Making an 1895 Walking Skirt (Using an 1895 Drafting Method)

For the Everyday Victorian.
FURTHER RESOURCES:
The Keystone Guide to Jacket and Dress Cutting: archive.org/details/keystonej...
Bertha Banner’s Household Sewing with Home Dressmaking: play.google.com/books/reader?...
Fine Times Watches: Alan Cartwright, owner; based in Derbyshire. / finetimeswatches
Brush braid footage courtesy of Olga ( / berolinensis ) as found on the hem of an extant Edwardian skirt in her own collection.
MATERIALS USED:
Wool: Ayazmoon Fabrics, NYC (c. 5 yds)
Tarlatan: Regular weight (c. 6 yds). Takach Press, shop.takachpress.com/Tarlatan...
Pocket cotton: stash cabbage
Hem braid: Burnley & Trowbridge (5 yds) www.burnleyandtrowbridge.com/...
OTHER USEFUL TOOLS:(Please know that these are affiliate links)
-Clear 18-inch ruler: amzn.to/2DIdRrh
-Steel-headed straight pins: amzn.to/2ByJUaQ
-Every size & weight needle you will probably ever need: amzn.to/2Sd76R7
-My most favorite (& stupidly fiddly) #10 sharps, the tiniest needles: amzn.to/2SaZEGf
-Ye Trusty Olde 8” shears (tartan ribbon not included): amzn.to/2DXkUft
-Those wee bird snips that literally everyone seems to have: amzn.to/2zu9vzY
-(But I’ve also just found these that are a unicorn and I am severely tempted; I should not be trusted with Amazon: amzn.to/2KvXGgX)
-French Curve: amzn.to/2RWzWVJ
Want to get started with hand sewing?
🧵
🕯Check out my Skillshare original course, “Hand Sewing Basics: Working Wonders with Fabric, Needle & Thread”. To sign up for a free trial and take the class, visit skl.sh/bernadettebanner1
This channel is made possible through the generous support of Patreon members. To become a patron, visit / bernadettebanner (although videos will remain free for you here regardless).
Beyond KZbin:
IG @bernadettebanner / bernadettebanner
Management contact for business enquiries:
[e-mail]
bernadettebanner.co.uk/
MUSIC CREDITS:
Luminous Rain by Kevin MacLeod is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution license (creativecommons.org/licenses/...)
Source: incompetech.com/music/royalty-...
Artist: incompetech.com/
“The Closing of Summer” by Asher Fulero, KZbin Audio Library
“Dream of the Ancestor” by Asher Fulero, KZbin Audio Library
Additional cinematography by Cathy Hay

[@haxyquinn]

I came for the skirt i stayed for the pockets

[@Liz-di9yg]

The pockets are one of the best parts always

[@YourGrace_06]

Haxy Quinn love me some pockets lol

[@drowsyfloof]

Word

[@Ivy99999]

Those pockets give me life. They're over twice the size of the ones in my favorite skirt/dress. I didn't even realize it had pockets when I first tried it on, but when I tried it on at home I realized it had MASSIVE pockets. Like I can fit a whole water bottle, my phone, gum/lozenges, eye drops, dry mouth spray bottle, and a few lens wipes in ONE pocket! I could actually fit a fair sized book in it too! And you couldn't even tell I had all that in there, well the book you could because of the slight outline, but if I was wearing a petticoat or something to puff out the bottom properly then it wouldn't show. And it didn't even feel like it was weighted down. I literally fit my whole purse and then some into those pockets, and they were half the size of the ones in this skirt! My inner hoarder/prepper/scout is absolutely writhing with joy at these pocketses. 😀😀🙉

[@SacredWaves]

😁💖😁

[@roninelenion4805]

Does anyone else have the urge to rip all the pockets out of their clothes and replace them with Victorian-sized pockets?

[@mackaylacook148]

Yep

[@Bawetta]

Yeah...

[@ellaisplotting]

I thought my swing skirts had big pockets,but those are huge!

[@christinepease890]

yes I use these pockets in all suitable that I make now , I love big pockets ,

[@feralnerd5]

YES omg someone make a tutorial!!!

[@willamoore876]

Bernadette: cuts skirt pattern from gift wrapping paper Also Bernadette: wraps gifts in sewing scraps

[@CloudyCoraYT]

HMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMM

[@sweetea742]

lol

[@EmiDucky]

*The sweet irony*

[@Lu_R]

Everything is conected

[@KeesaRenee]

Gift wrap is thrown away. Patterns are forever! :)

[@annamccormack4101]

I love that ‘pockets cannot be omitted from skirts’ is so severe, don’t mess with Bertha!! She clearly feels strongly about this and I agree

[@angelag5811]

"Walking skirt" So basically, *historical yoga pants*

[@annas.5894]

Love it.

[@moversti92]

But with pockets..

[@mariahhenderson1470]

@@moversti92 *BIG POCKETS*

[@jennhill8708]

Pockets! Love pockets! Who in the Underworld decreed modern dresses & skirts would have no pockets? Gollum couldn't ask a woman his famous question: "What has it got in its pocketses?"

[@jennhill8708]

Fabric is now "cabbage"? It's sweet, but does that refer to all fabric, remnants, or? It's a lovely thing; one might also use it as a pet name for one's spouse. (Here, my darling cabbage, you obviously need a kiss & hug for carrying that heavy load of books to our personal library!)

[@anthonybiancone1121]

I'm a guy, 63 yrs old. Maybe sewed a button or two in my life time. I can't believe I just watched this whole video. Hypnotized, I was......LoL

[@ES-xx2jq]

Men tend to underestimate sewing and tailoring. It's as, or even more complicated and mathematically challenging than any builders project.

[@raraavis7782]

Anthony Biancone I obsessively watch renovation and woodworking videos, even though I live in a 2 room flat in the city and have no use at all for that kind of knowledge 😄 It’s just fun, to watch skilled craftspeople create something beautiful.

[@ZimVader-0017]

@@raraavis7782 LMAO, me too! I love old machine restoration videos too.

[@Bildgesmythe]

Nothing to lol about, she is talented, intelligent, and quite beautiful. It's always fun to see craftsmanship and history. Oh, I'm older than you. Lol

[@alastairmonk6439]

Came across this quite by chance and LOVED it! No great surprise why good seamstresses were so highly valued. Will certainly watch more!

[@MirnaXavierG]

The "Bernadette is a time-traveller" theory: Bertha Banner, one of the Victorian authors she quotes in this (and several) videos, is actually Bernadette, who changed names to fit in with modern society and to take over the world via KZbin and couture

[@solveigh1350]

Or even better, Bertha was an older Bernadette who traveled back in time to live in her favorite eras and basically taught her younger self!

[@theparalumans2064]

Lmao I just wanna watch so bad how she was able to maneuver using KZbin if she really was a time traveller 😂😂😂

[@illiengalene2285]

Or perhaps an ancestor...🤔

[@nicolamoir8839]

@@illiengalene2285 great, great grandmother perhaps!

[@leilajaafari8436]

Someone needs to write a novel where Bernadette is a time traveler and her name during Victorian/Edwardian times is Bertha.

[@mikwolf2236]

"Is anything in a book a hard and fast rule?" Yes, the rule that skirts must have pockets.

[@LynnaeaEmber]

Also dresses and coat. All garments need pockets.

[@vb7794]

"THIS IS A WATCH POCKET I NEED ONE ...... wait I don't have a watch .... I NEED A WATCH" 😂😂😂

[@k1tkat-kate]

Exactly what I would have done

[@kayleehog]

My neighbor has frequent yard sales and I always go over to see what she has. She has a nice pocket watch she selling for $20 and I bought it (for a steam punk outfit I was working on) and then I saw this and now I’m sewing watch pockets into all my skirts so I have an excuse to carry it around. I saw her do this backwards and I could not stop laughing.

[@gorillaau]

And we still have watch pockets in modern Levi's jeans.

[@ianmoseley9910]

Pretty sure you could get a FitBit in there ...

[@vickisnemeth7474]

"I REGRET NOTHING"

[@nannasbraindump6343]

50 points to Ravenclaw for one wonderfully made walking skirt👍

[@nannasbraindump6343]

Wauw! Thank you all for liking my comment☺️

[@Grr-nz7zj]

And 50 points deducted from Slytherin

[@youmebothorneither]

Grr01 30 why? as a slytherin i am offended on behalf of my house.

[@Grr-nz7zj]

Cranemaker ! Bruh because I am gonna reward 200 house points to Slytherin for speaking Parseltoungue.And chocolate frogs. 😎

[@froggdoggs8551]

Grr01 30 or chocolate frogs for that matter

[@HarvestRidgeHomestead]

“The present diagram does not show pockets. We can’t have that.” 😂 Not much upsets me more than buying a piece of clothing and realizing that it has false pockets!

[@sunshinedancer5509]

Totally.

[@bugeyedmonster2]

False pockets are of the Devil!

[@lauranaspeer5008]

Ashley Bailey, I can think of something worse. I once bought a garment that had false pockets that were literally just real pockets sewn shut! And no it wasn't an accident!

[@bugeyedmonster2]

@@lauranaspeer5008 Was the string sewing the pockets shut easily cut or split? Working retail, sometimes pockets are sewn shut to keep people from putting stuff in them. (I kid you not. People are nasty and filthy.) I and other retail workers have helped men open their sewn shut pockets in store. It's usually pretty easy. (Mostly I see this on dress suits and vests. The higher dollar items you don't want ruined by someone's left over lollipop stick.) Now if these were real pockets that they sewed shut, with the idea that they would not need to be used, then that is exceedingly stupid. Whoever had that idea should be stuck with a thousand needles.

[@maike__-]

@@bugeyedmonster2 agree! When we were shopping for a suit for my brother, he was _shook_ that someone would sew real pockets shut, he felt so betrayed it was hilarious. I then told him that most girl's and woman's clothes have fake pockets or no pockets at all. My mom explained that they don't want the suit to loose its shape in the areas around the pockets by someone shoving their whole fists in them out of habit, but the lollipop argument is also a really good reason...

[@BeatingBat]

I've been a bit mad lately because the hem on the sleeves of my coat is fraying and I don't want to buy a new one. You putting ribbon on the hem of your skirt made me realize I can do that for my coat sleeves and put off buying a new one for a few more years. Thank you!

[@TheWitchOfWonderlust]

I am 110% convinced that Bernadette is actually a time traveller(or dare I say, a very successful dabbler in spiritualism) and is bringing back the beauty of Victorian fashion to the modern world all while being amused by our modern time. And I love her.

[@froggdoggs8551]

She is a very powerful witch who has unlocked the secret of time traveling

[@foamandfog3112]

I literally had a dream last night that Bernadette is an ancient goddess who happens to love Victorian fashion

[@PmpknHead]

I personally believe she is a young immortal who started in the nineteenth century

[@victorycoffee92]

@Fulkii How would you know? Its only in the intermediate course for incantations book II.

[@elishevablumenfeld639]

she should have a cameo in doctor who

[@MorganDonner]

DEAD. I AM SO DEAD. This is so wonderfully gorgeous, I love that you showed the comparison at the end, very good visuals on how those differences play out! I am so inspired, I need to up my own everyday historical clothing! I have been wanting to for years, but this just might be the well needed kick in the butt I needed to get started 😍

[@chauvu6579]

Bernadette: Some sewing god is smiling upon me Me, remembering the felling she cut off her combinations in a previous video: I sure hope so

[@Ivy99999]

Lol I've got the opposite. My mother's sewing machine has cursed me. Every time I use it, something breaks, doesn't work properly, mysteriously and strangely malfunctions, destroys my fabric/project. We are beyond baffled because that's literally the machine I learned to machine sew on, and she's the one who taught me, so she uses it the EXACT same way I do, and yet she has none of these problems. 🤔🙄 Frustrating af because it ends up taking me a minimum of over 2-4 times as long as it should to finish projects. Like a 40 min project ends up taking several hours. I'm saving up for a new one, problem's finding the room for it haha. 🤷‍♀️😅

[@ellieeverlasting6188]

I find your way of addressing "mistakes" endearing. You point them out in a no nonsense manner and then move on. Thanks for that wonderful example.

[@TinaSalamander]

Yes! I love the mistakes. It makes her, and sewing, so much more approachable and relatable.

[@sangarora1216]

Loving the all-black ensemble worn for the first pattern-drafting phase.

[@CyborgSlayerNila]

Me toooo!! It's so gorgeous!

[@breadpilled2587]

some serious Marie Curie (Marie Skłodowska) vibes

[@ladylysli7324]

Yes where is the dress from?

[@lexi_barely_lives]

That little bit where she’s laying on the floor on top of the wrapping paper, she looks tiny and adorable XD i love it

[@pauline1809]

@@ladylysli7324 she...made it?????? lol

[@globoboboglob3270]

Would you look at the SIZE of this pocket! What I'm wearing right now has "pockets" that can barely fit a tube of lip balm... sometimes progress seems to go backwards, eh? Beautiful fabric, beautiful skirt, I'm in admiration before the finished project. It's lovely.

[@serentique]

Seems as though they've adapted watch pockets as the norm for our garments these days. I'm tempted just to rip all my pockets out and sew in new ones!

[@TheDeerhunter316]

I took off my dads butt pockets off his old ratty jeans and I'm gonna sew them to the leg of my Jean's like painters pants

[@vb7794]

One day I'm going to rip off every pockets I have on my garments to extend or replace them with those giant victorian pockets !

[@IonIsFalling7217]

I think the shape of garments makes a tremendous difference to where and what sort of pockets can be added. Today most of our clothes are so fitted to our bodies that large pockets make for unseemly lumps when filled. I mean, look at skinny jeans -- you would simply have a shears-shaped tumor on your leg if the skinny jeans were to include those lovely Victorian pockets.

[@vb7794]

@@IonIsFalling7217 don't care as long as I can put lot of stuff in them 🤩 At least regular pockets would be great on women clothes, not those micro non useful things

[@coyowolf4609]

Lil me: why are there no useable pockets on my clothes?! Mom: lol that’s only for boys. And always has been. Lil older: women having and using pockets is mentioned in all these old text, but they only wear skirts and dresses in these same text... How? Where? What witch craft is afoot? When did this stop? This is very helpful info and reference point to research for future projects and more details to further consider for designs on both life and mini scale.

[@im_an_oyster]

The reason women's clothes either have very small pockets or don't have them at all is mostly due to capitalism. Fashion companies wanted to bring purses back into fashion but nobody wanted to buy them bc why would they they have massive pockets? So they made pockets smaller to force women to buy their handbags.

[@tempesttormented]

Earlier in the Renaissance and Baroque periods pockets were separate pieces of clothing and the skirt would have slits in them so one could get to the pockets. It's really fascinating how pockets have developed through history, and I agree that it's ridiculous that women no longer have functional pockets in clothing. Like Bernadette, I add pockets to everything even if the pattern seemingly doesn't accommodate pockets. ;)

[@ragnkja]

“Always has been” is a lie. Luca Costigliolo, whose expertise is referenced several times in this video, has said that he has _never_ seen a Victorian dress or skirt & bodice that doesn’t have at least one good-sized pocket.

[@analuciasoares9585]

Me being a non- enby witch, who needs "all gender styles of clothing" who hiddes the pockets on coats, cloaks and every space room on a skirt: it is a very acient magic, some of you will even say it is dark magic, but none of you notice how much of us are out there

[@LiterarySnob]

When you are doing your padding stitch, you could use a "doll making needle" they are about 5-6 inches long. They allow for longer stitches and they are faster to stitch with. That is my tip for today.

[@buttonsnrubbish]

I have tatting needles that could come in handy for this :p

[@DeborahRosen99]

​@@buttonsnrubbishI couldn't find tatting needles, so I use the aforementioned doll needles to tat with! 😂

[@camelialazar9709]

oh my lord I CAN PICTURE MCGONAGALL WEARING THE SAME WALKING SKIRT WHILST DELICATELY STRUTTING AND PRANCING DOWN THE HALLS OF HOGWARTS EEEEEEE SO THRILLING (I apologise for the excessive amount of capitalised letters :o)

[@seonaelizabethcoster8465]

But this is most definitely - if ever that was a suitable occasion for excitement - an appropriate response to such an image.

[@seonaelizabethcoster8465]

Also, I totally have the same image running through my head, too

[@franceslambert8070]

WHY APOLOGIZE??? I WAS ABLE TO READ IT BETTER!

[@grandcarriage1]

That vision brought me much joy. 10 points to Gryffindor

[@TheAmiraD]

Her wand may not be in her pockets but Prof G is a sensible woman to knows the need for pockets in skirts an dresses.

[@MsNarutosuchti]

Oh lord, the pocket being suspended from the waistband is such a brilliant solution! It always bothered me that a pocket would ruin the shape of my skirts, so I never did them. This information changes so much! Thank you so much!

[@yogawarriorgirl]

Peasants: "Skirts are gendered clothing and signs of opression blah blah blah". Me, an intellectual: "Skirts leave room for i n f i n i t e p o c k e t s."

[@_somuchstardust_]

And even though there are cargo pants, skirts still make it pretty and *hide them*

[@liliumkuronatasa3690]

Yes....cargo pants are ugly.....very ugly At least with a skirt i can easily hide a 10" knife under it

[@rebeccaedkins9987]

I had a friend who made her dress for our school ball and she added pockets. We were all so jealous because she snuck Skittles in in one of the pockets, kept her phone in the other and just used her purse for her entry ticket.

[@candy-coatedrose513]

Yes! I like to make my skirts apron-fronted so I can wear my 1700s pockets with them. Saves fabric so I don't need to make a thousand pockets, and no one can see the imprint of the cargo of your pockets.

[@sarahhavillamelooliveira5825]

@@candy-coatedrose513 I'm considering making pockets + apron front skirts, but wouldn't having a pocket tied be not uncomfortable? It should extend the skirts life though since there would be nothing pulling on it's fabric. I've just watched the tape method. Absolutely wanna try it.

[@ravenpoeacup]

My great great grandfather was a tailor during this time period. Watching your videos gives me a glimpse of what he may have made.

[@oldasyouromens]

I might, actually, have to learn how to sew specifically so I can have GIANT pockets in that style. I have a modern skirt that I thrifted (from the brand 1901) that attaches the pockets in a VERY similar manner with the tape and things, and it's quite odd but they go down to my mid thigh and NOTHING FALLS OUT EVER.

[@morningstar8187]

This is way too good for youtube. You need your own show on tv.

[@beth12svist]

But this way she can do it *her* way, and *that's* what makes it so good.

[@robinbaum1673]

It would be so great!!!

[@beth12svist]

No, seriously, it *wouldn't* be better. It would have to be done on schedule, it would have to fill a certain time slot, and who knows what other limitations and format changes a TV station would come up with. It would cease to be so personally engaging. And all of us non-US viewers would not get to see it. I'm willing to bet we form a good chunk of the viewership here.

[@rukia15chrno]

The internet will kill TV for good, I don't even own a TV and haven't watch in years.

[@wmee7325]

She should be on vogue and every other fashion magazine there is. Extraordinary work. She should be as famous as the top designers of new York

[@destinyannfoxx]

"I won't bore you with the technicalities if you are just here for the pretty pictures" me, whispering: shit my cover is blown. she knows why I'm really here

[@noemiolesiak9311]

my problem is that I was here many times not only for pretty pictures and I still dont know how to make the skirt, im not sure how to cut the pieces...

[@enablingcuriosity]

I was here for the technicalities.

[@naomikatepp]

If you are willing, could you also do a KZbin about the drafting of the pattern please? I’m attempting to do it myself and I have some questions.

[@avarni]

@@noemiolesiak9311 the piece marked 1 is cut on a fold, and 2 and three are definitely cut out twice, but i'm not 100% sure if 4 is cut out once or twice. the instructions are not /at all/ clear!

[@sapphiwoofy9671]

Bernadette: following everything while also doing research Also Bernadette: being very adorkable and excited about a watch pocket

[@impishDullahan]

Sees notif on phone, stares forlornly at final exam project, looks over at yon clock, "I can definitely spare a half hour that'll turn into 3 hours..." Remember this moment when I'm retaking my exam in August.

[@ArthurDent12]

How did you do?

[@froggdoggs8551]

How did it *g o*

[@picassomanu185]

Ah, the Great Victorian booty shake! Having now witnessed it, one can see why it was so effective on gentlemen. But you need another small accessory: What we call in France a "suivez moi jeune homme". Whatsit? A super delicate, extremely frilly little handkerchief a lady always on hand to: Swipe a few tears and show how delicate and sensitive she it (NOT for a real cry, though, and do not even think of blowing your nose: the little thing would literally explode!) More importantly, to have it flutter down when you cross path with an interesting gent you haven't been introduced to, so he will have the opportunity to give it back to you if he's equally interested (think of it as a sort of Victorian Tinder). I have flea marketed quite a few of those, in France and in the UK, so I know it wasn't an exclusive French practice, even if it hasn't got such a forward name in English. And who knows? Maybe Lady Sherlock will cross path with Mr Adler one day!

[@thefrenchtimetravellersgaz2367]

This is so interesting! I'm a French costume student and in my hat-making class, while making XIXth century hats and bonnets, we learned that a "Suivez-Moi Jeune Homme" (or as literally translated by my hats teacher, who is British, a "Follow-Me Young Man") was, in fact, the ribbon - often 2 ribbons actually - hanging from the back of the hat, with no other purpose than aesthetic! I didn't know that this could also be the name of a handkerchief, thank you for this interesting piece of information!

[@picassomanu185]

@@thefrenchtimetravellersgaz2367I think the name covered a few things. Read somewhere (but not remembering where exactly), that it also was the name of a "mouche", pre Revolution era. But I didn't know about the hat thing!

[@raym4064]

"Follow-Me Young Man" is more one-to-one than the translation I googled just now, which literally defined it as a "seductive hat ribbon"

[@nancyfenity9817]

I have several lovely tiny old fashioned "handkerchiefs " which I inherited from my mom. She and her mom made them from very fine cotton lawn material and trimmed them with their exquisite hand crocheted lace. They are so beautiful and I carried one on my wedding day as my "something borrowed". All of these wonderful old treasures that young people find distasteful and disposable are, for me at least, filled with memories of treasured days gone by. I wonder what they will find to treasure from their own youth in future years? Ipads and plastic bags?

[@spacewolfcub]

@@nancyfenity9817 Our legacy will likely be digital. Collections of photography, stories and even novels we self-published online, 3d models and textures, architecture that we drafted, and even custom software we crafted at home. Even sets of videos like this channel can be treasured. Thinking of heirlooms as only physical things is a very limiting way of looking at what is "worthy".

[@fangchick93]

I’m learning to sew, and since I have an extremely limited income I’ll be mostly doing hand stitching until I find an inexpensive sewing machine, and I’m determined that any apron, skirt, dress or nightgown I make will include pockets. The lack of pockets in ladies garments are a travesty and adding pockets to side seams seem extremely easy so this won’t be a step I skip. I like your channel because I like seeing different methods and watching proper hand stitching is very informative. Thanks to you, my first attempt at flat felling a seam turned out very well, almost invisible and the stitches were very small

[@strcd]

I found a refurbished singer machine on their website for under $200 and its been working well for me!

[@gwenmartinsen3979]

You could try Go Fund Me or another similar site. You might be surprised by the response! Good luck.

[@fangchick93]

Gwen Martinsen I got a vintage machine I love. It’s a singer 306k

[@renae00]

Look on Facebook marketplace or EBay! I found one for $20 and would’ve bought it if I hadn’t gotten mine as a present!

[@lillianmead3659]

You can also look for one at yard sales and stuff, I got. 1970s singer for 20 bucks and it’s works beautifully plus a embroidery and button attachment

[@lisamoya2534]

THE POCKET WAIST TAPE SUSPENSION IDEA IS BRILLIANT. I need that in all my modern in seam pockets because they always distort the skirt shape and it bugs the bejeebers out of me. Thank you for sharing this brilliant new sewing knowledge with us!

[@magiv4205]

No wonder pockets are so small nowadays. The art of waist tape suspension has pretty much been lost because it's seen as a time-consuming, unnecessary extra step (where the fashion industry pays by the piece made, which is as predatory as it is detrimental to quality), so to compensate for the simplification in the pattern, the pockets have to become smaller so as to not distort the seams.

[@katipennington]

“It’s fine! We’re making a sewing video!” 😂

[@Chibihugs]

I chuckled greatly at this

[@rossjames271]

You are wonderful. I don’t know if you remember me, but I’ve been following you since day one and so far you haven’t been able to fail in absolutely delighting me when I watch your videos. As a teenage boy living somewhere as close minded as it is, you really inspire me to dress however I want and to not be afraid of what I like and worry about conforming to societal rules on how one should dress or act. Keep inspiring, Bernadette.

[@blowitoutyourcunt7675]

Cheers mate! Follow your dreams and don't let the bastards get you down!

[@maryblaylock6545]

Sweetie, if you can't be true to yourself how can you be true to anyone else?

[@blowitoutyourcunt7675]

@Emily Barclay Etymology of the word simply means woman, to be blatant it's the vertical line that demarcate a woman's genitals, that's all. Men dangle, woman have a line. Patriarchy put some nasty spin on the word is all and as such we've all forgotten it's orginal meaning was NOT an insult but a descriptor. Also the username is a very cheeky way of telling people if they don't like my opinion what they can do with that feeling ;)

[@shoepixie]

Seeing this months later, and it's so lovely to see a young lad inspired by these videos! Be yourself. It might get you some shot but it's absolutely worth it.

[@kailavanderwielen3588]

@1-21 Men's historical fashion changed considerably during the time of Beau Brummell, a very rude man who dictated the most absurd fashion rules. One such "gift" of his was modern standard of men's formal wear (suits) being black, gray, navy blue, brown, and olive. He is also partially responsible for removing tights/hose from men's wardrobe. Unfortunately, we still follow many of his absurd rules today. [A word of caution about non-conformity: we ought to remember that manners and societal norms can be followed for politeness's sake. It would not do to have someone become the next Beau Brummell in the name of non-conformity. Politeness and civility cannot be underrated. :)] More information about Beau Brummell here: www.gentlemansgazette.com/beau-brummell-the-original/ www.regencyhistory.net/2012/11/the-rise-and-fall-of-beau-brummell-1778.html fashion-history.lovetoknow.com/fashion-history-eras/george-beau-brummell

[@minimooster7258]

A year later, I've decided I want to make some history-inspired clothes, and I ended up using the same pattern you did to draft my skirt! I came here to check I had the right pannels cut out, and so far it's going... well not great, but it is going!

[@zoeydillon825]

I’m trying I’m just incredibly confused lol

[@ebunni5862]

Did you ever finish?

[@minimooster7258]

@@ebunni5862 yep, I did!

[@ebunni5862]

@@minimooster7258 that's awesome :)

[@wolveshowling26]

Do you remember the amount of fabric that you needed for the skirt? I'm planning on making some type of walking skirt as soon as I have finished my current project and I have no idea how much fabric I will need to buy for this...

[@DawnOldham]

The excitement in your voice as you found drawings that fully explained the mysterious pocket attachment method was priceless! And you became even more animated when you saw the watch pocket slit! I rewound just so I could hear the sound of a joyful soul again! You really did bring to life these other women who lived so many years ago and to whom you were looking to for advice. Thank you for such a fun video!

[@PaleLady]

Your reaction and excitement at finding the watch pocket was delightful 😄 I just have to say, your videos and the fact you wear what you love with confidence has been a huge encouragement for myself to do the same.

[@lightaflamethrower8573]

I have this idea in my head of the lovely Cathy Hay being Lady Mycroft Holmes. Is this crazy?

[@TheDeerhunter316]

This must be so!

[@kitdubhran2968]

Bernadette Banner 😂😂😂

[@k1tkat-kate]

Bernadette may say Moriarty, but I believe Mycroft to be more fitting for our perspective, as I've seen many people perceive them to be as sisters.......

[@DAYBROK3]

Katie Duncan, mirrors. Moriarty and Holmes are the two sides of one coin.

[@racheltam1458]

I was lucky enough to have a whole array of antique trims handed on to me by someone who recognised she'd inherited something too precious to throw away, but didn't have any use for them herself. Among them, what I now know to be a card full of brush braid! I have never come across that before... thank you for solving the mystery of its purpose!

[@skyaulbach2190]

Ms. Banner's love of her pocket watch gives me life.

[@lezliesmith3354]

i will one day work up the courage to attempt a victorian walking skirt. till then I will watch your tutorials/videos and learn as much as i can

[@vloguidice3932]

It's actually really easy! I just made one a couple months ago using Folkwear's pattern, which is about 1900-1901, and it was one of the smoothest, simplest sewing experiences I've ever had. Definitely try it, and I bet it'll give you the courage to try something more complex!

[@SpiritBear12]

@@vloguidice3932 How were the directions on the Folkwear pattern? Are they vague and confusing, or are they well written and straight forward and easy to understand? Sometimes modern McCalls and Vogue instructions are difficult to understand what they mean.

[@Ragin7Cajun]

I made an altered version of this pattern for my sister as practice for making a cassock. There are a handful of free patterns online that a google search will turn up. They might be more simple than this one. www.tudorlinks.com/treasury/articles/w1895skirt.html Take your time and accept that mistakes will be made. I know mine didn't come out perfect, but that's part of the process. You can't make an omelette without breaking a few eggs.

[@petradegroot3578]

Lezlie Smith idem dito😅👍🏼

[@talosheeg]

I agree with the below, the Folkwear pattern is really easy and comes in a big range of sizes!

[@mariansmith7694]

Yes, the waist tape on pocket IS NECESSARY. I was listening to you whilest in process and envisioned this pocket replacing a ladies purse and it might contain weight which could make the tape help quite a lot. So fun to watch this process.

[@glass_pheonix2095]

I loved her excitement when she found the watch pocket! It was so pure and happy

[@beatrizalves985]

12:30 Her excitement over the watch pocket has just restored my will to live.

[@louisacapell]

I imagine that women from the 19th century are watching this, sometimes. And I wonder what they're thinking about our interpretations.

[@TheCrazyGamerLady]

Louisa Capell I hope you mean the early 20th century. The 19th century is the 1800s. 😊

[@louisacapell]

@@TheCrazyGamerLady I guess I phrased that wrong. I do mean 19th century. I imagine IF they were watching what they'd think.

[@TheCrazyGamerLady]

Louisa Capell I’m sure they would be very impressed at the technology and wondering why she is so excited about pockets lol.

[@heroandflor]

I would like you to know that it is entirely your fault, that I purchased an antique hand-cranked sewing machine... I love all your sewing projects

[@jaythecraftymaniac6056]

You’ll never go back. I use my machine, Mavis, more than my electric machine.

[@auntylinda7640]

They have such a beautiful sound xxx

[@lavenderwitch3502]

Oh my word I want one of these skirts so badly. It looks utterly gorgeous. I don't have the patience to sew one, so I will simply have to enjoy spotting yours in your videos.

[@katehayford5086]

As someone who has historically been a terrible seamstress and didn’t care that my stitching was terrible, and who is now really putting effort into caring more about my sewing, I puzzled over these pockets in a circle skirt that I am making. My pocket fabric is a somewhat hefty muslin, and I felt like the pockets would sit at a weird angle and be bulky, and they didn’t seem like I would be able to utilize all of that glorious space, so I figured out the tri-fold thing (mentioned around 14:38). With this method, the pockets hang down more vertically, lay flatter against the skirt, and the twill tape holds the pocket more vertically. Once you get the side seam of the pocket sewn, open it so that that seam runs down the middle, and then stitch the bottom. Highly recommend!

[@atelieralumine]

Great explanation, thanks! It does indeed seem like it would lay more flat than in the video

[@estelledesigns]

You must've used some sort of witch magic to get pattern matching to work out perfectly like that! 😉Loved the cute little clips of you and Cathy at the end too. Both of your skirts look very beautiful!

[@robinbaum1673]

I absolutely love your careful interlinings and tarlengton and bottem bit on the skirt. Yours looks like every photo and picture i have seen as to how the skirts hang and act/perform!! Such a beauty and a wonder to someone always wondered how they got that way!!! Thank you thank yoi thank you for a long lasting question

[@nancyfenity9817]

Alicia Estelle it's actually a skill I learned many years ago in high school Home Ec known as pattern matching when laying out pattern pieces. I achieved perfectly matched seams on a two piece suit I made from authentic woolen Blackwatch plaid; it is used by tailors to construct perfectly matched men's suiting of various plaid fabrics. Requires a lot of patience, but is easily doable. Unfortunately, rarely used these days in the ready to wear industry because it "wastes" fabric yardage and makes garment production more costly. Only widely used in the production of custom garments by tailors who are proud of their work.

[@elisaroduite8775]

'"Pockets cannot be omitted from the making and cutting of skirts' a woman of very sensible thinking." OMG indeed haha

[@willynthepoorboys2]

I love how excited she gets when she has an epiphany and suddenly it all comes into focus for her.

[@TheItsybitsy89]

That waist tape to suspend the picket is freaking ingenious and I love it so much

[@GDMiller419]

Thank you! I am now the proud owner of Bertha Banner's book! I haven't started sewing, but I follow your videos and a few modern folks, and hope to begin soon! I appreciate you so much!

[@alltherest]

This is my first ever comment on KZbin but have been delighted by your videos amd I have a tip regarding suppliers of brush braid. My husband is a vicar and when his cassock hem started to wear out I remembered brush braid from Victorian skirts but could not find a source...until I searched for Cassock Braid! It only comes in black and red but is exactly the same stuff. Upholstery brush braid trims are generally much wider and thicker than the ones used on garments. I've been making increasingly elaborate victorian costumes for my friend over the last year - a lot of experimenting as I am a self taught seamster and still quite a novice but your videos are inspiring! I'm planning on making an outfit based on a portrait of the woman who built the church, almshouses and vicarage I currently live in for a 150th anniversary garden party next year!

[@blowitoutyourcunt7675]

LOL, I use a lot of furniture trim for my renaissance costumes, it's even better when it's on the clearance rack ;)

[@raraavis7782]

Paul Bourne That sounds like an amazing project. I always wish, old houses would have a kind of diary, that tells the story of its inhabitants 🙂

[@QueenVictoriaRose]

Would you post a link for your cassock braid. My Google search has not been successful. Thanks.

[@alltherest]

@@QueenVictoriaRose fmchurchsupplies.com/products/cassock-brush

[@alltherest]

@@QueenVictoriaRose Ormsby and Ars Sacra also sell it - they are all European companies but hopefully they help!

[@amylynn3252]

After watching several of your videos and also watching costuming drama as well, I’ve purchased wool and a truly Victorian pattern to make my own walking skirt. I no longer have a sewing machine so I’ll be working entirely by hand. Thank you ladies for giving me inspiration

[@IfYouSeekAmy.]

How did the handmade walking skirt go?

[@jasminewebster5168]

This is what i do when i am bored and want something nice and relaxing to watch late at night: i come and rewatch lovely Bernadette Banner videos

[@legendarymudkip2096]

not very historical, but you've inspired me, of sorts, to take up a project of hand sewing; today i made a kick toy for my cat. while it may be small, i'm proud that i took to it to try something new. and who knows, i might make something larger stitched by hand! :)

[@silvergypsylady]

This was so enjoyable. I have a walking skirt pattern by Folkwear Patterns (I think), and the one thing I've never liked about it was no pockets. I definitely need to find it and use this to put in pocketing. I love the Victorian era of 1878-1900. Thank you for these insightful videos.

[@vloguidice3932]

I just made that pattern, the seams are in the wrong place to add pockets the usual way. Definitely make a mockup, I had issues with the way the waist hung, especially around the closure. Good luck!!

[@talosheeg]

I found the pattern good, but I do agree about the pockets. I used her video to add pockets, but it still hangs low. I use safety pins to help it out until I have time to fix it

[@auliamadina5587]

i am writing my undergraduate thesis and i came here on this channel once every few hours because the videos are comforting and pleasant

[@YourGrace_06]

I love French seams. That’s the first seam I ever learned to do n it’s lovely. I noticed it a lot in high end designer clothes

[@TheQueerTailor]

I just recently found an amazing cutting manual from 1907 in Yiddish!

[@blowitoutyourcunt7675]

I inherited from my great-grandmother historical sewing books in Polish some dating from the 1880s to the 1930s, apparently as a toddler I spoke Polish but going to school robbed it from me but I still kept those books! if nothing else the patterns are useful and with the internet I can throw anything into Google Translate to help me out! And to be honest in the last decade I've been far more enthralled with her vintage/antique crochet and knitting pattern books but apparently I shall soon return to the historical sewing pattern books! Wish me luck!

[@maryblaylock6545]

@@blowitoutyourcunt7675 I 'm glad that you have that part of your heritage left to you! Why not learn some Polish?

[@deannastevens1217]

HOLYWOW! check into that and look to museums first. then others... You are blessed... then Please bless us crazy sewers with what you want to share of the bounty

[@robertlozyniak3661]

Did the Yiddish cutting manual use inches or metric, or what?

[@TheQueerTailor]

Robert Lozyniak inches! Or “אינטשעס״. The book was published in the Lower East Side and it has a large number of words that are essentially transliterations of English words. It’s very emblematic of a community that is mainly new immigrants who are beginning to get some English skills, mainly technical ones, but more every day words as well. For example the measurements are given for היפּס (hips) which is an English transliteration, but are given for ברוסט (chest/breasts) using the Yiddish word

[@warriormaiden9829]

A little odd-ball, but I like to use painter's plastic for pattern drafting. It's long and wide enough to do almost anything, can be chopped up to work with smaller pieces, comes in multiple thicknesses, doesn't try to roll up on you, and is decently cheap. Thought I'd toss that out there. :)

[@darciee.7337]

Hmm... you may have just saved me some money since I already have this... thanks for the tip.

[@warriormaiden9829]

@@darciee.7337 Glad to help! It's an old trick I picked up from my grandma. Can't tell you *how* many patterns it's saved me, especially when you have to do multiples of the same blouse in 5 different sizes. XD

[@warriormaiden9829]

@Chaos Burrito To each their own. :) The plastic I use is thick enough that I don't have to worry about splitting or ripping, and because it's plastic, it can get wet without destroying the pattern. One of the houses I lived in took some water damage. Lost all of my paper patterns, but the ones I'd traced off were fine. :)

[@warriormaiden9829]

@Chaos Burrito Conversely, I could ask you the same about the loss of trees to produce the paper you use each time the pattern gets damaged. As I said, to each their own.

[@aishamay739]

Bernadette sounds so excited when talking about pockets, it’s so adorable 😊. I mean I put pockets in every clothing I make

[@seamlyshenanigans861]

Victorians ain’t got time for that... I seriously believe this is the best thing I have heard in ages!

[@aerolb]

Another great educational video! The reminder of the importance of mockups and pockets was nice!

[@rebeccac5021]

I love the idea of the pockets being supported from the waistband! It's so practical, the problem I have with skirts and pockets is they can 'warp' the line of the skirt. this would certainly prevent that

[@jenniferwoodard6146]

I was thinking the same thing! Having a pocket that large attached to the side of the skirt at the opening and at the waistband would distribute the weight of what you are carrying in the pocket better, without altering the way the skirt hangs. It's genius, really.

[@gingerlancaster3033]

Watching u do this takes away all the anxiety of reading and trying to interpret, printed instructions. The pocket tape makes perfect sense. I can "feel", in my mind, the difference, with and without. Thank u

[@kynahjai]

aahhh these little journeys are so therapeutic

[@nicolep8994]

I saw the watches and I gasped. I've never seen such beautiful watches, much more beautiful than modern watches.

[@ashleymainmakes]

Its very interesting how much things don't change. I was working with a pattern from 1954 and it actually calls for a similar version of "stiffening" or non-iron interfacing used on all the panels of the skirt, and optional horse hair braid at the hem. They are only 60 years apart, but you dont really connect the eras. Apparently once you have a good method you stick to it for the most part.

[@donnaparker3417]

Before reading the comments, I had come to my own personal conclusion that there are indeed,some people that have come from another time.Bernadette is one of them. Such stunning creativity and talent. 😍

[@lolaslovesterl]

Your enthusiasm is so adorable

[@ClaireRousseau]

The bit about the tape hanging from the waist absolutely made sense! I'm really looking forward to seeing your video on pockets specifically - I don't make historical garments but adding pockets to modern clothes that fail to have them is a very useful skill to learn!!

[@anaelseiyoku]

the sound of the sewing machine brings me back to my childhood, my grandfather used 1900 heavy sewing machine. This video makes ma also want to sew my own walking skirt! It look amazing! Great work!

[@mxmstrbl]

that first watch is everything. glad you found a vintage watch. the skirt turned out well.

[@kauemoura]

It's just so fascinating to see people crafting stuff, especially when they're passionate about what they do.

[@elisabetfinlayson8539]

She has risen! (May the era of walking skirts return). (I’ve been trying to sew several buttons holes and am constantly being stabbed by pins, so I apologise for my melodramatic tendencies..... and yes, I use wrapping paper to map out my patterns too.)

[@stacyjanine6241]

OMG you went and bought a watch for the pocket! You are my spirit animal.

[@lara-xc4hd]

these videos are very relaxing to watch and listen to, most times i do so while crocheting and it’s just the thing i need

[@maddiek963]

I look forward to your videos every week! Can’t wait to see Lady Sherlock in all her finished glory! ♥️

[@louiselill1528]

Me too so exciting

[@pennytennermann1904]

You make me want to sew my own skirt despite the fact that I haven’t worn a dress in 15 years and it would fill no need in my lifestyle.

[@mmegraham]

You and Cathy shaking your bustles is fantastic! This video is truly enjoyable. Thank you, B!

[@merakimanis530]

Incredible craftsmanship! Your peices are beautiful

[@Gandellion]

Okay but could you make an umbrella skirt because VOLUME

[@franziska9260]

*MAXIMUM FLOOFAGE*

[@mysss29]

*_ULTIMATE SPINNY_*

[@khaxjc1]

Clara I-M indeed.

[@cassualtea2040]

MASSIVE POCKETS

[@froggdoggs8551]

*_V O L U M E_*

[@charitylloyd986]

Miss Banner, you are supreme.

[@ecologicaladam7262]

Nice to see someone else who enjoys sewing by hand! 👍

[@christabeljoy2443]

I made this same skirt but just below the knee length! (I’m actually wearing it right now 😂) it was so fun and I can’t wait to make a full length version for more historically accurate wardrobe endeavors!

[@amberlacy6018]

Question for you when you were drafting the skirt. If you drafted it from keystone's guide. The point between O and B is the full length of your waist right?

[@christabeljoy2443]

awall 0409 yes, in the keystone guide it says that O to B is 24 inches (which is the waist measurement he used) but since my waist is not that small, and I won’t be wearing a corset with it I had to do some conjecturing and use my own waist measurement :) I hope that helps! This skirt is so fun to make!

[@cocoq3323]

@@christabeljoy2443 how did you cut the pieces? If you only cut one of each, then the skirt won’t be symmetrical, but cutting everything double seems too much!

[@stutid582]

Those skirts look absolutely gorgeous! I adore victorian/historical fashion but don't have the skills, finances or patience to actually make myself a victorian outfit XD but great video and love ur work as usual

[@lyndaevans1132]

Oh! Bernadette! Your timing is just perfect! I have many yards of beautiful quilting cotton to iron after washing it, and you are great company for that activity!!!! Thanks! Hope you're having a fabulous time in the UK.

[@kelliemurphy1454]

Beautifully and expertly made. It's a joy to watch someone put in so much care and attention into a garment. Well done you.

[@lydiaderhake2532]

So glad I rewatched this video. I'm in early stages of a late victorian walking skirt and have been pondering a pocket and how to attach it to the waistband for this very reason! Thank you for being a valuable resource months and years after you post these!

[@marlaparraguirre277]

I'm supposed to be asleep, but Ma'am Banner has posted a video and I simply could not help myself but watch this whole thing. Bernadette, you were the last push I needed to actually start sewing and not be afraid of having to hand sew. It's a skill that is just as impressive, if not more so, as being sewing machine savvy. Thank you for creating your content!!

[@robinbaum1673]

Yes.im down with a virus and strugling to keep my eyes open.i know i could come back later but to me this is just as exciting as the much awaited Avengers movies for every one else!

[@evelyn_r]

Lol when I saw the images of the pocket, I immediately assumed that the long side of the non pear shape attaches to the sides of the skirt. Shows how wrong I was so wrong as the shorter side is attached and the longer side is attached to the waistband. I love how you cross check your information. I also love your excitement! Pockets are awesome! 😂💖👍

[@EmelieWaldken]

LOVED this video !! So full of interesting details and processes - and hearing you getting all crazy about pockets is really nice !

[@bowerbirdstyle7661]

I learned to sew on my grandmother's treadle Singer machine. I loved it. Wish I still had it. So beautifully made and solid - made to last.

[@boredgrass]

This first shot with the luggage cart, it is again this young woman from the past, stepping out of the frame on the wall, proudly presenting her new skirt. Since You clearly put a lot of composition into these shots, why not making merge from it? I think along framed prints and calendars. I would definitely buy! Love Your work!

[@jacquiscottagelife7746]

Great location for you and Cathy to be showing off your beautiful skirts :)

[@jeriglynn9725]

Your excitement makes me happy! Thank you!

[@breadpilled2587]

this channel is where I come to relax. her voice is so soothing and the process is relaxing but interesting.