Bench Power Supply Full Review (variable 0-30V & 0-10A) QW-MS3010D

Bench Power Supply 30V 10A 110V Variable Output
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Auto Ranging Digital Multimeter (Test: volt, ohm, amp, diode, etc)
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=========
Power Supply Features:
- Output voltage: 0-30VDC
- Output current: 0-10A
- Size: 13.4 x 7.5 x 8.6 inch (17lbs)
Stable Voltage:
-Voltage Stability: ≤0.01% +2mV
-Load Stability: ≤ 0.01% +2mV
-Recovery Time: ≤100μS
-Ripple Noise: ≤1 MVRMS
Stable Current:
-Power Stability: ≤ 0.1% + 3mA
-Load Stability: 0.2% + 3mA
-Ripple Noise : ≤2mArms
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[@marlasota]

the 900mA is NOT current protection but rather the Ohm's law.

[@Clickbaiters]

marlasota I'm not an electrical expert so I was wondering how the unit "knew" not to output more than 900Ma into the light. All other videos on these types of power supplies advice to preset your max amp output before hand so I was confused when the guy in the video didn't do that. I would still preset my amp output when working on cell phone/tablet boards just to be safe.

[@lorenzo42p]

it's reactionary. the knobs set the max current you'd like to provide, when the output current is sensed at or beyond that value it starts cutting the voltage back. the displays don't show the potential output (set with knobs) but only show the actual output. probably an analog circuit using op-amps. just ordered one to play with myself. I expect it'll explode in my face.

[@robc8468]

@R-77So how do your light bulbs in your home know they they are only 60 watts and don't trip your circuit breaker mains? Obviously they are designed to have a certain resistance to have the correct wattage consumption at the rated voltage. Watts = Volts x Amps & Voltage = Amps x Ohms.

[@nicholasbrassard3512]

@@robc8468 the load doesnt 'know' how much amperage it needs. This power supply requires you to set max current as well as max voltage before you connect it to your load. He only showed setting max voltage to 12v in the video. Idk why he said it was protection

[@mariodabek5596]

lol i just came here to say that, if the load only draws 900mA you can't magically toss 10 amps at it

[@darklightstudioinc]

Although I've been a developer for at least educated for over 25 years, I'm only around 2 years into electronics as a self-taught 'hobby' so certainly a newb. I've only been playing around with my first PSU which is a very similar model for half a day now and I had to thank you for the MOST practical and useful info I've found yet. :)

[@dial2fast]

+Brian Gilbert Cool. Thanks for your comment!

[@nabsetiya4715]

luil

[@Zonfeair]

Just bought one of these and this was a great explanation of how to use this power supply. Thank you.

[@geoffgeoff143]

I would have liked to see output on scope. Also, how well it controlled low currents,ie 10 mA. How well things works at each extreme is usually the real test. It's quite a good introductory review but not a full test and review. Quite helpful though for many. Perhaps you can do a follow up review in more detail.

[@randybentley5795]

Thank you. For your knowledge and the understanding I received, Randy Bentley

[@SteveH-TN]

Thanks for sharing this excellent video and information. Yesterday I ordered a similar power supply manufactured by Longwei. Your video has been helpful and explains many features of the one I will be getting in a couple of days .😊

[@randywetzler5976]

Thanks for sharing! Nice explanation of how to use the constant current feature.

[@Vaingorious]

Very detailed great job explaining how the amps work!

[@MichelOcampo]

thank you very much! I will be receiving my power supply (exactly like yours) and I had my doubts about couple things but thanks to this video I was able to understand how to use it and feel more confident now when I receive mine. cheers!

[@thinkingjoe5440]

Did you buy the unit? How's it going?

[@purelife9000]

I have this exact PS and needed to get your input to keep from hurting myself. Thanks. Subbed.

[@binshotalot]

Great explanation and video, wish I'd found it a few years back.👍👍👍

[@ChuckMcManis]

It would be super helpful if you would connect it up to an oscilloscope and show how much ripple the supply has in C.C. mode vs C.V. mode.

[@mdavidf]

Just what I needed! Thank you!

[@hhgg-ft5jq]

I touched the + to - when it started. It sparked and popped. Now when I start the device without the clips the voltage climbs to 5 volts. Isit broken? Any help is appreciated.

[@hossiluc]

Wonderful video, clear and concise. Keep it up

[@shaillybhai007]

really nice demo. thank you so much. I have already destroyed many component.

[@007380]

Thanks for the video. It helped me out with the problem I was having with mine.

[@wireworks616]

No matter how much you turn up the current the load is just gonna pull what it needs to operate. It's called ohms law

[@TechTed1]

This is a fantastic power supply thanks for the link i will consider

[@blackhoodproductions3739]

Great video, and a nicely done description on how to operate those lower end power supplies. I've always wondered how the current limiting was done without all of the bells and whistles with those.

[@mrplod1616]

They look exactly the same because they are the same! It is not made by Qal Way Electronics. They have just put their badge (sticker) on it. Which is why is comes in plain box and the User Manual isn't branded either. Shop around folks. Things that look the same usually are and some brands are a lot cheaper than others. :)

[@michalaugustyniak6449]

On my very same unit the knobs don’t adjust anything. I have 0v or max 30v can’t adjust voltage or current at all from very beginning. Where to look for a problem ?

[@hippywomg]

just got 2 of these one broken cheers for the heads up :)

[@jarekf3083]

A review of a 10A PSU with just 1A ???

[@SandeepJadhao1]

Amazing explanation. I was searching for it from long time.

[@vmurthyvmurthy4210]

What a in complete explanation

[@vmurthyvmurthy4210]

They didn't explain ed how to connect apparatus correct ly. That's bad

[@markrandel3655]

Please explain the voltage connections minus, ground and plus. Do these allow a positive and negative voltage with reference to ground? I know you must disconnect the jumper from minus to ground. But I don't see a minus voltage or a positive voltage with ground as common reference.

[@JerryEricsson]

Thanks I was looking for a control for my 24 volt DC Power supply so I could use it for a variable, I found this particular type claiming 30 volts at 10 amps for ten bucks American free shipping from the US OF A! I can't find a power boost/buck that I Can get any cheaper, so I went ahead and put in my order. For what I need it for, if this performs anywhere near the claimed output I will be a happy camper, if not perhaps I can use the case and variable resistors to build a better PS from the leftovers.

[@tonytesoriero9804]

Jerry Ericsson verdict?

[@danielnaicker2142]

Hey, I need a negative voltage to power some dual rail op amps. What is the cheapest power supply I can buy to achieve this? I am at home and do not have access to the campus labs

[@dmc200755]

Hi, I watched this video to find out what the yellow connector was for. I still don't know, but the rest was good, thanks.

[@kaybhee6]

on this or other ps.... how to do following... set to 12v dc FIXED... connect to music amplifiier...which is playing music.... and altho...the amp takes a Max of 1000 m A, i want to SLOWLY VARY ONLY THE CURRENT Limit from 100 to 1000 mA while hearing how the sound changes....

[@POLMAZURKA]

WHY DID YOU NOT CONNECT AN AMMETER IN SERIES WITH THE CIRCUIT?

[@Electronic_For_You]

I have a old power supply But if i adjust the voltage to 13V and connect a 12V led it drop to 12V i can't rise the voltage up to 12V 😞 But i can decrease the voltage 12-0V (Power supply is 22V)

[@hmodh4095]

Hi sir how much minimum voltage you can get from power supply

[@johnbrevard5966]

Thank you for this!

[@MegaBakerdude]

The crooked label that is lifting of the panel is pretty funny.

[@aaronchamberlain4698]

Thanks for the video. I saw a model similar to this (just different branding) on Newegg for $60 so I might grab one. I don't need the resolution just yet, usually just need a voltage to debug phone circuit board and such.

[@Savagedownsouth]

Aaron Chamberlain I bought one of the yescom power supplies off of Newegg a couple weeks ago. The first didn't work, so I requested a replacement, and they sent it free of charge. It doesn't work either. Hopefully the third time's the charm, and they don't try and make me spend all the savings I thought I was getting on shipping.

[@aaronchamberlain4698]

Dalton Patterson what exactly didn't work about it? Mine powered on just fine and I used it in place of a 9V battery as a test. Worked fine for me.

[@Savagedownsouth]

They all had slightly different sets of problems. The first two, the knobs wouldn't turn the power up. No reading when checked by my multi-meter, so it wasn't just the display, either. The third worked intermittently for a bit less than a minute, with no load, fresh out the box. Then only the voltage regulation worked, with a very very small amperage reading. It failed before I even attached it to anything. I'm trying to get a refund now, but Yescom isn't responding, and now I'm past the 30 day return period. Newegg said they'll talk to them, and to wait a couple days for a response. I don't want to pay to ship all three of these back to the California warehouse they came from, either, to get my 50 bucks back. (I think they knocked it up to the 60 you paid right after I bought mine, btw.)

[@Elecifun]

Hi, great review. Does it drop to 16-18 volts when you drawing high current like 9-10 amps?

[@RobertLErwinJr0224]

I have a question... I just bought the same model (QW-MS3010D). With or without the meter attached, my CV (Constant Voltage) indicator light flickers at or between 3 and 6 VDC. In addition I hear a clicking sound while the CV light flickers. My question is - is this supposed to happen? I don't think I need to be an electronics guru to know something isn't right - do you agree? When I watched your video, you CV light doesn't flicker, it stays solid. What are your thoughts on this? Any help is appreciated. Thanks in advance. :-)

[@antresia.9723]

Can you charge laptop batteries using your dc power supply.

[@moeshickenyay]

So if you have a device that requires 12v, and say 3 amp, the power supply will sense this and up the amps to 3amp at 12volts? And there s no way to bypass the current protection feature if you want a specific voltage, and amperage.

[@louise9958]

Does anyone know how far these power supplies can be floated above and below ground? I only want to use 2 of these in series in generate +/-15. Assuming this should be fine.

[@margyjr]

Great Video, It helped me alot, Thanks

[@officialmysteriousrider6327]

dial 2 fast do you still have this because ive just bought one myself & was wondering if it's any good for zinc plating & it hasn't arrived yet so dont no myself until its here

[@luebke73]

Think about Ohm's law! You missed something!

[@informediatech-bruno5766]

So ive got this 15v model how to icrease it to 24v since it has a 24 v output transformer

[@ketangulhane1631]

Nice video sir.. Thank you for knowledgeable video

[@muhammedhussainalialisher]

Thanks very good information , after your i have learn new stuff

[@dial2fast]

+muhammed hussain ali Glad you found my video helpful

[@tonywharton5220]

Very helpful video thank you 😀

[@ZONAEDINSON]

amigo tengo una duda con mi power suplly es de 24v ajustable pero al mover el regulador de voltage al maximo llega a 28v sera malo usarla asi gracias

[@amyferguson8790]

so because It has a short-circuit protection circuit, can I short-circuit this to, let's say, over-current wire to make it go incandescent?

[@ketangulhane1631]

Nice sir, its knowledge video.... Thanks sir.

[@Autunite]

I'm thinking about buying this for my workshop where I have a lot of different eBay electronics and lights, mostly 12V and 24V. What I thought was a bit poor with this is that it doesn't show less than 0.1A, but if I need an accurate reading of the current I can always hook up a multimeter in series with it. It costs about $75 on eBay right now, the same model number as this.

[@tepan4d]

PROTOCỢL watch out, I just order one, and fail. I do not recommend. Looks like never have been tested before shipping. Mine shows only zeros but it does not regulate.

[@Autunite]

Well, I already bought it and we'll see.. I'm going to buy a much better one with more accuracy next week, so I'm just gonna test this and use it for rough powering.

[@arunpandi22356]

Good information thanks sir

[@Alecks1990]

would you recommend a powersupply like this for charging lipo batteries?

[@frankfernandes1282]

Thanks very informative

[@antresia.9723]

I have a dc power supply that I brought on eBay right,now is mess up the mosfet has shortened out but im going to fix it replaced the new mosfet when i first got mines it was kinda cool.

[@naderhumood1199]

Great vedio Sir it's very clear.... 👍

[@TekWhizz]

This is just incorrect to say that the power supply is protecting the load at 900 MA! The bulb he's using is a 12 V bulb that normally draws 900 MA. This is determined by the resistance of the filament in the light bulb. The bulb can't draw more then 900 MA at 12 V because it resists the current, and the resistance produces heat which makes it glow. If you lower the power supply's output current, the bulb will dim since it can't draw enough current to fully glow, and the voltage will also drop as well since less amperage being drawn also means less voltage is being drawn as a result of less electrons being able to get through the resistance of the filament. Basically you are "starving" the bulb of power by limiting how much it can draw... In effect this is now working as a bulb dimmer. You could dim a bulb by cutting the current, or cutting the voltage. Sure it will lengthen the life of the bulbs since you are not burning the filament at such a high temperature. This can also work in slowing down a motor, like a fan motor. If you starve it of current or voltage, the motor won't spin as fast since less electrons can flow through it... As for PROTECTION of electronics. Well if you were going to drive some LED lights, yes, limiting current will help prevent burning out the LEDs, since LEDs can draw more power than they can handle at a certain voltage and burn out. So for example, if an LED is rated at 3.3V and you apply the 3.3V directly with no current limit, it could overdrive the LED, as the LED would draw too much current and overheat. This is why resistors are generally placed in series with LEDs to prevent them from overheating. However if the power source is limited in amperage and voltage the LED won't be at risk. For example a 5V LED connected to a 3V lithium button battery will be fine since the voltage and maximum current are limited and won't overheat the LED. Otherwise when driving LEDs, it's important to limit the voltage and maximum current and this is when current limiting comes in handy. You could also limit the voltage and limit the LED to a safe brightness level where it doesn't overheat, but that is more risky... Regarding other electronic applications, electronics don't draw more power than they need. For example a radio will draw as much current as it needs to operate. Say a transistor radio will draw 50 MA of current at 1.5V. So if you hook it up to a 1.5V power supply capable of supplying 20A, that would be fine because the transistor radio will never draw more than it needs to operate, around 50MA. Of course if something shorted out, 20A might totally fry it. This is why generally electronic devices have a fuse or a current limiting resistor to limit damage in case of some short causing a huge inrush of destructive current. This is already built into the circuit. So if you hooked up a plug-in radio to a power supply and limited the current to something below what it requires, the radio won't operate properly since you would be starving it of power. If you lower the voltage below what it requires, it also will deteriorate in functionality. So a 120V clock radio might still work at 80V but below that, it will just stop working. If it needs to draw 5W and you limit it to 3W, it probably stop working. So the main reason for a variable Amperage and Voltage power supply is for electronics projects, repair and testing where you actually need to limit amperage or voltage in your application. One common scenario is charging some batteries. Batteries always need to be charged with some kind of current limiting, or they will overheat and explode. Say, a NiMH battery might recommend charging at 85 MA for 16 hours for a full charge. This will be a slow charge, it will limit heating the battery and extend its life. However you could speed up the charging by allowing 700 MA to run through the battery for only a couple hours. The battery will fully charge but will get quite warm which will reduce its longevity in the long run. This is when a power supply like this can come in handy, you can choose exactly how fast you would like to charge the battery. Normally battery charging is done by specialized circuits which use a smart chip to monitor the charge level and can stop the charging based on the current draw and current voltage of the battery. They are usually pretty necessary for Lithium batteries which are quite hard to charge properly without constant intelligent monitoring. Otherwise, when you are experimenting with electronics it's often pretty important to be able to limit the voltage and currents you are applying to avoid putting yourself or your circuits at risk of receiving too much voltage or too much current.

[@pollydor07]

THANKS

[@sureshlingabathina]

Excellent but do you calibrated you new lead resistance to your power supply

[@joeli6667]

I bought one a month ago from an ebay seller and the display was blinking and then all of a sudden it went poof and smoke came out. The seller sent a replacement which I just tested. When I set it on current limiting and turn down the current it will make a faint, very fast clicking sound. is this normal or should I be worried?

[@Tommyt14]

Joe Li mine just did that as well.

[@vallenlarsen5519]

Thank you for the video. Did you calibrate the meters at all? I also noticed the trim pots under the meters. Are they for calibration? Thanks.

[@dial2fast]

+Vallen Larsen No

[@Tnapvrvideo]

Would something like this work fine using a breadboard to create LED lighting and other train related circuits for our HO Scale model railroad layout that has 15V across the tracks? Thanks!

[@dial2fast]

Yes it will work as a power supply for your LED circuit in a breadboard.

[@CHIBA280CRV]

Excellent thanks

[@IvanIvanovSS]

What if I need to go more amps on this device, how can I do this?

[@Flip-Flop-Rio]

My friend, did it come with a schematic diagram, or just an instruction manual? Those settings that have two adjustment buttons on top, what do they do?

[@Shazzkid]

The knobs are fine and coarse adjustments

[@scotthenderson4376]

hmm guess I need more tutelage I just blue up my led light bar I set the voltage below the 12 v of the light and turned up the power

[@robviolin1]

It help a lot, thanks. You never said what the yellow button was for that sits between the back and red power button.

[@differentname8051]

that's just an earth clamp

[@robviolin1]

+wayne murphy thanks - very helpful.

[@RealReelzz]

thank you for the video i thought my power supply was broken straight out of the box lol well once again thank you for taking time to make this video you've definitely saved me from looking like a total idiot lol

thanks sir ! so usefull.

[@peterfitzwell9658]

I just bought one identical to this one but its from Hong Kong and I only paid $15 for it. I'm hoping it does ok for the price lol.

[@makun16]

I have that worked great for a year until it suddenly popped under light load the other day. I took the cover off and saw no viable damage and the display still works but the unit no longer gives power. Any idea what part when bad?

[@dial2fast]

Double check all the connecting posts on this power supply from inside the unit. Mainly make sure tight and secured. This will cause no output which is a common problem on these power supply.

[@makun16]

@@dial2fast Thanks, I will take the cover off again and give it another look. Do the pots tend to go bad on these?

[@TechTed1]

The great video to learn

[@amoo-k]

I see a small two potentiometer between the led display and the volt and current potentiometers .. what is that small potentiometer for ?

[@weberlau863]

Probably to zero the meters.

[@rabindranathramsarop]

Good Video. Can you do a short circuit test on these psu's? Eg. 200mA at 1.5V with output leads shorted.

[@EmergencyChannel]

Hey thanks for the helpful video. I do electronics repair and I have gotten tired of using 10 or 15 different power supplies and their different plug types to test radios and assorted gadgets. I couldn't find the 10 amp version so I settled for the 5 amp for $52, which I think is a good deal if I get a few years of service out of the unit. Is your power supply working well still?

[@dial2fast]

Yes still working great!

[@Bear8Photo]

what is the "ground" for on the dc output?

[@ElizabethGreene]

Mine has an issue where it has trouble regulating below 300mA. Does yours?

[@dial2fast]

I don't have the problem.

[@ericc6240]

Is it a problem running this power supply at 10amps for over 2 hours, like wires getting really hot. I was thinking about using this for anodizing aluminum with constant current.

[@dial2fast]

These are rather budget power supplies. By using it at its maximum rating for long periods of time, it may shorten the life of the unit. Really hard to say.

[@axeami1354]

Eric Smith These cheaper power supplies will only give you the maximum rated power and don't often tell you the constant rated power in the advertisement so it can probably only run at 10 amps for short periods, its probably safe to say the constant rated current is around 6 amps as they normally give power supplies a rated power of a third lower than the max rated.

[@grassoft]

I have a LW-3010KDS Power Supply 30V 10A but I don't understand why the max voltage is 26. I turn my voltage knob to the max but doesn't reach the 30V. Do you know why?

[@themonkeydrunken]

You ay need to open it up and adjust one of the trim POTs. The factory must have set yours a touch too low.

[@anthonykrusel349]

Gr@ssoft, did you diagnose problem? Was it bridge rectifier?

[@johntaylor8271]

I have a custom made battery pack made out of 324 Panasonic AA Eneloop batteries (Eneloop AA factory spec = 1.2 V/1900 mAh; actual tested spec = 1.43V/1.85 Ah which I will use for this example). Said battery pack has 9 AA batteries wired in series per column (9 x 1.43V = 12.87V/1.85 Ah) x 36 columns wired in parallel (36 x 1.85 Ah = 12.87V/66.6Ah). A freaking awesome 12.87 V/66.6 Ah battery pack that just keeps on going and going and going. However, when it comes time to charge the batteries, I spend about an 45 min taking the batteries out and putting them into the 4 bank charges that came with the batteries, then another 45 min taking them out of the chargers to put them back into the battery pack....yes, a royal pain in the butt. I have considered a 10 amp battery charger, but I have determined because I need to charge precisely to 12.8 V that I would be better off using a 12 VDC 10 amp variable power supply instead so that I can fine-tune it accordingly. I typically charge the batteries at 50% depletion so it should take me 3 hours or so to charge the battery pack at 10 amp. Question: Can I do this with this power supply? I assume there is no danger of overcharging because once it charges the battery pack to 12.8 V it just quits? Thanks for any help you can provide in this regard.

[@weberlau863]

It is recommended that you charge each battery at a fixed current until it reaches 1.5V or so. By charging individually, the charger can determine through temp rise and how quickly the voltage is rising, when to stop charging. When you have a number of batteries hooked up in series and parallel, you deprive the charging process of this information, and it is up to you when to stop. Problems arise when not all the individual batteries are at the same state of charge at the start of charging, and they will accept charge at different rates. So let's say you charge your pack at 10A, and watch the voltage rise to 13.5 V. Some of the batteries will be undercharged still, while others may be overcharged. Repeat this a few times and differences between batteries will be magnified to the point of hazard. You can find more info at batteryuniversity.com. Commercial battery packs are built with cells that have been matched, but even then failures do occur. But if you want to try anyway, set the voltage to 13.5V and current control to 10A. The charge time is determined by how discharged the batteries are. If you determine they are 50% discharged, then 33.3 Ah needs to be replaced (this will undercharge a little, to be safe), so you would charge for 3 hrs 20 min. if the current was constant at 10A. But it won't be, as the voltage rises the charging current will fall off. So you have another margin against overcharge if you stick to the calculated time. Be sure to be on the lookout for individual batteries that may be getting hot, by feel or infrared thermometer. If so, stop the charging and remove that string from the pack and charge the rest. Then go back to the problem string and see what you can do to fix it.

[@dibraniuk]

hi, i have this identical power supply but the other day it decided to not switch on anymore! checked the 2 glass fuses at the back and they not blown, any tips as what might be preventing to switch on?? thx

[@dial2fast]

+Alb_ALPS There is a controller board in the power supply that might be having issues. You can open it and take a quick look, but it can be challenging to fix.

[@dibraniuk]

+dial2fast thanks, i had it hooked up to a fantom load and i wonder if the overload protection kicked in or burned out... i shall try to fix as not easy to get warrantee from China...

[@differentname8051]

+Alb_ALPS Hi, my power supply has also died upon switching on with no load attached. There seems to be no sign of life and both fuses are okay. Did you figure out what was the cause of your unit's fault.

[@stevenA44]

Good video, good info.

[@officialmysteriousrider6327]

Mine is a 15v 3amp 1503DD model it works fine for powering stuff like bulb's moters anything that runs on electricity but it wont work for like zinc plating & that's the only reason i bought it for but i dont get nothing happening when i try to plate stuff of my bike do you have any ideas why this could be or does anyone in the comments no why this could be please? ? ?

[@remu3881]

I think you you need just plain psu with big transformer inside and not switching psu for the job

[@officialmysteriousrider6327]

@@remu3881 they wouldn't even take it back eva but ive got rid of it now anyway iam useing a lap top charger for zinc plating now but thanks for the reply anyway mate

[@remu3881]

@@officialmysteriousrider6327 that's all good mate keep safe 👍

[@mardoborson7531]

thanks that is quite helpful

[@Xenon777_]

What is the purpose of the strip of metal between the ''Negative'' and ''Ground'' and will it cause any problems if I remove it?

[@paulkylliainen9282]

It ties the negative pin to ground. That meaning your sockets ground. If you remove it you can use the power supply as a floating voltage source.

[@Xenon777_]

Pavetski Ok, thanks :)

[@jaws2858]

Helped a watt!🤣

[@sleepingbearffg5008]

Lmaooooo

[@Lambda_Ovine]

This is the video I was looking for, god dammit!.

[@alexanderstroborg1805]

hey, is it possible to keep a constant 12v while increasing/decreasing the amperage? for example I have an electrolysis tank which needs different amperage, however it is recommended to keep a constant voltage. So can I have 12v 2 amps then switch to 12v 1 amp? ect.

[@dial2fast]

***** The power supply will always try to output the proper current draw that your device requires. So if the load needs 1amp, and you set it for 2amp, it will still output the required of 1amp.

[@mechanicalmind1312]

I have the same problem, annoying because i thought I would be able to adjust current while keeping voltage the same for zinc plating. I thought that was the point of a variable power supply!

[@rackbasedlife9584]

Ohms law explains why as you decrease current, voltage drops, Ohms law is "Voltage = Current x Resistance". in your electrolysis tank the resistance doesn't change, but if you raise or lower current, the voltage will change. With any power supply you cannot put more current into a circuit without either raising voltage, or reducing resistance. if you need more current, look at thicker wires, and better/more terminations to reduce resistance. or raise the voltage. if you wish to reduce current, you will have a loss in voltage.

[@angel85lx]

so lets say i have a 12 volt fan and i want to find what spin rate i want to use it. the higher the amp on my power supply will make the fan spin faster. so 1 power supply at 12 volts 1 amp will spin slower then if i put a 12 volt 2 amp power supply. So this power supply will not give me that option to increase the amps unless i raise the voltage. Is that correct???? My thing is like @dialfast i want to adjust the amps while keeping the volts the same. I also purchased this because i was thinking i would be able to adjust both volts and amps. My thing was this way i can find what combination volts and amps power supply i can purchase and save me the guessing game what will work best.

[@DIYForNoobs]

Very nice Video!!

[@dharma.vibrates]

Sir can we use this for laptop repair ?

[@jaroslavchytil5732]

Hi i want to ask you if everything is solved by eletronic or inside is transformator

[@ozriblit]

There is a transformer with multiple secondary taps.

[@burgerbirger2221]

Does it still work? Have you ever connected it to a scope to check what kind of ripple it puts out? I'm considering buying one of ebay.

[@dial2fast]

+Burger Birger Still works fine and don't have a scope to check how clean it is. Not too important for the things I do to test some basic electronic circuits.

[@burgerbirger2221]

Ok, thanks :)

[@ertan1147]

I really do not know whether I should make my own power supply or buy like that. Obviously fan sound disturbs me..

[@xDRxTeamVip]

I have one question you think this would work if i put an car amplified in home to use it at the house u think it gonna work

[@LOVETHEOUTDOORS2013]

i would recommend using a PC power supply (PSU) its a cheaper option or you might already have an old one you could use and it works very well i use mine all the time with no problem

[@maxmixer]

and how do you regulate the voltage ?

[@jamesparker5374]

well good

[@kaybhee6]

try this,,, set to 10v,,, set to 0.5a,,,,,, now short output,,,, what happens... what readings,,, pls

[@dial2fast]

Current reads 0.9A, voltage reads 0.1V

[@christophermendonca7969]

The current can't go higher because the blulb is only 900 ma of r

[@bhargavtreevedimmt]

good morning sir, sir i have one maxx dc power supply for mobile repairing when i connect the phone to the power supply and switch on the mobile device i found that current meter is fluctuating from 30 to 50 constantaly in every device so please tell me what is the problame

[@robc8468]

Aren't the phones just pinging the tower when on standby and not on full time broadcast mode?

[@arameh]

you're looking at C $170 for a 5 Amp 30V. The prices of everything has just skyrocketed. I pray that we can feed ourselves in the coming years.

[@rdtech9153]

in face , you don't need spend 170 usd. you can spend less 30usd buy a DP30V5A and use a second hand laptop power supply to make a real power supply .. this is choice www.aliexpress.com/store/product/RD-DP50V5A-Constant-Voltage-current-Step-down-Programmable-Power-Supply-module-buck-Voltage-converter-color-LCD/923042_32613371214.html and there are many chioce, 50V5A, 30V/12A www.aliexpress.com/store/group/DPS-Programmble-control-power-supply/923042_508466030.html i am the designer, you can contact me ..

[@robc8468]

What currency is C? Is that the Canadian peso aka Loonie?