How much range did my VW Id.7 Pro lose in 1 Year (19.000 km) ?

[@saschadri]

Good result. My ID.3 with 54.000 km has 2 % degredation after 4 years, almost exclusively charged at home and to 80. Have like a dozen charges on Ionity. Pro S, so same battery.

[@steensuurballe4851]

my ID.3 lost 11% after 60000km almost only homecharging. Its common known MEB cars loses 10% fast

[@ijazsoeltan2661]

Thank you for your videos about the id7! After your reviews and experiences I’ve order my id7 tourer and it’s coming end of February! Keep on making these excellent videos!

[@barryw9473]

Amazing result. No change! Nice work and good job by VW.

[@macki5542]

Glad to see you not having any degradation! My old skoda enyaq coupe rs ( that should have the same battery) ? Had huge degradation! It went from 74,5kwh to 68kwh in six months. I thought I had a battery cell broken, but skoda looked at it, and the battery was fine they said! So no more vag products for me. And I’ve been driving electric for almost 6 years and treated that battery very well.

[@jakeperry7325]

So happy to see this, my ID7 tourer on a lease through work scheme is great! So glad Mercedes delayed my order so I was able to get the VW!

[@rukasuara]

I've had my 2024 id.4 pro for 6 months now, and I've driven 12.000km. Still about 75kWh available from 100% to 0% as calculated by the same method as you use. Much better degradation than my previous 2021 Q4 40. Maybe some hidden buffer or better chemistry, whatever the reason I'm pretty happy.

[@andrei_dk]

Chris, there is something called "HV battery energy content" on Car Scanner and that should show the actual energy you can use from the battery. Just bring it up on the main screen. Would be interesting to see if it matches your result.

[@DFowlesVWID7Tourer]

Reassuring to know that after a year of being driven hard but fairly by Chris and a good mix of rapid and home charging there is no discernable degradation. Given the speeds you drive in Germany and the heavier loading on heating and cooling with weather harsher than compared to the UK I am content I am onto a winner with taking on my own 'Hank' in the spring. Given I drive more conservatively and the motorways seemingly permanently at a reduced speed anyway in the south I am expecting to get some good efficiency numbers and my battery will be uite embarassed how little it has to work compared to yours !

[@Rich-on6fe]

My new year resolution: to stop obsessing over VW battery degradation. Just need to watch this video first.

[@MarcosQuintansLema]

I have the same problem, I am torn between VW ID3 and a KIA EV3 and the battery degradation is a big problem for me and KIA cars seem yo excel in maintaining battery capacity but with this test is reassuring.

[@Rich-on6fe]

I have an id.3 and thus far I'm happy that the range is good. My way of minimising the problem (of inevitable degradation) was to assume that when my car is old and cold, the range will be half of what it was when new. If that's still useful for my normal use, then that's ok. If I hadn't got a VW it would have been something from South Korea.

[@jasonallatt5410]

Brilliant!

[@testi2025]

Finnish vw dealer told that the ID7 5.0 should come out in week 26 or there abouts. And other 4 -> 5 updates for other models should follow.

[@jeanmiegoiste]

Nice! No visible dégradation? In the beginning, the battery was hot. If it wasn’t as hot a year ago, that could be an explanation. More, in refreshed id car there is a far better battery heating management. The post charging management was not there before, causing poor degradation performance.

[@krugerdave]

Helpful tip for the international community: 19.000km means 19km in English! Same as 19,000km written in German or most other languages! Digit grouping is useful for reading numbers, but gets confusing quickly when people are communicating across different languages. That's why ISO 80000 regulates the way numbers should be written in any language. It's very easy: use whatever you want as a decimal, but only use a space for separating digits. That way there's no chance for confusion. Obviously I know that you mean that you drive 19 thousand km, not just 19 point zero zero zero km, but there are plenty of cases where it's ambiguous at best. So 19 000 km please, or at least be like the Swiss and write 19'000 km 😅

[@peteglass3496]

Aviloo might need more data on a model only out for a year. Why not offer yourself and Hank to be a data collection test? It might make good content and exposure for them perhaps.

[@supportitservices6349]

thanks

[@V10PDTDI]

What is the battery cell manufacturer for this car LG chem or SK I have a 2023 ID 4 big battery SK here in Canada it seems to be fine but when you check with OBD app it’s not 77 kw/h anymore but around 75 KW/h

[@miroslavkrejci3928]

I eliminated the clicking (or popping) of the A/C exhaust with a little silicone oil spray. So far, this sound has not returned.

[@philw4625]

Significant capacity loss is probably just a feature of older cars? That said, we have an i3 that is 8 years old and 50000 miles - im not sure i can discern any loss - still a safe 125 miles in summer and 100 in winter. Maybe there is a tiny change, but its not 'functional'. ID7 definitely on my shortlist!

[@abraxastulammo9940]

So maybe your carscanner results are true after all? 😇

[@D230261]

Why don't you just show the battery SOH...

[@USUG0]

question: do you consider the ID7 a model3 or a modelS competitor? (without prioritizing price considerations) thanks

[@brendansheehan7714]

I would say an older Model S I.e. not the Plaid

[@janrasmussen2773]

Hi, where do you find Longitudes/Latitudes and Altimeters in car settings.???

[@simondehaas8784]

In the nav, in the map, click on the arrow that indicates your current location and it will show them

[@blaisebrochard199]

New to electric vehicles here: is it normally believed that charging to 100% all the time is damaging for the battery long term? Is it better to charge to 80 for durability? Thank you

[@glockmanish]

exactly ... key is the voltage ... the highest cell voltages are quickly degrading the electrolyte in the cells. This is a slow and steady process. So there is no problem with charging the car to 100% and right away drive off using that energy (like when you preplan the charging for your leave in the morning). Otherwise the manufacturer would not give warranty for this case. For 99% of people this shouldn't be a problem, as for one we only talk about 10 to 20% of less range, which is very quickly recharged on the way (provided there are chargers available within this range). And on the other hand charging to 100% is only really usefulif your route takes exactly as far as one 100% charge lasts you and there is a charger at the destination ... once you have to charge anyway along the route, just start with 80-90% ... makes no real-world difference. BUT ... manufacturers recommend to charge to 100% every couple of months for cell balancing and capacity calibration. This is ESPECIALLY true for cars with LFP batteries where you should do this every month or when there is sharp shift in outside weather (and thus average battery temperature). This is because LFP practically don't change their voltage between 20 and 80% SoC and the BMS has to estimate the SoC by counting the Ah leaving the battery. So giving the BMS regular readings on how many Ah are in the pack will prevent you from stranding at 10% SoC when it suddenly gets really cold. But on the other hand LFP is known to have no degradation problems with being charged to 100%.

[@Gladki007]

Thumbs up for listening to TOOL!

[@DFowlesVWID7Tourer]

Year on year as manufacturers get more data, more understanding, better products and advancing technology the battery lifespan issue will become less of a worry bead for all. Remember much of the 'bad press' on EVs will come from those who are resistant to change, the ICE only protagonists and those with their heads in the sand who don't want EVs to be the answer. The more real world experience gets out there based on facts that we can see on how easy it is to own and operate, how they are safer both from accidents and in general then the fewer 'excuses' there are to resist. The only real valid objection should just come down to the cost and price of an EV compared to an ICE equivalent.

[@glockmanish]

*The "advances" in battery degradation is purely through battery size.* Driving 19000km just took him around 45 cycles (based on 82kWh gross capacity). Off course there is no meaningful degradation! In the beginning, when EVs had only around 30kWh gross capacity this would have meant 120cycles. Couple that with 210kW of peak power, which means a cell load of around 2.5C at 82kWh and 7C on a 30kWh battery makes it clear which one is under-stressed and which one is just ripped apart! So there is one message with EV battery sizes: go big or go home ... all this whining about "we need small cars with small batteries" is the worst way of thinking! So if one needs a cheaper car they can buy a used car ... As it was done in like the whole 20th century!

[@Gazer75]

I bet another 50+ km would be possible at these temps with a heatpump.

[@ytdood]

I don't get why you say Li Ion batteries lose 5% in the first few months. I had multiple scans of my MG4 and it's at 97%, after close to 2 years and 40k km of driving. Not all batteries degrade the same way and I don't charge it to 100% unless actually needed.

[@renebergqvist599]

Most do. What version is your MG4 ? The base version uses LFP cells - they have a very linear degradation. Also these measurements are not as precise as the BMS accuracy is not 100%>

[@ytdood]

@@renebergqvist599 It's an NMC variant. Checked it with a few different apps and by 2 independent dealers. I get that it may not be 100% accurate, but even my 4 year old, 70k km Skoda Citigo EV, fully charged to 100% daily still has 91% battery left, and the degradation wasn't as severe as I'd have expected. Modern day EVs are much better at retaining their SOC.

[@renebergqvist599]

@ sure - even my 2015 24 kWh Nissan Leaf with 78000 km on the odo had all 12 bars (equal to >88% remaining SoH) when i sold it - and they were not activelt cooled. From that I know the car initially from almost new (500 km) believed it had only 91% SoH - after a few almost zero to 100% charges and some kangaroo driving I got the BMS re-calibrated and the Leaf Spy listed 99% SoH.

[@brendansheehan7714]

I also have an MG4 Trophy model. Last check showed 100% SOH. 1.5 years ownership. Also the MG4 has a very small top buffer so you should see degradation fairly quickly.

[@GloriaHillerer]

Ich sage nicht, dass ich pflegeintensiv bin, aber ich habe definitiv nach meinem Telefon gesucht, während ich telefonierte😛