Beginner’s Guide to Buying your FIRST Hand Plane(s) - what to look for and what to avoid

This is a beginner’s guide to buying hand planes. What to look for and what to avoid. We also go into detail about some features you may want included on your new-to-you hand plane.
Feedback welcome if you agree or disagree!
#handplane; #stanley; #vintagetools; #bedrock

[@martinhawrylkiewicz2025]

Great informative vid! I recently found a vintage #4 hand plane in an antique shop for $12 in great condition with very little rust...had Eclipse stamped on the iron, rosewood tote, and knob, black bed with C72 stamped under the frog, Made in USA. Sone people have said that it was made by Stanley during the Great Depression.

[@justplanefun]

Sounds interesting. I’d have to see pics to verify but it sure sounds like it could be Stanley made

[@roberte.wilson5213]

I have a collection of tools. Lots of chisels, saws, handplanes and many other odds and ends. I just buy them cheap and restore them. Been told i should only restore whatever i use but i use them all. Anything that is trash i make into a scrub plane or mod to fit my needs.

[@doyalkrishna5656]

That was an awesome phenomenal video. Extremely solid and informative. I’ll be paying a lot more attention to your channel. Excited to watch your other videos

[@justplanefun]

I dig it! Thank you 🙏🏻

[@jcsrst]

I bought a Veritas low angle jack plane as my first "real" plane. I love it but as I've gone further down the rabbit hole, I've embraced the vintage Stanleys. I have now restored one and and restomodded another, both Type 10 No. 6's. The restored one is a wonderful tool and has become my go to for jointing. I do think they are more fidbdley for a beginner so the Veritas are much more user friendly for starting out and they do work very well. Love the channel BTW!!

[@justplanefun]

Thank you! If you ever need any parts, you know where to look!

[@martinrwolfe]

If you don't have the budget for a Veritas a modern Stanley Sweathart No.62 is a good starter. The one thing to be aware of in the low angle planes and all Veritas bench planes is you are deealing with a Noris style adjuster and not a Bailey style one. With regards to restorations apart from finishing widening the mouth as I ended up changing the iron I have a type 14 Stanley No.5½ type 14. Untill I finish widening the mouth it can only be used for smoothing operations rather than the full range of tasks that a jack plane does.

[@wj8108]

I’ve been woodworking for a few years and have tried garbage planes from the hardware store and never had any luck. Just picked up a type 6 #6 Stanley and love it. Makes cleaning up my table glue ups so much better. Thanks for all the info. Learning a lot. Great resource.

[@justplanefun]

That’s outstanding! I’m glad you found the video helpful. Let me know if you have any specific questions, maybe I can help. Be sure to check out some of my other videos if you haven’t already done so!

[@wj8108]

How much for a good #4 worker?#5 worker and #5 1/2 worker? Type 10 - 19 left me you said. things like matching blades don’t really matter to me.

[@philipmadden2577]

Great video. My first hand plane was a LN #5 and it is obviously fantastic. But it also really helped me know "what right looks like" on a bench plane so all my additional planes have been old Stanleys, Millers Falls, etc. and the LN has helped me understand how the parts fit together, how the adjustments should work, etc.

[@jonesey1981]

Fantastic information here that I really didn’t see mentioned in a lot of the other videos that I watched on similar subject matter. Thanks so much for your time and wisdom you got a sub!

[@justplanefun]

I really appreciate you watching! Hope you got some helpful tips from the video. One of these days I should do a follow-up video for this one

[@DennisFriedman]

In addition to what I said earlier, under the frog that was called at the base on my hand plane were the two screws are were the Frog bolts down is called a Sergeant makes on the top of the blade it saws Fulton warranted under that it says B?

[@justplanefun]

Shoot me some pics to [e-mail] Sargent made Fulton planes. B casting marks are typically associated with what we now call Type 8 Stanley planes

[@charitiekbyrd1]

Great video, thank you! I am looking to get my first hand plane from you in fact. You have taught me a bit, I've learned a lot from Rex Kruegers videos about fixing and using them. You showed me a bit about buying them and what to watch out for so a big thank you for that. You have definitely earned a like and a subscription for the fact that you are helping people find good quality hand planes. I will also be purchasing soon and I will let you know my thoughts and experiences with it but I'm guessing I will be happy with it based on how helpful you are in your videos. Stay safe and have fun 💯😁

[@justplanefun]

Let me know how that plane is working out for you!

[@charitiekbyrd1]

@@justplanefun been busy with a project and haven't gotten to it yet but I will let you know for sure.

[@martinhawrylkiewicz2025]

Great vid full of good info. I recently found an antique #4 hand plane in an antique store for $12 in very good shaoe with minimal rust. It has Eclipse stamed on the iron, Made in USA on the bed, C72 stamped on the bed under the frog. Some people have said that this plane was made during the Great Depression in 1930's by Stanley Defiance line.

[@justplanefun]

The “C72” in the bed makes me think it may be later. I’m used to seeing that kind of casting mark on planes from the 1940s and later. Feel free to email me some pics to [e-mail]

[@Handcarvedbyrandy]

I have a soft spot for Miller's Falls tools of a certain vintage because my grandfather had a lot of them. I have several Crafstman planes that were made by them too and I have no problem recommending them.

[@justplanefun]

Millers Falls made a great plane! I’ll always be partial to Stanley but there’s no denying that they had some solid competition in the hand plane game

[@Handcarvedbyrandy]

@@justplanefun I have a couple of Miller's Falls planes, several egg-beater drills, a bit brace and carving chisels from them and they're all great. I have two Craftsman planes and a set of lathe tools made by them and those are great too. Actually I have a Craftsman smoother (made by Miller's Falls) that's such a joy to use that I can even forgive it for having plastic handles.

[@slowburnwoodworks7626]

Going to check out a stash of planes for sale in a few days and wanted some guidance. Thank you!

[@justplanefun]

Good luck! Let me know how it goes

[@slowburnwoodworks7626]

@justplanefun went well...I think. Lol Got a type 11 no. 6 in great condition, what seems to be an old Sargent 409(not original breaker or iron), a little Stanley Sweet Heart block plane, and a 26" Diston saw for 80 bucks. I don't feel like I got dooped, but I am still new to this, soooo😬

[@toddpommier6205]

Great video. Very informative. I feel like I gained enough knowledge to make a reasonably informed decision and avoid making a big mistake. Thank you for sharing your expertise!

[@justplanefun]

I’m glad you liked it! Let me know how it goes when you go out hunting for a plane or 5

[@darindalessio2326]

“I’m going to favour Stanley because, that’s my jam” Hell yeah!!

[@peterjohnston8507]

Great stuff. Middle plane

[@justplanefun]

Thank you 🙏🏻

[@1romcat]

I’ll go Veritas thanks. Have a nice collection of 4’s. Will keep the type 13 sell the others for cash for a Veritas 5 1/4W. Make a Krenov Jointer for a few longer projects…. Enjoy your videos particularly the #78 series. You don’t mention Record much either… There are tool makers outside the US btw. Cheers, Jeff🇨🇦🇺🇸

[@justplanefun]

The reason I don’t talk about Record planes much is because I don’t see them very often around here. There are a few folks in the US who collect and/or use them but they don’t show up in Virginia very often, for whatever reason

[@1romcat]

@@justplanefun Hey Michael, been to Virginia several times when I lived in NJ. Back home in Canada now, and see lots of Record, not as much as Stanley but a lot. Jeff

[@kylemurdoc]

Great video now my first user hand plane has some collectability to it. His parts division was able to square me away with the period correct blade and chipper easily beat searching the listings on E-bay with uncertainty for more coin. Thanks

[@justplanefun]

Thanks! I’m glad it worked out as we hoped

[@petersydow4002]

O ,look another handplane addict! Just like me hopefully Your channel grows quickly !

[@justplanefun]

Thanks! I’m trying to offer something different from the many, many other hand tool KZbin channels. I’m putting that parts spin on it!

[@petersydow4002]

@@justplanefun Maybe in the future You will want to expand into transition planes ,but that market is minimal however if You put together kits for building wooden planes that is maybe much larger market.Those are my thoughts maybe wrong ,but maybe worth a try.

[@madeinyorkshire2203]

Great video! Thanks for all the info

[@justplanefun]

Thanks for watching!

[@billedgar297]

Thanks for sharing. Well done. 👍

[@justplanefun]

Thanks Bill!

[@Anna_and_Tiger]

👍🐯👍, learned sometingz today thanks for sharing.

[@justplanefun]

Thanks for watching!

[@jeffarmstrong9324]

Informative video for us newbs! I have a Great Neck N.I.B. That’s very close to a Stanley #4 and wondered what your thoughts are on it?

[@justplanefun]

Great Neck isn’t typically a good name in the hand plane world, at least not from what I’ve seen 😬

[@Malba1776]

Thanx for the video it was very helpful on what to look for, quick question, corrugated or smooyh bottom ??????

[@justplanefun]

It’s definitely 100% a personal preference. A corrugated sole is easier to to flatten (if you’re into that kind of thing) but the corrugations tend to get gummed up with shavings, especially if you use wax. Smooth soles are just soles that didn’t get finished at the factory 😅 I personally prefer a corrugated sole but that’s “solely” because that’s what I started with.

[@Heseblesens]

As always - a LOT of useful info and a good history lesson too! Thank you for sharing your knowledge with us Sir! I have heard that the collectors seem to favor planes with corrugated sole and I have been wondering why that is? Personally I am a user with a maybe too big fascination for vintage tools and on planes I do not like the corrugated sole at all. Being from Europe I sadly don't see too many US made Stanleys but the ones made in England has served me well so far.

[@justplanefun]

I think collectors sometimes lean toward corrugated soles solely because in some cases the Cs are less common - the No2c and the No5 1/4c are a couple of prime examples. For users, there seems to be a fairly even split. For lots of folks it’s an either or and they don’t care for the other camp

[@JoesStyle]

@@justplanefun I am not sure about collectors, but from what I have learned that the reason for them is that they are easier to slide across the work piece because there is less surface area in contact with the wood and has less friction. The reason most think that the solid surface is better is for things like edge work or something where the grooves could affect the direction of travel.

[@justplanefun]

@@JoesStyle the myth of less surface area / less friction was mostly a marketing gimmick by Stanley to sell more hand planes. They are easier to flatten though, for the folks who are into lapping a sole until it’s flat flat

[@martinhawrylkiewicz2025]

Just wondering what is your favorite Stanley #4 hand plane? If you could only pick one....

[@justplanefun]

I’m a type 11 guy so my favorite Stanley No4 is the style with 3 patent dates behind the frog, a low knob, and a small brass adjuster. My favorite overall no4 is the bronze Lie Nielsen. It seems odd since I’m a vintage tool guy but it’s tough to beat a Lie Nielsen!

[@CharlesBushPhotography]

Great info brother! Wish this were around when I was starting out.

[@reticuluminfirma9407]

My first non-block plane was a pexto. It now sits in my drawer and stares jealously at my baileys and only comes out when I need glue scraped or planed off.

[@justplanefun]

That’s outstanding that you’ve kept it and found a use for it. I had a similar experience with a lower-end block plane early on. Fortunately the blade was ridiculously sharp when I got it so I was able to really make some moves with it from the very beginning

[@oldmantwofour5561]

I have a Kobalt block plane with an adjustable mouth. I flattened the bottom, sharpened the iron and adjusted the mouth. Still going strong. Great for small jobs.

[@1romcat]

Are the solid yolks interchangeable with the split yokes on some type 19/20 planes? Jeff

[@jimfarrell3157]

Wow An amazing amount of information in such a short time. I only wish I had this for reference when I started working with wood 50 years ago. jim

[@justplanefun]

You nailed it - that’s exactly what I’m trying to focus on - making the type of content I wish I had access to when I first started out

[@flightofthunder7274]

Hi JPF, I wanted to know what your take on the cordovan Stanley planes. I understand there are a few drops in quality in the manufacturing including: * Solid steel depth adjuster * Blocky tote * Stamped steel lateral adjustment lever * (and the biggest one) No frog adjustment screw I have No. 6 cordovan that, despite these shortcomings, works perfectly fine (made in England if that makes a difference). Just looking for an extended 2¢ on that specific era, it is hard to find info on it as the cordovan planes are generally lumped in the "undesirable and not worth further elaboration" tier. Thanks for the video, I do wish I had watched this a few months ago lol

[@justplanefun]

2-3 years ago I would have been more critical of the Cordovans but I’ve since come to realize that they’re not that bad. Some folks make like em better, on account of their weight (some folks like using a heavy plane). If any of those items get to irritating you, some of them could be swapped out, such as the tote and steel adjuster. Like a lot of folks, I prefer what I already know, which is what I’m already comfortable with - the Stanley Baileys, Bedrocks, and Lie Nielsens

[@christophercastor6666]

I’ve seen a bunch of your fantastic videos and I am a big fan of your buddy Gordon Addison(sp?). I hear you mention other places where you post/sell things, but I can’t locate your other sites. Could you please drop the links at the bottom of your video descriptions? It would definitely help me out and would be great for driving traffic to your alternate pages. Thank you for everything as always, -Castor

[@justplanefun]

I do most of my selling thru Facebook. I have a FB group called Just Plane Fun - the parts division. Are you in FB? Some stuff goes on eBay and I’ve been more active there lately. Are you looking for something in particular?

[@christophercastor6666]

@@justplanefun I got on Facebook as a college freshman in 04-05, and got off about 3 years ago because I couldn’t understand how people could express completely Asinine opinions and think they were correct. I got into this plane mess as Covid started when I found my grandfather’s craftsman jack, I also needed to build a desk for my nephew, and decided to do those things the hard way. By hand. Returned the jack (Sargent) to service because my WWII SeaBee grandfather would’ve kicked my ass if he saw it in that condition, then glued up a table top. However many months later and I have several No5’s (type 15 and newer) a 5.5 (type 19 maybe?) a 4.5, a bunch of weird department label 3’s & 4’s and several Dunlaps made by millers falls. And some spoke shaves. Before this, I was a nut & bolt weld-it guy that hadn’t worked with plant cadavers since 8th grade shop class. Now look at me! Pining over a hand tractor that levels bumpy wood. I used to use wood under jack stands, now I shave it to relax after a shitty day. Worse than dope. Totally hooked. I am not always looking for something, but I am looking I want to check the right places. Thank you for getting back to me, and for the informative entertainment i.e. feeding the addiction. -Castor

[@lynnprobst9032]

Can you tell me how old is a Bailey no.5 corrugated. I'm getting a lot from your videos thanks

[@justplanefun]

Feel free to shoot me pics of it - [e-mail]

[@lynnprobst9032]

OK I'll do thank

[@thewalnutwoodworker6136]

A type 5-8 (idk it has a B leavercap 19'92 on blade and 2 patent dates on leaver) is my jack!

[@DesignEcologies]

Thank you

[@justplanefun]

Glad you’re enjoying them!

[@EggyOrphan]

Hey MJ, was wondering if you know about Merit hand plane.. I see a Merit 5278 (looks like no.5) for about 40 dollars. I'm in LA so harder to find hand planes and affordable ones at that... I've restored a couple tools and I do use them so just wondering if it's a good user plane and worth restoring... Thank you!

[@justplanefun]

The few Merit hand planes I’ve seen didn’t seem like they were especially high quality tools but I certainly haven’t seen them all. Feel free to email me pics to [e-mail] I have several hand planes in stock and while I probably can’t sell a no5 for $40 (plus shipping), I can probably get down to around $50 (plus shipping) for one with hardwood handles.

[@EggyOrphan]

@@justplanefun great thank you will do and look into that!

[@EggyOrphan]

Where would I be able to see the planes you have in stock?

[@jimfulton8167]

Ok so I have a Bailey #4 and #5 that I bought used and have refurbished, they both have adjustable frogs that contact the bed. How do I know what type they are?

[@justplanefun]

I have a series of type study videos here on my channel. Do they have any patent dates in the bed? If the frog makes contact with the sole at the leading edge, they’re probably somewhere between type 9 thru type 20. The type study breakdown videos go thru type 16 so far

[@joelazar6152]

This was awesome. Thanks so much!

[@B_COOPER]

Don’t apologize for not warning us about a pop quiz! That’s the point of a pop quiz!

[@justplanefun]

Fair point!

[@terri1047]

Not sure what I have can u help me?

[@justplanefun]

Email me pics at [e-mail]

[@hermannschmitt3393]

hello from germany i have a question .i got a stanley no.3 c but it has a dark blue body but not the folted one piece lateral adjustmend lever .it seems to be a type 19 but in my research only the type 20 got a blue body ? thanks for your help

[@justplanefun]

If it has the dark blue paint inside the sole, it’s probably a type 20. They didn’t make all the changes at once. Does it have yellow paint in the background behind Stanley on the lever cap? It could be from the very beginning of what we now call the type 20s

[@hermannschmitt3393]

@@justplanefun yes yellow infill . thank u for your help

[@hermannschmitt3393]

so with the older parts its basically a type 19 exept the blue color

[@thewalnutwoodworker6136]

A type 3 is my jointer...

[@Malba1776]

Hey why r everybody so hard on the no 6 Stanley plane ???

[@justplanefun]

It’s kind of a middle size - too big to be a jack plane and on the smaller size to serve as a jointer. I agree that they get a lot of hate but I can’t help but think that folks would rather pony up the extra $20-25 to get a no7 vs. “settling” for a No6. 🤷🏻‍♂️

[@derekdolecki2759]

buy every plane you see lol i did & had a hot mess but honestly produced quality work even w some of the lesser brands as long as they have a sharp blade & theyr set up correctly

[@justplanefun]

I think that’s how a lot of us start out. Just buying everything. Then we get a little culture and we stop buying Pextos at least. 😅

[@bobnicholas1088]

Surprised you did not mention low angle Jack planes

[@justplanefun]

That’s a fair point. Here’s my take on them - with beginners in mind: The Stanley Low Angle Jack planes (No62) are too expensive for a beginner. Worse yet, the mouth on them is too weak for regular use. One false move will turn a $300-$350 plane into a parts plane or a $200 shelf queen due to its blown out mouth. The next best option is a Lie Nielsen which can also be cost prohibitive for a beginner. The Low Angle Jack is a great plane but I think it’s further down on the list of planes to buy when first starting out.

[@bobnicholas1088]

@@justplanefun I believe if cost is a true belief, why not wooden planes. After watching several restorations of worn out Stanley planes or trying to make “Harbor Freight “ types work. Wooden block boxes planes usually require flattening the sole with sandpaper and using fine grade sandpaper to sharpen the blade. Yes junk is junk. Looking at the mouth of the plane, wedge and over all fit before purchase. Rob Cosman sharpening system will price many beginners out of the hobby. Enjoyed your video. Good luck

[@JoeMeunier-z2c]

Just seen your video, I have been collecting and using Stanley planes for about 15 years or so. I wish this type of video was out when I started. Lot of good info for starters. The one thing I picked up on that you keep repeating is about the fort adjustment screw. When it comes Stanley frog adjustment screw, it appeared on the type 10 Bedrock and type 11 Bailey style planes, but other then that awesome video.

[@justplanefun]

The frog adjustment screw was introduced on the type 10 Stanley Bailey planes (not type 11). They were on the bedrocks from the beginning, starting in 1898 (in the Stanley catalog around 1900). I have other videos on my channel that cover both

[@j.d.1488]

Man I was schooled big time in this video.

[@justplanefun]

I hope that’s a good thing and that you found it helpful 🤓

[@What_Other_Hobbies]

I wish I were this early to every plane related event.

[@oldmarine312]

I recently gathered up all the hand planes i have accumulated over the years because my son asked how long I have been collecting hand planes. Not a collector.....then realized I have 47 of them OHhhh Crap, I'm a collector.

[@justplanefun]

Nothing wrong with being a collector! With any luck maybe I can help you add a plane or 3 to your growing collection 😅

[@oldmarine312]

@justplanefun Looking for a Stanley #3......

[@justplanefun]

@@oldmarine312- feel free to email me at [e-mail] and we can see what we can work out

[@1romcat]

Go watch Paul Sellers about the whole omg, thick planes are way better,… myth. If you’re getting chatter, sharpen better, he would say… just a counterpoint, Paul’s got about 50+ years of experience to go by… Jeff

[@bestbuilder1st]

Thick Irons being better is a myth (chatter-smatter), chatter is when you don't know how to set or use a plane properly. If that weren't the case, millions of users would have purchased them when people were actually using them and not just watching KZbin. The same goes for the Bedrock or Bedrock copies. If they were so good (the best), tradespeople would have purchased them, but they didn't. The bedrock never caught on for actual users, except for later collectors.

[@justplanefun]

On the one hand, I appreciate you watching my video(s). On the other hand, I respectfully disagree with your points. There’s a reason why Lie Nielsen went with a thicker iron when they brought the design back. As did Wood River. And Ron Hock. The decision to produce thicker irons was based on research. If thinner irons were just as effective, that’s what we would still have as they’re cheaper to manufacture - both back then and now. Bedrocks were Stanley’s premium line of planes and not everyone could afford them, especially not apprentice and journeyman cabinet makers & other craftsmen who were using hand planes everyday at work.

[@bestbuilder1st]

@@justplanefun Looks like you have bought into the marketing hype that has been so pervasive over the last 40 years, and the KZbin presenters' virtual reality. Research? Maybe marketing research. Could it be that Lee and WR needed a plane that didn't look like the cheap crap that was produced after '55? They needed something "new and improved", otherwise people would just buy a used quality Stanley (like most users today) instead of paying an exorbitant amount of money for something that didn't offer anything better than what Stanley had sold for years? And Hook- with the glut of used Stanley plane irons available, he also needed to push and used "chatter" as a problem to have something to sell. Again chatter is a cause of a poorly set plane, someone who doesn't know how to properly use one, or marketing hyperbole, nothing more. You can spend half a day sharpening a thick iron, not me, I'll take a regular Stanly iron and in less than 2 minutes I am back at it. If they had done real research, they would have figured out what millions of users/workers did and not produced the bedrock copy. I don't fault them for their planes or their thick irons- they are just fine and their marketing research provided them with a market to sell to. I just don't think everyone should be doing the marketing for them. It is marketing and not truth. I also don't buy the "they couldn't afford them", especially not the "apprentice and journeyman cabinet makers & other craftsmen" bit. Look who is buying quality tools today, it is "journeyman, cabinet makers & other craftsmen". The people who buy the cheap stuff today (as in times past) are the homeowners (and KZbin presenters, unless they are sponsored). The quality stuff is at the job site and the cheap stuff is in the homeowner's garages, the same as in times past. I have spent my whole life at the job site and they are the ones buying the "good" stuff", if it really is the good stuff. If it is fluff, it doesn't get purchased. They also don't waste money on marketing hype. As in time past, tools have to give a good value. If something is all hype and expensive, the tradespeople don't buy it (like the bedrock). As for Bedrock- Stanley wanted to add to their line of tools, but for a variety of reasons it never caught on. The bedrock offered no real value, they were heavy (try using one all day, day in and day out) the frog adjustment gimmick made no difference, etc., and all that hype at a higher price. The tradespeople didn't buy it either, and not because they didn't have the money. Anyone who works with tools for a living knows a cheap tool is far more expensive than a quality tool. I am just a guy who learned from the generation who used hand tools daily and saw what planes were being used, YMMV.

[@justplanefun]

kzbin.info/www/bejne/eqrOq6aIjN-hqNE I’d like to invite you to view another video (or set of videos) made by James Wright. Like you, he doesn’t place a lot of emphasis on the thickness of a plane iron. However, by his own research, with iron thickness weighted relatively low in the overall assessment criteria - Veritas, Lie Nielsen, and Woodriver irons took home the top 3 spots in overall quality. So while we can debate endlessly about whether chatter is a thing or not, research still shows that a thicker iron is superior to a thin one. As for the Bedrocks (and their contemporary replicas), it’s not just the frog adjustment that set them apart (even if many owners of these planes don’t use that feature regularly) - it’s also how the frog mates to the sole of the plane. The design is superior to other plane designs. As I mentioned in the video, Tom Lie Nielsen had many options to choose from when he decided to replicate a vintage hand plane - and he chose Bedrock because it was the best. You mentioned that contemporary craftsman are willing to spend the money to buy the best tools - I get that you’ve been doing this a long time and I’m sure you know plenty of woodworkers, so let me ask you this - how many of them use Lie Nielsen planes regularly? I’m asking because I know hundreds upon hundreds of woodworkers - professionals, hobbyists and everywhere in between, and a high percentage of them own and use a handful of (or a few dozen) Lie Nielsen planes (basically most anyone who can afford them is using LN planes - directly to your point about contemporary craftsmen being willing to spend money on the best tools they can find). I don’t know of anyone who has actually used a LN plane more than once and then had anything very negative to say about it’s performance.

[@bestbuilder1st]

@@justplanefun If you are basing all your information off of what James posts, you lost me- I saw those videos and the others James posted when they originally came out. There was little if anything of real value for the everyday hand plane user and the only thing he showed was he had a disk sharpener and a cool sharp tester. I could write a thesis on how his test was flawed and not applicable to how a plane iron is sharpened or used. I am amazed how you throw out the standard dogma or company line with phrases like "research still shows that a thicker iron is superior to a thin one", What research, Where, When, BY WHOM (the most important)? And "Bedrock because it was the best", best to whom? So you are telling me millions of actual users, who were actual craftsmen and not a bunch of privileged hobbyists or KZbin presenters were all wrong, that somehow today we gained better skills, we are far smarter and more skilled than those who worked with hand planes 10 hours a day 6 days a week? Be careful my friend- your KZbin reality is becoming your real reality. Just because it is on the internet doesn't mean it is true! I would suggest you refrain from using emphatic words like "the best" unless you have the years in the saddle to back it up. Relying on heresy is dangerous. Though you have invalid points and a feeble argument, this discussion does help the algorithm. I'm out.

[@flashwashington2735]

@@bestbuilder1st I'm late to the fray and new to all of this. I own a surf form and a block plane I've had and used in simple rough work carpentry for years. That said I do a lot of reading and pondering. Lies come from limited experience and bias blindness. Back in the day, when Stanley came out with high carbon steel thin blades, it was superior to the low carbon thick blades used by tradesmen, who only possessed an Arkansas stone for maintaining the edge. If there was a soft stone wheel. they could maintain the bevel. If their was a wheel. Today, we would not believe how often they took their stone to the wheel. Stanley did not come to dominate the world market by disappointing products declining in quality, while increasing in price. That's why Bedrocks never took over the market and Veritas won't either, while maintaining their place. Times change. What is profitable changes. For us and the companies who serve us. "Bailey's claim to distinction was that he saw clearly the desirability of a thin steel cutter of uniform thickness, which could be kept in condition by honing only and whose original condition could therefore be more easily maintained." I'm pondering wood working. Thin bladed common planes, two sided Norton stones, and similar quality chisels will build my early benches, tools and fixture. Tools such as these were good enough for even the best European and American masters who considered their work, and their tools with the systems to support them. They mastered chatter and many other things with knowledge from whom they apprenticed and experience resulting in many wisdoms scarce then, and even scarcer today. I can't call myself an expert in anything. I am a student. Keep a cool tongue and a clear head, boys. God bless.😉🙃🙂🙏🙏🙏 h stones. ttps://kzbin.info/www/bejne/rKCceaecmNeDoac kzbin.info/www/bejne/bKO4kHWkm5uBers