The *PHOSPHATE* [BLACK] Algae Connection!

[@BenOchart]

Co-op Links Here! Phosphate Pads: www.aquariumcoop.com/products/phosphate-media-pad?sca_ref=3301874.0yH4KEHjB2 Phosphate API Test Kit: www.aquariumcoop.com/products/api-phosphate-test-kit?sca_ref=3301874.0yH4KEHjB2 Full Spec LED LIGHTS: www.aquariumcoop.com/collections/all/products/aquarium-co-op-easy-plant-led?sca_ref=3301874.0yH4KEHjB2 HEATERS: www.aquariumcoop.com/products/aquarium-co-op-heater?sca_ref=3301874.0yH4KEHjB2

[@markfranklin8831]

Good information thanks for sharing 💗💯✌️👍

[@alt7244]

Here we go. One more test kit. It's amazing how deep the rabbit hole is now compared to my last tank set up 40 years ago. Back then all I had was the INNES book on fish keeping. That was the ultimate go-to source for fish stuff. I wish I still had it. After intensely watching hours of aquarium channels, I find myself watching this channel the most. Thanks for your contributions.

[@BenOchart]

Very nice of you to say that, thank you!

[@rossdingle6236]

Good tip, i have the same problem on my large anubias. Water changes and gravel clean are not getting rid of it so I’ll watch how your phosphate pads work.

[@keithduwe2647]

Awesome video once again. Absolutely love filter information can’t get enough of it. Your tanks look awesome as always.

[@BenOchart]

Thank you 😀👍🏻

[@razinfishes1918]

Good info Ben. So I learned something today and why I didn't think of it. But my phosphate pads seem to plug up rather quickly in my Title series HOB so instead of laying it flat in the basket I'm going to try and stand it up in the basket and see how it performs that way.

[@n8nkqrp595]

Hi Ben- I think you need to pull the test tube away from the card. It's not blue- it's green/teal, and when you hold the test tube against these API cards, they go dark. I also don't hond it in front of the card- I use a satin finish white card to block all color bars except for the one of interest. Then I hold my test tube about a half inch in front of that. Thank you for your awesome vids!

[@kathydoro1527]

That was very helpful. Thank you. I was wondering why my Anubias started to go black around the edges.

[@Fishtory]

Thanks for sharing. I live 2 miles from Aquarium Co-op and love picking up those pads for my cichlid or lightly planted tanks. I too noticed a phosphate issue and BBA then also if my tanks had any sand other than quartz, it means it likely cas silicates and that is what powder or diatom algae is using for much of it's growth. Using pool filter, quartz sand, gravel or flourite- help reduce the silicates. The phosphates in my system I traced both from "all in one Fertilizers...and specifically aquarium co-op's Easy Green. ( so water changes of 50% or more a week are fairly essential to using their dosing regime, as it also runs "hot" on nitrates as well... which is fine and dandy but something to be aware of.) Also a FLAKE FOOD ... or rather any dry foods with fat and protein is going to also raise your phosphates, ive seen my phosphates go to nearly 0 when i ceased feeding dried foods in a couple test tanks. Also, all in one dosing of fertz being switched to EI dosing, allowed me to reduce 3 to 4 ppm within a week without anything more than top offs of evaporated water even. Thanks. Just wanted to toss in my 1 cents, for what it's worth despite inflation hehe.

[@mstevens6723]

Well put! I have noticed the same things in terms of nitrate and phosphate jumps since using easy green. Aquarium Co Op does say that nitrates will rise but i havent heard mention of the phosphates. The nitrates are ok and actually desires for the plants, but if you dont realize that theyll increase, or worse, dont test your water regularly they can sneak up on you. I do about 25-35 percent changes each week and would measure before and after easy green dose so i could get it more exact. Whats been working best for me is a half dose after a weekly change. The half dose seems to raise nitrates about 15-20ish ppm. Now thats not an exact scientific finding, but id recommend the process of doing the before and after water tests to get it tailored perfectly for your tank. Guess i have to do the same for phosphates now lol!! Much love!

[@BenOchart]

Good info! Thanks!

[@cichlid_kings]

Clean filters can make a difference. I'd consider possibly cutting back to one feeding a day or maybe even adding a sunsun or similar filter to get some more water turn over per hour. Looks like all the work you put in was an improvement on lower phosphates 😎

[@BenOchart]

I've been reluctant to go to one feeding since I've heard that these little fish run a much higher metabolism. Maybe I'm over thinking it.

[@migueleespinosa2632]

Ben, I'm surprised you don't have a sponge on your filter intake. It will make a huge difference on the filter effectiveness. And yes, planted tanks do take way more maintenance to keep looking good.

[@BenOchart]

I might be cutting one from a big matten sponge I have from Swiss Tropicals. It’s the same material o used to cover the intake of the SunSun 704-B canister on the 210. It works well on the canister and should do equally as well on the HOB

[@michaelshaw8370]

As ever a great video. Two groups learn the most from this. The newbies and returning fish keepers. The others being the long term ten/ twenty/ thirty plus year fish keepers. Newbies simply don’t know. So the info saves fish and heartache. Returning and ole hands can either forget or get into that groove of. I have alway done this it works nothing ever changes. WRONG! Even if you are in the same location. Water sources and treatment methods change. Is the source lake, river, underground, or combination. Have you moved? Even a few miles can make a huge difference. If the water is from an above ground source phosphates can be from a run off.

[@BenOchart]

All very good points! Thanks for watching and commenting.

[@HalfManHalfCichlid]

Phisphate is a super food for your plants. A healthy planted aquarium will generally consume the phosphates. In fact in a heavily planted tank i have had to add Potassium Phosphate to about 5 ppm so the plants do not stress out.. I think you phosphates are high from low plant growth/density and likely accumulate from low% water changes. I have learned from plant keeping is don't fight the algae, work on your plants flourishing and actively growing so thy out compete th algae.

[@BenOchart]

More plants essentially out competing for the nutrients has to be a part of the equation. I'm hoping the val takes off. I know it can be like a weed, otherwise I will add more plants in the future. It's a bit of a balancing act for sure.

[@angiemoore1741]

Great information. I am excited to put this into practice and see the results. Time for another co-op order!

[@BenOchart]

Let me know your results. If you use my links in the comments it helps the channel😉😀👍🏻

[@wallyklw5]

Clean, change phosphate sponge, water change, cut feeds, cut light--always works well for me

[@varanidguy]

Keep in mind that phosphates are needed by the plants too, but how many is dependent on the energy level of your tank (how many plants, fast vs slow growers, water column vs root feeders, co2 andn high light or no co2 and low-medium light, etc). But even then, like 1-2 ppm is all that's needed. This really is a good example of an imbalance. Good video!

[@BenOchart]

Great point! Yes, my goal is to get in that sweet spot. Another approach would be to add more plants and have them out compete for the nutrients. Thanks for the comment! Appreciated.

[@justinh6962]

are you adding fertilizer. that's probably the most likely cause of the high phosphate's.

[@davidmccann2633]

You guys I got 2 nerit snales the other week just to see what all the fuss is about .... IM TELLING YOU... 1 of them little guys can clean an intier rock in a day !.... they have been working ther way round my 200 letre/44 gallon community tank and they are doing a great job .. just 2 of those little guys I reckon will clean a 40 gallon 🤞🤞

[@BenOchart]

I love my little Nerite in my 20 gallon tall, but she lays a thousand white eggs all over the decor, LOL!

[@SevilleSteve]

Thanks for the phosphate tips. Watching replay here in Seville Spain Hola Wanted to know if you have had any of my new fish….Tilapia Galaxia, Cichlasoma Salvini, Placodochromis Phenochilus, Pseudotropheus Elongatus, or Pseudotropheus Elongatus Chewere ? I have several 75 and 125G cichlid tanks already and wonders if anything special I should be aware of with these new inhabitants. thanks

[@BenOchart]

I am keeping a Salvini and was told it would be too aggressive but she gets along with the other fish. I think having bigger fish in there (Oscar and Vieja) and providing caves she can claim and hide in, have made her a lot calmer.

[@gnarlytubeage]

Hey Ben there’s a popular chemical filtration used in reef keeping called GFO, granular ferric oxide. It’s a resin that absorbs phosphates quite effectively. It can be bought from bull reek supply. I’d look in to how effective it is in freshwater but it may a better solution for your high phosphate.

[@BenOchart]

I wonder if that's what's in the Phos Filter Pads? There has to be something in them that gets them to absorb the phosphate. Thanks for the tip!

[@ursanbear]

What about using GFO? I've been for several months and it's really made an impact.

[@TheWalk23]

How long were your phosphate pads in your filter ? Makes me recognize that phosphate pads eed to be changed on a routine schedule. Thanks for the video.

[@BenOchart]

Too long, like a couple months. I think going forward I'll pull them out and rinse after two weeks then replace after a month.

[@samperson8787]

Ben where did you get that digital thermometer?

[@BenOchart]

It's available on Amazon here: amzn.to/3qSMVi4

[@frankiefingerz8047]

I always battle brown algae no matter what i do it never goes away i hate it

[@lobodread]

You need plants on that tank

[@BenOchart]

Check out one of my more recent videos. You’ll be pleased.