Beer engine full service

[@anthonybates6068]

RLBS Ltd sell a seal kit for these - great video cheers

[@mtb1340]

Thanks for watching and thanks for letting me know.

[@CreweWolfCraft]

Very good info video for stripping the engines down and I'm glad the silicon worked for you Cheers

[@glenthumwood7602]

Hi, I have found a 3/8" x 3/4" x 1/4" nitrile (foodsafe) oil seal, on ebay for the cylinder top seal. It has been working with no sign of leakage for some time now. You are correct to say that spares are difficult to find, but as you have shown with your silicone diaphragm, a bit of thinking outside the box, often works. Hope this is helpful

[@mtb1340]

Thanks for the update, do you have a link?

[@glenthumwood7602]

It is designed for a rotary movement shaft, but because of the low speed, it works fine with linear movement

[@Spacechicken123]

Yes I have had to order a 38mm X 51mm X 7mm rotary seal and that seems to work fine

[@Steve-th9ds]

Hi mate great video lots of information on my setup I have a demand valve and then the pump, but for some strange reason I’ll keep getting the constant drip out of the Swan neck. I don’t think it’s the diaphragm as I’m able to pull steriliser water through. No problem, but when I tried with beer it just had a constant drip thanks any help would be great

[@mtb1340]

Hi Steve, is the beer carbonated or is it hot as the pressure will force it past the diaphragm. Try cooling the beer down.

[@davegaskell7680]

Excellent video. Many thanks for sharing. Our local village hall bought a second hand beer engine a year or so ago which looks very similar to the one in this video. We haven't had the confidence to dismantle it - we just cleaned up the outside and sterilised the insides before using it. It has been working fine so far but, this week, has developed an issue whereby the pump "sucks back" the beer from the glass when the handle is returned to the vertical position after each pull. We can get round this in the short term by moving the glass down, away from the swan neck each time the handle is returned to vertical, and then putting the glass back when the initial output of air has been ejected on the pull down again but it would be nice to solve the problem. I do feel confident enough to attempt to dismantle the pump having seen your video but does the problem I've described sound like it could be the diaphragm or should I be looking for something else being the cause. Thanks again

[@mtb1340]

Hi Dave, thanks for the comments. The pump has two working valves to help pump beer, the diaphragm draws the beer up and then there's the none return valve which prevents the beer dropping back to the keg. In my case once I primed the pump beyond the none return valve my pump would work. I suggest looking at the none return valve first and you should find it at the bottom of the pump where the beer line connects to the pump. It should only have a spring and a ball inside with rings to help seal. Hope this helps.

[@glenthumwood7602]

This is the seal for a 1/2 pt. Pull pump, not sure if it is the same for a 4 pull.

[@saveoon]

I have questions I’ve been scouring the internet to find so I’d rather not do the counter pressure method for filling the kegs because I am limited to funds so I was wondering if the kegs could be depressurized disassembled filled then reassembled and have it’s same function? I was also wondering if the function could work with a thicker liquid and not just beer would love to hear back from you

[@mtb1340]

Hi Sayvon, not sure how thick the liquid you want to pass through it but all things have there limits, I guess you will have to increase the pressure to force the thicker liquid through. For the other question, once you've removed the valve you can add C02 to the keg as this is heavier than air so in turn will force the air out of the keg, then by filling it with your liquid should keep it good. Hope that helps.

[@saveoon]

@@mtb1340 this helped plenty and very insightful thank you