Beall Tool's Wood Threader

On this week's show, I demonstrated the Beall Tool Company's wood threading kit.
If you haven't already, please consider liking and subscribing to the channel. While you are at it, don't forget to click the bell so that you don't miss notifications of future episodes of the program. As always, I want to thank you for stopping by the channel and taking the time to tune in to the show. It is very much appreciated.

[@buddhalovechild]

Really helpful. Glad you won the pool.

[@acutabove_woodworkings]

Glad that you found it helpful Keith. Thanks for tuning in and for the kind words on the show.

[@johnverkler3962]

Hello ,Woodthreaders! I know it's been 7 years ago. Another critical measurement is having the dowels the exact sizes needed. In the video, while turning the dowel, the crank end of the dowel was wobbling up and down while turning. That told me the dowel needed to be fractionally larger to fit the front guide hole ever so slightly tighter. It's not your fault! Dowel sizes vary in manufacture and also with humidity. Do NOT use oak dowels. The lines of pores will cause thread break off. Guess how I know this. I liked how you shut the router off to back the dowel out. I'll have to try that! Thank you.

[@acutabove_woodworkings]

Glad that you were able to take something positive away from the show John. Thanks for tuning in and for chiming in with your advice and thoughts. It's very much appreciated.

[@rayzor078]

Great Job... REALLY appreciate showing your "learning opportunities".

[@acutabove_woodworkings]

Glad that you liked it. Thanks for tuning in and for taking the time to leave your comment.

[@GKChandlerBooks]

The trial and error process you've demonstrated is essential for this kind of tool. Many thanks for taking the time to demonstrate your process to produce the end result. Nice kit.

[@acutabove_woodworkings]

You're very welcome Graeme. The trial and error of getting these threads right can be a pain in the butt. But once the trial and error is done, a dowel could be run through for each size to use as a setup block, eliminating the trial and error process and introducing repeatable results into the equation. Thanks for tuning in to the show. It is very much appreciated.

[@WigWagWorkshop]

I really enjoy these longer video's. I will have to look into this jig, I think it will be a great addition to my toy making projects. Thank You for sharing! -Steven

[@acutabove_woodworkings]

Some like the longer show, and some don't. You can't please everyone, but I'm glad that it pleases you. This jig really is quite neat. I enjoyed working with it. Thanks for taking the time to leave me a comment.

[@BKMakes]

Thanks for sharing, and I didn't mind the unboxing at all. Also appreciate you including your initial trials/tweaking. Its now coming off my list and into my shop

[@acutabove_woodworkings]

I hope that you enjoy the jig BK and that you are able to get plenty of use out of it. The larger sized thread jigs come with a "pattern" for making an adjustable stool. I recently showcased that stool on the show in a three part build series. If you are interested in viewing that series, it would give you a bit of an idea of a practical use for the threaded dowels. Part one of the series can be found here. kzbin.info/www/bejne/o2O6oXynjapmppo. Thanks for tuning in to the show. It's appreciated.

[@BKMakes]

kennyearrings1 Cool, I’ll check it out!

[@treasurepedlar]

Hello. I was hired by a woodworking supply company a few months ago and know nothing about nothing! We sell this line, and I found this video fabulously done for even me to understand what the threader is for and how it operates. Thank you!

[@acutabove_woodworkings]

You're very welcome Heather. I'm glad that the show was helpful to you and if you have any questions at all, please don't hesitate to ask. I would be more than happy to help you out if I can. Thanks for tuning in to the show.

[@Phenrica]

Bags of detail, very interesting tool. Good job 👍🏻

[@acutabove_woodworkings]

Glad that you enjoyed it. thanks for tuning in.

[@robertbrunston5406]

I did not know anyone make such a kit, very cool, thanks.

[@acutabove_woodworkings]

Thanks Robert. It is rather cool. Pricey, but cool. thanks for tuning in and taking the time to leave me a comment.

[@pfoster2338]

That was cool! Thanks for sharing that😀

[@acutabove_woodworkings]

If definitely is cool. Thanks for tuning in.

[@Goldchucker1]

Hi Kenny: As a retired machinist, I would like to offer up a suggestion. Thread your wood nut material first. Then cut your dowel material to fit the nut. The nut will most likely not vary in pitch diameter. Your dowel thread pitch will as you try to work toward a good fit. Your tap is set and won't change too much (depending on wood hardness). You know what I mean. Good video. Very handy tool. Thank you for posting. Chuck

[@acutabove_woodworkings]

Thanks for the advice Chuck. I'm sure that it will come in handy for many of the other viewers. Well, at least the ones who read the comments. LOL. Thanks for tuning in and for chiming in with your experience.

[@robertlipman8117]

Kenny ... I follow a number of KZbinrs who focus on woodworking -- some are good presenters and some not so. You have extraordinary skills at making KZbin videos on woodworking ... they make me (the viewer) wish you were my neighbor. Keep up the good work, Kenny -- you can be very proud of what you accomplish. Bobby

[@acutabove_woodworkings]

Well this comment just made my day Bobby. Thanks for tuning in to the show and taking the time to leave the kind words. It's very much appreciated.

[@Thom4123]

Very cool and possibilities are great thank you for the tutorial and information

[@acutabove_woodworkings]

You're very welcome Thom. Thanks for tuning in to the show and for taking the time to leave me a comment. It's appreciated.

[@chadlowrance3999]

never disappointed,another great video

[@acutabove_woodworkings]

Thanks Chad. I appreciate the kind words and the fact that you take the time to watch the show. Thanks for tuning in.

[@sailingeden9866]

Thanks for the video, it was very helpful.

[@acutabove_woodworkings]

Glad that you liked it. Thank you for tuning in.

[@sathancat]

Thanks so much for the video, this looks like a neat kit!

[@acutabove_woodworkings]

You're very welcome. I hope you enjoyed it. Thanks for tuning in to the show.

[@summerswoodworking]

excellent video Kenny! would love to have one of those for my shop!

[@acutabove_woodworkings]

Thanks for the kind words. It really is a cool jig and does an awesome job. A little finicky for the setup until you get used to it, but after that, it's great.

[@HobbyOrganist]

I own an 1869 piano style Melodion whose legs were attached using threaded 1-/4" diameter dowels threaded into blocks in the case, over time they no longer screwed in tight as the legs have specific rotated positions they have to be at to line up with the sides of the case, I wondered how they did these threads and assumed they used a lathe with an automatic feed, and a tap to do it. I was able to tighten the legs up cutting thick leather "washers" and that worked to snug them up nicely and in correct rotated positions. But a colleague has a similar instrument and apparently the threads on at least one of the legs is damaged enough the leg falls out if the case is lifted, so it would seem his only good option is buying one of these Beall 1-1/4" tools and making new dowels, and get the old ones out. I'm guessing those were plain dowels glued in and threaded only on the exposed length but never know!

[@acutabove_woodworkings]

It's hard to say how they were made. They had some pretty inventive ways of doing things back then and I'm sure that there has been other repairs in the 150 years that the Melodion has been in existence. The Bealle threader would definitely provide you with a way to make a repair. It just seems like a costly purchase for a "one and done" use. Good luck with your repair and thank you for tuning in and taking the time to leave your comments. It's truly appreciated.

[@pcorlis]

Ken, what a neat addition to your shop. Four tries doesn't seem too bad of a learning curve. After all you a trying to get two threaded pieces together. I am looking forward to seeing what projects you come up with to use the kit. If I can think of any ideas to pass along I will let you know. Paul / paulsmessyworkshop

[@acutabove_woodworkings]

Thanks for the kind words Paul and if you come up with any ideas, definitely pass them along. I'd love to hear them. Thanks for tuning in again this week.

[@thegauvinator3075]

excellent tutorial

[@acutabove_woodworkings]

Thanks for the kind words. I'm glad you liked it. Thanks for tuning in.

[@Kenfitzpat]

Nice video, I don’t usually watch vids that are over 15 mins anymore because they seem to drag and the extra time doesn’t add to the explanation. I watched yours because I have a Beall kit sitting on a shelf that I purchased probably 10 years ago and haven’t used it. I thought I would when I bought it but never got around to setting it up. I have to say that your vid was precise and to the point. I enjoyed it very much and I intend on setting mine up today. I look forward to your projects using the kit. Thanks for sharing.

[@acutabove_woodworkings]

Well thank you for the very kind words on the show Ken. I truly appreciated them and was glad to hear that show was useful and enjoyable to you. Good luck with dusting off and getting your jig set up. It really is an easy to use unit and I don't see you having any problems with it. If you have any questions along the way, please don't hesitate to ask and I would be more than happy to help if I can. Thanks for tuning in to the show.

[@barryroberts6470]

That was one great episode Kenny, very informative and well shown. At one stage when you winding up that handle, i thought it was going to take off ha ha. I didn't know they did a thread cutting jig for wood, thought it was all done on the lathe, i did know they did one for metal as i used one years ago in school. Anyway great video as always from you. TC my Friend and Regards to the Family. Barry (ENG)

[@acutabove_woodworkings]

Thanks Barry. This jig is a blast to use and I had a really fun day playing around with it. Nice and light for a project and no chance of overdoing it. LOL. Thanks for tuning in again this week.

[@davidgaleski5303]

thank you interesting tools

[@acutabove_woodworkings]

You are very welcome. Thank you for tuning in to the show and for taking the time to leave me a comment.

[@jameshutson9384]

I have just found your show, Kenny. I have only been on a computer for a year now and found some amazing videos. Yours was one of them. I have a Beall wood threader I bought many years ago. It is not like yours, it has a plastic base instead of wood. I bought a palm router to put on it permanently. It works really great and I don't have to set it up any more. I only have the three sizes like you have and would like to get the larger ones but I can't seem to find just the larger ones for sale by themselves. I guess I'll have to buy the larger kit. Which is OK because I think some of the taps are getting a little dull. It was a great video, I enjoyed it very much. I'll be watching more in the future. You got another fan.

[@acutabove_woodworkings]

Glad to hear that you found my channel James. Great to have you aboard as a viewer. If at any point, you have any questions about any of the programs, please don't hesitate to ask and I would be more than happy to help if I can. Thanks for tuning in to the show.

[@seanpatterson1609]

Thank you for taking the time to document and share what you've learned from this kit, including your own learning process. This video is very helpful. One small suggestion depending on your time and editing skill, you may be able to convey the same detail with speeding up or shortening the viewing time when using the router - unless of course there's something vital in that process. It makes it easier on listeners ears and may save a little viewing time. Again, thanks for your work and presentation.

[@acutabove_woodworkings]

There is no way for me to edit this show any further than it already has been edited Sean as it has been posted now. The newer episodes of my show have (for the most part) been whittled down and reduced to an average length of about 15-20minutes. Thanks for the kind words on the show and for the suggestion. Thank you also, for tuning in. I appreciate the support.

[@seanpatterson1609]

@@acutabove_woodworkings thanks for the reply. This is the first video of yours that I've seen, but I'm subscribed now and look forward to more.

[@acutabove_woodworkings]

@@seanpatterson1609 Thanks for the sub. Friday videos are usually woodworking related and the Tuesday segment of the show is basically whatever strikes me at the time. It can be about anything really. I hope you enjoy the channel and I look forward to your future comments on the show

[@sigaso28]

Or...or... You could just skip ahead....

[@garymccoy2888]

Just looked it up on Amazon....$140.00. I'd say it a bit "pricey ". Depends on how much you would use it. Great video Kenny. Glad to have you back.

[@acutabove_woodworkings]

I wasn't kidding when I said pricey. I've wanted one of these for several years but just couldn't justify the price. When I won the football pool at work, I decided that I would call it "found money" and purchase the kit. Glad I did and even more glad that the money didn't come out of my pocket. Thanks for the kind words on my return. I will try to keep a regular pace of show, but obviously, my health comes first.

[@artisanchisel]

Thanks Kenny, would you mind telling me about the device that you are using to put into the back of your vice to maintaining the opening ? Looks to be some sort of shims , is it a purchased item or a homemade ?

[@thedivinehammerswoodworks1895]

I need to get one of those kits, I have a few projects that I need some wooden screws and nuts. I had a thought while watching, once you find the correct height for your router, why not make a block of wood the same height of the distance between your router motors bottom and the base plate, so you just have to stick the block in between and lower the motor down till it touch the motors bottom. would give you a fast easy setup for the next time. great video as usual Kenny. Guessing you got it through Lee Valley tools.

[@acutabove_woodworkings]

That's a great suggestion!!! Nothing quite like using a setup block to make the setup that much more painless. Thanks for the suggestion. (and yes, I got it from Lee Valley.....where else?) Thanks for tuning in.

[@BobStCyr]

Since the outside thread has less chance for adjustment why wouldn't you cut it first then cut the outside thread and adjust it to get a nice smooth reasonably tight fit - turns smoothly, not too hard but no wobble. I can see this as a great tool for building shop fixtures, jigs, clamps - thanks for the video - I think I'll get one!

[@acutabove_woodworkings]

There is always more than one way to do things in woodworking Bob and if cutting the outside thread first is your preferred method, who am I to disagree? Thanks for tuning in to the show and for chiming in with your thoughts. Good luck with your jig. I hope you like it and get plenty of use out of it.

[@BrentDaughertyMe]

I'm curious, how did you attach the head of the bolt to the threaded dowl?

[@acutabove_woodworkings]

After the threads were cut, the shape of the "bolt head" was cut out and a hole was drilled with a forstner bit that matched the diameter of the dowel. A small section of dowel was left unthreaded and that was glued into the hole drilled in the head. I hope this helps Brent. Thanks for tuning in.

[@briangriffiths937]

Great video as usual Kenny. Interesting product too, not sure if I would purchase one, but who knows, one day I might. Was wondering if it would be better to make the nut first, as you have no adjustment with tapping the hole, then make the bolt part fit the tapped hole, might even get narrower nuts to fit better. :) One application for this that jumped out at me, was making a wooden vise, although I'm sure it can be used for much more than that. As for the length of videos, the longer the better as far as I'm concerned, too much information is always better than not enough.

[@acutabove_woodworkings]

Thanks Brian. Making the nut first would definitely give you a reference point for the router depth adjustment. Good call. As far as the wooden vise goes.......that's one of my show ideas. I just have to figure out the body of the vise. Shhhhhh, don't tell anyone. (no one ever read these comments anyway. LOL) Anyway, it took me years to get this jig and I'm glad that I finally did. Thanks for tuning in again this week.

[@dmoss8928]

Got another question for you if you don’t mind.. I got some maple dowels from Beall and I’m getting pretty good flat theads but the bolt will go about half in the nut and stop you can’t turn it any more. It seems the sharper the threads are the better the nut will turn but I know know sharp threads are bad. Any advice?

[@acutabove_woodworkings]

Hi David. The first thing that I would suggest (and I'm sure that you've already done this) is to make sure that your dowel is perfect straight. Even the slightest warp can affect the way that the nut screws on to the bolt. I don't think that is your problem however. I think that you are making your flat area too large on the top of each thread. When I look at my threads, they almost look pointed but when you look closer, there is a slight area of flat on the top of each one. The total area of flat on the thread is a small percentage and only takes up about 1/6 of what the threads total area is. Try reducing your thread's flat areas by lowering your bit just slightly and taking another pass in the jig. I wish that youtube would allow photos to be posted in these comments so that I could show you what I mean. If you aren't sure what I'm talking about, drop me a message on the channel's Facebook page and I will be sure to take a picture and send it to you so that you can see the size of the thread's flat spots. I hope this helps. facebook.com/kennyearrings1/

[@dmoss8928]

Awesome thanks for the help... I went ahead and sent you a message on facebook... Moody Moss

[@dmoss8928]

Question for you... i got my kit in and I bought some 1 inch dowels from Home Depot Pine and Oak well the Pine is to big and won't fit the inserts but the Oak does.. I have a big plunge dewalt router but it won't work so I used my Ryobi trim battery router and I get a ton of chipping with no perfect threads, You think its due to my trim router not begin strong enough for the oak dowel?

[@acutabove_woodworkings]

I don't think that the trim router has anything to do with it. There should be plenty of power for making the threads. My suggestion is to slow down your feed rate of the dowels that you are feeding into the insert. Turning it too fast in the jig can cause it to chip out. Also, if your router is variable speed, crank the speed up to its highest setting. You also may be taking too big of a bite with the router by having your bit too low. Try raising your bit up a bit as well. Let me know how this works out. There is a learning curve here but I'm sure that you will get it. As for the size of the dowels, now you know why I take my callipers to the big box stores when purchasing dowels there. There is a reason that I make my own.

[@dmoss8928]

I will check mu router for the speed adjustments. I also read that Oak is know for splittering not sure how true that is but I may have to try a different type of wood. I will let you know tho

[@walterrider9600]

thank you . would not a tap and die do the same ? i have never use my tap and dies on wood ?

[@acutabove_woodworkings]

Hey there Walter. I really don't know the answer to your question in this case as I have never tried it either. I do know that the taps in the kit are much more course than the tap in my tap and di set. I would think that they may not cut the dowel as well but there is only one way to find out. Thanks for tuning in again this week and for leaving me a comment. I appreciate it.

[@walterrider9600]

you are welcome. i'll try too at least worth a try ..sadly i don't remember how the calculate the straight depth of threads any more. that would of been helpful on setting up the router bit . might be able to find it online ??

[@acutabove_woodworkings]

I'll have to look it up.

[@artconnolly9519]

Justin Maxwell is the best wood threader this side of the Mississippi !

[@acutabove_woodworkings]

I haven't a clue what you are talking about. Thanks for tuning in.

[@lestergrayson3049]

I don't either but you never know till you try it

[@orange12v]

As you have some thread depth adjustment on your bolt thread you should make your nut first and use it as a fit guild when making your bolt thread

[@acutabove_woodworkings]

Someone else also made the exact same comment and I think it is an awesome idea. Thanks for posting it. I did say that it was my first experience with this particular jig and any and all input is welcome. Thanks for taking the time to leave me a comment. It's appreciated.

[@walterrider9600]

kenny i tried one of my old dies 1/2 -13 did not work sigh all ways something i even put a long bevel at the start . sadly it was a hex nut style maybe a regular die / stock one would work have not tried one of my taps yet will let you know .

[@acutabove_woodworkings]

I compared the wood taps to my regular tap set and the cutters are very different. The regular tap set have teeth that are more shallow and when drilling the hole, you need to drill a hole that is much closer to the tap size than with the wooden taps. The teeth on the wooden taps are much deeper and are more like little chisels than they are like teeth. You need to leave 1/8" of material in the wood in order to give the wooden tap something to bit into. Seems to me, that the two different taps are definitely two very different animals and one is not designed to be interchangeable with the other. I'm looking forward to hearing what your results are anyway. Thanks for testing this out.

[@walterrider9600]

thank you . sad to say it just won't work on wood yup wood works differently . driving me nuts . i am a learning this hear wood stuff lol not quite the same thing . i have used high speed tool bit on all sorts of metal . so shoot its just wood oh knot in the pine board no problem right eeeekk killed my jointer knives sob and me with no tool and cutter grinder . would of fixed it no time right . i will learn thank you kenny

[@acutabove_woodworkings]

If you have any questions Walter, feel free to ask.

[@walterrider9600]

thank you i will

[@dmoss8928]

Where do you buy your dowels and do you put an finish on the end product?

[@acutabove_woodworkings]

Good day David. There are many answers to this question because for the most part, I make my own dowels from sizes 3/16-1/2" with the dowel making jig that I've posted earlier on this channel. For sizes larger than 1/2" I usually just visit my local big box store and bring callipers with me to verify sizes. Another source for larger dowels is a local lumber mills as some of them carry dowels as well. As for the finish, I have always left these threaded rods natural and not attempted a finish although if you wanted to finish them that would be fine, you just have to be sure that the finish is completely dry before attempting to use them in a project. I hope this helps.

[@dmoss8928]

Thanks for the quick reply and for the video. I really don't need this kit but for some reason after watching your video it want one hahaha... I was reading on Bealls site that your have to be really picky about your dowels due to the high moisture content, so I prolly couldn't just go out to lowes or home depot and buy a dowel and it work right huh? One more question if i decide late to go to with the bigger inserts (1 1/4 and 1 1/2) will they fit in the jig that comes with the smaller inserts?

[@acutabove_woodworkings]

For starters David, I've never had a problem using dowels from Home Depot or Lowes for these threads. Moisture has never been an issue and if you are concerned about moisture then you can always take a moisture meter with you to the store as well as your callipers to test if they are dry. When ordering the larger size kits, they comes with their own board for the insert and the holes for the smaller sized threads and the larger sized threads are different. Now Beall may have changed this design since I bought my unit but when I purchased mine, the smaller inserts were not compatible with the larger ones.

[@dmoss8928]

Perfect I'm going to order mine now off amazon with 2 day shipping.... I guess you use maple dowels in the video right and maple for the nuts right?

[@acutabove_woodworkings]

That's correct David. I still have that exact one from the show and it sits on my desk. Sometimes I just take it down and spin the nut on the bolts just to pass the time away. Strange I know, but it's very relaxing. ha ha ha ha ha ha ha ha. If you have any other questions, please don't hesitate.

[@0607dell]

You my try using CA glue on the threads. Thanks Jerry

[@acutabove_woodworkings]

Would that be like the woodworker's lok-tite? Thanks for tuning in.

[@Tinmouser]

"Take it for a spin...". "Screw it up". Lots of yuks heheh Like the jig. I can see it being really useful in custom clamps and fasteners. Perhaps something for table saw sleds etc. or perhaps the ultra keen wood workers who make their own machines (bandsaws/table saws) Aside from the customizations, what would you say are the benefits over epoxy fastened threaded rod and threaded inserts? Great video! Thanks.

[@acutabove_woodworkings]

Thanks Tom. I really don't see a benefit in this case. Using epoxy to fasten in threaded rod and using threaded inserts has it's place in the woodworking world but eventually, the softer wood around the fasteners will fail or break down. That is just the nature of the beast. With wooden hardware such as threaded rod and nuts etc, there is no worry about the material around the fastener breaking down but instead, the hardware itself will wear. Both have their eventual faults and neither fault is avoidable. The wooden version, in this scenario, just gives another way to get the same results without having to rely on steel fasteners. If you are one of those people who don't like using metal in a woodworking project (unless completely necessary) then this kit provides you with a method to get rid of even more steel fastening and adjusting devices. Benefits? Probably not. Options? Definitely. Thanks for tuning in to the show and for the question. Definitely makes you think outside of the box.

[@Tinmouser]

kennyearrings1 noticed further down a viewer mentioned toys. That made me think. The very last thing you want is metal around toddlers. I was wondering if wood movement would be a problem in rods and bolts? I know diddly about metal but I do like the flexibility you get from being able to form your own fasteners. Looking forward to the "secret" projects to come. Take it easy

[@acutabove_woodworkings]

I really don't think that wood movement would play a huge part in these particular pieces. Just my theory though.

[@wolfkotenberg1840]

" screwone up " Funny !

[@acutabove_woodworkings]

Glad you enjoyed it. Thanks for tuning in.

[@davidgaleski5303]

it helps ME

[@acutabove_woodworkings]

Glad you liked the show David.

[@frankingram3382]

Great video Ken. Out of the football money did you spend any of it on the "good wife?" Now, if the answer is no, better not let her know how much that kit cost. God Bless my friend.

[@acutabove_woodworkings]

Thanks Frank. I never spent any of the football money on the Mrs, but I have no problems spending any other money on her anytime she likes. Thanks for tuning in again this week.

[@TheWoodCrafter1]

Thanks for sharing this, by the way the thread was out of focus most of the time

[@acutabove_woodworkings]

You're very welcome. I'm aware that the thread was out of focus but with auto focus on some cameras it happens sometimes. Thanks for tuning in.

[@0607dell]

Keeps the threads from breaking

[@acutabove_woodworkings]

Good call Jerry. I'll have to give that a try.

[@lestergrayson3049]

You need a rod with a flat side to set the depth of the router

[@acutabove_woodworkings]

That would work for one size of thread but you would need one for each thread size I would think. Good idea though. Thanks for tuning in.

[@lestergrayson3049]

You would just have to make one for each

[@acutabove_woodworkings]

I agree Lester and I think it's a great idea. Thanks for suggesting it.

[@lestergrayson3049]

Your welcome I hope it works lol

[@acutabove_woodworkings]

I don't see any reason for it not to work Lester. The dowel could be stepped so that multiple sizes would be able to be placed on one dowel. Seems logical to me.

[@dgramsz2146]

$140.00 and it doesn't come with a tap handle? Wow!

[@acutabove_woodworkings]

I kind of questioned that myself but I have to say that I enjoyed making my own. Oh, and of course, they offer one for an extra cost on their website. Naturally.

[@HoferAdam-xz9xz]

Metric

[@acutabove_woodworkings]

I don't make the tools and these ones are gauged in Imperial measures. Thanks for tuning in.

[@HoferAdam-xz9xz]

@@acutabove_woodworkings 👍