Bent Lamination

[@bluehoo0]

This brings back memories of when I was a young apprentice. Laminating curved skirting boards, curved staircase strings. I remember we once made curved doors with raised and fielded panels. It’s been a long time since i did any of this so it brought back happy memories. Thanks for the video.

[@SwitchAndLever]

There are benefits to either technique for sure. I've done a bit of steam bending, and if you want the resulting piece of wood to be homogeneous it's definitely an unbeatable method. Though, it does require a bit of overbending as the springback of the wood will make the form different from what you need if you're not careful. Nailing the correct form can require quite a bit of experimentation. With lamination the form you hold it while the glue dries is the form you get, so that's definitely a plus. Great video! Very comprehensive!

[@mainewoods1862]

BRILLIANT ! On offsetting for the material . I am going to build some nets as Christmas presents , most net builders don’t seem to be thinking about this with sizing the culls. I will be steam bending but I dry clamp for am hour or so then glue up is easier as the pieces are well on their way to holding the new shape. I have learned SO MUCH from you over the years Mark. Big Thank you.

[@jkreed1960]

Instead of using a compass to lay-out the 1.5" gap / cut line; cut a plywood or sheet-metal circle with a 1.5" radius, and use it to draw the cut line. This eliminates the need to keep the compass perpendicular to a curved line.

[@Jason-vn5xj]

5:30-6:15 Thank you so much for showing the other options. So many videos leave it to the novice to either figure out how to make do with their home set-up or bite it and invest in the tools. It can be discouraging when the whole point of searching for a video was to learn how to do something for yourself. Thanks for also not dragging on with endless exposition. Nice, crisp tutorial. Well done.

[@DroweHP]

Great video! Have wanted to bend the wood at least one year, but did not know how. Many shows how to bend in steam. You show in an easy and understandable way. Thank you for sharing your skills.

[@gahooa]

Excellent video Marc. This opens the door to using my CNC router to make the bending fixtures quickly and accurately with only my imagination being the limit. I appreciate the information!

[@SuperSkinnymoose]

Typically thorough and useful counsel. Great stuff!

[@BitsOfEternity]

I like parchment paper for preventing glue sticking - I know it isn't always an option, but a nice thing about it is that it is reusable. It is also easy to remove if any of it does stick, though it doesn't stick often, in my experience. Always enjoy the learning, thanks!

[@felixreali7101]

you are really great at explaining and showing techniques, Marc. hats off. thanks for sharing

[@IAMPACIFIC1]

Seriously, these videos are awesome and really help me out with my projects!

[@brendajett2133]

Thanks for the excellent tutorial Marc! Yes, steam bent wood and bent laminations are both wood working techs that I wish to learn more about. However, contrary to the characteristically thorough nature of your video content, GROWN FRAMES didn't even get an honorable mention. A wood forming technique that was once thought by the shipwrights of antiquity, yea! "the ancients", to be the only way to "bend" wood to a shape that should suit the will of it's master' . Of course, it takes a really long time do this. Like, WAY longer than a KZbin advertisement. Still, somebody, somewhere has got to be producing "Grown Frames".

[@carlosbourdet5415]

don't Grown frames run the risk of creating reaction wood?

[@karlailin]

Thank you for making all that effort to make the wonderful video sessions and working at the same time. You're a legend mate. I would love to see a complete working on a Sam Maloof's chair or a rocker. But once again, thanks for your help.

[@woodwhisperer]

Like this? thewoodwhispererguild.com/product/sculpted-rocker/ :)

[@colinzeta1985]

Man, your so young and you know so much imagine yourself in 30 years get into everything else if you can inlay, binding, carving(if your aren't already) you got the skills.

[@danamoose1234]

How am I not already subscribed to this guy!?! Lets fix that right now!

[@davidbuchan2224]

As with all your vids - super clear, super helpful. Thank you.

[@drstrip100]

Great video. A small omission in the discussion of glues. Your coverage of the relative safety of the glues, but did not mention that of the glues you've shown, only the PVA is subject to creep. For a shallow bend like the rocker, this might not be a big issue, but for tighter bends, it can become a problem. You can reduce the problem of gluing the workpiece to the cleats by coating the cleats with paste wax first. In fact, you can use paste wax instead of tape over the whole mold. Finally, for sharper or more complex bends, you might want to use cleats on both faces of the form and on both pieces, so they interlock and keep the two form pieces aligned.

[@hishamhamdan2105]

I'm a fan from syria,, i have been following your advices for long time. keep it up curly hair

[@marcus460]

Marc I was just AAW symposium in Pittsburgh and attended a demo on a third option using green compressed hardwood that eliminates steaming and lamination.

[@woodwhisperer]

Marcus460 hmm.. I'll have to look into it. Sounds interesting!

[@marcus460]

I don't remember the name of the company the lecturer gave us but did a quick search and I found PureTimber.com

[@earlydawn81]

I was really excited to see what u did with the wood next and then the video ended!

[@woodwhisperer]

earlydawn81 Here's what I did with it. :) thewoodwhispererguild.com/product/sculpted-rocker-bundle/

[@earlydawn81]

Thanks!!!

[@ronnyvallejo4376]

Always a great teacher!

[@thiswoodwork]

Great video! Used to watch David Marks do this on Woodworks. Yet to get round to doing it myself, really want to!

[@woodwhisperer]

ThisWoodwork DO IT!!! It's actually incredibly fun. Though incorporating those curved parts into a project then presents itself with all sorts of fun challenges. :)

[@titanwr]

Good method of bent laminations. Another, perhaps "dumbed down" version is to approximate the thickness of your material for your negative. When I was building a lot of traditional bows, I did not have parallel laminations and the thickness of the limbs on the bows weren't always the same from bow to bow. So what I did was approximate the thickness and add about 1.25" to it. Then I got 2" fire hose, plugs and an air tip and inflated it to about 60 pounds and that gave me enough pressure to laminate the limbs successfully. That's using Smooth-On EA-40 epoxy though. It's a slick set up for a quick lamination.

[@ComeOnYouBoyzInBlue]

Very easily read and understood video, thanks

[@toysoldier46552]

Wow I never thought about lamination, always took my pieces to a larger shop for the steam method, thanks for sharing Mark, have a happy and safe 4th everyone.

[@Finewoodworkingofsc]

Great information, Marc. Thanks for sharing. On your forms you can also use a center mark across both forms before applying the packing tape to assure they are seated in the correct position when the clamps are applied. I have also made sliding dovetails utilizing plywood cut at 45 degrees to guide the two forms to the correct seating area as the clamps are applied. On a form this size, I would typically use two sliding dovetails. This sliding dovetail method is easier than some would think, but you need to apply wax to the dovetail area each time you utilize the form.

[@geometric5103]

+Fine Woodworking of South Carolina Excellent idea; I never thought of that.

[@AndreaArzensek]

Very good info on bent lamination Marc! Thank you!

[@marksatterfield3100]

Here is a tip. I recently make a bench with 2 arches for legs. The arch legs were 33 laminations of luan door skin. I made my + & - form to the dimensions of the final arch. Obviously it would be nearly impossible to laminiate32 pieces at one time so I would glue up maybe 5 laminations with glue but use the remaining 28 lamination in the form dry. After that dries and hardens I would glue in 5 more laminations and use the remaining 23 dry laminations in the same manner. . Repeat until all laminations are glued up. Worked for me.

[@natestewart8059]

what do you do to get the sides cleaned up? The squeeze out will obviously need to be removed for beautification. I can think of a few methods: sander, planer, band saw, radius the sides. Is there a method you prefer to get your favorite finish?

[@georgecrown684]

have a wet /damp rag handy and as soon as you have clamping pressure and squeeze out wipe off the excess...unless you like scraping grinding and sanding off excess glue...then leave it like he did

[@ozzstars_cars]

this technique is diy friendly, i like it

[@heyimamaker]

Interesting, I have been thinking about making a lamp with a bent laminated arm. This should help out :)

[@joshuaragon6676]

Love this idea! Ive been looking for an alternative to steam bending for bow making. This looks like it could work! Thanks!

[@Daweisstebescheid]

a good woodworker recognized by the fact that he still has all 10 fingers

[@jonnyrox116]

Bent laminations are fine for paint grade but I prefer the look of solid stock without glue lines for "fine" woodwork and stain grade projects. Once you learn the quarks of steam bending you'll realize it makes for a much more professional look in the final product.

[@rockindel1]

awesome video , thanks

[@rb1164]

Great video on bent lamination....thanks

[@barkebaat]

Good video : sound advice & to the point. I also use packing tape to keep the glue from sticking, but additionally I like to give the tape a thin coating of vaseline oil to reduce the 'sticktivity' further. Just a veeery thin coat, mind ! I apply it with a sponge and wipe it off with some paper so there's just a hint of it left. Works a treat :-)

[@bigwoz78]

Great tutorial Marc. Thanks for sharing

[@faridkasrakeya]

Very useful clip!

[@metals2546]

I have to say if there is such a thing as a 'sexy' tutorial on wood this way it. I am not even sure what that means, it just had me captivated. Well done.

[@jackbosher8711]

thanks! this really helped me on my dt exam!

[@filter80808]

Fantastic video. Thank you!

[@sbrunner69]

Great video Marc. Would be interesting to see trimming and finalizing dimensions on that piece.

[@Marceloisrael1]

very nice

[@michaelbowers7703]

Thanks for the advice, I'll try the torsion box idea.

[@angellarreal2172]

damn! this guy got all the equipment and all the tools... that's a lot of money right there!

[@Retroweld]

Nice job Marc. That is a cool process. Douglas

[@Richfilms111]

I wood use epoxy, but I'm a boat guy. keep up the great work!

[@rancaciularu5872]

nice technic, what do you do afterwards to remove all the dry squeezed out glue?

[@mortiseandtenon]

Awesome video as always, Marc!

[@ellendesmet308]

Question: how much more bend does one need to create to compensate for the , euh, “un-bending” the laminated wood will naturally want to do?

[@McGinnsWoodShop]

Great information Mark!

[@MrKirby365]

GET BENT! wood laminated. You are awesome sir

[@trinirossi]

awesome, thanks for the tutorial.. hope to try this technique one day.

[@nobodyuknow2490]

I agree with your explanation of the relative circular geometry of the inner and outer forms for the press... however the method you chose actually only achieves parallel curves because you measured the inner off of the outer and merely adjusted for the thickness of the material being pressed... To achieve an adjusted smaller circle, one would have to start from a common center, and off-set accordingly from that center by the variance in distance from the center making your two curves. At about 3:20 or so, when you butt the two pieces together, it reflects that they are geometrically quite similar, barring variance in the cut as much as anything. If the inner circle was more than an inch smaller in radius, the inner piece would curve away at the outer most parts of the arcs since it's curve would be "steeper" toward either side, and wouldn't butt up neatly since it's radius was accounting for the adjusted thickness difference between the two circle radii. think of it like using a pencil compass to draw two concentric circles, if you drew the second circle merely measuring "off the edge" of one circle, you would ultimately end up with two overlapping circles, similar to a venn diagram. The real way to make them concentric is to of course adjust the pencil compass for a different distance from the common center point.

[@woodwhisperer]

I don't agree with your assertion here. What I'm doing by making a curve based off the existing curve is essentially the same thing as drawing the curve from the same center point, just with a different radius. Let's think about it in the simplest terms possible: a full circle. If I used this technique to go around a giant circle, you have to agree that the end result would be a larger circle, right? It's not physically possible for it to be the same circle. By tracing around the outside edge with a compass set to 1", we'll end up with a new circle that's exactly 2" larger in diameter. So why is this any different when you're doing a small section of that large circle? It's not. And that's all I'm doing is making a larger radius curve that is part of a much larger circle. So why do the curves meet almost perfectly at 3:20 instead of showing some offset? Because we're looking at a very small section. Keep in mind, the actual radius of the circle we're working with here would be measured in feet, not inches. So when we're looking at a tiny part of that circle, a couple inches difference in diameter isn't going to be very visible to the naked eye. In order to see the difference in the curvature, you'd need a much larger chunk of the circle or the difference in diameter would need to be much greater. This does beg the question as to whether it's worth it to go through this extra step since a simple identical curve would probably work just fine in this situation. But woodworkers generally don't stop at "good enough". :)

[@nobodyuknow2490]

Unfortunately, you don't have to "agree" with my assertion for it to be as I had described. When you are to make a concentric shape, the radii are from a common center, but when you trace inwardly from an edge like your curve that is merely going to make a portion of a curve that is "over to one side by X amount", but more or less parallel, not concentric (i.e. reduced in radius/diameter/circumference) proportionally to that distance. If anything it'd be nearly the same measure as the first curve since you don't make a complete circle, but rather just a small portion of one, so it's overall representative curve would be that comparable to the origin curve it was traced relative to. If you were tracing an entire circle, about "an inch" inward, you could follow the outer edge enough to complete a concentric circle, but only doing part of a curve that way, particularly with an outward bend, doesn't work the same. It is "good enough" for the purpose being used, but the principle behind it isn't always going to suffice, and the reason it wouldn't always work as intended is as described, particularly with compound curves.

[@thouse4]

I think your misunderstanding can be clarified at 2:25. The most important thing here is keeping the compass perpendicular to the tangent line at any point on the curve. If you do this Mark's method is valid. If you mistakenly keep the compass in the same orientation, then you would be correct and the curve is simply translated, not modified in any way. Quite often this is the intention in carpentry and is why you see spirit levels on good quality scribing compasses.

[@nobodyuknow2490]

Indeed, at 2:25 you actually make my point... Per your own words and actions in the video, keeping the scribe perpendicular to the edge merely transfers the line over by X span. It's really not a matter that bears argument since you are in cursory agreement, and the commentary on the video is merely reiterating what you were doing/explaining...

[@vtank81]

A well articulated troll is still a troll. I'm going to throw in my two cents here. If you have a complete circle that you are scribing, and both points of your scribe maintain a straight line with the center point of the circle, then you have a concentric circle of a smaller radius. It's that simple.

[@3Godfree]

Great tutorial Marc, thank you.

[@hugocabellosballadares6645]

Maestro felicitaciones excelente trabajo, por favor podrías decirme el plano de la piesa que estas haciendo agradezco tu respuesta saludos desde Trujillo PERÚ

[@HovingtonInstruments]

Great video, Thanks for sharing!

[@earlydawn81]

Thats awesome!

[@seanc3362]

Excellent Video!

[@nafitron]

Very cool!!

[@bobbie318]

Great work, I always appreciate your skills.

[@wickerkicker]

Cool new tats Mark.

[@woodwhisperer]

***** Thanks Joe. A work in progress. :)

[@travisnorris6021]

Great video thanks for sharing

[@halwalsh7614]

Hi great video! How much wood is wasted with the cutting and the planing of the strips?

[@wadesims1027]

How long are the rockers you are working on. I am making a semi-maloof style rocker and I have not yet put rockers on a chair. I have made 9 other sculpted chairs, but not a rocker yet. Thank You

[@Jayboux]

Is it possible to Join multiple lamented pieces together side by side?

[@florenciapilatti9252]

Hola! Do you know how to bend wood on a yoga wheel. I guess you have to overlap the wooden sheets? Sorry my English, it's very bad. Amo estos videos! 🖤

[@bawean3w]

Great video. What type of wood are the strips?

[@bobmcnair7075]

Have you seen the Morgan car company where they do this with the rear wheel arches?

[@pavski]

what kind of stop block do you use on your table?

[@ironwood1621]

Would it be worth putting wax paper on the 8 strips?

[@green_building]

thanks for sharing man.. you're good

[@jmartinez4460]

Awesome video, I would like to see the full rocker build.

[@woodwhisperer]

Justin Martinez Hey Justin. We have the build available in 24 videos over on the Guild site: thewoodwhispererguild.com/product/sculpted-rocker/

[@ofwofw2522]

Woooowww Thank Very informative

[@TheElectrozoid]

Hello; what wood did you use to make this?

[@Richfilms111]

Great video bro

[@thevoidslayer9852]

what clamp did you use?

[@omarbrown44]

how would u clean the edges to flush after removing from mold?

[@michaelbowers7703]

Great video, the cork looks like a good idea. How would you handle wider boards? I am doing an arch that uses 16 inch wide 1/8 plywood with three layers.

[@woodwhisperer]

Michael Bowers I would just build the form higher. You can keep layering plywood or MDF, flush-trimming each layer as you add it to the stack. 16" wide is pretty substantial though so you might need to go with a form that's constructed of ribs instead. So you'd have almost a torsion box style rib structure that provides lots of strength without using tons of material.

[@whitewolf8758]

Hi marc will you have the process in which you will clean up this bent piece you have made? Thanks again

[@woodwhisperer]

whitewolf8758 No. But if we do a bent lamination on a future project, I'll certainly show the entire process from top to bottom.

[@manueladrian6599]

Thank you very much, a subtitle detail in Spanish. Greetings from Spain

[@MichaelFlester]

Very helpful, thank you!

[@bob_frazier]

Cork! I'll be darned. Thanks.

[@tokihossoin7861]

Thanks a lot man really helped me out!

[@BackyardWoodworking]

Good tips Marc have a great 4th.

[@woodwhisperer]

Backyard Woodworking You too!

[@bunnywarren]

When you have a piece like you were holding at the end there, what the best way to remove the dried glue squeeze out?

[@buster11121]

Привет из Тольятти !!!!!!!!!!! Всё чётко !!!!!!!!!

[@humbertoferreira2185]

Muito bom parabéns!

[@aarondcmedia9585]

Brilliant, thank you.

[@ongobo23]

What do call the blended curved joint in the title photo?

[@Wordsnwood]

Hey Marc, any comments on spring-back? Did you allow for that in the form, or do you not see it that much? Do different glues act differently with that?

[@woodwhisperer]

wordsnwood It's something to be concerned about, but it's also very project-specific. Sometimes you can't afford any springback so you cut your laminations thinner. Sometimes the final shape isn't quite that crucial so you roll with what you get. In the case of this rocker, we can tolerate a little springback. And from my experience, the springback is affected more by laminate thickness than glue. But the laminations I've done using the heavy duty glues do seem to have a little less.

[@georgecrown684]

it's species dependent too....I do curved wood handrail for a living and the outer piece of the lamination has the detail on it and is much thicker then a 1/4 inch.....we definitely allow for spring back....but if i told you how much you might want to compete with me so you figure it out for yourself with 200-400 dollars worth of bent rail laminations...oh and did i mention you need to allow for how tight the circle is to so you can stay with in the building code tolerances and still have plumb balusters

[@nitsn_france]

really interesting thank you !

[@mohanlaljagbedaha6168]

Thank you .

[@GhostOfJulesVerne]

With this method there is a lot of stress built up in the wood strips, whereas with steam-bent wood, it naturally assumes its new shape.

[@MikeGusFifteen]

Is your workbench banded in purpleheart?!

[@rfj289]

I saw that giggle when you talked about bending your wood!

[@woodwhisperer]

RFJ doh!

[@errormadef4ultz]

The Wood Whisperer hehe i saw it too. but m8 i would have done it too :D. Nice video as always.

[@vandonjohnson1935]

Ok..I admit I didn't watch all of this before I'm going to ask this question, but the 1 1/4 off set. Is that the thinckness of your piece or pieces to bend or is that the eqation to the 42" Circle? If a quation is involved how do I find out the radius factors of equation? Thank You

[@furthernorthfab]

So what if you wanted to make a more even extreme curve? Would your form have to be exaggerated curve so it would. Bounce back to the correct bend. Like say a stool back?

[@sawdust9898]

Thinner and more laminations and there shouldn't be springback. FWIW, I have had luck with a hybrid approach,: steam the lamination, let them set up and cool in the form, unglued. There is spring back, but then put them back in the form with glue and it holds nicely.

[@1Howdy1]

Most KZbin videos show a brute force method; strong forms and high pressure. I like to dry fit the pieces in the forms for a few days or more - like a week. I'll just tighten the clamps a bit, and then again in a few days. I want the slats to stay on the moist side and daily temperature fluctuations are actually good for the bend. This allows me to take the pieces apart to see how flexible each is and how they nestle. I might notice one tends to twist and warp wrongly, so I just rightly replace. I do this, so the glue and clamp phase is boring - not a gloopy mess of rushing to find more clamps. That's how you get extreme curves that look good and are strong, patience.

[@MattDiresta]

Great inf