Replacing a BMW Self-adjusting Clutch & Dual-mass Flywheel Part 1 of 2

[@goma3]

I never heard of your website before, but I am definitely buying some parts from you guys. If you put this much effort into DIY videos, that means you really care about your business and your customers. This is not just slap-on job, these are very carefully produced videos. Great customer service means a lot to me and you guys certainly deliver.

[@RBZ06LT6]

Nah it means they want the bands

[@bavarianautosport]

Thanks for the encouraging words. We certainly do want to help our customers with their BMW ownership and we are, indeed, enthusiasts ourselves.

[@GeorgeAusters]

This looks fun to do whilst lying on the floor of your driveway

[@christiangrad5696]

Installing short shift kit

[@christiangrad5696]

Sorry. Can be deleated.

[@john2000cash]

Thank you for this informative video. I wish more local motor technicians have the courage to advise their customers to replace with the single mass flywheel. Personally I find the irony in the replacement of the DMF with a solid flywheel and non-adjusting clutch kit as too much to take...!

[@connectconsertos]

REPAIR ACESSE kzbin.info_i3tNA_bAyM

[@Juleps007]

Sie sind ein sehr guter Lehrer, danke für ihr Video, ich konnte viel lernen! 🤗

[@Hubjeep]

Thanks for the video. The clutch started slipping on my 1998 M-roadster (S52) last week, car has 83K miles. This video was a nice refresher for me, it's been a few years since I have replaced a clutch. I forgot about the pivot pin and exhaust gaskets!

[@adrianovergara2942]

well narrated and well explained very clear I have learned a lot from this video

[@farerse]

this looks professionaly done!

[@normansabel1850]

Leave 1 bolt to hold the flywheel while you pry it off the crankshaft. Easier than playing catch with a big piece of steel.

[@RogerMasson]

One minor, but incredibly important detail when removing the transmission is to make sure you have REMOVED the speed sensor, also known as the crankshaft position sensor, also known as the pulse generator. I missed this step on my 2003 M5 and it cost me at least a half hour trying to wrestle the transmission from the engine, and it also cost me the sensor. I don't know if this sensor is present in all E39's, but it is definitely there in the M5.

[@connectconsertos]

REPAIR ACESSE kzbin.info_i3tNA_bAyM

[@clefchef8121]

"Torque it to the specification" - it would be nice to know those specifications, could you just mention those on the video?

[@gregorytolson4621]

Fcp euro has a video showing all the torque specs on an e46

[@bavarianautosport]

Yes ... the only differnce on the SMG is the automated clutching and shifting. The transmission is basically the same as the standard transmission.

[@cockyhotty]

Very, very precise work! Well done!

[@colinanelay5505]

Very useful and wee presented. Thanks.

[@ilkinhamidov]

Thank you very much. Actually the issue was re manufactured clutch back up wheel. Took it out and it had a crack on through the body Under rev it would create dis balance and eventually would destroy the crankshaft bearings

[@jtdouglas9535]

amazing quality. This is the equivalent of a shop class on BMWs with incredibly succinct detail. Thank you. Do you have any videos on making my own home time machine?

[@bavarianautosport]

We have the time machine video in production now. Should be done by April first.

[@baltod4978]

THANK YOU!!! SO VERY MUCH! I'll be doing this in a month or two!

[@carmengonzalez3018]

THE BEST VIDEO EVER IN YOU TUBEI.

[@davidniquot6423]

A small lateral (Push-Pull left and right) play is normal and even exist on a new dual mass flywheel.

[@absolutegtr]

Excellent video! How do I know my 2004 330ci 6-spd has a SAC? It is as 115k miles now and slipping.

[@sonnym9905]

Fantastic video. Thank you very much.

[@atlanticsteroids9625]

BavAuto is the one stop shop for all your bimmer needs and that is a fact. I do have one question however, why did you guys not replace the flywheel on the car after saying it was bad?

[@bavarianautosport]

We did replace the flywheel ... we installed the UUC aluminum flywheel!

[@atlanticsteroids9625]

Ahh I didn't see part 2 before writing that. UUC Lightweight flywheel is the way to go for sure.

[@raulnyquist]

2:45 STARTS THE REAL DEAL!!!

[@bobatporty]

In the video it looks like you reused the old dual mass flywheel on the rebuild?? But a very informative video thanks

[@bavarianautosport]

The main video shows installing the aluminum flywheel and performance clutch. We did also show how to install a replacement self-adjusting clutch, as a side note. In this section, we did show this on the old stock dual-mass flywheel. If we were completing the install using a stock clutch set-up, we would have either replaced the dual-mass flywheel or installed the dual-mass & self-adjusting elimination kit.

[@BY-ib9ew]

excellent video as usual

[@bavarianautosport]

On the BMW applications, we have found the conversions to be very smooth and solid, when installing the heavy conversion flywheel kits. the lightweight conversions, using the aluminum flywheels, have a bit less damping due to the lower rotational mass.

[@DavidFKturbo]

Get rid of dual-mass for much smoother operation, then why is there dual-mass? Thanx for awesome vids/ David, Sweden

[@scottycuk]

Because he is talking utter BS, it’s not smoother, just less issues

[@bavarianautosport]

Without driving the car, it's tough to make an accurate diagnosis. However, it does sound like the noise is coming from within the transmission, from your description. What fluid are you running in the transmission? Have you tried the RedLine MTL? See it on our site at bavauto.com . Another thought would be to try the Red Line 75w-90 fluid (it is OK to run this) to see if this changes the noise at all. If it does, you know that it is from within the transmission.

[@kris12211221]

I watched these vids before replacing the clutch in my 87 325, they were a big help, but for some reason the car wont start. just wondering if this could have anything to do with the sensors on the outside of the bell housing, I did have to remove them but I dont think they were damaged at all. I had called the number you provided but the service rep was less than helpful. Im hoping someone might be able to help me out, I just hope the same guy isnt in charge of answering the emails lol, thanx

[@bavarianautosport]

Unfortunately, we can't have every agent being a full 100% technician. However, we should have offered further assistance to you. Anyway, if you crossed the sensors and have then installed in the wrong positions, the engine will not run. Secondly, if the pin on the side of the flywheel was damaged, the position sensor will have nothing to read. Did you replace the flywheel, by chance?

[@bavarianautosport]

Well ..... if the head is too beat up to accept the Torx socket, at this point, there isn't much you can do besides pulling the engine and transmission so you can actually get to the bolt. You can try hammering on a regular 6-point socket (match one up with one of the removed bolts), as a last ditch effort. If you can get one on tightly, try to turn it by hand ... not with an air-tool.

[@Dicer328]

At 8:00 Otto is absolutely INCORRECT about using that tiny amount of rotational freedom to determine that the DMF is worn out. To prove it to you just search youtube for a video called "The LuK DMF - its function, diagnosis and repair " and go to 3:28 of that video to see what the internals look like. Keep in mind that this channel is about SELLING parts.

[@bavarianautosport]

In a general sense, yes it does. Your details will be a bit different, but the overall procedures will be quite similar.

[@bavarianautosport]

If the flywheel has play, as the one in the video did, you will find that the vehicle has a jerky feeling when starting out and when changing throttle application. This vehicle also had a surging feeling when driving at a constant speed, due to the flywheel surface bouncing back and forth at light loading.

[@bavarianautosport]

By strongest, do you mean most power? In this case, the S38 (as offered in the E34 M5) offers far more horsepower than the M50 (E36 325i, E34 525i, etc.)..

[@j.gtheautotech8455]

What glove brand do you use!! Those look like they dont tare easily

[@alexronn6400]

I love you for making this video.

[@bavarianautosport]

Yes, the disc is marked as to which side goes toward the engine or transmission.

[@danielbailey848]

Great video! I am doing the clutch assembly on my 2002 325ci and I was wondering if I needed to support the engine while removing the transmission. I see that your engine appears to just be moving freely. Thanks for your help!

[@CompCrasher86]

I like the pilot bearing tool used in this video (not the slide hammer type). Where can we find it?

[@AutmotiveProcedures]

Hi, I work on a lot of German cars and have seen a lot of these dual mass problems. We always recommend the upgrade to the 1 piece flywheel and I have one in my 2006 Jetta but I have noticed it has a very slight jerking feeling in 1st and 2nd gear when compared to a customer with a 2 piece. Have you personally noticed any roughness compared the the dual mass? It might just be me being picky

[@rr29871]

Hi, fantastic video, will get mine changed next month, I was only wondering what is that dioxide mechanical penetrant? I use wd40 professional, but I can bet this what you use I by far better 😁

[@mhknapp1]

Nice to recommend the Bentley manual - however Bentley doesn't have a manual for my car - 2007 BMW Z4M Roadster

[@Passionate747]

Excellent videos well explained thanks for posting them the videos are a great help.

[@oscarlamata5180]

One question....the rotary movement It had the dual-mass flywheel was good or not?...thanks

[@virusssB83]

nice video but wich bmw is this ?

[@shivankafroshy830]

Can you make a video for clutch and flywheel replacement for a 2006 E60 M5 ? or is it the same process as this video ? Thanks!

[@ilkinhamidov]

Hello team. Excellent work. Please advise: i got e46 m3 bmw. It has click noise coming from drivetrain during each gear change ( you can control the noise by clutch pedal) and rattling noise when you switch off the engine on neutral gear. However if you engage clutch during engine switch off the noise disappears. Any idea? Thanks.

[@liviudaniel5082]

great job ,video,big appreciation and like!thanks for share!

[@nolanhuajardo9385]

What if you took the locking plate off of the pressure plate before installing it?

[@grantflowers62]

I'm going to buy a single mass flywheel conversion kit for my 2001 Z3 3.0i and I was wondering about replacing the master cylinder if you're going to replace the slave cylinder anyway? Is that necessary? Otherwise, very informative video. Thanks

[@AustinTillison]

i accidentally removed the center locking plate in the pressure plate before installing it on the car. I'm having a very difficult time reinstalling the lock plate. is it even possible to reinstall? great video by the way!

[@FirstPlaceFilms]

same thing happened to me, you will need to press the pressure plate springs down, then reset the smaller springs with a screw driver and hammer, there are a few vids on how to do this, just look up how to reset it, and it should work.

[@arisnavarro]

I also removed the locking plate before i installed the pressure plate and i installed the pressure plate anyways because it was too difficult to reinstall the locking plate. Once I reinstalled my bell housing and slave cylinder, I tried pushing down on my clutch but it would only depress about 1 to 2 inches and hangs up. Now I need to pull everything apart again. Does anyone know if it is critical to remove this locking plate after install and not before? Is this why I am unable to depress my clutch? I just tried reinstalling the locking plate onto my old pressure plate using a large 2-jaw gear puller and a 3/4" x 1.5" x 1.5" piece of plywood for the pushing plate in the middle for the gear puller. i was successful! 😀... So now I'm going to pull everything apart again to try and reinstall the locking plate... Please someone let me know why my clutch does not depress and if it is really critical to reset the clutch with the locking plate... I don't want to have to pull my transmission again...

[@arisnavarro]

i ended up dropping my transmission again yesterday. when i looked at the pressure plate, all of the fingers were fully depressed which is why i could not push down on the clutch. i then pulled off the pressure plate and followed a video on how to reset a self adjusting clutch. i built a jig, reinstalled the locking plate in the middle of the pressure plate and then while i reinstalled the pressure plate onto the flywheel with the 6 hex bolts i had to compress the springs on the self adjusting mechanism as i torqued the bolts to 35 Nm. then i popped out the locking plate and put everything back together and installed my slave cylinder. i pressed on the clutch and YES. the clutch felt normal again... man... it's a totally different procedure when you install the oem self adjusting clutch on the e46.

[@Patryc]

looks easy

[@bavarianautosport]

Well ..... if the engine is running properly and smoothly, then the next probable cause may indeed be a very worn out dual mass flywheel. Typically, you would not have a shake at idle, due to a worn out DMF, but it is conceivable that a very loose one could cause an idle vibration.

[@MrCoreyCoreyCorey]

Mr. Arnold, thank you for the informative videos. I'm using them to replace my clutch. I'm at the point of trying to replace the carrier with the main seal. If I'm correct, the seal's horizontal face is rearward, so it's like a |_| facing the front of the vehicle? This makes it very difficult to slide it on without pinching a portion of it, similar to mounting a tire. Any advice? Engine oil for lube? I imagine this is a critical seal, and I've bound mine up in one portion a little bit, with the ribs pinched and protruding. I'm going to buy another seal and start over. Any advice would be appreciated! Thank you very much. PS - loved your drift pics in the newsletter.

[@MrCoreyCoreyCorey]

Upon further research, I was to have left the gasket on the white plastic guide. I removed the gasket and pressed it into the carrier, and it's bent back on itself when I tried fitting the carrier back onto the crank. I'd just like some advice the best way to install. Thanks again.

[@bavarianautosport]

Corey Cormier - lubricate the crank and the seal lips with oil. You have to be very careful installing a seal this big. Not only do you not want to pinch or roll the inner lip, but you also don't want to dislodge the radial spring that compresses the seal lips to the crank. Start the seal onto the crank at one area (say, for example, at 12-o'clock) - Then compress the seal downward (against the lip area at 12-o'clock) as you work the seal around the crank end clockwise, from 12-o'clock toward 3-o'click, etc.

[@MrCoreyCoreyCorey]

BavarianAuto thank you very much for the quick reply. .

[@MrCoreyCoreyCorey]

Corey Cormier to possibly help anyone else with the rear main seal, my replacement seal came on a plastic carrier. The first time I didn't realize it was meant to align with the engine output. How I had success was to drill a hole and set a screw in the old mounted seal and pull it free. Clean up the engine output, oil it and the new seal, align the white plastic carrier that the new seal is on with the engine output, and gently and evenly slide it into place. It was very easy this way, and you won't have to remove the carrier and mess with the oil pan gasket. Just my experience.

[@diakoahar]

it's just a amazing and simple video! thanks for uploading :)

[@maciejweber4256]

Can you please list all of those parts you have replaced? That would be kind.

[@andreicamp]

Thanks for this awesome video! I do have one question though. Do you need to support the engine in any way? I believe the E39, like my E36, has 2 mounts for the engine, and 2 for the gearbox. I just remember when I replaced the driveshaft I had to use a jack to support the gearbox. Thanks again!

[@carscoffeeandmischief]

This might be a dumb question; will this be somewhat the same for an 06 530i with an SMG transmission?

[@bavarianautosport]

For the most part, yes. You will be dealing with the SMG parts that operate the clutch and shifter hydraulically, but the transmission and clutch assemblies are pretty much the same.

[@ailarvadi958]

Hi, what kind of gasket sealer or maker did you use on the steel gasket and did you use any grease or anything on the new crank seal as well?

[@carslover3509]

great work

[@bavarianautosport]

tonycstech - The clutch disc should say either; engine side or transmission side, on one of the sides, someplace on the metal hub area. If you are using a German clutch, such as Sachs, this may be in German.

[@kimomed1988]

Should I renew the Bell Housing transmission bolts???

[@GlennKaler]

What is the part number for the Pilot Bearing Removal Tool? I went to bavauto and found the Slide Hammer Pilot Bearing Puller CTA Tools but not the one used in the video.

[@jasonschellberg2817]

Does the engine oil need to be drained when pulling the rear main seal? How high up is the oil level in the oil pan?

[@bavarianautosport]

The seal is above the oil level. No need to drain.

[@nuggex]

Why did you install the old dual mass flywheel?

[@lukey3507]

Hi, isn't the rear propshaft balanced and has to be marked up and put back in the same way it came off, otherwise you get a vibration at higher speeds.

[@johnnycarter6196]

Is that right? Does the propshaft needs to be fitted back on same marked position?

[@lukey3507]

@@johnnycarter6196 Yes, they're balanced. If it isn't marked and put back in same position you'll get a terrible rumble through the car as you accelerate up to speed. Usually from 35mph and upwards. It wears out your rear differential and gearbox if you ignore it. Not that you really can ignore it.

[@volvot5turbo]

Does the crankshaft position sensor need removing? Just got my 330d E46 back and it appears to be misfiring at high revs, juddering at high revs, chucking out clouds of black smoke when wide open throttle and also throwing the DDE light when hoofing in 3rd from low revs. I've tried everything else and now suspect the Crankshaft position sensor that wasn't removed during installation has got somewhat damaged? Also get mid section vibrations at low revs full throttle......

[@mohussain136]

will the tools and parts work for a diesel engine aswell

[@demoniacRACING]

Hi, ist there available solid fly wheel conversion kit for bmw E60 530d? and worth to fix it?

[@Ali-uv3dz]

how is the car driving/during shifting after changing the clutch do you hear some sound or do you feel anything

[@santi7638]

What’s the length of the extension to take out the top bolts of the transmission ?

[@MrFryfish]

there is not such length ... you have to use two extension with a flexible joint to get to it... or better try to get it out from above not from underneath the engine

[@Adam-hz1nv]

If you replace your clutch with a non-self adjusting one, does that mean you have to manually adjust it by taking the transmission out again?

[@bavarianautosport]

No, there are no adjustments (just as with older BMWs). Over the life of the clutch, you may notice a slight change in the clutch pedal engagement position, as the clutch disc wears. Most drivers never even notice this.

[@johnofcross]

BavarianAuto Isn't that what self adjusting clutches are for? Or are there performance issues with this?

[@volvot5turbo]

Is this necessary? Just had my flywheel done (E46 330D) and they didn't remove the sensor. Now I get dde light on, black smoke at high revs/WOT and juddering at high revs when this happens.......no codes on scanner though except for rail plausibility too high (too much fuel I suspect judging by black smoke). Tried everything else and now suspect timing is out. Tickover is fine though and normal driving appears ok. Slight vibration at tickover now (more like resonance). Thanks :-)

[@bulgarianscouser]

Hi, I have a E46 2004 320D M Sport, is the single mass flywheel+clutch kit available for it? Thanks in advance.

[@bavarianautosport]

Sorry for the delay in replying. Are you still having trouble with your clutch install?

[@PublicOwner]

bavarianauto, who BMW engine is the strongest - m50b25 or s38b36? thank you

[@tevin3316]

Nice video...

[@eugenebruno1481]

Hey, I just watched your video--which is very informative. I just learned something new. I have a problem, I purchased my 2003 BMW 325I (manual) 2yrs ago and it drove ok. But I have realized they hardly kept up with maintenance. But my problem is, my BMW does not drive like a BMW. It does not accelerate with power when I step on the gas; it feels like it struggles to move, like it drags. Basically, it does not move with power like BMW's are supposed to. What you guys know what is wrong with my BMW?

[@bavarianautosport]

Unfortunately, we really can't make any diagnosis suggestions with the very general info you've given, and not being able to drive the car. We would suggest that you seek out a technician who is familiar with these vehicles and can make some determinations based on knowledge of what it should be running like.

[@eugenebruno1481]

Thanks for the info.

[@robinzahnd7325]

if you drive about 40 mph, in 4th gear and you step on the gas, if the numbers of revolutions are raising and you dont drive faster then the clutch has probably slippage which means you have to replace it!

[@eugenebruno1481]

Ok, I will take a look at it.

[@bavarianautosport]

Eugene Bruno As RoBiN noted - if the what you are trying to describe fits this description, then yes, you do have a slipping clutch.

[@BrianFlomer]

I'm in the process of replacing my clutch but I can't get the transmission away from the input shaft. I'm pretty sure I took all the inverted torx off, but is there a hex bolt up there also? (someone told me they thought they saw one at the top). Also, Do you have to remove the starter on BMWs? Any info will help

[@Asank6969]

thank you very much

[@8NAYEEM]

good work

[@ranchoelrosario]

very nice vid......I have a question about a BMW 2000 328i I replaced the self adjusting clutch with a self adj clutch but now when car is running can NOT get it in gear ...only when is not running ..What did I did wrong ? please help I also replaced the master and slave cylinders thanks

[@bavarianautosport]

Assuming that all of the parts installed were the correct parts, you likely have not properly or fully bled the hydraulic fluid for the slave cylinder and there is air in the hydraulic system. We do offer a special tool to properly bleed the slave cylinder. The tool comes with instructions. See the link below: blog.bavauto.com/3229/%E2%80%9Ci-did-it%E2%80%9D-bleeding-the-bmw-clutch/

[@bavarianautosport]

In general, yes, your procedures will be very similar.

[@21497bmw]

What size Allen wrench do I need to use to take off the pressure plate bolts

[@TheNibbor]

im doing a clutch job on a e28 soon, and i was wondering, do i need to support the engine when i take the gearbox out?

[@yoshi1u2]

the engine has engine mounts holding it in so no bracing needed

[@TheNibbor]

+Yoshi1u2 will the engine mounts also prevent tilt? my fan hits the radiator otherwise

[@yoshi1u2]

+robbin hegeman well there not stiff mounts if the engine mounts are old there might be a little play you can put a jack stand under engine if its really sagging

[@joeyfischer2044]

hey guys i have a big question. I am pulling my clutch out of my old motor and want to swap to my new motor. it is SAC do i need to rest the SAC with the special tools or will it adjust by itself?

[@afhostie]

BavarianAuto Is there a mileage that we would want to do this to replace the rear main seal even if the clutch isn't slipping yet?

[@devontepowell70]

You guys put a new clutch on a worn flywheel

[@kRon1k_NY]

I noticed that too lol I was like, "WTF?"

[@Honzikponzik]

Yeah me to haha,and he was talking about it and then he puts the worn in 🤔🧐

[@golfdynasty]

they also used a LUK clutch set instead of the one that he talked so highly of lol

[@bobgoes7271]

It's all down to the customer...?

[@windmadness]

If you watched part 2 you wouldn’t write that comment.

[@Angeldenis1987]

So my 87 325es shakes when I shut it off. Time for a new flywheel maybe? Is it that easy to do this or you make it seem easy as hell? LOL.

[@bavarianautosport]

You can be sure that the clutch is a SAC and the flywheel is dual-mass.

[@bavarianautosport]

Brian Flomer - We can't reply directly to your comment as it was sent in via Google. The starter does need to be disconnected from the transmission bell-housing. You can leave the starter in place, but the two mounting bolts must be removed. If the transmission is moving but will not fully separate, we would say that either the starter is still bolted in or the small bolt on the shield plate is still in-place (on the passenger side, from the front). If the trans will not move at all, you likely still have a main mounting bolt to remove.

[@achristopher745]

Brian, if you have all bolts off (including the metal shield), the dowel pin in the starter may be the suspect. It can become corroded and can take a great deal of force to break loose. Spray some penetrating oil on it and use some extensions with a metal punch to push it from the rear toward the front of your car. Good luck!

[@bavarianautosport]

Adam Krick - Good input Adam. We've dealt with that!

[@achristopher745]

Hey Craig Bettridge, the starter is only attached to the transmision with two bolts that you remove on the transmission side. There's also a dowel that I mentioned in a comment that gave me a very difficult time. I took some sand paper to clean it up before reinstalling it. I'm not sure if you've ever heard of it or not, but www.realoem.com/bmw/select.do has very helpful diagrams specific to your BMW. Just punch in the last 6 characters of your VIN at the top and it's pretty easy from there.

[@cbettridge]

Adam Krick thank you for the link!! I noticed it after sticking my head right up in the drive shaft well.

[@donnieblingin7704]

Bavarian Autosport how much would a job like this cost on a e38 740il

[@oneminutefixed5003]

been driving for months with a worn out clutch :\ i'll have to replace it in the next 2 months, my biggest concern (besides the cost) is whatever problems may arise when removing that piece, my mechanic said i possibly had an oil leak into the clutch and that caused the clutch do slide in higher rpm. In case of an oil leak, will the seals and gasket paste be enough to solve the problme?

[@hooperwille]

Does this video apply also to E38 with manual transmission?

[@bigdaddy377able]

my friend also has an 85 325e bmw ,would the procedure be similar as well ?

[@joshgrami]

What happens if you accidentally remove the locking plate before putting it in the transmission...?

[@stewartdcampbell]

+J.A.Grami it will go out of adjustment possibly and need reset by compressing the fingers on the pressure plate and readjusting.

[@arisnavarro]

do not install the pressure plate without resetting the locking plate. the clutch will not work properly and you will need to pull the transmission again like i did...

[@pdhung88]

Hi Bavarian Autosport, My car e90 318d recently got a ticking sound and a shaking clutch pedal. Thought it was a worn clutch and flywheel, I had my mechanic to replace them both. However, the noise and vibration are still there. After battling with it for 1 week, my mechanic says that the crankshaft may have been knackered, or bent. He put a lever in the small space between the engine and the flywheel. When he push the lever to engine side, the (new) flywheel move a bit (from 90 degree to 100 or 110 degree v.s. the crankshaft). He said that it is because the crankshaft is bent, otherwise the flywheel would be held absolutely tight to the crankshaft and it shouldn't move at all. May I ask what is your opinion about this? I found it hard to believe that a crankshaft can be bent, and when I searched this problem on the internet, not so many posts about this (in fact, almost none). Maybe it is some loose flywheel bolt can cause the flywheel to move like that?

[@goognamgoognw6637]

interesting problem, i have what seems to be a DMF problem too on my 25k miles M3, i'm the only owner never drove it hard but there's always the possibility that some mechanic could have abuse it. I will never buy an expensive car again until there is electronic to log every millisecond of all drives (3D accel, RPM, throttle, everything) and fast analytic tools to determine how hard the car was driven so the owner can inspect immediately if a car was abused at the dealership and as a deterrent. About your problem ZF seems to say that most DMF deterioration are the result of other issues on the engine side not the DMF itself. I'll give you the link below but they don't list a bent crankshaft but they say "excessive crankshaft end float or lift", "crankshaft damper damage" and"camshaft wear". Scroll down past the dct paragraph to the dmf paragraph. autotechnician.co.uk/zf-dual-clutch/

[@buzila270587]

Maybe is just me but you were upgrading from dualmass to single mass and still used the old dualmass flywheel ? Hope my mecanic won't do that and charg me for flywheel ;)

[@ejpmotorsports5188]

Did you guys not watch part 2 orrrr...??

[@jrea424]

So.. A. Ask for the old parts.. say you want to look at them for interest or scrap them whatever And B. Watch part 2 dumb dumb

[@romanyamal1830]

How do I know if my car has a SAC? I have a 2011 328i coupe