsTrainsandThings]

cs.trains.com/mrr/f/88/t/30977.aspx

[@jimbennett3952]

Hey Tom... I find my rerailer is joint function...It has two wire connections...one seems to be a "feeder"....and it's hooked properly to a switch control and working....WHAT do I do with the other wire?

[@TomsTrainsandThings]

Jim, you have a connector on both sides of your rerailer assuming your referring to a Bachman EZ track. You only need to use the connector on one side of the track.

[@jimbennett3952]

@@TomsTrainsandThings Yep...but while I am using one side right now to connect that block to the control switch....I thought I would try to use the other wire as my main connect to the CONTROL WIRE....seems to work....you have any reasons why I should not do that....

[@TomsTrainsandThings]

Jim, I have no idea what your referring to as "the other wire" or "CONTROL WIRE" Like I said before, send me a picture to my email.

[@jimbennett3952]

@@TomsTrainsandThings Sorry...on the rerailer there are two connector points ...right? I am using one to connect that particular BLOCK in DC layout to the Atlas control switch....and am thinking that it is OK to use the 2nd connector (with wire) to connect direct to COMMON wire. That seem to be OK with you?

[@TomsTrainsandThings]

Send a picture to my email. When you say common wire, control wire, and other wire, it means absolutely noting. It's like pointing to something and saying "that over there."

[@andrewlaverghetta715]

Hello to anybody who can help! I’m looking for more information on the “double gap” that he talks about near the inner loop of the second graphic. He doesn’t go into any detail about what that means, or how you get power to those areas, he just says, “hopefully he had a two cab throttle.” I don’t know what that means. It looks like “double gap” means insulating rail joiners to totally remove them the other loop. How does this work? I’d also like to know how to set up turnouts/switches and how to make them manual with those cool little manual throws as opposed to the kind of turnout with the huge bit of plastic on the side. Or how to wire them?

[@TomsTrainsandThings]

"Double gap" is insulating both rails to isolate the sections entirely. Powering each individual section will be necessary by means of a power supple to these sections. Send me an email if you have any further questions. Easier to communicate that way. Comments get lost, especially on videos several years old.

[@krazi77]

what gauge of wire should I use for my layout? roughly 104 linear feet of track that will be in blocks.

[@TomsTrainsandThings]

The below link is for DCC but it can also be relevant to DC layouts as far as the wire size and technique. kzbin.info/www/bejne/fHqmdp6aYrSmiNk

[@alfredcollins87]

I brought 2 used trains 2 years ago from a show the seller said they light up that's all is it a simple fix or should I through them out just wondering

[@TomsTrainsandThings]

Pop the shell off and see what kind of lights they are and replace them with the new ones.

[@mattsynth]

Why is there not one power supply that will run your trains, turnouts and lights from one box? Or is there such a thing.

[@TomsTrainsandThings]

Power packs were designed to operate from 1 to 2 trains and accessories. Once you get past that you have to look for more sophisticated equipment or multiple pieces for your additional devices.

[@zan917]

Hi Tom, Thanks for sharing some great information with us newbies. Question: If I want to use a toggle switch from a hardware store, is there a voltage/amperage rating I should look for? My wife will tolerate my new hobby better if I don't burn down our garage.

[@TomsTrainsandThings]

Hope your able to learn from my videos Ian. Most of the toggle switches are rated about 5A unless your talking about the miniature ones which can vary by size. Your garage should be safe unless you try to operate your entire layout from one switch. lol

[@zan917]

Toms Trains and Things Great! Thanks.

[@denisestevens6492]

HELP... DC Wiring. I am going spare at moment. With Bus wire..Feeder wires Aaaarrrgh.

[@TomsTrainsandThings]

Is there a question in there?

[@ernielerma5202]

I have a question I have been watching these videos but I need help on my HO layout with feeders and bus wires and solder throughout the layout... but from power pack to tracks no power at all any ideas what is causing this...

[@TomsTrainsandThings]

I would start by checking power at the power pack and working your way back to the track at any junction, (terminal board or solder joint) for power. Somewhere along the line your connection is bad or you have no output from the power pack. Thank you very much for becoming a member of the Train Crew.

[@ernielerma5202]

@@TomsTrainsandThings thanks for getting back with your response I tried the power pack. I dont have a board on my layout... But I do have Atlas of 8 lower bottom of Atlas switches and I have two Peco switches is it possible that the Peco switches are not compatible with the Atlas switches,,, My layout runs in one direction and only one Loco I checked the soldering for continuity everywhere on there and its all good,,, Let me know on your advice on the Peco switches .....My layout is been converted with Nickel Silver tracks I took out he Brass out due to corrosion.......

[@ernielerma5202]

Hi Tom, thank you for your quick response I tried what you mentioned I use a multimeter for continuity and its all good. I have 8 Atlas turnouts on the lower level and 2 Peco turnouts on the upper level is it possible that these two switches are not compatible with the Atlas switches.. I tried some seperate tracks to try the power pack and loco and it runs but when tried the main layout nothing when I use my power pack the bright red light goes dim when I place the wires onto the tracks and the loco doesn't move.... Thanks, Tom

[@TomsTrainsandThings]

Ernie, you can combine any brand turnouts, they are made all the same. It sounds like you have a short in your tracks somewhere. Disconnect the power pack from the tracks and check continuity between the tracks. If you read continuity, you have some wires crossed.

[@ernielerma5202]

@@TomsTrainsandThings your directions were outstanding, and I found continuity between the inner and outer track.. . so that means I have short some where? If it is a short how do I track that down?